Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:23 AM - Re: pre-punch question (matched holes) ()
2. 05:07 AM - Re: Control stick grips (Alex Peterson)
3. 05:15 AM - Re: Stick Grip Controls (Larry Simpson)
4. 05:17 AM - Re: Control stick grips (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
5. 05:46 AM - Re: Control stick grips (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
6. 05:47 AM - Control stick grips (Ken Brooks)
7. 05:58 AM - Re: torque (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
8. 05:59 AM - Phoenix RV 10 Builders? ()
9. 06:48 AM - Re: Control stick grips (Paul Besing)
10. 06:52 AM - Re: The Real Canopy Open In Flight Question (Finn Lassen)
11. 07:06 AM - Re: Control stick grips (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
12. 07:16 AM - Re: Control stick grips (Jeff Dowling)
13. 07:29 AM - Ol Blue (mark phipps)
14. 07:59 AM - Re: pre-punch question (matched holes) (Jim Oke)
15. 08:14 AM - Flying Colors now sold out (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
16. 08:20 AM - Wounded bird (MnwPeeps@aol.com)
17. 08:28 AM - Re: Control stick grips (Rob Prior)
18. 09:41 AM - Re: Control stick grips (Hull, Don)
19. 09:59 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] elevator (David Figgins)
20. 10:04 AM - Re: Control stick grips (Ben Cunningham)
21. 10:46 AM - Re: Control stick grips (Rob Prior)
22. 11:04 AM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (HCRV6@aol.com)
23. 11:45 AM - RVs in the Mojave/Lancaster,CA area (Thomas Wimmer)
24. 12:04 PM - Re: Control stick grips (linn walters)
25. 01:02 PM - RV 6/7/8 Towbar (James Ashford)
26. 01:24 PM - Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar (Kyle Boatright)
27. 01:31 PM - Re: RV-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 11/23/04, Tie-down fittings (PSPRV6A@aol.com)
28. 01:34 PM - Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar (Larry Bowen)
29. 01:45 PM - Re: RVs in the Mojave/Lancaster,CA area (Dan Checkoway)
30. 01:48 PM - Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar (Dan Checkoway)
31. 02:19 PM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Bill Dube)
32. 02:26 PM - Re: RVs in the Mojave/Lancaster,CA area (JOHN STARN)
33. 04:54 PM - Re: Control stick grips (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
34. 05:02 PM - Re: Control stick grips (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
35. 05:09 PM - Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar (richard dudley)
36. 05:29 PM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Chris W)
37. 06:04 PM - Re: Control stick grips (Evan and Megan Johnson)
38. 06:12 PM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
39. 06:16 PM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Don Diehl)
40. 07:19 PM - Control stick switches: your choice (Kosta Lewis)
41. 08:14 PM - Wheel Pants (Tailwheel) (Larry Bowen)
42. 08:26 PM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Richard E. Tasker)
43. 08:35 PM - Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar (Kosta Lewis)
44. 09:41 PM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Bob 1)
45. 10:56 PM - Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar (Jeff Point)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: pre-punch question (matched holes) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> I am considering becoming a repeat offender having built a -6A pre
> pre-punch. From searching the archives it is apparent that no jigs, other
> than maybe the wings, are needed.The question I have is are the rivet hole
> the right size or do you have to pre-assemble everything and run the
correct
> size drill thru them? It sure would be nice to be able to take the parts
out
> of the box, debur, dimple, prime and assemble with no pre-assembly. Ethier
> way will be much better than the pre-historic nothing pre-punch days....
>
I'm a repeat offender with a -6A flying; and, I helped Jim Render build his
QB-9A. Believe me, the newer kits are much better. My -7A is a delight to
work on, except for the tanks I'm building now. I still haven't learned how
to keep the sealer off of me and everything else I get around. :-)
The matched hole question continues to come up. Charlie England told you
about the flame fest that went on, a while back. I was one of the
participants in that when I challenged the reason for match drilling. The
other side of the argument was saying one had to match drill because the
holes in the punch process are pretty ugly and can crack later. Even though
they were correct about the ugliness of the holes, Van never mentions that
in the manual, that I could find. His reason for it is alignment. If
everything matches, it seemed logical that one could skip the match
drilling. With that said, let me suggest that you match drill the holes, as
instructed in the manual. Now that I've gotten well into my kit, there is
no way I could have done it without the matched drill process and feel good
about it. The holes don't line up perfectly, as one would think. The
holes are also undersized; so, dimpling without drilling would put extra
strain on those holes during the dimpling process. Yeah, it took me a lot
longer to do this than some of our faster builders; but, I still did it and
am glad I did. This is from a guy who might have taken that shortcut if he
could have felt good about it. Not so.
As for the drills test Charlie suggested, Pat Patterson and I did try
testing three sizes. I found that the #41 works best for me and was
suggested some time ago as a better one to use than a #40. Either works
well; but, I prefer the #41. Oh, yeah. I also deburred all holes before
dimpling. Then, I cleaned out the dimpled holes a little with a debur tool
before I set the rivets. That extra work should make my opponents in that
discussion really happy. :-)
As for jigs, you're going to read about those who built their kits with no
jigs. Fine. I'm not going to challenge those who have built without them
because they may have done just fine without them; but, I've found that jigs
are necessary for me. I was lucky to find a tail kit near completion and
bought it. It had a few things that I had to redo; but, it was pretty
straight. The elevators do have a tiny bit of twist that I don't like; but,
they'll be just fine, as is. The rudder was different. It had quite a bit.
