Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:08 AM - Re: Nutplate jigs (Mickey Coggins)
2. 02:01 AM - Re: Special N-Number reservation (William King)
3. 04:56 AM - Re: Flying with flaps down (LarryRobertHelming)
4. 05:28 AM - Re: Flying with flaps down (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 05:38 AM - Re: Special N-Number reservation (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
6. 05:44 AM - Re: Nutplate jigs (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
7. 05:56 AM - Re: Flying with flaps down (Ed Anderson)
8. 06:00 AM - Re: Flying with flaps down (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
9. 06:11 AM - Re: Nutplate jigs (Charlie England)
10. 06:23 AM - Re: Nutplate jigs (LarryRobertHelming)
11. 06:25 AM - Re: Flying with flaps down (LarryRobertHelming)
12. 06:28 AM - GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble (chris macy)
13. 06:31 AM - Re: Special N-Number reservation (James H Nelson)
14. 06:34 AM - Re: Nutplate jigs (PSILeD@aol.com)
15. 06:37 AM - Re: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble (Trampas)
16. 07:04 AM - Re: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
17. 07:12 AM - Re: Hinges (Evan and Megan Johnson)
18. 07:59 AM - Re: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble (Stein Bruch)
19. 08:20 AM - Re: Hinges (Jack Ford)
20. 08:32 AM - Re: Nutplate jigs (Mickey Coggins)
21. 08:47 AM - Re: Hinges (steve zicree)
22. 09:13 AM - Re: Hinges (Kathleen@rv7.us)
23. 09:19 AM - > Re: Hinges (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
24. 09:28 AM - > Re:Flying with flaps down (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
25. 10:21 AM - Re: Special N-Number reservation (Sam Buchanan)
26. 10:22 AM - Screwy fuel flow readings (HCRV6@aol.com)
27. 10:28 AM - Re: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
28. 10:40 AM - Re: Screwy fuel flow readings (Jeff Point)
29. 10:48 AM - Re: (Allen Fulmer)
30. 11:23 AM - Re: (Dan Brown)
31. 11:41 AM - Re: Hinges (Chris W)
32. 01:14 PM - Re: Special N-Number reservation (Jeff Point)
33. 02:05 PM - Re: Screwy fuel flow readings (Trampas)
34. 02:36 PM - Heat muff for carburated engines only (GEORGE INMAN)
35. 04:38 PM - RMI - MicroMonitor (Tom Gummo)
36. 04:58 PM - starter on ebay (james frierson)
37. 05:39 PM - Re: Screwy fuel flow readings (HCRV6@aol.com)
38. 06:15 PM - Re: starter on ebay (John Furey)
39. 06:18 PM - Prop Gov bracket (John Furey)
40. 06:28 PM - Re: Prop Gov bracket (John Furey)
41. 06:42 PM - Re: RMI - MicroMonitor (Scott VanArtsdalen)
42. 06:49 PM - Re: Prop Gov bracket (Dan Checkoway)
43. 07:26 PM - Re: Prop Gov bracket (John Furey)
44. 08:43 PM - Re: Prop Gov bracket (Dan Checkoway)
45. 11:45 PM - Re: RMI - MicroMonitor (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Nutplate jigs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Many thanks to those of you that replied both on and off-list.
I've tried just about every trick mentioned, cuz I didn't
want to shell out the cash for a nutplate jig. By the time
I realized they existed, I thought I was just about finished
installing nutplates. Wrong! I'll probably be installing
a nutplate on the morning of my first flight, it seems!
Now I'm going to try the jig(s).
Thanks again,
Mickey
><< Are nutplate jigs worth what people like Avery charge for them (38 USD)?
>Any other tricks that you care to pass on? >>
>
>
>I've never been sorry I purchased both #6 and #8 nutplate jigs early on.
>They don't work however on the smaller MK nutplates or on the 45 degree ones.
>For them I use the nutplate as a jig. Drill the screw hole first, then attach
>the nutplate with a short screw and use it as a guide to drill the rivet holes.
> Much slower than the jig but it gets the job done.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Special N-Number reservation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
Thanks for the responses, I never thought of the Tax Consequenses!
Another $10 ain't such a bad deal I guess...
Bill King
www.kane-king.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Special N-Number reservation
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> You can register the aircraft before it is complete, as a matter of fact,
> since they sometimes take a while to mail back the registration you
> normally
> register it before it is done so you have the paperwork back before the
> inspection. Until you get the inspection and have an airworthiness
> certificate it is a partially completed airplane anyway so they are all
> registered before they are complete.
>
> You will trigger the sales tax man in most states by the registration so
> that is a consideration if you won't be done for a while.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of William King
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Special N-Number reservation
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William King" <bill@kane-king.com>
>
> Greetings
>
> Last year I had applied for and received an N-number reservation. It
> expires
> on December 3, 2004 unless I reserve it for another year or assign it to
> my
> aircraft. My question is, Can I assign this number to a partially
> completed
> aircraft or do I need to wait until it's finished.
>
> Bill King
> www.kane-king.com
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with flaps down |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> Check your canopy at least twice before you go too.
This potential problem is solved easily in a tip up ( and probably
also in a slider ) with the ACS2002 monitor. It has a voice alert that can
be used to tell the pilot if the canopy is not fully closed down when the
RPMs are over 1500. Nice feature and I hope I only test it and hear it
once. A small well placed roller or pressure switch at Radio Shack which
cost about $2 with some wire is all that is needed to complete the job. The
ACS2002 also has other user alerts that can be used in a similar fashion
with an open/closed switch. I am not a salesman for them, just a happy
customer of theirs. I still have a couple of open options and am looking
for ideas of what I can use them for. I guess flaps up would be another
one. I usually have the rpm under 1500 when the flaps are being used. If
used, it would be an instant reminder if you just decided to do a go around
and got back on the throttle before raising the flaps. Other Ideas?
