Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:58 AM - List Fund Raiser - What Listers Are Saying... (Matt Dralle)
2. 04:52 AM - Celebrate Freedom/Tuskegee Airmen Event (James E. Clark)
3. 06:31 AM - Any RV'ers in Dominican Republic (Jeff Dowling)
4. 06:31 AM - Redundant engine gauges (Donald Mei)
5. 06:39 AM - Flap overspeed. (Donald Mei)
6. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (not processed: message from valid local sender) ()
7. 07:48 AM - Re: Flap overspeed. (Scott VanArtsdalen)
8. 07:48 AM - Deburring (Doug Cook)
9. 07:59 AM - QB primer topcoat paint preparation question (Mickey Coggins)
10. 08:25 AM - trained neurons (Wheeler North)
11. 08:28 AM - Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question (Scott Bilinski)
12. 08:30 AM - Re: Re: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (steve zicree)
13. 08:41 AM - Grand Rapids EFIS : Warning, long babble (Frazier, Vincent A)
14. 08:45 AM - Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question (Randy Lervold)
15. 09:13 AM - Re: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (Matt Johnson)
16. 09:18 AM - moving front stick aft 4" (Larry James)
17. 09:30 AM - (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
18. 09:37 AM - Re: Heat muff for carburated engines only (Mike Robertson)
19. 09:39 AM - Re: backup oil temperature & pressure gauge (Bill Dube)
20. 09:42 AM - Re: Re: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (Bill Dube)
21. 09:54 AM - IO snorkle to cowl baffle? (Jack Blomgren)
22. 09:55 AM - 3/16 inch bolts??? (Bill Dube)
23. 09:57 AM - Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
24. 10:14 AM - Re: moving front stick aft 4" (Mickey Coggins)
25. 10:18 AM - Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question (Kathleen@rv7.us)
26. 10:38 AM - Stall Horn (czechsix@juno.com)
27. 11:37 AM - Re: Stall Horn (GMC)
28. 11:37 AM - Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question (steve zicree)
29. 01:09 PM - Re: Stall Horn (Scott VanArtsdalen)
30. 01:47 PM - Re: RMI - MicroMonitor (Charles Rowbotham)
31. 04:24 PM - Re: Stall Horn (James H Nelson)
32. 05:22 PM - Re: IO snorkle to cowl baffle? (N67BT@aol.com)
33. 05:42 PM - Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question (Bill Schlatterer)
34. 07:12 PM - Re:Stall Horn (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
35. 07:35 PM - Re: Flying with flaps down (Allen)
36. 07:36 PM - Re: Re:Stall Horn (thomas a. sargent)
37. 08:36 PM - Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question (Vanremog@aol.com)
38. 08:36 PM - Re: Stall Horn (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | List Fund Raiser - What Listers Are Saying... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
First, I'd like say *thank you* to everyone that has already made a
Contribution to this year's List Fund Raiser! Thank you! If you haven't
made your Contribution, won't you show your support for these valuable
services today? Since there's no advertising or other forms of direct
commercialism on the forums to support the Lists, its solely YOUR
GENEROSITY that keeps them running!!
Members have been including some very nice comments along with their
Contributions this year. Please take a minute to read over some of the
thoughts your fellow Listers have expressed regarding the Lists and what
they mean to them. What do the Lists mean to you...?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Admin
The amount of information and simple entertainment I derive from the lists
you administer is enormous.
-Chris R.
The [List] digest is the one message in my inbox that I look forward to
reading every day.
-Brian U.
[The Lists] are a major asset for the homebuilder.
-Gary K.
I use, and enjoy the List all the time. It is a fantastic tool.
-Patrick M.
[The List] has already paid for itself by answering two questions that I
had concerning construction of my [Homebuilt].
-Mike L.
[The List] has provided me with very useful information and helpful
building tips.
-Michael E.
Thanks for keeping this text-only and commercial free for all us dial-up
users! Your Lists are the best...
-Mark P.
Great service, I have learned many valuable lessons from others on the
[List]...
-Malcolm T.
...great List service [for] the many and varied within the aviation community.
-David P.
...great service.
-Terry B.
...enjoy monitoring the lists.
-Ed A.
...I do enjoy the Matrix (List).
-Galen H.
Thanks for a great listserve!
-Gary S.
...GREAT lists...!
-Ray M.
It is a great service.
-Robert K.
Invaluable!
-Larry M.
[The Lists are] the backbone (along with a UK list for Europa) of my
building program.
-Fergus K.
Thanks for supporting aviation in this way.
-Reade G.
...wonderful source of info!
-Lynn M.
[The] List has certainly helped me along the way.
-Kevin S.
...excellent list.
-Ed A.
I enjoy the [the] List, and find it useful.
-John G.
An indispensable part of my day every day!
-Owen B.
A great source of help, encouragement and "partners in crime"!
-Richard T.
Great List.
-Ed K.
Couldn't have [finished my project] without your site and the help of the
guys on the List.
-Larry M.
...great service!
-Walt S.
