Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:22 AM - Re: gas struts pull canopy frame fwd (LarryRobertHelming)
2. 09:38 AM - Re: gas struts pull canopy frame fwd (Edward Cole)
3. 12:10 PM - Engine Supplier (Jim Thorne)
4. 05:18 PM - Re: Engine Supplier (Evan and Megan Johnson)
5. 05:19 PM - Wanted Porcine Smart Coupler (Jerry Springer)
6. 05:19 PM - "sunny" So. Calif... (JOHN STARN)
7. 06:30 PM - Using Sikaflex for Canopy Installation (JEllis9847@aol.com)
8. 07:32 PM - (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
9. 08:08 PM - Re: (linn walters)
10. 08:25 PM - Plenums (Emrath)
11. 11:36 PM - Re: Using Sikaflex for Canopy Installation (Mickey Coggins)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: gas struts pull canopy frame fwd |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I had the same problem. I redrilled the holes through the aluminum braces
that the plastic blocks are mounted in. I did this redrilling after
riveting on 1/8" plates on both sides to hold the load of the mounting
screws that hold the block in place. Had to move it about an 1/8" as I
recall. It was a lot of extra work but it is very solid now after it is all
done. I also installed the optional reinforcement kit for the canopy frame
but that is worthwhile and needed anyway.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
- Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
----- Original Message -----
Subject: RV-List: gas struts pull canopy frame fwd
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen"
<wayne@pedersentransport.com>
>
> I just finished installing the gas struts on my -7a tip up canopy. Worked
> great until I noticed that the pressure from the struts in the closed
> position pulled the canopy frame 3/16's of an inch forward ! This movement
> ruins all the trimming filling etc and there must be an easy solution.
>
> I have yet to install the canopy. I plan on installing the canopy without
> the struts hooked up and when the canopy is in it permanent position will
> it hold the frame in the proper place ?
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | gas struts pull canopy frame fwd |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole@comcast.net>
I did the same thing, only instead of bolts I got a couple of felt lined
furniture feet from Home Depot.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
RV6A N648RV Finishing
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Point
Subject: Re: RV-List: gas struts pull canopy frame fwd
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I noticed the same thing. What I did was to put a 1/4 inch bolt in the
tooling holes bulkhead forward of the panel, with the heads facing aft.
Put nuts on the bolt on either side of the bulkhead, so you can adjust
how far aft the head is. When the canopy closes it will contact the
bolt heads and prevent it from being pulled forward. It does take some
trial and error to get the bolts adjusted right. I wish I had a picture
to make this more clear, next time I'm at the airport I can take one if
this doesn't make any sense.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
Has anyone bought an engine (ECI) from American Propeller Service in Redding, CA?
Met them at OSH and they seemed liked a pretty decent operation, of course
the sales guys are always that way. Just curious getting close to getting some
final bids for my engine. Do not archive
Jim Thorne
7A QB
CHD
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Supplier |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
I actually live in Redding and they certainly do have a good reputation
around here. I don't know those guys so I don't think I'm too biased. I've
seen lots of the propellers they have built and some of them have been
spectacular (custom paint jobs) . I recently called them for a quote on an
MT electric constant speed for my RV 10 project and they were kind enough to
let me know that the best place to buy was through Vans. Even though it was
probably going to cost them a sale, they were willing to help. They seem
like stand up fellows to me.
Evan
www.evansaviationproducts.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Engine Supplier
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Thorne" <rv7a@cox.net>
>
> Has anyone bought an engine (ECI) from American Propeller Service in
Redding, CA? Met them at OSH and they seemed liked a pretty decent
operation, of course the sales guys are always that way. Just curious
getting close to getting some final bids for my engine. Do not archive
>
> Jim Thorne
> 7A QB
> CHD
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Wanted Porcine Smart Coupler |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Anyone have a Smart Coupler that they have decided not to use? I need
one to couple my Garmin 295
to my Navaid.
Jerry
do not archive
Message 6
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"rocket-list" <rocket-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | "sunny" So. Calif... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
If you recall we at APV brag about the 360 days we have sunny (windy at
times but sunny) weather. Well today is one of the 4-5 days a year where we
have less than perfect weather. Yes Georgia today it's snowing in Apple
Valley. Not a lot & it melts soon after contact with the ground but the sky
is heavy overcast gray with wet snow. Got to find something to do inside
'cause it's 31 degrees outside. KABONG (GBA & GWB) 8*)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Using Sikaflex for Canopy Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: JEllis9847@aol.com
Gluing the tip up canopy on my 9A has been a real learning experience that I'd
like to share with everyone.
Several builders have sent me questions about the procedure since a note that I
posted to the List a few days ago. Guess that there are several people that
would like to know more.
I highly recommend the Sikaflex 295UV. (Comes in black or white.) Black is recommended.
You will need two or three 10.5 ounce tubes plus one pint of the Sika
209 Primer and one pint of the Sika 229 Cleaner. One pint of each would probably
do two canopies.
On the front canopy edge I taped, cleaned, and primed about 3/4" on the inside
and the outside of Plexiglas. I also primed the edge. I set the canopy down into
a bead of adhesive on the cowl. If I did it again I would position the canopy
and run a bead of adhesive along the outside edge and let it set overnite.
A gap of about 1/8" between the plastic and the cowl skin is a good thing.
You can use rubber garden hose washers to maintain the gap. Just be sure not
to glue them in. After the adhesive sets you can pull them out and add more
adhesive in their place. You can then go back later and run a bead of adhesive
on the inside.
I built up a fairing about 1 1/4" wide around the whole front edge with the Sikaflex
using a curved squeegee and vinyl electrical tape as a guide. The great
thing is the adhesive sands very well with 220 grit open coat paper. No fiberglass!
