Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:23 AM - List of Contributors Coming Soon! (Matt Dralle)
2. 04:55 AM - Re: Help with Tach (Larry Bowen)
3. 05:13 AM - Re: oil leak induction tube (Jeff Dowling)
4. 05:18 AM - Re: Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation (Brian Denk)
5. 05:25 AM - Whistle hole (Jeff Dowling)
6. 06:53 AM - EZ-pilot (Jason Sneed)
7. 07:19 AM - Re: Canopy is drilled (Darwin Barrie)
8. 07:21 AM - Re: EZ-pilot (Sam Buchanan)
9. 07:43 AM - Re: EZ-pilot (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
10. 09:17 AM - more FGN questions (D. Wayne Stiles)
11. 09:57 AM - Re: more FGN questions (Scott VanArtsdalen)
12. 10:06 AM - Re: more FGN questions (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
13. 10:09 AM - Re: more FGN questions (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
14. 10:18 AM - Re: more FGN questions (Peter Laurence)
15. 10:51 AM - Re: more FGN questions (Jim Jewell)
16. 11:03 AM - Re: more FGN questions (Bobby Hester)
17. 11:37 AM - Re: more FGN questions (coolmate_04@cashette.com)
18. 12:02 PM - Comm Antenna (sjhdcl@kingston.net)
19. 12:32 PM - Re: more FGN questions (JOHN STARN)
20. 12:50 PM - [PLEASE READ] Lists Pummelled by Cashette.com Debacle... (Matt Dralle)
21. 01:19 PM - Re: Comm Antenna (Stein Bruch)
22. 03:04 PM - The Skinny on LOE (Glenn Brasch)
23. 03:21 PM - ACS2002 Fuel Floats (RobHickman@aol.com)
24. 03:32 PM - Re: Capacitive sending unit (Chenoweth)
25. 04:04 PM - torque wrench ()
26. 04:49 PM - Re: ACS2002 Fuel Floats (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
27. 04:53 PM - Whirl Wind reply. (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
28. 05:08 PM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Bill Dube)
29. 05:15 PM - Re: ACS2002 Fuel Floats (Dan Checkoway)
30. 06:06 PM - Re: more FGN questions (Jerry Springer)
31. 06:16 PM - Re: titanium tie down bolts (Greg Young)
32. 06:34 PM - Re: Lycoming (O-320) Crankcase Ventilation (Martin Hone)
33. 07:25 PM - Re: Re: Lycoming (O-320) Crankcase Ventilation (Kyle Boatright)
34. 07:57 PM - Re: Whirl Wind reply. (Maureen & Bob Christensen)
35. 08:43 PM - Re: Re: Lycoming (O-320) Crankcase Ventilation (RV_8 Pilot)
Message 1
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| Subject: | List of Contributors Coming Soon! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Listers,
There are only a couple more days left until the official end of this
year's Matronics List Fund Raiser. At the end of the month I compile and
post a list of all the members that made a Contribution to support the
Lists. Won't you take a moment and make sure your name is on that
list? Its your support that keeps these Lists up and running 24x7x365.
The List Contribution Site is easy and fast and most importantly
secure. You can make your donation with a credit card, PayPal, or by
sending in a personal check. For complete information, please see the URL
below:
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!!
Matt Dralle
Email List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Help with Tach |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Yes, I have the same set-up with the EIS engine monitor. My tach is
driven from the Rose EI. When the EI is switched off during the mag
check, the tach goes to 0. When switched back on, the EIS display shows
the lowered tach number before the engine can rev back up to the initial
RPM. For example 1800-0-1750-1800. A little kludgy, but it works.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
http://dictionary.reference.com/search?&q=kludgy
Emrath said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
>
> Listers, Is anyone using the EI tach with a Jeff Rose EIS and one mag? If
> so, how did you set up the tach to read from both ignition systems on a
> mag
> check? Is using the tach drive from Vans, part number IE Vtachgen12 the
> solution?
>
> Marty in Brentwood TN
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: oil leak induction tube |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Yep, it was pickled for almost 6 years. Ive got about 150 hours on it now.
Im wondering if I should just wait until the next oil change and check it
again.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: oil leak induction tube
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling"
>> --> <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>>
>> I found an oil leak on the sleeve that attaches my #2
>> induction tube to the sump. The rubber sleeve is pretty
>> saturated and dripping on my exhaust. Im also getting a
>> pool of blue-ish oil pooling on the top of the fab. Im
>> guessing Im getting oil in the induction tube from somewhere
>> and it is running down and out through the fuel injector
>> servo and leaking through the sleeve. Any suggestions on
>> where this oil is coming from?? Its an IO-360 with a Bendix
>> injector.
