Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:07 AM - Fuel & Oil Hoses (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
2. 02:44 AM - Re: Re: Putting Air In Tires... ()
3. 03:07 AM - Re: Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Danny Lawhon)
4. 04:26 AM - Re: Re: Cool new tool (weight & balance database) (Jim Streit)
5. 04:29 AM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (LarryRobertHelming)
6. 06:16 AM - RV8 Seats (Todd Wenzel, MSCD)
7. 06:36 AM - Valve stem caps (Frazier, Vincent A)
8. 06:55 AM - Re: RV-List Counterweighted Crank (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
9. 06:56 AM - Re: Diesel (David E. Nelson)
10. 07:19 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 72 Msgs - 10/25/04 (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
11. 07:32 AM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (Sam Buchanan)
12. 07:32 AM - Diesel calorific value (Christopher Stone)
13. 08:13 AM - Re: RV8 Seats (John)
14. 08:37 AM - Traffic alerter (Donald Mei)
15. 08:37 AM - Re: RV8 seats (Donald Mei)
16. 08:40 AM - Re: Too many lists? (Chris W)
17. 09:00 AM - Re: RV8 Seats (Mickey Coggins)
18. 09:14 AM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (linn walters)
19. 09:19 AM - (Chuck Weyant)
20. 09:30 AM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (HAL KEMPTHORNE)
21. 09:48 AM - Re: Diesel (Skylor Piper)
22. 09:58 AM - Re: (Marty)
23. 10:18 AM - Re: Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Bob 1)
24. 10:51 AM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (Charlie Kuss)
25. 11:14 AM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (VFT@aol.com)
26. 11:33 AM - Electric vs Vac (John Furey)
27. 12:13 PM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
28. 12:22 PM - Re: Re: Putting Air In Tires... (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
29. 12:47 PM - Re: Electric vs Vac (Dan Checkoway)
30. 12:52 PM - Re: Re: RV-List Counterweighted Crank (Wayne Glasser)
31. 01:25 PM - Re: (James H Nelson)
32. 01:25 PM - Re: Electric vs Vac (James H Nelson)
33. 01:37 PM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (van Bladeren, Ron)
34. 01:41 PM - Re: traffic warning scopes (Greg Young)
35. 02:08 PM - Re: Airparks... (Steve Slayden)
36. 03:01 PM - Re:Valve stem caps (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
37. 03:23 PM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
38. 04:30 PM - Re: Too many lists? (Chris W)
39. 04:52 PM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (Jeff Dowling)
40. 04:54 PM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (Doug Gray)
41. 05:07 PM - Re: Electric vs Vac (Ed Holyoke)
42. 05:12 PM - Re: Re: RV8 seats (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
43. 06:24 PM - Re: Electric vs Vac (Chris W)
44. 06:26 PM - Re: Counterweighted Crank (Richard Sipp)
45. 06:43 PM - Re: Counterweighted Crank (Wayne Glasser)
46. 07:01 PM - FW: SkyTec Lightweight Starter (J. R. Dial)
47. 07:37 PM - Unknown part (Ed OConnor)
48. 07:42 PM - Re: Counterweighted Crank (RV6 Flyer)
49. 07:48 PM - Re: Electric vs Vac (Richard E. Tasker)
50. 08:25 PM - Re: Unknown part (Karie Daniel)
51. 09:11 PM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (Paul Besing)
52. 09:32 PM - Re: Counterweighted Crank (Stan Jones)
53. 09:34 PM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (Jerry Springer)
54. 09:37 PM - Wing root fairings (steve zicree)
55. 09:57 PM - Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
List,
I'm trying to decide whether to buy Van's "ready made" fuel and oil hoses or
roll my own from Aeroquip or Earl's Performance products thru Summit Racing.
Looks like some savings there. Any thoughts appreciated from those who've
been there done that...
Jerry Cochran
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> I don't know about using it in aircraft tires, but a product available at
> most stores like Wal-Mart, called SLIME certinly works. It completely
> stopped all the cactus air leaks in my tractor, and farmers swear by the
> stuff. It even sealed an old wheelborrow tire that has leaked after an
hour
> for the past 15 years !
I'll have to keep that in mind for my lawn tractor; but, I wouldn't put any
of that stuff in my aircraft tires. There's a big difference in the spin of
the tire for a tractor and the tire for a RV. I'm not sure how SLIME works;
but, it's going to settle, at some point. When it does, it will cause an
out of balanced tire that may shake the dickens out of the airplane. I had
a friend who put a quick fix in his auto tires and had to replace the ones
he put it in. It threw the tires out of balance so badly that he couldn't
drive the car. The tires on the RV will spin a lot faster at a given speed
than auto tires because they're so much smaller. Even if SLIME moves around
to balance things out, the initial spin is going to be a rude awakening.
If one is really anal about not wanting to check air pressures, go with the
no leak tubes. I find that putting a little air in the tires, from time to
time, to be a non-issue. It's part of being close and personal with my
airplane like checking the oil and gas. It's a time when I can glance
around at other things under the wings that I might normally miss seeing.
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Building wings; fuse ordered)
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Danny Lawhon <dlawhon@yahoo.com>
Also the ground up toilet paper and antifreeze that
its made out of can cause the rims to rust on the
inside of the wheel and cause early failure of the
rims.. :) huge pits on the steel.. happened on my lawn
tractor, tubes sound better idea to me..
--- sears@searnet.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
> > I don't know about using it in aircraft tires, but
> a product available at
> > most stores like Wal-Mart, called SLIME certinly
> works. It completely
> > stopped all the cactus air leaks in my tractor,
> and farmers swear by the
> > stuff. It even sealed an old wheelborrow tire that
> has leaked after an
> hour
> > for the past 15 years !
>
> I'll have to keep that in mind for my lawn tractor;
> but, I wouldn't put any
> of that stuff in my aircraft tires. There's a big
> difference in the spin of
> the tire for a tractor and the tire for a RV. I'm
> not sure how SLIME works;
> but, it's going to settle, at some point. When it
> does, it will cause an
> out of balanced tire that may shake the dickens out
> of the airplane. I had
> a friend who put a quick fix in his auto tires and
> had to replace the ones
> he put it in. It threw the tires out of balance so
> badly that he couldn't
> drive the car. The tires on the RV will spin a lot
> faster at a given speed
> than auto tires because they're so much smaller.
> Even if SLIME moves around
> to balance things out, the initial spin is going to
> be a rude awakening.
>
> If one is really anal about not wanting to check air
> pressures, go with the
> no leak tubes. I find that putting a little air in
> the tires, from time to
> time, to be a non-issue. It's part of being close
> and personal with my
> airplane like checking the oil and gas. It's a time
> when I can glance
> around at other things under the wings that I might
> normally miss seeing.
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317 (Building wings; fuse ordered)
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/chat
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cool new tool (weight & balance database) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Streit <wooody04@bellsouth.net>
Hey Dan, how about adding ECI to your engine catagory also
Jim Streit
90073
Dan Checkoway wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
>
>
>>Howzabout Catto Props? Great gadget! When do the graphic envelopes get
>>implemented? :-)
>>
>>
>
>In there. Thanks. I've added Hamilton Standard, Sterba, Aymar-Demuth, and
>Catto. Any others, just email me offline and I'll get 'em in there asap.
>
>Graphic envelope...coming soon...
