Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:33 AM - to firesleeve or not (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
2. 04:15 AM - Re: Tufting (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
3. 04:20 AM - Help with the RV-8 seat back (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
4. 04:29 AM - Re: to firesleeve or not ()
5. 05:05 AM - Re: Help with the RV-8 seat back (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
6. 05:24 AM - (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
7. 05:25 AM - Re: Help with the RV-8 seat back (Brian Denk)
8. 06:12 AM - Re: Bending Hinge Pin (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
9. 06:20 AM - Fl. VAF Fly-in (Ollie Washburn)
10. 09:16 AM - Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (dmedema@att.net)
11. 09:47 AM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (RGray67968@aol.com)
12. 09:47 AM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (Scott Bilinski)
13. 09:50 AM - Off Topic - Presidential Poll (Mickey Coggins)
14. 09:56 AM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (Pat Hatch)
15. 09:57 AM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
16. 10:27 AM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (Rob Prior)
17. 10:39 AM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (BELTEDAIR@aol.com)
18. 11:06 AM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (Jaye Murray and Scott Jackson)
19. 11:07 AM - Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (Bruce Anthony)
20. 11:21 AM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (Bob J)
21. 12:09 PM - Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float (Dean)
22. 12:11 PM - Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (Scott Bilinski)
23. 01:35 PM - Re: Off Topic - Presidential Poll (Jack Ford)
24. 01:39 PM - Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float (Charlie England)
25. 02:01 PM - Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float (Marty)
26. 02:18 PM - Re: Off Topic - Presidential Poll (Kysh)
27. 02:35 PM - Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float (rv6tc)
28. 02:38 PM - Radio Amplifier? (Randy Garrett)
29. 02:39 PM - Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float (Stein Bruch)
30. 02:58 PM - Re: Lights (Bill Dube)
31. 03:14 PM - leaving a floater (Kevin Shannon)
32. 03:45 PM - Re: leaving a floater (RobHickman@aol.com)
33. 04:14 PM - Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float (Marty)
34. 04:34 PM - donation (Wheeler North)
35. 05:06 PM - Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float (Charlie England)
36. 05:06 PM - Re: donation (Scott VanArtsdalen)
37. 05:14 PM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (Gabe A Ferrer)
38. 05:21 PM - Leather cleaning (wuz the old in&out question) (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
39. 07:05 PM - Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float (JOHN STARN)
40. 07:25 PM - Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (Chris W)
41. 07:49 PM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (Jeff Dowling)
42. 08:58 PM - Re: Alternative Fuels (Konrad Werner)
43. 10:07 PM - Re: Alternative Fuels (Chris W)
Message 1
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| Subject: | to firesleeve or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Van's catalogue suggests only certain fuel/oil lines should be firesleeved in that
orange hose. But I'm pretty sure I've seen where builders have almost firesleeved
just about everything from control cables to starter wires to small wire
bundles up there.
Do the control cables really break down over time without the firesleeve even if
you have those clamp on exhaust stack heat deflectors?
Also, my fuel line that runs from the fuel metering system up to the distributor
on top of the engine isn't firesleeved. I don't know why it came that way.
Should it be?
thanks,
lucky
do not archive
Van's catalogue suggests only certain fuel/oil lines should be firesleeved in that
orange hose. But I'm pretty sure I've seen where builders have almost firesleeved
just about everything from control cables to starter wires to small wire
bundles up there.
Do the control cables really break down over time without the firesleeve even if
you have those clamp on exhaust stack heat deflectors?
Also, my fuel line that runs from the fuel metering systemup to the distributor
on top of the engine isn't firesleeved. I don't know why it came that way. Should
it be?
thanks,
lucky
do not archive
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Take a good camera with the photo ship pilot being an experienced
formation pilot capable of hanging in during unusual attitudes and angle
of attacks.
Mike Stewart
Supported Subaru Bob Goodman as a photo ship doing tuft testing on his
rv-4. 2002 Sun 100 race class winner 160hp Subie engine. He now has a
Lycoming on it.
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Bertsch
Subject: RV-List: Tufting
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
I am going to use tufts of yarn around the cowling inlet to help
visualize the flow fields in that area. I'll then go fly formation and
get some nice videos and photos at various speeds. I figured someone in
this knowledgeable group has done this before and could offer some tips
based on their experience.
If so thanks...
Jeff Bertsch
RV-4
www.lonestarsquadron.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Help with the RV-8 seat back |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
I am looking for a good set of photos of the seat back, rear seat, for
an 8. plans and parts have confused me to the brink of migraine.
Please help. I cant figure out what need to be removed from the side
support rails at the top where they meet the fiberglass, how the
fiberglass attaches to the seatback at that undetermined angle, which
part of the seat other than the fiberglass flange touches the fuse. Etc.
Thanks for your help.
Michael Stewart
S8
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: to firesleeve or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: to firesleeve or not
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> Van's catalogue suggests only certain fuel/oil lines should be firesleeved
in that orange hose. But I'm pretty sure I've seen where builders have
almost firesleeved just about everything from control cables to starter
wires to small wire bundles up there.
>
> Do the control cables really break down over time without the firesleeve
even if you have those clamp on exhaust stack heat deflectors?
