Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:31 AM - XCOM 760 radio pictures (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
2. 05:56 AM - Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
3. 07:13 AM - Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron (George Steube)
4. 07:45 AM - Air/Fuel Inbalance (Wheeler North)
5. 08:00 AM - Re: Re: Cold/Lean Cylinders (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
6. 08:02 AM - Re: Re: Cold/Lean Cylinders (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
7. 08:07 AM - Panel Lighting (Tony Marshall)
8. 08:27 AM - Re: Panel Lighting (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
9. 08:42 AM - Re: Panel Lighting (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
10. 09:19 AM - Re: Panel Lighting (Ed Bundy)
11. 09:42 AM - fuel tank building (Evan and Megan Johnson)
12. 09:57 AM - Re: fuel tank building (Sam Buchanan)
13. 11:20 AM - OT - Cheap headsets needed (Mickey Coggins)
14. 11:33 AM - Buying my engine (Dwight Frye)
15. 11:38 AM - Re: OT - Cheap headsets needed (Bill VonDane)
16. 11:54 AM - Re: OT - Cheap headsets needed (George Neal E Capt AU/PC)
17. 12:03 PM - Re: Panel Lighting (Greg.Puckett@united.com)
18. 12:27 PM - Re: OT - Cheap headsets needed (Bobby Hester)
19. 12:44 PM - Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports (Mark Schrimmer)
20. 01:13 PM - Re: Panel Lighting (Bill Dube)
21. 01:47 PM - Re: Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports (Mickey Coggins)
22. 01:49 PM - Re: OT - Cheap headsets needed (Larry Bowen)
23. 02:27 PM - Re: Panel Lighting (Mickey Coggins)
24. 03:14 PM - Re: Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports (David Carter)
25. 03:50 PM - Re: Buying my engine (Jim Jewell)
26. 03:53 PM - test (Jim Jewell)
27. 04:00 PM - Re: fuel tank building (Evan and Megan Johnson)
28. 04:17 PM - Re: Re: Cold/Lean Cylinders (Alex Peterson)
29. 04:31 PM - Re: fuel tank building (Sam Buchanan)
30. 04:38 PM - Re: Buying my engine (J. R. Dial)
31. 05:54 PM - Re: Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
32. 05:57 PM - Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron (Charlie England)
33. 06:17 PM - Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron (Scott VanArtsdalen)
34. 07:15 PM - Re: Re: Cold/Lean Cylinders (Vanremog@aol.com)
35. 07:27 PM - Re: Fw: E-MAG Order (Vanremog@aol.com)
36. 07:54 PM - Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
37. 08:11 PM - Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron (Scott VanArtsdalen)
38. 09:31 PM - Re: Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports (HCRV6@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | XCOM 760 radio pictures |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/xcom760.html
After the long, hard time I had getting this thing once I place my original order,
it finally arrived and so far works as advertised on the ground. Since no
one on the list ever published a picture when I asked for one I throw a couple
of them out there so here's a couple of pictures showing you just how small
it is. (I hate comcast's publishing wizard program - anyone have one that's easy
drop and drag picture and text buildup?) I wish I could convey how light it
is too. Amazing. Built in VOX works great too but it's been all on the ground
so far. The Wiring harness came with the connectors already on which made
installing some the rear seat stuff a challenge since there were no holes that
big in the plane. They all had to be redone or cut the wire up and route then
reconnect. I chose to open the holes. You may want to ask for the connectors
not hooked up.
Lucky
http://home.comcast.net/~luckymacy/xcom760.html
Afterthe long, hard time I had getting this thing once I place my original order,
it finally arrived and so far works as advertised on the ground. Since no one
on the list ever published a picture when I asked for one I throw a couple
of them out there so here's a couple of pictures showing you just how small it
is.(I hate comcast's publishing wizard program - anyone haveone that's easy drop
and drag picture and text buildup?)I wish I could convey how light it is too.
Amazing. Built in VOX works great too but it's been all on the ground so far.
The Wiring harness came with the connectors already on which made installing
some the rear seat stuff a challenge since there were no holes that big in
the plane. They all had to be redone or cut the wire up and route then reconnect.
