Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:06 AM - Re: Wheel pant brackets cracking? (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
2. 03:28 AM - FW: Re: [GRT_EFIS] Re: Autopilot GPS source switch (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
3. 07:08 AM - Inter-cylinder baffles (Dave Bristol)
4. 07:13 AM - Re: Tail Wheel wear (Maureen & Bob Christensen)
5. 07:30 AM - Re: Tail Wheel wear (Sam Buchanan)
6. 08:14 AM - Re: Inter-cylinder baffles clamav-milter version 0.80j on zoot.lafn.org (Dan Checkoway)
7. 08:14 AM - Re: Tail Wheel wear (Bob J)
8. 08:24 AM - Airseal- lower cowl to baffle inlet floor (Jack Blomgren)
9. 08:48 AM - Re: Wheel pant brackets cracking? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
10. 08:58 AM - Re: aileron travel (Jeff Dowling)
11. 09:01 AM - Re: Autopilot istallation instructions (Jeff Dowling)
12. 09:02 AM - Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 (davercook)
13. 09:21 AM - Re: Wheel pant brackets cracking? (linn walters)
14. 09:28 AM - 25 hour Phase One ()
15. 09:33 AM - Fw: Re: I would like more info on XP vs TMX engines (Bobby Hester)
16. 10:07 AM - Re: aileron travel (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 10:17 AM - Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 (Maureen & Bob Christensen)
18. 10:29 AM - Re: aileron travel (Scott Bilinski)
19. 10:36 AM - Rv-list used GPS (Weasel Graber)
20. 11:19 AM - Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 (Radomir Zaric)
21. 11:47 AM - Lubricating my pneum squeezer? (William Couvillon)
22. 11:54 AM - Re: aileron travel (Gary Zilik)
23. 12:05 PM - Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 (SportAV8R@aol.com)
24. 12:35 PM - Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? (David Carter)
25. 01:02 PM - Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? (Gary Zilik)
26. 01:16 PM - Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? (Greg@itmack)
27. 01:27 PM - Re: aileron travel (Scott Bilinski)
28. 02:16 PM - Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? (Jamie Painter)
29. 03:11 PM - Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 (LarryRobertHelming)
30. 04:28 PM - Re:Prop Extension (Rolf Unternaehrer)
31. 05:42 PM - Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 (davercook)
32. 06:33 PM - Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 (Radomir Zaric)
33. 06:44 PM - Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? (Speed 3 Guy)
34. 07:47 PM - Mitchell Tach for Sale (lui)
35. 09:59 PM - Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? (Fred Kunkel)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant brackets cracking? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
I have a RV6-A so perhaps there has been a change in the plans.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel pant brackets cracking?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 12/14/04 7:31:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
> tcervin@valkyrie.net writes:
>
>> Dan, My bolts are safety wired per the plans.
>> Tom
>> in Ohio
>>
>
> Tom,
>
> The bolts that I am having trouble with are the 3 bolts that mount the
> inner
> main fairing bracket to the brake mounting flange. My plans didn't show
> any
> safety wire there. Have they changed? I thought about using castle nuts
> with
> cotter keys.
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
>
>
Message 2
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vansairforce@yahoogroups.com (RV yahoo)
| Subject: | Re: [GRT_EFIS] Re: Autopilot GPS source switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
To round out the email chain on the question of Can you split the GPS signal up
and still have the signal reliable. More specifically, can I "hotwire" the
GPS signal to two or more devices simultaneously the answer is YES based on the
email I got back. I should be able to split the signal and send it to at least
3 different devices and I can switch Autopilot sources using the SPDT ON-ON
type micro-switch wired the way I mention below.
Lucky
-------------- Forwarded Message: --------------
From: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen@cox.net>
Subject: FW: RV-List: Re: [GRT_EFIS] Re: Autopilot GPS source switch
Hello, Lucky:
(I occasionally lurk on the RV List and just saw these posts)
Our experience with the GPS signals from most GPS receivers is that your
proposed hookup will not appreciably degrade the signal, and it should work
just fine.
Best regards,
Jerry Hansen
Trio Avionics, Inc.
Phone: 619-448-4619
http://www.trioavionics.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael
(ISS Atlanta)
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: [GRT_EFIS] Re: Autopilot GPS source switch
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
Lucky,
I asked this same ? to John Stark and he said you can split 3 times with
out any concern for appreciable signal degradation on a serial split.
I have had to split on several devices.
Mike
S8 Wiring.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: RV-List: Re: [GRT_EFIS] Re: Autopilot GPS source switch
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
That's only part of the solution, as Sam points out, and why I asked the
question to the list in the first place because I couldn't see the
switch solving the other part of the problem. I want the autopilot to
be driven by two different sources but also wanted the switch to serve
as a "T" for the Lawrence GPS seriel output to drive the GRT all the
time. But I had some coffee and realized that if I tie the GRT's GPS
seriel in line to the same pole that the Lawrence GPS output signal is
connected to then that pole acts as a always hot "T" to allow the GPS
signal to always find it's way to the GRT all the time. That can be
accomplished by putting both systems' wires into the same connector
before crimping (or solder contact before soldering).