>
> Also, my fuel line that runs from the fuel metering system up to the
distributor on top of the engine isn't firesleeved. I don't know why it
came that way. Should it be?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
> do not archive
>
> Van's catalogue suggests only certain fuel/oil lines should be firesleeved
in that orange hose. But I'm pretty sure I've seen where builders have
almost firesleeved just about everything from control cables to starter
wires to small wire bundles up there.
>
> Do the control cables really break down over time without the firesleeve
even if you have those clamp on exhaust stack heat deflectors?
>
> Also, my fuel line that runs from the fuel metering systemup to the
distributor on top of the engine isn't firesleeved. I don't know why it came
that way. Should it be?
>
> thanks,
> lucky
> do not archive
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Help with the RV-8 seat back |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Ahh, replying to myself.
Thanks to Kevin Horton For the quick response and the pictures he
uploaded to his very cool website.
Thanks Kevin.
Photo's here.
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/gallery/view_album.php?set_albu
mName=album13
Turns out the yoyo builder in question (me) was trying to put the
fiberglass on the forward side of the seatback instead of the back side.
Duh, no wonder it would not fit. What a dope:) A picture is an amazing
fog removal tool.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart,
Michael (ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RV-List: Help with the RV-8 seat back
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
I am looking for a good set of photos of the seat back, rear seat, for
an 8. plans and parts have confused me to the brink of migraine.
Please help. I cant figure out what need to be removed from the side
support rails at the top where they meet the fiberglass, how the
fiberglass attaches to the seatback at that undetermined angle, which
part of the seat other than the fiberglass flange touches the fuse. Etc.
Thanks for your help.
Michael Stewart
S8
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Jeff Dowling wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>How about some Walmart specials for 10 bucks. Thats essentially what the
>Duckworks is anyway. You can get the redneck pickup truck rollover
>rectangular halogen 50watt lights from Wallyworld for 20 bucks for the pair.
>You have to make up the housing with spare aluminum. It will help alot if
>you can look at someone elses. You can bend some plexi on your own or just
>by it from Vans. I have them on both wings and they work fine.
>
>Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>140 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jim & Kathy McChesney" <rvtach@highstream.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>forged HELO
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim & Kathy McChesney
>><rvtach@highstream.net>
>>
>>List-
>>
>>I'm looking at my wings and debating between the Duckworks HID leading
>>edge landing light ($450 for one light from Van's) and the CreativAir
>>wingtip halogen landing light ($120 for a pair- one in each wingtip).
>>Any discussion of the advantages of one or the other would be helpful.
>>Also any factors favoring right wing vs left wing installation if I
>>choose a single light? I'm thinking that illuminating the driver's
>>side of the taxiway would be a good choice but I've seen several side by
>>side RVs with the light in the right wing.
>>
>>Thanks in advance for any info.
>>Jim McChesney
>>7A-QB wings and fuse
>>
>>
I saw the exact same thing at Auto-Zone for $18.
I ordered one from Duck and made the other one myself. Duckworth parts
are very nicely made. and well worth the cost, but if you have more time
than money, it is not hard to make, just takes some time... Van has the
lens for about $12. I ordered it with another order to save on some
shipping.
phil in Illinois
Message 7
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| Subject: | Help with the RV-8 seat back |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>I am looking for a good set of photos of the seat back, rear seat, for
>an 8. plans and parts have confused me to the brink of migraine.
>
>Please help. I cant figure out what need to be removed from the side
>support rails at the top where they meet the fiberglass, how the
>fiberglass attaches to the seatback at that undetermined angle, which
>part of the seat other than the fiberglass flange touches the fuse. Etc.
>
>
>Thanks for your help.
>
>
>Michael Stewart
>
Some very marginal pics here on my webpage:
http://geocities.com/CapeCanaveral/Hangar/9656/fuselage6.html
Fiberglass top contacts the bulkhead and the side channels basically don't!
Trim the tops of the channels to blend into the glass top piece and trim at
the bottom if/as needed to clear the floor when seat is swung forward for
baggage access. Trim top contour of the glass to clear the canopy handle
too. Trim opposite side in a symmetrical fashion for best appearance. Top
attaches to seat back side channels with a few rivets through channels,
using a piece of alu on the shop head side so rivets don't crush through the
glass. (This is how I did it, YMMV.)
I also highly recommend using DJ Lauritson's plans for a seat bottom pan.
It improves the angle of the seat cushion and provides a neato storage space
under it. Pics of my seat pan are on the webpage too.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 8
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| Subject: | Bending Hinge Pin |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Scott -
Try this neat little tool from the RC world.
Harry Higley's Wire Benders.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=wire+bender&FVPROFIL++
If the link fails, try towerhobbies.com, part number LXL787.
Neal
RV-7 N8ZG (tanks)
>
Anyone care to share the best method for accurately bending piano hinge
pins?
Thanks,
Scott
<
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
NOTE: To all listers within range. This SAT.(NOV 6th) is the fall Fl. VAF RV fly-in
at Love's Landing Airpark featuring Ollie's FAMOUS Bar-BQ pork.
Place: Love's Ldg Airpark (97FL). On sectional chart. 21nm 126* Ocf VOR. Check
Doug Reeve's calendar and AIR NAV airport data.