Larry Robert Helming
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
- Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flying with flaps down
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Dan,
>
> A friend of mine took off in a 6a with the flaps full down and took a
> minute to figure out why it wouldn't accelerate and climb as well as it
> usually does. Alex is right. The airplane will tell you something's
> wrong. I bet you don't forget to raise them next time. I, I mean my
> friend didn't forget again. Same guy forgot to latch his oil filler door
> once, too.
>
> Check your canopy at least twice before you go too. That one wasn't my
> fault, though. The spring that holds the tip-up latch wasn't long enough
> and allowed the latch to come loose and the canopy to open in flight.
> That was about a week after we bought the plane. Made an impression on
> me. I was at OSH buying springs that night. I may forget to turn on my
> transponder every now and them, but I never forget to check the canopy.
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with flaps down |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 11/5/04 8:15:24 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
alexpeterson@earthlink.net writes:
> Dan, or I mean Dan's friend, learn from it and move on. My only question
> is
> why did you, er, he, have full flaps on takeoff? Full flaps lengthen the
> takeoff roll.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 548 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
Alex,
I'm not really sure that this happened at all, now that you mention the
amount of stick pressure that would be required. He doesn't remember any great
amount of force required. If it did happen it was because he had full flaps for
the previous landing. He usually leaves the flaps down to make exiting and
entering the airplane easier. The takeoff would have then been made with the
flaps in that position, not on purpose. What "my friend" remembers is that when
he went to put the flaps down for the landing approach, they were already
down. Its possible he put them down without realizing it. He was being
distracted by a passenger asking a lot of questions (same goes for the takeoff),
when
he should have said, "Be quiet for a minute, while I go through my checklist!"
Dan
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Special N-Number reservation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Bill,
You need to have your airplane registered before it is inspected by the FAA
or DAR. I didn't, and had to wait 3 long weeks for the first flight. I think
you could go ahead and register it now. IMHO.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying 60+ hours)
In a message dated 11/5/04 10:51:05 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
bill@kane-king.com writes:
> Greetings
>
> Last year I had applied for and received an N-number reservation. It expires
>
> on December 3, 2004 unless I reserve it for another year or assign it to my
> aircraft. My question is, Can I assign this number to a partially completed
> aircraft or do I need to wait until it's finished.
>
> Bill King
> www.kane-king.com
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Nutplate jigs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Fellow nutplaters,
Why doesn't Van punch these holes for us? I know he wants to make the
airplanes easier and quicker to build. This would be something he could do that
would save us all from needing a jig wouldn't it?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying 60+ hours)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with flaps down |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
I agree with Dan. I once took off with full flaps and the first thing I
noticed was - I seemed to be elevating in a almost left attitude, but the
real tip off was the aircraft was slow to accelerate pass 80 knots. Also
had the tip-up canopy pop open on take off at about 300 ft . Failed to
ensure the main latch was locked and got distracted from the check list and
failed to rotate the canopy handel so that the "secondary" latch would
engage. The loud noise when the canopy pop open approx 6 -8 inches WILL
get your attention.
Just keep flying the aircraft to a safe altitude (I leveled off at 3500msl)
at a slow climb airspeed. Pull on full flaps and slow down to 5-10 kts
above your stall speed and then you can reach up and pull the canopy closed.
Have never done either one since {:>)
Ed Anderson
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Dan,
>
> A friend of mine took off in a 6a with the flaps full down and took a
> minute to figure out why it wouldn't accelerate and climb as well as it
> usually does. Alex is right. The airplane will tell you something's
> wrong. I bet you don't forget to raise them next time. I, I mean my
> friend didn't forget again. Same guy forgot to latch his oil filler door
> once, too.
>
> Check your canopy at least twice before you go too. That one wasn't my
> fault, though. The spring that holds the tip-up latch wasn't long enough
> and allowed the latch to come loose and the canopy to open in flight.
> That was about a week after we bought the plane. Made an impression on
> me. I was at OSH buying springs that night. I may forget to turn on my
> transponder every now and them, but I never forget to check the canopy.
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> >
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with flaps down |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> This thread has reminded me of (snip)
>>>>>>>>>>>
Unfortunaltely it reminds me how often we never answer the original question-
which asked about flap damage experience flying above the white line--
If there is no obvious damage, skin wrinkles, hinge eyes broken, loose
hardware and the alignment of the TE looks original and they still operate as
before, I doubt you (er, he) hurt anything. If you're still concerned, I'd fess
up
to Vans techies and get their slant on it.
In your friends defense, if he had just loaded 200 lbs of fuel and was
departing a busy, possibly unfamiliar airport, watching traffic etc I could
understand, especially since 150 HP, FP RVs climb pretty darn good even with the
flaps
down (yes, I've done it too!<<G>>!)
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Nutplate jigs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>Fellow nutplaters,
>
>Why doesn't Van punch these holes for us? I know he wants to make the
>airplanes easier and quicker to build. This would be something he could do that
>would save us all from needing a jig wouldn't it?
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A
>N766DH (Flying 60+ hours)
>
Well Dan, you must have made your move too soon. ;-)
I thought about telling Mickey to do a kit upgrade instead of a tool
upgrade. My -7 tail & wings (bought in Apr. last year) have had all the
nutplate areas prepunched.
Charlie
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Nutplate jigs |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>> Why doesn't Van punch these holes for us?