>>
>> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>> RV-6A, N915JD
>> 150 hours
>> Chicago/Louisville
>
> Was the engine pickled prior to running? Mine slobbered blue oil for a
> couple hundred hours. I believe it was engine priming fuel running down
> the
> inside of the intake system, washing out the preservative oil which was
> fogged into the intake during shutdown. I believe it stopped somewhere
> around a couple hundred hours. Just a possibility.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 558 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Lycoming (320) Crankcase Ventillation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>I've got a 160-hp -320 on a -8 with about 680-smoh. Just put a new
>Vetterman 2" dia exhaust on it and it now (seems) to go even better than it
>did before - and it went like heck before! 3rd in class at Sun 100 - and I
>didn't even really know where the turns were! :D
>
>Problem is, it chronically leaks at the main shaft/crank lip seal. Have
>changed it 3-4 times, with the same results - after 10-20 hrs, it begins
>and
>continues to blow a mist of oil vapor throughout the engine compartment.
>
>I know why and how this happens. It's related to my overhaul of the engine
>and the surface prep of the area where the lip seal rides (satin finish
>from
>bead blast cleaning). It's there and it's not going to be addressed until
>the next major. I'll just keep adding oil and cleaning the belly, because
>it runs really well - just a very annoying condition.
>
>The point of this message is to get some feedback on an idea I have come up
>with to reduce the leakage out the fwd lip seal. I'd like to pull a vacuum
>on the crankcase. About 1-2 inches water column, or the amount that you
>could get from an old style instrument venturi. Or, install a regular
>vacuum pump (and maybe a regulator) on the engine to pull the vapor out of
>the crankcase nd dump it overboard.
>
>Some questions -
>
>1. Anyone know if pulling a slight vacuum on the crankcase would hurt
>anything?
>
>2. Would a dry vacuum pump pull a stream of air and oil vapor?
>
>3. What about a wet pump with no oil supply?
>
>4. Anyone believe a vacuum pumps could ever fail closed (plugged off)?
>
>5. Are there vacuum/pressure reliefs available for these low pressure
>streams like this - don't want a failed vacuum pump allowing the crankcase
>to overpressure.
>
>
>Thanks in advance for any constructive advice and direct experience.
>
>Bryan Jones
Hiya Bri...uh, BRYan.
I've also replaced the crankshaft nose seal, but only once. Still seeps
oil, but not as much as it did before. I think this is a notoriously weak
area in the Lyco crankcase area. I would avoid any shenanigans involving
the crank case vent, as anything that could possibly fail shut would lead to
seal failure and a bad day.
What I did was to fabricate a circular cover plate that covers the seal
around it's circumference. It's a simple, two-piece affair, kinda like a
toilet flange repair kit at home depot! Sorry for the reference, but it's
the best I can come up with. There are tapped holes in the crank case that
almost seem like they were put there for this reason. I think they are
1/4-20. I used stainless allen head bolts, drilled and safety wired in
place. Used some black permatex gasket maker on the back of the plates and
bolted them on. Pretty much took care of the problem. Still get some
seepage further back along the case split on the bottom that will likely
never stop until major overhaul. No thanks. I can live with some oil
drips.
As a Pitt's driver friend of mine once said, "the only dry Lycoming is one
that never runs".
This has proven very true in my case. (pun intended)
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Speaking of whistle hole's; I drilled a couple of small holes in my vent hose
about 6 inches from the crankcase discharge. I then wrapped the hose with electrical
tape to keep it from leaking. Im wondering if the amount of pressure
that would build up if the hose were to seal would be enough to blow out the
tape covering the holes. Im also noticing a lot of oil spots on the hose all
the way to the separator??? Its like its seeping through the hose?? Its a
fuel line hose from good ole NAPA.
tia
Shemp
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I installed an EZ pilot II (trio) in my RV-6 and it works well usually
keeping within .03 of cross track. While the autopilot is engaged it is
not very smooth. It feels like if you slapped the stick with your hand
(lightly) to make heading corrections. It is not that bad, but I was
wondering if this is normal? I was hoping there would not be that much
"feel" difference between hand flying and the autopilot flying but it
feels very different and I would not want to fly long distances with
the AP engaged, just because the bump is annoying, it makes smooth air
hand flying feel like light chop. Is this normal or not? I have tried
all the settings, but the best setting I have found is 2-3 on the
sensitivity and 9 on the pull in.
thanks a lot,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy is drilled |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
This is somewhat comical. I received some of the same comments however, I am fortunate
to live in an airpark so most know and understand what is involved.
It is certainly a milestone to get the canopy done. In my case I have a tip up.
Everything went well but I did get a crack on the LAST hole I drilled!! I went
on and completely finished the canopy including all of the glass work. It is
now ready for paint and safely tucked into a spare bedroom!!