I chose to open the holes. You may want to ask for the connectors not hooked
up.
Lucky
Message 2
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| Subject: | Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron |
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
This is a QB -8
Cut out my wing form, mounted my aileron, began to
position the flap with the 1/4 gap between the flap and
aileron ........The trailing edge of the flap when the piano
hinge is as it should be is 3/16" short. The hinge was already
mounted to the flap. If I postion the flap so the
trailing edges line up the hinge is too thin. I searched the archives
and one mention of a larger hinge was mentioned, and only mentioned.
What am I missing here ???
RV-4
RV-8 Tail
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
Message 3
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| Subject: | Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Steube" <at6c@bellsouth.net>
Nothing!!! The flap hinge is in the wrong place. I had the same situation
on my QB-8. I called Van's and was basically told too bad. I ask they
supply a wider hinge to use on the trailing edge, since it was their
building error and was told I could buy it from them if I wanted it. I
bought it from Wick's. I will also buy a lot other things from Wicks
instead of Van's.
George
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of CBRxxDRV@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
This is a QB -8
Cut out my wing form, mounted my aileron, began to
position the flap with the 1/4 gap between the flap and
aileron ........The trailing edge of the flap when the piano
hinge is as it should be is 3/16" short. The hinge was already
mounted to the flap. If I postion the flap so the
trailing edges line up the hinge is too thin. I searched the archives
and one mention of a larger hinge was mentioned, and only mentioned.
What am I missing here ???
RV-4
RV-8 Tail
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
Message 4
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| Subject: | Air/Fuel Inbalance |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
A few thoughts on this issue.
If the carb is installed in the normal position the throttle lever is on the
right side. This puts the pivot line of the throttle plate bisecting
cylinders 1 & 2 from 3 & 4. I just checked all 12 MS carbs sitting in my
cabinet and they are all designed to have the throttle shaft move CCW when
facing the throttle lever to open. This means the Fwd edge of the throttle
plate moves up and the Aft edge moves down.
With the discharge nozzle directly below this, this should cause fuel to be
pushed to the fwd side until the throttle plate is mostly open. Additionally
the angle of the discharge nozzle would tend to also aggravate this.
Since this does jive with the symptoms described, why don't all MS carbs
have this problem? And, I'm not sure that they don't given that we have no
way to determine if cylinder temperature variences are due to variences in
cooling vs variences in mixture.
Consequently, I have always thought this to be one of the weak aspects of
carburetors, but have never really proved it causes problems universally.
One interesting (but not easy) experiment would be to turn the carb around
and see if the problem flipped.
Another possibility is that something in the air filter is exacerbating the
weakness of the carb.
This problem may also go away as the temperature rises due to better
vaporization. I don't remember if you said it was effected by carb heat or
not? Also, is your oil temp up to snuff. The lycoming sump plays a big role
in induction and vaporization.
Also, my experience has been that drilling jets causes more problems than it
solves unless you have a good machine shop to make a perfect hole. I would
look to buying a larger jet before I drilled one of these.
Another aspect of this is these "tubes" integrate the metering jet, the main
and economizer airbleed jets and the discharge tube all into one unit.
Drilling one of these may not take you towards the desired balance. I also
don't see where making everything richer is going to fix the rear half
without negatively impacting the front half.
W
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cold/Lean Cylinders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Linn,
I tested the cylinder intakes using a vacuum cleaner and sprayed carb
cleaner
all around each cylinder inlet areas. If there was a crack, I should have
seen
carb clearer inside the inlet ports.
I've also put a vacuum cleaner on the bottom of the sump and checked for
vacuum leaks on all the inlet tubes/gaskets....
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
> This appears to be a fuel sharing issue. I might have to put a
honeycomb
>air flow straightener between the sump and the carb to fix the
problem....
>
I keep having this nagging feeling that you still have an induction
leak. I know .... you said you don't have any leaks ..... but how did
you check? Did you do the vacuum cleaner test???
Linn
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Cold/Lean Cylinders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Alex,
I'm showing about 11.2 GPH at full throttle on climb out and
in cruise at full throttle...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Fred,
What fuel flow do you have at full power, full rich, at or near sea
level?