Did the builder use a jig? I'd say not. I was fortunate enough to be able
to get the replacement rudder for free because the one I purchased didn't
have the larger rudder. I found that I had to build the rudder in a simple
jig to keep it from twisting. I also put the wings in a jig and found that
they don't stay straight with the punched holes, either. I had to twist
them back straight and match drilled with the structure held firmly in a
jig. I plan on using a simple jig, and the plump bobs method on the
ailerons and flaps, as well. The fuse may be a different matter; but, I'm
having my doubts, at the moment. We'll see. Let's just say I haven't
tossed out my old -6A fuselage jig, yet. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
RV-7A #70317 (Building wings, fuse to ship this month)
EAA Tech Counselor
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
>
> Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
> autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
PTT, elevator trim. You may have to decide between aileron trim and
autopilot disconnect and control wheel steering, if your a/p is so equipped,
depending on how many buttons your stick has.
Better to not put the flaps on the stick, though.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 554 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Stick Grip Controls |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Simpson" <simpsonl@tampabay.rr.com>
PTT (Comm), Pitch, Roll, Flaps, Ident, Landing, Strobes.
--> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <
<mailto:pdeits@comcast.net?subjectRe:%20Control%20stick%20grips&replyto200
411240505.iAO55q025671@matronics.com> pdeits@comcast.net>
What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
autopilot,comm(maybe
two), etc.
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I say to put the flaps on the stick. I like not having to take your hands off
of stick and throttle during pattern work. Just put that switch top right if
you are flying with your right hand on the stick (hardest to reach accidentally).
The newer Ray Allen g307 or whatever it's called with the coolie hat trim button
allows you to wire direct to the trim servos without having to mess with relays.
Further, the airshow flap positioning system (sold by van) allows you to move the
flaps with a simple button click without having to hold the buttom down the
whole time plus it moves the flaps up and down to pre-set 10, 20, and 40 degrees
without you having to guess where your flaps are at any given time doing it
manually and w/o a flap setting indicator.
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>
>
> > What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
> >
> > Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
> > autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
>
> PTT, elevator trim. You may have to decide between aileron trim and
> autopilot disconnect and control wheel steering, if your a/p is so equipped,
> depending on how many buttons your stick has.
>
> Better to not put the flaps on the stick, though.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 554 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
>
>
>
>
I say to put the flaps on the stick. I like not having to take your hands off of
stick and throttle during pattern work. Just put that switch top right if you
are flying with your right hand on the stick (hardest to reach accidentally).
The newer Ray Allen g307 or whatever it's called with the coolie hat trim button
allows you to wire direct to the trim servos without having to mess with relays.
Further, the airshow flap positioning system (sold by van) allows you to move the
flaps with a simple button click without having to hold the buttom down the
whole time plus it moves the flaps up and down to pre-set 10, 20, and 40 degrees
without you having to guess where your flaps are at any given time doing it
manually and w/o a flap setting indicator.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <ALEXPETERSON@EARTHLINK.NET>
What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
PTT, elevator trim. You may have to decide between aileron trim and
autopilot disconnect and control wheel steering, if your a/p is so equipped,
depending on how many buttons your stick has.
Better to not put the flaps on the stick, though.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 554 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
======================================
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Here is my drawing of my grip. Infinity.
I have flown this configuration.
http://www.mstewart.net/super8/panel/index_gif_13.gif
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: RE: RV-List: Control stick grips
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I say to put the flaps on the stick. I like not having to take your
hands off of stick and throttle during pattern work. Just put that
switch top right if you are flying with your right hand on the stick
(hardest to reach accidentally).
The newer Ray Allen g307 or whatever it's called with the coolie hat
trim button allows you to wire direct to the trim servos without having
to mess with relays.
Further, the airshow flap positioning system (sold by van) allows you to
move the flaps with a simple button click without having to hold the
buttom down the whole time plus it moves the flaps up and down to
pre-set 10, 20, and 40 degrees without you having to guess where your
flaps are at any given time doing it manually and w/o a flap setting
indicator.
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
>
>
> > What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
> >
> > Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
> > autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
>
> PTT, elevator trim. You may have to decide between aileron trim and
> autopilot disconnect and control wheel steering, if your a/p is so
equipped,
> depending on how many buttons your stick has.
>
> Better to not put the flaps on the stick, though.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 554 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
>
>
>
>
I say to put the flaps on the stick. I like not having to take your
hands off of stick and throttle during pattern work. Just put that
switch top right if you are flying with your right hand on the stick
(hardest to reach accidentally).
The newer Ray Allen g307 or whatever it's called with the coolie hat
trim button allows you to wire direct to the trim servos without having
to mess with relays.
Further, the airshow flap positioning system (sold by van) allows you to
move the flaps with a simple button click without having to hold the
buttom down the whole time plus it moves the flaps up and down to
pre-set 10, 20, and 40 degrees without you having to guess where your
flaps are at any given time doing it manually and w/o a flap setting
indicator.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<ALEXPETERSON@EARTHLINK.NET>
What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
PTT, elevator trim. You may have to decide between aileron trim and
autopilot disconnect and control wheel steering, if your a/p is so
equipped,
depending on how many buttons your stick has.
Better to not put the flaps on the stick, though.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 554 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
======================================
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net>
In a message dated 11/23/2004 9:07:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
<mailto:pdeits@comcast.net> pdeits@comcast.net writes:
"What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips?"