I enjoy the [the] List everyday.
-John B.
Thank you for keeping everyone in line :) Its a great list to stay
subscribed to.
-Janet D.
...the most important resource I have to support my hobby.
-Jeff D.
Thank you for all the great features.
-Brian U.
Very valuable resource.
-Thomas S.
...great service.
-William C.
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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<OhioValleyRVators@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Celebrate Freedom/Tuskegee Airmen Event |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Just a quick note to all of the TeamRV, Falcon Flight and OVRV members that
flew in from Georgia,Texas and Ohio for this special event ...
Thank you.
You really helped us do something special.
And you made me proud on so many different levels. Clearly because of what
happened for the Airmen but in a way you probably don't realize, proud to be
part of your group as well. Just think of the many metaphors.
James E. Clark
Celebrate Freedom Foundation Board member
Chairman, 60th Anniversary Reunion of Tuskegee Airmen Event.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Any RV'ers in Dominican Republic |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Im spending 3 of the next 4 wknds in the DR. Anyone building down there?
Do not archive
Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
140 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 4
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| Subject: | Redundant engine gauges |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
This is in response to the poster who was thinking of installing redundant
oil temp and pressure gauges. I wouldn't do it. If you need to have a set
of traditional gauges because you don't trust the computerized device, then
you shouldn't bother with the $3500 computerized device in the first place.
Re stability of windows. Windows can be almost perfectly stable when it
exists within a "vacume". I.E. all inputs are of known values, there are
no network or peripheral connections, etc.
An example of this is the Avidyne (CERTIFICATED) displays. As recently as 2
years ago, they ran on a stub (software term for a version of code that
does not include all drivers) of Windows NT 4.
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
After I was signed off to fly my '4, my instructor asked for a gentlemans
agreement that I not carry passengers until I had 10 more hours of time
under my belt.
I concured that it made sense. On one of my first solo trips, I landed at
New Haven. I grabbed a coffee and taxied out for departure. I pushed the
throttle in and the tail seemed to come up much faster than usual. I
remember thinking that it was unusual, but was busy flying the plane and
resolved I'd think about it later.
The the plane popped off the runway with what appeared to be little or no
angle of attack. Hmmm.
As I left the ground, I pushed the nose over expecting the usual RV
acceleration through 120 mph during an easy cruise climb. Hmm. I wasn't
accelerating. So I looked around and noticed that my flaps were FULL down.
Total time from when I pushed the throttle in to when I retracted the flaps
was about 15 seconds. Airspeed never got over 90 mph. It was very very
obvious that something was not right.
It now seems inconceivable that someone could fly around with full flaps and
not notice the airplane SHOUTING at them is, if not wrong, then at least
very different. But thats not fair. To a new RV pilot, I'd bet an RV with
full flaps accelerates and climbs about as well as most spam cans. When I
realized my flaps were fully down, I was still climbing at 700 fpm. Better
than the 152 I had done my primary training in could do on a good day.
With that said, RETRACT FLAPS is now on my engine start checklist. If I
want them down for a short field takeoff, then I lower them again after my
runup.
Also, just prior to taking the runway, I have a flow that I use. I start at
the top right of the instrument panel and work my way down the left
bulkhead. It includes a check for:
Oil pressure
fuel pressure
boost pump
flap position
mixture
pitch trim
Don
"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Steve & Listers,
I purchased an entire set of the single flute countersinks from Avery Tools on
the advice of folks on the RV List. For use with a high speed pneumatic drill,
they do offer an advantage. However they also have a down side. The single hole
tends to get clogged up with cutting chips. Constantly clearing out the chips
slows down progress noticibly.
I've found that using the standard 3 flute countersinks using a slower speed electric
drill works best. The standard countersinks are also cheaper to purchase.
Charlie Kuss
>
> From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
> Date: 2004/11/07 Sun PM 10:03:18 EST
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Flap overspeed. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
One of the exercises that Mike Seager put me through during RV
transition training was taking off with the flaps down. At least in the
RV-6 I couldn't tell the difference. But that was with only .3 hours of
RV flight time. I'd sure know now. I've got to agree with the
others... checklists!
Donald Mei wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Donald Mei" <don_mei@hotmail.com>
>
>After I was signed off to fly my '4, my instructor asked for a gentlemans
>agreement that I not carry passengers until I had 10 more hours of time
>under my belt.
>
>I concured that it made sense. On one of my first solo trips, I landed at
>New Haven. I grabbed a coffee and taxied out for departure. I pushed the
>throttle in and the tail seemed to come up much faster than usual. I
>remember thinking that it was unusual, but was busy flying the plane and
>resolved I'd think about it later.
>
>The the plane popped off the runway with what appeared to be little or no
>angle of attack. Hmmm.
>
>As I left the ground, I pushed the nose over expecting the usual RV
>acceleration through 120 mph during an easy cruise climb. Hmm. I wasn't
>accelerating. So I looked around and noticed that my flaps were FULL down.
