Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:36 AM - Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) (Jeff Dowling)
2. 05:45 AM - Ammeter question (bertrv6@highstream.net)
3. 05:46 AM - Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (RV_8 Pilot)
4. 06:05 AM - climb speed? (Scott Bilinski)
5. 06:19 AM - Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (Scott Bilinski)
6. 07:51 AM - Re: EFIS Horizon (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
7. 08:24 AM - Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (Scott Bilinski)
8. 08:28 AM - Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (Jim Jewell)
9. 09:32 AM - "What's my Contribution used for?" [PLEASE READ!] (Matt Dralle)
10. 09:49 AM - Re: EFIS Horizon (N13eer@aol.com)
11. 10:35 AM - Re: climb speed? (Denis Walsh)
12. 10:44 AM - Re: EFIS Horizon (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
13. 12:48 PM - Re: Stupid Question... (Matt Johnson)
14. 01:28 PM - Re: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Ross Mickey)
15. 01:51 PM - Re: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Eustace Bowhay)
16. 01:55 PM - Re: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid local send... (HalBenjamin@aol.com)
17. 04:22 PM - Re: Stupid Question... (Matt Johnson)
18. 04:47 PM - Re: climb speed? (Randy Lervold)
19. 06:47 PM - Garmin 196 mounting... (Tom)
20. 07:30 PM - Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (Jack Ford)
21. 07:46 PM - Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (Scott Jackson)
22. 08:00 PM - Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) (Vanremog@aol.com)
23. 08:47 PM - Re: Garmin 196 mounting... (Larygagnon@aol.com)
24. 10:34 PM - Re: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid local send... (HCRV6@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Do a google search for computer hardware. Im sure you can find these
handles. They even take -3 bolts.
The hardest part of the installation was drilling through the front and back
of the rollover in a straight line at the right angle so you dont drill into
the windshield yet still have enough room grab the handle. Not very
dificult, just take your time and start with a small dia bit and work your
way up. The aft holes (on the cockpit side) will then be enlarged so the
handle will slide through them into the rollover. The front holes only have
to be large enough to accept the -3.
To get in and out, you put your right heel inbetween the seats over the spar
while grabbing both handles. Then swing your left leg all the way in to the
rudder pedals. Getting out is just as easy. One motion, right heel between
seats and pull yourself up and out while swinging your left leg out onto the
wing. Typing this was a lot harder than doing it :)
My list of "must haves" so far:
1. Koger sun shade
2. Enter/exit handles
3. Altitude hold a/p
Of course I can add alot to that list but so far these are the most
significant. I purchased the tilt up aftermarket upgrade for my slider but
havent installed it yet. Im guessing it will be added to the list.
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
140 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "McFarland, Randy" <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "McFarland, Randy"
> <Randy.McFarland@novellus.com>
>
> I'm not very good at searching the archives. Can someone tell me who sells
> the handles for the roll bar, and the best spacing for easiest use?
> Thank you
> Randy
> 7A Aft canopy skirts
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jeff Dowling [mailto:shempdowling@earthlink.net]
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9)
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Its easy if you install a couple of handles on the rollover bar. I got
> some
>
> computer main frame aluminum pull handles from someone on the list. Easy
> to
>
> install and I will never have one without them.
>
> Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 140 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <dmedema@att.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Entering and exiting an RV-6 (or 7 or 9)
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>>
>> I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
>> struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
>> damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
>> includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
>> the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
>> would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
>> getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
>> This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
>> this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
>> I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
>> seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
>> This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
>> frame that would swing up for entry and exit and would fold down
>> as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
>> maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
>> not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
>> and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
>> weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
>> issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
>> give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>>
>> So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
>> your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
>> way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
>> the seats out of the way?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Doug Medema
>> RV-6A N276DM
>>
>> <!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>>
>>
>> <!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
>> I've been thinking about the seats for my RV-6A and have
>> struggled with the issue of getting in and out of the plane without
>> damaging the seats. It seems like the only way to get in and out
>> includes standing on the seat. I've thought about trying to make
>> the seat in two pieces, kind of a front and back part. The front
>> would be easily removable so you could step on metal while
>> getting in and then replace the front part after you're in the plane.