Good luck on your project.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Jason Sneed wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
> I installed an EZ pilot II (trio) in my RV-6 and it works well usually
> keeping within .03 of cross track. While the autopilot is engaged it is
> not very smooth. It feels like if you slapped the stick with your hand
> (lightly) to make heading corrections. It is not that bad, but I was
> wondering if this is normal? I was hoping there would not be that much
> "feel" difference between hand flying and the autopilot flying but it
> feels very different and I would not want to fly long distances with
> the AP engaged, just because the bump is annoying, it makes smooth air
> hand flying feel like light chop. Is this normal or not? I have tried
> all the settings, but the best setting I have found is 2-3 on the
> sensitivity and 9 on the pull in.
Jason, what you have described is definitely not normal performance for
the EZ-Pilot. You need to get in contact with Jerry at Trio to get this
glitch worked out.
A properly functioning EZ-Pilot will be so smooth you will not be able
to feel the roll corrections in calm air.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Jason this is very abnormal for this unit. For other units this is
normal, but NOT this one.
I would call them directly and they can work through it with you.
I suspect the fine coarse tracking is too high. I think I set mine to 1.
Once on track, I am never more than .01 and 80% of the time is .00
Mike
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jason Sneed
Subject: RV-List: EZ-pilot
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I installed an EZ pilot II (trio) in my RV-6 and it works well usually
keeping within .03 of cross track. While the autopilot is engaged it is
not very smooth. It feels like if you slapped the stick with your hand
(lightly) to make heading corrections. It is not that bad, but I was
wondering if this is normal? I was hoping there would not be that much
"feel" difference between hand flying and the autopilot flying but it
feels very different and I would not want to fly long distances with
the AP engaged, just because the bump is annoying, it makes smooth air
hand flying feel like light chop. Is this normal or not? I have tried
all the settings, but the best setting I have found is 2-3 on the
sensitivity and 9 on the pull in.
thanks a lot,
Jason Sneed
Commercial Lending Officer
First National Bank and Trust
Message 10
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| Subject: | more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles@hotmail.com>
We have completed the practice piece and done a bunch of extra practice,
cutting dimpling and riviting on scrap and we are about ready to start on
Jim's 7 empanege kit. And we have more FNG questions.
1) We have found that we need a BUNCH more clecos.
Can anyone advise as to where to find the best deal on buying a couple
hundred more clecos?
2) Re removing blue plastic file.
We'd like to leave as much of it on as long as possible to protect the
alclad. What is the best way to remove a narrow strip along the rivet lines
without scoring the metal?
Just getting started,
Wayne & Jim in Niles MI
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
As far as removing the blue plastic I've seen some say they used a
soldering iron to melt the plastic along a thin strip. I've never done
it myself. A heat gun might work as well.
D. Wayne Stiles wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles@hotmail.com>
>
>We have completed the practice piece and done a bunch of extra practice,
>cutting dimpling and riviting on scrap and we are about ready to start on
>Jim's 7 empanege kit. And we have more FNG questions.
>
>1) We have found that we need a BUNCH more clecos.
>Can anyone advise as to where to find the best deal on buying a couple
>hundred more clecos?
>
>2) Re removing blue plastic file.
>We'd like to leave as much of it on as long as possible to protect the
>alclad. What is the best way to remove a narrow strip along the rivet lines
>without scoring the metal?
>
>Just getting started,
>Wayne & Jim in Niles MI
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 11/29/04 11:19:11 AM Central Standard Time,
dwstiles@hotmail.com writes:
> 2) Re removing blue plastic file.
Lay a straight edge (I used an aluminum yardstick) along the rivetlines and
carefully run a hot 15-25 watt soldering pencil/iron with a nicely smoothed tip
on it along the edge. Definately practice on some scrap areas first! You
want to just score the plastic enough to allow it to tear along the score and
avoid going all the way through to the skin. I removed strips about 15mm wide
and it worked out well- time consuming, though!
Have fun-
Mark
Message 13
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| Subject: | more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Wayne -
Pan American Tool has the best price on clecos I could find.
http://www.panamericantool.com/family.cfm?fam=CLECO%20FASTENERS
Neal
RV-7 (tanks - ready to close)
RV-8 (emp)
> We have found that we need a BUNCH more clecos.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Peter Laurence <dr.laurence@mbdi.org>
Wayne & Jim
A good place to get get "clecos" is at a major airshow/convention such as
Sun'n Fun In Lakeland Florida or at Oshkosh.
However, you do need them now so I would suggest Ebay ,Bob Avery or
Cleveland..
To remove the strip of plastic after drilling the holes to a # 40. Draw a
one inche and line on both sides of the hole, Use a soldering gun like a
Weller and free hand it. I would make sure that the tip is smooth so that it
does not scratch the surface.
Peter
----- Original Message -----
From: "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: more FGN questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles@hotmail.com>
>
> We have completed the practice piece and done a bunch of extra practice,
> cutting dimpling and riviting on scrap and we are about ready to start on
> Jim's 7 empanege kit. And we have more FNG questions.
>
> 1) We have found that we need a BUNCH more clecos.
