Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:33 AM - Re: Lubrication (Vanremog@aol.com)
2. 04:26 AM - Re: countersunk rivets (cgalley)
3. 05:00 AM - Re: JB Aircraft Engine Services - references (Ollie Washburn)
4. 06:06 AM - FW: Re: Flightline Interiors question (Glen Matejcek)
5. 06:14 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 39 Msgs - 10/28/04 (Frazier, Vincent A)
6. 06:20 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 39 Msgs - 10/28/04 (Frazier, Vincent A)
7. 06:29 AM - Looking for backer board for interior panels (Jeff Dowling)
8. 06:42 AM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (Paul Besing)
9. 06:46 AM - Re: Re: countersunk rivets (Rick Galati)
10. 06:49 AM - Re: countersunk rivets (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 07:24 AM - Check out AC 43-13 Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft I (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
12. 07:53 AM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (HAL KEMPTHORNE)
13. 08:01 AM - Re: Check out AC 43-13 Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft I (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
14. 08:52 AM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (Steven DiNieri)
15. 09:21 AM - 2002 RV-8A FOR SALE (Bill VonDane)
16. 09:46 AM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (linn walters)
17. 09:50 AM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (Andy Karmy)
18. 09:59 AM - Seat Description (Donald Mei)
19. 10:28 AM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (Jeff Point)
20. 10:34 AM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (linn walters)
21. 10:41 AM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (David Burton)
22. 11:20 AM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (steve zicree)
23. 12:39 PM - Re: Avionics (HAL KEMPTHORNE)
24. 02:10 PM - Re: Re: Re: countersunk rivets (cgalley)
25. 03:30 PM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (Vanremog@aol.com)
26. 05:52 PM - Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels (Doug Gray)
27. 06:11 PM - Re: countersunk rivets (Brian Kraut)
28. 06:57 PM - Trutrak Tracking (Larry Bowen)
29. 07:30 PM - Re: Trutrak Tracking (rmickey@ix.netcom.com)
30. 07:46 PM - Your Airplane at Home (Richard Sipp)
31. 10:19 PM - RV8 Sale (BRUCE GRAY)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/28/2004 10:44:59 PM Pacific Daylight Time,
ckhand@earthlink.net writes:
no lubricant is necessary as the blocks are a teflon based plastic.
===========================================
Not really Teflon, which is PolyTetraFluoroEthylene (PTFE) but another
polymer, UHMW (Ultra High Molecular Weight) Polyethylene naturally has a low
coefficient of friction. To say that no lubrication is necessary assumes that
dry
running causes so little wear as to be not worth the effort. I think you
will find that UHMW holds up pretty well as a lightly loaded bearing surface,
but, as they say in adult film business, a little lubrication couldn't hurt.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: countersunk rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I believe the number is 0.040 as min for countersinking. Check AC 43.13-1B
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: countersunk rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> Can anyone tell a mainly plastic airplane builder what the general rule of
> thumb is for when you can countersink sheet metal instead of dimple for a
> flush rivet.
>
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: JB Aircraft Engine Services - references |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <sjhdcl@kingston.net>
Subject: RV-List: JB Aircraft Engine Services - references
> --> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
>
> Anybody on the list dealt with JB Aircraft Engine Services, Inc in
> Sebring, Florida?
>
> Steve
> RV7A #2
>
> Steve--- They reworked 4 cylinders for my O-235 in the PA-12 and have done
> 6 cylinders on my friends Bonanza. We both have been satisfied with their
> work and if our O-360 in the 6a needed work I would take it to them.
Ollie 6A Central Fl.
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: FW: Re: Flightline Interiors question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Lucky-
Here's a copy of an e I sent to some other listers the other day. To answer the
QQ you asked, IIRC, the two foams you reference are basically the same. They
are both visco elastic. This means that unlike regular foam rubber, it isn't
springy. It's the same kind of stuff the good disposable earplugs are made
of. When you squish it, it tends to stay squished for a while instead of springing
right back. The less expensive stuff is just a bit stiffer when cold.
Perhaps a little springier too.
The visco elastic characteristic means a couple of things. First, when you sit
down on it, it takes a moment or two to conform to your rear end, especially
when cold. Foam rubber would conform instantly. Next. foam rubber being a form
of spring will create a pressure point where it is most highly compressed.