>> This doesn't seem real practical to me though. I was discussing
>> this with my wife last night and she mentioned "jump seats." Now
>> I have a Ford Ranger pickup extended cab and it has two small
>> seats that fold into the sides of the truck behind the main seat.
>> This got me thinking about the possibility of having some kind of
>> frame that wouldswing up for entry and exit and would fold down
>> as you sat on it. I think I would try to make it hinged somehow,
>> maybe like a theater seat, possibly with a spring to raise it when
>> not loaded. When down, the loads would be on the airplane floor
>> and not on the moving seat frame. I realize this will add some
>> weight, the challenge would be to minimize it. It also has some
>> issues with moving the seat back fore-and-aft, but I might just
>> give up that feature and keep the seat backs in one position.
>>
>> So, how are you people, who have spent quite a bit of money on
>> your nice seats, keeping them nice? Do you move them out of the
>> way or just step on them? Any unique ideas out there for moving
>> the seats out of the way?
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Doug Medema
>> RV-6A N276DM
>>
>> <!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Ammeter question |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
Questions to the electronics experts; After I had to recharge my
concord battery, my ammeter, shows now, charge 20, every time I turn
the master switch on.
Everything was ok, until I used a 16 amp. charger, some one had
told me that I should use at least 16 amps to charge the battery.
I presume, the instrument (a van's one) is no good. I bought a new
one but I had not connected it yet. Is any reason not to do that?
What could have caused that?
Thanks
Bert
rv6a
Do Not Archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
The relatively low energy density of alchohols concerns me enough, but what
about corrosion with alchohol fuels? Are any additional acids formed in the
combustion process which might reduce the life of engine components? Sounds
like a search/discussion topic for the day.
Until someone can come up with another energy storage and conversion
technology (if I could give an example, I wouldn't be sitting at this desk)
I think diesel should be the next large step.
2 cents
do not archive
Bryan
>
>Re-alternative fuels,
>
>Having read several rv-list alternate fuel threads over the years. I am
>left
>with the impression that some number of individuals think that switching to
>alternative fuels simply requires some means of supplying the fuel of
>choice
>to the engine and then making a few simple external adjustments to ignition
>timing, carburetor etc.
>
>At the design stage, getting the best combination of performance,
>reliability, utility and power from any individual internal combustion
>engine design one of the first things to establish is the intended choice
>of
>fuel.
>Of course a careful examination of the intended application among many
>other
>things is also required.
>
>Various tolerances, Ignition timing, fuel flow rates, compression rates,
>combustion chamber shape, camshaft design, (timing ,lift and duration etc),
>bore and stroke, structural materials choices, lubricants, porting (both
>exhaust and intake), and cooling requirements will all play a role in
>acquiring the acceptable overall characteristics of the final design.
>Needless to say cost restraints play a roll as well.
>The list is actually longer than stated here but the general idea is at
>least indicated.
>
>One should not expect to be able to change fuels with an existing engine
>design without re-examining at least some combination of the above basic
>considerations.
>Swapping fuels into an unchanged existing engine design will result in
>trade
>offs that will not likely adequately satisfy all the expectations.
>
>Designing or re-designing fuels to fit successful existing engine designs
>without losses in performance, reliability, utility or power is also
>fraught
>with its own pandora's box of complications
>
>I am not an expert on this subject so if any errors are exist please
>advise,
>I live to learn.
>
>Me?... I'm holding out for the advent of motive power source designs that
>utilize antimatter based fuels before considering substantial engine mods
>and currently available alternative fuels etc.{[g-}!
>
>Jim in Kelowna do not archive
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Has anyone done testing and found the best speed that maximizes, altitude,
distance traveled, in the least time?
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
AGE-85 is 85% alcohol, 14% Pentane (I think) helps with cold starts, 1%
corrosion inhibitor.
At 07:45 AM 11/4/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>The relatively low energy density of alchohols concerns me enough, but what
>about corrosion with alchohol fuels? Are any additional acids formed in the
>combustion process which might reduce the life of engine components? Sounds
>like a search/discussion topic for the day.