> Can anyone advise as to where to find the best deal on buying a couple
> hundred more clecos?
>
> 2) Re removing blue plastic file.
> We'd like to leave as much of it on as long as possible to protect the
> alclad. What is the best way to remove a narrow strip along the rivet
> lines
> without scoring the metal?
>
> Just getting started,
> Wayne & Jim in Niles MI
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
This worked for me;
The good old pistol grip style Weller soldering iron with a flat blade tip
works very well for removing narrow strips of the plastic protective coating
from the rivet lines etc. Be sure to clean and polish the tip to stop the
tip from leaving scratches.
Jim in Kelowna
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott VanArtsdalen" <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: more FGN questions
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> As far as removing the blue plastic I've seen some say they used a
> soldering iron to melt the plastic along a thin strip. I've never done
> it myself. A heat gun might work as well.
>
> D. Wayne Stiles wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Wayne Stiles" <dwstiles@hotmail.com>
>>
>>We have completed the practice piece and done a bunch of extra practice,
>>cutting dimpling and riviting on scrap and we are about ready to start on
>>Jim's 7 empanege kit. And we have more FNG questions.
>>
>>1) We have found that we need a BUNCH more clecos.
>>Can anyone advise as to where to find the best deal on buying a couple
>>hundred more clecos?
>>
>>2) Re removing blue plastic file.
>>We'd like to leave as much of it on as long as possible to protect the
>>alclad. What is the best way to remove a narrow strip along the rivet
>>lines
>>without scoring the metal?
>>
>>Just getting started,
>>Wayne & Jim in Niles MI
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> Van Arts Consulting Services
> 3848 McHenry Ave
> Suite #155-184
> Modesto, CA 95356
> 209-986-4647
> Ps 34:4,6
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "D. Wayne Stiles"
>
> We have completed the practice piece and done a bunch of extra practice,
> cutting dimpling and riviting on scrap and we are about ready to start on
> Jim's 7 empanege kit. And we have more FNG questions.
>
> 1) We have found that we need a BUNCH more clecos.
> Can anyone advise as to where to find the best deal on buying a couple
> hundred more clecos?
Clecos 35cents each
http://www.browntool.com/productselect.asp?ProductID=169
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "coolmate_04@cashette.com" <no-reply@cashette.com>
Dear Friend:
Thank you for your email. Your message has not reached my Inbox because you are
not yet on my Approved List. To reach my Inbox, please click on this link. When
I respond to your message, you will be automatically added to my Approved List!
Warm regards,
coolmate_04@cashette.com
__________________________
Note from Cashette:
If you don't see any link above, copy and paste the link below to your browser:
http://home.cashette.com/myCashette/newUser.do?ms=jjewell%40telus.net&mr=coolmate_04%40cashette.com&rid=coolmate_04&name=Jim+Jewell&sec=OD%2Fk&dt=1101757143857
If you are a business, click Business.
-----Original Message:-----
From: "Jim Jewell" jjewell@telus.net
Subject: Re: RV-List: more FGN questions
Sent date: Mon Nov 29 10:50:47 PST 2004
__________________________
Cashette stops spam. 100% effective and free! Go to http://home.cashette.com
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
Anybody using this comm antenna from Van's that goes inside the canopy?
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1101758476-330-27&browse=avionics&product=lowdrag-antennas
How about the comm antenna in the wing tip as seen here:
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=SA-006&Category=0f91b131-8228-4617-98f0-06fea064876c
I'm looking for any practicle comparisons to external bent whip.
Steve
RV7A #2
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
"The Yard" www.yardstore.com has four sizes (new) 3/32", 1/8", 5/32" & 3/16"
for .35 ea. Part#'s 11011, 11012, 11013 & 11014. And 1/4" 11017 @ .75 and
they also have "used cleco's" call 1-800-888-8991 for price & availability
of sizes. KABONG
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> Clecos 35cents each
> http://www.browntool.com/productselect.asp?ProductID=169
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Lists Pummelled by Cashette.com Debacle... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Listers,
Just a quick note to say that I've caught the great Cashette.Com debacle of
2004 and have tried to clean out all of the pending List email queues of
all the "you are not yet on my Approved List" messages. There were about
117 of them queued when I noticed what was going on.
In a nutshell, this guy signed up for all of the Lists and had a "register
with my site" spam filter enabled on his account. When his account started
receiving List messages, it started sending back, "you need to register"
messages back to the various Lists which in turn went to the Lists which in
turn got sent to the same spam filter which in turn sent back a message
indicating that the List needed to register, and so on and so on until, I
suppose, the Internet just blew up! Sheeze, some of these spam systems are
so brain dead!
Anyway, I've cleaned out all of the messages generated by this thing and
put in a permanent block from this cashette.com website so that this
shouldn't be a problem any longer.