There is a 51% Rule AND we need to fabricate some stuff. Maybe That
could be the reason? Making it too easy wouldn't meet the standard
requirements for home built experimental. I can't think of any other
reason unless it is just an oversight. That would be a good question to
ask Vans. do not archive
Indiana Larry
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
- Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Nutplate jigs
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Fellow nutplaters,
>
> Why doesn't Van punch these holes for us? I know he wants to make the
> airplanes easier and quicker to build. This would be something he could
do that
> would save us all from needing a jig wouldn't it?
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
> N766DH (Flying 60+ hours)
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Flying with flaps down |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>If there is no obvious damage, skin wrinkles, hinge eyes broken, loose
hardware and the alignment of the TE looks original and they still operate
as
before, I doubt you (er, he) hurt anything.
Well, maybe while in that configuration the plane did not run into
any wind gusts also. What if it had?
I agree, good question for Vans designers/engineers.
Indiana Larry
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flying with flaps down
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>
> > This thread has reminded me of (snip)
>
> >>>>>>>>>>>
>
> Unfortunaltely it reminds me how often we never answer the original
question-
> which asked about flap damage experience flying above the white line--
>
> If there is no obvious damage, skin wrinkles, hinge eyes broken, loose
> hardware and the alignment of the TE looks original and they still operate
as
> before, I doubt you (er, he) hurt anything. If you're still concerned,
I'd fess up
> to Vans techies and get their slant on it.
>
> In your friends defense, if he had just loaded 200 lbs of fuel and was
> departing a busy, possibly unfamiliar airport, watching traffic etc I
could
> understand, especially since 150 HP, FP RVs climb pretty darn good even
with the flaps
> down (yes, I've done it too!<<G>>!)
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble |
--> RV-List message posted by: "chris macy" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Vince,
You are a so right about the GRT EFIS!
I read up a bunch on the GRT and called them up afterwards yesterday.
In short, I was impressed and ordered it. The more I thought about how the relatively
low cost systems like this probably calculate their pitch and heading
info I think theirs is the safest if you were actually depending your life upon
it with respect to accuracy of displayed info. Their web site and BMTs and
other web sites are there for others to study and ask the companies questions.
Here's a starter.
http://www.grtavionics.com/compare.htm
Can you tell me more specifically how responsive & accurate the wind speed and
direction info is as far as you can tell? Have you ever seen the wind sock shift
on way and the graphics not change or lag a lot?
One of the things we talked about was my G-meter idea and Todd seemed to really
like it. Here's what he wrote back to me after the conversation "We have no
problem adding features like this. We are going to add optional voice indication
of the G meter and tone. We will be working on a separate page for Acro.
We welcome any suggestions you may have." Love these guys already.
They sent me a few attachments including a full size screen shot showing the G
meter stuff. It's great. I'll attach it. It already shows max high/low and current.
The thing that really sold me was that 10 page impressions of usage http://www.grtavionics.com/Impressions.htm
Have you ever tried that HITS down to the runway as the one usage write up did?
Looked cool and a real potential last resort life saver if one was in a legit
holy you know what weather bind, engine out, what have you.
As an avionics test guy for Boeing by profession myself, I can relate to the Boeing
guy doing the design. I think it would be an awesome toy for a Boeing pilot
by trade to stick on of these in his plane. The design is so open ended and
has so much growth potential that the new tricks like weather and traffic and
textured terrain will continue to roll out for years to come and they insist
the SW will continue to be free. Wow.
For my personal taste, the immediate Dynon shortcomings it overcomes is that it's
not all push buttons and the display is the "right" size and width for my RV8
and getting older eyes. And it's engine monitor page really blows me away.
I'm an idiot for not looking at it sooner. Stuff like the time history and the
percent power displayed are just so cool.
I feel dumb now for whacking their GPS page. I know when it's finished it will
look as good if not better than anything else in the price range. But it's actually
very good right now. You just have to read the details on what it does
and reacts to where you are flying. The internal GPS is now an option and so
the new SW has mission planning built in. It's not Star Wars yet but it's functional
and enough to accompany the new HW.
The initial cost isn't cheap but the sum of what it does now and what it will further
grow to do in the future makes it a bargain and nothing else touches it
for under $8K. I'm so glad I'm building slow ;-) Gave me time to discover
these guys.
Vince you are a genius! ;-) Thanks a bunch for directing me towards them.
BTW, what brand of panel paint did you use on the panel? It looks textured and
flat.
Looking forward to comparing notes with you in the future on it.
lucky
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Special N-Number reservation |
--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Bill,
I kept my reserved number for 5 years while I was building my
first plane. When I was close to finishing, and getting ready to do
weight and balance after painting, I sent in my request to officially
register the plane. That way I could put the numbers on the fuselage and
be ready for the DAR to sign off the plane so I could go fly it. Worked
out very nicely.
Jim Nelson
N599RV (reserved)
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Nutplate jigs |
--> RV-List message posted by: PSILeD@aol.com
Mickey,
I am useing the Avery nut plate jigs and I think that they are worth the
money. If you get back to Peachtree City come on by the hanger.
Paul LeDoux
RV-8
N9NM reserved
Message 15
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| Subject: | GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
Did you ask about the boot up time? I have heard various reports and
wondered if anyone had a table?
Regards,
Trampas
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of chris macy
Subject: RV-List: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble
--> RV-List message posted by: "chris macy" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Vince,
You are a so right about the GRT EFIS!
I read up a bunch on the GRT and called them up afterwards yesterday.
In short, I was impressed and ordered it. The more I thought about how the
relatively low cost systems like this probably calculate their pitch and
heading info I think theirs is the safest if you were actually depending
your life upon it with respect to accuracy of displayed info. Their web
site and BMTs and other web sites are there for others to study and ask the
companies questions. Here's a starter.
http://www.grtavionics.com/compare.htm
Can you tell me more specifically how responsive & accurate the wind speed
and direction info is as far as you can tell? Have you ever seen the wind
sock shift on way and the graphics not change or lag a lot?
