---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 11/28/04: 28 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 06:50 AM - Re: Prop/Governor Adjustments (RV_8 Pilot) 2. 07:37 AM - Re: Capacitive sending unit (LarryRobertHelming) 3. 09:23 AM - Navaid autopilot servo S2 (mau11) 4. 10:16 AM - Re: Prop/Governor Adjustments (Randy Lervold) 5. 11:14 AM - Re: Prop/Governor Adjustments (Kevin Horton) 6. 11:16 AM - Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. (Brian Denk) 7. 01:18 PM - Re: Canopy is drilled (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 8. 01:50 PM - Altrak oscillations? (Ed Bundy) 9. 02:31 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (LARRY ADAMSON) 10. 02:59 PM - Guns (Wheeler North) 11. 03:04 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (Doug Rozendaal) 12. 03:07 PM - proof (Wheeler North) 13. 03:55 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (Doug Weiler) 14. 04:01 PM - Ummm,,, (Wheeler North) 15. 04:07 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (Larry Bowen) 16. 04:08 PM - Re: proof (Boss) 17. 04:37 PM - air/oil separator (Wheeler North) 18. 04:46 PM - Re: Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. (Scott VanArtsdalen) 19. 05:11 PM - Re: Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. (Scott VanArtsdalen) 20. 05:52 PM - Re: Altrak oscillations? (Jeff Dowling) 21. 05:58 PM - oil leak induction tube (Jeff Dowling) 22. 06:25 PM - Re: oil leak induction tube (Alex Peterson) 23. 06:27 PM - Re: proof (Jack Ford) 24. 08:01 PM - Slime Fighter (Scott VanArtsdalen) 25. 08:48 PM - Help with Tach (Emrath) 26. 09:04 PM - Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation (RV_8 Pilot) 27. 09:50 PM - Re: Help with Tach (Ed Holyoke) 28. 10:36 PM - Re: Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation (Jim Jewell) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:50:39 AM PST US From: "RV_8 Pilot" Subject: RE: RV-List: Prop/Governor Adjustments --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" Tony - My new Hartzell came with decent instructions on setting the fine pitch stop in the hub (no adjustment necessary with mine). Also, got some good installation and adjustment instructions from my governor OEM (Woodward) by fax - very quick and helpfull. Before adjusting the prop, make sure it's not a governor setting issue. One idea comes to mind on checking this. Run it up and set the rpm control in the "lowest" rpm position (farthest aft) that gives max rpm. Be careful to not move it, shut down. Open the cowl (if not already) and check to see if there's more travel left at the governor. If so, you might need to adjust the prop fine pitch stop. Is your engine and prop good for 2700 rpm? Probably so, but just be sure. Mine had a set screw that stops the travel of the rpm control cable. Want more - allow more cable travel. Less - turn the screw the other way. Last - make sure you set the max rpm with the engine oil at normal op temp. Mine won't come up to 2700 without being at 95- F or so. I think it's just a matter of getting enough oil flow rate through the system when it's cold. It's early, but that's what I recall from 4-5 yrs ago. Strongly recommend getting specific instructions for your governor from it's respective OEM. Anyone have better suggestions? Bryan >I would appreciate direction to instructions on adjusting the prop low >pitch and governor? My new 62 hour lyc 0360, new hartzell c/s has never >been adjusted and is only giving me a static rpm of 2500 (initial takeoff >roll rpm). Shouldnt I be able to redline at 2700? Advice appreciated. > >tony marshall >rv6 >polson, mt > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:37:42 AM PST US From: "LarryRobertHelming" Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive sending unit --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" Thanks for replies on this. Full is Full as far as the float sender is concerned and that occurs at around 14-15 gallons. I think I will be calibrating the ACS2002 tanks using only 16 gallons of fuel. Why put 5 extra gals of fuel in there if it is as full as the float can measure? I am willing to take Van's and others' word that the tank has 21 gallon capacity even if I did put in maybe a bit more or less proseal. Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pat Hatch" Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive sending unit > --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" > > Larry, > > Yes, that's correct, the float senders appear to max out at about 14 > gallons, probably a little more, but unless the calibration algorithm sees a > full 2-gallon increase it will not register the increment. Because of the > dihedral and the sender being at the root end, the float hits the top way > before the tank is full. I never bothered to talk to Rob about it because > it seemed normal to me but I'll be interested to hear what he says about it. > With full tanks, the gauge registers 14+ until the level gets below 14. I > guess the "+" means you are somewhere between 14 and 21 with no way to > determine exactly where. The fuel remaining part of the ACS fuel computer > is pretty accurate, though, so the gauge is just a backup for the fuel flow > counter. This assumes that you remember to reset the fuel computer after a > fillup. After a fillup, the computer fuel remaining indication is always > within a gallon or less of the actual fuel remaining. > > Pat > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "LarryRobertHelming" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive sending unit > > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" > > > > > > From: "Pat Hatch" > > To: > > Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive sending unit > > > > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Pat Hatch" > >> > >> Bill, > >> > >>.............. I