>
>Until someone can come up with another energy storage and conversion
>technology (if I could give an example, I wouldn't be sitting at this desk)
>I think diesel should be the next large step.
>
>2 cents
>
>do not archive
>
>Bryan
>
> >
> >Re-alternative fuels,
> >
> >Having read several rv-list alternate fuel threads over the years. I am
> >left
> >with the impression that some number of individuals think that switching to
> >alternative fuels simply requires some means of supplying the fuel of
> >choice
> >to the engine and then making a few simple external adjustments to ignition
> >timing, carburetor etc.
> >
> >At the design stage, getting the best combination of performance,
> >reliability, utility and power from any individual internal combustion
> >engine design one of the first things to establish is the intended choice
> >of
> >fuel.
> >Of course a careful examination of the intended application among many
> >other
> >things is also required.
> >
> >Various tolerances, Ignition timing, fuel flow rates, compression rates,
> >combustion chamber shape, camshaft design, (timing ,lift and duration etc),
> >bore and stroke, structural materials choices, lubricants, porting (both
> >exhaust and intake), and cooling requirements will all play a role in
> >acquiring the acceptable overall characteristics of the final design.
> >Needless to say cost restraints play a roll as well.
> >The list is actually longer than stated here but the general idea is at
> >least indicated.
> >
> >One should not expect to be able to change fuels with an existing engine
> >design without re-examining at least some combination of the above basic
> >considerations.
> >Swapping fuels into an unchanged existing engine design will result in
> >trade
> >offs that will not likely adequately satisfy all the expectations.
> >
> >Designing or re-designing fuels to fit successful existing engine designs
> >without losses in performance, reliability, utility or power is also
> >fraught
> >with its own pandora's box of complications
> >
> >I am not an expert on this subject so if any errors are exist please
> >advise,
> >I live to learn.
> >
> >Me?... I'm holding out for the advent of motive power source designs that
> >utilize antimatter based fuels before considering substantial engine mods
> >and currently available alternative fuels etc.{[g-}!
> >
> >Jim in Kelowna do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: EFIS Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Vince,
I'm starting to warm up to the idea of the GRT EFIS & EIS combo. It's a lot of
eggs in one basket should something fail in flight (and at work it's not uncommon
for our flight rated MFDs to degrade/fail in the labs) and personally I have
this fear about the plane being broken into for easy to steal higher priced
avionics. This seems a tempting target. Oh well.
OK, so it's the best idea since sliced bread. But what are the current annoyances
with it?
Any false alarms generated like typical startup conditions before ideal tolerances
are obtainable?
Do you use the altitude encoder to your TX? They show no pictures of anything
but main displays. Do you have any pictures of the setup menus? For example,
a common action would be to setup barometric pressure. How many steps and what
buttons/knob combinations get you there. I hope it's not all push button for
this.
How accurate is the heading and what were the considerations they have about mounting
it near a wing tip strobe power pack? How involved in calibrating it and
the rest of the sensors?
I have float type fuel senders - any issue there? Any other installation nice
to knows along those kind of lines?
I want to use the MFD as the ammeter for the whole plane. Did you and if so what
did it take to make that happen?
The GPS page is sparce and more Software is promised in the future. What can it
do now and what's the latest on when they will updgrade it?
What are the limitations and usefullness of the G-meter readings? I haven't found
any picture of it on their display. Is it actually usable during acro and
does it keep the max high/low or just show instanteaous in small font?
I see no notice about an online user's manual other than one is going to be out
late but that was a while ago. Do you have a soft copy of one you could send?
Thanks!
Lucky Macy
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
>
>
> SNIP Anyone hear of anything new on the EFIS horizon? no pun intended.
>
> lucky
>
> SNIP
>
> Lucky,
>
> I've got 5 hours behind my GRT EFIS Horizon in my Rocket. All I can say
> is WOW!
>
> It will take me another 20 hours just to figure out how to use all of
> the nifty stuff it will do!
>
> I've had the usual teething problems, all related to things I've done
> wrong, nothing that a phone call hasn't been able to fix in 2 minutes.