Back to Airplane Discussions! :-)
Matt Dralle
List Administrator
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
do not archive
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Search the archives - this has been hashed over many times past, but here's
a quick re-cap.
The wingtip and canopy antennas work (sort of), but there is really NO
comparision to the belly bent whip. Many people (including me) have tried
the wingtip comm antenna (in fact it's still in my plane-unhooked), but
installed a bent whip fairly quickly.
The sound clarity, distance and overall useability of the bent whips is
quite far superior to the wingtip antennas.
That being said, the wingtip NAV antennas work quite well (both VOR/ILS).
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
sjhdcl@kingston.net
Subject: RV-List: Comm Antenna
--> RV-List message posted by: sjhdcl@kingston.net
Anybody using this comm antenna from Van's that goes inside the canopy?
http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1101758476-330-27&brow
se=avionics&product=lowdrag-antennas
How about the comm antenna in the wing tip as seen here:
http://www.aerocraftparts.com/ItemForm.aspx?item=SA-006&Category=0f91b131-82
28-4617-98f0-06fea064876c
I'm looking for any practicle comparisons to external bent whip.
Steve
RV7A #2
Message 22
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<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | The Skinny on LOE |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
Well, after calling the Chamber of Commerce, Mayors Office, and other various city
and airport offices, I think I finally got the skinny on why LOE is moving.
Once again, it boils down to personalities and politics. I was told there
is a personality conflict between Red and the owners of Adventure Aviation. Red
decided to pull out. The details I was given do not bear repeating, but IMHO
I think both parties should work out their differences, especially in light
of the post on Doug Reeves site questioning the new facilities. I spoke with
the staff of Adventure Aviation, who assured me they will be hosting and welcoming
the fly-in again next year and hopefully in the years to come. They have
already send out invitation cards to people who registered this past year, and
are planning on sending out more cards in the future.. So LOE 2005 at Las
Cruces is on! I hope this helps folks out. I was just a curious party. Glenn
in Arizona -9A fuselage.
Message 23
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| Subject: | ACS2002 Fuel Floats |
--> RV-List message posted by: RobHickman@aol.com
Fuel Level
The ACS2002 stores two sets of calibration numbers for each tank. The
ACS2002 uses the ground calibration numbers when the RPM is less than 1200 RPM
and
the flight calibration numbers when the RPM is greater than 1200 RPM. This
feature enables the fuel gauges to read correct on the ground for a tail wheel
equipped airplanes. If your plane does not have a tail wheel you should set
the ground and flight data to the same calibration number.
Calibration Tips:
Fuel tank sensors are not accurate when the tank is near full. Once you
notice the reading not changing much or not corresponding with the rest of the
readings during calibration the last few entries in the fuel calibration data
should read the same value.
If the tanks do not consistently show full you should lower the digital
value for the tank full data.
The fuel gauge will only show the digital fuel amount for the highest
reading that the float changed with a plus sign indicating that the correct fuel
amount is not known but is over the last reading. The analog gauge will show
full for the last changing reading. It is normal for a 18 gallon tank to show
16.2+ when it is full. This indicates that the float stopped changing at 16.2
gallons and this is the highest fuel reading that can be detected by the
float in the tank.
Rob Hickman
Advanced Flight Systems
(503) 598-7727
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Capacitive sending unit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
Thanks to all of you who gave me info and advice regarding the capacitive
fuel sender. I think I'm going to use it even with the extreme difference
in gauge cost.
Bill in Albion
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie England" <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Capacitive sending unit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
> >
> >I would also add that the capacitance system does away with the single
> >biggest source of leaks on these tanks...the penetration for the sender.
The
> >only place it can leak is around the small BNC connector on the inboard
rib
> >(not likely). The installation is not hard, just takes some time and
> >patience. The only drawback I can see is the cost of the
> >instruments....assuming you are not using something fancier than just
fuel
> >level indicators. I understand they will run somewhere around 500
> >bucks......a lot compared to the old standby stewart warner type. Maybe
> >someone who has installed them can comment further on the price. Over all
I
> >think they are pretty neat......
> >Evan Johnson
> >www.evansaviationproducts.com
> >(530)351-1776 cell
> >(530)247-0375
> >
> >
>
> An alternative capacitive probe is available from a company called
> SkySports. It's available as a bendable rod. The most recent catalog I
> have lists the probes at $85 ea & a dual gauge with 2 probes is $275.
> The web site says that the probes can be configured to work with
> existing gauges. I don't have personal experience with them but a
> friend used them in his -6 & is happy with them.
>
> http://www.airstuff.com/fuelmon.html
>
> Charlie
>
>
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: <quinn.talley@cox.net>
Does anyone have experience with a Avery's $65 Click-Type 20 to 200 inch-pound
torque wrench? I have one on order, but there may be time to upgrade if needed.
Anyone know the range of torque values required on the RV-10 (QB)?