N 28-57-43 W 081-53-29
Time: Coffee and donuts for early birds and lunch @ noon.
Food: Bar-BQ Pork, Turkey, Hamburgers, Hotdogs and all the fixins.
Contributions: We are asking $5/plate for all you can eat as long as the food lasts.
Forums: There are no forums, just everybody talking about their love of flying
and RVs.
We have put in a request for good weather and hope to see the airpark full of RVs.
NOTE--This is a private airpark so landing is at your own risk. 18/36 3700
ft.
Do not archive and thanks.
Ollie 6A
Message 10
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| Subject: | Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
frame that would swing up for entry and exit and would fold down
as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
the seats out of the way?
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
frame that wouldswing up for entry and exit and would fold down
as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
the seats out of the way?
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: RGray67968@aol.com
Hi Doug,
My thoughts on the 'seat thing'......get over it!! Do something
'constructive' on your plane instead.
OK.....here's the other side....I can (and do) EASILY get in/out of my RV6
without stepping on my seats.....and, so do my passengers. If you don't have the
handles on the roll bar then put them in......Rich Meske at aircraftextras
sells a bolt on version......they are worth every penny. I give my passengers a
quickie brief on how to get in/out and it's a NON ISSUE. 'IF' you get someone
that just can't seem to figure it out then just let 'em stand on the seat and
get in......your seats will be no worse for it.......toss a towel on the seat
if you must. My seats look like brand new after 2+ years of flying and 375hrs
of almost always having a passenger.
Move on Doug!!
Rick in Ohio at the Buffalo Farm
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/OhioValleyRVators/
do not archive
I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
frame that would swing up for entry and exit and would fold down
as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
the seats out of the way?
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I have an 8, and the problem exist here to. I just covered the seats with a
dark fabric and tell everyone to go ahead an step on them. The plane is one
year old this month with about 200 hours. Seats look just fine. They are
the Oregon Aero seats upholstered by a local car upholstery shop with
standard cloth material glued to the seats to follow the seat contour.
At 05:15 PM 11/2/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
>I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
>struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
>damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
>includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
>the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
>would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
>getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
>This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
>this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
>I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
>seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
>This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
>frame that would swing up for entry and exit and would fold down
>as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
>maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
>not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
>and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
>weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
>issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
>give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>
>So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
>your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
>way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
>the seats out of the way?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Medema
>RV-6A N276DM
>
><!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
><!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
>I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
>struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
>damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
>includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
>the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
>would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
>getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
>This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
>this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
>I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
>seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
>This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
>frame that wouldswing up for entry and exit and would fold down
>as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
>maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
>not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
>and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
>weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
>issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
>give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>
>So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
>your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
>way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
>the seats out of the way?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Medema
>RV-6A N276DM
>
><!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 13
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| Subject: | Off Topic - Presidential Poll |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
In the spirit of election day in the USA, I've put a poll
on my website (http://www.rv8.ch/) asking who you would
like to become the next president of the United States.
If you participate, you can tell your friends that you
voted twice!
It will be interesting to see how the RV community sees
this election.
Best regards,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Doug,
This may not be very elegant, but I keep a couple of beach towls on the
seats for getting in and out. After I'm in I will throw them in the baggage
area or if it's just a short flight, just leave them there.
Pat Hatch
RV-4
RV-6
RV-7
Vero Beach, FL
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9)
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
> struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
> damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
> includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
> the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
> would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
> getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
> This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
> this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
> I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
> seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
> This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
> frame that would swing up for entry and exit and would fold down
> as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
> maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
> not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
> and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
> weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
> issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
> give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>
> So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
> your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
> way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
> the seats out of the way?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM
>
> <!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
> <!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
> I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
> struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
> damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
> includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
> the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
> would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
> getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
> This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
> this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
> I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
> seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
> This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
> frame that wouldswing up for entry and exit and would fold down
> as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
> maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
> not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
> and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
> weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
> issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
> give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>
> So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
> your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
> way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
> the seats out of the way?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM
>
> <!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Doug after 1300 hours of stepping in and out of my 6A and usually with a
passenger, on expensive leather seats, there is only one solution IMHO,
just step on them.
Many folks have tried to climb in and out w/o stepping on them and it
urks me cause I tell them to stand right on the seat, but still they try
not to and it is dangerous to try and get in w/o stepping on the seat. I
have seen many an awkward scenario in my plane from trying not to step
on the seat. You can get hurt, and on the slider, it puts the fiberglass
strip across the top at tremendous risk.
Bottom line, just step on em, and don't worry about it. You can not tell
that literally hundreds of people have stepped on them.
Good luck.
Mike Stewart
6A Flying
S8 Fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dmedema@att.net
Subject: RV-List: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9)
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
frame that would swing up for entry and exit and would fold down
as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
the seats out of the way?
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
frame that wouldswing up for entry and exit and would fold down
as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
the seats out of the way?
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 15:59 31/12/1969 dmedema@att.net wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
> I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
> struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
> damaging the seats.
Here's two suggestions i've seen in use on other homebuilts, RV's included.