have the floats (senders) on the RV-7 calibrated by > >> the ACS 2002 and the most fuel that ever shows is 14 gallons in a > > 21-gallon > >> tank. Obviously, the geometry of the tank will not allow calibration > > above > >> about 14 gallons with the float senders. > > > > (((((((( What does the ACS2002 acknowledge when you calibrate it > > from 14 gallons to 16 gallons by adding two more gallons, and then 16 to > > 18 > > and 18 to 20. Does it just keep saying 14 gallons? Something does not > > sound right with this. > > > > I am sending copy to Rob Hickman at ACS and hope he responds to the list. > > Larry Helming))))))))))))) > > > >> Pat Hatch > >> RV-4 > >> RV-6 > >> RV-7 > >> Vero Beach, FL > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:23:39 AM PST US From: "mau11" Subject: RV-List: Navaid autopilot servo S2 --> RV-List message posted by: "mau11" Hi all, I seach a seconhand Navaid servo S2 Crank or Capstan. Thanks --|-- --------(*)-------- Michel AUVRAY ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:16:27 AM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop/Governor Adjustments --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > I would appreciate direction to instructions on adjusting the prop low pitch and governor? My new 62 hour lyc 0360, new hartzell c/s has never been adjusted and is only giving me a static rpm of 2500 (initial takeoff roll rpm). Shouldnt I be able to redline at 2700? Advice appreciated. > > tony marshall Will it spin up to 2700 once up to cruise speed? If so, then it's not the governor, it's the fine pitch stop on the hub that needs adjusting. If it will only do 2500 in the air also then it's the governor that needs adjusting. Most c/s props (probably all) have adjustments for both fine and course stops. Your prop's documentation should say what the stops are set to in degrees of pitch. Yes, you should be able to get 2700 as you go to full power on your takeoff roll, that's kind of the point with a c/s prop. Randy Lervold www.rv-3.com www.rv-8.com ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 11:14:49 AM PST US From: Kevin Horton Subject: Re: RV-List: Prop/Governor Adjustments --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton >--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > >> I would appreciate direction to instructions on adjusting the prop low >pitch and governor? My new 62 hour lyc 0360, new hartzell c/s has never >been adjusted and is only giving me a static rpm of 2500 (initial takeoff >roll rpm). Shouldnt I be able to redline at 2700? Advice appreciated. >> >> tony marshall > > >Will it spin up to 2700 once up to cruise speed? If so, then it's not the >governor, it's the fine pitch stop on the hub that needs adjusting. If it >will only do 2500 in the air also then it's the governor that needs >adjusting. Most c/s props (probably all) have adjustments for both fine and >course stops. Your prop's documentation should say what the stops are set to >in degrees of pitch. Yes, you should be able to get 2700 as you go to full >power on your takeoff roll, that's kind of the point with a c/s prop. > But, the prop's fine pitch stop shouldn't be set any finer than necessary to get 2700 rpm during the take-off roll. If your engine fails, the prop will go to the fine pitch stop (assuming you don't have a counter-weighted prop). And the finer the fine pitch stop is set, the more drag you'll have from the windmilling prop. Ideally, you'd probably have the fine pitch stop set so you couldn't quite get 2700 rpm on a static full power runup, but the rpm comes up to 2700 early in the take-off roll. -- Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit) Ottawa, Canada http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/ ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:16:07 AM PST US From: "Brian Denk" Subject: RV-List: Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" Listers, Just saw this on the web today. So much for the security of the Kryptonite, round barrel type lock. (BTW, this is for real. Tried it today on my laptop PC lock cable at work.) http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_ Brian Denk RV8 N94BD RV10 '51 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 01:18:19 PM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy is drilled --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 11/27/2004 8:35:14 PM Central Standard Time, JTAnon@aol.com writes: Told all my friends and they basically said, "OK;.... glad to hear that;.... that's nice; .... and, what time do the Eagles play tomorrow." Yeah, well when the Eagles are playing (whoop-de-doodoo!) two years from now, you'll be up there playing with the REAL eagles- tell your friends they can kiss yer tailfeathers! 8-) do not archive ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 01:50:48 PM PST US From: "Ed Bundy" Subject: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed one, and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting". I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than the altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of seconds, then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It also never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in attitude and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through the seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small swells. I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow, but I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how to fix it. BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in addition to the recommended "medium" setting, and all it did was lengthen the frequency and slightly increase the amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high setting will just speed it up. Thanks, Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho RV6A 600+ hours --- ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:31:31 PM PST US From: "LARRY ADAMSON" Subject: Re: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? --> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" ----- Original Message ----- From: Ed Bundy Subject: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed one, and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting". I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than the altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of seconds, then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It also never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in attitude and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through the seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small swells. I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow, but I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how to fix it. BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in addition to the recommended "medium" setting, and all it did was lengthen the frequency and slightly increase the amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high setting will just speed it up. Thanks, Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho RV6A 600+ hours --- I've been flying with an Altrak for three weeks & approx. 4000 miles, but not my plane. However, it's been very smooth flight & no up/down oscillations. In fact, most of these flights included very little turbulence & the Altrak was just as smooth as the calm air. I'm so impressed, that I'm going to buy one. Larry Adamson ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 02:59:09 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: Guns --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North If we could get those guys at Dynon to program in an inertial ball onto their screen, then add an overlay see through video screen from an eye cam in the vertical stab, then everytime one pulls the guns trigger the inertial ball would flash red for dead guy in front... The intertia ball would be really cool, even without the video overlay, are any of the units doing this other than Chelton? do not archive ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 03:04:55 PM PST US From: "Doug Rozendaal" Subject: Re: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" I have around 100 hours on my Alt Trak in my -4. If I have a pax in the rear seat, (read Aft limit CG) the trim has to be exactly correct or it hunts just a tiny bit. Exactly means just a tiny bit off neutral so there is a tiny bit of pressure to take the "slack" out of the system. Most of the slack is aerodynamic I suspect. When solo, it is absolutely rock solid unless the trim is off. And when I am solo, the trim is not nearly as critical as with an aft CG. I can't say enough good things about my Alt Trak. Call them, #1 you can talk to someone who knows what they are talking about, and #2 I bet they can tell you in short order what your problem is. Tailwinds, Doug Rozendaal ----- Original Message ----- From: "LARRY ADAMSON" Subject: Re: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? > --> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Ed Bundy > To: Rv-List@Matronics.Com > Subject: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" > > I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed one, > and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting". > > I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than the > altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's > engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of seconds, > then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire > up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It also > never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on > it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in attitude > and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through the > seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small swells. > > I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow, but > I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how to > fix it. > > BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in addition to the > recommended "medium" setting, and all it did was lengthen the frequency and > slightly increase the amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high > setting will just speed it up. > > Thanks, > > Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho > RV6A 600+ hours > --- > > > I've been flying with an Altrak for three weeks & approx. 4000 miles, but not my plane. However, it's been very smooth flight & > no up/down oscillations. In fact, most of these flights included very little turbulence & the Altrak was just as smooth as the calm air. I'm so impressed, that I'm going to buy one. > Larry Adamson > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 03:07:37 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: proof --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > Is there any concrete proof out there that having the wheel pants lower, > covering more of the tire, actually provides a speed increase? I never knew concrete needed to be proved??? do not archive ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 03:55:42 PM PST US From: "Doug Weiler" Subject: Re: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" > > I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed > one, > and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting". > > I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than > the > altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's > engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of > seconds, > then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire > up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It > also > never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on > it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in > attitude > and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through > the > seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small > swells. > > I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow, > but > I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how > to > fix it. I had a very similar occurrence on my Tru Trak (DigiFlight II) installed in my RV-4. The Digiflight has a "half-step" setting for pitch. Using this cured the problem. If the Altrak has a similar setting, try it and see what happens. Doug Weiler RV-4, 160 hours ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 04:01:07 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: Ummm,,, --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North What a beautiful day. Big tall WPHAs (white puffy hazy areas) with lots of holes, and green mountains, and the bluest sky ever. Tracking a -4, watching wingtip vortices forming on the edge of a WPHA in a slow rolling who cares which way is up, as the blue, gray, white, green all go twirling by in successive flashes of light that engage and consume the central essence within this pilot's soul. We are so truely blessed, one wishes one could capture the spherical view, the rushing sounds of buffeting winds and the throaty rythem of a happy engine, the chill of the canopy back draft as the tail waggles its way through one more slow barrel roll-loop up and over and around and through another WPHA, the emotions flashing somewhere between the gyrating G-forces, oxygen depletion, and the endorphine surges, all onto a data feed that one could revisit again and again or share with the unwashed, ground bound builder still waiting to become one with the sky Gods. Keep driving them rivets girls and boys, there's a plate of cakes and homemade jam a'waiting for you at Bob's Chow and Chili Hall up north, or, if you prefer, chicken fried steak and eggs a little further, across the swamp at Flo's. In any case, some days are made for flying, and this was one of those days. do not archive ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 04:07:10 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" My Digiflight 200VS does that occasionally too. It seems to be less likely if trimmed perfectly and the air is smooth. All of the config settings are still set to the default. I spoke to TT tech support, and they offered to update the gyros and software. I haven't taken the time to do it yet. - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: LARRY ADAMSON [mailto:rvhi03@msn.com] > Sent: Sunday, November 28, 2004 5:31 PM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? > > --> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Ed Bundy > To: Rv-List@Matronics.Com > Subject: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" > > I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just > installed one, and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting". > > I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude > tighter than the altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) > the entire time. After it's engaged it will immediately nose > up a degree or two for a couple of seconds, then nose down a > similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire > up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER > stops. It also never actually stays in a level attitude, it > just passes through level on it's way up and down. It has > enough movement to see the change in attitude and see/feel > the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through > the seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat > over small swells. > > I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak > tomorrow, but I just wanted to see if anyone else has > experienced this and/or knows how to fix it. > > BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in > addition to the recommended "medium" setting, and all it did > was lengthen the frequency and slightly increase the > amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high setting > will just speed it up. > > Thanks, > > Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho > RV6A 600+ hours > --- > > > I've been flying with an Altrak for three weeks & approx. > 4000 miles, but not my plane. However, it's been very smooth > flight & no up/down oscillations. In fact, most of these > flights included very little turbulence & the Altrak was just > as smooth as the calm air. I'm so impressed, that I'm going > to buy one. > Larry Adamson > > > ========= > ========= > Matronics Forums. > ========= > ========= > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:08:30 PM PST US From: "Boss" Subject: Re: RV-List: proof --> RV-List message posted by: "Boss" Actually it does. Ask any runway engineer. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" Subject: RV-List: proof > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > > > Is there any concrete proof out there that having the wheel pants lower, > > covering more of the tire, actually provides a speed increase? > > I never knew concrete needed to be proved??? > > do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:37:27 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: air/oil separator --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Well, the ACS $38 air/oil separator I orignally installed never seemed to work very well, so I bought another one and did the bilinski mod and so far have had nary a drop out the breather, nor any anything on the belly. Cut the old one open to check it out and found they had in fact welded the inlet and outlet such that there was little to no interior tube projection. I'm guessing the welder has no idea what a wing or an engine