> So far, I'm quite pleased with it. If you need more details visit my
> website or www.grtavionics.com.
>
> No, they don't pay me to say this stuff....but they should!!!
>
> Vince Frazier
> F-1H Rocket, N540VF
> http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
This just in from the South Dakota Corn Association:
"For every bushel of corn that is put into an ethanol plant you get 2.7
gallons of ethanol, 17 pounds of Dried Distiller's Grain, 17 pounds of co2."
Now there is about 200 bushels per acre +- 25. So one acre should produce
540 gallons of alcohol. So I only need about 4~5 acres of corn a year to
fly on.
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Bryan,
When Methanol is to be used as an alternate fuel in pure form or percentages
of mix with gasoline or diesel, (if that can be done?) various rubber seals,
gaskets and brass parts must be swapped out. Methanol is not potable
On the other hand Ethanol is much less reactive or corrosive and is the
choice to be used as a de-icing and oxygenizing additive for gasoline. It is
also the more common choice of the all alcohols for switching to as an
alternative fuel.
Denatured alcohol is basically ethanol polluted with 1% gasoline to make it
non-drinkable. The taxman's way of spoiling a lot of very cheap drunks.
My information on alcohol ends about here so, take care when toasting to
alternative fuels,
Jim in Kelowna
Please chime in if I have made omissions or mistreaks
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> The relatively low energy density of alchohols concerns me enough, but
> what
> about corrosion with alchohol fuels? Are any additional acids formed in
> the
> combustion process which might reduce the life of engine components?
> Sounds
> like a search/discussion topic for the day.
>
> Until someone can come up with another energy storage and conversion
> technology (if I could give an example, I wouldn't be sitting at this
> desk)
> I think diesel should be the next large step.
>
> 2 cents
>
> do not archive
>
> Bryan
>
>>
>>Re-alternative fuels,
>>
>>Having read several rv-list alternate fuel threads over the years. I am
>>left
>>with the impression that some number of individuals think that switching
>>to
>>alternative fuels simply requires some means of supplying the fuel of
>>choice
>>to the engine and then making a few simple external adjustments to
>>ignition
>>timing, carburetor etc.
>>
>>At the design stage, getting the best combination of performance,
>>reliability, utility and power from any individual internal combustion
>>engine design one of the first things to establish is the intended choice
>>of
>>fuel.
>>Of course a careful examination of the intended application among many
>>other
>>things is also required.
>>
>>Various tolerances, Ignition timing, fuel flow rates, compression rates,
>>combustion chamber shape, camshaft design, (timing ,lift and duration
>>etc),
>>bore and stroke, structural materials choices, lubricants, porting (both
>>exhaust and intake), and cooling requirements will all play a role in
>>acquiring the acceptable overall characteristics of the final design.
>>Needless to say cost restraints play a roll as well.
>>The list is actually longer than stated here but the general idea is at
>>least indicated.
>>
>>One should not expect to be able to change fuels with an existing engine
>>design without re-examining at least some combination of the above basic
>>considerations.
>>Swapping fuels into an unchanged existing engine design will result in
>>trade
>>offs that will not likely adequately satisfy all the expectations.
>>
>>Designing or re-designing fuels to fit successful existing engine designs
>>without losses in performance, reliability, utility or power is also
>>fraught
>>with its own pandora's box of complications
>>
>>I am not an expert on this subject so if any errors are exist please
>>advise,
>>I live to learn.
>>
>>Me?... I'm holding out for the advent of motive power source designs that
>>utilize antimatter based fuels before considering substantial engine mods
>>and currently available alternative fuels etc.{[g-}!
>>
>>Jim in Kelowna do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | "What's my Contribution used for?" [PLEASE READ!] |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
Some have asked, "What's my Contribution used for?", and this is certainly
a valid question. Here are just a few examples of what your direct List
support enables. It provides for the very expensive, business-class,
high-speed T1 Internet connection used on the List, insuring maximum
performance and minimal contention when accessing List services. It pays
for the regular system hardware and software upgrades enabling the highest
performance possible for services such as the Archive Search Engine and
List Browser. It pays for 16+ years worth of online archive data available
for instant random access. And, it offsets the many hours spent writing,
developing, and maintaining the custom applications that power this List
Service such as the List Browse, Search Engine, and PhotoShare.
