Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:21 AM - Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron ()
2. 02:52 AM - Re: Hobbyair Pro (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
3. 04:06 AM - Trio Autopilot Control Rod (Francis Malczynski)
4. 04:33 AM - Re: Trio Autopilot Control Rod (Mickey Coggins)
5. 04:49 AM - Re: Vacum Test tool (Larry Bowen)
6. 06:01 AM - Bendix injector (Jeff Dowling)
7. 06:04 AM - Re: Vacuum Test tool (Charlie Kuss)
8. 06:09 AM - Hobby Air Pro ()
9. 06:11 AM - Re: Bendix injector (Scott Bilinski)
10. 06:43 AM - Re: How do you replace the tailwheel bearings? (George P. Tyler)
11. 06:56 AM - GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? (Frazier, Vincent A)
12. 07:33 AM - Re: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? (Bill VonDane)
13. 07:37 AM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive (Richard Tasker)
14. 09:14 AM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive (RV_8 Pilot)
15. 09:37 AM - Re: Vacum Test tool (David Carter)
16. 09:49 AM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive (Dale Mitchell)
17. 09:49 AM - Re: Vacuum Test tool (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
18. 09:53 AM - Re: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
19. 10:16 AM - Aluminum polishing, recap. (Amit Dagan)
20. 10:36 AM - Re: Vacum Test tool (Larry Bowen)
21. 10:36 AM - Another T-34 lost. From AVflash (Bill VonDane)
22. 10:39 AM - polishing aluminum - addendum. (Amit Dagan)
23. 10:51 AM - Re: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? (Mickey Coggins)
24. 10:53 AM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal (Mickey Coggins)
25. 11:02 AM - Re: Aluminum polishing, recap. (Scott Bilinski)
26. 11:17 AM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive (Dale Mitchell)
27. 12:14 PM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive (linn walters)
28. 12:20 PM - polishing aluminum (Amit Dagan)
29. 12:51 PM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive (Dale Mitchell)
30. 12:55 PM - Re: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? (Bill VonDane)
31. 01:05 PM - Re: Vacum Test tool (CW Crane)
32. 01:32 PM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive (linn walters)
33. 02:14 PM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive (RV_8 Pilot)
34. 02:38 PM - Re: polishing aluminum (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
35. 02:49 PM - Re: Trio Autopilot Control Rod (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
36. 03:42 PM - Re: polishing aluminum (J. Rion Bourgeois)
37. 04:48 PM - Re: Hobbyair Pro (Kathleen (rv7))
38. 05:00 PM - Re: polishing aluminum (Jim Jewell)
39. 05:14 PM - Autopilot GPS source switch (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
40. 05:18 PM - Rocket Insurance (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
41. 05:29 PM - Re: Aluminum polishing, recap. (Scott VanArtsdalen)
42. 06:18 PM - Re: Trio Autopilot Control Rod (John D. Heath)
43. 06:51 PM - Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive (Dale Mitchell)
44. 06:55 PM - Re: Aluminum polishing, recap. (Jerry Springer)
45. 07:03 PM - Re: Aluminum polishing, recap. (Richard Sipp)
46. 07:25 PM - Re: How do you replace the tailwheel bearings? (Finn Lassen)
47. 08:04 PM - Re: Autopilot GPS source switch (Sam Buchanan)
48. 10:02 PM - Rocket Rides (Tom Gummo)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Trailing edge - Flaps Aileron |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> Interesting about the blatent lack of concern about fixing one of Vans
> problems, seems they need some attitude adjustment. I had a problem with
an
> order, and cust svc guy just told me flat out that maybe I should take my
> business elswere. I told them what i thought of there "customer no
service"
> Charlie heathco
Instead if preaching to the choir, maybe you guys need to write a letter to
Van. No matter how good a product is, bad service can ruin a product for
me. By the way, this attitude has been around for a very long time. My
first experience with it was when I found the holes in my spars drilled
incorrectly in 1992. I guess they get some real yo-yos on the phone, at
times, with some of the stupidest of questions. Even if that's the case,
there's no reason for any of them to be rude. They're in business because
of us, not in spite of us. If a product has a problem, they need to fix it.
They should also have sent out replacement hinges to those who required
them, if the error was in their court. I'm wondering if Van even knows this
is going on.
Jim Sears in KY
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Hobbyair Pro |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Painted my RV6-A using it and liked it a lot! Works as advertised and never
failed to deliver fresh air. Wish it had an On-Off Switch though.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: Hobbyair Pro
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
>
> Anyone using the Hobbyair Pro that can give comments.
>
> Thanks
> Greg
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Trio Autopilot Control Rod |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Francis Malczynski" <ebbfmm@yahoo.com>
I m trying to install a recently purchased Trio autopilot in a flying RV6
and Im looking for what other installers used for the control rod going
from the servo to the control stick. Id like to use the existing rod end
bearings sent with the auto pilot, but Im not having any luck finding 6061
T6 tubing that has a thick enough wall to tap the ends so that I can screw
in the existing rod end bearings. The rod end bearings have a 6-32 thread.
What have other people done?..Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF
Olcott, NY
ebbfmm@yahoo.com
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Trio Autopilot Control Rod |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I bought some solid aluminium tubing from a local hardware store,
and drilled and tapped it. Photos here:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040910173454452
Mickey
>I m trying to install a recently purchased Trio autopilot in a flying RV6
>and Im looking for what other installers used for the control rod going
>from the servo to the control stick. Id like to use the existing rod end
>bearings sent with the auto pilot, but Im not having any luck finding 6061
>T6 tubing that has a thick enough wall to tap the ends so that I can screw
>in the existing rod end bearings. The rod end bearings have a 6-32 thread.
>What have other people done?..Thanks
>
>Fran Malczynski
>RV-6 N594EF
>Olcott, NY
>ebbfmm@yahoo.com
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Vacum Test tool |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I used a blood pressure cuff. It worked well -- proved I had leaks!!
http://bowenaero.com/copper/displayimage.php?album=12&pos=4
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
bertrv6@highstream.net said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
> What would be the best place to get one of those Gauges, to check
> vacum pressure, for the static system.
>
> I thought that harbor freight would have it, but no luck...
>
>
> I need to do this before final inspection....no?
>
>
> Thanks
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
> Do Not archive
>
>
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Is it normal for fuel to seep between the airbox mounting plate and the injector?
I always have a small pool of an oilly fuel mess on top of my airbox. If
it gets too full, it will eventually leak into the airbox and then out the drain
hole.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Test tool |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Bert,
You can find a very nice one in the tool section of your local Sears store.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
>Hi:
>
> What would be the best place to get one of those Gauges, to check
>vacum pressure, for the static system.
>
> I thought that harbor freight would have it, but no luck...
>
>
>I need to do this before final inspection....no?
>
>
>Thanks
>
>Bert
>
>rv6a
>
>Do Not archive
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: <EricHe@FlexSolPackaging.com>
Greg, I have been using the Hobby Air pro for a year now. Its the best money I've
ever spent. I live in S. Fla and the biggest benefit is its a cool suit. I
used to have a real problem with sweating in the paint. The hood keeps you nice
and cool and no sweat. There is absolutely no reason for the face mask and a
hood. I don't think you'll like it. One of the beautys of the hood is it brings
the air in the back of your head. The hose then has a belt that holds it securely
in the middle of your back. I paint holding a 150 watt shop light in one
hand so I can look into the spray pattern as it flows back together. This means
I've got a fresh air hose, and air hose and an electrical extension cord following
me around everywhere I go. I just zip tie them all together and they
then pull from the small of my back where the hood quick disconnect is. The hood
is worth it just for this reason alone. You will never drag the air hose through
fresh paint again because it is locked in over your shoulder. I love it.
The pro air unit might be overkill. It will run two hoods just fine with a y splitter
and two 40' lengths of hose. The dowside is with only one 40' hose it is
a windstorm in your hood. It really needs a low setting when used with 1 length
of 40' hose and one hood. Because of this, I always use it with the full 80'
with half of it coiled up. Still its too much air, which means your tyvex paint
suit had better be damn clean because all that extra air is exiting across
your body. Still, I can't overemphasize how great it is to be able to paint
and not have a rubber mask against your skin, just cool air.
I bought my unit from Len at Autobodystore.net. He's a great guy to do business
with and he often puts these things on sale, see if he's got one coming up. Be
sure and get a bunch of the tear away shields. I recommend when you put them
on you outline the shield with 1" masking tape so absolutely no overspray gets
in under the shield to your good acrylic hood.
Hope it helps,
Eric Henson
S. Fla
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bendix injector |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Good question, I have the same problem, so your not alone.
At 08:00 AM 12/9/2004 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>Is it normal for fuel to seep between the airbox mounting plate and the
>injector? I always have a small pool of an oilly fuel mess on top of my
>airbox. If it gets too full, it will eventually leak into the airbox and
>then out the drain hole.
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>150 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: How do you replace the tailwheel bearings? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George P. Tyler" <gptyler@metrocast.net>
On my 6 I found it easier and not very expensive to replace the wheel.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Finn Lassen" <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Subject: RV-List: How do you replace the tailwheel bearings?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>
> How do you replace the tailwheel bearings?
>
> I've searched the archives and found part numbers, but how do you get
> the darned things out to inspect/replace?
>
> Mine is an R&K, 6 X 225.
> 3/8" axle bolt.
> I assume that is the "standard" tailwheel.
>
> Finn
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP My plan is to wire my GRT EFIS to the audio input. SNIP
I have the GRT EFIS. I really like it. However, I DO NOT use the audio
warning option. There are quite enough lights and warnings without it,
IMHO.
Regardless as to whether YOU want to use it, getting the parameters set
up takes more than just a few minutes of programming and flight time. I
HIGHLY recommend that you put a switch in that audio line so you can
shut it off. If you don't, you won't hear the radio, music, or anything
else for the first 5 hours of flight time due to the EFIS false alarms.
It will be very distracting.
OTOH, you might be a bonafide programming genius with a pHD in Lycoming
parameters and sensing devices... in which case it will only take you
three hours of flight time to stomp the squawks and get the alarm
parameters set to what YOU want.
This sounds like I'm griping about the GRT product... nothing could be
farther from the truth. I like it very much.
I have a copy of the EIS and EFIS parameters I use for my SIX cylinder
Lyc. Have a look at the pages below if you have or are interested in
the GRT EFIS or EIS.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Instruments%20and%20electr
ical.htm
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/RocketEISSettings.xls
Don't forget to paste the links back together if they appear on two
lines in your email program.
Vince
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Hey Vince...
I recently added the audio warning from my EIS to my intercom, and although
it's nice to have, it can be a pain sometimes... When I rebuild my panel to
add my Blue Mountain Sport, I am going to be putting a small toggle in to
mute the audio...
-Bill
www.rv8a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP My plan is to wire my GRT EFIS to the audio input. SNIP
I have the GRT EFIS. I really like it. However, I DO NOT use the audio
warning option. There are quite enough lights and warnings without it,
IMHO.
Regardless as to whether YOU want to use it, getting the parameters set
up takes more than just a few minutes of programming and flight time. I
HIGHLY recommend that you put a switch in that audio line so you can
shut it off. If you don't, you won't hear the radio, music, or anything
else for the first 5 hours of flight time due to the EFIS false alarms.
It will be very distracting.
OTOH, you might be a bonafide programming genius with a pHD in Lycoming
parameters and sensing devices... in which case it will only take you
three hours of flight time to stomp the squawks and get the alarm
parameters set to what YOU want.