And what hp engine?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 559 hours
Maple Grove, MN
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
In my RV6 are two directionally beamable 'eyeball' lights placed to illuminate
my panel. They are mounted on each side of the cockpit just below the slider
rail a bit ahead of the pilot/co-pilot's shoulders. In real darkness I find the
light to be too bright and the beam insufficiently diffused across the panel.
I think the problem could be lessened by somehow making those lights "red".
Does anyone have any ideas on how one might make them red? Thanks.
Tony Marshall
www.lambros.com
P.O. Box 906
Polson, MT 59860
800-432-6828 Office
406-249-0835 Cell
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Panel Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 12/7/04 11:09:54 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
tony@lambros.com writes:
> Does anyone have any ideas on how one might make them red? Thanks.
>
> Tony Marshall
>
Tony,
I think you could paint the bulbs red with "clear red" fingernail polish.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since July)
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
A red Sharpie or a drop of thinned nail polish...
Apply several coast till you get the desired result.
Neal
> Does anyone have any ideas on how one might make them red? Thanks.
Tony Marshall
<
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
I have the same setup in my 6a, and I just put the eyeballs on a rheostat.
That way I can dim them as much as necessary based on ambient light, but
still have bright white light available when needed.
Ed Bundy - RV6A 600+ hours
Eagle, Idaho
> In my RV6 are two directionally beamable 'eyeball' lights placed
> to illuminate my panel. They are mounted on each side of the
> cockpit just below the slider rail a bit ahead of the
> pilot/co-pilot's shoulders. In real darkness I find the light to
> be too bright and the beam insufficiently diffused across the
> panel. I think the problem could be lessened by somehow making
> those lights "red". Does anyone have any ideas on how one might
> make them red? Thanks.
>
---
Message 11
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| Subject: | fuel tank building |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Gentlemen, I have recently had several inquiries on the same subject, so I thought
I would just post my answer to all. The question has been whether or not I
would be willing to seal tanks for builders who have already drilled and dimpled
the parts.......essentially taken the tanks up to the point where the proseal
comes into play. Well, I prefer to build the whole tank, but the answer is
yes. I will work with you at whatever stage of building you have reached. There
are a few airplanes like the rockets and the RV 3, that I do not have tank
jigs for, so this is really the only viable option. I typically offer to build
these projects on a time and materials basis. The labor from this point on is
usually very close to the half way point in tank assembly. If you go to my website
or call me, you can get the specifics for your particular model. It is
important that you keep everything in order and label your parts so I can reassemble
them. Please mark the left tank parts with a red sharpie pen and the right
with green or black. The number 1 rib is the most inboard and so on. Also
mark the fuel cap flange with an arrow pointing forward to the leading edge. The
inspection plate reinforcing ring will also need a mark so I can get it back
in the right orientation. Really the more notation you use the easier it will
be to put the puzzle back together. To make sure you have included all of the
hardware I will need, please download a parts list off of my website, or call
and I will fax one. I will take care of the sealing and pressure checking from
here.......I have built well over 200 sets of RV tanks to date. You can expect
excellent workmanship and perfect seals. I do not make a mess of the sealant
and I use only what I need to do the job properly. (think light weight). Feel
free to email or call me any time with questions.
Cheers.....
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776cell
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank building |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<snip>
....I have built well over 200 sets of RV tanks to date.
> You can expect excellent workmanship and perfect seals. I do not make
> a mess of the sealant and I use only what I need to do the job
> properly. (think light weight).
Evan, how much sealer do you use for a set of tanks?
Sam Buchanan
Message 13
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| Subject: | OT - Cheap headsets needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Not directly RV related, but hopefully someone on the list
can give me some tips. I'm looking for some real cheap headsets
to use for the *very* occasional passenger - like once or twice
a year. I've been borrowing a set from the flight club, but
from time to time they are all loaned out. Any ideas most welcome.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 14
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| Subject: | Buying my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
I am currently working on my QB fuselage, and am wanting to order my
finishing kit before the end of the calendar year. This has me thinking
more pointedly about engine selections. I have questions, and want to
tap the collective wisdom here.