>
>do not archive
>)_( Dan
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
It depends I guess on your engine. But, I bought all the hoses in the Vans
FWF kit for my TMX-O-360 which is basically an improved stock O-360-A1A. I
had to shorten most hoses to improve the use of space and make it fit
better. You could consider finding someone in you local EAA that has the
tools and make and test your own. Having them custom made by one of the
standard suppliers is not the cheapest way to get the job done.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
- Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel & Oil Hoses
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>
> List,
>
> I'm trying to decide whether to buy Van's "ready made" fuel and oil hoses
or
> roll my own from Aeroquip or Earl's Performance products thru Summit
Racing.
> Looks like some savings there. Any thoughts appreciated from those who've
> been there done that...
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wenzel, MSCD" <todd.wenzel@wenzel-software.com>
Mickey,
I HAVE -8 seats from Abby as does Gert V. who is also on this list. We were
the first two -8's that Abby made and believe me when I tell you, she did an
incredible job. I would HIGHLY recommend contacting her for your seats. She
did a fantastic custom embroidered "Stars & Bars" design on my seats to go
with the military paint scheme. I'm not flying yet, but when I want to
relax, I crawl up into the -8 and fall asleep in the seats - the only
technical problem I have is how to get the recliner feet-support to swing up
free of the rudder pedals! ;>)
Todd Wenzel
Delafield, WI
RV-8A, Finish Kit
N900TW (reserved)
Let me put in my two cents worth Mickey. I just had Abby do a complete
interior for my recently completed 9A. I can tell you that her work
is as
advertised and attested to by those of us who have bought her
interiors.
Even after all the build up, I was still shocked at the quality and
completeness of her pieces when I opened the box. I've heard great
things
about Becki O. too, but there's more work to do with hers. All of
Abby's
stuff is precut, even the foam for under the floor matting! And it
fits
perfectly! Thanks Abby, you're a pro!
Chuck Weyant N8058V
RV9A --- 30 hours!
> Hi Mickey, Yes, we do make the seats for the RV8, I haven't had a
chance
> to update the website. Let me know if you have any other questions.
> Thank you, Abby
> Flightline Interiors
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: RV8 seats
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
<mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> >
> > Hi,
> >
> > Anyone have some suggestions of people that make
> > RV8 seats and/or covers? I've tried flightline
> > interiors, but they don't seem to make RV8 seats,
> > according to their website. I've got a set of
> > the Jon Johanson seats, but I don't think I'll
> > use those.
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Mickey
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
*********SNIP In addition, I purchased some chromed valve stem caps -
with a hex head,
> from an auto supply store. Then I made a driver by raiding my many
tool
> sets and spot welded a small rod to an extra one that fit the hex
valve
stem
> cap. Works fine for removing and replacing the stem cap - perhaps
> overkill??? SNIP**************
Here's another way to do the same thing: Use your regular cheapo black
plastic valve stem caps. Get a 1" piece of Tygon tubing that will wedge
onto the valve stem cap. The little ribs on the cap will grap inside
the Tygon very nicely. Next get a wood, steel or whatever rod that will
wedge inside the other end of the Tygon. Safety wire or clamp the Tygon
to the rod if needed.
To use, simply remove the hole plug from your wheelpant and stick the
Tygon over the valve cap, wedge and twist. Installation is simply the
reverse. Works very well.
This idea was stolen from John Crabtree who stole it from ????
Vince
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Counterweighted Crank |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
If you are considering the 360 non-counterbalanced angle valve Lycoming with
a CS prop, there is a RPM restriction for continuos operation in the range
between 2000 and 2300 RPM. Sometimes there is an allowance for operation in
the area below a certain manifold pressure. This is a propeller and engine
combination restriction.
MT Propeller has designed a 2 blade aluminum blade CS propeller that does
not have this RPM restriction. It is specifically designed for the Lycoming
360 engine with the non-counterweighted crankshaft and the RV series aircraft.
Additional information for this propeller is on my website at
_www.lessdrag.com/lycomingpropeller.html_
(http://www.lessdrag.com/lycomingpropeller.html)
Jim Ayers
Less Drag Products, Inc.
In a message dated 10/25/2004 11:59:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Time: 11:03:54 AM PST US
From: Kathleen@rv7.us
Subject: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
--> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
What differences or problems should I expect with a non-counterbalanced
angle valve Lycoming with a CS prop? Anybody have experience with this
combo? I am getting very close to my engine choice, but it's these little
things! :-)
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Kevin,
True. I never saw any mention so thought I'd throw that into the pot given
that some builders are very conscious about weight.
Hmmmm, I just noticed an error below - RV-7 tanks are 21 gallons/ea so an extra
40 lbs for fuel....sorry about that.
/\/elson
On Mon, 25 Oct 2004, Kevin Horton wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
>>
>> - Diesel is heavier than 100LL. According to Chevron/Texaco, their diesel is
>> 6.76 lb/gal compared to 5.8 lb/gal for 100LL - ~15% heavier. That's 49lbs of
>> extra weight for full tanks.
>
> But, diesel fuel has more energy per gallon too, so it's like you get
> bigger gas tanks without having to make the mod yourself. And the
> diesel engine burns less weight fuel to make the same amount of
> power. So even if you put the same weight diesel fuel as you would
> get with full tanks of gasoline, you can fly further with diesel
> power than with gasoline.
>
> The higher density is a plus, not a minus. You don't need to fill
> the tanks all the way up if you don't want to.
>
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
time, then break it again.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 72 Msgs - 10/25/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
The RV-8 also uses the flat aluminum sheet and rubber strip at the wing root.
One RV-8 flown with the aluminum sheet, but without the rubber strip, had a
75 mph stall speed. There was also reported to be a tail buffet near the
stall. Adding the rubber strip reduced the stall to a normal speed.
One RV-8 flown without the rubber strip or aluminum sheet had a 100 mph
stall speed.
Neither of these higher stall speeds seem like a good thing to have happen.
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 10/25/2004 11:59:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Time: 09:30:57 AM PST US
From: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Root Fairings for RV4
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
(Stuff Cut) I have been told,
however, that the lack of this intersection fillet has an adverse effect on
low speed handling, though I have never verified this.
I have about 240 hours on my -4 and am very happy with the way it flies at
all speeds. Good luck with yours.
Dean Pichon
Bolton, MA
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jerry2DT@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>
> List,
>
> I'm trying to decide whether to buy Van's "ready made" fuel and oil hoses or
> roll my own from Aeroquip or Earl's Performance products thru Summit Racing.
> Looks like some savings there. Any thoughts appreciated from those who've
> been there done that...
Been there, done that, but not sure I can shed much light on your
excellent question. The hoses on my RV-6 have been in service for over
five years, have not had any problems, and they still look like new. I
fabricated them from Aeroquip fittings and hose purchased from a local
speed shop and the cost was far below that of "real airplane hoses". The
hoses were pressure tested prior to being installed. I also made the
hoses for the remote oil and fuel pressure senders.
However, I am now faced with the question of whether or not, or when, to
replace these hoses. Do I make a preemptive strike and replace them
after five years in service or wait until some sort of issue arises with
them? I don't know. Guess it will depend on when I reach the point that
I am tired of thinking about the old hoses. I have seen cases where
"real airplane hoses" experienced problems so I doubt there are any
perfect hoses....