But most importantly, your List Contribution enables a forum where you and
your peers can communicate freely in an environment that is free from
moderation, censorship, advertising, commercialism, SPAM, and computer
viruses. How many places on the Internet can you make all those statements
about these days? I will venture to say - next to none...
It is YOUR CONTRIBUTION that directly enables these many desirable aspects
of this most valuable List service. Please support it today with your List
Contribution. Its the best investment you can make in your Sport - BAR NONE!
List Contribution Web Site:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: EFIS Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
Lucky,
I'm flying with the EFIS Horizion as an MFD/moving map I also have the EIS but
I don't use the graphical engine data on the EFIS. If you are worried about failures
you can have the EFIS built with airspeed and altitude built in then the
EFIS with compare the values and flag if they don't match. But then you have
to figure out which one is correct. But what I realy was writing to say is
that if you go to the GRT download page and download the latest software one
of the files you get in the .zip package is a .PDF of the users manual. It will
not answer all your question but after you read through it I would say to call
Todd at GRT and get the answer from him.
Alan Kritzman
Cedar Rapids, IA
RV-8
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: climb speed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
When I started flying my RV seven years ago, the experienced persons
said climb at 120 MPH when doing enroute climb. It works to
perfection, and seems to go with the airfoil, visibility and overall
economy.
We live close to the mountains. When we head west to go over the
mountains, we use 120 MPH. This gets us to breakfast in the minimum
time, which i think meets your criteria.
A scientific analysis would no doubt change this a bit but I doubt it
would be more than 5MPH off.
Denis.
On Nov 4, 2004, at 7:04 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Has anyone done testing and found the best speed that maximizes,
> altitude,
> distance traveled, in the least time?
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: EFIS Horizon |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Thanks,
Why don't you use the graphical display for the engine info? I really like the
idea of using the split screens and want the engine data available to me there.
It's one of the best features.
I already have the standard round airspeed and altitude gauges so I'm not really
interested in the effect of loosing that part of the MFD.
How do you like dealing with the company? Is it basically a one person show?
How responsive have they been to any problem you may have had or suggestion you
had to make?
lucky
> --> RV-List message posted by: N13eer@aol.com
>
> Lucky,
> I'm flying with the EFIS Horizion as an MFD/moving map I also have the EIS but
I
> don't use the graphical engine data on the EFIS. If you are worried about
> failures you can have the EFIS built with airspeed and altitude built in then
> the EFIS with compare the values and flag if they don't match. But then you
> have to figure out which one is correct. But what I realy was writing to say
is
> that if you go to the GRT download page and download the latest software one
of
> the files you get in the .zip package is a .PDF of the users manual. It will
> not answer all your question but after you read through it I would say to call
> Todd at GRT and get the answer from him.
>
> Alan Kritzman
> Cedar Rapids, IA
> RV-8
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Stupid Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I am not finding any kind of chart that shows suggested dimple die sizes for a
given screw size anywhere on the plans. I have found the
torque table that shows the size of the screw (I think it is 5/16). Anyway, I dont
think I have a #8 dimple die, but I am not sure because
these dumb ATS dimple dies dont have numbers on them that look meaningful... Is
there somewhere in the plans that it states the
correct drill holes and dimple die sizes for each of the given bolt holes? Or maybe
some other resource online?
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid
local sender)
> AN5?! You must be building a B-17. 8
) More like a #8 screw.
> Probably
> AN515 or something like that. Use a #8 dimple. Check the plans before
> taking my advice, though...
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 9:00 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid
> local sender)
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> >
> > I was going to dimple the skin on the wings for the fuel tanks and I
> cannot figure out which dimple die to use... The bolts are AN5-8R8 but
> > the "complete RV builders kit" that I purchased does not have an AN5
> dimple. Am I missing something? are you supposed to match the
> > dimple die (AN5) to the bolt size (AN5) based on the AN number? did
> the
> kit just leave out this obvious dimple die (there are a lot of these
> > bolts throughout the hole plane). Thanks for your help.
