Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:50 AM - Re: Prop/Governor Adjustments (RV_8 Pilot)
2. 07:37 AM - Re: Capacitive sending unit (LarryRobertHelming)
3. 09:23 AM - Navaid autopilot servo S2 (mau11)
4. 10:16 AM - Re: Prop/Governor Adjustments (Randy Lervold)
5. 11:14 AM - Re: Prop/Governor Adjustments (Kevin Horton)
6. 11:16 AM - Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. (Brian Denk)
7. 01:18 PM - Re: Canopy is drilled (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
8. 01:50 PM - Altrak oscillations? (Ed Bundy)
9. 02:31 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (LARRY ADAMSON)
10. 02:59 PM - Guns (Wheeler North)
11. 03:04 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (Doug Rozendaal)
12. 03:07 PM - proof (Wheeler North)
13. 03:55 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (Doug Weiler)
14. 04:01 PM - Ummm,,, (Wheeler North)
15. 04:07 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (Larry Bowen)
16. 04:08 PM - Re: proof (Boss)
17. 04:37 PM - air/oil separator (Wheeler North)
18. 04:46 PM - Re: Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. (Scott VanArtsdalen)
19. 05:11 PM - Re: Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. (Scott VanArtsdalen)
20. 05:52 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (Jeff Dowling)
21. 05:58 PM - oil leak induction tube (Jeff Dowling)
22. 06:25 PM - Re: oil leak induction tube (Alex Peterson)
23. 06:27 PM - Re: proof (Jack Ford)
24. 08:01 PM - Slime Fighter (Scott VanArtsdalen)
25. 08:48 PM - Help with Tach (Emrath)
26. 09:04 PM - Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation (RV_8 Pilot)
27. 09:50 PM - Re: Help with Tach (Ed Holyoke)
28. 10:36 PM - Re: Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Prop/Governor Adjustments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Tony -
My new Hartzell came with decent instructions on setting the fine pitch stop
in the hub (no adjustment necessary with mine). Also, got some good
installation and adjustment instructions from my governor OEM (Woodward) by
fax - very quick and helpfull. Before adjusting the prop, make sure it's
not a governor setting issue. One idea comes to mind on checking this. Run
it up and set the rpm control in the "lowest" rpm position (farthest aft)
that gives max rpm. Be careful to not move it, shut down. Open the cowl
(if not already) and check to see if there's more travel left at the
governor. If so, you might need to adjust the prop fine pitch stop.
Is your engine and prop good for 2700 rpm? Probably so, but just be sure.
Mine had a set screw that stops the travel of the rpm control cable. Want
more - allow more cable travel. Less - turn the screw the other way.
Last - make sure you set the max rpm with the engine oil at normal op temp.
Mine won't come up to 2700 without being at 95- F or so. I think it's just
a matter of getting enough oil flow rate through the system when it's cold.
It's early, but that's what I recall from 4-5 yrs ago. Strongly recommend
getting specific instructions for your governor from it's respective OEM.
Anyone have better suggestions?
Bryan
>I would appreciate direction to instructions on adjusting the prop low
>pitch and governor? My new 62 hour lyc 0360, new hartzell c/s has never
>been adjusted and is only giving me a static rpm of 2500 (initial takeoff
>roll rpm). Shouldnt I be able to redline at 2700? Advice appreciated.
>
>tony marshall
>rv6
>polson, mt
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitive sending unit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Thanks for replies on this. Full is Full as far as the float sender is
concerned and that occurs at around 14-15 gallons. I think I will be
calibrating the ACS2002 tanks using only 16 gallons of fuel. Why put 5
extra gals of fuel in there if it is as full as the float can measure? I am
willing to take Van's and others' word that the tank has 21 gallon capacity
even if I did put in maybe a bit more or less proseal.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive sending unit
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
>
> Larry,
>
> Yes, that's correct, the float senders appear to max out at about 14
> gallons, probably a little more, but unless the calibration algorithm sees
a
> full 2-gallon increase it will not register the increment. Because of the
> dihedral and the sender being at the root end, the float hits the top way
> before the tank is full. I never bothered to talk to Rob about it because
> it seemed normal to me but I'll be interested to hear what he says about
it.