This sounds like I'm griping about the GRT product... nothing could be
farther from the truth. I like it very much.
I have a copy of the EIS and EFIS parameters I use for my SIX cylinder
Lyc. Have a look at the pages below if you have or are interested in
the GRT EFIS or EIS.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Instruments%20and%20electr
ical.htm
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/RocketEISSettings.xls
Don't forget to paste the links back together if they appear on two
lines in your email program.
Vince
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Okay, but these sites all say that this system is for fire suppression
to give the driver enough time to escape. It is not like we can just
pull over to the side of the sky and hop out. Does anyone have
experience with these type systems and can verify that they will really
put out the fire or do they do what the sites say and merely suppress
the fire for a period of time?
Interested, but skeptical...
Dick Tasker
Mitch Faatz wrote:
>Check professional car racing shops (search for AFFF)
>
>http://www.continentalmotorsport.com/onlinecatalogsafetyfiresystem.htm has
>both handheld and plumbed in systems
>
>http://www.bimmerworld.com/onlinestoreframe.html and search for AFFF
>
>http://www.spausadirect.com/product_pages/motorsportfiresystems.asp?prodID=25
>
>
>Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I can't see anything of reasonable size or weight being of much use in a
cowling for a flying airplane (due to air velocity). Am I missing something
here? Even race cars would probably have to stop moving then activate a
system to be effective. In the cockpit - now that's a different story.
Foam or Halon... take your pick. I have Halon.
2 cents
Bryan
>
> >>David,
>I'm also one who thinks having an onboard fire suppression system could be
>a
>good life saving measure.
>I did some searches on the Matronics archives (RVs) and found mostly
>deriding comments on such a system.
>Their point being, because of the very high air velocity going through the
>engine compartment; it would disperse the Halon gas before it could
>extinguish any fires.
>
>YOU DON'T WANT HALON FOR THIS REASON... what you need is AF3... Aqueous
>Film
>Forming Foam... It's what the formula one race car guys use for onboard
>fire
>supression. So much better than Halon in this usage for many reasons. I was
>probably one of the ones deriding fire suppression systems back in the
>archives... before I discovered 'A-triple-F'. I was working some with a
>friend to bring
>some of these systems to the experimental aircraft market before he
>unexpected died and the whole idea kind of dissolved in the wake of his
>death. If
>there's interest, I imagine the idea could be revived.
>
>just my .02
>
>Scott
>N4ZW
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Vacum Test tool |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Larry,
When a builder designs & installs the pitot-static system, what kind of
"pressure/leak check" fitting/valve should be provided for attaching the cut
end of the rubber hose from the blood pressure cuff's pressure gage and
squeeze-bulb pump?
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Vacum Test tool
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I used a blood pressure cuff. It worked well -- proved I had leaks!!
>
> http://bowenaero.com/copper/displayimage.php?album=12&pos=4
>
> -
> Larry Bowen
> Larry@BowenAero.com
> http://BowenAero.com
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
In my opinion if I use a fire suppression system I
would use a dry chem extinguisher.
the powder tends to stick to things.
It will make a mess but if your to the point to use it
that will be the least of your problems.
Iv Ben on the fire department for about 10 years and
the dry chem extinguisher tends to work best for
liquid fuel fires.
JMHO
Dale Mitchell
RV-8A MN Wing
--- RV_8 Pilot <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot"
> <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> I can't see anything of reasonable size or weight
> being of much use in a
> cowling for a flying airplane (due to air velocity).
> Am I missing something
> here? Even race cars would probably have to stop
> moving then activate a
> system to be effective. In the cockpit - now that's
> a different story.
> Foam or Halon... take your pick. I have Halon.
>
> 2 cents
>
> Bryan
>
> >
> > >>David,
> >I'm also one who thinks having an onboard fire
> suppression system could be
> >a
> >good life saving measure.
> >I did some searches on the Matronics archives (RVs)
> and found mostly
> >deriding comments on such a system.
> >Their point being, because of the very high air
> velocity going through the
> >engine compartment; it would disperse the Halon gas
> before it could
> >extinguish any fires.
> >
> >YOU DON'T WANT HALON FOR THIS REASON... what you
> need is AF3... Aqueous
> >Film
> >Forming Foam... It's what the formula one race car
> guys use for onboard
> >fire
> >supression. So much better than Halon in this usage
> for many reasons. I was
> >probably one of the ones deriding fire suppression
> systems back in the
> >archives... before I discovered 'A-triple-F'. I was
> working some with a
> >friend to bring
> >some of these systems to the experimental aircraft
> market before he
> >unexpected died and the whole idea kind of
> dissolved in the wake of his
> >death. If
> >there's interest, I imagine the idea could be
> revived.
> >
> >just my .02
> >
> >Scott
> >N4ZW
> >
> >
>
>
>
> Click on the
> this
> by the
> Admin.
> _->
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Vacuum Test tool |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Bert,
I missed your original post. Why can't you use your altimeter? If you get a
hypodermic syringe from a veterinarian (the small ones used by diabetics
aren't big enough), you can pull a vacuum on one of the static ports after you
tape up the other port. I was able to grind off the needle to about 1/4 inch
length, put a very small O-ring on it, and insert it into the static port. The
idea is to pull enough vacuum on the static system to raise the altimeter about
1000 ft. If it doesn't lose over 100 feet (I think it is -- experts correct
me) in one minute, you're home free. If it leaks down, you need to find the
leak and fix it. I got this idea from a Grumman AA1C manual which I just sold
along with the airplane, so I can't refer back to it.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since July -- about 80 hours)
>--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
> >
> >
> >Hi:
> >
> > What would be the best place to get one of those Gauges, to check
> >vacum pressure, for the static system.
> >
> > I thought that harbor freight would have it, but no luck...
> >
> >
> >I need to do this before final inspection....no?
> >
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Bert
> >
> >rv6a
> >
> >Do Not archive
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Bill and Vince,
Thanks for the very timely reminder for this item. I just stuck this no
my todo list.
Also a question. The GRT has a pin assignment for pull to ground for
"warning". Is this only for engine monitor functions? (Which I don't
have. I am only using EFIS functionality) Is there any warning for air
data in EFIS operation?
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
Subject: Re: RV-List: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed?
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Hey Vince...
I recently added the audio warning from my EIS to my intercom, and
although
it's nice to have, it can be a pain sometimes... When I rebuild my
panel to
add my Blue Mountain Sport, I am going to be putting a small toggle in
to
mute the audio...
-Bill
www.rv8a.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
Subject: RV-List: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Frazier, Vincent A" <VFrazier@usi.edu>
SNIP My plan is to wire my GRT EFIS to the audio input. SNIP
I have the GRT EFIS. I really like it. However, I DO NOT use the audio
warning option. There are quite enough lights and warnings without it,
IMHO.
Regardless as to whether YOU want to use it, getting the parameters set
up takes more than just a few minutes of programming and flight time. I
HIGHLY recommend that you put a switch in that audio line so you can
shut it off. If you don't, you won't hear the radio, music, or anything
else for the first 5 hours of flight time due to the EFIS false alarms.
It will be very distracting.
OTOH, you might be a bonafide programming genius with a pHD in Lycoming
parameters and sensing devices... in which case it will only take you
three hours of flight time to stomp the squawks and get the alarm
parameters set to what YOU want.
This sounds like I'm griping about the GRT product... nothing could be
farther from the truth. I like it very much.
I have a copy of the EIS and EFIS parameters I use for my SIX cylinder
Lyc. Have a look at the pages below if you have or are interested in
the GRT EFIS or EIS.
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/Instruments%20and%20electr
ical.htm
http://www.usi.edu/science/chemistry/vfrazier/RocketEISSettings.xls
Don't forget to paste the links back together if they appear on two
lines in your email program.
Vince
Message 19
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| Subject: | Aluminum polishing, recap. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Listers,
A few days ago I started a thread about polishing the aluminum skins of RVs.
I specifically requested reasons for and against it. Most responds were
unanimous about how beautiful a good polishing job looks, but warned about
the time consumed, and several warned of the blinding effect (the reflection
of light - and even worse - heat) on the pilot. One "I heard that" comment
was made as to a case of the heat actually melting a canopy!!
While on the subject, I e-mailed some Air Stream trailer folks about their
experience with polishing (Alclad aluminum). These guys (and gals) usually
start with a badly corroded 40-old project, and finish with
better-than-mirror skins. Moreover, some need to remove the clear coat that
was originally applied to the skins at the Air Stream factory. A good
polishing story may be found at the links at the bottom of this post.
I also e-mailed a gentleman that has recently completed an RV-8 and has it
partially polished and part painted. He had no problem with light
reflection, and he lives in California. It took him 4 days to polish, how
long does it take to paint?!!
The more I look into it, the more I am surprised that RV sheet metal
builders are not more proud to show their metal work. The Sonex guys seem to
enjoy showing their bird's skins much more. It might be an interesting topic
for sociological research: Are builders of more and more complete kits more
prone to just having someone professional do parts of the project FOR them
(panel, paint, aftermarket fiberglass fairings)?
Is paint vs. polish just a fashion thing, i.e. is the "retro look" of the
Temco Swift or the early airliners bound to make a comeback shortly, or not?
I am sending this post to the request of those who wanted to know what I
found out, definitely not for the naysayer, who believes a painted airplane
is more practical (if you want practical, are you sure you are in the right
hobby?!! ;)
A few Notes of interest:
The compounding chemicals from the Nuvite company (nuvitechemical.com) will
cost less than $100 for the project. And Nuvite probably has the most
expensive line of compounds. My research has shown Nuvite to be the most
popular rout, and some that have switched to it from other lines of products
(e.g. Rolite) have not switched back.
For the tools, a $50 1/2" chuck drill that turns ~ 1000RPM is recommended
for the "compounding" stage, or you could use a $25 car polisher from Harbor
Freight.
For the fine polishing, a random orbit dual head tool called the "Cyclo
model 5" is recommended. A new one is $270, but you can find them used on
e-bay for less, or you can get a new one with accessories (pads, bonnets,
etc) for a bargain $335. Both pneumatic and electrical models are out there.
Wool bonnets, buffing pads, polishing cloth etc. - for a small plane will be
around $150 if you buy plenty.
You'll need some mineral spirits for cleaning, and a few miscellaneous items
I probably am not aware of, but you can see that it will be less than $1000
easily.
As far as up-keep, the better the first polishing job is, the longer it will
last, the less work you will have at the yearly or 6-month touch up polish,
and from year to year it will be longer and longer between polishes. You
don't do the whole compounding and polishing deal, only the last stage of
fine polishing at those times. Hangaring your RV (which pretty much
everybody is doing anyway) will help a lot, as well as hand drying it after
it gets wet.
As for waxing - it is actually not recommended nor needed. Of course every
body that has ever polished anything (or hasn't!) has an opinion (or more
than one) on one or more of the subjects I touched on.
Links of interest:
http://www.irinfo.com/polish/html/polish.html
http://www.russellw.com/planes/ryan/polishing.htm
http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Polish/Compounding.html
http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Polish/Nuvite.html
http://www.nuvitechemical.com/Prod%20Pages/Aircraft%20Page.htm
http://www.perfectpolish.com/AirstreamProject.htm
http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/complete.htm
http://www.perfectpolish.com/Quick%20Guide.htm
One tip you wont find in these links the ambient temperature needs to be
above 65F for the polisher to do its thing. I suppose humidity will also be
important, this should be covered in the material instructions.