> >
> > - Matt Johnson
> >
> >
> >
> > _-> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid |
local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross Mickey" <rmickey@ix.netcom.com>
I can't help you with the labeling part. You can go to
http://www.averytools.com/results.cfm?keyword=dies
Or
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/rivdimplesets.php
To see the different sizes.
These are 3/32, 1/8, 5/32 for rivets and #6, #8, #10 for screws. When I
bought mine, I made sure I stored them so I could tell which was which.
Ross Mickey
RV6A
N9PT
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from
valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I am not finding any kind of chart that shows suggested dimple die sizes
for a given screw size anywhere on the plans. I have found the
torque table that shows the size of the screw (I think it is 5/16).
Anyway, I dont think I have a #8 dimple die, but I am not sure because
these dumb ATS dimple dies dont have numbers on them that look
meaningful... Is there somewhere in the plans that it states the
correct drill holes and dimple die sizes for each of the given bolt
holes? Or maybe some other resource online?
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stupid Question... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
> AN5?! You must be building a B-17. 8
) More like a #8 screw.
> Probably
> AN515 or something like that. Use a #8 dimple. Check the plans
before
> taking my advice, though...
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, November 03, 2004 9:00 AM
> Subject: RV-List: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from
valid
> local sender)
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> >
> > I was going to dimple the skin on the wings for the fuel tanks and I
> cannot figure out which dimple die to use... The bolts are AN5-8R8 but
> > the "complete RV builders kit" that I purchased does not have an AN5
> dimple. Am I missing something? are you supposed to match the
> > dimple die (AN5) to the bolt size (AN5) based on the AN number? did
> the
> kit just leave out this obvious dimple die (there are a lot of these
> > bolts throughout the hole plane). Thanks for your help.
> >
> > - Matt Johnson
> >
> >
> >
> > _-> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid |
local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Hii Matt:
It sounds like you are talking about AN509 8R8 flat head screws. They
require a dimple die that has a #19 male half and matching female half.
Check the size with your drill size gauge.
Eustace
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid
local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I was going to dimple the skin on the wings for the fuel tanks and I
cannot figure out which dimple die to use... The bolts are AN5-8R8 but
> the "complete RV builders kit" that I purchased does not have an AN5
dimple. Am I missing something? are you supposed to match the
> dimple die (AN5) to the bolt size (AN5) based on the AN number? did the
kit just leave out this obvious dimple die (there are a lot of these
> bolts throughout the hole plane). Thanks for your help.
>
> - Matt Johnson
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid local |
send...
--> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
In a message dated 11/4/2004 3:50:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
matt@n559rv.com writes:
> I am not finding any kind of chart that shows suggested dimple die sizes
> for a given screw size anywhere on the plans. I have found the
> torque table that shows the size of the screw (I think it is 5/16). Anyway,
> I dont think I have a #8 dimple die, but I am not sure because
> these dumb ATS dimple dies dont have numbers on them that look meaningful...
> Is there somewhere in the plans that it states the
> correct drill holes and dimple die sizes for each of the given bolt holes?
> Or maybe some other resource online?
>
Hi Matt,
If the plans say to use an AN509-8R8. You would use a #8 die. If you have
one it might have 4508 stamped on it. (Number is from ATS catalog) It helps
to get have catalogs from the various tool companies handy for this kind of
stuff. Good news is that they're usually free.
Cleveland Aircraft Tool Company's catalog has a handy chart in it that you
can hang on your wall that has hole sizes, tap sizes, etc.
Another good reference for fasteners is the toolbox reference book from
Genuine Aircraft Hardware Company.
Good Luck,
Hal Benjamin
RV4, Long Island, NY
Fuselage
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Stupid Question... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Thanks everyone. I will take a look when I get home at what I have again now that
I know what I am looking for.
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: HalBenjamin@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid local
send...
> --> RV-List message posted by: HalBenjamin@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 11/4/2004 3:50:03 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> matt@n559rv.com writes:
>
> > I am not finding any kind of chart that shows suggested dimple die
> sizes
> > for a given screw size anywhere on the plans. I have found the
> > torque table that shows the size of the screw (I think it is 5/16).