The visco elastic foams spread the load out and are therefore very much more
comfortable. This is why Vans sells a layer of visco elastic foam - comfort only.
The last issue has to do with crashworthiness. Recall that conventional
foam is a spring. In a crash, you compress the cushion. As the G's cease, the
'spring' cushion launches you, contributing to the secondary impacts with the
aircraft structure. These are often much more damaging than the primary impact.
Recall the video of Wayne Handley crashing the Turbo Raven. His head peaked
3 feet above the normal sitting position before his belts slammed him back
down into the cockpit, THAT'S the part that almos
t killed him. The visco elastic foams are more like shock absorbers than springs.
Upon impact it compresses and stays compressed for some time. It doesn't
launch you into the belts like regular foam. Putting a less dense / softer
layer (comfort) on top of a bunch of more dense / stiffer foam is probably the
ultimate in comfort AND crashworthiness. This is why Oregon uses 100% visco
elastic foam in their military and other high end seats. It's also why I went
that route with Abby's cushions.
FWIW
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
----- Original Message -----
From: Glen Matejcek
Subject: Re: Flightline Interiors question
Hi Guys-
Well, I'm back in town, so here's some pix of my new seats. I tried to show the
overall configuration as well as some details. Note some points of interest:
The front bottom seat is contoured to the odd space in the -8.
My front seat back is 3/4 inch taller than std due to the 'tall man' seat back
option (no extra charge!).
The removable bolster velcroed to the bottom of the rear seat to adjust for different
height backseaters.
100% confor foam construction, unlike van's seat materials. All that blue padding,
being dense and non-rebounding, will add a huge amount of protection to my
spine in a crash.
The little pad is a headrest for the rear seat. I hadn't known that was included....
All this is wrapped in a synthetic leather. It is very supple, durable, and comfortable.
This cost me just over one third of what Oregon Aero charges for their leather
rv-8 seat cushions. I believe that Oregon's cushions are more complex / highly
tailored than Abby's, but given that mine are made of confor foam, I don't see
that as relevant.
Abby will do custom embroidery and / or help you achieve whatever effect you want
for your interior. Given that I am building a plane to sit in and fly as opposed
to one to stand next to and show off, I opted for an utilitarian interior
vs. a flashy one. Once the plane is flying, we may choose to add a complete
cloth interior for the sake of sound and abrasion proofing, but we aren't doing
that at this time.
Sorry for the lack of pix of the cushions in the plane, but all the floorboards
are out at the moment as I string wire, and string wire, and string wire....
FWIW
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 5
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Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 39 Msgs - 10/28/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
**********SNIP Subject: RV-List: another EFIS?
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
http://www.ba-elec.com/New%20avionics/products.html SNIP************
I sure hope their product is better than their crappy website.
Vince
Message 6
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Subject: | RE: RV-List Digest: 39 Msgs - 10/28/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP*******Time: 10:06:26 AM PST US
From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Subject: Re: RV-List: EFIS Horizon
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Got better shots of most of the functions than their web site does?
They seem
to gloss over details of their moving map and that leads me to think
it's not
a very good page.
> No, they don't pay me to say this stuff....but they should!!!
>
> Vince Frazier
> F-1H Rocket, N540VF
> http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html SNIP
***********
Their map page is fine. It even gives obstacle alerts. Here's a couple
links.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Instruments%20and%20electr
ical.htm
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/2004-05-17/More%20EFIS%20d
isplays%203.jpg not a good picture since it was taken during
construction, but a picture nonetheless. The map page has several
options for how it is displayed, including HSI.
Message 7
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Subject: | Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Any suggestions on a light backer board for interior panels. My bird is already
a little on the plumpy side so Im trying to keep her from becoming a static
display while making her a little more eye friendly.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
140 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Foam core works well. Not the best fire retardent product in the world, but
it works well. You can get it as thin as 1/8" from craft stores like
Michaels.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Looking for backer board for interior panels
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Any suggestions on a light backer board for interior panels. My bird is
already a little on the plumpy side so Im trying to keep her from becoming a
static display while making her a little more eye friendly.
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 140 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: re: Re: countersunk rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Cy,
My preliminary search through AC-43 has proved fruitless. Perhaps you can steer
me towards the relevant part of AC-43 that documents .040 as the minimum material
thickness to machine countersink for a 426-AD3 rivet.