Now it's a day later and when I look at this I don't even see the need
for the DP as Paul points out. I think this would work with a SPDT
switch like Paul does.
The main ? now is that if I have the switch in the position where the
Lawrence is feeding both systems the GPS signal out of the same wire and
power source, by splitting it's output what am I going to do to the
signal quality and ultimately reliability? Probably none with these
modern systems and short wire runs and minimal conductor exposure in low
RFI environments.
But anyone know for sure?
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Real easy Lucky - a simple DPDT mini toggle switch with the serial
> lines hooked up to teh "outside" contacts and the autopilot serial
> lines connected to the middle poles. (I actually only switched the
> single serial line and not the grounds, as I am using a common signal
> ground for all of the serial lines in the system, so I could have
> gotten by with a SPDT switch - but then again, I'm an aeronautical
> engineer by training, and not a EE...what do I know about electrons?
> LOL...)
>
> Paul Dye
>
>
> --- In GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com, luckymacy@c... wrote:
> > I don't have my GPS yet (not sure if that actually would help) but
> I want to buy a switch that will let me select between my Lowrance
> GPS and the GRT EFIS output to drive my Trio autopilot and I saw this
> on someone's website. If I have the Lowrance driving the autopilot I
> still want it to also feed the EFIS. Can't find it now.
> >
> > What switch type am I looking to purchase and what's actually going
> to be wired up?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Lucky
>
>
>
>
>
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/Q7_YsB/neXJAA/yQLSAA/jrDrlB/TM
>
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> GRT_EFIS-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
That's only part of the solution, as Sam points out, and why I asked the
question to the list in the first place because I couldn't see the
switch solving the other part of the problem. I want the autopilot to be
driven by two different sources but alsowanted the switch to serve as a
"T" for the Lawrence GPS seriel output to drive the GRT all the time.But
I had some coffee and realized that if I tie the GRT's GPS seriel in
line to the same pole that the Lawrence GPS output signal isconnectedto
then that pole acts as a always hot"T" to allow the GPS signal to always
find it's way to the GRT all the time.That can be accomplished by
putting both systems'wires into the same connector before crimping (or
solder contact before soldering).
Now it's a day later and when I look at this I don't even see the need
for the DP as Paul points out. I think this would work with a SPDT
switch like Paul does.
The main ? now is that if I have the switch in the position where the
Lawrence is feeding both systems the GPS signal out of the same wire and
power source, by splitting it's output what am I going to do to the
signal quality and ultimately reliability? Probably none with these
modern systems and short wire runs and minimal conductor exposure in
lowRFI environments.
But anyone know for sure?
-------------- Original message --------------
Real easy Lucky - a simple DPDT mini toggle switch with the serial
lines hooked up to teh "outside" contacts and the autopilot serial
lines connected to the middle poles. (I actually only switched the
single serial line and not the grounds, as I am using a common signal
ground for all of the serial lines in the system, so I could have
gotten by with a SPDT switch - but then again, I'm an aeronautical
engineer by training, and not a EE...what do I know about electrons?
LOL...)
Paul Dye
--- In GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com, luckymacy@c... wrote:
I don't have my GPS yet (not sure if that actually would help) but
I want to buy a switch that will let me select between my Lowrance
GPS a
nd the GRT EFIS output to drive my Trio autopilot and I saw this
on someone's website. If I have the Lowrance driving the autopilot I
still want it to also feed the EFIS. Can't find it now.
What switch type am I looking to purchase and what's actually going
to be wired up?
Thanks,
Lucky
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Q7_YsB/neXJAA/yQLSAA/jrDrlB/TM
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
GRT_EFIS-unsubs
cribe@yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
To round out the email chain on the question of Can you split the GPS signal up
and still have the signal reliable. More specifically, can I "hotwire" the GPS
signal to two or more devices simultaneously the answer is YES based on the
email I got back. I should be able to split the signal and send it to at least
3 different devices and I can switch Autopilot sources using the SPDT ON-ON type
micro-switch wired the way I mention below.
Lucky
-------------- Forwarded Message: --------------
From: "Jerry Hansen" jerry-hansen@cox.net
Subject: FW: RV-List: Re: [GRT_EFIS] Re: Autopilot GPS source switch
Hello, Lucky:
(I occasionally lurk on the RV List and just saw these posts)
Our experience with the GPS signals from most GPS receivers is that your
proposed hookup will not appreciably degrade the signal, and it should work
just fine.