So, in regards to your question, properly fabricated (make sure you know
how to properly install the fittings and have the hoses tested) Aeroquip
hoses will work just fine and you can save some money while building
hoses that exactly fit your application. Are the Aeroquip hoses the best
way to go? I don't know. This is probably one of those issues like
primer, fixed vs CS, tip-up vs slider, etc, that is surrounded by
swirling opinions but where you ultimately must make a decision based on
your best judgment and comfort level.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Diesel calorific value |
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Energy content of fuels...in BTU per POUND or gallon
AvGas: ~18,800 BTU / pound or 112,500 BTU / gallon
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/fuels/bulletin/aviationfuel/2_at_fuel_perf.shtm#figure2_1
Diesel: ~20,500 BTU / pound or 138,700 BTU / gallon
http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/fuels/bulletin/diesel/L2_5_fs.htm
Either way you slice it diesel has a higher specific energy content then avgas.
In a hypothetical aircraft with all variables equal except fuel, a tank of diesel
fuel will take you farther than an a tank of avgas.
Cheveron has an excellent web site detailing all you could ever want to know about
fuels.
Chris Stone
Newberg, OR
RV-8 Wings... forever
-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Bartrim <haywire@telus.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Diesel
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
...But, while diesel has more energy per volume than gasoline, it has less
energy per weight. So for performance reasons it's not as good, but for
endurance reasons it's better.
I'd love to be able to burn diesel in my rotary engine.
Todd Bartrim
RV9Endurance
13B Turbo Rotary
C-FSTB
http://www3.telus.net/haywire/RV-9/C-FSTB.htm
"The world will always have a place for those that bring hard
work and determination to the things they do."
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: RE: RV-List: Diesel
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
>
>- Diesel is heavier than 100LL. According to Chevron/Texaco, their diesel
is
>6.76 lb/gal compared to 5.8 lb/gal for 100LL - ~15% heavier. That's 49lbs
of
>extra weight for full tanks.
But, diesel fuel has more energy per gallon too, so it's like you get
bigger gas tanks without having to make the mod yourself. And the
diesel engine burns less weight fuel to make the same amount of
power. So even if you put the same weight diesel fuel as you would
get with full tanks of gasoline, you can fly further with diesel
power than with gasoline.
The higher density is a plus, not a minus. You don't need to fill
the tanks all the way up if you don't want to.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John" <n1cxo320@salidaco.com>
I second the idea of checking out Abby Erdmann at Flightline Interiors...my
RV6A Oregon Aero seats that she upholstered are about as perfect as anyone
could make them...absolutely superb work.
John at Salida, CO
----- Original Message -----
From: "Todd Wenzel, MSCD" <todd.wenzel@wenzel-software.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV8 Seats
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wenzel, MSCD"
> <todd.wenzel@wenzel-software.com>
>
> Mickey,
> I HAVE -8 seats from Abby as does Gert V. who is also on this list. We
> were
> the first two -8's that Abby made and believe me when I tell you, she did
> an
> incredible job. I would HIGHLY recommend contacting her for your seats.
> She
> did a fantastic custom embroidered "Stars & Bars" design on my seats to go
> with the military paint scheme. I'm not flying yet, but when I want to
> relax, I crawl up into the -8 and fall asleep in the seats - the only
> technical problem I have is how to get the recliner feet-support to swing
> up
> free of the rudder pedals! ;>)
>
> Todd Wenzel
> Delafield, WI
> RV-8A, Finish Kit
> N900TW (reserved)
>
>
> Let me put in my two cents worth Mickey. I just had Abby do a complete
> interior for my recently completed 9A. I can tell you that her work
> is as
> advertised and attested to by those of us who have bought her
> interiors.
> Even after all the build up, I was still shocked at the quality and
> completeness of her pieces when I opened the box. I've heard great
> things
> about Becki O. too, but there's more work to do with hers. All of
> Abby's
> stuff is precut, even the foam for under the floor matting! And it
> fits
> perfectly! Thanks Abby, you're a pro!
> Chuck Weyant N8058V
> RV9A --- 30 hours!
>
> > Hi Mickey, Yes, we do make the seats for the RV8, I haven't had a
> chance
> > to update the website. Let me know if you have any other
> questions.
> > Thank you, Abby
> > Flightline Interiors
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: RV8 seats
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
> <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> > >
> > > Hi,
> > >
> > > Anyone have some suggestions of people that make
> > > RV8 seats and/or covers? I've tried flightline
> > > interiors, but they don't seem to make RV8 seats,
> > > according to their website. I've got a set of
> > > the Jon Johanson seats, but I don't think I'll
> > > use those.
> > >
> > > Thanks,
> > > Mickey
>
>
>
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
I've flown with one in a couple of planes and found them to be more of a
distraction than they were worth.
In busy (NY) airspace the woman's voice was continually calling "traffic".
But since these devices offer no heading and limited altitude info, it was
allerting constantly.
One flight I did from Bremerton WA to Bridgeport CT was in a plane with a
traffic allerting system. It was more of the same. Such a distraction, I
turned it off.
I'm not anti technology. I also am aware that a good set of eyeballs is
woefully inadequate in busy airspace. Espescially since most mid-airs
involve overtaking aircraft and I have no say in who creams me from behind.
With that said, when I do my IFR panel upgrades, I'll install a single 430
and the garmin Mode S Xponder.
Presently when flying through busy airspace, I get VFR flight following.
Don
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Mick,
I think you are mistaken. I worked with Abby at flightline to develop
templates for my '4 and she continually made references to the '8 seats.
Also, she has photos of '8 seats on her web site. She doesn't identify them
as such, but thats what they are.
Give Abby a call. She is GREAT to work with and puts out a really great
product at a reasonable price.
Best regards,
Don Mei
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Too many lists? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Scott VanArtsdalen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
>I hadn't really paid that much attention to it but now that you mention
>it I don't recall ever seeing any results from the Yahoo Groups. Hmmm,
>let's try to figure out why that would be...
>
Why that is is simple, to view some yahoo group message archives you
have to be a member of the group, google doesn't crawl the web and
create a user account for every online group. I'm not even sure it
could if it wanted to. With out doing that it can't view the archives
of those groups where the archive isn't public. However I know some of
the Yahoo rv lists have public archives. I did a search for "RV-7
makes sense or lower price" which I knew was on a yahoo group because I
just looked and google found the site. But it only seems to find stuff
due to what is in the subject of the message. That could be because of
the robots.txt files settings Yahoo has setup.
Chris W
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
http://thewishzone.com
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi John,
Thanks for your note. I've gotten *a lot* of similar feedback.
What would be great is to see some pictures! :-)
Best regards,
Mickey
>I second the idea of checking out Abby Erdmann at Flightline Interiors...my
>RV6A Oregon Aero seats that she upholstered are about as perfect as anyone
>could make them...absolutely superb work.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>Jerry2DT@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>>
>>
>>List,
>>
>>I'm trying to decide whether to buy Van's "ready made" fuel and oil hoses or
>>roll my own from Aeroquip or Earl's Performance products thru Summit Racing.
>>Looks like some savings there. Any thoughts appreciated from those who've
>>been there done that...
>>
>>
>
>
>Been there, done that, but not sure I can shed much light on your
>excellent question. The hoses on my RV-6 have been in service for over
>five years, have not had any problems, and they still look like new. I
>fabricated them from Aeroquip fittings and hose purchased from a local
>speed shop and the cost was far below that of "real airplane hoses". The
>hoses were pressure tested prior to being installed. I also made the
>hoses for the remote oil and fuel pressure senders.
>
>However, I am now faced with the question of whether or not, or when, to
>replace these hoses. Do I make a preemptive strike and replace them
>after five years in service
>
That's the recommended replacement interval.
> or wait until some sort of issue arises with
>them?