We all love to say "Here's what I have...", so here's what I have:
Infinity Stick Grips with
1. trigger finger PTT
2. coolie hat 4-way electric trim
3. left of trim coolie is mini-toggle for flaps (using Van's flap
positioning system). Momentary down for 10-20-40, momentary up
for full up
4. right of coolie is engine start button. After ground start, we have
panel toggle to disable "stick start button."
5. mid-grip on left is momentary autopilot disconnect button
6. bottom back side under pinkie finger is mini-toggle mounted side-
side for (push with pinkie) taxi light on, center is all off, (pull
with
pinkie) taxi and landing light on.
You just need to think through the possible functions and decide which you'd
most like to have. This is as individual as anything else associated with
the building process, but fun to ponder. As always, YMMV.
Ken Brooks
RV8QB N1903P - resvd
Fiberglassing Forever - Yuck!
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Bill,
Thanks for setting us straight. Most of the ME problems I worked said to
neglect friction! That would be like us EEs neglecting resistance! Well, at
least we learned something from you, and that is what this is all about.
Do not archive.
Thanks,
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
In a message dated 11/23/04 11:14:43 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
bdube@al.noaa.gov writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> At 07:33 AM 11/23/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
> >
> >Wheeler and Bill,
> >
> >I think you are both right! Look at it this way: Say you are going to
> make
> >two 1/4 inch bolts. I know you don't want to make your own bolts, but
> >this is
> >just to make a point. You take a couple of blank 1/4 inch unthreaded bolts
> >made of the same material with a hex head on them. (I don't know where
> >you got
> >these!) You take a threading die and cut some 1/4-28 threads on one, and
> cut
> >some 1/4-20 threads on the other one. You will notice that you had to cut
> >away more of the material on the coarse threaded one. This weakened it,
> >so it
> >is not capable of as much clamping force as the fine threaded bolt. Yes,
> >it is
> >true that it would take more torque to get the same clamping force.
> >
> >The reason the torque ratings are about the same for both bolts, is that
> the
> >coarse bolt would be overstressed if it were torqued enough to make the
> same
> >clamping force as the fine threaded bolt.
>
> While it is true that a fine thread bolt has a greater root
> diameter (and thus a greater strength) it is not true that the clamping
> force is greater for a given torque.
>
> If you do the math for the relationship between the torque and the
> clamping force, (and you include the friction between the nut and the
> threads,) you will discover that the thread pitch drops out of the
> equation. It turns out that the friction dominates. Modest changes in the
> mechanical advantage caused by thread pitch are washed out by the thread
> friction.
>
> The clamping force directly increases the thread friction force.
> This translates directly to the torque force.
>
> You can prove this to yourself. Torque a bolt to the standard
> setting. Next, carefully use the torque wrench to loosen the bolt. Measure
> how much torque it takes to start to move the bolt backwards. It will take
> very nearly the same torque to break it free as it did to tighten it. This
> is because it is all about friction. The pitch, even reversed, doesn't make
> a significant difference.
>
> It is like pushing a major appliance up a mountain road (with no
> wheels.) The weight of the appliance sets the friction force and thus
> determines how hard you must push to make it move. Because the friction is
> so high, there is not any noticeable difference in pushing effort between a
> slight hill and a modestly steep hill. The slope matters ever so slightly
> because the friction is so large.
>
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Phoenix RV 10 Builders? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <quinn.talley@cox.net>
Hi, I'm a novice RV builder working on the RV10 and looking for a Phoenix-area
RV10 builders group. Are there any RV10 builders or builders groups in Phoenix?
Would love to connect.
Quinn Talley
40295
Tail Cone
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Be careful putting flaps on the stick. I inadvertently hit the flaps while
looking at a flight guide at 190MPH!
Items I think shouldn't be on there:
-Engine start. You start it once per flight. It's not that hard to reach
up to the panel. Yeah, if you start a taildragger you need to hold the
stick back, but taildraggers have been started for 100 years without having
a starter on the stick.
-Ident-How often are you asked to ident? I'm a CFI in Phoenix, and I fly
everyday. I might get asked to ident 3-5 times a week.
-Landing light.
Items that should be on there:
PTT
Autopilot disconnect/engage
Electric trim (although I now prefer manual, but that's a different
discussion!)
I had all kinds of dreams of what should be on my Infinity stick grip. I
had flaps, trim and PTT. It was alot of wiring, and because of my
inadvertent flap operation at 190MPH, I wouldn't do that again. Another
thing to consider is inadvertently hitting the wrong switch when you are
unfamiliar. I would most definately, put a disconnect switch for the
passeger side to make the stick dormant when you don't have someone flying
from that side.
Also, the wiring becomes VERY complex when you start adding more features.
Especially when you have to include relays and such to run higher current
items.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Control stick grips
> --> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
>
> What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
>
> Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: The Real Canopy Open In Flight Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
No need to sacrifice the airplane, just the canopy, and maybe a passenger.
Make sure the pilot wears goggles!
Of course if the canopy hits and mangles the tail section the pilot had
better wear a chute too!
Finn
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>I've got an idea Sam. A while back Van retired one of the very early RV-6s they
had used as a demo ride for years. "Ol Blue" as she was affectionately called,
is still tucked away in his personal hangar. Maybe we could get him to sacrifice
her for a real world experiment on this canopy jettison thing!? You'd
have to find someone willing to put thier tush on the line to do the test (one
time only). Hmmm??? Naaaa..... too risky! Stilllllllll........ :-)
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
PLEASE GIVE ME SOME SUGGESTIONS ON STICK GRIPS...WEB SITES.