>
>Total time from when I pushed the throttle in to when I retracted the flaps
>was about 15 seconds. Airspeed never got over 90 mph. It was very very
>obvious that something was not right.
>
>It now seems inconceivable that someone could fly around with full flaps and
>not notice the airplane SHOUTING at them is, if not wrong, then at least
>very different. But thats not fair. To a new RV pilot, I'd bet an RV with
>full flaps accelerates and climbs about as well as most spam cans. When I
>realized my flaps were fully down, I was still climbing at 700 fpm. Better
>than the 152 I had done my primary training in could do on a good day.
>
>With that said, RETRACT FLAPS is now on my engine start checklist. If I
>want them down for a short field takeoff, then I lower them again after my
>runup.
>
>Also, just prior to taking the runway, I have a flow that I use. I start at
>the top right of the instrument panel and work my way down the left
>bulkhead. It includes a check for:
>
>Oil pressure
>fuel pressure
>boost pump
>flap position
>mixture
>pitch trim
>
>Don
>
>
>"All of us need to be reminded that the federal government did not create
>the states; the states created the federal government!"---Ronald Reagan
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Cook" <Dugcook@cox.net>
Try countersinking with a cordless screwdriver. Get the hex adapter and countersink
from Avery - Best tool I've used. The slow speed of the cordless screwdriver
gives excellent control for countersinking.
Message 9
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| Subject: | QB primer topcoat paint preparation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
What is the best way to prepare the Van's QB wash primer for
a top coat? I was thinking something like windex to get the
big dirt and dust off, then coming back with some kind of
solvent to finish it off. I tried acetone, but it takes
the primer right off. Anyone have any hints on what
solvent to use?
Also, do you think I need to go back with a scotchbrite pad?
Many thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 10
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Careful there Suzie Q,
millions of trained neurons is a dangerous thing to admit.
One might think you are organized as well.
In fact one might think you are so organized that you should have plenty of
free time to do things like be a volunteer at a fly in, rather then doing
something useful like hanging out at an airport building airplanes with a
dedicated two neuron focus.
;{)
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Find out which wash primer it is. Some require that a top coat is applied
with in 8 hrs of application.
At 04:56 PM 11/8/2004 +0100, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Hi,
>
>What is the best way to prepare the Van's QB wash primer for
>a top coat? I was thinking something like windex to get the
>big dirt and dust off, then coming back with some kind of
>solvent to finish it off. I tried acetone, but it takes
>the primer right off. Anyone have any hints on what
>solvent to use?
>
>Also, do you think I need to go back with a scotchbrite pad?
>
>Many thanks,
>Mickey
>
>--
>Mickey Coggins
>http://www.rv8.ch/
>#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
True. I sprayed the little guys with PAM and it helps with this problem.
Steve
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: Re: RV-List: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (not processed:
message from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Steve & Listers,
> I purchased an entire set of the single flute countersinks from Avery
Tools on the advice of folks on the RV List. For use with a high speed
pneumatic drill, they do offer an advantage. However they also have a down
side. The single hole tends to get clogged up with cutting chips. Constantly
clearing out the chips slows down progress noticibly.
> I've found that using the standard 3 flute countersinks using a slower
speed electric drill works best. The standard countersinks are also cheaper
to purchase.
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >
> > From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
> > Date: 2004/11/07 Sun PM 10:03:18 EST
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (not
processed: message from valid local sender)
> >
> >
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Grand Rapids EFIS : Warning, long babble |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
This should have appeared last week, but somehow my address book didn't
get it to the RV list.
Vince ... my replies marked with *****
Vince,
I'm starting to warm up to the idea of the GRT EFIS & EIS combo. It's a
lot of eggs in one basket should something fail in flight (and at work
it's not uncommon for our flight rated MFDs to degrade/fail in the labs)
*****I can't speak for reliability with only 5+ hours but so far, mine
works perfectly.
and personally I have this fear about the plane being broken into for
easy to steal higher priced avionics. This seems a tempting target. Oh
well.
*****I can say that any moron who is dumb enough to try to steal one
should be shot for being a moron. I say this because the unit could be
easily traced (small market) and because there is so much stuff behind
the panel to remove that it would be nigh impossible to get it out in
one piece. Also the magnetometer is in the wing. I'm sure there are
folks out there who would buy an unboxed unit with cut wires hanging
off, no documentation, and no accessories but SHEESH... Well, shoot them
too.
OK, so it's the best idea since sliced bread. But what are the current
annoyances with it? ******It needs to interface with a DVD player, an
the most important one. INFLIGHT WX WOULD ABSOLUTEY RULE!
Any false alarms generated like typical startup conditions before ideal
tolerances are obtainable? ****No. The oil pressure and fuel pressure
give an alarm, but they go away as soon as you get things going. You
want them to alarm when the engine isn't running in order to check the
system and sensors.
I purposely did NOT use the audible alarm function. The blinking panel
light and onscreen warnings are quite enough, particularly during the
first few flights when you are tweaking limits. I'd wager that if the
audible warnings were on, you'd take your headset off for the first 5
hours... and that's not good. I might hook up the audible warning buzzer
later, but probably not.