1. Sew or velcro a flap of fabric to the front of your seat, that is about
1.5x the depth of the seat, and just as wide. Make it from Canvas, or some
other durable material. To get in, flip the flap over the seat, stand on
it, and swing your body into place. Before dropping the last few inches to
the seat, pull the flap forward and hang it down to the floor in front of
the seat. That way you can always sit on a clean seat, and have a
protective flap for entry/exit.
2. If you aren't installing the armrest, you can have a nice gap between
your front seats. It's well supported, and about exactly the right size
for a foot to stand on the seat pan *next* to the cushion while you get
your weight over the sill. One foot goes in the seat pan between the
seats, the other goes on the floor in front of the spar. Then grab the
canopy bow, move your seat-pan foot to the floor, and lower yourself down.
Both methods, once you've been shown how to use them, work very well.
-Rob Prior
rv7 "at" b4.ca
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: BELTEDAIR@aol.com
Many years ago the Erocoupe had a bottom seat cushion with a flap attached to
the front lower edge, when getting in or out the flap covered the seat then
folded down out of the way. It worked then and it works now.
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jaye Murray and Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
My 6 has electric flaps, which leaves the space between the seats clear.
It's easy to put a foot right on the metal between the seat cushions, sit on
the crossmember, then pull your other leg in and put that foot on the floor,
then lower yourself down while putting the first foot forward onto the
floor.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9)
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
> struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
> damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
> includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
> the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
> would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
> getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
> This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
> this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
> I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
> seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
> This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
> frame that would swing up for entry and exit and would fold down
> as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
> maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
> not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
> and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
> weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
> issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
> give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>
> So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
> your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
> way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
> the seats out of the way?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM
>
> <!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
> <!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
> I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
> struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
> damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
> includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
> the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
> would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
> getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
> This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
> this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
> I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
> seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
> This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
> frame that wouldswing up for entry and exit and would fold down
> as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
> maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
> not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
> and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
> weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
> issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
> give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>
> So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
> your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
> way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
> the seats out of the way?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM
>
> <!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Anthony" <bruce.anthony@holidaycompanies.com>
I wouldn't look to ethanol based fuels to be the replacement for leaded aviation
gasoline soon. My company has been marketing E-85 (85% ethanol and 15% gasoline)
automotive fuel in Minnesota for several years now. While demand is increasing
(and the fuel has an octane rating of about 110) E-85 is still a minor
player in the fuel market.
Some of the disincentives to alcohol aviation fuels include:
1. Engine compatibility - I suspect most A/C engines will require modification
to use E-85. Only so-called "flex fueled" cars can use it now.
2. Fueling Infrastructure - don't look for it soon at an FBO near you.
3. Economics - needs a stiff tax subsidy to be competitive with gasoline though
in the A/C market this is less of an issue because 100LL is more expensive than
auto fuel. It also has a lower BTU content than gasoline (need more ethanol
fuel to go the same distance).
4. Quality - ethanol absorbs water in storage. To a certain extent this is a
safety margin you don't get with straight fuel, but absorb enough water and your
engine doesn't run so good.
5. Supply - country needs more ethanol manufacturing capacity, especially if California
sucks up the supply to replace MTBE (another lead substitute that has
found great disfavor because of air and groundwater pollution problems). While
this can be dealt with, it won't happen overnight.
On the other hand, tetraethyl lead, the lead additive in 100LL, is a potent neurotoxin.
Another poster pointed out that the industry will come up with a good substitue
for leaded fuel when the need arises. I agree with him. In any event, fuel
is one of the reasons I'm thinking of a Suburu in my RV-9A down the road. Our
cars burn a mix of 10% ethanol in gasoline here in Minnesota and it works just
fine.
Bruce Anthony
Rosemount, MN
RV-9A, Wings
Do Not Archive
Message 20
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|
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=beta; d=gmail.com;
b=VuKY4eoxmn0/YGyTHk82E50aCPdjUjaGAXSYnSychoRNy9XBNFcK2F4fUedHPKzwC22ZQvOlrkIJkwt3oGjk5R+0TdpCdYryIIOXhOz4o0Y2zBJStbhysOzBiuXF9eFiS5WIQEUuh+tcXutPwPqHUItSwgU8akWKo2fBxDYff/cReceived:
by 10.54.33.47 with SMTP id g47mr97026wrg;
Tue, 02 Nov 2004 11:20:45 -0800 (PST)
| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
Ditto. 600 hours stepping on the DJ vinyl seats and mine still look
new. I clean the seats maybe twice a year with upholstery cleaner,
only takes a few minutes. Once in a while I'll have an asphalt/tar
stain that just takes a little solvent to clean up, no big deal.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
> Doug after 1300 hours of stepping in and out of my 6A and usually with a
> passenger, on expensive leather seats, there is only one solution IMHO,
> just step on them.
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
RV Listers
As a farmer in an early life, and a retired Aeronautical Engineer now who
helps a nephew in corn and soybean planting and harvest, I would like to
point out a gross error in the "science.howstuffworks" extract. The
quantity of fossil fuel required to plant, grow, and harvest an acre of corn
is exaggerated by at least a factor of ten. The real world number is 10 to
12 gallons per acre total. Sort of makes a person wonder about the validity
of the rest of the data.
