Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:35 AM - Re: torque (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
2. 05:39 AM - elevator (David Figgins)
3. 06:09 AM - Re: Re: Using Sikaflex for Canopy Installation (Christopher Stone)
4. 06:19 AM - Re: elevator (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
5. 07:04 AM - Re: elevator (Trainnut01@aol.com)
6. 07:52 AM - titanium tie down bolts (Evan and Megan Johnson)
7. 07:57 AM - Re: QB fuselage and wing (Michael Schipper)
8. 08:12 AM - Re: torque (Bill Dube)
9. 08:15 AM - Re: elevator (Mike Robertson)
10. 08:20 AM - Re: elevator (Bill Dube)
11. 08:44 AM - Re: elevator (Jeff Dowling)
12. 09:39 AM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Brian Denk)
13. 09:43 AM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Charles Rowbotham)
14. 09:52 AM - pre-punch question (james frierson)
15. 10:10 AM - Re: pre-punch question (Jim Jewell)
16. 10:47 AM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Chris W)
17. 03:08 PM - Interesting paint scheme book (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
18. 04:38 PM - Re: pre-punch question (Charlie England)
19. 06:03 PM - RV-6 INSTRUMENT PANEL FOR SALE ON E-BAY (Bruno)
20. 07:28 PM - Re: elevator (plaurence@the-beach.net)
21. 08:34 PM - Two deals to look at (Amit Dagan)
22. 08:53 PM - Ellison TBI installation... (jacklockamy)
23. 09:06 PM - Control stick grips (D Paul Deits)
24. 10:48 PM - Re: Control stick grips (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Wheeler and Bill,
I think you are both right! Look at it this way: Say you are going to make
two 1/4 inch bolts. I know you don't want to make your own bolts, but this is
just to make a point. You take a couple of blank 1/4 inch unthreaded bolts
made of the same material with a hex head on them. (I don't know where you got
these!) You take a threading die and cut some 1/4-28 threads on one, and cut
some 1/4-20 threads on the other one. You will notice that you had to cut
away more of the material on the coarse threaded one. This weakened it, so it
is not capable of as much clamping force as the fine threaded bolt. Yes, it is
true that it would take more torque to get the same clamping force.
The reason the torque ratings are about the same for both bolts, is that the
coarse bolt would be overstressed if it were torqued enough to make the same
clamping force as the fine threaded bolt.
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
Shade tree mechanic for 48 years. Engineer for 30 years.
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since July '04)
In a message dated 11/20/04 2:44:15 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
> Subj: RV-List: torque
> Date: 11/20/04 2:44:15 AM US Eastern Standard Time
> From: wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us
> Reply-to: rv-list@matronics.com
> To: rv-list-digest@matronics.com, apos;owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com&
> apos;@matronics.com
> Sent from the Internet
>
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Bill, interesting that this is published so. I still don't agree though in
> spite of that.
>
> First the specs for the two always bear out my statement that coarse threads
> need more rotational torque to get equivalent clamping force.
>
> Second, a screw is an inclined plane wrapped around a rod. If one changes
> the threads per inch one is changing the ratio of the vector forces on the
> inclined plane by changing the length of the incline, where horizontal force
> is measured in rotational torque, and vertical force is measured as clamping
> force.
>
> If one inch of vertical distance has 28 threads wrapped around a 1/4" rod
> rather than 20 wraps then it will be a ratio of 1:1/4Pi x 28 vs 1:1/4Pi x
> 20.
>
> Not sure how this book arrived at this but one can easily test it. Take two
> equal bolts, one coarse and one fine and torque them on a stack of washers
> to various equal settings and measure the stretch. I may test this for fun
> and to set up a lab demo, but I can assure you that I have found fine
> threads much easier to twist off and fail the bolt, more than I care to
> admit.
>
> The reason the engine manufacturer uses coarse thread studs is the fine
> threads in aluminum are not physically strong enough at their bases. The
> advantage of studs is that since they are force fit they load the aluminum
> threads into compression, so for them to fail they need to be pulled hard
> enough to over come that compression and then overcome the shear strength of
> the thread.
>
> Hence the rule, never replace a stud with a bolt. They are also one of the
> more rare applications where studs of two thread sizes are commonly used.
> The coarse portion goes into the aluminum case and the fine goes into the
> steel nut.