> With full tanks, the gauge registers 14+ until the level gets below 14. I
> guess the "+" means you are somewhere between 14 and 21 with no way to
> determine exactly where. The fuel remaining part of the ACS fuel computer
> is pretty accurate, though, so the gauge is just a backup for the fuel
flow
> counter. This assumes that you remember to reset the fuel computer after
a
> fillup. After a fillup, the computer fuel remaining indication is always
> within a gallon or less of the actual fuel remaining.
>
> Pat
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive sending unit
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
<lhelming@sigecom.net>
> >
> >
> > From: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive sending unit
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" <pat_hatch@msn.com>
> >>
> >> Bill,
> >>
> >>.............. I have the floats (senders) on the RV-7 calibrated by
> >> the ACS 2002 and the most fuel that ever shows is 14 gallons in a
> > 21-gallon
> >> tank. Obviously, the geometry of the tank will not allow calibration
> > above
> >> about 14 gallons with the float senders.
> >
> > (((((((( What does the ACS2002 acknowledge when you calibrate it
> > from 14 gallons to 16 gallons by adding two more gallons, and then 16 to
> > 18
> > and 18 to 20. Does it just keep saying 14 gallons? Something does not
> > sound right with this.
> >
> > I am sending copy to Rob Hickman at ACS and hope he responds to the
list.
> > Larry Helming)))))))))))))
> >
> >> Pat Hatch
> >> RV-4
> >> RV-6
> >> RV-7
> >> Vero Beach, FL
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Navaid autopilot servo S2 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "mau11" <mau11@free.fr>
Hi all,
I seach a seconhand Navaid servo S2 Crank or Capstan.
Thanks
--|--
--------(*)--------
Michel AUVRAY
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Prop/Governor Adjustments |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> I would appreciate direction to instructions on adjusting the prop low
pitch and governor? My new 62 hour lyc 0360, new hartzell c/s has never
been adjusted and is only giving me a static rpm of 2500 (initial takeoff
roll rpm). Shouldnt I be able to redline at 2700? Advice appreciated.
>
> tony marshall
Will it spin up to 2700 once up to cruise speed? If so, then it's not the
governor, it's the fine pitch stop on the hub that needs adjusting. If it
will only do 2500 in the air also then it's the governor that needs
adjusting. Most c/s props (probably all) have adjustments for both fine and
course stops. Your prop's documentation should say what the stops are set to
in degrees of pitch. Yes, you should be able to get 2700 as you go to full
power on your takeoff roll, that's kind of the point with a c/s prop.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Prop/Governor Adjustments |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
>> I would appreciate direction to instructions on adjusting the prop low
>pitch and governor? My new 62 hour lyc 0360, new hartzell c/s has never
>been adjusted and is only giving me a static rpm of 2500 (initial takeoff
>roll rpm). Shouldnt I be able to redline at 2700? Advice appreciated.
>>
>> tony marshall
>
>
>Will it spin up to 2700 once up to cruise speed? If so, then it's not the
>governor, it's the fine pitch stop on the hub that needs adjusting. If it
>will only do 2500 in the air also then it's the governor that needs
>adjusting. Most c/s props (probably all) have adjustments for both fine and
>course stops. Your prop's documentation should say what the stops are set to
>in degrees of pitch. Yes, you should be able to get 2700 as you go to full
>power on your takeoff roll, that's kind of the point with a c/s prop.
>
But, the prop's fine pitch stop shouldn't be set any finer than
necessary to get 2700 rpm during the take-off roll. If your engine
fails, the prop will go to the fine pitch stop (assuming you don't
have a counter-weighted prop). And the finer the fine pitch stop is
set, the more drag you'll have from the windmilling prop.
Ideally, you'd probably have the fine pitch stop set so you couldn't
quite get 2700 rpm on a static full power runup, but the rpm comes up
to 2700 early in the take-off roll.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 6
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| Subject: | Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Listers,
Just saw this on the web today. So much for the security of the Kryptonite,
round barrel type lock.