I ask this because many people refer to Section 5(E), page 5-3 of Van's manual
which would seem to indicate otherwise.
Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
I believe the number is 0.040 as min for countersinking. Check AC 43.13-1B
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: countersunk rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Brian,
While you can countersink .032 for a 3/32 rivet, dimpling makes a much
stronger joint. For the wing and fuselage skins, I would dimple. I found that
a
single hammer blow made a nice dimple without distorting the skin. Squeezing
distorted the skin more. My breakpoint would be to machine countersink no less
than .040. On the fuselage bottom where the skins join the carry-through
spar, I would dimple including the .040 spar.
The exception to this is nutplates, where there is really no structural load.
When installing nutplates with standard rivets its impossible to avoid a
knife edge unless you carefully deburr. You also have to countersink the
nutplate slightly so that the rivet will be flush.
There are always exceptions to rules, so this is just one opinion.
Welcome to the wonderful world of sheet metal. It won't be as smooth as
glass, but it flies just as good.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (flying about 62 hours)
In a message dated 10/28/04 10:39:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
brian.kraut@engalt.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> Can anyone tell a mainly plastic airplane builder what the general rule of
> thumb is for when you can countersink sheet metal instead of dimple for a
> flush rivet.
>
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | Check out AC 43-13 Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices |
- Aircraft I
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Click here: AC 43-13 Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices - Aircraft
Inspection and Repair
This URL will get the appropiate Advisory Circular for you. Save it in your
list of favorites for future reference - you WILL need it.
You can also purchase it from Gov't. Printing Office.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: HAL KEMPTHORNE <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
I'm using half inch foam insulating board with thin cloth. Total interior weight
will be less than 1.5 lbs.
hal
Jeff Dowling <shempdowling@earthlink.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
Any suggestions on a light backer board for interior panels. My bird is already
a little on the plumpy side so Im trying to keep her from becoming a static display
while making her a little more eye friendly.
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Check out AC 43-13 Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices |
- Aircraft I
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
And you can also get it at Builder's Bookstore at
http://buildersbooks.com/4313.htm
Andy
800 780-4115
> Click here: AC 43-13 Acceptable Methods, Techniques, and Practices -
Aircraft
> Inspection and Repair
>
> This URL will get the appropiate Advisory Circular for you. Save it in
your
> list of favorites for future reference - you WILL need it.
> You can also purchase it from Gov't. Printing Office.
>
> Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
> A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
> Charleston,Arkansas
> Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
Try chloroplast or corrugated plastic sheets from a graphics supplier. It's
the same stuff that I received from airtex for an "approved install". It's
easy to work with and water proof. My local guy sells it for 14 bucks a
sheet (48" x 96").
Steve
N221RV
Foam core works well. Not the best fire retardent product in the world, but
it works well. You can get it as thin as 1/8" from craft stores like
Michaels.
> Any suggestions on a light backer board for interior panels. My bird is
already a little on the plumpy side so Im trying to keep her from becoming a
static display while making her a little more eye friendly.
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 140 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | 2002 RV-8A FOR SALE |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am entertaining the thought of selling my RV-8A... Please feel free to
contact me with any questions!