One of the things we talked about was my G-meter idea and Todd seemed to
really like it. Here's what he wrote back to me after the conversation "We
have no problem adding features like this. We are going to add optional
voice indication of the G meter and tone. We will be working on a separate
page for Acro. We welcome any suggestions you may have." Love these guys
already.
They sent me a few attachments including a full size screen shot showing the
G meter stuff. It's great. I'll attach it. It already shows max high/low
and current.
The thing that really sold me was that 10 page impressions of usage
http://www.grtavionics.com/Impressions.htm
Have you ever tried that HITS down to the runway as the one usage write up
did? Looked cool and a real potential last resort life saver if one was in
a legit holy you know what weather bind, engine out, what have you.
As an avionics test guy for Boeing by profession myself, I can relate to the
Boeing guy doing the design. I think it would be an awesome toy for a
Boeing pilot by trade to stick on of these in his plane. The design is so
open ended and has so much growth potential that the new tricks like weather
and traffic and textured terrain will continue to roll out for years to come
and they insist the SW will continue to be free. Wow.
For my personal taste, the immediate Dynon shortcomings it overcomes is that
it's not all push buttons and the display is the "right" size and width for
my RV8 and getting older eyes. And it's engine monitor page really blows me
away. I'm an idiot for not looking at it sooner. Stuff like the time
history and the percent power displayed are just so cool.
I feel dumb now for whacking their GPS page. I know when it's finished it
will look as good if not better than anything else in the price range. But
it's actually very good right now. You just have to read the details on
what it does and reacts to where you are flying. The internal GPS is now an
option and so the new SW has mission planning built in. It's not Star Wars
yet but it's functional and enough to accompany the new HW.
The initial cost isn't cheap but the sum of what it does now and what it
will further grow to do in the future makes it a bargain and nothing else
touches it for under $8K. I'm so glad I'm building slow ;-) Gave me time
to discover these guys.
Vince you are a genius! ;-) Thanks a bunch for directing me towards them.
BTW, what brand of panel paint did you use on the panel? It looks textured
and flat.
Looking forward to comparing notes with you in the future on it.
lucky
do not archive
Message 16
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| Subject: | GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
no because it's discussed in their manual. I think it's about 10 seconds. Comes
it in night mode so it doesn't blind you (that's the same way the military
MFDs I work with also come up).
AHRS takes a bit longer to be completely accurate. Normal. Same with stuff at
work. They have two startup modes. If a warmstart occurs in flight the last
page is redisplayed. Then there is the normal ground mode. SBIT and PBIT
is going on all the time.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
>
> Did you ask about the boot up time? I have heard various reports and
> wondered if anyone had a table?
>
> Regards,
> Trampas
> www.sterntech.com
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of chris macy
> To: vfrazier@usi.edu
> Subject: RV-List: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "chris macy" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
>
> Vince,
>
> You are a so right about the GRT EFIS!
>
> I read up a bunch on the GRT and called them up afterwards yesterday.
>
> In short, I was impressed and ordered it. The more I thought about how the
> relatively low cost systems like this probably calculate their pitch and
> heading info I think theirs is the safest if you were actually depending
> your life upon it with respect to accuracy of displayed info. Their web
> site and BMTs and other web sites are there for others to study and ask the
> companies questions. Here's a starter.
>
> http://www.grtavionics.com/compare.htm
>
> Can you tell me more specifically how responsive & accurate the wind speed
> and direction info is as far as you can tell? Have you ever seen the wind
> sock shift on way and the graphics not change or lag a lot?
>
> One of the things we talked about was my G-meter idea and Todd seemed to
> really like it. Here's what he wrote back to me after the conversation "We
> have no problem adding features like this. We are going to add optional
> voice indication of the G meter and tone. We will be working on a separate
> page for Acro. We welcome any suggestions you may have." Love these guys
> already.
>
> They sent me a few attachments including a full size screen shot showing the
> G meter stuff. It's great. I'll attach it. It already shows max high/low
> and current.
>
> The thing that really sold me was that 10 page impressions of usage
> http://www.grtavionics.com/Impressions.htm
>
> Have you ever tried that HITS down to the runway as the one usage write up
> did? Looked cool and a real potential last resort life saver if one was in
> a legit holy you know what weather bind, engine out, what have you.
>
> As an avionics test guy for Boeing by profession myself, I can relate to the
> Boeing guy doing the design. I think it would be an awesome toy for a
> Boeing pilot by trade to stick on of these in his plane. The design is so
> open ended and has so much growth potential that the new tricks like weather
> and traffic and textured terrain will continue to roll out for years to come
> and they insist the SW will continue to be free. Wow.
>
> For my personal taste, the immediate Dynon shortcomings it overcomes is that
> it's not all push buttons and the display is the "right" size and width for
> my RV8 and getting older eyes. And it's engine monitor page really blows me
> away. I'm an idiot for not looking at it sooner. Stuff like the time
> history and the percent power displayed are just so cool.
>
> I feel dumb now for whacking their GPS page. I know when it's finished it
> will look as good if not better than anything else in the price range. But
> it's actually very good right now. You just have to read the details on
> what it does and reacts to where you are flying. The internal GPS is now an
> option and so the new SW has mission planning built in. It's not Star Wars
> yet but it's functional and enough to accompany the new HW.
>
> The initial cost isn't cheap but the sum of what it does now and what it
> will further grow to do in the future makes it a bargain and nothing else
> touches it for under $8K. I'm so glad I'm building slow ;-) Gave me time
> to discover these guys.
>
> Vince you are a genius! ;-) Thanks a bunch for directing me towards them.
>
> BTW, what brand of panel paint did you use on the panel? It looks textured
> and flat.