(BTW, this is for real. Tried it today on my laptop PC lock cable at work.)
http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy is drilled |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/27/2004 8:35:14 PM Central Standard Time,
JTAnon@aol.com writes:
Told all my friends and they basically said, "OK;.... glad to hear that;....
that's nice; .... and, what time do the Eagles play tomorrow."
Yeah, well when the Eagles are playing (whoop-de-doodoo!) two years from now,
you'll be up there playing with the REAL eagles- tell your friends they can
kiss yer tailfeathers! 8-)
do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | Altrak oscillations? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed one,
and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting".
I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than the
altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's
engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of seconds,
then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire
up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It also
never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on
it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in attitude
and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through the
seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small swells.
I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow, but
I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how to
fix it.
BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in addition to the
recommended "medium" setting, and all it did was lengthen the frequency and
slightly increase the amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high
setting will just speed it up.
Thanks,
Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
RV6A 600+ hours
---
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Altrak oscillations? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Ed Bundy
Subject: RV-List: Altrak oscillations?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed one,
and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting".
I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than the
altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's
engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of seconds,
then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire
up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It also
never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on
it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in attitude
and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through the
seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small swells.
I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow, but
I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how to
fix it.
BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in addition to the
recommended "medium" setting, and all it did was lengthen the frequency and
slightly increase the amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high
setting will just speed it up.
Thanks,
Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
RV6A 600+ hours
---
I've been flying with an Altrak for three weeks & approx. 4000 miles, but not my
plane. However, it's been very smooth flight &
no up/down oscillations. In fact, most of these flights included very little turbulence
& the Altrak was just as smooth as the calm air. I'm so impressed, that
I'm going to buy one.
Larry Adamson
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
If we could get those guys at Dynon to program in an inertial ball onto
their screen, then add an overlay see through video screen from an eye cam
in the vertical stab, then everytime one pulls the guns trigger the inertial
ball would flash red for dead guy in front...
The intertia ball would be really cool, even without the video overlay, are
any of the units doing this other than Chelton?
do not archive
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Altrak oscillations? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I have around 100 hours on my Alt Trak in my -4. If I have a pax in the
rear seat, (read Aft limit CG) the trim has to be exactly correct or it
hunts just a tiny bit. Exactly means just a tiny bit off neutral so there
is a tiny bit of pressure to take the "slack" out of the system. Most of
the slack is aerodynamic I suspect. When solo, it is absolutely rock solid
unless the trim is off. And when I am solo, the trim is not nearly as
critical as with an aft CG. I can't say enough good things about my Alt
Trak.
Call them, #1 you can talk to someone who knows what they are talking about,
and #2 I bet they can tell you in short order what your problem is.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Altrak oscillations?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ed Bundy
> To: Rv-List@Matronics.Com
> Subject: RV-List: Altrak oscillations?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
>
> I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed
one,
> and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting".
>
> I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than
the
> altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's
> engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of
seconds,
> then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire
> up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It
also
> never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on
> it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in
attitude
> and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through
the
> seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small
swells.
>
> I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow,
but
> I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how
to
> fix it.
>
> BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in addition to the
> recommended "medium" setting, and all it did was lengthen the frequency
and
> slightly increase the amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high
> setting will just speed it up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
> RV6A 600+ hours
> ---
>
>
> I've been flying with an Altrak for three weeks & approx. 4000 miles, but
not my plane. However, it's been very smooth flight &
> no up/down oscillations. In fact, most of these flights included very
little turbulence & the Altrak was just as smooth as the calm air. I'm so
impressed, that I'm going to buy one.
> Larry Adamson
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> Is there any concrete proof out there that having the wheel pants lower,
> covering more of the tire, actually provides a speed increase?
I never knew concrete needed to be proved???
do not archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Altrak oscillations? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dcw@nomadwi.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
>
> I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed
> one,
> and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting".