More info and pix can be found here:
http://www.vondane.com/forsale/rv8a/
-Bill
* Price: $85,000
* Year: 2002
* Type: VAN'S RV-8A
* Registration: N8WV
* Airframe Total Time: (approximate) 196 Hours
* Airframe Empty Weight: 1029 lbs
* Useful Load: 771 lbs
* Engine Time: (approximate) 4956 Hours TT, 32 SMOH
* Engine/HP: Lycoming 0-320-E3D @ 170HP - wide deck
2004 Overhaul to within factory new specs
New ASI performance cam and Lycoming lifter bodies
New ECI 9:1 pistons, rings, and Superior pins
All hard parts cleaned, magnafluxed, and measured to be within factory new
specs
All new bearings, rod bolts, rod nuts, valve springs and keepers
All 4 cyls (channel chrome) overhauled and returned to factory new specs
Single Lightspeed Plasma II+ Electronic Ignition
Vetterman Crossover Exhaust
35 Amp Lightweight Alternator
SkyTech Lightweight Starter
Stewart Warner Oil Cooler with cockpit controllable door
* Prop: Catto three blade - 66x72
* Avionics: Microair 760-8.33 Transceiver
Microair T2000 transponder
Ameri-king Altitude Encoder
PS Engineering PCD7100I Stereo Intercom / CD Player
* Flight Instruments:
Airspeed
Altitude
VSI
Needle & Ball
LRI Digital AOA
G-Meter
Compass
* Engine Instruments:
Grand Rapids Technologies - EIS4000
Tachometer
MAP
All 4 EGT
All 4 CHT
Oil Pressure
Oil Temperature
Outside Air Temperature
Carb Temp
Fuel Levels
Fuel Flow
Voltmeter
Ammeter
Hour meter
Flight Timer
* Other Equipment:
Van's new "Sheared" Wingtips
CreativAir Strobe Package - Wings & Tail
CreativAir Wingtip mounted 75 Watt Halogen Landing/Taxi Lights with
Alternating Flasher Unit and integrated LED Nav lights
AK-450 ELT
Van's fuel gauges
3 Interior Fresh Air Vents - Upgraded Aluminum Vents
* Exterior: The plane is unpainted
* Interior: Painted gray to match Van's powder coating, ComforFoam cloth
seats, 4 point seat harnesses
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>Any suggestions on a light backer board for interior panels. My bird is already
a little on the plumpy side so Im trying to keep her from becoming a static
display while making her a little more eye friendly.
>
>Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>140 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
Go to a sign shop and get some plastic corrugated sign material ......
or run out and get some from the political signs on Tuesday night!!!
Linn
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
The next question would be... What do you all use for glue to hold the
material to the board?
I used the plastic board product, covered with 1/8" sound foam and
vinyl, but all the glue's I have used to date let go when it gets hot
outside!
I wrapped the vinyl around the edges and overlapped about 1" on the
back to hold. Seems to need some other form of holding than just glue.
Tried Spray 77, contact cement, automotive trim & emblem glue.
- Andy Karmy
andy@karmy.com
On Oct 29, 2004, at 8:51 AM, Steven DiNieri wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
>
> Try chloroplast or corrugated plastic sheets from a graphics supplier.
> It's
> the same stuff that I received from airtex for an "approved install".
> It's
> easy to work with and water proof. My local guy sells it for 14 bucks a
> sheet (48" x 96").
> Steve
> N221RV
>
>
> Foam core works well. Not the best fire retardent product in the
> world, but
> it works well. You can get it as thin as 1/8" from craft stores like
> Michaels.
>
>> Any suggestions on a light backer board for interior panels. My bird
>> is
> already a little on the plumpy side so Im trying to keep her from
> becoming a
> static display while making her a little more eye friendly.
>>
>> Jeff Dowling
>> RV-6A, N915JD
>> 140 hours
>> Chicago/Louisville
>>
>>
>
>
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> _-
> =======================================================================
> >
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Seat Description |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
Abby used temperfoam for my seat. I don't know how many layers, but it is
very comfortable. She also uses some kind of batting to "puff up" the seat,
so it looks nice when you're not sitting in it.
I'll post some pics to www.3b9.com/planeseats.html by the end of the day, in
case anyone wants to see mine.
Don
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Try 3M 90, a high-strength version of 77, should be available on the
same shelf at the hardware store. Or try Pli-o-bond contact cement.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>Tried Spray 77, contact cement, automotive trim & emblem glue.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Andy Karmy wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Andy Karmy <andy@karmy.com>
>
>The next question would be... What do you all use for glue to hold the
>material to the board?
>
>I used the plastic board product, covered with 1/8" sound foam and
>vinyl, but all the glue's I have used to date let go when it gets hot
>outside!
>
>I wrapped the vinyl around the edges and overlapped about 1" on the
>back to hold. Seems to need some other form of holding than just glue.
>
>Tried Spray 77, contact cement, automotive trim & emblem glue.
>
>- Andy Karmy
> andy@karmy.com
>
You may have to scuff the plastic with some 80 grit sandpaper .... and
the spray 99 should work ..... follow the instructions.
Linn
>
>On Oct 29, 2004, at 8:51 AM, Steven DiNieri wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steven DiNieri" <capsteve@adelphia.net>
>>
>>Try chloroplast or corrugated plastic sheets from a graphics supplier.
>>It's
>>the same stuff that I received from airtex for an "approved install".