One question is regarding at what point in construction do I _need_ to
have the engine in hand? For you smart-alecks, I do know I've got to
have it before I fly (and before I fit the cowl, etc.). :) But what
is the first point in the construction process where having it on hand
is *really* useful (or even mandatory)?
To set a baseline for the next questions, I'll say that I'm building an
RV-7 and that I've already decided on 180HP, fuel injection, and CS prop.
Which prop is still under consideration, however. :)
The other questions I have are regarding various configuration options.
I realize that there may be no "right answer" to these sorts of questions,
but I'm going to ask 'em anyway. What is "better" ... horizontal or
vertical induction? Dynafocal 1 or Dynafocal 2? And if folks have any
input on various engine suppliers, I'm game to hear them (though I have
been reading along here for years, and already have a bit of a feel for
some of the favorite players).
Thanks!
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: OT - Cheap headsets needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Mickey... I just gave one away... I bet you can find someone who has a set
they don't use anymore...
-Bill
do not archive...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: OT - Cheap headsets needed
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Not directly RV related, but hopefully someone on the list
can give me some tips. I'm looking for some real cheap headsets
to use for the *very* occasional passenger - like once or twice
a year. I've been borrowing a set from the flight club, but
from time to time they are all loaned out. Any ideas most welcome.
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 16
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| Subject: | OT - Cheap headsets needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: George Neal E Capt AU/PC <Neal.George@MAXWELL.AF.MIL>
Mickey -
Consider the LightSpeed QFR Cross Country series.
Neal
> Headsets to use for the *very* occasional passenger <
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE: Panel Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg.Puckett@united.com
Tony,
What lamp does your eyeball light take=3F
Most standard lamps, ex. GE1816, are available in an 'R' version. Adding
the R to the part number(1816R) denotes the lamp glass itself is red.
Finding them can be tough sometimes.
I see Chief has the GE 313R but that's the only red bulb they stock.
Greg
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: OT - Cheap headsets needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
http://www.ebay.com/
or use this direct link to Headsets: http://tinyurl.com/4tcgh
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 07 Dec 2004 20:20 (CDT)
> Subject: RV-List: OT - Cheap headsets needed
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>
> Hi,
>
> Not directly RV related, but hopefully someone on the list
> can give me some tips. I'm looking for some real cheap headsets
> to use for the *very* occasional passenger - like once or twice
> a year. I've been borrowing a set from the flight club, but
> from time to time they are all loaned out. Any ideas most welcome.
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 19
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| Subject: | Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer@pacbell.net>
Would ProSeal work to seal the thin plastic tube to the pop rivets in Van's
static system, or should I stick to RTV? I have to mix up some ProSeal for
something else, so I thought I might use it to seal the static ports, too.
Thanks,
Mark
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Panel Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 09:06 AM 12/7/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>
>In my RV6 are two directionally beamable 'eyeball' lights placed to
>illuminate my panel. They are mounted on each side of the cockpit just
>below the slider rail a bit ahead of the pilot/co-pilot's shoulders. In
>real darkness I find the light to be too bright and the beam
>insufficiently diffused across the panel. I think the problem could be
>lessened by somehow making those lights "red". Does anyone have any ideas
>on how one might make them red? Thanks.
I'm not sure what type bulb is involved. You can buy red LED
substitute bulbs for a very limited number of bulb styles. These would be
the easiest fix if you are lucky.
Here is a link to a company that has quite a few 12 volt LEDs with
standard bases: http://www.americanbrightled.com/
>>>> Building your own LED substitute bulb <<<<
It isn't that difficult to make your own LED bulb substitute. You
use the base from an incandescent bulb, smash the bulb itself, then connect
the LED and ballast resistor to the wires. Pot the wires in clear epoxy.
Make sure that the short wire of the LED connects to the positive lead
(usually the center) of the bulb base.
Selecting the correct LED is not that difficult. First figure out
what "viewing angle" you need. That is, how you want the light from the LED
to spread out. Next, figure out how many candlepower you need. Put an
"incident light" type photographic meter 1 ft away from the existing light
and read the candlepower. Next, peruse the web www.Digikey.com,
www.AmericanBrightLED.com, http://www.mpja.com/category/LEDs/LEDs.asp
etc. for bright LEDs
There are some mighty bright LEDs out there. You are very likely
to be able to find a single LED that will put out the cone of light that
you need. If you need a LOT of light, you can group and aim several LEDs.