>
> Looking forward to comparing notes with you in the future on it.
>
> lucky
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
If you are sure they are not aluminum then try to stick a magnet to
them....stainless wont stick to the magnet like regular mild steel.
Evan
----- Original Message -----
From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
> --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
> They don't look anything like the anodized ones I've worked with up til
now.
> They're also much thinner material, so they probably aren't any heavier.
Is
> there some easy way to tell the difference?
>
> Steve Zicree
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> >
> >
> > In a message dated 11/5/2004 7:18:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > szicree@adelphia.net writes:
> >
> > Anyone know whether my gear leg fairing hinges are stainless? They're
> very
> > thin material and sure do look like stainless, but I'm not sure. Only
> reason I
> > care is I'd love to have one less thing to prime.
> >
> >
> > ==========================================
> >
> > I can't imagine that they would be as stainless, as they would then be
> > approx. three times the weight of aluminum hinge of the same size. I
> believe
> > you'll find them to be anodized aluminum.
> >
> > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
> >
> >
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Before all you buy the system directly from GRT, do some shopping. There
are a number of us GRT dealers that can save you some money and get you a
couple of freebies too!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of chris macy
Subject: RV-List: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble
--> RV-List message posted by: "chris macy" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Vince,
You are a so right about the GRT EFIS!
I read up a bunch on the GRT and called them up afterwards yesterday.
The initial cost isn't cheap but the sum of what it does now and what it
will further grow to do in the future makes it a bargain and nothing else
touches it for under $8K. I'm so glad I'm building slow ;-) Gave me time
to discover these guys.
lucky
do not archive
Message 19
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
Some stainless alloys are magnetic.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> If you are sure they are not aluminum then try to stick a magnet to
> them....stainless wont stick to the magnet like regular mild steel.
>
> Evan
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
> >
> > They don't look anything like the anodized ones I've worked with up til
> now.
> > They're also much thinner material, so they probably aren't any heavier.
> Is
> > there some easy way to tell the difference?
> >
> > Steve Zicree
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> > >
> > >
> > > In a message dated 11/5/2004 7:18:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > szicree@adelphia.net writes:
> > >
> > > Anyone know whether my gear leg fairing hinges are stainless? They're
> > very
> > > thin material and sure do look like stainless, but I'm not sure. Only
> > reason I
> > > care is I'd love to have one less thing to prime.
> > >
> > >
> > > ==========================================
> > >
> > > I can't imagine that they would be as stainless, as they would then be
> > > approx. three times the weight of aluminum hinge of the same size. I
> > believe
> > > you'll find them to be anodized aluminum.
> > >
> > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Nutplate jigs |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Charlie,
Is this true even on the wing roots? That's what I'm working
on right now. Also, I put nutplates in the floors, and the
baggage area, and there are a lot of them! Next will be wingtips.
Mickey
>I thought about telling Mickey to do a kit upgrade instead of a tool
>upgrade. My -7 tail & wings (bought in Apr. last year) have had all the
>nutplate areas prepunched.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
The material is only about .035 thick and looks like either alclad or
stainless. There's gotta be some easy way to find out which. Any
metalurgists out there?
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
>
> Some stainless alloys are magnetic.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >
> > If you are sure they are not aluminum then try to stick a magnet to
> > them....stainless wont stick to the magnet like regular mild steel.
> >
> > Evan
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
> > >
> > > They don't look anything like the anodized ones I've worked with up
til
> > now.
> > > They're also much thinner material, so they probably aren't any
heavier.
> > Is
> > > there some easy way to tell the difference?
> > >
> > > Steve Zicree
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > In a message dated 11/5/2004 7:18:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > > szicree@adelphia.net writes:
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know whether my gear leg fairing hinges are stainless?
They're
> > > very
> > > > thin material and sure do look like stainless, but I'm not sure.
Only
> > > reason I
> > > > care is I'd love to have one less thing to prime.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ==========================================
> > > >
> > > > I can't imagine that they would be as stainless, as they would then
be
> > > > approx. three times the weight of aluminum hinge of the same size.
I
> > > believe
> > > > you'll find them to be anodized aluminum.
> > > >
> > > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 22
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
Oh, just run a small drill against it on the back side. You can tell right
away. If the drill starts to cut with light pressure, it's aluminum. If it
hardly makes a mark, it's probably stainless...
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us <http://www.rv7.us/>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of steve zicree
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
The material is only about .035 thick and looks like either alclad or
stainless. There's gotta be some easy way to find out which. Any
metalurgists out there?
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
>
> Some stainless alloys are magnetic.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >
> > If you are sure they are not aluminum then try to stick a magnet to
> > them....stainless wont stick to the magnet like regular mild steel.
> >
> > Evan
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
> > >
> > > They don't look anything like the anodized ones I've worked with up
til
> > now.
> > > They're also much thinner material, so they probably aren't any
heavier.
> > Is
> > > there some easy way to tell the difference?
> > >
> > > Steve Zicree
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <Vanremog@aol.com>
> > > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Hinges
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > In a message dated 11/5/2004 7:18:32 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> > > > szicree@adelphia.net writes:
> > > >
> > > > Anyone know whether my gear leg fairing hinges are stainless?
They're
> > > very
> > > > thin material and sure do look like stainless, but I'm not sure.
Only
> > > reason I
> > > > care is I'd love to have one less thing to prime.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ==========================================
> > > >
> > > > I can't imagine that they would be as stainless, as they would then
be
> > > > approx. three times the weight of aluminum hinge of the same size.
I
> > > believe
> > > > you'll find them to be anodized aluminum.
> > > >
> > > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
_-
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Hinges |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
A phone call or email to Van's will get a CORRECT answer !!!!!!