>>It's
>>easy to work with and water proof. My local guy sells it for 14 bucks a
>>sheet (48" x 96").
>>Steve
>>N221RV
>>
>>
>>Foam core works well. Not the best fire retardent product in the
>>world, but
>>it works well. You can get it as thin as 1/8" from craft stores like
>>Michaels.
>>
>>
>>
>>>Any suggestions on a light backer board for interior panels. My bird
>>>is
>>>
>>>
>>already a little on the plumpy side so Im trying to keep her from
>>becoming a
>>static display while making her a little more eye friendly.
>>
>>
>>>Jeff Dowling
>>>RV-6A, N915JD
>>>140 hours
>>>Chicago/Louisville
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>_-
>>=======================================================================
>>_-
>>=======================================================================
>>_-
>>=======================================================================
>>_-
>>=======================================================================
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Upholstery shops use a glue pot with hot liquid glue. They can spray it on
with a gun. They also use steam to heat and soften the material so it
stretches and wraps around the backing board without wrinkles. I'm sure
that if you took your parts to them they would be happy to stick the fabric
on for you. I've got a buddy who owns an upholstery shop. He does mostly
furniture but when he gets back from hunting I'll ask him what he
recommends. An upholstery shop that does automotive interiors is really
what you want if you take it to someone.
The best glue I've ever found is the contact adhesive used to attach plastic
laminate (Formica). Don't use the water based stuff. Use the one with the
warnings about not blowing your house up with the fumes. It's the only
thing I've ever used that would not come loose over time.
Dave Burton
RV6
(lots of custom interiors over the years)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for backer board for interior panels
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> Try 3M 90, a high-strength version of 77, should be available on the
> same shelf at the hardware store. Or try Pli-o-bond contact cement.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
> >
> >Tried Spray 77, contact cement, automotive trim & emblem glue.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Contact cement, if used according to directions (both surfaces, wait to
flash) is bomb-proof but also sort of unforgiving to work with. You get one
chance to line things up and then you're "stuck". Also, should we be
concerned about the flammability of the dried glue? I know that wet contact
cement is super flammable.
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for backer board for interior panels
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> Upholstery shops use a glue pot with hot liquid glue. They can spray it
on
> with a gun. They also use steam to heat and soften the material so it
> stretches and wraps around the backing board without wrinkles. I'm sure
> that if you took your parts to them they would be happy to stick the
fabric
> on for you. I've got a buddy who owns an upholstery shop. He does mostly
> furniture but when he gets back from hunting I'll ask him what he
> recommends. An upholstery shop that does automotive interiors is really
> what you want if you take it to someone.
>
> The best glue I've ever found is the contact adhesive used to attach
plastic
> laminate (Formica). Don't use the water based stuff. Use the one with
the
> warnings about not blowing your house up with the fumes. It's the only
> thing I've ever used that would not come loose over time.
>
> Dave Burton
> RV6
> (lots of custom interiors over the years)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint@mindspring.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Looking for backer board for interior panels
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
> >
> > Try 3M 90, a high-strength version of 77, should be available on the
> > same shelf at the hardware store. Or try Pli-o-bond contact cement.
> >
> > Jeff Point
> > RV-6
> > Milwaukee WI
> >
> > >
> > >Tried Spray 77, contact cement, automotive trim & emblem glue.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: HAL KEMPTHORNE <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
I have a Narco MK12 in my Debonair which now requires a slight side pressure on
one of the tuning knobs to get next frequency. It is only 12 years old.
hal
Jim & Bev Cone <jimnbev@olypen.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim & Bev Cone"
MK12D+ is bullet proof. It is the best radio/nav I have ever used, period.
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: re: Re: countersunk rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
After I wrote about AC 43-13 I went looking and could not find it. I even
checked a Bingalis Book. I then consulted an old time metal working A&P.
He said that the thickness depends on the rivet head size. Regular #3 needs
0.032, #4 0.040 thick material. Cessna uses a special small head #4 so they
can countersink as thin as 0.032 with a #4.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rick Galati" <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: re: Re: countersunk rivets
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> Cy,
>
> My preliminary search through AC-43 has proved fruitless. Perhaps you can
steer me towards the relevant part of AC-43 that documents .040 as the
minimum material thickness to machine countersink for a 426-AD3 rivet.