>
OOOh! Can we spell 'emergency'??? Well, with rubber-lined hoses, the
liner gets brittle and when we move the hose (sometime down the road)
during maintenance etc. the liner cracks, comes loose, and can block
oil passages and other necessary items. I don't think the teflon-lined
hoses are as susceptable to the cracking/flaking off, but I'd rather not
be the one to find out. Hose is cheap and the aeroquip fittings are
reuseable. Buy the mandrels and do the job right (Aircraft Spruce
catalog has a great page on making hoses with aeroquip fittings) or if
you're really in a bind, use the shank of a twist drill in place of the
mandrel. You have to screw a straight fitting into the nut if you use
the drill bit method. You must use one or the other to prevent the
fitting from cutting into the liner and creating the problems above.
> I don't know. Guess it will depend on when I reach the point that
>I am tired of thinking about the old hoses.
>
Hopefully that's before you eexperience an off-field landing. I've had
two, but neither caused by hoses ..... so far!
> I have seen cases where
>"real airplane hoses" experienced problems so I doubt there are any
>perfect hoses....
>
I guess that's why they recommend replacing every 5 years.
>So, in regards to your question, properly fabricated (make sure you know
>how to properly install the fittings and have the hoses tested) Aeroquip
>hoses will work just fine and you can save some money while building
>hoses that exactly fit your application.
>
Absolutely! Great advice!
> Are the Aeroquip hoses the best
>way to go? I don't know. This is probably one of those issues like
>primer, fixed vs CS, tip-up vs slider, etc, that is surrounded by
>swirling opinions but where you ultimately must make a decision based on
>your best judgment and comfort level.
>
I like the Aeroquip hoses (make 'em myself with the mandrels) because I
can reuse the fittings, and myhoses are all the right length.
Linn
>
>Sam Buchanan
>http://thervjournal.com
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
I received two responses, thanks Fred Stucklen and Jim Sears. Maybe I don't need
cooling... But, I installed used stuff that's not the most modern. Here it
is: Collins 250 series nav/com w/ glide slope, kx155 nav/com, king audio panel
(new), Narco transponder (old). I'm thinking the Collins generate most of the
heat so I put them above the KX155 in the stack. Since I started flying, the
Collins com quite working at 5 hours. The receiver on the King KX155 stopped
working on the last flight at 30 hours. Excessive heat? What does everyone
think?
And oh, does anyone have a good used Collins 250 (or maybe its a 350, I can't remember
for sure) series com they'd sell cheap?
Chuck Weyant
Santa Maria, CA
RV9A 30hours
Subject: Re: RV-List: Avionics cooling
> Chuck,
>
> I've done this successfully, but there are some constraints.
> First, be sure NOT to use Van's corrugated 1" tubing. It whistles when air
> goes through it, and that will drive you nuts whiles flying. Ask me how I
> know..... 1" Scat tubing works much better....
> Second, you need to have some sort of water separation device in the air
> supply. If you don't, you will get water into your radios when flying
> through rain. I've successfully used a water bottle, with the cap facing
> downward so it can be drained. 1" hose was inserted through the sides and
> held in place with proseal.
> Third, the air pickup point I used was just inside the NACA vent high on
> the 2" tubing running up to the air vent. You need a high pickup point - the
> top of the tube - to further eliminate the possibility of getting water into
> the system.... Some will still get in, mainly particulates in the air
> supply, so you still need the water separator....
> Hope that helps.....
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A #2 N926RV
> 300 Hrs in 14 months.....
>
>
> Has anyone out there used a blast tube from the naca fresh air vents to cool
> their avionics stack? What's the good and the bad --- from experience
> please, not conjecture. I've installed a small fan from a computer and
> directed it at the radio stack but I don't think it's doing the job of
> cooling, especially when I've got the heater vent on. I've checked the
> archives and found seven listings, none which answer my question. Chuck
> Weyant RV9A --- 32 hours and loving it!!!
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: HAL KEMPTHORNE <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Hi all,
I put Aeroquip hoses in my RV6a with O-360. I got the Aeroquip made lifetime teflon
hoses with built in molded firesleeve. They look very neat and should surely
last my remaining lifetime if not that of the aircraft. I got both oil
hoses and one fuel hose. The downside is that they cost about $80 each!
Hoses are a weak link in any system in my rather experienced opinion. I've had
hoses fail on my cars, on customer's cars when I had my MG dealership and I've
seen many failures in my experience in the forest products industry. I have
had two incidents of brake hose failures on my cars. Radiator hoses really ought
to be changed at least every five years. Often, logging machinery would
be down while someone ran to town for a hydraulic hose. So, I went for the best
which I don't often do.
Hal Kempthorne
RV6a
K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
I would be pretty wary of Diamond's "marketing" claims
of their performance with the Twinstar when they took
it back to Europe. I've seen the claim too, but I've
noticed that they stated performance in ground speed,
not air speed, and they never specified the wind
conditions. I bet they had a heck of a tail wind!
I do believe this plane is very efficient, but just
beware of marketing claims designed to spark interest
in a product, especially when all of the facts aren't
given.
Skylor
--- Scott Jackson <jayeandscott@telus.net> wrote:
> Apparently the TwinStar, on the way back to Europe,
> had its diesels dialled
> back to less than 3 gallons-an-hour each, still
> putting out respectable
> power and cruising speed.
__________________________________
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" <martorious@earthlink.net>
Chuck,
Do you have pics of the water separator/water bottle setup?
Marty
> Chuck,
>
> I've done this successfully, but there are some constraints.
> First, be sure NOT to use Van's corrugated 1" tubing. It whistles when
air
> goes through it, and that will drive you nuts whiles flying. Ask me how I
> know..... 1" Scat tubing works much better....
> Second, you need to have some sort of water separation device in the air
> supply. If you don't, you will get water into your radios when flying
> through rain. I've successfully used a water bottle, with the cap facing
> downward so it can be drained. 1" hose was inserted through the sides and
> held in place with proseal.
> Third, the air pickup point I used was just inside the NACA vent high on
> the 2" tubing running up to the air vent. You need a high pickup point -
the
> top of the tube - to further eliminate the possibility of getting water
into
> the system.... Some will still get in, mainly particulates in the air
> supply, so you still need the water separator....
> Hope that helps.....
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a@comcast.net>
> I haven't tried this yet, but guys at my airport suggested using that tire
> stop leak that comes in a spray can. Supposed to make aircraft tubes stop
> leaking down so fast. Might work!
>
> Richard Scott
> 9A Emp
Spray can goop works as advertized for TUBELESS tires, AFAIK.
SLIME Tire Sealant states on the front of the container...
*** for TUBLESS tires ***
Bob - good luck sealing tubes, balancing, etcetera.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Hal,
Is there any sort of weight savings using these hoses with the "built in"
fire sleeve?
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: HAL KEMPTHORNE <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
>
>
>Hi all,
>
>I put Aeroquip hoses in my RV6a with O-360. I got the Aeroquip made
>lifetime teflon hoses with built in molded firesleeve. They look very
>neat and should surely last my remaining lifetime if not that of the
>aircraft. I got both oil hoses and one fuel hose. The downside is that
>they cost about $80 each!
>
>Hoses are a weak link in any system in my rather experienced
>opinion. I've had hoses fail on my cars, on customer's cars when I had my
>MG dealership and I've seen many failures in my experience in the forest
>products industry. I have had two incidents of brake hose failures on my
>cars. Radiator hoses really ought to be changed at least every five
>years. Often, logging machinery would be down while someone ran to town
>for a hydraulic hose. So, I went for the best which I don't often do.