THANKS,
DOUG PRESTON
RV7A N196VA
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Uh oh, this one can snowball :)
There was a lengthy discussion concerning putting starter switches, flaps,
guns.... on the stick a while back.
Comes down to personal preference imho.
do not archive
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Control stick grips
> --> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
>
> What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
>
> Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
> autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=lao2eJB4iUP9tzjWR8SBOKgYrrqvA+pXjBAXiALEeSUTR8xTlpYYDdjvaMOt+gf4LohacSIx0pfjZiDTqcUUxOGVmPdhqnb6Ij8EFQBgWGvOsyDbhuuzi3miE/87r13DpryKSYFm6qadvQLRGovtxvZatYzK+x42IG6oAkR7gEU=
;
--> RV-List message posted by: mark phipps <skydive80020@yahoo.com>
Ol Blue is still flying daily for transition training with Mike Seager. She has
over 3600 hours, on her third engine and still feels and flys like a new airplane.
Mark Phipps, N242RP
Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen
No need to sacrifice the airplane, just the canopy, and maybe a passenger.
Make sure the pilot wears goggles!
Of course if the canopy hits and mangles the tail section the pilot had
better wear a chute too!
Finn
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>I've got an idea Sam. A while back Van retired one of the very early RV-6s they
had used as a demo ride for years. "Ol Blue" as she was affectionately called,
is still tucked away in his personal hangar. Maybe we could get him to sacrifice
her for a real world experiment on this canopy jettison thing!? You'd have
to find someone willing to put thier tush on the line to do the test (one time
only). Hmmm??? Naaaa..... too risky! Stilllllllll........ :-)
>
>
---------------------------------
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: pre-punch question (matched holes) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I recently purchased an RV-8 preview plans set (I'm think of becoming a
triple offender myself) and the manual now includes some advice from Vans on
hole preparation.
This wording is on page 5-4 of an RV-8 manual, page dated 31 Mar 04:
"Caution: Although the pre-punched parts are precision manufactured, resist
the temptation to simply dimple the parts without first match drilling.
Drilling removes the shear marks left by the punch process and guarantees
the hole spacing is perfect on your parts. Removing the shear marks is
important because if left alone, the skin can crack around the hole due to
the stretching caused by the dimple dies. this cracking may not appear for
several years after many hours of vibrations and flight cycles."
So the hole alignment and hole quality/stress relief arguments seem to have
it.
Jim Oke
Wpg., MB
RV-3, RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: <sears@searnet.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pre-punch question (matched holes)
> --> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
>> I am considering becoming a repeat offender having built a -6A pre
>> pre-punch. From searching the archives it is apparent that no jigs, other
>> than maybe the wings, are needed.The question I have is are the rivet
>> hole
>> the right size or do you have to pre-assemble everything and run the
> correct
>> size drill thru them? It sure would be nice to be able to take the parts
> out
>> of the box, debur, dimple, prime and assemble with no pre-assembly.
>> Ethier
>> way will be much better than the pre-historic nothing pre-punch days....
>>
>
> I'm a repeat offender with a -6A flying; and, I helped Jim Render build
> his
> QB-9A. Believe me, the newer kits are much better. My -7A is a delight
> to
> work on, except for the tanks I'm building now. I still haven't learned
> how
> to keep the sealer off of me and everything else I get around. :-)
>
> The matched hole question continues to come up. Charlie England told you
> about the flame fest that went on, a while back. I was one of the
> participants in that when I challenged the reason for match drilling. The
> other side of the argument was saying one had to match drill because the
> holes in the punch process are pretty ugly and can crack later. Even
> though
> they were correct about the ugliness of the holes, Van never mentions that
> in the manual, that I could find. His reason for it is alignment. If
> everything matches, it seemed logical that one could skip the match
> drilling. With that said, let me suggest that you match drill the holes,
> as
> instructed in the manual. Now that I've gotten well into my kit, there is
> no way I could have done it without the matched drill process and feel
> good
> about it. The holes don't line up perfectly, as one would think. The
> holes are also undersized; so, dimpling without drilling would put extra
> strain on those holes during the dimpling process. Yeah, it took me a lot
> longer to do this than some of our faster builders; but, I still did it
> and
> am glad I did. This is from a guy who might have taken that shortcut if
> he
> could have felt good about it. Not so.
>
> As for the drills test Charlie suggested, Pat Patterson and I did try
> testing three sizes. I found that the #41 works best for me and was
> suggested some time ago as a better one to use than a #40. Either works
> well; but, I prefer the #41. Oh, yeah. I also deburred all holes before
> dimpling. Then, I cleaned out the dimpled holes a little with a debur
> tool
> before I set the rivets. That extra work should make my opponents in that
> discussion really happy. :-)
>
> As for jigs, you're going to read about those who built their kits with no
> jigs. Fine. I'm not going to challenge those who have built without them
> because they may have done just fine without them; but, I've found that
> jigs
> are necessary for me. I was lucky to find a tail kit near completion and
> bought it. It had a few things that I had to redo; but, it was pretty
> straight. The elevators do have a tiny bit of twist that I don't like;
> but,
> they'll be just fine, as is. The rudder was different. It had quite a
> bit.