>
> W
>
> Time: 03:07:30 PM PST US
> From: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Torque
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> At 11:56 AM 11/17/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>
> >The reason is with the exception of reciprocating engines most aircraft
> >fasteners are fine thread, most auto fasteners are coarse thread. Since the
>
> >torque values are much higher for NCT to get equal clamping force, one's
> arm
> >doesn't need to be that sensitive to get fairly close.
>
> It turns out that the pitch of the thread drops out of the
> equation. The clamping force is a function of the diameter, torque, and the
> surface friction. Surprisingly, the thread pitch is not a factor.
>
> T = K x Fi x d
>
> where T = torque, K ~ 0.20, Fi = clamping force, d = bolt diameter
>
> (Page #378, Mechanical Engineering Design, Shigley and Mitchell, 1983,
> McGraw Hill)
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
I am just finishing the left elevator and last night bent the tabs at the
cutout where the trim tab fits, the bend does not look very good as I could
not position the wood blocks properly due to the stiffeners, the net result
is the bend is not sharp an not quite at 90 degrees to the trailing edge.
Not sure what I can do apart from buying new skin and stiffeners and
starting over. I thought about cutting this area out and making an end cap
rib and riveting it in position.
Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it?
Strikes me this would have been easier to do first before the stiffeners
were installed and the sharp skin bend made but I was following the
directions.
Dave (irritated on last elevator waiting for wings)
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Using Sikaflex for Canopy Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Christopher Stone <rv8iator@earthlink.net>
Jim...
I have not been able to find a source for the Sikaflex 295. Nothing on their website
about dealers (that I could find). Where did you get yours?
A canopy in my future...
Chris Stone
RV-8
Newberg OR
-----Original Message-----
From: JEllis9847@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Using Sikaflex for Canopy Installation
--> RV-List message posted by: JEllis9847@aol.com
Hi Mickey,
Sorry for the confusion. If you want to apply additional adhesive to metal
or Plexiglas anytime after two hours you should reclean the previously primed
area with Sika 226 Cleaner and reprime with Sika 209 Primer. The primer is a
very thin polyurethane paint that dries very quickly.
I found that if you just want to build up additional adhesive on top of
existing adhesive you can scuff the old adhesive with Scotchbrite and clean with
isopropyl alcohol. Wait 10 minutes and apply the added adhesive. The resulting
joint between the old and new adhesive is undetectable.
The effects of UV need to be considered. Sika recommends blocking direct
sunlight on the adhesive with opaque band much like to see on car windshields
(for the same reason).
The Sikaflex 295UV is designed specifically to bond with plastic...plus is
has the advantage of being sandable and paintable. I not sure that Silpruf has
these properties but may work just as well.
Hope this helps clear up the confusion.
Jim Ellis
finishing canopy RV-9A tip up
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/23/04 7:40:17 AM Central Standard Time,
2004nospam@earthlink.net writes:
> Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it?
>>>
There's likely to be many more before it's all over! Might be a good idea to
move on and you could be inspired how to fix it later...
Then again, the rib thing might work too- got a foto? (you'll have to send
off-list or photoshare)
Mark Phillips -6A 125 hours
do not archive
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
I made an end rib for the elevator and two for the trim tab. Looks great,
but its not flying yet.
Carroll Jernigan
RV7A Installing the wings this weekend.
Message 6
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| Subject: | titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Anybody have a good source for titanium lifting eyes? I bought the cast steel eye
bolts from Vans for the tie downs, and while they are cheap, they are also
very heavy. I spent a little time on the internet looking for titanium replacments
and the only ones I have found have been super expensive. Any other nifty
solutions? Or are you guys all using the cast steel? Thanks....
Evan
www.evansaviationproducts.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: QB fuselage and wing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Michael Schipper <mike@learningplanet.com>
Hi Ken,
I am building a slow-build -9A, but I have completed to the point of a
QuickBuild kit, so I went out with my tape measure and came up with the
following numbers:
The fuselage is 174" long and 47" wide, without the engine mount or
empennage attached.
The wings are 134" long each, without the fiberglass tips installed,
and they are 8" thick at the spar, so count on at least 24" if you
stand them on end.
Hope this helps,
Mike Schipper
www.my9a.com
On Nov 22, 2004, at 10:58 PM, David Alderman wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Alderman" <kenalder@hotmail.com>
>
> I am a new sub and wannabe RV-9Aer. Trying to calculate avail space,
> i.e.,
> garage w/loft and small workshop, 12'x16' (plan to extend 4 or 5 ft).