The ballast resistor for the typical 20 mA LED is 600 ohms, 1/4
watt (or greater). Put the ballast resistor in series with each LED.
>>>>>>>>>>>>
LED lights is what I know:
http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Mark,
I used RTV to "glue" the rivets in there, but RTV would
not stick to the plastic tube at all. I ended up using
a very small zip tie to attach the plastic tube to the
rivet.
Mickey
>Would ProSeal work to seal the thin plastic tube to the pop rivets in Van's
>static system, or should I stick to RTV? I have to mix up some ProSeal for
>something else, so I thought I might use it to seal the static ports, too.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 22
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| Subject: | OT - Cheap headsets needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Ebay.com
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mickey Coggins [mailto:mick-matronics@rv8.ch]
> Sent: Tuesday, December 07, 2004 2:20 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: OT - Cheap headsets needed
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> Not directly RV related, but hopefully someone on the list
> can give me some tips. I'm looking for some real cheap
> headsets to use for the *very* occasional passenger - like
> once or twice a year. I've been borrowing a set from the
> flight club, but from time to time they are all loaned out.
> Any ideas most welcome.
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
> =========
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Panel Lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>LED lights is what I know:
>http://www.killacycle.com/Lights.htm
Bill,
After looking at your web site, it seems like you know
a few other things besides LED lights. Cool stuff. And
I thought wiring my RV8 was a challenge.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I used safety wire and my safety wire pliers to get a good, tight "clamp" on
the plastic tubing over the rivet.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi Mark,
>
> I used RTV to "glue" the rivets in there, but RTV would
> not stick to the plastic tube at all. I ended up using
> a very small zip tie to attach the plastic tube to the
> rivet.
>
> Mickey
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Buying my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dwight,
I expect that you will find that firewall layout time will find you needing
an engine in place.
At least some of the decisions that you make about firewall forward
components and their various positions will be effected by the engine mount
and the engine itself.
I found that mounting the engine to the engine mount then removing and
replacing the assembled unit a few times gave me the best results. I hung
the engine and mount from the ceiling on a chain come along and pushed the
air frame back and forth for fitting sessions.
Having at least a core engine with all the accessories you expect to
utilizes in place would be helpful.
Oil filter - yes or no, oil cooler, various hoses, electrical components,
scat tubes, Fuel metering? etc.. It gets pretty busy back there.
For instance the prop governor with it's control cable mount in place might
have some small differences in size, control cable bracket position and
profile shape that might be different. The choice of props therefore could
have at least a small effect on your particular firewall layout. I used Vans
firewall layout drawing and adjusted per personal preference.
I lack experience with fuel injection, - No technical suggestions re
induction. Getting rid of the lower intake snout on the cowl might be nice?
The question of Dynafocal 1 or 2 might depend on which engine case you wind
up with.
Basically the Dynafocal 1 is Vans standard issue if you choose by from them.
It could also be that Dynafocal 1 is all that is available in the Lycoming
IO 360 series? - Nothing to offer as to D1 verses D2
I expect that Bart Lalonde at Aero Sport Power engines already on your list.
If not add them.
I Hope This Helps,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dwight Frye" <dwight@openweave.org>
> snip<
> One question is regarding at what point in construction do I _need_ to
> have the engine in hand? For you smart-alecks, I do know I've got to
> have it before I fly (and before I fit the cowl, etc.). :) But what
> is the first point in the construction process where having it on hand
> is *really* useful (or even mandatory)?
>
> To set a baseline for the next questions, I'll say that I'm building an
> RV-7 and that I've already decided on 180HP, fuel injection, and CS prop.
> Which prop is still under consideration, however. :)
>
> The other questions I have are regarding various configuration options.
> I realize that there may be no "right answer" to these sorts of questions,
> but I'm going to ask 'em anyway. What is "better" ... horizontal or
> vertical induction? Dynafocal 1 or Dynafocal 2? And if folks have any
> input on various engine suppliers, I'm game to hear them (though I have
> been reading along here for years, and already have a bit of a feel for
> some of the favorite players).