Anyone know whether the required accuracy of torque values on the RV dictate periodic
calibration of the torque wrench?
Thanks,
Quinn Talley
RV10 Tail Cone
40295
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: ACS2002 Fuel Floats |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 11/29/04 6:22:34 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
RobHickman@aol.com writes:
> The fuel gauge will only show the digital fuel amount for the highest
> reading that the float changed with a plus sign indicating that the correct
> fuel
> amount is not known but is over the last reading. The analog gauge will
> show
> full for the last changing reading. It is normal for a 18 gallon tank to
> show
> 16.2+ when it is full. This indicates that the float stopped changing at
> 16.2
> gallons and this is the highest fuel reading that can be detected by the
> float in the tank.
> Rob Hickman
> Advanced Flight Systems
> (503) 598-7727
>
>
Why not put 2 capacitive sender units in the tanks, one in the inboard
location, and one in the outboard end of the tank? Then let the computer figure
out
how much fuel is in there.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Van's gauges, resistive sensors)
Message 27
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Whirl Wind Propellers Corp <wwpc@whirlwindpropellers.com>
| Subject: | Whirl Wind reply. |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Howdy,
In case anyone was curious about the care and feeding of the Whirl Wind prop "designed"
for RVs, I received the following info from them on that very subject.
I am shocked. Full teardown every 250 hours?
hmmm....Checkoway would have his in the shop and be without a plane at least twice
a year! And $350 to boot? I didn't even ask if there were East Coast overhaul
shops.
Are folks flying this prop really going through this? I'd like to hear.
Wow, makes the heavy, noisy but cheaper Hartzell seem like a steal at the moment.
What's the Hartzell designed blade life on a Magneto fired Lycoming? 40,000
hours? 20,000? TBO 1000 hours?
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
> Hello Lucky,
>
> Thank you for your email. For your RV-8, the 200RV would be an ideal propeller
> choice. You can read about the performance on www.rv-8.com
>
> The current maintenance requirement is a full teardown and blade inspection
> every 250 hours. The cost of this teardown is $350 for the 200RV.
>
> If you would like to place an order, all that is required is a deposit of $1,000
> with the balance due prior to shipment of the propeller. I currently have an
> opening for delivery in May 2005.
>
> Sincerely,
> -Patti
> Whirl Wind Propellers
> 619-562-3725
Howdy,
In case anyone was curious about the care and feeding of the Whirl Wind prop "designed"
for RVs, I received the following info from them on that very subject.
I am shocked. Full teardown every 250 hours?
hmmm....Checkoway would havehis in the shop and be without a planeat least twice
a year! And $350 to boot?I didn't even ask if there were East Coast overhaul
shops.
Are folks flying this prop really going through this? I'd like to hear.
Wow, makes the heavy, noisy but cheaperHartzell seem like a steal at the moment.
What's the Hartzelldesigned blade life on a Magneto fired Lycoming? 40,000 hours?
20,000? TBO 1000 hours?
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
Hello Lucky,
Thank you for your email. For your RV-8, the 200RV would be an ideal propeller
choice. You can read about the performance on www.rv-8.com
The current maintenance requirement is a full teardown and blade inspection
every 250 hours. The cost of this teardown is $350 for the 200RV.
If you would like to place an order, all that is required is a deposit of $1,000
with the balance due prior to shipment of the propeller. I currently have an
opening for delivery in May 2005.
Sincerely,
-Patti
Whirl Wind Propellers
619-562-3725
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 09:12 PM 11/24/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 11/24/04 8:29:47 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net writes:
>
> > > If you do the math, it would take nearly 8 tons to break a 7075
> > aluminum
> > >hold down (with a 3/8" threaded shaft.). The rope will break first. Next,
> > >the spar will buckle. Next, the four 10-32 bolts holding the mount in
> place
> >
> > >will shear.
> > >
>
>I did the math and only got 3.87 tons.
I meant to say "nearly 8,000 pounds" instead of " nearly 8 tons".
Sorry.
Still, this is probably more than the mount will take and
certainly more than the spar will take as a point load in the center of the
span.
If you stick with aluminum, galvanic action will not be a problem.
You can anodize or Alodine the 7075 tie down.
>I am not sure what math you are using, but according to the formulas in
>the machinists handbook, a 3/8" bolt with 18 TPI made of 7075 Al with
>70ksi yield strength gives an ultimate yield of approximately 6000 lbs.
>Normally parts like these are rated at 1/4 the ultimate yield which
>means a rating of 1500 lbs - well under 8 tons.
See above. I used 73 ksi in the calculation. Ultimate yield for
7075 will be between 76 and 83 ksi, depending on the temper.
All you really need to do is compare the tie down to the mount and
the spar. Is the tie down as strong or stronger? If so, then it is OK.