> Did the builder use a jig? I'd say not. I was fortunate enough to be
> able
> to get the replacement rudder for free because the one I purchased didn't
> have the larger rudder. I found that I had to build the rudder in a
> simple
> jig to keep it from twisting. I also put the wings in a jig and found
> that
> they don't stay straight with the punched holes, either. I had to twist
> them back straight and match drilled with the structure held firmly in a
> jig. I plan on using a simple jig, and the plump bobs method on the
> ailerons and flaps, as well. The fuse may be a different matter; but, I'm
> having my doubts, at the moment. We'll see. Let's just say I haven't
> tossed out my old -6A fuselage jig, yet. :-)
>
> Jim Sears in KY
> RV-6A N198JS (Scooter)
> RV-7A #70317 (Building wings, fuse to ship this month)
> EAA Tech Counselor
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flying Colors now sold out |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
Wednesday - 9:07 mountain time
The Flying Colors book is all sold out and out of print Thank you for
everyone who ordered. All shipments will go out today
Thanks,
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
do not archive
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: MnwPeeps@aol.com
Hello, all - I am in serious need of a builder/A&P-type who can work on my
6A. It's near Portsmouth, NH, and needs a new nose gear, new prop spinner,
either new or overhauled Sensenich, and possibly more. I could use some help
ASAP. Please reply to
mnwpeeps@aol.com Thanks - Don
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 5:47 24/11/2004 "Ken Brooks" <kenbrooks@charter.net> wrote:
> We all love to say "Here's what I have...", so here's what I have:
Good suggestion, Ken. Here's my configuration, with the caveat that it
hasn't been built/flown yet.
Throttle:
1. Thumb PTT.
2. Thumb operated flap switch.
Down (momentary) - Neutral - Up (locking)
3. Index Finger Engine Start (see Stick Grip #5).
(I may have index finger and thumb backwards, I'd have to look at my
throttle again... It's a surplus throttle from an F-100, -104, or -105,
depending on who you talk to).
Stick Grip:
1. Coolie hat 4-way trim.
2. Location TBD - Momentary button for COM frequency flip-flop.
3. Location TBD - Toggle switch for up-down COM tuning.
4. Location TBD - On-off pushbutton for smoke system (separate "arm smoke"
switch on dashboard).
5. Location TBD - Engine Start (see Throttle #3).
The two engine start switches will be in series, so each will act as an
interlock for the other. It's unlikely i'd hit both at the same time by
accident, and it lets me have both hands on the controls at startup.
The philosophy is that controlling the Amount of power is done with the
left hand, and controlling the Direction of that power is done with the
right hand. The stick grip points the nose, and "directs" where my comm
traffic will go. The throttle says how fast i'll get where my nose is
pointed, and whether or not my voice will get there too. 8-)
By this philosophy I should have the smoke system on the throttle too, but
I've only got two buttons and one switch on the throttle... So unless I get
motivated to design my own, i'll stick with this layout.
-Rob
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
PTT...and nothing else. It's the KISS principle.
Don
-----Original Message-----
From: D Paul Deits [mailto:pdeits@comcast.net]
Subject: RV-List: Control stick grips
--> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
<rv7-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | RE: [VAF Mailing List] elevator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
Thanks everyone for the input (nice to know I am not alone 8>) ) I have
decided to go the cap rib route for the elevator and the tab
Dave
_____
From: David Brand [mailto:dbrandx@yahoo.com]
Subject: Re: [VAF Mailing List] elevator
Dave,
I`ve always thought a separate little rib there, as you`ve mentioned,
is a good idea. I managed to finesse mine into a pretty fair rendition of
"per the plans", although for me the tricky part was trimming the bent
down flange so that the inner one didn`t bottom out on the skin surface.
It would be nice if Van provided a max dimension here. I don`t know, maybe
he does, now. Not when my plans were drawn in late `96. If you look at
enough RVs at the different fly-ins, you`ll eventually come across
examples of the rib method. I`ve seen a couple three over the years. In
fact, I think "Franklinstein" (the RV-8 prototype) is one example.
Dave
Brand 80254 N254LF
--- David Figgins
<dbfigginsweb@earthlink.net> wrote:
>
> I am just finishing the left elevator and last night bent the tabs at
> the
> cutout where the trim tab fits, the bend does not look very good as I
> could
> not position the wood blocks properly due to the stiffeners, the net
> result
> is the bend is not sharp an not quite at 90 degrees to the trailing
> edge.
> Not sure what I can do apart from buying new skin and stiffeners and
> starting over. I thought about cutting this area out and making an end
> cap
> rib and riveting it in position.
> Anyone else screwed this area up and fixed it?
> Strikes me this would have been easier to do first before the stiffeners
> were installed and the sharp skin bend made but I was following the
> directions.
>
> Dave (irritated on last elevator waiting for wings)
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
ADVERTISEMENT
<http://us.ard.yahoo.com/SIG=129aalkfn/M=298184.5639630.6699735.3001176/D=gr
oups/S=1705340085:HM/EXP=1101382898/A=2434970/R=0/SIG=11edksnhv/*http://www.
netflix.com/Default?mqso=60185402> click here
<http://us.adserver.yahoo.com/l?M=298184.5639630.6699735.3001176/D=groups/S:HM/A=2434970/rand=227950474>
_____
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
<mailto:vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com?subject=Unsubscribe>
<http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/> .
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ben Cunningham" <benandginny@insightbb.com>
Rob,
>... It's a surplus throttle from an F-100, -104, or -105,
> depending on who you talk to).<<
Where did you find your surplus throttle ? ? ?
Ben Cunningham
RV7 finish kit
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 10:03 24/11/2004 "Ben Cunningham" <benandginny@insightbb.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ben Cunningham" <benandginny@insightbb
> .com>
> > ... It's a surplus throttle from an F-100, -104, or -105,
> > depending on who you talk to).<<
>
> Where did you find your surplus throttle ? ? ?
Whoops, I forgot to include that tidbit, but I did intend to...