> Anyway,
> > I dont think I have a #8 dimple die, but I am not sure because
> > these dumb ATS dimple dies dont have numbers on them that look
> meaningful...
> > Is there somewhere in the plans that it states the
> > correct drill holes and dimple die sizes for each of the given bolt
> holes?
> > Or maybe some other resource online?
> >
>
> Hi Matt,
>
> If the plans say to use an AN509-8R8. You would use a #8 die. If you
> have
> one it might have 4508 stamped on it. (Number is from ATS catalog) It
> helps
> to get have catalogs from the various tool companies handy for this
> kind of
> stuff. Good news is that they're usually free.
>
> Cleveland Aircraft Tool Company's catalog has a handy chart in it that
> you
> can hang on your wall that has hole sizes, tap sizes, etc.
> Another good reference for fasteners is the toolbox reference book from
> Genuine Aircraft Hardware Company.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Hal Benjamin
> RV4, Long Island, NY
> Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: climb speed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
I also heard that others who had actually tested came up with 120 mph and
used that with good results for my RV-8. Actually I found that 130 mph
yielded almost as much rate of climb, but of course provided slightly better
cooling.
Then I started testing props where we were doing very precise climbs and
data acquisition. What I found is that the actual best climb varied a bit
with each prop. I used the same speed for each prop so as to not introduce
another variable, but that may have been unfair if the best speed was
different. For example with the Whirl Wind 200C I remember discarding a run
where I was flying a bit too fast, ~125 mph, and it climbed better there.
The window for the three props I tested was probably 7 mph wide. The moral
to the story is that you'll need to do the testing to actually find out what
Vy for your plane is.
Randy Lervold
----- Original Message -----
From: "Denis Walsh" <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: climb speed?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
> When I started flying my RV seven years ago, the experienced persons
> said climb at 120 MPH when doing enroute climb. It works to
> perfection, and seems to go with the airfoil, visibility and overall
> economy.
>
> We live close to the mountains. When we head west to go over the
> mountains, we use 120 MPH. This gets us to breakfast in the minimum
> time, which i think meets your criteria.
>
> A scientific analysis would no doubt change this a bit but I doubt it
> would be more than 5MPH off.
>
> Denis.
> On Nov 4, 2004, at 7:04 AM, Scott Bilinski wrote:
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> > <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> > Has anyone done testing and found the best speed that maximizes,
> > altitude,
> > distance traveled, in the least time?
> >
> >
> > Scott Bilinski
> > Eng dept 305
> > Phone (858) 657-2536
> > Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Garmin 196 mounting... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom" <tomrv8@gvtc.com>
I would like to mount my Garmin 196 GPS in my RV-4, and plan to mount it in
front of the upper right area of the instrument panel at the intersection of
the side rail. In that postition it won't be blocking any guages, and should
be out of the way of my knees. (no room to mount it in the panel itself)
My question is, what mounting brackets might be compatible/ adaptable to
work with the '196 (or use, in conjunction with, the supplied Garmin
bracket), and would allow me to attach the bracket to the bottom lip of the
instrument panel, or possibly to the side rail. Any info on the make of
bracket and supplier would be greatly appreciated.
Do not archive
Thanks!
Tom
San Antonio
N153TK 16 years old and 1100 hours later...
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
Way I heard it, back in my hotrodding days, was that alcohol carries some of
its own oxygen, so it acts sort of like it was supercharged, BUT, volume
comsumption has to increase to make up for it, so you'll be running a lot
richer at full power, but you'll also be putting out a lot more steam.
Jack Ford
----- Original Message -----
From: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> As I remember it, you have to burn more (higher fuel flow) to get the
higher
> power output with alcohol.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Chris W" <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...)
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W
> <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
> >
> > Scott Bilinski wrote:
> >
> > >Yes it has lower BTU's but also puts out about 10% more power at
> > >the same power settings.
> > >
> > >
> > I'm confused. How can it have less BTU's and still put out more power?
> > BTU is an energy unit and Power is Energy over time. So if ethanol has
> > fewer BTU's per gallon, how could you possibly get 10% more power at the
> > same GPH flow?