Fatigue will work on all parts in proportion to their strength
(stress.) If the tie down is the strongest (least stressed) aluminum
element, other, weaker (more stressed) aluminum elements in the system will
fail in fatigue first. Thus, you need not bother doing the fatigue
calculations on the strongest (least stressed) element. (Don't worry about
the 1/4 rating for this part.)
The wings are designed to withstand +9 g's -4.5 g's maximum. This
is less than +5,000 lbs -2,500 lbs each, at the root. The tie downs exert a
negative load to the wing at the center of the wing. The wing spar will
fold at the root at a load of -2,500 lbs. (It will also fold in the center
at about -2500 lbs.) Thus, using a tie down that has an ultimate strength
(not a working strength) of over 2,500 lbs will hold the middle of the wing
spar in place while the rest of the airplane deforms around it, (assuming
the mount doesn't tear loose first.)
>All that said, titanium and the garden variety steel tiedown rings are
>not much more than that, so an aluminum tiedown would work likely just
>fine.
The hardware store 3/8" eye bolt that is recommended will have a
yield strength of something like 50 ksi. A 7075 tie down will be 40%
stronger and won't corrode the aluminum mount.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: ACS2002 Fuel Floats |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Why not put 2 capacitive sender units in the tanks, one in the inboard
> location, and one in the outboard end of the tank? Then let the computer
figure out
> how much fuel is in there.
You've described exactly what Van's capacitive kit comes with -- two plates
per tank -- and is what I've got on my -7 with the ACS2002. No moving
parts. No dihedral "shadowing." Also no importance imho. If you're
relying heavily on your fuel quantity gauge(s) you're probably doing
something wrong. ;-)
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: more FGN questions |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Bobby Hester wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Wayne Stiles"
>>
>>We have completed the practice piece and done a bunch of extra practice,
>>cutting dimpling and riviting on scrap and we are about ready to start on
>>Jim's 7 empanege kit. And we have more FNG questions.
>>
>>1) We have found that we need a BUNCH more clecos.
>>Can anyone advise as to where to find the best deal on buying a couple
>>hundred more clecos?
>>
>>
>
>Clecos 35cents each
>http://www.browntool.com/productselect.asp?ProductID=169
>
>
>-------
>
>
I think you can get them from Van for about the same price..
Jerry
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | titanium tie down bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Young" <gyoung@cs-sol.com>
Lest we get too embroiled in stress analysis, the limiting factor will
likely be the ground anchor. Unless you're using a permanent anchor embedded
in the ramp the highest pullout strength I've seen for any portable anchor
was about 600 lbs. with most around 2-400 lbs. We might tear up some sod but
I don't think we're going to break any metal regardless of the material.
Greg
> > > >hold down (with a 3/8" threaded shaft.). The rope will
> break first.
> > > >Next, the spar will buckle. Next, the four 10-32 bolts
> holding the
> > > >mount in
> > place
> > >
> > > >will shear.
> > > >
> -2500 lbs.) Thus, using a tie down that has an ultimate
> strength (not a working strength) of over 2,500 lbs will hold
> the middle of the wing spar in place while the rest of the
> airplane deforms around it, (assuming the mount doesn't tear
> loose first.)
>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming (O-320) Crankcase Ventilation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
G'day Bryan,
You might consider this. Make up a fitting that incorporates a reed valve
(flapper valve) that goes on the engine breather hose. This acts as a
one-way valve, letting crankcase pressure escape but creates a small
negative pressure situation in the case. We use such a system on our Harley
race motors which are notorious for pressurising the cases. We use stainless
reeds that were common with 2-stroke dirtbikes, most of which use
carbonfibre now. Just make sure it has sufficient flow.
Simpler still, just cut the end of the breather hose on an angle and stick
it into the airstream facing aft...
Cheers
Martin in Oz
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lycoming (O-320) Crankcase Ventilation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Experience based comments below...
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
Subject: RV-List: Re: Lycoming (O-320) Crankcase Ventilation
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
>
>
> G'day Bryan,
>
> You might consider this. Make up a fitting that incorporates a reed valve
> (flapper valve) that goes on the engine breather hose. This acts as a
> one-way valve, letting crankcase pressure escape but creates a small
> negative pressure situation in the case. We use such a system on our
> Harley
> race motors which are notorious for pressurising the cases. We use
> stainless
> reeds that were common with 2-stroke dirtbikes, most of which use
> carbonfibre now. Just make sure it has sufficient flow.
>
> Simpler still, just cut the end of the breather hose on an angle and stick
> it into the airstream facing aft...
Not a good idea. I had an experience 3 years ago (I think?) where I lost
quite a bit of oil due to an aft facing breather vent and an unfastened
dipstick. Made a real mess on the belly of the aircraft, and if the flight
had been 1 hour instead of 15 minutes, I'd have run the engine out of oil.
The story is in the archives, and Van's published a slightly more formal
version in the RVator...