Dean Van Winkle
RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
----- Original Message -----
From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel senders to float or not to float
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 11/1/2004 2:41:38 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> rv_8pilot@hotmail.com writes:
>
> I've always thought it was foolish to think we could seriously consider
> ethanol a significant source of fuel. Wondering just many acres it takes
to
>
> produce a barrel of ethanol, I did a search... here's what I found.
>
> http://science.howstuffworks.com/question707.htm
>
> Interesting facts from the above link:
>
> 1. It takes 26.1 pounds of corn to make 1 gallon of ethanol
>
> 2. you need about 140 gallons (530 liters) of fossil fuel to plant, grow
> and harvest an acre of corn
>
> 3. The final cost of the fuel-grade ethanol is about $2.49 per gallon
> (corrected for $2/gal gasoline)
>
>
> If you think that things will go this way, invest in Archer Daniels
Midland,
> supermarket to the world? Paul Harvey is one of their biggest fans.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
1. Engine compatibility
I cant speak for every one but the way my engine is set up right
now I would
only have to check to see if the selector valve is compatible and
enlarge the main
jet. Other than that I am good to go.
2. Fueling Infrastructure:
I think this could be the biggest problem of them all.
3. Economics:
Yes we are only concerned about the A/C market.
Yes it has lower BTU's but also puts out about 10% more power at
the same power settings.
So you could throttle back and not use as much. The number I hear
is about 12% more GPH.
4. Quality: AGE-85 has been diluted with 10% water and the engine ran
fine. Thats a lot of water!
5. Supply:
I know nothing about.
There are already good alternatives out there for engines with 8.5:1
compression or less. Now throw in the high performance stuff with turbo
chargers and such and there is no fuel that will work for both. The problem
is the High performance stuff uses about 75% of the av-gas produced. So us
little people are big in numbers but small in consumption. The word is that
there will NOT be 2 different types fuel.........you think fuel is
expensive now!!
Just want to let everyone know I got my info by calling and talking to the
program director
Dr. Dennis Helder South Dakota State University a few months back.
At 01:12 PM 11/2/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bruce Anthony"
><bruce.anthony@holidaycompanies.com>
>
>I wouldn't look to ethanol based fuels to be the replacement for leaded
>aviation gasoline soon. My company has been marketing E-85 (85% ethanol
>and 15% gasoline) automotive fuel in Minnesota for several years
>now. While demand is increasing (and the fuel has an octane rating of
>about 110) E-85 is still a minor player in the fuel market.
>
>Some of the disincentives to alcohol aviation fuels include:
>
> - I suspect most A/C engines will require modification to use
> E-85. Only so-called "flex fueled" cars can use it now.
>2. Fueling Infrastructure - don't look for it soon at an FBO near you.
>3. Economics - needs a stiff tax subsidy to be competitive with gasoline
>though in the A/C market this is less of an issue because 100LL is more
>expensive than auto fuel. It also has a lower BTU content than gasoline
>(need more ethanol fuel to go the same distance).
>4. Quality - ethanol absorbs water in storage. To a certain extent this
>is a safety margin you don't get with straight fuel, but absorb enough
>water and your engine doesn't run so good.
> - country needs more ethanol manufacturing capacity, especially if
> California sucks up the supply to replace MTBE (another lead substitute
> that has found great disfavor because of air and groundwater pollution
> problems). While this can be dealt with, it won't happen overnight.
>
>On the other hand, tetraethyl lead, the lead additive in 100LL, is a
>potent neurotoxin.
>
>Another poster pointed out that the industry will come up with a good
>substitue for leaded fuel when the need arises. I agree with him. In any
>event, fuel is one of the reasons I'm thinking of a Suburu in my RV-9A
>down the road. Our cars burn a mix of 10% ethanol in gasoline here in
>Minnesota and it works just fine.
>
>
>Bruce Anthony
>Rosemount, MN
>RV-9A, Wings
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Presidential Poll |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
What happened to Michael Badnarik, the Libertarion candidate? He was
outpolling the dangit out of Nader the dictator.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: Off Topic - Presidential Poll
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> In the spirit of election day in the USA, I've put a poll
> on my website (http://www.rv8.ch/) asking who you would
> like to become the next president of the United States.
>
> If you participate, you can tell your friends that you
> voted twice!
>
> It will be interesting to see how the RV community sees
> this election.
>
> Best regards,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
After the 1st batch, you no longer need the fossil fuel at all.
And no Marines will be endangered to produce ethanol; surely that's
worth something...
Charlie
Dean wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
>
>RV Listers
>
>As a farmer in an early life, and a retired Aeronautical Engineer now who
>helps a nephew in corn and soybean planting and harvest, I would like to
>point out a gross error in the "science.howstuffworks" extract. The
>quantity of fossil fuel required to plant, grow, and harvest an acre of corn
>is exaggerated by at least a factor of ten. The real world number is 10 to
>12 gallons per acre total. Sort of makes a person wonder about the validity
>of the rest of the data.
>
>Dean Van Winkle
>RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel senders to float or not to float
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 11/1/2004 2:41:38 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>>rv_8pilot@hotmail.com writes:
>>
>>I've always thought it was foolish to think we could seriously consider
>>ethanol a significant source of fuel. Wondering just many acres it takes
>>
>>
>to
>
>
>>produce a barrel of ethanol, I did a search... here's what I found.