Do you use the altitude encoder to your TX? ****Yes
They show no pictures of anything but main displays. Do you have any
pictures of the setup menus? ****No, but they are quite easy and
straightforward on the EFIS. The EIS requires you to read the manual
VERY closely.... but it's not a big deal after you've seen it.
For example, a common action would be to setup barometric pressure.
****The baro knob is active on the PFD of the EFIS. All you do is turn
it. No different than having an ordinary altimeter.
How many steps and what buttons/knob combinations get you there. I hope
it's not all push button for this. ****No problems at all.
How accurate is the heading and what were the considerations they have
about mounting it near a wing tip strobe power pack? How involved in
calibrating it and the rest of the sensors? ****The heading seems right
on to me right out of the box. I have mine mounted near the strobe head
and haven't noticed any ill effect.
Calibrating the EIS sensors for CHT, EGT, oil pressure, fuel pressure
requires little or no work. The fuel flow and fuel level sensors have a
calibration instruction page. The fuel level is easy enough. The fuel
flow requires burning a few tanks of gas to validate. I'm burning the
gas as fast as the wx will allow!
I have float type fuel senders - any issue there? No. Any other
installation nice to knows along those kind of lines? ***Not that I can
think of.
I want to use the MFD as the ammeter for the whole plane. Did you and if
so what did it take to make that happen? ****Yes. I bought their ammeter
thingy. Hall effect sensor, IIRC. It is a coil that you simply run the
alternator wire through. Mine monitors the alternator wire just before
the main buss, IIRC.
The GPS page is sparce and more Software is promised in the future. What
can it do now and what's the latest on when they will updgrade it? ****I
haven't had time to fully explore the GPS pages yet, but they're very
nice. I bought a new Lowrance 1000 unit so I'd have a backup if the EFIS
ever fried. It's not really necessary. I could have (maybe should have?)
bought a CHEAP $100 GPS to drive the EFIS map and it would have been
just fine.
More specifically, the EFIS map shows airports, extended centerlines,
obstacles, soon to have terrain IIRC, and who knows what else? I'm still
exploring it.
What are the limitations and usefullness of the G-meter readings?
****You simply turn in on in the EFIS setup menu and it pops up in the
lower left of the screen. It's fun to watch it. 2 Gs are all I've pulled
so far.... still getting engine squawks and other items fixed... acro to
come later.
I haven't found any picture of it on their display. Is it actually
usable during acro and does it keep the max high/low or just show
instanteaous in small font? ****Um, I'm not sure about the min max
memory but I'll bet that it does.
I see no notice about an online user's manual other than one is going to
be out late but that was a while ago. Do you have a soft copy of one you
could send? ****I have a preliminary manual, but I'd prefer not to send
it out. GRT is supposed to have a real manual out soon. Mine has no
screen shots and has a few blank spots in it still.
Thanks!
Lucky Macy
*****FWIW, my backups for the EFIS are an LRI angle of attack device,
which is very nice, BTW, a wet compass, a Navaid w/skidball, and the
Lowrance GPS, which will run fine on the internal battery if the main
battery pukes. I don't intend to fly IFR with this but probably could if
I wanted to, but this is a sportplane!
> No, they don't pay me to say this stuff....but they should!!!
>
> Vince Frazier
> F-1H Rocket, N540VF
> http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html
<http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/page1.html>
________________________________
From: chris macy [mailto:luckymacy@comcast.net]
Subject: GRT efis and panel paint: Warning, long babble
Vince,
You are a so right about the GRT EFIS!
I read up a bunch on the GRT and called them up afterwards yesterday.
In short, I was impressed and ordered it. The more I thought about how
the relatively low cost systems like this probably calculate their pitch
and heading info I think theirs is the safest if you were actually
depending your life upon it with respect to accuracy of displayed info.
Their web site and BMTs and other web sites are there for others to
study and ask the companies questions. Here's a starter.
http://www.grtavionics.com/compare.htm
Can you tell me more specifically how responsive & accurate the wind
speed and direction info is as far as you can tell? Have you ever seen
the wind sock shift on way and the graphics not change or lag a lot?
***** not that I can tell
One of the things we talked about was my G-meter idea and Todd seemed to
really like it. Here's what he wrote back to me after the conversation
"We have no problem adding features like this. We are going to add
optional voice indication of the G meter and tone. We will be working
on a separate page for Acro. We welcome any suggestions you may have."
Love these guys already.
They sent me a few attachments including a full size screen shot showing
the G meter stuff. It's great. I'll attach it. It already shows max
high/low and current.
The thing that really sold me was that 10 page impressions of usage
http://www.grtavionics.com/Impressions.htm
Have you ever tried that HITS down to the runway as the one usage write
up did? Looked cool and a real potential last resort life saver if one
was in a legit holy you know what weather bind, engine out, what have
you. ***** I haven't figured out the HITS yet. I've only got 6.1 hours
on the plane and other items have been more important.