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: > Re:Flying with flaps down |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
WOW !! She must have been very distracting ????????
do not archive
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Special N-Number reservation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Brian Kraut wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> You can register the aircraft before it is complete, as a matter of fact,
> since they sometimes take a while to mail back the registration you normally
> register it before it is done so you have the paperwork back before the
> inspection. Until you get the inspection and have an airworthiness
> certificate it is a partially completed airplane anyway so they are all
> registered before they are complete.
>
> You will trigger the sales tax man in most states by the registration so
> that is a consideration if you won't be done for a while.
>
Triggering the tax man early in the project is a *good* thing! If you
wait until the plane is nearly complete before registering (and having
the FAA inform your state revenuers there is a rich aircraft owner in
their midst), and you have not paid any sales taxes on airframe, engine,
or components, you will incur penalties and interest for late payment of
taxes.
However, if you contact your state's tax offices early in the project,
you can pay sales tax as you go and avoid the penalties and interest.
This can be done whether registration has occurred or not.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Screwy fuel flow readings |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Listers, especially those with EIS engine monitors:
I'm almost ready for my first flight but have run into a glitch with my GRT
EIS fuel flow measurement system that has me temporarily stumped. I get a
normal zero flow indication with EIS power on (engine off) but it jumps to a
steady state of about 4.5 GPH as soon as I turn on the boost pump. There is no
fuel flowing at that point. When I start the engine the indication jumps to
upwards of 19 GPH at idle and as high as 38 GPH at 2000 RPM. This with an 0-360
BTW. For those of you who are EIS users, the correct scale factor of 200 has
been entered into the EIS.
My boost pump is separated from the flow sender by at least 30 inches of
tubing and the last 12 inches before the sender is a long smooth curve. I have
checked all connections, wiring, grounds, etc., and can find nothing wrong
there. Greg at GRT is on vacation but Sandy is sending me a loaner sending unit
to
try. In the meantime if anyone has had a similar experience or has any ideas
on this I'd sure appreciate hearing from them.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final details
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
who?
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch"
>
> Before all you buy the system directly from GRT, do some shopping. There
> are a number of us GRT dealers that can save you some money and get you a
> couple of freebies too!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
>
> do not archive
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of chris macy
> To: vfrazier@usi.edu
> Subject: RV-List: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "chris macy"
>
> Vince,
>
> You are a so right about the GRT EFIS!
>
> I read up a bunch on the GRT and called them up afterwards yesterday.
>
>
> The initial cost isn't cheap but the sum of what it does now and what it
> will further grow to do in the future makes it a bargain and nothing else
> touches it for under $8K. I'm so glad I'm building slow ;-) Gave me time
> to discover these guys.
>
> lucky
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
>
>
who?
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <STEIN@STEINAIR.COM>
Before all you buy the system directly from GRT, do some shopping. There
are a number of us GRT dealers that can save you some money and get you a
couple of freebies too!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of chris macy
To: vfrazier@usi.edu
Subject: RV-List: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble
-- RV-List message posted by: "chris macy" <LUCKYMACY@COMCAST.NET>
Vince,
You are a so right about the GRT EFIS!
I read up a bun
ch on the GRT and called them up afterwards yesterday.
The initial cost isn't cheap but the sum of what it does now and what it
will further grow to do in the future makes it a bargain and nothing else
touches it for under $8K. I'm so glad I'm building slow ;-) Gave me time
to discover these guys.
lucky
do not archive
tronics.com/contribution
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Screwy fuel flow readings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Harry,
I had a bum sending unit to start with and they sent me a replacement.
Could have been a bad batch of them out there. I'd try that first.
Also, the scale factor recommended by them is a bit too high, I found.
After a lot of experimenting, I found that a setting of 170 (in other
words, 15% lower) is accurate. Also the flows will tend to read much
higher with the boost pump on. Try turning the pump off once the engine
is running and see what it does.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Allen Fulmer" <afulmer@charter.net>
I don't think stainless Is magnetic.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of steve zicree
Subject: RV-List:
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Anyone know whether my gear leg fairing hinges are stainless? They're very
thin material and sure do look like stainless, but I'm not sure. Only reason
I care is I'd love to have one less thing to prime.
Steve Zicree
RV4, wearing pants!
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: Dan Brown <dan@familybrown.org>
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
Allen Fulmer wrote:
| I don't think stainless Is magnetic.
Depends on the alloy. Some alloys of stainless are magnetic, others
are not. A quick google search found this page:
http://www.azom.com/details.asp?ArticleID=1140
...which seems to indicate that the the 300-series alloys are not
magnetic, but others are.
- --
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan@familybrown.org
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
~ -- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
iD8DBQFBjSUvyQGUivXxtkERAuCNAKDCbNOyPX7ovWIYphgEJ9JJ50hYOACgstPi
UrzFPoWX6yMBvzVD63iEqgI=2vhk
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
If they are a 300 series stainless, an easy way to tell is with a very
power full magnet like out of a dead hard drive or speaker. See how the
material sticks to it, if you can just barely feel the magnet pulling on
it then it is a 300 series stainless, if it sticks really hard it is
either 440 stainless or some other not stainless alloy, if it doesn't
pull at all it's probably a nonferrous material.
Chris W
Not getting the gifts you want? The Wish Zone can help.
http://thewishzone.com
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Special N-Number reservation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
This is going to vary quite a bit from state to state. I waited till
the end to register, and when the tax man came a'calling (which only
took a couple of weeks) I sent the receipts showing what I spent on the
project and a check for the tax. That made them happy, no penalties or
interest. Of course, I may have underestimated the amount I spent just
a wee bit. This is in Wisconsin, which is pretty much a tax hell. YMMV
state to state, talk to some other builders from your state.