So, am I going to polish my -7?
At this point I am undecided, but you can guess what I think about it. You
can always go and paint a polished skin, just etch it and paint. Polishing a
painted surface involves stripping the paint, but that too can be done.
And finally, for the sake of educating the masses, from the owner of a
polished airplane:
Maybe the biggest problem with a polished AC is that everyone who sees
it wants to touch it, then they make a scratch by rubbing their hands over
it and continue to "FIX" the scratches by taking their shirt sleeve and make
matters worse.
So, the next time you see a polished skin, PLEASE don't give in to the urge
of touching it!
Happy holidays,
Amit.
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Vacum Test tool |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I just slid one hose into the other. It provided a good enough fit for
testing purposes. Nothing fancy.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
David Carter said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> Larry,
>
> When a builder designs & installs the pitot-static system, what kind of
> "pressure/leak check" fitting/valve should be provided for attaching the
> cut
> end of the rubber hose from the blood pressure cuff's pressure gage and
> squeeze-bulb pump?
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Vacum Test tool
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>>
>> I used a blood pressure cuff. It worked well -- proved I had leaks!!
>>
>> http://bowenaero.com/copper/displayimage.php?album=12&pos=4
>>
>> -
>> Larry Bowen
>> Larry@BowenAero.com
>> http://BowenAero.com
>>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Another T-34 lost. From AVflash |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
SECOND AIR ACES PLANE LOST
A Texas air-combat simulation and upset-recovery training center has
temporarily suspended operations after losing a second aircraft in just over
a year to an apparent wing separation. The Texas Air Aces T-34 went down
Tuesday about three miles from where a similar aircraft crashed on Nov. 19,
2003. In both crashes, the two people aboard the aircraft were killed. And
in both tragedies, witnesses reported seeing one of the wings snap off
before the aircraft spiraled into the ground near Lake Conroe.
...THIRD IN FIVE YEARS
A similar crash in Georgia in 1999 prompted an Airworthiness Directive (AD)
requiring thorough periodic inspections of the wing spars on T-34s. After
the AD was issued, several alternative methods of compliance (AMOCs) were
approved. After the 2003 crash, the FAA's preliminary report suggested that
the aircraft wasn't in compliance with the AD, but FAA preliminary reports
can be wrong. The FAA report on Tuesday's crash incorrectly identified the
aircraft as a Beechjet (hopefully this has since been corrected) and also
says only the pilot was on board. Texas Air Aces spokesman Dave Hollaway
told the Houston Chronicle he didn't know if the aircraft was in compliance
with the AD.
do not archive
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | polishing aluminum - addendum. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
One more link, and a few pictures:
I added a few pictures of polished aluminum aircraft to the Yahoo RV7/7a
group
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV7and7A/ click on Photo Albums > Polished
Aluminum.
And, I forgot to mention this link for polishing aluminum reference:
http://www.aircraftpolish.com/
Amit.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Bill,
When is it a pain? I'm not flying with my EIS yet, so I
have not heard any of their warnings.
Thanks,
Mickey
>I recently added the audio warning from my EIS to my intercom, and although
>it's nice to have, it can be a pain sometimes... When I rebuild my panel to
>add my Blue Mountain Sport, I am going to be putting a small toggle in to
>mute the audio...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Fire Suppression System-items from my personal |
archive
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch> archive
Hi Dale,
Won't the powder totally block your view when flying?
Mickey
>In my opinion if I use a fire suppression system I
>would use a dry chem extinguisher.
>the powder tends to stick to things.
>It will make a mess but if your to the point to use it
>that will be the least of your problems.
>Iv Ben on the fire department for about 10 years and
>the dry chem extinguisher tends to work best for
>liquid fuel fires.
>JMHO
>Dale Mitchell
>RV-8A MN Wing
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing, recap. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Trust me when I say your making it sound easier than it is. You are not
mentioning what level of finish you are striving for, a quick polish, or a
real polish job. I have some friends who had their 7 professionally
polished, it took way longer than 4 days, and cost, $4500.00. This process
is not a one step process, there are multiple steps which means you will
end up polishing the entire plane 3 maybe 4 times to get it to really look
good. You will also be removing the pure aluminium coating, which keeps the
base aluminium, from corroding.
At 06:15 PM 12/9/2004 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>A few days ago I started a thread about polishing the aluminum skins of RVs.
>I specifically requested reasons for and against it. Most responds were
>unanimous about how beautiful a good polishing job looks, but warned about
>the time consumed, and several warned of the blinding effect (the reflection
>of light - and even worse - heat) on the pilot. One "I heard that" comment
>was made as to a case of the heat actually melting a canopy!!
>
>While on the subject, I e-mailed some Air Stream trailer folks about their
>experience with polishing (Alclad aluminum). These guys (and gals) usually
>start with a badly corroded 40-old project, and finish with
>better-than-mirror skins. Moreover, some need to remove the clear coat that
>was originally applied to the skins at the Air Stream factory. A good
>polishing story may be found at the links at the bottom of this post.
>
>I also e-mailed a gentleman that has recently completed an RV-8 and has it
>partially polished and part painted. He had no problem with light
>reflection, and he lives in California. It took him 4 days to polish, how
>long does it take to paint?!!
>
>The more I look into it, the more I am surprised that RV sheet metal
>builders are not more proud to show their metal work. The Sonex guys seem to
>enjoy showing their bird's skins much more. It might be an interesting topic
>for sociological research: Are builders of more and more complete kits more
>prone to just having someone professional do parts of the project FOR them
>(panel, paint, aftermarket fiberglass fairings)?
>Is paint vs. polish just a fashion thing, i.e. is the "retro look" of the
>Temco Swift or the early airliners bound to make a comeback shortly, or not?
>
>I am sending this post to the request of those who wanted to know what I
>found out, definitely not for the naysayer, who believes a painted airplane
>is more practical (if you want practical, are you sure you are in the right
>hobby?!! ;)
>
>A few Notes of interest:
>The compounding chemicals from the Nuvite company (nuvitechemical.com) will
>cost less than $100 for the project. And Nuvite probably has the most
>expensive line of compounds. My research has shown Nuvite to be the most
>popular rout, and some that have switched to it from other lines of products
>(e.g. Rolite) have not switched back.
>
>For the tools, a $50 1/2" chuck drill that turns ~ 1000RPM is recommended
>for the "compounding" stage, or you could use a $25 car polisher from Harbor
>Freight.
>For the fine polishing, a random orbit dual head tool called the "Cyclo
>model 5" is recommended. A new one is $270, but you can find them used on
>e-bay for less, or you can get a new one with accessories (pads, bonnets,
>etc) for a bargain $335. Both pneumatic and electrical models are out there.
>
>Wool bonnets, buffing pads, polishing cloth etc. - for a small plane will be
>around $150 if you buy plenty.
>
>You'll need some mineral spirits for cleaning, and a few miscellaneous items
>I probably am not aware of, but you can see that it will be less than $1000
>easily.
>
>As far as up-keep, the better the first polishing job is, the longer it will
>last, the less work you will have at the yearly or 6-month touch up polish,
>and from year to year it will be longer and longer between polishes. You
>don't do the whole compounding and polishing deal, only the last stage of
>fine polishing at those times. Hangaring your RV (which pretty much
>everybody is doing anyway) will help a lot, as well as hand drying it after
>it gets wet.
>
>As for waxing - it is actually not recommended nor needed. Of course every
>body that has ever polished anything (or hasn't!) has an opinion (or more
>than one) on one or more of the subjects I touched on.
>
>Links of interest:
>http://www.irinfo.com/polish/html/polish.html
>http://www.russellw.com/planes/ryan/polishing.htm
>http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Polish/Compounding.html
>http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Polish/Nuvite.html
>http://www.nuvitechemical.com/Prod%20Pages/Aircraft%20Page.htm
>http://www.perfectpolish.com/AirstreamProject.htm
>http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/complete.htm
>http://www.perfectpolish.com/Quick%20Guide.htm
>
>One tip you wont find in these links the ambient temperature needs to be
>above 65F for the polisher to do its thing. I suppose humidity will also be
>important, this should be covered in the material instructions.
>
>So, am I going to polish my -7?
>At this point I am undecided, but you can guess what I think about it. You
>can always go and paint a polished skin, just etch it and paint. Polishing a
>painted surface involves stripping the paint, but that too can be done.
>
>And finally, for the sake of educating the masses, from the owner of a
>polished airplane:
>Maybe the biggest problem with a polished AC is that everyone who sees
>it wants to touch it, then they make a scratch by rubbing their hands over
>it and continue to "FIX" the scratches by taking their shirt sleeve and make
>matters worse.
>
>So, the next time you see a polished skin, PLEASE don't give in to the urge
>of touching it!
>
>Happy holidays,
>Amit.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 26
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| Subject: | Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
Quite possible but I think it would be for only about
15 to 30 seconds.
I'm only thinking about using it in the engine
compartment.
Dale
--- Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>,
UNEXPECTED_DATA_AFTER_ADDRESS@.SYNTAX-ERROR. wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
> <mick-matronics@rv8.ch> archive
>
> Hi Dale,
>
> Won't the powder totally block your view when
> flying?
>
> Mickey
>
> >In my opinion if I use a fire suppression system I
> >would use a dry chem extinguisher.
> >the powder tends to stick to things.
> >It will make a mess but if your to the point to use
> it
> >that will be the least of your problems.
> >Iv Ben on the fire department for about 10 years
> and
> >the dry chem extinguisher tends to work best for
> >liquid fuel fires.
> >JMHO
> >Dale Mitchell
> >RV-8A MN Wing
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Send a seasonal email greeting and help others. Do good.
http://celebrity.mail.yahoo.com
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Dale Mitchell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
>
>In my opinion if I use a fire suppression system I
>would use a dry chem extinguisher.
>the powder tends to stick to things.
>It will make a mess but if your to the point to use it
>that will be the least of your problems.
>Iv Ben on the fire department for about 10 years and
>the dry chem extinguisher tends to work best for
>liquid fuel fires.
>JMHO
>Dale Mitchell
>RV-8A MN Wing
>
HOWEVER, the dry chem is very corrosive to aluminum ...... and it will
find it's way into every nook and cranny. It's Hobson's choice .....
let it burn (and collect the insurance) or let it corrode apart over
time (and get no insurance). Dry chem isn't good for your lungs so if
you have a cockpit fire ......
As for an engine compartment fire ..... I think Halon may be able to
kill the fire enough to get it under the flash point of burnables. I
don't think it would have to last too long ..... but then I'm no fire
expert nor play one on TV. Maybe if I go spend the night in a Holiday
Inn????
If I have anything wrong here ..... I hope Dale will offer better data.
Linn
do not archive
>
>--- RV_8 Pilot <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot"
>><rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>>
>>I can't see anything of reasonable size or weight
>>being of much use in a
>>cowling for a flying airplane (due to air velocity).
>> Am I missing something
>>here? Even race cars would probably have to stop
>>moving then activate a
>>system to be effective. In the cockpit - now that's
>>a different story.
>>Foam or Halon... take your pick. I have Halon.
>>
>>2 cents
>>
>>Bryan
>>
>>
>>
>>>>>David,
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>I'm also one who thinks having an onboard fire
>>>
>>>
>>suppression system could be
>>
>>
>>>a
>>>good life saving measure.
>>>I did some searches on the Matronics archives (RVs)
>>>
>>>
>>and found mostly
>>
>>
>>>deriding comments on such a system.