>
>Hal Kempthorne
>
>RV6a
>
>
>K. H. (Hal) Kempthorne
>RV6-a N7HK - Three trips to OSH now.
>PRB (El Paso de Robles, CA)
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: VFT@aol.com
I talked to the Aeroquip rep at Sun-N-fun and was told the Teflon hose does not
have an unlimited service life only an unlimited shelf life. He recommended 5
years replacement firewall forward and 7 years max in service.
--
Danny Melnik
F1 #25
Melbourne (FL) Rocket Factory
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
With many now going total electric and looking for a back up. Has anyone
tried using a vacume attitude indicator driven only by the intake manifold
vacume such as the stand by systems when a pump fails. I guess the only
savings would be the pump. Any thoughts??
John RV6A
Removing Vac Sys for Dynon
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Jerry,
I made up the hoses for my firewall mounted oil cooler using parts from Vans.
One of the original hoses would have worked, but I messed it up trying to
shorten it and reuse the fitting. These fittings are not reusable. It is
almost impossible to get the rubber out of the fitting after you take the fitting
apart. Ask Vans for the instruction sheet when you order the fittings. If you
are careful you can make your own with a high degree of confidence that
they're right.
As for testing the hoses after fabrication, here is what I did. I modified a
bottle jack by drilling and tapping for a 1/4 inch pipe thread in the base of
it. I took the jack apart to do this, so it is not a trivial job, but
certainly doable. I capped off the hose, and filled the jack and hose with motor
oil. Also had a 1000 psi gauge teed into the system. Had to block the jack so
the piston wouldn't extend. Took each hose up to 1000 psi for about a half
hour and looked for leaks. Had none, and haven't had any on the airplane
either.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Has flown great since -- well, right out of the box. Got a 2nd
opinion from an experienced RVer to be sure I wasn't deluding myself! 61 hours
now.)
In a message dated 10/26/04 2:08:51 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Jerry2DT@aol.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>
> List,
>
> I'm trying to decide whether to buy Van's "ready made" fuel and oil hoses
> or
> roll my own from Aeroquip or Earl's Performance products thru Summit Racing.
>
> Looks like some savings there. Any thoughts appreciated from those who've
> been there done that...
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Putting Air In Tires... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
I posted earlier that the extension should be about 3 inches. That's not
long enough.
Just went to my local NAPA store and got their part no. 90-314 which is a 4
7/16 inch chrome plated brass extension for truck and bus use. This cost
about $11, but it is a real beauty, made in Italy. The ID on the extension says
Schrader 4820. It will fit through a 7/16 inch hole.
I know this horse is getting flogged to death, but thought this information
may be worthwhile.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Electric vs Vac |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> With many now going total electric and looking for a back up. Has anyone
> tried using a vacume attitude indicator driven only by the intake manifold
> vacume such as the stand by systems when a pump fails. I guess the only
> savings would be the pump. Any thoughts??
Some people don't realize that standby vacuum systems are not intended as
"fully functioning" sources of vacuum. It's an unregulated source of vacuum
that develops its strength only by virtue of a difference between manifold &
ambient pressures. You need to adjust the throttle to maintain a steady
4-5" of delta. This can be problematic if you're up at altitude running
full throttle -- you'd need to pull back 4-5" of MP to achieve proper
vacuum. So let's say you're getting 21" of MP at full throttle...you need
to throttle back to 16-17" to produce enough vacuum to keep the gyro
spinning.
Need to climb over some terrain, you lose vacuum when you throttle up?
Screw that. Definitely not a viable full-time source of vacuum.
There are warnings in the Precise Flight SVS (used to have it on the
Mooneys) documentation about this, and I have a feeling it has bitten more
than one pilot -- who pulls on standby vac but doesn't know to pull the
throttle back...gyros don't work properly...disorientation...CFIT.
Imho it's much easier to architect a reliable, redundant electrical system
than it is to deal with vacuum. A must read is AeroElectric Connection,
even if you don't end up agreeing with Bob's philosophies.
http://www.aeroelectric.com
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Counterweighted Crank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Jim
Would you mind clarifying please.
On the top of your web site page it says 'LYCOMING O-360 MT PROPELLER' and
then it goes on to say 'any Lycoming 360 engine'.
Can it be used on both the O-360 and IO-360 as they have a different
harmonic signatures?
Regards
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Counterweighted Crank
> --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
>
> If you are considering the 360 non-counterbalanced angle valve Lycoming
> with
> a CS prop, there is a RPM restriction for continuos operation in the
> range
> between 2000 and 2300 RPM. Sometimes there is an allowance for operation
> in
> the area below a certain manifold pressure. This is a propeller and
> engine
> combination restriction.
>
> MT Propeller has designed a 2 blade aluminum blade CS propeller that does
> not have this RPM restriction. It is specifically designed for the
> Lycoming
> 360 engine with the non-counterweighted crankshaft and the RV series
> aircraft.
>
> Additional information for this propeller is on my website at
> _www.lessdrag.com/lycomingpropeller.html_
> (http://www.lessdrag.com/lycomingpropeller.html)
>
> Jim Ayers
> Less Drag Products, Inc.
>
>
> In a message dated 10/25/2004 11:59:54 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
> rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
>
> Time: 11:03:54 AM PST US
> From: Kathleen@rv7.us
> Subject: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
> 0.00 FORGED_RCVD_HELO Received: contains a forged HELO
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
>
> What differences or problems should I expect with a non-counterbalanced
> angle valve Lycoming with a CS prop? Anybody have experience with this
> combo? I am getting very close to my engine choice, but it's these
> little
> things! :-)
>
> Kathleen Evans
> www.rv7.us
>
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Chuck,
The main reason not to use outside air for electronics cooling is
the fact you will pick up moisture and blow it on the radio's :-(((((.
Just blow cabin air on the radio's to carry away the heat. I used a
small axial fan from my local R.S. and hooked it up to the main bus. It
ran all the time and pulled very little power. Keeping the radio's
cooler means many years of life before failure. Heat is the killer.
Jim Nelson
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Electric vs Vac |
--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
John,
Back up with another electrical device. If you mean power
source, your battery should be adequate enough for at least one hour on
your emergency bus. If you check Bob Nuckols's advice on batterys,
checking them yearly and replacing them when they don't have the capacity
for the emergency run. Most people run their battery untill it won't
start the engine. At that point, the battery is way past it ability to
handle an emergency.
Jim Nelson
RV9-A QB (arriving next friday- :-))))) )
Message 33
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| Subject: | Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
Another good hose tester is your standard grease gun. Just remove the zerk
nozzle, screw on a T fitting, screw a gauge to the center T leg and
suitable adapters and your test hose to the through fitting. Hold the whole
mess vertical by the far end of the hose, fill with hydraulic fluid, cap and
pump away. You can get up to 3000 psi if need be.
Ron.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel & Oil Hoses
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Jerry,
I made up the hoses for my firewall mounted oil cooler using parts from
Vans.
One of the original hoses would have worked, but I messed it up trying to
shorten it and reuse the fitting. These fittings are not reusable. It is
almost impossible to get the rubber out of the fitting after you take the
fitting
apart. Ask Vans for the instruction sheet when you order the fittings. If
you
are careful you can make your own with a high degree of confidence that
they're right.