>>
>>http://science.howstuffworks.com/question707.htm
>>
>>Interesting facts from the above link:
>>
>>1. It takes 26.1 pounds of corn to make 1 gallon of ethanol
>>
>>2. you need about 140 gallons (530 liters) of fossil fuel to plant, grow
>>and harvest an acre of corn
>>
>>3. The final cost of the fuel-grade ethanol is about $2.49 per gallon
>>(corrected for $2/gal gasoline)
>>
>>
>>If you think that things will go this way, invest in Archer Daniels
>>
>>
>Midland,
>
>
>>supermarket to the world? Paul Harvey is one of their biggest fans.
>>
>>GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
>>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Fuel senders to float or not to float |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" <martorious@earthlink.net>
How much ethanol can one acre be expected to produce?
Marty
Dean wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
>
>RV Listers
>
>As a farmer in an early life, and a retired Aeronautical Engineer now who
>helps a nephew in corn and soybean planting and harvest, I would like to
>point out a gross error in the "science.howstuffworks" extract. The
>quantity of fossil fuel required to plant, grow, and harvest an acre of
corn
>is exaggerated by at least a factor of ten. The real world number is 10 to
>12 gallons per acre total. Sort of makes a person wonder about the validity
>of the rest of the data.
>
>Dean Van Winkle
>RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel senders to float or not to float
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Off Topic - Presidential Poll |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kysh <vans-dragon@lapdragon.org>
As Jack Ford was saying:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
>
> What happened to Michael Badnarik, the Libertarion candidate? He was
> outpolling the dangit out of Nader the dictator.
He got mine.
-Kysh
do not archive
--
| 'Life begins at 120kias' - http://www.lapdragon.org/flying |
| CBR-F4 streetbike - http://www.lapdragon.org/cbr |
| 1968 Mustang fastback - http://www.lapdragon.org/mustang |
| Got 'nix? - http://www.infrastructure.org/ |
| KG6FOB - http://www.lapdragon.org/ham |
| Give blood: Play Hockey! http://www.unixdragon.com/ |
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float |
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
How do you figure? You still have to harvest, and turn the soil, then
re-seed. Not to mention spray for insects. Unless you are planning on
harvesting with mules......
Curious.
Keith
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel senders to float or not to float
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> After the 1st batch, you no longer need the fossil fuel at all.
>
> And no Marines will be endangered to produce ethanol; surely that's
> worth something...
>
> Charlie
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Radio Amplifier? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Garrett" <rgarrett@objectsciences.com>
Would a radio amplifier that could handle AM/SSB/FM (by design) also amplify
AM? Aviation radio is VHF AM. Could a ham radio amp be used to boost my
signal? I realize that VHF is line-of-sight, so power is not normally a
limiting factor. However, I often operate in areas with lots of
interference. I can hear ATC, but they sometimes can't hear me, so I'm
thinking a little more power might be a big help. Would there be any FCC
issues with doing this? I am a licensed ham, and the power out would be
considerably below what airline radios transmit.
Thanks,
Randy
RV-6A
430 hours
Message 29
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| Subject: | Fuel senders to float or not to float |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Assuming about 2.5 gallons per bushel & 120 bushels/acre for a nice/decent
crop,
then around 300 gallons.
Just my quick estimations....of course these numbers vay wildly because corn
crops can range from 100 to upwards of 200 bushels per acre in some parts of
the world.
Claimed "net gains" for ethanol range from 2:1 up to 10:1 (gallons of
ethanol produced for gallons of fossil fuel used).
No, I'm not a corn farmer, nor am I taking sides on this issue, just
presenting numbers I've seen. I only keep up on this because our state (MN)
is looking to mandate an increase in Ethanol from 10% up to 20% in our
gasoline.
Cheers,
Stein
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Marty
Subject: RE: RV-List: Fuel senders to float or not to float
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" <martorious@earthlink.net>
How much ethanol can one acre be expected to produce?
Marty
Dean wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net>
>
>RV Listers
>
>As a farmer in an early life, and a retired Aeronautical Engineer now who
>helps a nephew in corn and soybean planting and harvest, I would like to
>point out a gross error in the "science.howstuffworks" extract. The
>quantity of fossil fuel required to plant, grow, and harvest an acre of
corn
>is exaggerated by at least a factor of ten. The real world number is 10 to
>12 gallons per acre total. Sort of makes a person wonder about the validity
>of the rest of the data.
>
>Dean Van Winkle
>RV-9A Fuselage/Finish
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel senders to float or not to float
>
>
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
I'm writing from work.
I'm the guy that makes the LED position light kits (Bill VonDane sells
one
style of my LED position lights on his http://www.CreativAir.com website.)
A couple of folks on the list wanted to know more about the LED position
lights, and Bill VonDane's landing lights.
>>>> LED Position lights <<<<
So far, I have zero complaints about the LED position lights. I have sold
a bunch of them to a lot of different people, so the total lack of
complaints is a pretty good recommendation. Also, only a couple of folks
have had any questions/problems assembling the kits. This tells me that the
instructions are pretty good. When I get customer feedback, it is generally
something like, "Wow, these things are bright!"