>
> Thanks!
>
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Test do not archive
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank building |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Well it depends on the model of the aircraft. The trick is of course to use
enough to seal the tank without having it build up unnecessarily and add a
bunch (we are talking about pounds here guys) of weight. What you want to
see is that perfect squidge around the ribs and baffle.You may be surprised
at how much weight you can add with too much sealant. In a world or aircraft
people who worry about the weight of the paint on their airframes, this is a
big concern. I have found that most of the time builders use more than is
really necessary. Your airplane I believe is an RV 6, and I typically use
about 2/3 of a can of sealant on the pair. Please remember that I do this
almost every day, so some of this is technique. I always tell my clients
that it's not rocket science, but there is a learning curve. I would caution
that in most cases it is better to use too much rather than too little. The
best choice of all of course is just to send me your parts :)
Evan
http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: fuel tank building
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <snip>
> ....I have built well over 200 sets of RV tanks to date.
> > You can expect excellent workmanship and perfect seals. I do not make
> > a mess of the sealant and I use only what I need to do the job
> > properly. (think light weight).
>
>
> Evan, how much sealer do you use for a set of tanks?
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Cold/Lean Cylinders |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Fred, bingo. If you have a 160 horse, it should be burning about 14 gph at
full throttle, sea level, full rich. If it is a 180, it should be around 16
gph. Somehow, you are not putting enough fuel in. Is the 11.2 at sea level
or close?
Alex Peterson
>
> Alex,
>
> I'm showing about 11.2 GPH at full throttle on climb out
> and in cruise at full throttle...
>
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV
>
>
>
> Fred,
>
> What fuel flow do you have at full power, full rich, at
> or near sea level?
> And what hp engine?
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 559 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: fuel tank building |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> Well it depends on the model of the aircraft. The trick is of course to use
> enough to seal the tank without having it build up unnecessarily and add a
> bunch (we are talking about pounds here guys) of weight. What you want to
> see is that perfect squidge around the ribs and baffle.You may be surprised
> at how much weight you can add with too much sealant. In a world or aircraft
> people who worry about the weight of the paint on their airframes, this is a
> big concern. I have found that most of the time builders use more than is
> really necessary. Your airplane I believe is an RV 6, and I typically use
> about 2/3 of a can of sealant on the pair. Please remember that I do this
> almost every day, so some of this is technique. I always tell my clients
> that it's not rocket science, but there is a learning curve. I would caution
> that in most cases it is better to use too much rather than too little. The
> best choice of all of course is just to send me your parts :)
>
> Evan
> http://www.evansaviationproducts.com/
> (530)247-0375
> (530)351-1776 cell
Thanks for the reply, Evan. I am not surprised at the 2/3 can per pair
of tanks; seems I used between 2/3 and 3/4 can on my tanks. I have
occasionally seen extreme amounts of sealer on tanks that I have
inspected during the course of EAA Tech counselor visits. We even hear
sometimes of a builder ordering *another* can of sealer from Vans! :-)
Sam Buchanan
>>
>>Evan, how much sealer do you use for a set of tanks?
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
>>
>>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Buying my engine |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. R. Dial" <jrdial@hal-pc.org>
In my opinion you can't go wrong using Bart Lalonde at Aerosport
Power for an engine. I followed his advice and I sure am satisfied with
the product and service. I sure would check their website and give them
a call before making a final decision.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dwight Frye
Subject: RV-List: Buying my engine
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
I am currently working on my QB fuselage, and am wanting to order my
finishing kit before the end of the calendar year. This has me thinking
more pointedly about engine selections. I have questions, and want to
tap the collective wisdom here.
One question is regarding at what point in construction do I _need_ to
have the engine in hand? For you smart-alecks, I do know I've got to
have it before I fly (and before I fit the cowl, etc.). :) But what
is the first point in the construction process where having it on hand
is *really* useful (or even mandatory)?
To set a baseline for the next questions, I'll say that I'm building an
RV-7 and that I've already decided on 180HP, fuel injection, and CS
prop.