As for testing the hoses after fabrication, here is what I did. I modified
a
bottle jack by drilling and tapping for a 1/4 inch pipe thread in the base
of
it. I took the jack apart to do this, so it is not a trivial job, but
certainly doable. I capped off the hose, and filled the jack and hose with
motor
oil. Also had a 1000 psi gauge teed into the system. Had to block the jack
so
the piston wouldn't extend. Took each hose up to 1000 psi for about a half
hour and looked for leaks. Had none, and haven't had any on the airplane
either.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Has flown great since -- well, right out of the box. Got a 2nd
opinion from an experienced RVer to be sure I wasn't deluding myself! 61
hours
now.)
In a message dated 10/26/04 2:08:51 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
Jerry2DT@aol.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>
> List,
>
> I'm trying to decide whether to buy Van's "ready made" fuel and oil hoses
> or
> roll my own from Aeroquip or Earl's Performance products thru Summit
Racing.
>
> Looks like some savings there. Any thoughts appreciated from those who've
> been there done that...
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | traffic warning scopes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Kim,
I've been flying a Surecheck VRX in my Navion since buying it at Oshkosh
this year. I'm very pleased with it and have gained a lot of confidence in
its readings. I fly out of DWH, a busy tower-controlled field under
Houston's Class B so I see a lot of traffic. I don't know if the VRX alert
logic is significantly better than anyone else's but I only get flooded with
traffic calls when I'm in the pattern. I normally keep the watch bubble at
the default of 5mi/5000ft. When it displays traffic it really is there but
it's amazing to me how seldom other planes show up once away from airports.
Even though it doesn't display direction, by keeping the display in my scan
I get a good sense of the target direction from the changes. When it finally
alerts, I've either already acquired it or know about where to look. I
really like the altitude display and it's always been spot on. It saves a
lot of heartburn if you know the guy is above or below and whether he's
level or not.
There are some annoyances: The form factor is awkward. My glareshield is
even narrower than the RVs and it wants the antenna to be vertical. I've
made peace with it but it's cumbersome. It works on signal strength so
targets below and behind get blocked somewhat. The audio volume goes back to
max on power up. And of course there are the power and audio cables flopping
around. I could solve all but the audio volume by panel mounting it with
split antennas on top and bottom. I'd do that in a heartbeat on an RV and
may yet on the Navion. Would I rather have TCAS or TIS? Sure, but they're
not in the budget right now. It may not suit everyone but after a close
encounter of the aluminum kind out in the middle of nowhere, it works for
me.
Regards,
Greg Young - Houston (DWH)
RV-6 N6GY ...project Phoenix
Navion N5221K - just an XXL RV-6A
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> In this very busy Seattle airspace, I am considering an
> in-cockpit traffic warning scope. I have checked several
> suppliers and there are 2 manufactures on the market. Does
> anyone have any experience with these units? Good and/or bad?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A - flying. 13 hours
> Seattle
Message 35
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--> RV-List message posted by: Steve Slayden <steve_slayden@yahoo.com>
Bill, I live in Carrollton - next to Plano. I'm the guy that exchanged wingtips
with Rick who I think hangers next to you. I have a hanger out at Northwest Regional,
52F. There are a number of RVers here, but it's quite a hike from North
Dallas. Addison is expensive and annoying dealing with the traffic. TKI is
a little better about the traffic and cost, I think. Denton is a good alternative
(not as busy or costly) but further out. I like 52F because it's a private
airport that is not too busy but has some activity and RV builders. It's about
a 45 minute commute from north Carrollton to 52F.
I think the going rate for a T hanger is $250/mo. The guy to call here is John
Shackelford 817-430-0666.
Airparks... affordable... Dallas area... Nope.
There are some hanger/homes for sale here. One I know about is selling for $275k.
What brings you to the area?
Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane
Anyone living in or around Plano, TX know of any hangar space available and
the costs... Also, anyone know of any airparks in the area that are
affordable?
-Bill
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re:Valve stem caps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I saw a solution to valve caps on one of these sites.
Just use a 3/16 nut driver to wedge onto the cap to remove or install.
No chasing tubing or building.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 10/26/04 3:37:56 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
rwv@nwnatural.com writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "van Bladeren, Ron" <rwv@nwnatural.com>
>
> Another good hose tester is your standard grease gun.
Ron,
Now, why didn't I think of that? I looked all over the place for a simple
pump!
Do not archive.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: Too many lists? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
If you want my opinion, and I'm sure you don't, none of the solutions
talked about are worth any more than the current RV list. I'm not
saying the Matronics lists are perfect but the phpbbs isn't any better.
I have used them plenty before and I'm not impressed. I am at a loss as
to what formating features they have that are desirable. I can't think
of anything they can do that can't be done with any modern email
client. The one HUGE disadvantage the web forums have is there is no
easy way to save messages you really are interested in on your own
computer.
Now let me debunk some of the supposed disadvantages to email lists.
And propose the BEST solution that no one has mentioned yet.
Can't be sorted by thread or date. You really need to learn how to use
your email software.
No easy way to include images or files. This is not a limitation of
email lists. The Matronics lists don't allow attachments but that could
be changed and I think it would be a good thing personally but I don't
think it is that big of a deal.
Categorization: That is only as good as the ability of submitters to
put a relevant subject on their postings. Also every email client I
have used allows you to put messages in to a broad range of folders to
categorize them.
Lots of messages flooding your in box: I belong to LOTS of mailing
lists from RV building to Database design and not one email sent to any
of those lists I subscribe to ends up in my in box. I set up filters so
messages from each list goes to it's own folder. Again learn how to use
your email software.
Searching function: once again learn how to use your email software.
Web browsing and searching archives: Ever hear of google?
If you really want something better than the Matronics lists then the
best thing to do is start a new News Group. They have been around since
the dawn of time (ok slight exaggeration :) They offer everything email
lists have, and google maintains the searchable archive for free. If
you want to save a message you can use your email client to save it in a
local folder. No need for anyone to maintain a server, archive or list
of subscribers. It's simple and there is easily enough Internet RVers
to get a news group going.
All that said I can't see any reason why the Matronics lists aren't all
you could want except for maybe attaching photos to messages. But you
can do that in a round about way through the photo share. For me it's
just easier to put photos up on a web server and include a link to them
in my messages.
Chris W
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
http://thewishzone.com
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I spent a lot of money on my hoses and definitely feel better when Im up
high. I just didnt think the cost savings here was worth the fire risk.
Just my opinion.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
140 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <Jerry2DT@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel & Oil Hoses
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>
> List,
>
> I'm trying to decide whether to buy Van's "ready made" fuel and oil hoses
> or
> roll my own from Aeroquip or Earl's Performance products thru Summit
> Racing.
> Looks like some savings there. Any thoughts appreciated from those who've
> been there done that...
>
> Jerry Cochran
>
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>>
>>Another good hose tester is your standard grease gun.
Also, you can test all your hoses at once by simply connecting them together with
some spare fittings.
Doug Gray
Message 41
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
The trouble with manifold vacuum is that it goes away when you reduce
power. I guess you could hang a venturi on the side of the airplane as
they used to do or hinge one so you could swing it into the slipstream
when you need it. Sounds heavy, complicated and draggy to me. Back up
electric power can be done several different ways and can be much more
reliable than vacuum.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Furey
Subject: RV-List: Electric vs Vac
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>With many now going total electric and looking for a back up. Has
anyone
tried using a vacume attitude indicator driven only by the intake
manifold
vacume such as the stand by systems when a pump fails. I guess the only
savings would be the pump. Any thoughts??
John RV6A
Removing Vac Sys for Dynon
==
==
==
==
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: re: RV8 seats |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Abby or those that know, what is the composition of the foamy part of the seat?
How are they made prior to putting on the exterior covering?