You really can find anything on eBay. In fact,
Item #: 4506720924 - F-100 Throttle Quadrant
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4506720924&category=26439&sspagename=WDVW>
Item #: 2286814010 - F-16 Throttle (this is pretty cool)
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=67587&item=2286814010&rd=1>
Item #: 2287678657 - Grumman A-6 Throttle Quadrant
<http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=14050&item=2287678657&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW>
I bought two of the F-100 style for about $100 total, as I recall (yes, the
other one is spoken for). They're used, but functional. Search for
"throttle quadrant", "F- Throttle", or even by specific model ("F-16
Throttle", for example). They all come up from time to time.
-Rob
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 11/23/04 7:52:59 AM Pacific Standard Time,
evmeg@snowcrest.net writes:
<< Anybody have a good source for titanium lifting eyes? I bought the cast
steel eye bolts from Vans for the tie downs, and while they are cheap, they are
also very heavy. >>
I'm with you Evan. I would pay a reasonable price for Titanium tie down
rings if some enterprising soul with the proper equipment would make some.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!!!
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RVs in the Mojave/Lancaster,CA area |
--> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Wimmer <thomas.wimmer@web.de>
Hello,
my name is Thomas, I'm from germany, interested in the RVs and am
currently staying in lancaster (studying in mojave).
Are any RVs out there which I can google at and perhaps get a ride in?
Never flown in an RV, but eager to.
I have been lurking quite some time in this list and keeping track of
some building processes (especially Dan C.'s website is really interesting).
So if anyone is interested in showing me their project, please contact me.
Thomas
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Hull, Don wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
>
>PTT...and nothing else. It's the KISS principle.
>Don
>
But I like the 'guns' suggestion!!!
Linn
do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: D Paul Deits [mailto:pdeits@comcast.net]
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Control stick grips
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
>
>What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
>
>Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
>autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
>
>
>advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
>
>
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: James Ashford <jashford@ashcreekwireless.com>
Listers,
Does anyone know of a source for tow-bars designed for an RV 7?
Jim Ashford
RV 7, N 713RV
90% done, 30 % to go
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
$100 says the answer is in the archives.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "James Ashford" <jashford@ashcreekwireless.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV 6/7/8 Towbar
> --> RV-List message posted by: James Ashford
> <jashford@ashcreekwireless.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> Does anyone know of a source for tow-bars designed for an RV 7?
>
> Jim Ashford
> RV 7, N 713RV
> 90% done, 30 % to go
>
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 24 Msgs - 11/23/04, Tie-down fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: PSPRV6A@aol.com
The tie-down fittings Van sells are NOT cast, they are forged steel. A
trifle of the weight can be eliminated by careful polishing. Their weight is
hardly worth worrying about. Put lightening holes in the baggage floor ribs
and you can save an ounce or two.
Paul & Eric
Petersen, RV6A 90% done
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I got one of these and am happy with it.
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#IDEA:%20Tailwheel%20dragger
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: James Ashford [mailto:jashford@ashcreekwireless.com]
> Sent: Wednesday, November 24, 2004 4:01 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV 6/7/8 Towbar
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: James Ashford
> --> <jashford@ashcreekwireless.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> Does anyone know of a source for tow-bars designed for an RV 7?
>
> Jim Ashford
> RV 7, N 713RV
> 90% done, 30 % to go
>
>
> =========
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RVs in the Mojave/Lancaster,CA area |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Thomas,
There's a handful of RVs based out there near Lancaster (including the
famous Paul "Rosie" Rosales), and tons more in the LA basin (Chino, Cable,
Whiteman, etc.). Depending on how long you'll be in town, you might
consider joining the SoCal-RVlist Yahoo group. Lots of active fliers &
builders. We should be able to get you the ride of a lifetime if you want
to come with us on a fly-out sometime.
Here's the link to the SoCal group:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCal-RVlist/
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Thomas Wimmer" <thomas.wimmer@web.de>
Subject: RV-List: RVs in the Mojave/Lancaster,CA area
> --> RV-List message posted by: Thomas Wimmer <thomas.wimmer@web.de>
>
> Hello,
>
> my name is Thomas, I'm from germany, interested in the RVs and am
> currently staying in lancaster (studying in mojave).
>
> Are any RVs out there which I can google at and perhaps get a ride in?
> Never flown in an RV, but eager to.
>
> I have been lurking quite some time in this list and keeping track of
> some building processes (especially Dan C.'s website is really
interesting).
>
> So if anyone is interested in showing me their project, please contact me.
>
>
> Thomas
>
>
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Does anyone know of a source for tow-bars designed for an RV 7?
This one cost about 30 cents, folds up real nice, weighs nothing, and you
can water ski behind your RV, too...
http://www.rvproject.com/20040804.html
;-)
DO NOT ARCHIVE
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
Why is everyone obsessed with titanium? What would be wrong with tie downs
made from 7075 Aluminum?
The mount in the wing is just 6061-T6 (~40ksi) The mild steel in the
recommended hardware store eye-bolt is likely to be 50 ksi. Typical 7075 is
going to have over 70 ksi yield strength and will weigh about half as much
as the steel part.
If you do the math, it would take nearly 8 tons to break a 7075 aluminum
hold down (with a 3/8" threaded shaft.). The rope will break first. Next,
the spar will buckle. Next, the four 10-32 bolts holding the mount in place
will shear.
If the ring is too thin, won't it cut through the rope?