>>>> CreativAir Landing lights <<<
I have installed Bill VonDane's landing lights on my wings and they put
out a bunch of light. Since I haven't built the fuselage yet, I can't give
any flight reports on the landing lights. :
)
Bill VonDane also makes a strobe kit. I haven't seen it myself, but I have
heard nothing negative about it. Seems to work just fine, so I am told.
Bill Dube'
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Message 31
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| Subject: | leaving a floater |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Shannon" <kshannon@seanet.com>
Looks like my question about using float type senders with the high tech
EFIS systems is answered as follows:
Works with Blue Mountain EFIS, plugs right in
Works with Grand Rapids System
Works with Vision Microsystems see below
I think I will just go with the old tried and true floaters then.
Nothing to calibrate or adapt. They will work just fine someday when we
are all flying around on corn squeezins too. Has anyone ever had a float
type sender fail in an RV?
Kevin Shannon
-----Original Message-----
From: Technical Support [mailto:support@visionmicrosystems.com]
Subject: RE: Fuel senders
Hello Kevin,
What system are you looking at? The VM1000C will work with floats.
Best Regards
David McCluskey
Technical Support
4151 Mitchell Way
Bellingham, WA 98226
(360) 714-8203
Fax (360) 714-8253
-----Original Message-----
From: Kevin Shannon [mailto:kshannon@seanet.com]
Subject: Fuel senders
Hi, will resistance float type senders work for fuel level? I already
have these in my tanks in an RV8
Thanks
Kevin Shannon
Superintendent
Severson Construction, LLC
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: leaving a floater |
--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
Kevin,
The ACS2002 engine monitor will work with Floats or Capacitance probes. I
had a float sendor fail in my RV-4 at 200 hours. I also know of a few others
around Portland, OR. that have had the floats fail. Mine and the others that
I have seen were the old style with the metal housings so hopefully the new
plastic ones are better.
Rob Hickman
N401 RV-4
N402 RV-10 (Under Construction)
Message 33
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| Subject: | Fuel senders to float or not to float |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Marty" <martorious@earthlink.net>
Ok this is what I've discovered in about 20 minutes by googling.
Lets start with the tractor.
On average, new John Deere tractors that are of the same type used in
Agriculture around here (Central Indiana, we grow A LOT of corn here!) use
roughly 15 gal/hr. And I would estimate they travel at approx 5 mph while
they work the fields. So we're talking around 3 gal per mile.
Most implements used around here are close to 30 feet wide, so that makes
158,400 square feet of field tilled per linear mile traveled. An acre is
approx 209 feet on a side, or 43,560 square feet to be more precise (at
least this is the figure I found on the web.) So 158,400 divided by 43,560
yields 3.636363 acres per linear mile, for roughly .825 gallons of fuel per
acre for a single pass.
Now unless I'm WAY off in my estimates (anyone more knowledgeable feel free
to chime in) or my math skills suddenly took a vacation, I don't think we're
looking at much more than 12-13 gallons of fossil fuel per acre, including
allowances for grain trucks to haul the harvest to the grain towers and for
herbicide and insecticide spraying (if you've never seen one of those
sprayers, they look like a very large ATV with spray booms that are at least
20 feet to each side and travel through a field at close to 30 miles per
hour! Quite a site to see one racing through a recently sown corn field.
My kids get a kick out of the 'overgrown 4-wheelers'!)
Marty
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rv6tc
Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel senders to float or not to float
--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
How do you figure? You still have to harvest, and turn the soil, then
re-seed. Not to mention spray for insects. Unless you are planning on
harvesting with mules......
Curious.
Keith
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Matronics 2004 Email List Fund Raiser [PLEASE READ]
Tuesday's Schedule
wake up
pee
vote - thank you Veterans
donate to email lists - thank you Matt
take nap
fart - or go to work, whichever seems like more fun
finish oil change and post-maintenance test fly RV
eat
fall asleep - dream about flying RV - not as much fun, but costs less
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
When you drill for oil, you use oil to run the drill.
When you farm for ethanol, you (can) farm with ethanol.
Not saying it will happen tomorrow, but the petro-economy didn't happen
overnight either.
FWIW, you can farm the 1st crop right now with bio- diesel.
Charlie
rv6tc wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "rv6tc" <rv6tc@myawai.com>
>
>How do you figure? You still have to harvest, and turn the soil, then
>re-seed. Not to mention spray for insects. Unless you are planning on
>harvesting with mules......
>
>Curious.
>
>Keith
>
>do not archive
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Charlie England" <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Fuel senders to float or not to float
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>>
>>After the 1st batch, you no longer need the fossil fuel at all.
>>
>>And no Marines will be endangered to produce ethanol; surely that's
>>worth something...
>>
>>Charlie
>>
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Man you live my dream life!
Please do not archive that.
Wheeler North wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>Subject: RV-List: Matronics 2004 Email List Fund Raiser [PLEASE READ]
>
>
>Tuesday's Schedule
>
>wake up
>pee
>vote - thank you Veterans
>donate to email lists - thank you Matt
>take nap
>fart - or go to work, whichever seems like more fun
>finish oil change and post-maintenance test fly RV
>eat
>fall asleep - dream about flying RV - not as much fun, but costs less
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gabe A Ferrer" <ferrergm@bellsouth.net>
Passengers in my RV6 step on my leather cushions when getting in or out. No problem.