>>>Their point being, because of the very high air
>>>
>>>
>>velocity going through the
>>
>>
>>>engine compartment; it would disperse the Halon gas
>>>
>>>
>>before it could
>>
>>
>>>extinguish any fires.
>>>
>>>YOU DON'T WANT HALON FOR THIS REASON... what you
>>>
>>>
>>need is AF3... Aqueous
>>
>>
>>>Film
>>>Forming Foam... It's what the formula one race car
>>>
>>>
>>guys use for onboard
>>
>>
>>>fire
>>>supression. So much better than Halon in this usage
>>>
>>>
>>for many reasons. I was
>>
>>
>>>probably one of the ones deriding fire suppression
>>>
>>>
>>systems back in the
>>
>>
>>>archives... before I discovered 'A-triple-F'. I was
>>>
>>>
>>working some with a
>>
>>
>>>friend to bring
>>>some of these systems to the experimental aircraft
>>>
>>>
>>market before he
>>
>>
>>>unexpected died and the whole idea kind of
>>>
>>>
>>dissolved in the wake of his
>>
>>
>>>death. If
>>>there's interest, I imagine the idea could be
>>>
>>>
>>revived.
>>
>>
>>>just my .02
>>>
>>>Scott
>>>N4ZW
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>Click on the
>>this
>>by the
>>Admin.
>>_->
>>Contributions
>>any other
>>Forums.
>>
>>http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>>http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>>http://www.matronics.com/archives
>>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | polishing aluminum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Maybe it wasn't clear from my earlier post, so let me put it clearly:
I am no expert on the subject, just doing research.
I asked for expert input, and got it on the websites I quoted.
Ofcourse you can have a professional polish your plane. $4,500 is still
cheaper (not by much) than the prices I hear from people who have had their
airplane PAINTED by a professional. Will it take more than 4 days? Why did
the RV-8 builder make it in 4?
In fact I *did* mention there are more than one step, compounding and
polishing.
And if I made it sound easier than it is, well, sorry- that was not the
intention, but how do YOU know? Did you polish an airplane? If so, I would
be very interested if you could share some technical details, or at least
let us know who the professionals that did the polishing on your friends 7
were. That would actually be beneficial for the readers.
As far as your comment about "removing the pure aluminum" (alclad), that is
not entirely correct. Read the link from the Perfect Polish
<http://www.perfectpolish.com/> website:
"Will repeated polishing remove the Alcad coating? Not according to Boeing.
As a quality control measure Boeing polishes all of their exterior skin
sections after forming using robotic polishers and Nuvite F-7. Apparently
defects in the skin are easier to spot when polished. They once polished a
section 370 times and the surface cladding (Alcad) was still there. Boeing
says that polishing does not remove metal, it just 'turns it over'. Of
course if the surface is badly corroded or has been sanded, the Alcad will
be gone. But it will polish up nicely anyway."
There is a big difference between corrosion and oxidation. Aluminum oxide
actually protects the aluminum underneath it from corroding. Unlike iron
that just "rusts way", aluminum forms an oxidized layer on the surface that
protects the inside. That is what the Alclad is there for.
So, before you scare everyone from polishing their RV, I suggest you check
your opinions against the facts. Not meaning to sound harsh here, or to
start any list-mud-throwing, just advising caution, specificaly from
individuals who start their words with "Trust me when I say..." only to
follow with OPINIONS.
Not that there is anything wrong with opinions, but they should be presented
as such, not as facts.
Opinion:
n.
A belief or conclusion held with confidence but not substantiated by
positive knowledge or proof.
Again Scott, this is not meant to offend you in anyway. I hope you
understand that.
Happy holidays,
Amit, a strong believer in personal opinions, but searching for the facts.
----
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Trust me when I say your making it sound easier than it is. You are not
mentioning what level of finish you are striving for, a quick polish, or a
real polish job. I have some friends who had their 7 professionally
polished, it took way longer than 4 days, and cost, $4500.00. This process
is not a one step process, there are multiple steps which means you will
end up polishing the entire plane 3 maybe 4 times to get it to really look
good. You will also be removing the pure aluminium coating, which keeps the
base aluminium, from corroding.
http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
Message 29
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DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=VewemDUv6gz0EwBgyS8T+E1e05s2/T2AePPVsjDJJGwW9I50t1PPLQpWXpolOsoMPzKC0FHfkUgCHiNbjeAA4Yd5n1CITgwE+Kq1F+PnnIs7FpmrXxNvlq8M26mUkEtbvZ8mtIkZeUZspU+NEKK0oAUO4opKETk7QLqz7OeBCz4=
;
| Subject: | Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
I'm am no expert butt your right about the
corrosiveness of a chem extinguisher.
My thought is if you have a fire you will be lucky to
save your life.
IMHO
Dale
--- linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters
> <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Dale Mitchell wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell
> <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
> >
> >In my opinion if I use a fire suppression system I
> >would use a dry chem extinguisher.
> >the powder tends to stick to things.
> >It will make a mess but if your to the point to use
> it
> >that will be the least of your problems.
> >Iv Ben on the fire department for about 10 years
> and
> >the dry chem extinguisher tends to work best for
> >liquid fuel fires.
> >JMHO
> >Dale Mitchell
> >RV-8A MN Wing
> >
> HOWEVER, the dry chem is very corrosive to aluminum
> ...... and it will
> find it's way into every nook and cranny. It's
> Hobson's choice .....
> let it burn (and collect the insurance) or let it
> corrode apart over
> time (and get no insurance). Dry chem isn't good
> for your lungs so if
> you have a cockpit fire ......
> As for an engine compartment fire ..... I think
> Halon may be able to
> kill the fire enough to get it under the flash point
> of burnables. I
> don't think it would have to last too long ..... but
> then I'm no fire
> expert nor play one on TV. Maybe if I go spend the
> night in a Holiday
> Inn????
> If I have anything wrong here ..... I hope Dale will
> offer better data.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> >
> >--- RV_8 Pilot <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot"
> >><rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
> >>
> >>I can't see anything of reasonable size or weight
> >>being of much use in a
> >>cowling for a flying airplane (due to air
> velocity).
> >> Am I missing something
> >>here? Even race cars would probably have to stop
> >>moving then activate a
> >>system to be effective. In the cockpit - now
> that's
> >>a different story.
> >>Foam or Halon... take your pick. I have Halon.
> >>
> >>2 cents
> >>
> >>Bryan
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>>>David,
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>I'm also one who thinks having an onboard fire
> >>>
> >>>
> >>suppression system could be
> >>
> >>
> >>>a
> >>>good life saving measure.
> >>>I did some searches on the Matronics archives
> (RVs)
> >>>
> >>>
> >>and found mostly
> >>
> >>
> >>>deriding comments on such a system.
> >>>Their point being, because of the very high air
> >>>
> >>>
> >>velocity going through the
> >>
> >>
> >>>engine compartment; it would disperse the Halon
> gas
> >>>
> >>>
> >>before it could
> >>
> >>
> >>>extinguish any fires.
> >>>
> >>>YOU DON'T WANT HALON FOR THIS REASON... what you
> >>>
> >>>
> >>need is AF3... Aqueous
> >>
> >>
> >>>Film
> >>>Forming Foam... It's what the formula one race
> car
> >>>
> >>>
> >>guys use for onboard
> >>
> >>
> >>>fire
> >>>supression. So much better than Halon in this
> usage
> >>>
> >>>
> >>for many reasons. I was
> >>
> >>
> >>>probably one of the ones deriding fire
> suppression
> >>>
> >>>
> >>systems back in the
> >>
> >>
> >>>archives... before I discovered 'A-triple-F'. I
> was
> >>>
> >>>
> >>working some with a
> >>
> >>
> >>>friend to bring
> >>>some of these systems to the experimental
> aircraft
> >>>
> >>>
> >>market before he
> >>
> >>
> >>>unexpected died and the whole idea kind of
> >>>
> >>>
> >>dissolved in the wake of his
> >>
> >>
> >>>death. If
> >>>there's interest, I imagine the idea could be
> >>>
> >>>
> >>revived.
> >>
> >>
> >>>just my .02
> >>>
> >>>Scott
> >>>N4ZW
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> >>Click on the
> >>this
> >>by the
> >>Admin.
> >>_->
> >>Contributions
> >>any other
> >>Forums.
> >>
> >>http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> >>http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> >>http://www.matronics.com/archives
> >>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> >>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
> >__________________________________
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
If I'm doing anything that make the RPM exceed limits, like acro, it just
drives me nuts...
Also, if when I first start I wanted to just warm up the engine until it was
within parameters I could just let the light blink instead of nack'ing all
the alarms, and when alls in the green the light would just go off... I
would go postal if I had to listed to the alarm all that time!
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: GRT EFIS.... is the audio warning needed?
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Bill,
When is it a pain? I'm not flying with my EIS yet, so I
have not heard any of their warnings.
Thanks,
Mickey
>I recently added the audio warning from my EIS to my intercom, and although
>it's nice to have, it can be a pain sometimes... When I rebuild my panel
>to
>add my Blue Mountain Sport, I am going to be putting a small toggle in to
>mute the audio...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Vacum Test tool |
--> RV-List message posted by: CW Crane <cwcrane@gbronline.com>
David,
A good method for getting small amounts of pressure (or vacuum) is to use a
water column. You can also use it as a vacuum or pressure gauge. One
atmosphere is about 14.7 psi or 30 feet of water. Make a "U" out of a piece of
1/4" vinyl tubing and put some water in the bottom. Connect one end to the
static system and lower the other end. Look at your altimeter while you do this
and get some height above local (1000 ft or so). Tape the open end to something
and leave it alone for a while. If the altimeter still reads the same when you
come back, the static system does not leak.
You can check the pitot system by connecting one end to the pitot tube and raise
the open end while watching the ASI. The ASI should read 100 mph with 4.96" of
water differential.
I thought Kevin Horton's site had the procedures for calibrating the ASI and
checking the static system but it was many moons ago when I last saw it. If you
are interested and don't find it elsewhere, I can post what I have.
CW Crane
On Thu, 9 Dec 2004 11:37:18 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
>Larry,
>
>When a builder designs & installs the pitot-static system, what kind of
>"pressure/leak check" fitting/valve should be provided for attaching the cut
>end of the rubber hose from the blood pressure cuff's pressure gage and
>squeeze-bulb pump?
>
>David
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Dale Mitchell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
>
>I'm am no expert butt your right about the
>corrosiveness of a chem extinguisher.
>My thought is if you have a fire you will be lucky to
>save your life.
>IMHO
>Dale
>
That point is well taken. AOPA had an article in November ..... and
inflight fires are not that common. They found 82 in-flight fire
related accidents over 3 years. In 20, the crew was incapacitated
before the airplane hit the ground. 14 were caused by electrical
problems .... and 61 were engine related fires. Of the engine fires,
oil starvation was #1, exhaust manifold failures were #2 and turbo fires
#3. Their overriding theme was to get the airplane down ASAP (well,
duh!)I think most fires occur during the startup phase when an engine
can be over-primed. So, for me, the fire danger isn't enough to haul
around a large bottle to flood the engine compartment (or the cabin)
'just in case'. So far I have over 2000 hours of purely personal fun
flying without a fire. Where's that extinguisher .... I may be due!!! :-P
Linn
do not archive
>
>--- linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters
>><lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>>
>>Dale Mitchell wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell
>>>
>>>
>><dfm4290@yahoo.com>
>>
>>
>>>In my opinion if I use a fire suppression system I
>>>would use a dry chem extinguisher.