>
> I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than
> the
> altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's
> engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of
> seconds,
> then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire
> up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It
> also
> never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on
> it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in
> attitude
> and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through
> the
> seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small
> swells.
>
> I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow,
> but
> I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how
> to
> fix it.
I had a very similar occurrence on my Tru Trak (DigiFlight II) installed in
my RV-4. The Digiflight has a "half-step" setting for pitch. Using this
cured the problem. If the Altrak has a similar setting, try it and see what
happens.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, 160 hours
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
What a beautiful day. Big tall WPHAs (white puffy hazy areas) with lots of
holes, and green mountains, and the bluest sky ever.
Tracking a -4, watching wingtip vortices forming on the edge of a WPHA in a
slow rolling who cares which way is up, as the blue, gray, white, green all
go twirling by in successive flashes of light that engage and consume the
central essence within this pilot's soul.
We are so truely blessed, one wishes one could capture the spherical view,
the rushing sounds of buffeting winds and the throaty rythem of a happy
engine, the chill of the canopy back draft as the tail waggles its way
through one more slow barrel roll-loop up and over and around and through
another WPHA, the emotions flashing somewhere between the gyrating G-forces,
oxygen depletion, and the endorphine surges, all onto a data feed that one
could revisit again and again or share with the unwashed, ground bound
builder still waiting to become one with the sky Gods.
Keep driving them rivets girls and boys, there's a plate of cakes and
homemade jam a'waiting for you at Bob's Chow and Chili Hall up north, or, if
you prefer, chicken fried steak and eggs a little further, across the swamp
at Flo's.
In any case, some days are made for flying, and this was one of those days.
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Altrak oscillations? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
My Digiflight 200VS does that occasionally too. It seems to be less likely
if trimmed perfectly and the air is smooth. All of the config settings are
still set to the default. I spoke to TT tech support, and they offered to
update the gyros and software. I haven't taken the time to do it yet.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: LARRY ADAMSON [mailto:rvhi03@msn.com]
> Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2004 5:31 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Altrak oscillations?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ed Bundy
> To: Rv-List@Matronics.Com
> Subject: RV-List: Altrak oscillations?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
>
> I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just
> installed one, and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting".
>
> I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude
> tighter than the altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?)
> the entire time. After it's engaged it will immediately nose
> up a degree or two for a couple of seconds, then nose down a
> similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire
> up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER
> stops. It also never actually stays in a level attitude, it
> just passes through level on it's way up and down. It has
> enough movement to see the change in attitude and see/feel
> the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through
> the seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat
> over small swells.
>
> I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak
> tomorrow, but I just wanted to see if anyone else has
> experienced this and/or knows how to fix it.
>
> BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in
> addition to the recommended "medium" setting, and all it did
> was lengthen the frequency and slightly increase the
> amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high setting
> will just speed it up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
> RV6A 600+ hours
> ---
>
>
> I've been flying with an Altrak for three weeks & approx.
> 4000 miles, but not my plane. However, it's been very smooth
> flight & no up/down oscillations. In fact, most of these
> flights included very little turbulence & the Altrak was just
> as smooth as the calm air. I'm so impressed, that I'm going
> to buy one.
> Larry Adamson
>
>
> =========
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Boss" <bossone@cox.net>
Actually it does. Ask any runway engineer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: proof
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> > Is there any concrete proof out there that having the wheel pants lower,
> > covering more of the tire, actually provides a speed increase?
>
> I never knew concrete needed to be proved???
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | air/oil separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Well,
the ACS $38 air/oil separator I orignally installed never seemed to work
very well, so I bought another one and did the bilinski mod and so far have
had nary a drop out the breather, nor any anything on the belly.
Cut the old one open to check it out and found they had in fact welded the
inlet and outlet such that there was little to no interior tube projection.
I'm guessing the welder has no idea what a wing or an engine is?
But, for $38, plus a few square inches of SS screen and two SS scrubbers it
sure beats a $300 M-20 empty can.