As an avionics test guy for Boeing by profession myself, I can relate to
the Boeing guy doing the design. I think it would be an awesome toy for
a Boeing pilot by trade to stick on of these in his plane. The design is
so open ended and has so much growth potential that the new tricks like
weather and traffic and textured terrain will continue to roll out for
years to come and they insist the SW will continue to be free. Wow.
For my personal taste, the immediate Dynon shortcomings it overcomes is
that it's not all push buttons and the display is the "right" size and
width for my RV8 and getting older eyes. And it's engine monitor page
really blows me away. I'm an idiot for not looking at it sooner. Stuff
like the time history and the percent power displayed are just so cool.
I feel dumb now for whacking their GPS page. I know when it's finished
it will look as good if not better than anything else in the price
range. But it's actually very good right now. You just have to read
the details on what it does and reacts to where you are flying. The
internal GPS is now an option and so the new SW has mission planning
built in. It's not Star Wars yet but it's functional and enough to
accompany the new HW.
The initial cost isn't cheap but the sum of what it does now and what it
will further grow to do in the future makes it a bargain and nothing
else touches it for under $8K. I'm so glad I'm building slow ;-) Gave
me time to discover these guys.
Vince you are a genius! ;-) Thanks a bunch for directing me towards
them. ********GENIUS? Please tell my wife.
BTW, what brand of panel paint did you use on the panel? It looks
textured and flat. ******** Krylon Wrinkle paint.
Looking forward to comparing notes with you in the future on it.
******* me too.
lucky
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Naptha, aka Coleman Fuel.
Randy Lervold
> Hi,
>
> What is the best way to prepare the Van's QB wash primer for
> a top coat? I was thinking something like windex to get the
> big dirt and dust off, then coming back with some kind of
> solvent to finish it off. I tried acetone, but it takes
> the primer right off. Anyone have any hints on what
> solvent to use?
>
> Also, do you think I need to go back with a scotchbrite pad?
>
> Many thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: Countersinks on Wing Spar... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I found that by using an electric drill the slow speed prevented the chipping on
the inside diameter. I cleaned up my previous ones with a
dremel and smooth bit. But all new holes are being done with an electric drill
and they are coming out nice with no chipping.
- Matt Johnson
www.rv7a.com
-----Original Message-----
From: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
>
> Don't know if it will make a difference in your situation, but I've
> found
> that the single flute countersinks do a much nicer job than the
> multi-fluted
> type.
>
> Steve Zicree
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Countersinks on Wing Spar... (not processed: message
> from
> valid local sender)
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
> >
> > I was cutting the countersink holes for the screw attach holes for
> the
> fuel tank. My problem is that I noticed after the countersink is done,
> > the inside hole at the bottom of the countersink is not perfectly
> round,
> in fact some are quite jagged. I am wondering, is this a problem? and
> > how do you prevent it?
> >
> > - Matt
> > www.rv7a.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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|
"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | moving front stick aft 4" |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry James" <larry@ncproto.com>
I spent this weekend solving one of my few complaints with RV's; that being
that the control stick is placed forward such that the pilot has to extend
their arm a fair amount in normal flying. I personally prefer the control
stick to be closer to me so that I have complete range of motion (with no
interference) while maintaining a comfortable reclined seating position.
This can be done; I sacrificed a stock RV-4 control torque tube weldment
over the weekend and worked out all the geometry that ultimately moved the
front stick aft a full 4.0". This placement feels very good. I will now
build the proper fixturing and make a new control torque tube from scratch
without the cobble. I just wanted to let people know that this change is
not that hard.
Larry E. James
Bellevue, WA
HR2 fuselage
Message 17
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|
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
FYI for those interested in some common space to share and learn info about the
Grand Rapids Tech EFIS, Graphic Engine Monitoring and Moving Map Display.
* Your group information:
Group name: GRT_EFIS
Group home page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS
Group email address: GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com
FYI for those interested in some common space to share and learn info about the
Grand Rapids Tech EFIS, Graphic Engine Monitoring and Moving Map Display.
* Your group information:
Group name: GRT_EFIS
Group home page: http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS
Group email address: GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Heat muff for carburated engines only |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Usually it is because the exhaust pipes are routed differently for fuel
injected engines and the heat muff for carburated engines may not fit. Try
it and see if it fits. If it does then you are OK.
Mike Robertson
>From: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@allstream.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "Matronics rv list" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Heat muff for carburated engines only
>Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2004 16:31:32 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "GEORGE INMAN" <ghinman@allstream.net>
>
> I just received my heat muff from
> Van's
> The instructions say "for carburated engines
>only"
> Since my engine will be fuel injection I wonder why they have
> this restriction?
>
>
>GEORGE H. INMAN
>ghinman@allstream.net
>
>
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: backup oil temperature & pressure gauge |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 09:47 AM 11/7/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
>
>I ordered the double function pressure switch from vans and therefore
>have a backup which is a low pressure warning. I like it.