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RVs in the Mojave/Lancaster,CA area |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
And just to the east (138 to the 18 east) there is APV, Apple Valley
Airport. We have two RV-4's, two -6A's, one -9 and of course one HRII all
flying and several RV's under construction at the airport/local garages.
KABONG
Do Not Archive
Subject: Re: RV-List: RVs in the Mojave/Lancaster,CA area
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Thomas,
>
> There's a handful of RVs based out there near Lancaster (including the
> famous Paul "Rosie" Rosales), and tons more in the LA basin (Chino, Cable,
> Whiteman, etc.). Depending on how long you'll be in town, you might
> consider joining the SoCal-RVlist Yahoo group. Lots of active fliers &
> builders. We should be able to get you the ride of a lifetime if you want
> to come with us on a fly-out sometime.
>
> Here's the link to the SoCal group:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/SoCal-RVlist/
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
>>
>> Hello,
>>
>> my name is Thomas, I'm from germany, interested in the RVs and am
>> currently staying in lancaster (studying in mojave).
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/24/2004 7:07:52 AM Central Standard Time,
alexpeterson@earthlink.net writes:
PTT, elevator trim.
>>>>>>>>
That's my vote, FWIW...
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark -6A & do not archive
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
http://www.chproducts.com/retail/aircraft.html
All ya needs t'know, IMHO...
Love mine, no connection other than satisfied customer- Kevin is an RV
builder and knows the routine- & FWIW: PTT & trim & NO FLAPS! 8-)
It's the old KISS thing, dontchaknow!
Mark do not archive
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar |
--> RV-List message posted by: richard dudley <rhdudley@att.net>
Jim,
I have been happy with a towbar for my -6A from Stan VanGrunvsen whose
email address is: stanvan@pacifier.com for $104.
RHDudley\
-6A at airport re-assembling
James Ashford wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: James Ashford <jashford@ashcreekwireless.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>Does anyone know of a source for tow-bars designed for an RV 7?
>
>Jim Ashford
>RV 7, N 713RV
>90% done, 30 % to go
>
>
>
>
Message 36
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Bill Dube wrote:
> Why is everyone obsessed with titanium?
>
Other than it just sounds cool, and is slightly lighter, you don't have
to worry about corrosion. Unlike steel and aluminum it takes some
seriously nasty chemicals to put a significant amount of corrosion on
titanium in anything less than several thousand years. Of course we
could use stainless steel which is still cheaper than Titanium in this
application, but it's not like $36 each is going to break the bank.
>What would be wrong with tie downs made from 7075 Aluminum?
>
>
Well I know where to get Steel, Stainless Steel, Titanium and even
Fiberglass Eyebolts but I have never seen Aluminum ones.
> The mount in the wing is just 6061-T6 (~40ksi) The mild steel in the
>recommended hardware store eye-bolt is likely to be 50 ksi. Typical 7075 is
>going to have over 70 ksi yield strength and will weigh about half as much
>as the steel part.
>
> If you do the math, it would take nearly 8 tons to break a 7075 aluminum
>hold down (with a 3/8" threaded shaft.). The rope will break first. Next,
>the spar will buckle. Next, the four 10-32 bolts holding the mount in place
>will shear.
>
>
I think you need to do that math again, or at least do different math.
The "Work Load Limit" on the 3/8" titanium eyebolt is 1,760 lbs.
Granted that "Work Load Limit" has a safety factor of at least 2 and
probably 4 but that is still a long way from 8 tons, titanium can be
over100 ksi yield depending on the alloy used. If a 3/8" eyebolt where
that much of over kill, I think Van would have called out a 1/4" eyebolt
instead.
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want & give the
gifts they want this holiday season
http://thewishzone.com
do not archive
Message 37
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Control stick grips |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
I dig the guns thing.....I was starting to look into putting a paint ball
gun on the underside of my wings so I could straffe the runway....but I was
advised that doing so would be a bit over the top and would probably result
in my arrest. The only thing I couldnt figure out is if a paint ball gun
would fire properly when I was doing a high speed pass.....:)
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Control stick grips
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Hull, Don wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Hull, Don" <Donald.C.Hull@nasa.gov>
> >
> >PTT...and nothing else. It's the KISS principle.
> >Don
> >
> But I like the 'guns' suggestion!!!
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: D Paul Deits [mailto:pdeits@comcast.net]
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Control stick grips
> >
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
> >
> >What controls do listers recommend on the stick grips.
> >
> >Plane is RV7A with electric ailerons, stabilizer, and flaps;
> >autopilot,comm(maybe two), etc.
> >
> >
> >advertising on the Matronics Forums.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 38
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 11/24/04 8:29:47 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net writes:
> > If you do the math, it would take nearly 8 tons to break a 7075
> aluminum
> >hold down (with a 3/8" threaded shaft.). The rope will break first. Next,
> >the spar will buckle. Next, the four 10-32 bolts holding the mount in place
>
> >will shear.
> >
I did the math and only got 3.87 tons.
Message 39
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Diehl <diehldon@comcast.net>
I went to a marine chandlery (that's a place what sells stuff for
boats) and bought a pair of really cool, super shiny, stainless eye
bolts.
Don Diehl
RV-4
Bremerton WA
Do not archive
On Nov 23, 2004, at 08:01, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> Anybody have a good source for titanium lifting eyes?.... Any other
> nifty solutions? Or are you guys all using the cast steel? Thanks....
>
Message 40
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Control stick switches: your choice |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Stick controls should be for functions you use a lot and need when your
hand is on the stick like radio frequencies, landing lights, etc. That
said, you don't really need anything on the stick as our airplanes are
not that complex, except PTT somewhere. It is just handier to have them
on the stick. This is also talked up some in the archives.