Think ACS will take the old 800 hours, cut open one back, and give me 30 or
so free aircraft belly washes?
If you have one of these, on both units the inlet tube is 3" total length,
and the outlet is 3.5". They seem to be welded in any old way, but if you
were to measure it from the outside you could tell if there is any overlap
of the tubes internally, which is good.
The old one I have is has little projection inside, but the new one has the
tubes just overlapped, but in both cases the tubes are the same total length
listed above. Another way of saying this is on the old one from inlet end to
outlet end is nine inches, but the new one it is 7 inches yet all the
relative parts are the same. Plus its just an empty can so there isn't a lot
of surface area for the oil fog to condense on.
If I were to modify the bilinski mod, I would add two things. One an
interior stand pipe for the oil return with a bottom quick drain for
moisture condensation. And two, a 1/2 psi pressure relief valve in the event
the outlet gets plugged anywhere, anyhow.
W
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
URL got clipped. I think its supposed to be:
http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_
Brian Denk wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>Just saw this on the web today. So much for the security of the Kryptonite,
>round barrel type lock.
>
>(BTW, this is for real. Tried it today on my laptop PC lock cable at work.)
>
>http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_
>
>Brian Denk
>RV8 N94BD
>RV10 '51
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Nevermind. My email client is what's doing the URL clipping. Sorry for
the waste of email read time.
do not archive
Scott VanArtsdalen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
>URL got clipped. I think its supposed to be:
>http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_
>
>
>Brian Denk wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>>
>>Listers,
>>
>>Just saw this on the web today. So much for the security of the Kryptonite,
>>round barrel type lock.
>>
>>(BTW, this is for real. Tried it today on my laptop PC lock cable at work.)
>>
>>http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_
>>
>>Brian Denk
>>RV8 N94BD
>>RV10 '51
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Altrak oscillations? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
It may be how you have it plumbed to the static sys. I spoke to the folks
at Trutrak while I was installing mine and they said it would be fine to
install the static sensor behind the baggage door over the servo. It has
worked great. No complaints at all. They mentioned a problem similar to
yours if I hooked it into my static system. Talk to the guys tomorrow and
Im sure they'll get it to work for you.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
Subject: RV-List: Altrak oscillations?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
>
> I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed
> one,
> and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting".
>
> I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than
> the
> altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's
> engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of
> seconds,
> then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire
> up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It
> also
> never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on
> it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in
> attitude
> and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through
> the
> seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small
> swells.
>
> I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow,
> but
> I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how
> to
> fix it.
>
> BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in addition to the
> recommended "medium" setting, and all it did was lengthen the frequency
> and
> slightly increase the amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high
> setting will just speed it up.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
> RV6A 600+ hours
> ---
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | oil leak induction tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I found an oil leak on the sleeve that attaches my #2 induction tube to the sump.
The rubber sleeve is pretty saturated and dripping on my exhaust. Im also
getting a pool of blue-ish oil pooling on the top of the fab. Im guessing Im
getting oil in the induction tube from somewhere and it is running down and
out through the fuel injector servo and leaking through the sleeve. Any suggestions
on where this oil is coming from?? Its an IO-360 with a Bendix injector.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 22
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| Subject: | oil leak induction tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
> --> <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> I found an oil leak on the sleeve that attaches my #2
> induction tube to the sump. The rubber sleeve is pretty
> saturated and dripping on my exhaust. Im also getting a
> pool of blue-ish oil pooling on the top of the fab. Im
> guessing Im getting oil in the induction tube from somewhere
> and it is running down and out through the fuel injector
> servo and leaking through the sleeve. Any suggestions on
> where this oil is coming from?? Its an IO-360 with a Bendix
> injector.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 150 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
Was the engine pickled prior to running? Mine slobbered blue oil for a
couple hundred hours. I believe it was engine priming fuel running down the
inside of the intake system, washing out the preservative oil which was
fogged into the intake during shutdown. I believe it stopped somewhere
around a couple hundred hours. Just a possibility.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 558 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" <jackoford@theofficenet.com>
Does, we break a cylinder every time we make a pour.