> Will
> greatly appreciate stand-alone length of QB fuselage and length, width,
> thickness of stand-alone QB wing. Thanks. Ken Alderman in
> Simpsonville, SC.
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 07:33 AM 11/23/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>Wheeler and Bill,
>
>I think you are both right! Look at it this way: Say you are going to make
>two 1/4 inch bolts. I know you don't want to make your own bolts, but
>this is
>just to make a point. You take a couple of blank 1/4 inch unthreaded bolts
>made of the same material with a hex head on them. (I don't know where
>you got
>these!) You take a threading die and cut some 1/4-28 threads on one, and cut
>some 1/4-20 threads on the other one. You will notice that you had to cut
>away more of the material on the coarse threaded one. This weakened it,
>so it
>is not capable of as much clamping force as the fine threaded bolt. Yes,
>it is
>true that it would take more torque to get the same clamping force.
>
>The reason the torque ratings are about the same for both bolts, is that the
>coarse bolt would be overstressed if it were torqued enough to make the same
>clamping force as the fine threaded bolt.
While it is true that a fine thread bolt has a greater root
diameter (and thus a greater strength) it is not true that the clamping
force is greater for a given torque.
If you do the math for the relationship between the torque and the
clamping force, (and you include the friction between the nut and the
threads,) you will discover that the thread pitch drops out of the
equation. It turns out that the friction dominates. Modest changes in the
mechanical advantage caused by thread pitch are washed out by the thread
friction.
The clamping force directly increases the thread friction force.
This translates directly to the torque force.
You can prove this to yourself. Torque a bolt to the standard
setting. Next, carefully use the torque wrench to loosen the bolt. Measure
how much torque it takes to start to move the bolt backwards. It will take
very nearly the same torque to break it free as it did to tighten it. This
is because it is all about friction. The pitch, even reversed, doesn't make
a significant difference.
It is like pushing a major appliance up a mountain road (with no
wheels.) The weight of the appliance sets the friction force and thus
determines how hard you must push to make it move. Because the friction is
so high, there is not any noticeable difference in pushing effort between a
slight hill and a modestly steep hill. The slope matters ever so slightly
because the friction is so large.
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Dave,
You are not the first person that htis has happened to. some try to re-bend
the tabs. And there are several that have cut them off , made a small end
cap rib and riveted it in, myself included. I used the smal wedge shaped
particle board blocks that cam with the empenage kit as a form and hammered
out a new end rib after I tried to re-bend the tab and it didn't come out
the way I wanted. Once the new rib was made and riveted in it looked like
it belonged there.
Good luck, and wlecome to the first of many questions that will pop up along
the way.
Mike Robertson
>From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv7-list@matronics.com>, <rv-list@matronics.com>,
><vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RV-List: elevator
>Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 06:36:55 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
>I am just finishing the left elevator and last night bent the tabs at the
>cutout where the trim tab fits, the bend does not look very good as I could
>not position the wood blocks properly due to the stiffeners, the net result
>is the bend is not sharp an not quite at 90 degrees to the trailing edge.
>Not sure what I can do apart from buying new skin and stiffeners and
>starting over. I thought about cutting this area out and making an end cap
>rib and riveting it in position.
>Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it?
>Strikes me this would have been easier to do first before the stiffeners
>were installed and the sharp skin bend made but I was following the
>directions.
>
>Dave (irritated on last elevator waiting for wings)
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 06:36 AM 11/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
>I am just finishing the left elevator and last night bent the tabs at the
>cutout where the trim tab fits, the bend does not look very good as I could
>not position the wood blocks properly due to the stiffeners, the net result
>is the bend is not sharp an not quite at 90 degrees to the trailing edge.
>Not sure what I can do apart from buying new skin and stiffeners and
>starting over. I thought about cutting this area out and making an end cap
>rib and riveting it in position.
I made a block that clecoed to the rear spar. Seemed to make the
job go better. You can snip out the tabs and replace them with a rib that
you fashion yourself.
Also, when you make the trim tab itself, I found it MUCH easier to
bend the end over with a hand seamer BEFORE you bend the trailing edge and
put the skin in place.
>Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it?
I was not overjoyed with the appearance of mine, but it is
acceptable.
>Strikes me this would have been easier to do first before the stiffeners
>were installed and the sharp skin bend made but I was following the
>directions.
Probably would be.
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
There is a tip in the RV-ator covering this. If you review this thing
before you move to the next step you'll probably find a lot of good info.