Which prop is still under consideration, however. :)
The other questions I have are regarding various configuration options.
I realize that there may be no "right answer" to these sorts of
questions,
but I'm going to ask 'em anyway. What is "better" ... horizontal or
vertical induction? Dynafocal 1 or Dynafocal 2? And if folks have any
input on various engine suppliers, I'm game to hear them (though I have
been reading along here for years, and already have a bit of a feel for
some of the favorite players).
Thanks!
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 12/07/2004 3:48:40 PM Central Standard Time,
mick-matronics@rv8.ch writes:
I used RTV to "glue" the rivets in there, but RTV would
not stick to the plastic tube at all. I ended up using
a very small zip tie to attach the plastic tube to the
rivet.
>>>
GOOP- amazing stuff. Use on just about anything but styrofoam (looks like
alien blood going through the deckplates of the Nostromo...)
Mark
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
CBRxxDRV@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
>
>This is a QB -8
>Cut out my wing form, mounted my aileron, began to
>position the flap with the 1/4 gap between the flap and
>aileron ........The trailing edge of the flap when the piano
>hinge is as it should be is 3/16" short. The hinge was already
>mounted to the flap. If I postion the flap so the
>trailing edges line up the hinge is too thin. I searched the archives
>and one mention of a larger hinge was mentioned, and only mentioned.
>What am I missing here ???
>
>
>RV-4
>RV-8 Tail
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL.
> My Home Page
>
If you are saying that the hinge is too narrow to maintain proper edge
distance at the rivet holes, you aren't alone.
My neighbor just went through exactly that on his QB-8 with Van's. He
was effectively told, "Yes, that happens sometimes. you have to buy the
wider flange hinge, drill off the old one & replace it. No, we won't
replace it for free, even though we know it's a problem."
Yes, Van's A/C is a great company.
Perfect? They ain't.
Charlie
(let the flames begin) :-)
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
You could just buy the wider hinge from your favorite supplier, take the
pin out and use the wider half on the area that isn't meeting edge
distance specs.
Charlie England wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
>CBRxxDRV@aol.com wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>>
>>
>>This is a QB -8
>>Cut out my wing form, mounted my aileron, began to
>>position the flap with the 1/4 gap between the flap and
>>aileron ........The trailing edge of the flap when the piano
>>hinge is as it should be is 3/16" short. The hinge was already
>>mounted to the flap. If I postion the flap so the
>>trailing edges line up the hinge is too thin. I searched the archives
>>and one mention of a larger hinge was mentioned, and only mentioned.
>>What am I missing here ???
>>
>>
>>RV-4
>>RV-8 Tail
>>
>>Sal Capra
>>Lakeland, FL.
>>My Home Page
>>
>>
>>
>
>If you are saying that the hinge is too narrow to maintain proper edge
>distance at the rivet holes, you aren't alone.
>
>My neighbor just went through exactly that on his QB-8 with Van's. He
>was effectively told, "Yes, that happens sometimes. you have to buy the
>wider flange hinge, drill off the old one & replace it. No, we won't
>replace it for free, even though we know it's a problem."
>
>Yes, Van's A/C is a great company.
>Perfect? They ain't.
>
>Charlie
>(let the flames begin) :-)
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Cold/Lean Cylinders |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 12/7/2004 8:02:48 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com writes:
I'm showing about 11.2 GPH at full throttle on climb out and
in cruise at full throttle...
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
Fred,
What fuel flow do you have at full power, full rich, at or near sea
level?
And what hp engine?
======================================
That's good for about 120 hp rich, 150 lean.
GV (RV-6A N1GV, Flying 730hrs)
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: E-MAG Order |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
FYI
Do not archive.
GV (RV-6A N1GV, Flying 730hrs)
From: "Brad Dement" <brad@proplink.org>
Subject: E-MAG Order
Dear E-MAG Customers:
We are pleased to report nearing completion of the current batch of
production ignitions. We regret that final assembly has been delayed by a
few back-ordered components. As soon as they arrive units can be assembled,
tested, and shipped. We appreciate your understanding and patience.