> >
> > This is probably a bad estimate, and probably changes a lot with scale.
> > In the model airplane world if you have a big bird you want to convert
> > from a nitro-methane engine to a gas engine, the general rule of thumb
> > is you only need half as much fuel by volume.
> >
> > Now diesel seems the way to go, more BTU's per lbs and more lbs per
> > gallon... it's like getting long range tanks for free. Of course there
> > is the whole needing a new engine part. I just hope by the time I get
> > building Deltahawk or some other manufacture will have a 180+ hp diesel
> > with all the bugs worked out.
> >
> > Chris W
> > Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
> > http://thewishzone.com
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
Yep, 's'true, otherwise, how could a top-fuel dragster put out so much
horsepower on just the amount of air drawn in by the 6-71 blowers? They get
the rest from the fuel, which comes pre-oxygenated, so to speak.
And they drink it at a rate which borders on hydraulic lock, too.
SCott in lVAncouver
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
>
> Way I heard it, back in my hotrodding days, was that alcohol carries some
> of
> its own oxygen, so it acts sort of like it was supercharged, BUT, volume
> comsumption has to increase to make up for it, so you'll be running a lot
> richer at full power, but you'll also be putting out a lot more steam.
> Jack Ford
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...)
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>>
>> As I remember it, you have to burn more (higher fuel flow) to get the
> higher
>> power output with alcohol.
>>
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Chris W" <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...)
>>
>>
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W
>> <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
>> >
>> > Scott Bilinski wrote:
>> >
>> > >Yes it has lower BTU's but also puts out about 10% more power at
>> > >the same power settings.
>> > >
>> > >
>> > I'm confused. How can it have less BTU's and still put out more power?
>> > BTU is an energy unit and Power is Energy over time. So if ethanol
>> > has
>> > fewer BTU's per gallon, how could you possibly get 10% more power at
>> > the
>> > same GPH flow?
>> >
>> > This is probably a bad estimate, and probably changes a lot with scale.
>> > In the model airplane world if you have a big bird you want to convert
>> > from a nitro-methane engine to a gas engine, the general rule of thumb
>> > is you only need half as much fuel by volume.
>> >
>> > Now diesel seems the way to go, more BTU's per lbs and more lbs per
>> > gallon... it's like getting long range tanks for free. Of course there
>> > is the whole needing a new engine part. I just hope by the time I get
>> > building Deltahawk or some other manufacture will have a 180+ hp diesel
>> > with all the bugs worked out.
>> >
>> > Chris W
>> > Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
>> > http://thewishzone.com
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative Fuels (was Fuel Senders...) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 11/3/2004 9:38:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
svanarts@yahoo.com writes:
Maybe one will "evolve." Why don't you throw some random chemicals
together and wait a few million years to see what develops? :-)
Do not archive that. Just poking fun right back.
Vanremog@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
>I keep praying for the "faith based" fuels.
=================================
Scott-
Good one, but it's already been done. Last time I looked there were to few
remaining Stegosauri and giant ferns around to power my lawn mower, so the
last of the dino juice at the end of this century will the end of fuel by
evolution. Besides, in another 100 million years my RV would be rendered back
to
it's elemental state.
Do not archive.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 mounting... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larygagnon@aol.com
I cut the original 196 mount to leave just a right angle brace that was
drilled and mounted to the side rail. It allows me to take the unit in and out
with the original slip in latch and still retain the swivel and tilt of the
cradle. Contact me off line if you want a picture.
Larry Gagnon
RV6 O360 N6LG 60 hours
RV6A wings
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Stupid Question... (not processed: message from valid local |
send...
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 11/4/04 12:49:52 PM Pacific Standard Time, matt@n559rv.com
writes:
<< Is there somewhere in the plans that it states the correct drill holes
and dimple die sizes for each of the given bolt holes? Or maybe some other
resource online? >>
Matt: Just a suggestion but why don't you buy a number drill gauge (Avery
or Cleveland). With that you could easily select the correct dimple die even
if they are unmarked by selecting the one that has a guide pin that fits the
desired screw size hole in the gauge.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6
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