Jeff Point
]RV-6
Milwaukee WI
Sam Buchanan wrote:
>Triggering the tax man early in the project is a *good* thing! If you
>wait until the plane is nearly complete before registering (and having
>the FAA inform your state revenuers there is a rich aircraft owner in
>their midst), and you have not paid any sales taxes on airframe, engine,
>or components, you will incur penalties and interest for late payment of
>taxes.
>
>However, if you contact your state's tax offices early in the project,
>you can pay sales tax as you go and avoid the penalties and interest.
>This can be done whether registration has occurred or not.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>http://thervjournal.com
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Screwy fuel flow readings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Trampas" <tstern@nc.rr.com>
If you have a multimeter check the signal on the white wire from the sensor.
The signal with no flow should be a steady voltage, or zero volts. Then
click meter to frequency measurement, should be 0Hz. Turn pump on, now see
if you still have 0Hz. If not it could be a bad sensor. Also check that the
sensor has the 12V power and ground signals.
Regards,
Trampas
www.sterntech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HCRV6@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Screwy fuel flow readings
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Listers, especially those with EIS engine monitors:
I'm almost ready for my first flight but have run into a glitch with my GRT
EIS fuel flow measurement system that has me temporarily stumped. I get a
normal zero flow indication with EIS power on (engine off) but it jumps to a
steady state of about 4.5 GPH as soon as I turn on the boost pump. There is
no
fuel flowing at that point. When I start the engine the indication jumps to
upwards of 19 GPH at idle and as high as 38 GPH at 2000 RPM. This with an
0-360
BTW. For those of you who are EIS users, the correct scale factor of 200
has
been entered into the EIS.
My boost pump is separated from the flow sender by at least 30 inches of
tubing and the last 12 inches before the sender is a long smooth curve. I
have
checked all connections, wiring, grounds, etc., and can find nothing wrong
there. Greg at GRT is on vacation but Sandy is sending me a loaner sending
unit to
try. In the meantime if anyone has had a similar experience or has any
ideas
on this I'd sure appreciate hearing from them.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final details
Message 34
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| Subject: | Heat muff for carburated engines only |
--> RV-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@allstream.net>
I just received my heat muff from
Van's
The instructions say "for carburated engines only"
Since my engine will be fuel injection I wonder why they have
this restriction?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@allstream.net
Message 35
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| Subject: | RMI - MicroMonitor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Long Report on the problem, support from the factory, and the repair of The Rocky
Mountain Instrument - MicroMonitor.
Do Not Archive
During the building process, I had to decide which engine monitor I wanted yet
could afford to install in my plane. Remember, this was before the latest several
monitors became available. Anyway, RMI unit was chosen. I have a friend
who is Electrical Engineer and he said he said it would be fun to build the unit
so the kit was ordered. During the assembly process, he reported that it
was the best electronic kit he had ever worked on. During installation, two sensors
didn't appear to work properly and the company quickly sent out replaces
after asking if we were sure that they were installed properly. Of course,
we said we were sure. After the sensors arrived, it was found the we had wired
them improperly (the company didn't say I told you so but were happy to learn
that we had solved the problem.
For the next two years, the unit worked perfectly and just as advertised. Then
the unit started to have problems. It would reset itself, lock up, and or just
display incorrect data. An email to RMI and they sent a troubleshooting manual
the next day. Again with the help of the EE, we started to find and fix
the problem. As we had not changed anything, it had to be in the "box" but test
after test showed the box was working correctly. Finally, we were able to
determine that three sensors that were acting up all used a 10 volt input. After
checking each sensor, we found that the connectors for the oil temperature
were no longer protected by shrink-wrap and was shorting out when the engine
was running. How does shrink-wrap disappear? I was sure that we never did any
maintenance on the sensor. Then I remember that we had removed the engine and
it turns out the over-haulers most likely removed the oil temperature probe.
As I had hardwired it, they had to cut the wires and it was up to us to reconnect
everything. (As a side note, when Jack Starn AKA KABONG starting helping
me over five years ago, I told him every good thing I would credit for and
he would have to accept all the blame for all the mistakes.) Therefore, Jack
didn't do a good job of putting everything back together.
Good - The RMI unit works great. The company support is excellent. Any problems
were user generated.
Bad - Jack. :-)
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
Message 36
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
Has anybody used one of these starters? I am looking to buy a starter in the
near future and ran across this one. Hope the link works, if not, the item #
is 4501640546.
Scott
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4501640546&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT
Dont just search. Find. Check out the new MSN Search!
http://search.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200636ave/direct/01/
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Screwy fuel flow readings |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Thanks Jeff. I'll try it with the boost pump off.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, final details
Message 38
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I've never seen this type but I have a Prestolite off of an O-320 Like New
for sale.
John
John@fureychrysler.com
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Prop Gov bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I am installing a MT prop governor using the VA-183 cable bracket that Vans
recommends but unless I'm missing something this bracket will not work. It
Bolts on to the large bolts at the base of the Gov. Any help would be
appreciated.
John
RV6A O-320
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Prop Gov bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I saw a bracket on an RV7 that had the cable go through an elongated hole in
the bracket and it attatched to the small screws on the Gov. Did I get a
bracket for a different Gov by mistake or does the RV7 use a different one
than a 6?? Any pictures out there?
Thanks,
John
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: RMI - MicroMonitor |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
That's good info. Why did you DNA it? I have MicroMonitor too. I put
it together and it's been working great. I'm going to un-DNA it if you
don't mind.
Tom Gummo wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>Long Report on the problem, support from the factory, and the repair of The Rocky
Mountain Instrument - MicroMonitor.