You can also paint the fairing for UV protection but be sure to wait until it has
fully cured...about two weeks. Ask me how I know. The manufacturer recommends
epoxy or polyurethane paint. Something that has some flex to it after it drys
is a good idea to prevent cracking.
The only screws through the plastic canopy are in the frame sides. I used only
adhesive on the canopy bow..no screws. All you see is the jet black primer showing
through on the outside..Looks pretty cool!
My best advice is don't use too much adhesive at a time. You can always go back
and add more where you need it two hours or two weeks later.
After starting out with two tubes of the adhesive and doing the front, sides, and
roll bar I have a little less than 1/4 tube left. I think it might be barely
enough to do the rear window, but since it will be several weeks before I can
install the rear window I will probably order a third tube. Once opened I'm
not sure how much moisture and, therefore, setting will occur inside the tube.
The Sika 226 Cleaner is mainly isopropyl alcohol but, importantly, it also contains
a bonding agent for the primer. It's about $10.00 a pint. You wipe it on
the scuffed surface of the plexi and aluminum with a lint free cloth and let it
dry for 10 minutes before applying the Sika 209 Primer. The primer is about
$30.00 a pint.
Apply the black primer with a soft brush..flow out a thin even coat with no voids
particularly on the Plexiglas because places you miss will show through on
the other side. Let the primer dry for at least 20 minutes but no more than 2
hours before applying the adhesive. You can clean the Primer from brushes with
lacquer thinner.
The unset adhesive cleans up easily with paint thinner but nothing I have found
will remove the cured adhesive except sanding. This adhesive is really tough
stuff. It cures like very hard, tough rubber...you almost can't pull it apart
and the bond it makes to Plexiglas is incredible.
For more info go to www.sikaindustry.com Look up Marine Applications. You should find a material data sheet and an applications guide in that location.
Jim Ellis
finishing canopy RV-9A tip up
Message 8
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1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
--> RV-List message posted by:
Hello!
Does anybody have any tips concerning balancing of a lycoming engine or links
to comprehensive information on this subject?
While performing a corrosion test on my O-320 with assisstance from a couple of
friends(mechanics) a problem concerning balancing occured. The previous owner
have balanced the connecting rods. My friends think it looks as if they=B4ve
used a rough technique when taking off material from the rods. But they are not
sure if it is ok. The engine has run 850 hours trouble free hours since balancing.
When I=FFou read the Lycoming manual they do not recommend internal balancing,
but now that it is done:
- How critical is it?
- Principles for where and how much material can be taken off the rod?
- What techniques should be used?
Thanks in advance, hoping for some help as I fell pretty lost!!
Tobias Dagoo RV-4 SE-XIO Stockholm Sweden
Ps have some pics for anybody interested.
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by:
>
>Hello!
>Does anybody have any tips concerning balancing of a lycoming engine or links
to comprehensive information on this subject?
>
>While performing a corrosion test on my O-320 with assisstance from a couple of
friends(mechanics) a problem concerning balancing occured. The previous owner
have balanced the connecting rods. My friends think it looks as if they=B4ve
used a rough technique when taking off material from the rods.
>
Deep scratches are not good. Should be ground with a fine stone
> But they are not sure if it is ok.
>
see above
> The engine has run 850 hours trouble free hours since balancing. When I=FFou
read the Lycoming manual they do not recommend internal balancing, but now that
it is done:
>
>- How critical is it?
>
Depends on how you're going to abuse your engine.
>- Principles for where and how much material can be taken off the rod?
>
Usually the rod is ground in the 'fat' area.
>- What techniques should be used?
>
Not sure what you mean. The rods, pistons, pin and rings are assembled
and weighed. The goal is to have each set weigh close to the same.
second best is to have sets on each side weigh the same as the other
side. Some grinding of the rod is done to accomplish this. Usually the
rod/piston/pin/rings set is numbered so they go in that numbered cylinder.
>Thanks in advance, hoping for some help as I fell pretty lost!!
>
Your English is much better than my Swedish (I have none) but I'm not
sure what you mean by 'rough' above. The rods should be smooth and free
of scratches and dings. This is especially true of the 'neck' area.
Stress cracks will develop and the rod will fail. You need to polish
out the 'rough' areas, and weigh the assemblies on a very sensitive
scale .... best done by a shop that specializes in balancing engine parts.
Linn
>
>Tobias Dagoo RV-4 SE-XIO Stockholm Sweden
>
>Ps have some pics for anybody interested.
>
Well, you can email me direct with the pictures so I can understand better.
do not archive
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
There is a picture of a really nice looking plenum on the photoshare section
dated 7-24-04 posted by Doug Gray. The plane belongs to Brian Holman. I've
tried to send messages to Brian but his address continues to bounce back. If
Brian is on this list, please contact me directly if you would be so kind,
as I've a couple of questions I'd like to ask. I'm considering doing
something similar.
Marty In Brentwood TN
RV-6A Cowling stuff at last!
Do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Using Sikaflex for Canopy Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Jim,
Thanks for your note on this. I've got one quick question
related to these two comments:
>...
>My best advice is don't use too much adhesive at a time. You can
>always go back and add more where you need it two hours or two weeks later.
>
>... Let the primer dry for at least
>20 minutes but no more than 2 hours before applying the adhesive.
Isn't there a problem if you don't put the glue on
the primer within the two hours? Probably not a big
deal.
A friend of mine that built a glastar used a glue called silpruf,
which is designed to glue the windows in skyscrapers. He says
all the glastar people use this. One nice thing about it is
that it is not UV sensitive, so does not require the primer step.
Comes in "aluminium" color as well as black and white.
Best regards,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
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