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: proof
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> > Is there any concrete proof out there that having the wheel pants lower,
> > covering more of the tire, actually provides a speed increase?
>
> I never knew concrete needed to be proved???
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 24
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RV-4@yahoogroups.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
As far as air oil separators go how dows the Slime Fighter compare with
it's larger cousins? My RV-4 doesn't have all that much room on the
firewall and I'd like to install as small a separator as I can. Any
suggestions as to the best small form factor air oil separator?
Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
Listers, Is anyone using the EI tach with a Jeff Rose EIS and one mag? If
so, how did you set up the tach to read from both ignition systems on a mag
check? Is using the tach drive from Vans, part number IE Vtachgen12 the
solution?
Marty in Brentwood TN
Message 26
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| Subject: | Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation |
0.20 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I've got a 160-hp -320 on a -8 with about 680-smoh. Just put a new
Vetterman 2" dia exhaust on it and it now (seems) to go even better than it
did before - and it went like heck before! 3rd in class at Sun 100 - and I
didn't even really know where the turns were! :D
Problem is, it chronically leaks at the main shaft/crank lip seal. Have
changed it 3-4 times, with the same results - after 10-20 hrs, it begins and
continues to blow a mist of oil vapor throughout the engine compartment.
I know why and how this happens. It's related to my overhaul of the engine
and the surface prep of the area where the lip seal rides (satin finish from
bead blast cleaning). It's there and it's not going to be addressed until
the next major. I'll just keep adding oil and cleaning the belly, because
it runs really well - just a very annoying condition.
The point of this message is to get some feedback on an idea I have come up
with to reduce the leakage out the fwd lip seal. I'd like to pull a vacuum
on the crankcase. About 1-2 inches water column, or the amount that you
could get from an old style instrument venturi. Or, install a regular
vacuum pump (and maybe a regulator) on the engine to pull the vapor out of
the crankcase nd dump it overboard.
Some questions -
1. Anyone know if pulling a slight vacuum on the crankcase would hurt
anything?
2. Would a dry vacuum pump pull a stream of air and oil vapor?
3. What about a wet pump with no oil supply?
4. Anyone believe a vacuum pumps could ever fail closed (plugged off)?
5. Are there vacuum/pressure reliefs available for these low pressure
streams like this - don't want a failed vacuum pump allowing the crankcase
to overpressure.
Thanks in advance for any constructive advice and direct experience.
Bryan Jones
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Marty,
You probably could use the van's tach drive to keep the tach alive when
you kill the mag. That's probably what I'll do on my RV-6 project if the
ei tach can understand it's output. Let us know what you find out on
that one.
On our flying 6a with lightspeed ignition and mag, the ei tach reads off
the mag. We look for 100 rpm drop when you turn off the electronic. When
you turn off the mag, the tach zeros, but you hear very little in the
way of drop off. If the mag is seriously unhealthy, you'll see it lose
more than 100 rpm and it'll run rough when the electronic ignition is
turned off. I often do my runup with the mixture pretty lean which is a
pretty tough test of the ignition. When I do this, the rpm falls off
much more than 100 rpm when it's running on the mag only but still falls
off very little on the lightspeed. If the electronic ignition were
misfiring it would tend to be made worse and I think we'd hear and feel
it. The mag is pretty much along for the ride in flight. If I shut it
off in flight, you can't tell the difference except that the static in
the headset goes away. :-)
I'm going to put 2 lightspeeds on my 6 project because I don't want to
have my backup ignition be less reliable than the #1 and because both
sets of plugs will fire with a hotter and longer spark than a magneto
can manage and will fire simultaneously when advanced. You can use a
much wider gap on the plugs with electronic ignition also.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Emrath
Subject: RV-List: Help with Tach
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
Listers, Is anyone using the EI tach with a Jeff Rose EIS and one mag?
If
so, how did you set up the tach to read from both ignition systems on a
mag
check? Is using the tach drive from Vans, part number IE Vtachgen12 the
solution?