is? But, for $38, plus a few square inches of SS screen and two SS scrubbers it sure beats a $300 M-20 empty can. Think ACS will take the old 800 hours, cut open one back, and give me 30 or so free aircraft belly washes? If you have one of these, on both units the inlet tube is 3" total length, and the outlet is 3.5". They seem to be welded in any old way, but if you were to measure it from the outside you could tell if there is any overlap of the tubes internally, which is good. The old one I have is has little projection inside, but the new one has the tubes just overlapped, but in both cases the tubes are the same total length listed above. Another way of saying this is on the old one from inlet end to outlet end is nine inches, but the new one it is 7 inches yet all the relative parts are the same. Plus its just an empty can so there isn't a lot of surface area for the oil fog to condense on. If I were to modify the bilinski mod, I would add two things. One an interior stand pipe for the oil return with a bottom quick drain for moisture condensation. And two, a 1/2 psi pressure relief valve in the event the outlet gets plugged anywhere, anyhow. W ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:46:50 PM PST US From: Scott VanArtsdalen Subject: Re: RV-List: Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. --> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen URL got clipped. I think its supposed to be: http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_ Brian Denk wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" > >Listers, > >Just saw this on the web today. So much for the security of the Kryptonite, >round barrel type lock. > >(BTW, this is for real. Tried it today on my laptop PC lock cable at work.) > >http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_ > >Brian Denk >RV8 N94BD >RV10 '51 > > > > -- Scott VanArtsdalen Van Arts Consulting Services 3848 McHenry Ave Suite #155-184 Modesto, CA 95356 209-986-4647 Ps 34:4,6 ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 05:11:56 PM PST US From: Scott VanArtsdalen Subject: Re: RV-List: Kryptonite prop locks secure? I think not. --> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen Nevermind. My email client is what's doing the URL clipping. Sorry for the waste of email read time. do not archive Scott VanArtsdalen wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen > >URL got clipped. I think its supposed to be: >http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_ > > >Brian Denk wrote: > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" >> >>Listers, >> >>Just saw this on the web today. So much for the security of the Kryptonite, >>round barrel type lock. >> >>(BTW, this is for real. Tried it today on my laptop PC lock cable at work.) >> >>http://www.businessblogconsulting.com/2004/09/engadget_a_ >> >>Brian Denk >>RV8 N94BD >>RV10 '51 >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > -- Scott VanArtsdalen Van Arts Consulting Services 3848 McHenry Ave Suite #155-184 Modesto, CA 95356 209-986-4647 Ps 34:4,6 ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 05:52:13 PM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: Re: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" It may be how you have it plumbed to the static sys. I spoke to the folks at Trutrak while I was installing mine and they said it would be fine to install the static sensor behind the baggage door over the servo. It has worked great. No complaints at all. They mentioned a problem similar to yours if I hooked it into my static system. Talk to the guys tomorrow and Im sure they'll get it to work for you. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 150 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Bundy" Subject: RV-List: Altrak oscillations? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" > > I have a question for those of you with an Altrak. I've just installed > one, > and it seems to be doing a lot of "hunting". > > I've only tested it in smooth air, and it holds an altitude tighter than > the > altimeter can display, but it phugoids (sp?) the entire time. After it's > engaged it will immediately nose up a degree or two for a couple of > seconds, > then nose down a similar amount for a few seconds and repeat. The entire > up/down oscillation cycle takes about 8 seconds and it NEVER stops. It > also > never actually stays in a level attitude, it just passes through level on > it's way up and down. It has enough movement to see the change in > attitude > and see/feel the stick move, and you can feel the g-load/unload through > the > seat of your pants. It feels similar to riding in a boat over small > swells. > > I can't believe this is normal, and I plan on calling Trutrak tomorrow, > but > I just wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this and/or knows how > to > fix it. > > BTW, I've also tried the "low" sensitivity setting in addition to the > recommended "medium" setting, and all it did was lengthen the frequency > and > slightly increase the amplitude of the oscillation. I imagine the high > setting will just speed it up. > > Thanks, > > Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho > RV6A 600+ hours > --- > > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 05:58:27 PM PST US From: "Jeff Dowling" Subject: RV-List: oil leak induction tube --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" I found an oil leak on the sleeve that attaches my #2 induction tube to the sump. The rubber sleeve is pretty saturated and dripping on my exhaust. Im also getting a pool of blue-ish oil pooling on the top of the fab. Im guessing Im getting oil in the induction tube from somewhere and it is running down and out through the fuel injector servo and leaking through the sleeve. Any suggestions on where this oil is coming from?? Its an IO-360 with a Bendix injector. Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 150 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 06:25:06 PM PST US From: "Alex Peterson" Subject: RE: RV-List: oil leak induction tube --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" > --> > > I found an oil leak on the sleeve that attaches my #2 > induction tube to the sump. The rubber sleeve is pretty > saturated and dripping on my exhaust. Im also getting a > pool of blue-ish oil pooling on the top of the fab. Im > guessing Im getting oil in the induction tube from somewhere > and it is running down and out through the fuel injector > servo and leaking through the sleeve. Any suggestions on > where this oil is coming from?? Its an IO-360 with a Bendix > injector. > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > RV-6A, N915JD > 150 hours > Chicago/Louisville Was the engine pickled prior to running? Mine slobbered blue oil for a couple hundred hours. I believe it was engine priming fuel running down the inside of the intake system, washing out the preservative oil which was fogged into the intake during shutdown. I believe it stopped somewhere around a couple hundred hours. Just a possibility. Alex Peterson RV6-A 558 hours Maple Grove, MN http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/ ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 06:27:06 PM PST US From: "Jack Ford" Subject: Re: RV-List: proof --> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Ford" Does, we break a cylinder every time we make a pour. do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wheeler North" Subject: RV-List: proof > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > > > Is there any concrete proof out there that having the wheel pants lower, > > covering more of the tire, actually provides a speed increase? > > I never knew concrete needed to be proved??? > > do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 08:01:35 PM PST US From: Scott VanArtsdalen RV-4@yahoogroups.com Subject: RV-List: Slime Fighter --> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen As far as air oil separators go how dows the Slime Fighter compare with it's larger cousins? My RV-4 doesn't have all that much room on the firewall and I'd like to install as small a separator as I can. Any suggestions as to the best small form factor air oil separator? Thanks! -- Scott VanArtsdalen Van Arts Consulting Services 3848 McHenry Ave Suite #155-184 Modesto, CA 95356 209-986-4647 Ps 34:4,6 ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 08:48:37 PM PST US From: "Emrath" Subject: RV-List: Help with Tach --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" Listers, Is anyone using the EI tach with a Jeff Rose EIS and one mag? If so, how did you set up the tach to read from both ignition systems on a mag check? Is using the tach drive from Vans, part number IE Vtachgen12 the solution? Marty in Brentwood TN ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 09:04:54 PM PST US From: "RV_8 Pilot" Subject: RV-List: Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation 0.20 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" I've got a 160-hp -320 on a -8 with about 680-smoh. Just put a new Vetterman 2" dia exhaust on it and it now (seems) to go even better than it did before - and it went like heck before! 3rd in class at Sun 100 - and I didn't even really know where the turns were! :D Problem is, it chronically leaks at the main shaft/crank lip seal. Have changed it 3-4 times, with the same results - after 10-20 hrs, it begins and continues to blow a mist of oil vapor throughout the engine compartment. I know why and how this happens. It's related to my overhaul of the engine and the surface prep of the area where the lip seal rides (satin finish from bead blast cleaning). It's there and it's not going to be addressed until the next major. I'll just keep adding oil and cleaning the belly, because it runs really well - just a very annoying condition. The point of this message is to get some feedback on an idea I have come up with to reduce the leakage out the fwd lip seal. I'd like to pull a vacuum on the crankcase. About 1-2 inches water column, or the amount that you could get from an old style instrument venturi. Or, install a regular vacuum pump (and maybe a regulator) on the engine to pull the vapor out of the crankcase nd dump it overboard. Some questions - 1. Anyone know if pulling a slight vacuum on the crankcase would hurt anything? 2. Would a dry vacuum pump pull a stream of air and oil vapor? 3. What about a wet pump with no oil supply? 4. Anyone believe a vacuum pumps could ever fail closed (plugged off)? 5. Are there vacuum/pressure reliefs available for these low pressure streams like this - don't want a failed vacuum pump allowing the crankcase to overpressure. Thanks in advance for any constructive advice and direct experience. Bryan Jones ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 09:50:57 PM PST US From: "Ed Holyoke" Subject: RE: RV-List: Help with Tach --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" Marty, You probably could use the van's tach drive to keep the tach alive when you kill the mag. That's probably what I'll do on my RV-6 project if the ei tach can understand it's output. Let us know what you find out on that one. On our flying 6a with lightspeed ignition and mag, the ei tach reads off the mag. We look for 100 rpm drop when you turn off the electronic. When you turn off the mag, the tach zeros, but you hear very little in the way of drop off. If the mag is seriously unhealthy, you'll see it lose more than 100 rpm and it'll run rough when the electronic ignition is turned off. I often do my runup with the mixture pretty lean which is a pretty tough test of the ignition. When I do this, the rpm falls off much more than 100 rpm when it's