Best regards,
Jerry Hansen
Trio Avionics, Inc.
Phone: 619-448-4619
http://www.trioavionics.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stewart, Michael
(ISS Atlanta)
om
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: [GRT_EFIS] Re: Autopilot GPS source switch
-- RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<MSTEWART@ISS.NET>
Lucky,
I asked this same ? to John Stark and he said you can split 3 times with
out any concern for appreciable signal degradation on a serial split.
I have had to split on several devices.
Mike
S8 Wiring.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: RV-List: Re: [GRT_EFIS] Re: Autopilot GPS source switch
-- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
That's only part of the solution, as Sam points out, and why I asked the
question to the list in the first place because I couldn't see the
switch solving the other part of the problem. I want the autopilot to
be driven by two differ
ent sources but also wanted the switch to serve
as a "T" for the Lawrence GPS seriel output to drive the GRT all the
time. But I had some coffee and realized that if I tie the GRT's GPS
seriel in line to the same pole that the Lawrence GPS output signal is
connected to then that pole acts as a always hot "T" to allow the GPS
signal to always find it's way to the GRT all the time. That can be
accomplished by putting both systems' wires into the same connector
before crimping (or solder contact before soldering).
Now it's a day later and when I look at this I don't even see the need
for the DP as Paul points out. I think this would work with a SPDT
switch like Paul does.
The main ? now is that if I have the switch in the position where the
Lawrence is feeding both systems the GPS signal out of the same wire and
power source, by splitting it's output what am I going to do to the
signal quality and ultimately reliab
ility? Probably none with these
modern systems and short wire runs and minimal conductor exposure in low
RFI environments.
But anyone know for sure?
-------------- Original message --------------
Real easy Lucky - a simple DPDT mini toggle switch with the serial
lines hooked up to teh "outside" contacts and the autopilot serial
lines connected to the middle poles. (I actually only switched the
single serial line and not the grounds, as I am using a common signal
ground for all of the serial lines in the system, so I could have
gotten by with a SPDT switch - but then again, I'm an aeronautical
engineer by training, and not a EE...what do I know about electrons?
LOL...)
Paul Dye
--- In GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com, luckymacy@c... wrote:
I don't have my GPS yet (not sure if that actually would help) but
I want to buy a switch that will let me select between my Lowrance
GPS and the GRT EFIS output to drive my Trio autopilot and I saw this
on someone's website. If I have the Lowrance driving the autopilot I
still want it to also feed the EFIS. Can't find it now.
What switch type am I looking to purchase and what's actually going
to be wired up?
Thanks,
Lucky
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Q7_YsB/neXJAA/yQLSAA/jrDrlB/TM
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
GRT_EFIS-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
That's only part of the solution, as Sam points out, and
why I asked the
question to the list in the first place because I couldn't see the
switch solving the other part of the problem. I want the autopilot to be
driven by two different sources but alsowanted the switch to serve as a
"T" for the Lawrence GPS seriel output to drive the GRT all the time.But
I had some coffee and realized that if I tie the GRT's GPS seriel in
line to the same pole that the Lawrence GPS output signal isconnectedto
then that pole acts as a always hot"T" to allow the GPS signal to always
find it's way to the GRT all the time.That can be accomplished by
putting both systems'wires into the same connector before crimping (or
solder contact before soldering).
Now it's a day later and when I look at this I don't even see the need
for the DP as Paul points out. I think this would work with a SPDT
switch like Paul does.
The main ? now is that if I have the switch in the position where the
Lawr
ence is feeding both systems the GPS signal out of the same wire and
power source, by splitting it's output what am I going to do to the
signal quality and ultimately reliability? Probably none with these
modern systems and short wire runs and minimal conductor exposure in
lowRFI environments.
But anyone know for sure?
-------------- Original message --------------
Real easy Lucky - a simple DPDT mini toggle switch with the serial
lines hooked up to teh "outside" contacts and the autopilot serial
lines connected to the middle poles. (I actually only switched the
single serial line and not the grounds, as I am using a common signal
ground for all of the serial lines in the system, so I could have
gotten by with a SPDT switch - but then again, I'm an aeronautical
engineer by training, and not a EE...what do I know about electrons?
LOL...)
Paul Dye
--- In GRT_EFIS@yahoogroups.com, luckymacy@
c... wrote:
I don't have my GPS yet (not sure if that actually would help) but
I want to buy a switch that will let me select between my Lowrance
GPS a
nd the GRT EFIS output to drive my Trio autopilot and I saw this
on someone's website. If I have the Lowrance driving the autopilot I
still want it to also feed the EFIS. Can't find it now.
What switch type am I looking to purchase and what's actually going
to be wired up?