Shemp
And now we can buy the new and improved version :)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Dube" <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Subject: Re: RV-List: elevator
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> At 06:36 AM 11/23/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>>
>>I am just finishing the left elevator and last night bent the tabs at the
>>cutout where the trim tab fits, the bend does not look very good as I
>>could
>>not position the wood blocks properly due to the stiffeners, the net
>>result
>>is the bend is not sharp an not quite at 90 degrees to the trailing edge.
>>Not sure what I can do apart from buying new skin and stiffeners and
>>starting over. I thought about cutting this area out and making an end cap
>>rib and riveting it in position.
>
> I made a block that clecoed to the rear spar. Seemed to make the
> job go better. You can snip out the tabs and replace them with a rib that
> you fashion yourself.
>
> Also, when you make the trim tab itself, I found it MUCH easier to
> bend the end over with a hand seamer BEFORE you bend the trailing edge and
> put the skin in place.
>
>>Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it?
>
> I was not overjoyed with the appearance of mine, but it is
> acceptable.
>
>>Strikes me this would have been easier to do first before the stiffeners
>>were installed and the sharp skin bend made but I was following the
>>directions.
>
> Probably would be.
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Anybody have a good source for titanium lifting eyes? I bought the cast
>steel eye bolts from Vans for the tie downs, and while they are cheap, they
>are also very heavy. I spent a little time on the internet looking for
>titanium replacments and the only ones I have found have been super
>expensive. Any other nifty solutions? Or are you guys all using the cast
>steel? Thanks....
>
>Evan
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
Cast steel. Install and fughedaboudit. Not worth the calories to save a
few ounces. Bought a set at LOE4 from a guy who chrome plated a bunch of
them. Cost $14/pair if I remember correctly. Look cool!
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 13
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| Subject: | titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Randy Simpson (Ti Tie downs) was working on them.
>From: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: titanium tie down bolts
>Date: Tue, 23 Nov 2004 08:01:20 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
><evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
>Anybody have a good source for titanium lifting eyes? I bought the cast
>steel eye bolts from Vans for the tie downs, and while they are cheap, they
>are also very heavy. I spent a little time on the internet looking for
>titanium replacments and the only ones I have found have been super
>expensive. Any other nifty solutions? Or are you guys all using the cast
>steel? Thanks....
>
>Evan
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | pre-punch question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
I am considering becoming a repeat offender having built a -6A pre
pre-punch. From searching the archives it is apparent that no jigs, other
than maybe the wings, are needed.The question I have is are the rivet hole
the right size or do you have to pre-assemble everything and run the correct
size drill thru them? It sure would be nice to be able to take the parts out
of the box, debur, dimple, prime and assemble with no pre-assembly. Ethier
way will be much better than the pre-historic nothing pre-punch days....
Scott Frierson
RV6A Flying
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: pre-punch question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Scott,
The pre-punched holes are undersize. Bummer EH! {[;-)!
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: pre-punch question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
>
> I am considering becoming a repeat offender having built a -6A pre
> pre-punch. From searching the archives it is apparent that no jigs, other
> than maybe the wings, are needed.The question I have is are the rivet hole
> the right size or do you have to pre-assemble everything and run the
> correct
> size drill thru them? It sure would be nice to be able to take the parts
> out
> of the box, debur, dimple, prime and assemble with no pre-assembly. Ethier
> way will be much better than the pre-historic nothing pre-punch days....
>
> Scott Frierson
> RV6A Flying
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
>Anybody have a good source for titanium lifting eyes? I bought the cast steel
eye bolts from Vans for the tie downs, and while they are cheap, they are also
very heavy. I spent a little time on the internet looking for titanium replacments
and the only ones I have found have been super expensive. Any other nifty
solutions? Or are you guys all using the cast steel? Thanks....
>
>
McMaster.com has them for about $36 each, the item number is 3103T31
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want & give the
gifts they want this holiday season
http://thewishzone.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Interesting paint scheme book |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Want some fun selecting a paint scheme for your RV?
Flying Colors is a really neat full color hard bound book of old military
paint schemes from the 1910s to the mid 1970s . There are over 1300
historic examples, many with multi view drawings and detail of interesting
nose art and insignias. Even if you don't copy one directly, its sure to
give you some great ideas. They are all for your perusal - except the Spad
chicken on page 16. That one's mine.
This book is now out of print except for the last 18 copies we just picked
up from the publisher. The price is $14.95 and I've got no idea why its so
cheap.