Mine (Infinity Grips, which I REALLY like, by the way; very comfortable
and functional without being in the way): left wing and right wing
landing lights: top switches; "china hat": channel selector and
flip-flop for the radio frequencies, left and right; up: ident; trigger:
50 caliber machineaaaaa I mean PTT. That's it. I have two switches that
are for various weapon systems for taking out cows, wayward trains,
enemy aircraft...... If I had four axis electric trim, that may be nice
to have on the stick. Mine is microtouch manual trim.
Starter? Yikes. On the stick? I have never HAD to have my hand on the
stick when starting in all these years/hours. I remember putting it
between my knees one time in Casper. I would NOT like to have a switch
to something like that where my hand was all the time in the area to
BUMP it, inactivate switch somewhere else or not. As has been said
before, having an inactivation switch on panel complicates the starting
wire circuit and introduces another switch in the system to fail. Then
there is the time you forget to inactivate the starter circuit and hit
the stick switch and grind your starter ring and starter gear to
oblivion. $$ouch$$$
Flaps: Naaa. My hands aren't THAT busy that I would need to keep them on
the stick while lowering the flaps. Again, having a means of deploying
full flaps at cruise speed, as has already been described, seems to
argue against flaps in the stick. But, then, I have manual flaps and it
has NEVER been an issue that I needed to have my hand on the throttle
when I was lowering/raising the flaps.
When I saw Infinity's display at OSH this year with the throttle
quadrant and all those switches, I thought what the hell would one do
with all THOSE switches. The stick alone provides 9 switches. Things can
get a little TOO complex. If this was the SpaceShip One, maybe I would
like all those little gizzies at my finger tips. Simplify.
BUT: the cool thing about making your own airplanes is you can put
anything you want on the stick and/or throttle. It isn't what I want on
mine; it's what do you want on yours? You should be getting a little dry
stick time sitting in your canoe (upright fuselage) "flying" your
airplane and figuring out where all the controls (heat, vent, carb heat,
etc) go so YOU will like the end results. If you want your Sidewinders
fired from the bottom blue switch, put them there. You are going to sit
in your airplane after it's done for a few decades and YOU should like
where everything is.
What would I change about my setup? Absolutely nothing. I had several
tens of hours in my canoe and with several hardboard mockups before I
"froze" the design. I love it.
IMHO, of course.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Do not archive; this is in there already
Message 41
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Wheel Pants (Tailwheel) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I've fit the wheel pants per the plans, with the plane in level attitude.
When I set the tail back down, I have what seems to be very little clearence
between the ground and the aft half of the fairing. The aft corner is only
1.6" above the ground, and there is maybe .75" clearance near the tire.
Will this survive a firm landing or an unkept grass strip? I guess raising
the fairing higher than the 1" above the top of the tire is the answer.
What have others done?
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8, 27.5 hrs
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 42
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
I am not sure what math you are using, but according to the formulas in
the machinists handbook, a 3/8" bolt with 18 TPI made of 7075 Al with
70ksi yield strength gives an ultimate yield of approximately 6000 lbs.
Normally parts like these are rated at 1/4 the ultimate yield which
means a rating of 1500 lbs - well under 8 tons.
All that said, titanium and the garden variety steel tiedown rings are
not much more than that, so an aluminum tiedown would work likely just
fine. In fact, I have toyed with the idea of fabricating streamlined
tie downs for my 9A so I don't have to remove them for that little extra
top speed :-) . Probably never do it, but if I ever have a few hours
with nothing to do...
Dick Tasker
Bill Dube wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> Why is everyone obsessed with titanium? What would be wrong with tie downs
>made from 7075 Aluminum?
>
> The mount in the wing is just 6061-T6 (~40ksi) The mild steel in the
>recommended hardware store eye-bolt is likely to be 50 ksi. Typical 7075 is
>going to have over 70 ksi yield strength and will weigh about half as much
>as the steel part.
>
> If you do the math, it would take nearly 8 tons to break a 7075 aluminum
>hold down (with a 3/8" threaded shaft.). The rope will break first. Next,
>the spar will buckle. Next, the four 10-32 bolts holding the mount in place
>will shear.
>
> If the ring is too thin, won't it cut through the rope?
>
>
Message 43
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
Look up Skyline Aviation at www.dragger.com makers of the Tail
Dragger-Dragger. I have used the one recommended for the RV series (low
profile) for years and couldn't do without it. Makes putting the RV in a
small space in the hangar a breeze.
Michael
Message 44
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net>
> > Why is everyone obsessed with titanium?
> >
> Other than it just sounds cool, and is slightly lighter, you don't have
> to worry about corrosion. Unlike steel and aluminum it takes some
> seriously nasty chemicals to put a significant amount of corrosion on
> titanium in anything less than several thousand years.
=======================================
Hmmmm.
If aluminum tie downs present a serious corrosion concern....
Whatz that say about an ALUMINUM aircraft ?????
Bob - 'thin skinned' aluminum RV-3 driver <g>
Do not archive
Message 45
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: RV 6/7/8 Towbar |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Delux Cessna towbar. Sam has a write-up on his website:
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/airport.html#towbar
I got mine from Wag-Aero, pretty much the same thing.
http://store.wagaero.com/*ws4d-db-query-Show.ws4d?*ws4d-db-query-Show***HEG-DE-082082083085089085-1377***-eProducts***-***shopping(directory)***.ws4d?shopping/results(S).html
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|