>>>the powder tends to stick to things.
>>>It will make a mess but if your to the point to use
>>>
>>>
>>it
>>
>>
>>>that will be the least of your problems.
>>>Iv Ben on the fire department for about 10 years
>>>
>>>
>>and
>>
>>
>>>the dry chem extinguisher tends to work best for
>>>liquid fuel fires.
>>>JMHO
>>>Dale Mitchell
>>>RV-8A MN Wing
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>HOWEVER, the dry chem is very corrosive to aluminum
>>...... and it will
>>find it's way into every nook and cranny. It's
>>Hobson's choice .....
>>let it burn (and collect the insurance) or let it
>>corrode apart over
>>time (and get no insurance). Dry chem isn't good
>>for your lungs so if
>>you have a cockpit fire ......
>>As for an engine compartment fire ..... I think
>>Halon may be able to
>>kill the fire enough to get it under the flash point
>>of burnables. I
>>don't think it would have to last too long ..... but
>>then I'm no fire
>>expert nor play one on TV. Maybe if I go spend the
>>night in a Holiday
>>Inn????
>>If I have anything wrong here ..... I hope Dale will
>>offer better data.
>>Linn
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>>--- RV_8 Pilot <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot"
>>>><rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>>>>
>>>>I can't see anything of reasonable size or weight
>>>>being of much use in a
>>>>cowling for a flying airplane (due to air
>>>>
>>>>
>>velocity).
>>
>>
>>>>Am I missing something
>>>>here? Even race cars would probably have to stop
>>>>moving then activate a
>>>>system to be effective. In the cockpit - now
>>>>
>>>>
>>that's
>>
>>
>>>>a different story.
>>>>Foam or Halon... take your pick. I have Halon.
>>>>
>>>>2 cents
>>>>
>>>>Bryan
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>>>David,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>I'm also one who thinks having an onboard fire
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>suppression system could be
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>a
>>>>>good life saving measure.
>>>>>I did some searches on the Matronics archives
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>(RVs)
>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>and found mostly
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>deriding comments on such a system.
>>>>>Their point being, because of the very high air
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>velocity going through the
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>engine compartment; it would disperse the Halon
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>gas
>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>before it could
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>extinguish any fires.
>>>>>
>>>>>YOU DON'T WANT HALON FOR THIS REASON... what you
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>need is AF3... Aqueous
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>Film
>>>>>Forming Foam... It's what the formula one race
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>car
>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>guys use for onboard
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>fire
>>>>>supression. So much better than Halon in this
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>usage
>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>for many reasons. I was
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>probably one of the ones deriding fire
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>suppression
>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>systems back in the
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>archives... before I discovered 'A-triple-F'. I
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>was
>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>working some with a
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>friend to bring
>>>>>some of these systems to the experimental
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>aircraft
>>
>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>market before he
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>unexpected died and the whole idea kind of
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>dissolved in the wake of his
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>death. If
>>>>>there's interest, I imagine the idea could be
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>revived.
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>just my .02
>>>>>
>>>>>Scott
>>>>>N4ZW
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>Click on the
>>>>this
>>>>by the
>>>>Admin.
>>>>_->
>>>>Contributions
>>>>any other
>>>>Forums.
>>>>
>>>>http://www.matronics.com/subscription
>>>>http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>>>>http://www.matronics.com/archives
>>>>http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>>>>http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>__________________________________
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>=== message truncated ===
>
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>So, for me, the fire danger isn't enough to haul
>around a large bottle to flood the engine compartment (or the cabin)
>'just in case'. So far I have over 2000 hours of purely personal fun
>flying without a fire. Where's that extinguisher .... I may be due!!! :-P
Good point - if the (engine comp) fire risk is that big of a concern - buy
two parachutes! A much more reliable means of solving the 'big fire'
problem and surviving, IMO.
But I still think a small bottle (~2-lb) is worthwhile in the event of a
small cockpit fire, say under the fuel selector or boost pump. Would hate
to bail on only a 2nd degree burn event! ;) ;)
Bryan
do not archive
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | polishing aluminum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Amit Dagan
Subject: RV-List: polishing aluminum
"Will repeated polishing remove the Alcad coating? Not according to
Boeing.
As a quality control measure Boeing polishes all of their exterior skin
sections after forming using robotic polishers and Nuvite F-7.
Apparently
defects in the skin are easier to spot when polished. They once polished
a
section 370 times and the surface cladding (Alcad) was still there.
Boeing
says that polishing does not remove metal, it just 'turns it over'. Of
course if the surface is badly corroded or has been sanded, the Alcad
will
be gone. But it will polish up nicely anyway."
Amit: I find the above paragraph interesting and it tends to support my
observations of the process. There are several things to think about
when considering polishing/painting. I'll ramble through some that come
to mind in no particular order.
I need about 40 hours/year to polish my RV-4 if I only do it once.
After new metal has been polished several times it becomes smoother and
easier to polish.
Nuvite seems to bring up the color the best.
Less polish is better than more polish. Of course you can use too
little and earn a poor finish.
The more aggressive Nuvite compound helps with tough spots.
Aircraft in maritime climates or humid regions that have wide
temperature swings (winter to summer) are very difficult to maintain
because of water spotting from condensation.
Water spots allowed to stand will leave a spot with a ring around it
that will not readily come off with finishing polish.
The underside of a polished RV takes a terrible beating. Worst in the
center section and flaps.
Wool polishing muffs are too aggressive for me. The result is a sort of
"dazzle" finish. Maybe good for first pass.
I have a Cyclo and have stopped using it. If anyone wants it, I'll sell
it.
Cotton terry fabric (loop side) works better for me than cotton
sweatshirt material.
Synthetic content (even 5%) in the fabric causes trouble, pilling of the
fabric and residual marks on the metal.
I am currently using a 25$ 10" orbital from Lowe's.
I will use up my supply of sweatshirt material and then go back to
cotton terry, preferably new although nearly new is ok.
A well polished aircraft is beautiful.
People cannot keep their hands off it.
Will I polish another? No.
In Michigan I coat the entire airplane with LPS 3 for the late
winter/spring months. Takes a couple of hours.
After the hangar,floor,airframe are warm it takes several hours to
remove the LPS 3. And a lot of towels.
Vinegar based window cleaner is good for removing bugs, dirt etc. Needs
clean towels.
Bugs with blood in them should be cleaned off promptly. So should the
others.
Should you (or anyone) polish? I don't know.
Polished aircraft are beautiful.
They are higher maintenance than painted, although painted aircraft
should probably have routine care that is about the same.
Will I polish another? No, but I will be unhappy if I cannot come up
with a paint scheme that truly pleases me.
Polishing the underside is a real pain.
If you really like the looks of a polished airplane, go for it.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Trio Autopilot Control Rod |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I had some carbon fiber pushrods laying around from my 'big' RC modelling days
and used one of them.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>
> Hi,
>
> I bought some solid aluminium tubing from a local hardware store,
> and drilled and tapped it. Photos here:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040910173454452
>
> Mickey
>
>
> >I m trying to install a recently purchased Trio autopilot in a flying RV6
> >and Im looking for what other installers used for the control rod going
> >from the servo to the control stick. Id like to use the existing rod end
> >bearings sent with the auto pilot, but Im not having any luck finding 6061
> >T6 tubing that has a thick enough wall to tap the ends so that I can screw
> >in the existing rod end bearings. The rod end bearings have a 6-32 thread.
> >What have other people done?..Thanks
> >
> >Fran Malczynski
> >RV-6 N594EF
> >Olcott, NY
> >ebbfmm@yahoo.com
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
>
>
>
>
I had some carbon fiber pushrods laying around from my 'big' RC modelling days
and used one of them.
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <MICK-MATRONICS@RV8.CH>
Hi,
I bought some solid aluminium tubing from a local hardware store,
and drilled and tapped it. Photos here:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040910173454452
Mickey
I m trying to install a recently purchased Trio autopilot in a flying RV6
and Im looking for what other installers used for the control rod going
from the servo to the control stick. Id like to use the existing rod end
bearings sent with the auto pilot, but Im not having any luck finding 6061
T6 tubing that has a thick enough wall to tap the ends so that I can screw
in the existing rod end bearings. The rod end bearing
s have a 6-32 thread.
What have other people done?..Thanks
Fran Malczynski
RV-6 N594EF
Olcott, NY
ebbfmm@yahoo.com
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
alle, List Admin.
Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
Message 36
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<rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: polishing aluminum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion@att.net>
Amit: I agree that you should polish your airplane for several reasons:
1. Historical accuracy. The Army AirForce quit painting their P-51s once
they achieved air superiority over Europe. They didn't polish them and
they weren't expected to last more than a few months in combat, but they
looked cool clad only in alclad. So would your RV-7 which has an empennage
profile intended to look like a P-51. My dad flew unpainted P-51s in the SC
national guard. I have a picture somewhere of about thirty of them lined up
on the ramp.
2. Experimental factor. You won't know what it takes and what it is like
unless you try it. It will be more trouble to polish later if you have to
remove a paint job first. You can always paint it later if you get tired of
maintaining the polish or want to experience the painting experience.
3. It will look good. Three of the best looking RV-4's ever were Dave
Ander's, Gordon Comfort's, and Paul Good's. Dave and Gordon's were totally
polished, and Paul's was partially polished and copied a P-51 warbird paint
scheme. You may have seen Paul's at one of the Chapter 105 breakfasts. I
think Dave painted his after he added the turtle deck, but I'm not sure
about that. I've seen your metal workmanship, and it is worthy of a polish
job. Don't forget to polish the forward side of your prop (if you don't
mind voiding the warranty.)
4. Improved performance. It will be substantially lighter unpainted, so it
will climb better. Dave Anders set some sort of record with his. Some
people claim painting them reduces drag and will increase cruise
performance, though.
5. Will keep you out of trouble and save on vacation expense. Dave Anders
once told me he and his dad polished his RV-4 twice a year. It took them 30
hours to polish and 8 hours to clean. You and Gail will have your vacation
plans taken care of until you paint the plane.
6. Initial cost savings. Have you priced car paint lately? Wow! It will
cost you over a grand for the paint and supplies even if you do it yourself.
7. Caveat. Be sure there are no concave polished surfaces under your
canopy. An RV-4 pilot damaged his canopy when he left it open over a
polished and curved wing root fairing on a sunny day. If you neither paint
nor polish, your skins will either corrode or look like they are corroding.
I can refer you to some local unpolished and unpainted RV-4s if you want to
form an opinion whether it is oxidation or corrosion you are seeing.
If you do polish it, check out Superior Signs in Tigard for your decals. I
may still have my metal gear leg fairing skins if you want polished metal
ones.
Rion
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: polishing aluminum
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>
> Maybe it wasn't clear from my earlier post, so let me put it clearly:
>
> I am no expert on the subject, just doing research.
>
> I asked for expert input, and got it on the websites I quoted.
>
> Ofcourse you can have a professional polish your plane. $4,500 is still
> cheaper (not by much) than the prices I hear from people who have had
> their
> airplane PAINTED by a professional. Will it take more than 4 days? Why did
> the RV-8 builder make it in 4?
>
> In fact I *did* mention there are more than one step, compounding and
> polishing.