Check it out at this web address.
http://www.buildersbooks.com/flying_colors.htm
Thanks and happy Thanksgiving,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
800 780-4115
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: pre-punch question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
There was a virtual flame-fest here a while back about this issue. Let
me say 1st that Van's tech guys recommend drilling/reaming the holes
with a #40 bit before debur/dimple.
Now, here's an exercise for you that I don't believe anyone has
'published' yet. Find the approved range of hole diameters for a -3
rivet. Now go to your kit & measure the diameter of the pre-punched
holes (drill bits from a complete drill index can be used for this).
Next, drill a piece of scrap (without a backing, as would be the case
when drilling skins to ribs) with a #40 bit, debur with a standard 3
flute debur tool & dimple. Then take a prepunched scrap piece (the tail
stiffeners in the -7 will have some punched scrap), debur with a single
flute debur tool & dimple. Examine both with a magnifying glass & report
back with what you see.
Last, let me repeat that Van recommends match drilling with a #40 bit.
Charlie
Jim Jewell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>Scott,
>
>The pre-punched holes are undersize. Bummer EH! {[;-)!
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: pre-punch question
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
>>
>>I am considering becoming a repeat offender having built a -6A pre
>>pre-punch. From searching the archives it is apparent that no jigs, other
>>than maybe the wings, are needed.The question I have is are the rivet hole
>>the right size or do you have to pre-assemble everything and run the
>>correct
>>size drill thru them? It sure would be nice to be able to take the parts
>>out
>>of the box, debur, dimple, prime and assemble with no pre-assembly. Ethier
>>way will be much better than the pre-historic nothing pre-punch days....
>>
>>Scott Frierson
>>RV6A Flying
>>
Message 19
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| Subject: | RV-6 INSTRUMENT PANEL FOR SALE ON E-BAY |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bruno <rv4@videotron.ca>
Hello Listers
For anyone either building an RV-6 and or looking for a
full stack of avionics,there is one for sale on E-Bay
Go to : Item #
4505255412 <http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/s.gif>
Good Luck
Bruno
Do not archive
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
Dave,
I messed up the bend also.
I didn't like the looks of the one piece trim tab skin next to the two piece elevator
skin
with the AEX wedge traing edge.
I ordered .020 material with some AEX wedge and remade the trim tab utilizing the
original tab as a rivet template. Made ribs at rhe ends using the .020 material.
Now it looks the way I think Van should have designed to begin with.
Peter
On 23 Nov 2004 at 6:36, David Figgins wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins"
> <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
> I am just finishing the left elevator and last night bent the tabs at
> the cutout where the trim tab fits, the bend does not look very good
> as I could not position the wood blocks properly due to the
> stiffeners, the net result is the bend is not sharp an not quite at 90
> degrees to the trailing edge. Not sure what I can do apart from buying
> new skin and stiffeners and starting over. I thought about cutting
> this area out and making an end cap rib and riveting it in position.
> Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it? Strikes me this would
> have been easier to do first before the stiffeners were installed and
> the sharp skin bend made but I was following the directions.
>
> Dave (irritated on last elevator waiting for wings)
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> >
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Two deals to look at |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
1. The Telex Stratus 50-D is offered at $ 689.00 (free shipping). This is
BEFORE the $ 100 rebate offer through 12/31 from Telex. Details at
http://www.spinnerspilotshop.com/ then go to this week's special.
2. Only availbale from Sporty's, AvMap GeoPilot GPS has a large, color 5.6"
diagonal display in an ultra-sleek 6"x4"x1" design. check it out at
Sporty's.
This is similar to the AvMap EKP series, in a different package.
Price: $895.00 Good price for a large size color display.
Use your AOPA FBO rebate credit card and save $44.75 !!
Enjoy, have a good Thanksgiving, and may all your wishes come true.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Ellison TBI installation... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy@verizon.net>
Does anyone have any photos or instructions to assist me in installing an Ellison
EFS-4 TBI on an Lycoming 0-320?
Specifically, the orientation of how the TBI is mounted and how the control cables
(Throttle and Mixture) are run/connected.
Thanks in advance,
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
-7A FWF
Message 23
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| Subject: | Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps; autopilot,comm(maybe
two), etc.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 11/23/2004 9:07:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
pdeits@comcast.net writes:
What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
==================================
Just push to talk, trim and ... uh .. machine guns.
GV (RV-6A N1GV, Flying 725hrs)
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