Just make sure that they are not wearing high heels.
I don't need to step on the cushions getting in or out.
I place my butt on the top of the back rest, swing my legs in and let my calves
rest on the forward edge of the buttom cushion. I then slide down with my right
hand initially holding on to the back rest and my left hand holding on to the
longeron.
To get out I reverse the procedure.
Gabe A Ferrer
RV6 N2GX 137 hours
South Florida
ferrergm@bellsouth.net
cell: 561 758 8894
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Leather cleaning (wuz the old in&out question) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/02/2004 1:22:44 PM Central Standard Time,
rocketbob@gmail.com writes:
600 hours stepping on the DJ vinyl seats and mine still look
new. I clean the seats maybe twice a year with upholstery cleaner,
only takes a few minutes.
>>>>>>
Before I bug DJ or ruin her beautiful leather seats, has anyone tried those
new Armor-all leather wipes?
Mark - do not archive
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel senders to float or not to float |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
WHAT ? ? ? & create all those "Greenhouse" and Global
Warming...ah...ah...ah...
GASES 8*) KABONG HRII N561FS
Do Not Archive
> How do you figure? You still have to harvest, and turn the soil, then
> re-seed. Not to mention spray for insects. Unless you are planning on
> harvesting with mules......
>> After the 1st batch, you no longer need the fossil fuel at all.
>>
surely that's
>> worth something...
>>
>> Charlie
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Scott Bilinski wrote:
>Yes it has lower BTU's but also puts out about 10% more power at
>the same power settings.
>
>
I'm confused. How can it have less BTU's and still put out more power?
BTU is an energy unit and Power is Energy over time. So if ethanol has
fewer BTU's per gallon, how could you possibly get 10% more power at the
same GPH flow?
This is probably a bad estimate, and probably changes a lot with scale.
In the model airplane world if you have a big bird you want to convert
from a nitro-methane engine to a gas engine, the general rule of thumb
is you only need half as much fuel by volume.
Now diesel seems the way to go, more BTU's per lbs and more lbs per
gallon... it's like getting long range tanks for free. Of course there
is the whole needing a new engine part. I just hope by the time I get
building Deltahawk or some other manufacture will have a 180+ hp diesel
with all the bugs worked out.
Chris W
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
http://thewishzone.com
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Its easy if you install a couple of handles on the rollover bar. I got some
computer main frame aluminum pull handles from someone on the list. Easy to
install and I will never have one without them.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
140 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: <dmedema@att.net>
Subject: RV-List: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9)
> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
> I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
> struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
> damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
> includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
> the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
> would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
> getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
> This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
> this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
> I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
> seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
> This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
> frame that would swing up for entry and exit and would fold down
> as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
> maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
> not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
> and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
> weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
> issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
> give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>
> So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
> your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
> way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
> the seats out of the way?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM
>
> <!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
> <!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
> I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
> struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
> damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
> includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
> the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
> would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
> getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
> This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
> this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
> I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
> seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
> This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
> frame that wouldswing up for entry and exit and would fold down
> as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
> maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
> not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
> and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
> weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
> issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
> give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>
> So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
> your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
> way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
> the seats out of the way?
>
> Thanks,
> Doug Medema
> RV-6A N276DM
>
> <!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>
>
>
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Konrad Werner" <klwerner@comcast.net>
Dear Chris,
>>...more BTU's per lbs and more lbs per gallon... it's like getting long range
tanks for free...<<
This does sound like a double dipping winner, when in reality it is more like a
even out kind of compensator, no?
More LBS / GAL more weight to carry per gallon of fuel.
More BTU / LBS more energy per gallon to carry said weight.
Bottom line: More energy content to carry the higher weight penalty maybe even?
But maybe I am confused and see this all wrong? Am I wrong?
Konrad
>> Now diesel seems the way to go, more BTU's per lbs and more lbs per
gallon... it's like getting long range tanks for free. Of course there
is the whole needing a new engine part. I just hope by the time I get
building Deltahawk or some other manufacture will have a 180+ hp diesel
with all the bugs worked out.
Chris W. <<
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Konrad Werner wrote:
>This does sound like a double dipping winner, when in reality it is more like
a even out kind of compensator, no?
>More LBS / GAL more weight to carry per gallon of fuel.
>More BTU / LBS more energy per gallon to carry said weight.
>Bottom line: More energy content to carry the higher weight penalty maybe even?
>
>But maybe I am confused and see this all wrong? Am I wrong?
>
>
Unless I understand it wrong, and I don't think I do, you are reading it
wrong. Think of it this way. . .
10 lbs of diesel will take you farther than 10 lbs of LL100. Here we
have a win.
you can fit more lbs of diesel in the same size tank than you can
LL100. Win some more.
So it is a win win situation In the first case we get more range per
pound of flying weight. In the second we effectively get a larger
tank. With the numbers Deltahawk has published, an RV7 could have a
range of nearly 1,000 statute miles.
Chris W
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
http://thewishzone.com
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