>
> And if I made it sound easier than it is, well, sorry- that was not the
> intention, but how do YOU know? Did you polish an airplane? If so, I would
> be very interested if you could share some technical details, or at least
> let us know who the professionals that did the polishing on your friends 7
> were. That would actually be beneficial for the readers.
>
> As far as your comment about "removing the pure aluminum" (alclad), that
> is
> not entirely correct. Read the link from the Perfect Polish
> <http://www.perfectpolish.com/> website:
>
> "Will repeated polishing remove the Alcad coating? Not according to
> Boeing.
> As a quality control measure Boeing polishes all of their exterior skin
> sections after forming using robotic polishers and Nuvite F-7. Apparently
> defects in the skin are easier to spot when polished. They once polished a
> section 370 times and the surface cladding (Alcad) was still there. Boeing
> says that polishing does not remove metal, it just 'turns it over'. Of
> course if the surface is badly corroded or has been sanded, the Alcad will
> be gone. But it will polish up nicely anyway."
>
> There is a big difference between corrosion and oxidation. Aluminum oxide
> actually protects the aluminum underneath it from corroding. Unlike iron
> that just "rusts way", aluminum forms an oxidized layer on the surface
> that
> protects the inside. That is what the Alclad is there for.
>
> So, before you scare everyone from polishing their RV, I suggest you check
> your opinions against the facts. Not meaning to sound harsh here, or to
> start any list-mud-throwing, just advising caution, specificaly from
> individuals who start their words with "Trust me when I say..." only to
> follow with OPINIONS.
>
> Not that there is anything wrong with opinions, but they should be
> presented
> as such, not as facts.
>
> Opinion:
> n.
> A belief or conclusion held with confidence but not substantiated by
> positive knowledge or proof.
>
> Again Scott, this is not meant to offend you in anyway. I hope you
> understand that.
>
> Happy holidays,
> Amit, a strong believer in personal opinions, but searching for the facts.
>
>
> ----
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Trust me when I say your making it sound easier than it is. You are not
> mentioning what level of finish you are striving for, a quick polish, or a
> real polish job. I have some friends who had their 7 professionally
> polished, it took way longer than 4 days, and cost, $4500.00. This process
> is not a one step process, there are multiple steps which means you will
> end up polishing the entire plane 3 maybe 4 times to get it to really look
> good. You will also be removing the pure aluminium coating, which keeps
> the
> base aluminium, from corroding.
>
> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>
>
>
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <kathleen@rv7.us>
I looked at it, but I'm using a shop vacuum with a rheostat to reduce the
output. It's cleaned up with a clean filter (of course) and I purchased a
fresh air hood with full-face front and air port in back. Total cost was
around $35 not including the piece of garden hose I used for the hookup. It
works fine and is about equivalent to the Hobby Air in flow.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Greg@itmack
Subject: RV-List: Hobbyair Pro
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Anyone using the Hobbyair Pro that can give comments.
Thanks
Greg
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: polishing aluminum |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
I wonder?
Is a polished Alclad aircraft any easier or harder to find in flight than a
painted one. Or for that matter after an unfortunate incident. Do any search
and rescue people out there care to share their experiance.
Jim in Kelowna
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion@att.net>
<rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: polishing aluminum
> --> RV-List message posted by: "J. Rion Bourgeois" <rion@att.net>
>
> Amit: I agree that you should polish your airplane for several reasons:
>
> 1. Historical accuracy. The Army AirForce quit painting their P-51s
> once
> they achieved air superiority over Europe. They didn't polish them and
> they weren't expected to last more than a few months in combat, but they
> looked cool clad only in alclad. So would your RV-7 which has an
> empennage
> profile intended to look like a P-51. My dad flew unpainted P-51s in the
> SC
> national guard. I have a picture somewhere of about thirty of them lined
> up
> on the ramp.
>
> 2. Experimental factor. You won't know what it takes and what it is like
> unless you try it. It will be more trouble to polish later if you have to
> remove a paint job first. You can always paint it later if you get tired
> of
> maintaining the polish or want to experience the painting experience.
>
> 3. It will look good. Three of the best looking RV-4's ever were Dave
> Ander's, Gordon Comfort's, and Paul Good's. Dave and Gordon's were
> totally
> polished, and Paul's was partially polished and copied a P-51 warbird
> paint
> scheme. You may have seen Paul's at one of the Chapter 105 breakfasts. I
> think Dave painted his after he added the turtle deck, but I'm not sure
> about that. I've seen your metal workmanship, and it is worthy of a
> polish
> job. Don't forget to polish the forward side of your prop (if you don't
> mind voiding the warranty.)
>
> 4. Improved performance. It will be substantially lighter unpainted, so
> it
> will climb better. Dave Anders set some sort of record with his. Some
> people claim painting them reduces drag and will increase cruise
> performance, though.
>
> 5. Will keep you out of trouble and save on vacation expense. Dave
> Anders
> once told me he and his dad polished his RV-4 twice a year. It took them
> 30
> hours to polish and 8 hours to clean. You and Gail will have your
> vacation
> plans taken care of until you paint the plane.
>
> 6. Initial cost savings. Have you priced car paint lately? Wow! It
> will
> cost you over a grand for the paint and supplies even if you do it
> yourself.
>
> 7. Caveat. Be sure there are no concave polished surfaces under your
> canopy. An RV-4 pilot damaged his canopy when he left it open over a
> polished and curved wing root fairing on a sunny day. If you neither
> paint
> nor polish, your skins will either corrode or look like they are
> corroding.
> I can refer you to some local unpolished and unpainted RV-4s if you want
> to
> form an opinion whether it is oxidation or corrosion you are seeing.
>
> If you do polish it, check out Superior Signs in Tigard for your decals.
> I
> may still have my metal gear leg fairing skins if you want polished metal
> ones.
>
> Rion
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
> To: <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>; <rv-list-digest@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: polishing aluminum
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Maybe it wasn't clear from my earlier post, so let me put it clearly:
>>
>> I am no expert on the subject, just doing research.
>>
>> I asked for expert input, and got it on the websites I quoted.
>>
>> Ofcourse you can have a professional polish your plane. $4,500 is still
>> cheaper (not by much) than the prices I hear from people who have had
>> their
>> airplane PAINTED by a professional. Will it take more than 4 days? Why
>> did
>> the RV-8 builder make it in 4?
>>
>> In fact I *did* mention there are more than one step, compounding and
>> polishing.
>>
>> And if I made it sound easier than it is, well, sorry- that was not the
>> intention, but how do YOU know? Did you polish an airplane? If so, I
>> would
>> be very interested if you could share some technical details, or at least
>> let us know who the professionals that did the polishing on your friends
>> 7
>> were. That would actually be beneficial for the readers.
>>
>> As far as your comment about "removing the pure aluminum" (alclad), that
>> is
>> not entirely correct. Read the link from the Perfect Polish
>> <http://www.perfectpolish.com/> website:
>>
>> "Will repeated polishing remove the Alcad coating? Not according to
>> Boeing.
>> As a quality control measure Boeing polishes all of their exterior skin
>> sections after forming using robotic polishers and Nuvite F-7. Apparently
>> defects in the skin are easier to spot when polished. They once polished
>> a
>> section 370 times and the surface cladding (Alcad) was still there.
>> Boeing
>> says that polishing does not remove metal, it just 'turns it over'. Of
>> course if the surface is badly corroded or has been sanded, the Alcad
>> will
>> be gone. But it will polish up nicely anyway."
>>
>> There is a big difference between corrosion and oxidation. Aluminum oxide
>> actually protects the aluminum underneath it from corroding. Unlike iron
>> that just "rusts way", aluminum forms an oxidized layer on the surface
>> that
>> protects the inside. That is what the Alclad is there for.
>>
>> So, before you scare everyone from polishing their RV, I suggest you
>> check
>> your opinions against the facts. Not meaning to sound harsh here, or to
>> start any list-mud-throwing, just advising caution, specificaly from
>> individuals who start their words with "Trust me when I say..." only to
>> follow with OPINIONS.
>>
>> Not that there is anything wrong with opinions, but they should be
>> presented
>> as such, not as facts.
>>
>> Opinion:
>> n.
>> A belief or conclusion held with confidence but not substantiated by
>> positive knowledge or proof.
>>
>> Again Scott, this is not meant to offend you in anyway. I hope you
>> understand that.
>>
>> Happy holidays,
>> Amit, a strong believer in personal opinions, but searching for the
>> facts.
>>
>>
>> ----
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
>> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>>
>> Trust me when I say your making it sound easier than it is. You are not
>> mentioning what level of finish you are striving for, a quick polish, or
>> a
>> real polish job. I have some friends who had their 7 professionally
>> polished, it took way longer than 4 days, and cost, $4500.00. This
>> process
>> is not a one step process, there are multiple steps which means you will
>> end up polishing the entire plane 3 maybe 4 times to get it to really
>> look
>> good. You will also be removing the pure aluminium coating, which keeps
>> the
>> base aluminium, from corroding.
>>
>> http://toolbar.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200415ave/direct/01/
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Autopilot GPS source switch |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I don't have my GPS yet (not sure if that actually would help) but I want to buy
a switch that will let me select between my Lowrance GPS and the GRT EFIS output
to drive my Trio autopilot and I saw this on someone's website. If I have
the Lowrance driving the autopilot I still want it to also feed the EFIS. Can't
find it now.
What switch type am I looking to purchase and what's actually going to be wired
up?
Thanks,
Lucky
I don't have my GPS yet (not sure if that actually would help) but I want to buy
a switch that will let me select between my Lowrance GPS and the GRT EFIS output
to drive my Trio autopilot and I saw this on someone's website. If I have
the Lowrance driving the autopilot I still want it to alsofeed the EFIS. Can't
find it now.
What switch type am I looking to purchase and what's actually going to be wired
up?
Thanks,
Lucky
Message 40
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| Subject: | Rocket Insurance |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Hey you closet rocket guys on the list live Vince and Tom, what's your insurance
like on your plane? Did it go up recently too?
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
>
> Wow. Gonna make me work today huh?
>
> 40k builders risk $400 to $500
> 85K " $1000 whether in hangar or not (unless liability
> required)
>
> 85K Tailwheel 200 hour pilot no appreciable TW time $2750 to $3000
> 85K " 500 hr pilot " " $2250 ish
> 85K nosewheel 200 hour pilot $2000 ish
> 85K " 500 hr pilot $1600 - $1700
>
> 85K TW 1000 hrs fixed (sorry RW time doesn't count) no TW time
> $2250 (not appreciably different than the 500 hr no TW guy above).
>
> All of the above assume RV checkout and at least 25 hours TW in a
> tailwheel more substantial than a J3 or Cessna 140... something like
> a Citabria.
>
> Also, while talking so much insurance on the lists today, be aware
> that for EAA's program you HAVE to have an N# assigned/reserved even
> to bind a builders risk. AIG will accept serial number.
>
> Hope that helps and on your last comment, it's my pleasure.
>
> JT
>
>
>
> --- In vansairforce@yahoogroups.com, "Darwin N. Barrie"
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi JT,
> >
> > Since this list is always in flux with new members and builders is
> it
> > possible to give some "ballpark" qoutes for not only builders
> policies but
> > for flying policies. I think this would be good baseline for us to
> work
> > with. I realize everything is variable. The examples below I think
> represent
> > some commonality and "worst case" scenarios.