This is the way to go. "Idiot" lights serve as a back-up for the
gauges and as a back-up for an inattentive pilot. Nice to have them on oil
pressure, temperature, voltage, and especially fuel.
An oil pressure idiot light naturally self-tests during the
starting sequence. It can be a bit tricky to get the other functions to
self-test, but is possible. Press-to-test type indicators are a
possibility, but only test the bulb, not the circuit or the sensor.
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Countersinks on Wing Spar... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
I found that if you run the drill slowly, and press down on the cage very
firmly, the countersinks come out pretty well. A little duct tape on the
face of the cage helps too.
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | IO snorkle to cowl baffle? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
-8 Builders with IO-360 using Van's VA-132 horizonal induction snorkle,
Installation Instructions with the above snorkle induction system are very
sparce and with illustrations no help to me in mating the snorkle in the
area of Van's cowl baffle part 3 (forward left front side). An example of
some confusion, the top left side of the snorkle is about an inch further
outboard than the forward projecting cowl baffle part 3. Does anyone have
more info, drawings, measurments and/or photos to clarify this area?
Examples of how others solved the marriage of the snorkle (with filter) to
this baffling will be much appreciated.
Thanks,
Jack,
Red Wing, MN
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | 3/16 inch bolts??? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
While building the wing, I found it amusing that the instructions called
for "3/16 inch bolts" to attach the jig bracket (angle) to the outboard
wing rib. I wonder how many folks have gone to the hardware store and
naively asked for 3/16 inch bolts. Kind of like being sent out for a
"frammis" or a bucket of prop wash. :-)
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | QB primer topcoat paint preparation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
If you intend to so any real painting at all, you really should pick up
a quart of wax/degreaser from you local auto paint supplier. This is
what you to wipe the surface with prior to any paint.
Coleman is a very good degreaser and cheap cheap. But it is not the same
as the wax/degreaser for sure. They do not smell the same, nor apply the
same. I use the coleman to pre-wipe parts, gets all that oily crud off,
then a final wipe with the wax/degreaser just before paint.
I am not a painter but I spent nights and weekends for 6 weeks on my 6
in a professional automotive paint shop that paints high end stuff
(jags, Mercedes, and BMW's), and this wax/degreaser liquid was sprayed
on as the last weapon before either primer or paint was applied.
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Subject: Re: RV-List: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Naptha, aka Coleman Fuel.
Randy Lervold
> Hi,
>
> What is the best way to prepare the Van's QB wash primer for
> a top coat? I was thinking something like windex to get the
> big dirt and dust off, then coming back with some kind of
> solvent to finish it off. I tried acetone, but it takes
> the primer right off. Anyone have any hints on what
> solvent to use?
>
> Also, do you think I need to go back with a scotchbrite pad?
>
> Many thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: moving front stick aft 4" |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Is the position of your stick going to be much different
that this one:
http://www.rvwoody.com/Stick.html
I've got one of these, and the stock stick. I'll
try the both and see which one I like better.
Mickey
>... I sacrificed a stock RV-4 control torque tube weldment
>over the weekend and worked out all the geometry that ultimately moved the
>front stick aft a full 4.0". This placement feels very good. I will now
>build the proper fixturing and make a new control torque tube from scratch
>without the cobble. I just wanted to let people know that this change is
>not that hard. ...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | QB primer topcoat paint preparation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kathleen@rv7.us
I'm not counting on the these protective primers to support a base coat.
I'm removing them where I want to paint and spraying an etching primer
first, scuffing and then shooting the base coat/top coat. I think it will
be a more durable finish when you can be sure of the compatibility of the
products...
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
What is the best way to prepare the Van's QB wash primer for
a top coat? I was thinking something like windex to get the
big dirt and dust off, then coming back with some kind of
solvent to finish it off. I tried acetone, but it takes
the primer right off. Anyone have any hints on what
solvent to use?
Also, do you think I need to go back with a scotchbrite pad?
Many thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 26
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
Does anyone know of a source for a cheap stall warning horn similar in sound to
what's used on spam cans? I made my own spam-style stall vane/tab that I'm putting
in the LE of the wing. I bought a piezo alarm from Digikey for something
like $1 but it sounds like a fire alarm....it's a bit more shrill and shocking
than I want. Aircraft Spruce sells a Safe Flight stall horn with light for
$740.00. You read that right...$740! That doesn't include the vane. So anyway,
if somebody knows of a non-aircraft source for such a beastie please let
me know...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D wiring...
Sign up for Juno Today at http://www.juno.com!
Look for special offers at Best Buy stores.
Message 27
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Mark
If you use a audio stall warning alarm it will need to be loud to hear it
above engine noise and past your headset, also possibly under great stress
in bad weather! To prevent alarming my passengers on landing I decided to
just used a red light adjacent to the airspeed indicator on my 6A, works
great except that I cannot see it during pre-flight inspection.