In preparation of that day, we will be contacting customers with balances
due to make sure that does not become an impediment to delivery. We have
upgraded our sales/accounting software and altered our product ID references
slightly. We will e-mail copies of current invoice and billing statements
that reflect these changes. We ask that you look them over to make sure
nothing has been omitted. If you have any questions please call (817 448
0555). As a reminder, some of you delayed final decisions on certain
accessories, and we need you to finalize your selections now.
Please note the following:
1. The cost of auto harnesses have been reduced slightly. This reflects a
change in how these units are now offered. Instead of pre-terminated sets,
they will come as assembly kits. This will permit a much cleaner customized
installation, and will allow us to provide higher quality components. The
kit includes a terminal crimping tool, high-performance spiral wound spark
plug wire, high temperature silicone spark plug boots, etc.
2. A standardized shipping charge of $17 has been added.
You also might like knowing that your ignition will incorporate a number of
recent refinements. These changes are largely the result of customer
feedback. We pay close attention to user comments, and hope you will be as
generous as those who precede you. You are the beneficiary of their input.
Please pass the favor along.
1. Mounting Clips (anodized to match the ignition) will be provided at no
additional charge.
2. The overall ignition dimension is roughly 0.90 inches shorter than the
earlier version of the P-MAG. This case size is now standard for the E-MAG
as well as P-MAG models.
3. The coil style has been changed to permit a shorter electronic case
section. With its flat base, this lighter coil will permit easier firewall
mounting (if space limitations require you to do so).
4. The connector yoke is now a detachable 15 pin plug connector with a 4
wire pigtail. The forth wire (new) is a fully protected digital tack
output. It replaces the tack signal that was previously piggy-backing on the
kill lead. The mode selector switch is now located in the connector head.
This will make changing the ignition operating mode much easier. Since the
yoke now a separate assembly, if you decide (or discover) you need to
firewall mount the coil, it is easier to provide a yoke with lengthened coil
leads.
5. The MAP sensor hose connection is a now a single barb brass nipple
located on the side of the ignition case. The size of the MAP sensor tubing
has been enlarged slightly.
6. The installation manual has been expanded to include numerous tips and
photographs. Note: The will be an ongoing evolution.
Thank you again for allowing us to be a part of your project. Please don't
hesitate to call if you have any questions.
Kindest Regards,
Brad Dement
E-MAG Ignitions
649 Boling Ranch Road
Azle, TX 76020
(817)448-0555
---
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron |
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
In a message dated 12/7/04 9:18:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
svanarts@yahoo.com writes:
> You could just buy the wider hinge from your favorite supplier, take the
> pin out and use the wider half on the area that isn't meeting edge
> distance specs.
>
Thanks all for the replies. I am going to order the larger hinge AN257 P4
and that should cure the problem. I did talk to Vans and did come up with the
same answer. As someone said it aint all perfect and I can
live with buying a new hinge.
RV-4
RV-8 QB ....wing
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
That's surprizingly bad customer service on the part of Van's to say in
effect, "Yeah, we built it wrong, too bad."
I love the plane, but brisk sales is a poor excuse for bad customer service.
CBRxxDRV@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/7/04 9:18:32 PM Eastern Standard Time,
>svanarts@yahoo.com writes:
>
>
>
>
>>You could just buy the wider hinge from your favorite supplier, take the
>>pin out and use the wider half on the area that isn't meeting edge
>>distance specs.
>>
>>
>>
>
>Thanks all for the replies. I am going to order the larger hinge AN257 P4
>and that should cure the problem. I did talk to Vans and did come up with the
>
>same answer. As someone said it aint all perfect and I can
>live with buying a new hinge.
>
>
>RV-4
>RV-8 QB ....wing
>
>Sal Capra
>Lakeland, FL
> My Home Page
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Proseal instead of RTV on Van's static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 12/7/04 12:45:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mschrimmer@pacbell.net writes:
<< Would ProSeal work to seal the thin plastic tube to the pop rivets in Van's
static system, or should I stick to RTV? I have to mix up some ProSeal for
something else, so I thought I might use it to seal the static ports, too. >>
ProSeal is a what I used and it seems to be working just fine. Only 13 hours
so far of course.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!!!
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