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei"
>
> Mick,
>
> I think you are mistaken. I worked with Abby at flightline to develop
> templates for my '4 and she continually made references to the '8 seats.
>
> Also, she has photos of '8 seats on her web site. She doesn't identify them
> as such, but thats what they are.
>
> Give Abby a call. She is GREAT to work with and puts out a really great
> product at a reasonable price.
>
> Best regards,
>
> Don Mei
>
>
>
>
>
>
Abby or those that know, what is the composition of the foamy part of the seat?
How are they made prior to putting on the exterior covering?
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <DON_MEI@HOTMAIL.COM>
Mick,
I think you are mistaken. I worked with Abby at flightline to develop
templates for my '4 and she continually made references to the '8 seats.
Also, she has photos of '8 seats on her web site. She doesn't identify them
as such, but thats what they are.
Give Abby a call. She is GREAT to work with and puts out a really great
product at a reasonable price.
Best regards,
Don Mei
er see banner ads or any other
com/rv-list
Message 43
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric vs Vac |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
For backup vacuum, I was wondering if you couldn't take an old venturi
tube, cut it up and put the out put from a third, or one of the
existing, NACA ducts to the inlet of the venture. Then rig up some kind
of shut off valve. Wouldn't that make for clean installation with very
little drag when it wasn't in use? Maybe rig it up so the air exited
near by in case you were flying in rain or very cold conditions and
didn't want that air in the cabin. Just an idea.
Chris W
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
http://thewishzone.com
Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: Counterweighted Crank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
With all due respect I do not believe Wayne's blanket statement below is
correct.
The Hartzell CY2L-1BF constant speed propeller in combination with an O-320
engine (which is non-counterweighted) is not RPM restricted other than a
maximum of 2700 RPM.
Van's parts catalogs and the operating manuals received with this propeller
both indicate no restricted range RPM limits. The type certificate data
sheet (P920) also includes no restricted range RPM limitations. A call to
Hartzell tech support also confirmed the above. The Hartzell tech support
rep indicated there were many factors other than whether or not a crankshaft
is counterweighted that determine restricted prop RPM ranges. He also
cautioned that their limitations or lack thereof applied to standard
configuration engines only.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Kathleen
>
> All constant speed propeller manufacturers, both metal and composite, with
> the exception of Aero Composites, state that with a non counterweighted
> crankshaft you must not run the engine continuously in the 2000-2300 rpm
> range.
>
> Wayne Glasser
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Kathleen@rv7.us>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
>>
>> What differences or problems should I expect with a non-counterbalanced
>> angle valve Lycoming with a CS prop? Anybody have experience with this
>> combo? I am getting very close to my engine choice, but it's these
>> little
>> things! :-)
>>
>> Kathleen Evans
>> www.rv7.us
>>
Message 45
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|
| Subject: | Re: Counterweighted Crank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Dick
Missing information, I was talking about -360 lycomings.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
>
> With all due respect I do not believe Wayne's blanket statement below is
> correct.
>
> The Hartzell CY2L-1BF constant speed propeller in combination with an
> O-320
> engine (which is non-counterweighted) is not RPM restricted other than a
> maximum of 2700 RPM.
>
> Van's parts catalogs and the operating manuals received with this
> propeller
> both indicate no restricted range RPM limits. The type certificate data
> sheet (P920) also includes no restricted range RPM limitations. A call to
> Hartzell tech support also confirmed the above. The Hartzell tech support
> rep indicated there were many factors other than whether or not a
> crankshaft
> is counterweighted that determine restricted prop RPM ranges. He also
> cautioned that their limitations or lack thereof applied to standard
> configuration engines only.
>
> Dick Sipp
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
>>
>> Kathleen
>>
>> All constant speed propeller manufacturers, both metal and composite,
>> with
>> the exception of Aero Composites, state that with a non counterweighted
>> crankshaft you must not run the engine continuously in the 2000-2300 rpm
>> range.
>>
>> Wayne Glasser
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Kathleen@rv7.us>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
>>
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
>>>
>>> What differences or problems should I expect with a non-counterbalanced
>>> angle valve Lycoming with a CS prop? Anybody have experience with this
>>> combo? I am getting very close to my engine choice, but it's these
>>> little
>>> things! :-)
>>>
>>> Kathleen Evans
>>> www.rv7.us
>>>
>
>
>
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | FW: SkyTec Lightweight Starter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
I posted this a few days ago and had a fellow that wanted it
right away so I deleted several others that emailed later. The guy that
wanted it found out he has a 122 tooth ring gear so he can't use it so
it is available again. Feel free to call me if you have any questions.
Dick Dial
281-687-2057
I have a SkyTec starter model 149-12LSX, Ser# F2LX-270302,
Pitch 12/14 for sale. It came off a XP-360 and has 20 hours on it. It is
just like new.
Off list contact jrdial@hal-pc.org
Phone 281-687-2057
$275 including ground UPS in the US
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 47
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|
RV-8 list <rv8-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor@mac.com>
Was cleaning out a corner of my shop and found a part labeled (WH 801)
Cannot find it on my plans and wonder where it goes. Any one have any
idea? My wings are done and I don't think I'm missing any parts but
I've thought that before.
RV-8/N366RV/Panama City Fl
Message 48
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|
| Subject: | Re: Counterweighted Crank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
If you look up the TCDS (P-920)
http://www.airweb.faa.gov/Regulatory_and_Guidance_Library%5CrgMakeModel.nsf/0/C459056338A0F90A86256D600050815A?OpenDocument
you will find that the prop Van's sells for the O-320 with the standard 7663
blades has no restricted or limited RPM and a redline of 2,800 RPM.
My two favorite RPM settings are 2,100 and 2,300. When I cruise single ship
or as lead of a flight, I typically cruise at 2,300 RPM burning 7 GPH. KTAS
is typically 150-160. Have 1,604 flying hours in 7 years doing this. 10
trips across the US including the Bahamas. As far north as Fort Yukon
Alaska north of the Arctic Circle.
Have test flown at 2,800 RPM (3 turns on the prop governor stop). Top speed
did not change but ROC was better at LOW airspeeds (65 KIAS).
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,604 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
With all due respect I do not believe Wayne's blanket statement below is
correct.
The Hartzell CY2L-1BF constant speed propeller in combination with an O-320
engine (which is non-counterweighted) is not RPM restricted other than a
maximum of 2700 RPM.
Van's parts catalogs and the operating manuals received with this propeller
both indicate no restricted range RPM limits. The type certificate data
sheet (P920) also includes no restricted range RPM limitations. A call to
Hartzell tech support also confirmed the above. The Hartzell tech support
rep indicated there were many factors other than whether or not a crankshaft
is counterweighted that determine restricted prop RPM ranges. He also
cautioned that their limitations or lack thereof applied to standard
configuration engines only.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Kathleen
>
> All constant speed propeller manufacturers, both metal and composite,
with
> the exception of Aero Composites, state that with a non counterweighted
> crankshaft you must not run the engine continuously in the 2000-2300 rpm
> range.
>
> Wayne Glasser
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Kathleen@rv7.us>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
>>
>> What differences or problems should I expect with a non-counterbalanced
>> angle valve Lycoming with a CS prop? Anybody have experience with this
>> combo? I am getting very close to my engine choice, but it's these
>> little
>> things! :-)
>>
>> Kathleen Evans
>> www.rv7.us
>>
hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 49
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|
| Subject: | Re: Electric vs Vac |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Uuh... There are certainly troubles with manifold vacuum as an
alternate source for vacuum instruments, but that isn't one of them.