On the 7A I am building my stall warning will be a dome shaped red light
mounted up through the glare shield in my direct line of forward vision and
also visible during walk around (it is interesting to see the stall light
come on momentarily at 150 IAS during a roll).
In my opinion the Safe Flight stall warning system is the biggest rip-off in
all of aviation, my complete system will cost less than $25.
George in Langley
-----Original Message-----
--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
Guys,
Does anyone know of a source for a cheap stall warning horn similar in sound
to what's used on spam cans? I made my own spam-style stall vane/tab that
I'm putting in the LE of the wing. I bought a piezo alarm from Digikey for
something like $1 but it sounds like a fire alarm....it's a bit more shrill
and shocking than I want. Aircraft Spruce sells a Safe Flight stall horn
with light for $740.00. You read that right...$740! That doesn't include
the vane. So anyway, if somebody knows of a non-aircraft source for such a
beastie please let me know...
Thanks,
--Mark Navratil
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
RV-8A N2D wiring...
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "steve zicree" <szicree@adelphia.net>
It should also be noted that the type of cloth you use can have a big impact
on the amount of lint. Also, once clean, be sure to use a tack cloth to get
the last of the lint.
Steve Zicree
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
> If you intend to so any real painting at all, you really should pick up
> a quart of wax/degreaser from you local auto paint supplier. This is
> what you to wipe the surface with prior to any paint.
>
> Coleman is a very good degreaser and cheap cheap. But it is not the same
> as the wax/degreaser for sure. They do not smell the same, nor apply the
> same. I use the coleman to pre-wipe parts, gets all that oily crud off,
> then a final wipe with the wax/degreaser just before paint.
>
> I am not a painter but I spent nights and weekends for 6 weeks on my 6
> in a professional automotive paint shop that paints high end stuff
> (jags, Mercedes, and BMW's), and this wax/degreaser liquid was sprayed
> on as the last weapon before either primer or paint was applied.
>
> Mike Stewart
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
> Naptha, aka Coleman Fuel.
>
> Randy Lervold
>
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > What is the best way to prepare the Van's QB wash primer for
> > a top coat? I was thinking something like windex to get the
> > big dirt and dust off, then coming back with some kind of
> > solvent to finish it off. I tried acetone, but it takes
> > the primer right off. Anyone have any hints on what
> > solvent to use?
> >
> > Also, do you think I need to go back with a scotchbrite pad?
> >
> > Many thanks,
> > Mickey
> >
> > --
> > Mickey Coggins
> > http://www.rv8.ch/
> > #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
What about a "backup" beeper? Kind of like the beeper that comes with
the MicroMonitor. Sounds like a truck backing up but it get's your
attention. I like the light idea too.
czechsix@juno.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "czechsix@juno.com" <czechsix@juno.com>
>
>
>Guys,
>
>Does anyone know of a source for a cheap stall warning horn similar in sound to
what's used on spam cans? I made my own spam-style stall vane/tab that I'm
putting in the LE of the wing. I bought a piezo alarm from Digikey for something
like $1 but it sounds like a fire alarm....it's a bit more shrill and shocking
than I want. Aircraft Spruce sells a Safe Flight stall horn with light for
$740.00. You read that right...$740! That doesn't include the vane. So anyway,
if somebody knows of a non-aircraft source for such a beastie please let
me know...
>
>Thanks,
>
>--Mark Navratil
>Cedar Rapids, Iowa
>RV-8A N2D wiring...
>
>Sign up for Juno Today at http://www.juno.com!
>Look for special offers at Best Buy stores.
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | RMI - MicroMonitor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
All,
My experience as well, Highly Recommend RMI
Chuck& Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: RMI - MicroMonitor
>Date: Sat, 6 Nov 2004 16:32:32 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
>
>Long Report on the problem, support from the factory, and the repair of The
>Rocky Mountain Instrument - MicroMonitor.
>
>
>Do Not Archive
>
>
>During the building process, I had to decide which engine monitor I wanted
>yet could afford to install in my plane. Remember, this was before the
>latest several monitors became available. Anyway, RMI unit was chosen. I
>have a friend who is Electrical Engineer and he said he said it would be
>fun to build the unit so the kit was ordered. During the assembly process,
>he reported that it was the best electronic kit he had ever worked on.
>During installation, two sensors didn't appear to work properly and the
>company quickly sent out replaces after asking if we were sure that they
>were installed properly. Of course, we said we were sure. After the
>sensors arrived, it was found the we had wired them improperly (the company
>didn't say I told you so but were happy to learn that we had solved the
>problem.
>
>
>For the next two years, the unit worked perfectly and just as advertised.
>Then the unit started to have problems. It would reset itself, lock up,
>and or just display incorrect data. An email to RMI and they sent a
>troubleshooting manual the next day. Again with the help of the EE, we
>started to find and fix the problem. As we had not changed anything, it
>had to be in the "box" but test after test showed the box was working
>correctly. Finally, we were able to determine that three sensors that were
>acting up all used a 10 volt input. After checking each sensor, we found
>that the connectors for the oil temperature were no longer protected by
>shrink-wrap and was shorting out when the engine was running. How does
>shrink-wrap disappear? I was sure that we never did any maintenance on the
>sensor. Then I remember that we had removed the engine and it turns out
>the over-haulers most likely removed the oil temperature probe. As I had
>hardwired it, they had to cut the wires !