>
>
>During the building process, I had to decide which engine monitor I wanted yet
could afford to install in my plane. Remember, this was before the latest several
monitors became available. Anyway, RMI unit was chosen. I have a friend
who is Electrical Engineer and he said he said it would be fun to build the
unit so the kit was ordered. During the assembly process, he reported that it
was the best electronic kit he had ever worked on. During installation, two
sensors didn't appear to work properly and the company quickly sent out replaces
after asking if we were sure that they were installed properly. Of course,
we said we were sure. After the sensors arrived, it was found the we had wired
them improperly (the company didn't say I told you so but were happy to learn
that we had solved the problem.
>
>
>For the next two years, the unit worked perfectly and just as advertised. Then
the unit started to have problems. It would reset itself, lock up, and or just
display incorrect data. An email to RMI and they sent a troubleshooting manual
the next day. Again with the help of the EE, we started to find and fix
the problem. As we had not changed anything, it had to be in the "box" but test
after test showed the box was working correctly. Finally, we were able to
determine that three sensors that were acting up all used a 10 volt input. After
checking each sensor, we found that the connectors for the oil temperature
were no longer protected by shrink-wrap and was shorting out when the engine
was running. How does shrink-wrap disappear? I was sure that we never did any
maintenance on the sensor. Then I remember that we had removed the engine
and it turns out the over-haulers most likely removed the oil temperature probe.
As I had hardwired it, they had to cut the wires !
>and it was up to us to reconnect everything. (As a side note, when Jack Starn
AKA KABONG starting helping me over five years ago, I told him every good thing
I would credit for and he would have to accept all the blame for all the mistakes.)
Therefore, Jack didn't do a good job of putting everything back together.
>
>
>Good - The RMI unit works great. The company support is excellent. Any problems
were user generated.
>
>
>Bad - Jack. :-)
>
>
>Tom Gummo
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II
>
>
>http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Prop Gov bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://www.rvproject.com/20030722.html has some photos of my Jihostroj
(mistakenly called MT) governor and the bracket that came with the FWF kit
from Van's. The photos were taken while I was still messing with prop cable
routing.
The one with an elongated hole sounds like the older style McCauley governor
bracket. Believe that's VA-153, but I'm not positive.
As you mentioned in your previous email, for a Jihostroj governor and
VA-183, the bracket attaches to the studs where the gov'r mounts.
If it's not intuitive on your setup, maybe you could post some photos?
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Gov bracket
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> I saw a bracket on an RV7 that had the cable go through an elongated hole
in
> the bracket and it attatched to the small screws on the Gov. Did I get a
> bracket for a different Gov by mistake or does the RV7 use a different one
> than a 6?? Any pictures out there?
>
> Thanks,
> John
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Prop Gov bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Thanks for the pics. Looks just like my bracket and you seem to have made it
fit. It looked to me like it would hit the oil filter or oil line going down
to the cooler but I will take a harder look.
John
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Prop Gov bracket |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Yeah, the hose to the oil cooler was an issue. I had to use a hose with a
45-degree elbow end on it, and it worked out A-OK. Photos here:
http://www.rvproject.com/20031103.html
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop Gov bracket
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> Thanks for the pics. Looks just like my bracket and you seem to have made
it
> fit. It looked to me like it would hit the oil filter or oil line going
down
> to the cooler but I will take a harder look.
>
> John
>
>
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: RMI - MicroMonitor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Tom,
Rocky Mountain Instruments treated me to the same above and beyond the call
standard of customer service. Very satisfying indeed!
Fairings Etc. did the same!
Pacific Aero Harness (recently shut down) (|:-( was another worthy of
mention.
Jim in Kelowna
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: RMI - MicroMonitor
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
> Long Report on the problem, support from the factory, and the repair of
> The Rocky Mountain Instrument - MicroMonitor.
>
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> During the building process, I had to decide which engine monitor I wanted
> yet could afford to install in my plane. Remember, this was before the
> latest several monitors became available. Anyway, RMI unit was chosen. I
> have a friend who is Electrical Engineer and he said he said it would be
> fun to build the unit so the kit was ordered. During the assembly
> process, he reported that it was the best electronic kit he had ever
> worked on. During installation, two sensors didn't appear to work
> properly and the company quickly sent out replaces after asking if we were
> sure that they were installed properly. Of course, we said we were sure.
> After the sensors arrived, it was found the we had wired them improperly
> (the company didn't say I told you so but were happy to learn that we had
> solved the problem.
>
>
> For the next two years, the unit worked perfectly and just as advertised.
> Then the unit started to have problems. It would reset itself, lock up,
> and or just display incorrect data. An email to RMI and they sent a
> troubleshooting manual the next day. Again with the help of the EE, we
> started to find and fix the problem. As we had not changed anything, it
> had to be in the "box" but test after test showed the box was working
> correctly. Finally, we were able to determine that three sensors that
> were acting up all used a 10 volt input. After checking each sensor, we
> found that the connectors for the oil temperature were no longer protected
> by shrink-wrap and was shorting out when the engine was running. How does
> shrink-wrap disappear? I was sure that we never did any maintenance on
> the sensor. Then I remember that we had removed the engine and it turns
> out the over-haulers most likely removed the oil temperature probe. As I
> had hardwired it, they had to cut the wires !
> and it was up to us to reconnect everything. (As a side note, when Jack
> Starn AKA KABONG starting helping me over five years ago, I told him every
> good thing I would credit for and he would have to accept all the blame
> for all the mistakes.) Therefore, Jack didn't do a good job of putting
> everything back together.
>
>
> Good - The RMI unit works great. The company support is excellent. Any
> problems were user generated.
>
>
> Bad - Jack. :-)
>
>
> Tom Gummo
> Apple Valley, CA
> Harmon Rocket-II
>
> do not archive
>
> http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
>
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