Marty in Brentwood TN
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Brian,
Before you get too far into the ideas that you have discussed so far here
are some more:
How is the crankcase ventilation tube on your engine delivering the fumes to
the environment.
First check to see that there is not some kind of blockage in the crankcase
breather tube. Collapsed inner liner, foreign material, or a crimped hose
might be found.
Pulling the hose at the engine fitting and blowing through it might give a
clue.
If a smaller diameter hose and tubing was installed try increasing the size
of them.
If at present the breather hose stops somewhere inside the cowl, onto one of
the exhaust pipes for instance. You could look at extending it so that the
air streaming over it would tend to create a slight negative pressure.
For this to work it might be necessary to devise a soft neoprene flap valve
to cover the whistle hole in the crank case breather tube. If you don't have
a whistle hole at present put one there now.
The flap would seal in the presence of a slight vacuum but still allow the
breather pipe to release any pressures in the event of blockage due to
freeze up etc. A triangle of suitable material wrapped around the tube with
one of it's points just covering the whistle hole might work.
This of course might mean some extra belly washing but it might keep the
engine compartment a bit cleaner.
After testing this, if a measure success is achieved you could drill a hole
into the nice new LV.exhaust pipe about 6 inches from the outlet end and
insert a stainless steel tube at an angle devise a clamp to hold it in place
an hook onto it with the breather tube. If this works the crankcase wastage
will tend to be burnt reducing the belly washing a bit. If it works too
well, adjusting the flap valve position over the whistle hole should work
There is a way that you might be able to polish the seal area of the prop
shaft without engine removal and tear down.
Practice this on a piece of pipe or shaft material. Soak in coal oil or
what have you and the wrap a sheet of wet and dry 600 grit around the shaft.
it should wrap and overlap around the shaft about twice, coil a long leather
boot lace about three times around the 600 grit and pull left and right as
if shining a shoe add lubricant from time to time. I think you will be
surprised at how well and fast this can work.
In the case of the Lycoming shaft in place, polishing this way might reach
in far enough to do the job for you.
Of course care and cleanliness when working in this area is vital.
I used this method to polish the axels that where a bit to large for the
bearings to fit.
Best of luck,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> I've got a 160-hp -320 on a -8 with about 680-smoh. Just put a new
> Vetterman 2" dia exhaust on it and it now (seems) to go even better than
> it
> did before - and it went like heck before! 3rd in class at Sun 100 - and
> I
> didn't even really know where the turns were! :D
>
> Problem is, it chronically leaks at the main shaft/crank lip seal. Have
> changed it 3-4 times, with the same results - after 10-20 hrs, it begins
> and
> continues to blow a mist of oil vapor throughout the engine compartment.
>
> I know why and how this happens. It's related to my overhaul of the
> engine
> and the surface prep of the area where the lip seal rides (satin finish
> from
> bead blast cleaning). It's there and it's not going to be addressed until
> the next major. I'll just keep adding oil and cleaning the belly, because
> it runs really well - just a very annoying condition.
>
> The point of this message is to get some feedback on an idea I have come
> up
> with to reduce the leakage out the fwd lip seal. I'd like to pull a
> vacuum
> on the crankcase. About 1-2 inches water column, or the amount that you
> could get from an old style instrument venturi. Or, install a regular
> vacuum pump (and maybe a regulator) on the engine to pull the vapor out of
> the crankcase nd dump it overboard.
>
> Some questions -
>
> 1. Anyone know if pulling a slight vacuum on the crankcase would hurt
> anything?
>
> 2. Would a dry vacuum pump pull a stream of air and oil vapor?
>
> 3. What about a wet pump with no oil supply?
>
> 4. Anyone believe a vacuum pumps could ever fail closed (plugged off)?
>
> 5. Are there vacuum/pressure reliefs available for these low pressure
> streams like this - don't want a failed vacuum pump allowing the crankcase
> to overpressure.
>
>
> Thanks in advance for any constructive advice and direct experience.
>
> Bryan Jones
>
>
>
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