>
> I ask this because many people refer to Section 5(E), page 5-3 of Van's
manual which would seem to indicate otherwise.
>
> Rick Galati RV-6A "finishing"
>
>
> I believe the number is 0.040 as min for countersinking. Check AC 43.13-1B
>
> Cy Galley - Chair,
> AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
> A Service Project of Chapter 75
> EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
> EAA Sport Pilot
>
>
Message 25
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|
Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 10/29/2004 6:30:38 AM Pacific Daylight Time,
shempdowling@earthlink.net writes:
Any suggestions on a light backer board for interior panels. My bird is
already a little on the plumpy side so Im trying to keep her from becoming a
static display while making her a little more eye friendly.
=============================================
I used the gray corrugated polypropylene signboard available from Tap
Plastics.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: Looking for backer board for interior panels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Any suggestions on a light backer board for interior panels. My bird is
> already a little on the plumpy side so Im trying to keep her from becoming a
> static display while making her a little more eye friendly.
>
>
> =============================================
>
> I used the gray corrugated polypropylene signboard available from Tap
> Plastics.
>
I had in mind to use some 0.016 Al sheet. Weight for weight I was thinking this
would be more
durable. Is this overkill?
Doug Gray
Message 27
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Subject: | countersunk rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Thanks to all that replied.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: countersunk rivets
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Brian,
While you can countersink .032 for a 3/32 rivet, dimpling makes a much
stronger joint. For the wing and fuselage skins, I would dimple. I found
that a
single hammer blow made a nice dimple without distorting the skin.
Squeezing
distorted the skin more. My breakpoint would be to machine countersink no
less
than .040. On the fuselage bottom where the skins join the carry-through
spar, I would dimple including the .040 spar.
The exception to this is nutplates, where there is really no structural
load.
When installing nutplates with standard rivets its impossible to avoid a
knife edge unless you carefully deburr. You also have to countersink the
nutplate slightly so that the rivet will be flush.
There are always exceptions to rules, so this is just one opinion.
Welcome to the wonderful world of sheet metal. It won't be as smooth as
glass, but it flies just as good.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (flying about 62 hours)
In a message dated 10/28/04 10:39:46 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
brian.kraut@engalt.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> Can anyone tell a mainly plastic airplane builder what the general rule of
> thumb is for when you can countersink sheet metal instead of dimple for a
> flush rivet.
>
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
Message 28
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Subject: | Trutrak Tracking |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I have a TruTrak DF200VS driven by a Garmin 196. It follows a route very
nicely, except it will not anticipate a turn. I have to go to, and through,
a waypoint before it begins to turn for the next waypoint. Is there a way
to program either box so turns begin just prior to reaching a waypoint...ie,
rounding the corner?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 29
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Subject: | Re: Trutrak Tracking |
--> RV-List message posted by: rmickey@ix.netcom.com
This is called GPS Steering (GPSS). The TruTrak will do this IF the GPS it is
recieveing its signal from is putting out the signal. I do not know if the Garmin
196 has this capability. My Apollo GX60 has this GPSS output and my DFC250
anticipates turns as advertized.
Ross Mickey
TruTrak DFC250
N9PT
-----Original Message-----
From: Larry Bowen <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Trutrak Tracking
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I have a TruTrak DF200VS driven by a Garmin 196. It follows a route very
nicely, except it will not anticipate a turn. I have to go to, and through,
a waypoint before it begins to turn for the next waypoint. Is there a way
to program either box so turns begin just prior to reaching a waypoint...ie,
rounding the corner?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 30
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<OhioValleyRVators@yahoogroups.com>, <rvsoutheast-list@matronics.com>,
<teamrv@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: | Your Airplane at Home |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
We have decided to market our home (by owner) at Eagle Neck Airpark in Georgia.
Your RV would be the 5th here and parked in your heated, airconditioned hangar
a few steps from the front door.
Please see: http://www.airporthomes.com/hm0862.htm if you are interested or contact rsipp@earthlink.net for more detailed information.
Dick Sipp
RV4 N250DS
RV10 110DV
do not archive
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
I am curious to all that are unloading there RV8's? Is winter coming and
everyone is itching to build something else or what? It is funny to see
people let go of there aircraft and have nothing to fall back on for there
"rotate the world 3g get away". Like I said, just curious?
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
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