>and it was up to us to reconnect everything. (As a side note, when Jack
>Starn AKA KABONG starting helping me over five years ago, I told him every
>good thing I would credit for and he would have to accept all the blame for
>all the mistakes.) Therefore, Jack didn't do a good job of putting
>everything back together.
>
>
>Good - The RMI unit works great. The company support is excellent. Any
>problems were user generated.
>
>
>Bad - Jack. :-)
>
>
>Tom Gummo
>Apple Valley, CA
>Harmon Rocket-II
>
>do not archive
>
>http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
>
>
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Mark,
The Europa aircraft (glass) uses a pressure transducer that has a
port in the leading edge around the 16 degree angle point and they adjust
the transducer to trip at the speed they want. You could set it for 5
mph over stall or what ever you want. the contacts can run what ever
alarm you want. Kind of neat way to do it.
Jim
RV9A
N599RV (reserved)
(ex owner of an Europa- nice plane)
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: IO snorkle to cowl baffle? |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
Jack,
I have a couple of photos on my web site of what I did on my 7A. I think
the 8 is similar. There's also a photo of my Whirl Wind Prop there for those
interested.
http://users.aol.com/n67bt
Bob Trumpfheller
<<-8 Builders with IO-360 using Van's VA-132 horizonal induction snorkle,----
Jack,
Red Wing, MN>>
Message 33
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| Subject: | QB primer topcoat paint preparation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
More specifically, Dupont 3939S Enamel and Lacquer Cleaner. Metal prep and
not as hot(stong) as normal lacquer thinner or some solvents that will strip
primers. Has much lower flash point so it evaporates slower which makes
cleaning easier. BTW, it won't easily wipe off Sharpie lines like normal
thinners will. Available at any auto parts store or paint specialty shop
that handles Dupont paint (PPG & SW have equivalents).
Bill S
Maumelle, Ark
7a QB fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael
(ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RE: RV-List: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
If you intend to so any real painting at all, you really should pick up
a quart of wax/degreaser from you local auto paint supplier. This is
what you to wipe the surface with prior to any paint.
Coleman is a very good degreaser and cheap cheap. But it is not the same
as the wax/degreaser for sure. They do not smell the same, nor apply the
same. I use the coleman to pre-wipe parts, gets all that oily crud off,
then a final wipe with the wax/degreaser just before paint.
I am not a painter but I spent nights and weekends for 6 weeks on my 6
in a professional automotive paint shop that paints high end stuff
(jags, Mercedes, and BMW's), and this wax/degreaser liquid was sprayed
on as the last weapon before either primer or paint was applied.
Mike Stewart
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Randy Lervold
Subject: Re: RV-List: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Naptha, aka Coleman Fuel.
Randy Lervold
> Hi,
>
> What is the best way to prepare the Van's QB wash primer for
> a top coat? I was thinking something like windex to get the
> big dirt and dust off, then coming back with some kind of
> solvent to finish it off. I tried acetone, but it takes
> the primer right off. Anyone have any hints on what
> solvent to use?
>
> Also, do you think I need to go back with a scotchbrite pad?
>
> Many thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 34
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--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
If you need a horn to tell you when your RV is about to quit flying - then
you aren't flying enough !!!!!!!!!!!!!1
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 35
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| Subject: | Flying with flaps down |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Allen" <ajdubers@comcast.net>
If he had full flaps I bet he couldn't climb and get much more than
100-110mph.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Flying with flaps down
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Fellow RVers,
This friend of mine has an RV-7A just like mine. He took off from an
airport
after a fuel stop, and flew about 5 miles with the flaps full down. I'm
sure
he was well over the white arc, maybe 150 mph. When he got to his
destination he looked everything over, and can find no damage. Has
anyone else ever
done this? I just want to put my, err I mean his, mind at ease.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying 64 hours)
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@earthlink.net>
Rather than a stall warning, I think some sort of angle of attack
indicator is much more useful. There are several on the market.
Everything I've read indicates that AOA is a good thing to have.
I've got one.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: QB primer topcoat paint preparation question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 11/8/2004 8:46:11 AM Pacific Standard Time,
randy@romeolima.com writes:
Naptha, aka Coleman Fuel.
It's Naphtha, people! Say it with me three times...really fast. I have no
idea what Naptha is, but I do know what NAFTA is.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 11/8/2004 10:40:12 AM Pacific Standard Time,
czechsix@juno.com writes:
Does anyone know of a source for a cheap stall warning horn similar in sound
to what's used on spam cans?
===========================================
ACI ROWLANDS LTD has one. They are listed in the Yeller Pages.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A C/S, flying 725 hrs)
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