KB
> Cheers
>
> Martin in Oz
>
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: Whirl Wind reply. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
The "blade life" on a C2YK-1BF and C2YL-1BF is 8,700 hours . . . They don't
show a time for the "blended airfoil" prop.
I'm about ready to order a prop for my RV-8 . . . probably will go
Hartzell - blended airfoil . . . if nothing else is seems to be the low cost
option, is certified, and would probably raise fewer eyebrows when it come
time to sell.
Regards,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Builder - SE Iowa
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
<Mid-AtlRVwing@yahoogroups.com>; "Whirl Wind Propellers Corp"
<wwpc@whirlwindpropellers.com>
Subject: RV-List: Whirl Wind reply.
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> Howdy,
> In case anyone was curious about the care and feeding of the Whirl Wind
prop "designed" for RVs, I received the following info from them on that
very subject.
>
> I am shocked. Full teardown every 250 hours?
>
> hmmm....Checkoway would have his in the shop and be without a plane at
least twice a year! And $350 to boot? I didn't even ask if there were East
Coast overhaul shops.
>
> Are folks flying this prop really going through this? I'd like to hear.
>
> Wow, makes the heavy, noisy but cheaper Hartzell seem like a steal at the
moment. What's the Hartzell designed blade life on a Magneto fired
Lycoming? 40,000 hours? 20,000? TBO 1000 hours?
>
> Lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > Hello Lucky,
> >
> > Thank you for your email. For your RV-8, the 200RV would be an ideal
propeller
> > choice. You can read about the performance on www.rv-8.com
> >
> > The current maintenance requirement is a full teardown and blade
inspection
> > every 250 hours. The cost of this teardown is $350 for the 200RV.
> >
> > If you would like to place an order, all that is required is a deposit
of $1,000
> > with the balance due prior to shipment of the propeller. I currently
have an
> > opening for delivery in May 2005.
> >
> > Sincerely,
> > -Patti
> > Whirl Wind Propellers
> > 619-562-3725
>
> Howdy,
> In case anyone was curious about the care and feeding of the Whirl Wind
prop "designed" for RVs, I received the following info from them on that
very subject.
>
> I am shocked. Full teardown every 250 hours?
>
> hmmm....Checkoway would havehis in the shop and be without a planeat least
twice a year! And $350 to boot?I didn't even ask if there were East Coast
overhaul shops.
>
> Are folks flying this prop really going through this? I'd like to hear.
>
> Wow, makes the heavy, noisy but cheaperHartzell seem like a steal at the
moment. What's the Hartzelldesigned blade life on a Magneto fired Lycoming?
40,000 hours? 20,000? TBO 1000 hours?
>
> Lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> Hello Lucky,
>
> Thank you for your email. For your RV-8, the 200RV would be an ideal
propeller
> choice. You can read about the performance on www.rv-8.com
>
> The current maintenance requirement is a full teardown and blade
inspection
> every 250 hours. The cost of this teardown is $350 for the 200RV.
>
> If you would like to place an order, all that is required is a deposit of
$1,000
> with the balance due prior to shipment of the propeller. I currently have
an
> opening for delivery in May 2005.
>
> Sincerely,
> -Patti
> Whirl Wind Propellers
> 619-562-3725
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming (O-320) Crankcase Ventilation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Hmmm... I'd rather blow all that oil out the breather vent than the front
seal!! *Lot* less messy!! ;) ;)
Lots of good ideas. Thanks for all the comments. Gives me something to
work with in the coming months of less good weather.
Thanks again.
Bryan
>From: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Lycoming (O-320) Crankcase Ventilation
>Date: Mon, 29 Nov 2004 22:24:30 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
>
>Experience based comments below...
>
>KB
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
>To: <RV-List@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Re: Lycoming (O-320) Crankcase Ventilation
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
> >
> >
> > G'day Bryan,
> >
> > You might consider this. Make up a fitting that incorporates a reed
>valve
> > (flapper valve) that goes on the engine breather hose. This acts as a
> > one-way valve, letting crankcase pressure escape but creates a small
> > negative pressure situation in the case. We use such a system on our
> > Harley
> > race motors which are notorious for pressurising the cases. We use
> > stainless
> > reeds that were common with 2-stroke dirtbikes, most of which use
> > carbonfibre now. Just make sure it has sufficient flow.
> >
> > Simpler still, just cut the end of the breather hose on an angle and
>stick
> > it into the airstream facing aft...
>
>Not a good idea. I had an experience 3 years ago (I think?) where I lost
>quite a bit of oil due to an aft facing breather vent and an unfastened
>dipstick. Made a real mess on the belly of the aircraft, and if the flight
>had been 1 hour instead of 15 minutes, I'd have run the engine out of oil.
>
>The story is in the archives, and Van's published a slightly more formal
>version in the RVator...
>
>KB
>
>
> > Cheers
> >
> > Martin in Oz
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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