> >
> > Examples for a builders policy:
> > $40K (airframe only)
> > $85K (airframe, engine, avionics in house)
> > $85K (airframe, engine, avionics in hangar)
> >
> > Flying policy assuming $85K plane tail dragger:
> > Pilot- 200 hours no tail time (tail endorsement but no real time
> w/Van's
> > checkout)
> > Pilot- 500 hours no tail time (same as above)
> >
> > Flying policy assuming $85K plane nose gear:
> > Pilot 200 hours with Van's transition
> > Pilot 500 hours with Van's transition
> >
> > And while were at it since I'm not too far from flying:
> > 1000 hours fixed wing, Private pilot no tail time w/endorsement
> and Van's
> > checkout.
> > 2000 hours helicopter time, Commercial.
> >
> > Thanks for your dedication to the industry.
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie
> > Chandler AZ
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From:
> > To:
> > Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 8:08 AM
> > Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Re: Builders insurance.. FYI
> >
> >
> > >
> > >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
Hey you closet rocket guys on the list live Vince and Tom, what's your insurance
like on your plane? Did it go up recently too?
-------------- Original message --------------
Wow. Gonna make me work today huh?
40k builders risk $400 to $500
85K " $1000 whether in hangar or not (unless liability
required)
85K Tailwheel 200 hour pilot no appreciable TW time $2750 to $3000
85K " 500 hr pilot " " $2250 ish
85K nosewheel 200 hour pilot $2000 ish
85K " 500 hr pilot $1600 - $1700
85K TW 1000 hrs fixed (sorry RW time doesn't count) no TW time
$2250 (not appreciably different than the 500 hr no TW guy above).
All of the above assume RV checkout and at least 25 hours TW in a
tailwheel more substantial than a J3 or Cessna 140... something like
a Citabria.
Also, while talking so much insurance on the lists today, be aware
&g
t; that for EAA's program you HAVE to have an N# assigned/reserved even
to bind a builders risk. AIG will accept serial number.
Hope that helps and on your last comment, it's my pleasure.
JT
--- In vansairforce@yahoogroups.com, "Darwin N. Barrie"
<KTLKRN@C...>wrote:
Hi JT,
Since this list is always in flux with new members and builders is
it
possible to give some "ballpark" qoutes for not only builders
policies but
for flying policies. I think this would be good baseline for us to
work
with. I realize everything is variable. The examples below I think
represent
some commonality and "worst case" scenarios.
Examples for a builders policy:
$40K (airframe only)
$85K (airframe, engine, avion
ics in house)
$85K (airframe, engine, avionics in hangar)
Flying policy assuming $85K plane tail dragger:
Pilot- 200 hours no tail time (tail endorsement but no real time
w/Van's
checkout)
Pilot- 500 hours no tail time (same as above)
Flying policy assuming $85K plane nose gear:
Pilot 200 hours with Van's transition
Pilot 500 hours with Van's transition
And while were at it since I'm not too far from flying:
1000 hours fixed wing, Private pilot no tail time w/endorsement
and Van's
checkout.
2000 hours helicopter time, Commercial.
Thanks for your dedication to the industry.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: <JHELMS@I...>
&g
t; To: <VANSAIRFORCE@YAHOOGROUPS.COM>
Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2004 8:08 AM
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Re: Builders insurance.. FYI
Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing, recap. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
GREAT post Amit!!
do not archive
Amit Dagan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>A few days ago I started a thread about polishing the aluminum skins of RVs.
>I specifically requested reasons for and against it. Most responds were
>unanimous about how beautiful a good polishing job looks, but warned about
>the time consumed, and several warned of the blinding effect (the reflection
>of light - and even worse - heat) on the pilot. One "I heard that" comment
>was made as to a case of the heat actually melting a canopy!!
>
>While on the subject, I e-mailed some Air Stream trailer folks about their
>experience with polishing (Alclad aluminum). These guys (and gals) usually
>start with a badly corroded 40-old project, and finish with
>better-than-mirror skins. Moreover, some need to remove the clear coat that
>was originally applied to the skins at the Air Stream factory. A good
>polishing story may be found at the links at the bottom of this post.
>
>I also e-mailed a gentleman that has recently completed an RV-8 and has it
>partially polished and part painted. He had no problem with light
>reflection, and he lives in California. It took him 4 days to polish, how
>long does it take to paint?!!
>
>The more I look into it, the more I am surprised that RV sheet metal
>builders are not more proud to show their metal work. The Sonex guys seem to
>enjoy showing their bird's skins much more. It might be an interesting topic
>for sociological research: Are builders of more and more complete kits more
>prone to just having someone professional do parts of the project FOR them
>(panel, paint, aftermarket fiberglass fairings)?
>Is paint vs. polish just a fashion thing, i.e. is the "retro look" of the
>Temco Swift or the early airliners bound to make a comeback shortly, or not?
>
>I am sending this post to the request of those who wanted to know what I
>found out, definitely not for the naysayer, who believes a painted airplane
>is more practical (if you want practical, are you sure you are in the right
>hobby?!! ;)
>
>A few Notes of interest:
>The compounding chemicals from the Nuvite company (nuvitechemical.com) will
>cost less than $100 for the project. And Nuvite probably has the most
>expensive line of compounds. My research has shown Nuvite to be the most
>popular rout, and some that have switched to it from other lines of products
>(e.g. Rolite) have not switched back.
>
>For the tools, a $50 1/2" chuck drill that turns ~ 1000RPM is recommended
>for the "compounding" stage, or you could use a $25 car polisher from Harbor
>Freight.
>For the fine polishing, a random orbit dual head tool called the "Cyclo
>model 5" is recommended. A new one is $270, but you can find them used on
>e-bay for less, or you can get a new one with accessories (pads, bonnets,
>etc) for a bargain $335. Both pneumatic and electrical models are out there.
>
>Wool bonnets, buffing pads, polishing cloth etc. - for a small plane will be
>around $150 if you buy plenty.
>
>You'll need some mineral spirits for cleaning, and a few miscellaneous items
>I probably am not aware of, but you can see that it will be less than $1000
>easily.
>
>As far as up-keep, the better the first polishing job is, the longer it will
>last, the less work you will have at the yearly or 6-month touch up polish,
>and from year to year it will be longer and longer between polishes. You
>don't do the whole compounding and polishing deal, only the last stage of
>fine polishing at those times. Hangaring your RV (which pretty much
>everybody is doing anyway) will help a lot, as well as hand drying it after
>it gets wet.
>
>As for waxing - it is actually not recommended nor needed. Of course every
>body that has ever polished anything (or hasn't!) has an opinion (or more
>than one) on one or more of the subjects I touched on.
>
>Links of interest:
>http://www.irinfo.com/polish/html/polish.html
>http://www.russellw.com/planes/ryan/polishing.htm
>http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Polish/Compounding.html
>http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Polish/Nuvite.html
>http://www.nuvitechemical.com/Prod%20Pages/Aircraft%20Page.htm
>http://www.perfectpolish.com/AirstreamProject.htm
>http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/complete.htm
>http://www.perfectpolish.com/Quick%20Guide.htm
>
>One tip you wont find in these links the ambient temperature needs to be
>above 65F for the polisher to do its thing. I suppose humidity will also be
>important, this should be covered in the material instructions.
>
>So, am I going to polish my -7?
>At this point I am undecided, but you can guess what I think about it. You
>can always go and paint a polished skin, just etch it and paint. Polishing a
>painted surface involves stripping the paint, but that too can be done.
>
>And finally, for the sake of educating the masses, from the owner of a
>polished airplane:
>Maybe the biggest problem with a polished AC is that everyone who sees
>it wants to touch it, then they make a scratch by rubbing their hands over
>it and continue to "FIX" the scratches by taking their shirt sleeve and make
>matters worse.
>
>So, the next time you see a polished skin, PLEASE don't give in to the urge
>of touching it!
>
>Happy holidays,
>Amit.
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 42
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| Subject: | Re: Trio Autopilot Control Rod |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <alto_q@direcway.com>
Arrows make good push rods. Inserts used to install hunting and field heads
would work just as well for a rod end bearing.
John D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Trio Autopilot Control Rod
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> I had some carbon fiber pushrods laying around from my 'big' RC modelling
> days and used one of them.
>
> Lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> I bought some solid aluminium tubing from a local hardware store,
>> and drilled and tapped it. Photos here:
>>
>> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040910173454452
>>
>> Mickey
>>
>>
>> >I m trying to install a recently purchased Trio autopilot in a flying
>> >RV6
>> >and Im looking for what other installers used for the control rod going
>> >from the servo to the control stick. Id like to use the existing rod end
>> >bearings sent with the auto pilot, but Im not having any luck finding
>> >6061
>> >T6 tubing that has a thick enough wall to tap the ends so that I can
>> >screw
>> >in the existing rod end bearings. The rod end bearings have a 6-32
>> >thread.
>> >What have other people done?..Thanks
>> >
>> >Fran Malczynski
>> >RV-6 N594EF
>> >Olcott, NY
>> >ebbfmm@yahoo.com
>>
>> --
>> Mickey Coggins
>> http://www.rv8.ch/
>> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> I had some carbon fiber pushrods laying around from my 'big' RC modelling
> days and used one of them.
>
> Lucky
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <MICK-MATRONICS@RV8.CH>
>
> Hi,
>
> I bought some solid aluminium tubing from a local hardware store,
> and drilled and tapped it. Photos here:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20040910173454452
>
> Mickey
>
>
> I m trying to install a recently purchased Trio autopilot in a flying RV6
> and Im looking for what other installers used for the control rod going
> from the servo to the control stick. Id like to use the existing rod end
> bearings sent with the auto pilot, but Im not having any luck finding 6061
> T6 tubing that has a thick enough wall to tap the ends so that I can screw
> in the existing rod end bearings. The rod end bearing
> s have a 6-32 thread.
> What have other people done?..Thanks
>
> Fran Malczynski
> RV-6 N594EF
> Olcott, NY
> ebbfmm@yahoo.com
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 QB Wings/Fuselage
>
>
> alle, List Admin.
> Share: http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
>
>
>
Message 43
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|
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=FgQ95hyzuyssZEGZEHHj6u6yRPwM9WJJCanw4rMv2IF1gj4zKEfxORJZhbjHcWM7J+zBSLJeviTA50HFbm3r5Q0FZXH03mWBCA+IPe8ayd+uxOKickHfEZEshN6qQQNn/rRjFOR5777vqeRjue8IBqyL2rirK4twOJyUzASVx1w=
;
| Subject: | Re: Fire Suppression System-items from my personal archive |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
I agree with you I will not have a fire extinguisher
in my plane.
I just posted my opinion of what would be the best
extinguisher to use.
Dale
--- linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters
> <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Dale Mitchell wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell
> <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
> >
> >I'm am no expert butt your right about the
> >corrosiveness of a chem extinguisher.
> >My thought is if you have a fire you will be lucky
> to
> >save your life.
> >IMHO
> >Dale
> >
> That point is well taken. AOPA had an article in
> November ..... and
> inflight fires are not that common. They found 82
> in-flight fire
> related accidents over 3 years. In 20, the crew was
> incapacitated
> before the airplane hit the ground. 14 were caused
> by electrical
> problems .... and 61 were engine related fires. Of
> the engine fires,
> oil starvation was #1, exhaust manifold failures
> were #2 and turbo fires
> #3. Their overriding theme was to get the airplane
> down ASAP (well,
> duh!)I think most fires occur during the startup
> phase when an engine
> can be over-primed. So, for me, the fire danger
> isn't enough to haul
> around a large bottle to flood the engine
> compartment (or the cabin)
> 'just in case'. So far I have over 2000 hours of
> purely personal fun
> flying without a fire. Where's that extinguisher
> .... I may be due!!! :-P
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> >
> >--- linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters
> >><lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
> >>
> >>Dale Mitchell wrote:
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell
> >>>
> >>>
> >><dfm4290@yahoo.com>
> >>
> >>
> >>>In my opinion if I use a fire suppression system
> I
> >>>would use a dry chem extinguisher.