running on the mag only but still falls off very little on the lightspeed. If the electronic ignition were misfiring it would tend to be made worse and I think we'd hear and feel it. The mag is pretty much along for the ride in flight. If I shut it off in flight, you can't tell the difference except that the static in the headset goes away. :-) I'm going to put 2 lightspeeds on my 6 project because I don't want to have my backup ignition be less reliable than the #1 and because both sets of plugs will fire with a hotter and longer spark than a magneto can manage and will fire simultaneously when advanced. You can use a much wider gap on the plugs with electronic ignition also. Ed Holyoke -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Emrath Subject: RV-List: Help with Tach --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" Listers, Is anyone using the EI tach with a Jeff Rose EIS and one mag? If so, how did you set up the tach to read from both ignition systems on a mag check? Is using the tach drive from Vans, part number IE Vtachgen12 the solution? Marty in Brentwood TN ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 10:36:03 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hi Brian, Before you get too far into the ideas that you have discussed so far here are some more: How is the crankcase ventilation tube on your engine delivering the fumes to the environment. First check to see that there is not some kind of blockage in the crankcase breather tube. Collapsed inner liner, foreign material, or a crimped hose might be found. Pulling the hose at the engine fitting and blowing through it might give a clue. If a smaller diameter hose and tubing was installed try increasing the size of them. If at present the breather hose stops somewhere inside the cowl, onto one of the exhaust pipes for instance. You could look at extending it so that the air streaming over it would tend to create a slight negative pressure. For this to work it might be necessary to devise a soft neoprene flap valve to cover the whistle hole in the crank case breather tube. If you don't have a whistle hole at present put one there now. The flap would seal in the presence of a slight vacuum but still allow the breather pipe to release any pressures in the event of blockage due to freeze up etc. A triangle of suitable material wrapped around the tube with one of it's points just covering the whistle hole might work. This of course might mean some extra belly washing but it might keep the engine compartment a bit cleaner. After testing this, if a measure success is achieved you could drill a hole into the nice new LV.exhaust pipe about 6 inches from the outlet end and insert a stainless steel tube at an angle devise a clamp to hold it in place an hook onto it with the breather tube. If this works the crankcase wastage will tend to be burnt reducing the belly washing a bit. If it works too well, adjusting the flap valve position over the whistle hole should work There is a way that you might be able to polish the seal area of the prop shaft without engine removal and tear down. Practice this on a piece of pipe or shaft material. Soak in coal oil or what have you and the wrap a sheet of wet and dry 600 grit around the shaft. it should wrap and overlap around the shaft about twice, coil a long leather boot lace about three times around the 600 grit and pull left and right as if shining a shoe add lubricant from time to time. I think you will be surprised at how well and fast this can work. In the case of the Lycoming shaft in place, polishing this way might reach in far enough to do the job for you. Of course care and cleanliness when working in this area is vital. I used this method to polish the axels that where a bit to large for the bearings to fit. Best of luck, Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "RV_8 Pilot" Subject: RV-List: Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation > --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" > > I've got a 160-hp -320 on a -8 with about 680-smoh. Just put a new > Vetterman 2" dia exhaust on it and it now (seems) to go even better than > it > did before - and it went like heck before! 3rd in class at Sun 100 - and > I > didn't even really know where the turns were! :D > > Problem is, it chronically leaks at the main shaft/crank lip seal. Have > changed it 3-4 times, with the same results - after 10-20 hrs, it begins > and > continues to blow a mist of oil vapor throughout the engine compartment. > > I know why and how this happens. It's related to my overhaul of the > engine > and the surface prep of the area where the lip seal rides (satin finish > from > bead blast cleaning). It's there and it's not going to be addressed until > the next major. I'll just keep adding oil and cleaning the belly, because > it runs really well - just a very annoying condition. > > The point of this message is to get some feedback on an idea I have come > up > with to reduce the leakage out the fwd lip seal. I'd like to pull a > vacuum > on the crankcase. About 1-2 inches water column, or the amount that you > could get from an old style instrument venturi. Or, install a regular > vacuum pump (and maybe a regulator) on the engine to pull the vapor out of > the crankcase nd dump it overboard. > > Some questions - > > 1. Anyone know if pulling a slight vacuum on the crankcase would hurt > anything? > > 2. Would a dry vacuum pump pull a stream of air and oil vapor? > > 3. What about a wet pump with no oil supply? > > 4. Anyone believe a vacuum pumps could ever fail closed (plugged off)? > > 5. Are there vacuum/pressure reliefs available for these low pressure > streams like this - don't want a failed vacuum pump allowing the crankcase > to overpressure. > > > Thanks in advance for any constructive advice and direct experience. > > Bryan Jones > > >