Reducing power increases manifold vacuum - not decreases it.
Dick Tasker.
Ed Holyoke wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
>The trouble with manifold vacuum is that it goes away when you reduce
>power. I guess you could hang a venturi on the side of the airplane as
>they used to do or hinge one so you could swing it into the slipstream
>when you need it. Sounds heavy, complicated and draggy to me. Back up
>electric power can be done several different ways and can be much more
>reliable than vacuum.
>
>Pax,
>
>Ed Holyoke
>
>
>
Message 50
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| Subject: | Re: Unknown part |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Only things listed on "The List" starting with WH are;
WH SM35-1/2-9X0.75P15 SHRINK LABEL P15
WH-P10 #2 ELEC.CABLE 15.25" $10.08
WH-P11 #2 ELEC.CABLE 34.25" $17.52
WH-P15 #2 ELEC.CABLE 15.75" $10.17
WH-P16 #2 ELEC.CABLE 30" $8.35
WH-P17 #2 ELEC.CABLE 37.25" $19.25
WH-P18 #2 ELEC.CABLE 15.25" $10.08
WH-P19 #2 ELEC.CABLE 9.25" $7.81
WH-P4 #2 ELEC.CABLE 127.25" $38.00
WH-P4F #2 ELEC.CABLE 7.75" $7.13
WH-P5 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11" $8.35
WH-P6 #2 ELEC.CABLE 11.75" $8.72
Did this come with a landing light kit or something? What does it look like?
Karie
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed OConnor" <Edwardoconnor@mac.com>
<rv8-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Unknown part
> --> RV-List message posted by: Ed OConnor <Edwardoconnor@mac.com>
>
> Was cleaning out a corner of my shop and found a part labeled (WH 801)
> Cannot find it on my plans and wonder where it goes. Any one have any
> idea? My wings are done and I don't think I'm missing any parts but
> I've thought that before.
>
> RV-8/N366RV/Panama City Fl
>
>
>
Message 51
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I rolled my own from Earl's products. I had them pressure tested at an
aircraft shop. They still leaked. One time it was fuel while still on the
ground. (This was from the person who bought my airplane.) Could have been
a real problem. He replaced everything with aviation hoses.
Next airplane will have nothing but aviation lines and hoses. Period.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel & Oil Hoses
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> I spent a lot of money on my hoses and definitely feel better when Im up
> high. I just didnt think the cost savings here was worth the fire risk.
> Just my opinion.
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 140 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Jerry2DT@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Fuel & Oil Hoses
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
> >
> >
> > List,
> >
> > I'm trying to decide whether to buy Van's "ready made" fuel and oil
hoses
> > or
> > roll my own from Aeroquip or Earl's Performance products thru Summit
> > Racing.
> > Looks like some savings there. Any thoughts appreciated from those
who've
> > been there done that...
> >
> > Jerry Cochran
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Counterweighted Crank |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stan Jones" <stan.jones@xtra.co.nz>
I too am at the stage of picking an engine prop combo. I contacted Hartzell
and got this reply.
I am sure others have used this combo, so what do you experts think. Dan
used something very similar.
Is Hartzell just covering it's arse. I am very discouraged.
Stan Jones. N.Z.
-------Original Message-------
From: rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Dick
Missing information, I was talking about -360 lycomings.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
>
> With all due respect I do not believe Wayne's blanket statement below is
> correct.
>
> The Hartzell CY2L-1BF constant speed propeller in combination with an
> O-320
> engine (which is non-counterweighted) is not RPM restricted other than a
> maximum of 2700 RPM.
>
> Van's parts catalogs and the operating manuals received with this
> propeller
> both indicate no restricted range RPM limits. The type certificate data
> sheet (P920) also includes no restricted range RPM limitations. A call to
> Hartzell tech support also confirmed the above. The Hartzell tech support
> rep indicated there were many factors other than whether or not a
> crankshaft
> is counterweighted that determine restricted prop RPM ranges. He also
> cautioned that their limitations or lack thereof applied to standard
> configuration engines only.
>
> Dick Sipp
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
>>
>> Kathleen
>>
>> All constant speed propeller manufacturers, both metal and composite,
>> with
>> the exception of Aero Composites, state that with a non counterweighted
>> crankshaft you must not run the engine continuously in the 2000-2300 rpm
>> range.
>>
>> Wayne Glasser
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: <Kathleen@rv7.us>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: RV-List: Counterweighted Crank
>>
>>
>>> --> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
>>>
>>> What differences or problems should I expect with a non-counterbalanced
>>> angle valve Lycoming with a CS prop? Anybody have experience with this
>>> combo? I am getting very close to my engine choice, but it's these
>>> little
>>> things! :-)
>>>
>>> Kathleen Evans
>>> www.rv7.us
>>>
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
If they leaked it was from they way they were put together not because
they were Earl's.
Paul Besing wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
>I rolled my own from Earl's products. I had them pressure tested at an
>aircraft shop. They still leaked. One time it was fuel while still on the
>ground. (This was from the person who bought my airplane.) Could have been
>a real problem. He replaced everything with aviation hoses.
>
>Next airplane will have nothing but aviation lines and hoses. Period.
>
>Paul Besing
>RV-6A Sold
>RV-10 Soon
>http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
>Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
>http://www.kitlog.com
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel & Oil Hoses
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>>
>>I spent a lot of money on my hoses and definitely feel better when Im up
>>high. I just didnt think the cost savings here was worth the fire risk.
>>Just my opinion.
>>
>>Jeff Dowling
>>RV-6A, N915JD
>>140 hours
>>Chicago/Louisville
>>----- Original Message -----
>>From: <Jerry2DT@aol.com>
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV-List: Fuel & Oil Hoses
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>>>
>>>
>>>List,
>>>
>>>I'm trying to decide whether to buy Van's "ready made" fuel and oil
>>>
>>>
>hoses
>
>
>>>or
>>>roll my own from Aeroquip or Earl's Performance products thru Summit
>>>Racing.
>>>Looks like some savings there. Any thoughts appreciated from those
>>>
>>>
>who've
>
>
>>>been there done that...
>>>
>>>Jerry Cochran
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 54
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| Subject: | Wing root fairings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Now that I know I can use the flat aluminum wing root fairings, does anybody have
any info on performance? I saw one post that said stall speed could go up to
70 just by leaving off the rubber seal, and to 100 by omitting the fairings
completely. Have these results been documented? Can anyone explain exactly why
this occurs?
Steve Zicree
RV4, wrestling with canopy frame
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel & Oil Hoses |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/26/2004 9:35:34 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
jsflyrv@earthlink.net writes:
If they leaked it was from they way they were put together not because
they were Earl's.
Paul Besing wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
>
>I rolled my own from Earl's products. I had them pressure tested at an
>aircraft shop. They still leaked.
========================================
I agree with Jerry on this! My fuel and oil hoses were all constructed
easily by me in just a few hours using the modern all aluminum reusable fittings,
just like the Earl's brand, but bought through Skybolt in FL. No leaks at
all. I used the AQP synthetic rubber racing hose and added my own firesleeve
and stainless steel band clamps. This makes for a very stout and reliable
hose assy. Just follow the instructions and lubricate friction surfaces
liberally with STP as you go.
I still think, for safety sake, that all aircraft hoses should be rebuilt
(just as the oil cooler should be pressure cleaned and leak checked) when the
engine gets it's overhaul, unless you're Paul Rosales, in which case you would
be rebuilding them every three years. ;o)
Do not archive.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 719 hrs)
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