> >>>the powder tends to stick to things.
> >>>It will make a mess but if your to the point to
> use
> >>>
> >>>
> >>it
> >>
> >>
> >>>that will be the least of your problems.
> >>>Iv Ben on the fire department for about 10 years
> >>>
> >>>
> >>and
> >>
> >>
> >>>the dry chem extinguisher tends to work best for
> >>>liquid fuel fires.
> >>>JMHO
> >>>Dale Mitchell
> >>>RV-8A MN Wing
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>HOWEVER, the dry chem is very corrosive to
> aluminum
> >>...... and it will
> >>find it's way into every nook and cranny. It's
> >>Hobson's choice .....
> >>let it burn (and collect the insurance) or let it
> >>corrode apart over
> >>time (and get no insurance). Dry chem isn't good
> >>for your lungs so if
> >>you have a cockpit fire ......
> >>As for an engine compartment fire ..... I think
> >>Halon may be able to
> >>kill the fire enough to get it under the flash
> point
> >>of burnables. I
> >>don't think it would have to last too long .....
> but
> >>then I'm no fire
> >>expert nor play one on TV. Maybe if I go spend
> the
> >>night in a Holiday
> >>Inn????
> >>If I have anything wrong here ..... I hope Dale
> will
> >>offer better data.
> >>Linn
> >>do not archive
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>>--- RV_8 Pilot <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "RV_8 Pilot"
> >>>><rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
> >>>>
> >>>>I can't see anything of reasonable size or
> weight
> >>>>being of much use in a
> >>>>cowling for a flying airplane (due to air
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>velocity).
> >>
> >>
> >>>>Am I missing something
> >>>>here? Even race cars would probably have to
> stop
> >>>>moving then activate a
> >>>>system to be effective. In the cockpit - now
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>that's
> >>
> >>
> >>>>a different story.
> >>>>Foam or Halon... take your pick. I have Halon.
> >>>>
> >>>>2 cents
> >>>>
> >>>>Bryan
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>>>David,
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>I'm also one who thinks having an onboard fire
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>suppression system could be
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>a
> >>>>>good life saving measure.
> >>>>>I did some searches on the Matronics archives
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>(RVs)
> >>
> >>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>and found mostly
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>deriding comments on such a system.
> >>>>>Their point being, because of the very high air
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>velocity going through the
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>>engine compartment; it would disperse the Halon
> >>>>>
>
=== message truncated ===
__________________________________
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Message 44
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|
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing, recap. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@earthlink.net>
Amit Dagan wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>A few days ago I started a thread about polishing the aluminum skins of RVs.
>I specifically requested reasons for and against it. Most responds were
>unanimous about how beautiful a good polishing job looks, but warned about
>the time consumed, and several warned of the blinding effect (the reflection
>of light - and even worse - heat) on the pilot. One "I heard that" comment
>was made as to a case of the heat actually melting a canopy!!
>
>
>
Amit
Being in the hanger next to you I can vouch for the excellent
workmanship on your RV. I am not the one the mentioned melted
canopy, but I have seen it with my own eyes on an RV-6. I also talked to
an owner of an polished RV-4 from
Calif. that had melted his canopy from reflective heat off of the wing.
Before you do it I would suggest that you stand by a
well polished airplane on a hot sunny day.
Jerry
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: Aluminum polishing, recap. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Amit:
The comment "you can always paint a polished surface" might be a little
mis-leading. You certainly can but I think it would be very difficult to
get all the polishing residue and various other contaminants out of every
rivet dimple and seam.
When discussing paint prep a painter told me the only difficult problem to
overcome was cleaning a previously polished surface.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Aluminum polishing, recap.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Amit Dagan" <amitdagan@hotmail.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> A few days ago I started a thread about polishing the aluminum skins of
> RVs.
> I specifically requested reasons for and against it. Most responds were
> unanimous about how beautiful a good polishing job looks, but warned about
> the time consumed, and several warned of the blinding effect (the
> reflection
> of light - and even worse - heat) on the pilot. One "I heard that" comment
> was made as to a case of the heat actually melting a canopy!!
>
> While on the subject, I e-mailed some Air Stream trailer folks about their
> experience with polishing (Alclad aluminum). These guys (and gals) usually
> start with a badly corroded 40-old project, and finish with
> better-than-mirror skins. Moreover, some need to remove the clear coat
> that
> was originally applied to the skins at the Air Stream factory. A good
> polishing story may be found at the links at the bottom of this post.
>
> I also e-mailed a gentleman that has recently completed an RV-8 and has it
> partially polished and part painted. He had no problem with light
> reflection, and he lives in California. It took him 4 days to polish, how
> long does it take to paint?!!
>
> The more I look into it, the more I am surprised that RV sheet metal
> builders are not more proud to show their metal work. The Sonex guys seem
> to
> enjoy showing their bird's skins much more. It might be an interesting
> topic
> for sociological research: Are builders of more and more complete kits
> more
> prone to just having someone professional do parts of the project FOR them
> (panel, paint, aftermarket fiberglass fairings)?
> Is paint vs. polish just a fashion thing, i.e. is the "retro look" of the
> Temco Swift or the early airliners bound to make a comeback shortly, or
> not?
>
> I am sending this post to the request of those who wanted to know what I
> found out, definitely not for the naysayer, who believes a painted
> airplane
> is more practical (if you want practical, are you sure you are in the
> right
> hobby?!! ;)
>
> A few Notes of interest:
> The compounding chemicals from the Nuvite company (nuvitechemical.com)
> will
> cost less than $100 for the project. And Nuvite probably has the most
> expensive line of compounds. My research has shown Nuvite to be the most
> popular rout, and some that have switched to it from other lines of
> products
> (e.g. Rolite) have not switched back.
>
> For the tools, a $50 1/2" chuck drill that turns ~ 1000RPM is recommended
> for the "compounding" stage, or you could use a $25 car polisher from
> Harbor
> Freight.
> For the fine polishing, a random orbit dual head tool called the "Cyclo
> model 5" is recommended. A new one is $270, but you can find them used on
> e-bay for less, or you can get a new one with accessories (pads, bonnets,
> etc) for a bargain $335. Both pneumatic and electrical models are out
> there.
>
> Wool bonnets, buffing pads, polishing cloth etc. - for a small plane will
> be
> around $150 if you buy plenty.
>
> You'll need some mineral spirits for cleaning, and a few miscellaneous
> items
> I probably am not aware of, but you can see that it will be less than
> $1000
> easily.
>
> As far as up-keep, the better the first polishing job is, the longer it
> will
> last, the less work you will have at the yearly or 6-month touch up
> polish,
> and from year to year it will be longer and longer between polishes. You
> don't do the whole compounding and polishing deal, only the last stage of
> fine polishing at those times. Hangaring your RV (which pretty much
> everybody is doing anyway) will help a lot, as well as hand drying it
> after
> it gets wet.
>
> As for waxing - it is actually not recommended nor needed. Of course every
> body that has ever polished anything (or hasn't!) has an opinion (or more
> than one) on one or more of the subjects I touched on.
>
> Links of interest:
> http://www.irinfo.com/polish/html/polish.html
> http://www.russellw.com/planes/ryan/polishing.htm
> http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Polish/Compounding.html
> http://www.tompatterson.com/Trailers/Polish/Nuvite.html
> http://www.nuvitechemical.com/Prod%20Pages/Aircraft%20Page.htm
> http://www.perfectpolish.com/AirstreamProject.htm
> http://globetrotter64.home.att.net/complete.htm
> http://www.perfectpolish.com/Quick%20Guide.htm
>
> One tip you wont find in these links the ambient temperature needs to be
> above 65F for the polisher to do its thing. I suppose humidity will also
> be
> important, this should be covered in the material instructions.
>
> So, am I going to polish my -7?
> At this point I am undecided, but you can guess what I think about it. You
> can always go and paint a polished skin, just etch it and paint. Polishing
> a
> painted surface involves stripping the paint, but that too can be done.
>
> And finally, for the sake of educating the masses, from the owner of a
> polished airplane:
> Maybe the biggest problem with a polished AC is that everyone who sees
> it wants to touch it, then they make a scratch by rubbing their hands over
> it and continue to "FIX" the scratches by taking their shirt sleeve and
> make
> matters worse.
>
> So, the next time you see a polished skin, PLEASE don't give in to the
> urge
> of touching it!
>
> Happy holidays,
> Amit.
>
>
>
Message 46
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|
| Subject: | Re: How do you replace the tailwheel bearings? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
Thank your for all answers off and on the list.
This morning I was able to drive out the bearings with a punch through
the axle hole.
Just took a bit more force than I expected.
They are not easy to clean, and for next year's annual I'll be sure to
have a new set on hand. (Less than $3 a piece from Vans. Shipping is
probably going to cost more than the bearings :)
Finn
George P. Tyler wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "George P. Tyler" <gptyler@metrocast.net>
>
>On my 6 I found it easier and not very expensive to replace the wheel.
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Finn Lassen" <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: How do you replace the tailwheel bearings?
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Finn Lassen <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
>>
>>How do you replace the tailwheel bearings?
>>
>>I've searched the archives and found part numbers, but how do you get
>>the darned things out to inspect/replace?
>>
>>Mine is an R&K, 6 X 225.
>>3/8" axle bolt.
>>I assume that is the "standard" tailwheel.
>>
>>Finn
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 47
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|
| Subject: | Re: Autopilot GPS source switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
lucky wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> I don't have my GPS yet (not sure if that actually would help) but I
> want to buy a switch that will let me select between my Lowrance GPS
> and the GRT EFIS output to drive my Trio autopilot and I saw this on
> someone's website. If I have the Lowrance driving the autopilot I
> still want it to also feed the EFIS. Can't find it now.
>
> What switch type am I looking to purchase and what's actually going
> to be wired up?
Not sure I can totally answer your question since it seems you described
two different scenarios. If you want to select the NMEA feed to the
EZ-Pilot to originate from either the Lowrance *or* the EFIS, a simple
SPDT toggle switch will do the trick. I have this arrangement on my
panel so I can select either the Airmap 100 or AnyWhereMap to drive the
EZ-Pilot. The only wire being switched is the NMEA data from each
device. Unfortunately, Control Vision is not yet providing a standard
NMEA data stream from AnyWhereMap so the EZ-Pilot can't digest the data
from AWM. The autopilot works perfectly with the Lowrance, however.
But, in the same paragraph you seem to imply you want to have the
Lowrance simultaneously sending NMEA data to the EFIS. You lost me
there. Sorry.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
Message 48
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|
"Rocket List" <rocket-list@matronics.com>,
"RV List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
I just reviewed my pilot log book and counted all the people I have given rides
to.
After a little more that 2.5 years of flying, I had given ONE HUNDRED (different
people - repeats don't count) Rocket rides.
Of course, 38 were Young Eagles rides but the rest were EAA members, family members,
and just airport people who were around at the right time.
I am sure John Harmon has given many times that amount in his Rocket but I thought
I would share my personal milestone with you all.
Take care.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
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