Thanks,
Lucky
http://us.click.yahoo.com/Q7_YsB/neXJAA/yQLSAA/jrDrlB/TM
* To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/GRT_EFIS/
* To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
GRT_EFIS-unsubs
cribe@yahoogroups.com
http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
=================================================================
Message 3
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| Subject: | Inter-cylinder baffles |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Does anyone know how big the baffle opening should be underneath the
cylinders? I'm using the inter-cylinder baffles that came with my O-360
(the donor airplane was a Mooney) and Van's baffle kit. The distance
between the inter-cylinder baffle and the section of Van's baffle that
curves around the cylinder is about 2" on #1,2 and 4 but on #3 (the
hottest cylinder) the opening is over 3". I'm wondering if this might be
contributing to #3 being too hot.
Anyway, it would be interesting to find out what the normal opening is
and the size of the inter-cylinder baffle itself since mine are the only
ones I've seen. I found nothing in the archives on this subject.
Dave -6 So Cal
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
Has anyone put a "big boy" (Maule or Scott) tailwheel on a RV? I'm not
flying yet but the one from Van's doesn't look very robust!
Regards,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Builder - SE Iowa
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Tail Wheel wear
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Ah Ha,
>
> I got you beat, I already measured mine.
>
> New its 5.875" diameter; mine, at 800 hours, is at 4.812"D which means I
> have worn off about 1/2".
>
> I wonder what the increase on tail wheel wieght is because of this? Less
> rubber but the CG is moved aft a tad due to the shift in attitude.
>
> I do agree, it does get hung up in tie down potholes a lot more.
>
> Hmmm, still don't know if its worn out yet?????
>
> W
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Maureen & Bob Christensen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
>
> Has anyone put a "big boy" (Maule or Scott) tailwheel on a RV? I'm not
> flying yet but the one from Van's doesn't look very robust!
>
Looks can be deceiving! :-)
The Vans tailwheel is a stout piece (the one on my RV-6 has endured
torture........) that is sometimes used on other designs due to its
strength and simplicity.
Sam Buchanan
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Inter-cylinder baffles clamav-milter version 0.80j |
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Talk to Sam James. He seems to be an expert on this subject and can out
dimensions for this stuff off the top of his head.
http://www.jamesaircraft.com
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034@lafn.org>
Subject: RV-List: Inter-cylinder baffles clamav-milter version 0.80j on
zoot.lafn.org
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Does anyone know how big the baffle opening should be underneath the
> cylinders? I'm using the inter-cylinder baffles that came with my O-360
> (the donor airplane was a Mooney) and Van's baffle kit. The distance
> between the inter-cylinder baffle and the section of Van's baffle that
> curves around the cylinder is about 2" on #1,2 and 4 but on #3 (the
> hottest cylinder) the opening is over 3". I'm wondering if this might be
> contributing to #3 being too hot.
> Anyway, it would be interesting to find out what the normal opening is
> and the size of the inter-cylinder baffle itself since mine are the only
> ones I've seen. I found nothing in the archives on this subject.
>
> Dave -6 So Cal
>
>
Message 7
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|
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=beta; d=gmail.com;
b=XLHde/+DtYeakriLt3gjXJHnoSoEng825rmB6IGrZ245lPuRHU7shB5WYnxouydYsoCf47GxaGfz/4Gw64Uif8IclBrz0b/Jc+EqB1LzYhZocBUnYBoUuLD0UFAfMHO+BSezpfJ9OO9nQJOmYGCTUJaylRohwud97wNYXZUb+c8Received:
by 10.54.33.33 with SMTP id g33mr1791444wrg;
Wed, 15 Dec 2004 08:10:14 -0800 (PST)
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
I have a friend who just did this mod to his RV-4, and used the Maule
tailwheel, the same one used on the Pitts. I believe it is 1/2"
larger in diameter, but is much softer than the Van's tailwheel. He
fabricated a new tailwheel fork which has a bit more caster in it.
Regards,
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Wed, 15 Dec 2004 09:12:38 -0600, Maureen & Bob Christensen
<mchriste@danvilletelco.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
>
> Has anyone put a "big boy" (Maule or Scott) tailwheel on a RV? I'm not
> flying yet but the one from Van's doesn't look very robust!
>
> Regards,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 Builder - SE Iowa
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Tail Wheel wear
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
> >
> > Ah Ha,
> >
> > I got you beat, I already measured mine.
> >
> > New its 5.875" diameter; mine, at 800 hours, is at 4.812"D which means I
> > have worn off about 1/2".
> >
> > I wonder what the increase on tail wheel wieght is because of this? Less
> > rubber but the CG is moved aft a tad due to the shift in attitude.
> >
> > I do agree, it does get hung up in tie down potholes a lot more.
> >
> > Hmmm, still don't know if its worn out yet?????
> >
> > W
> >
> >
> > do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Airseal- lower cowl to baffle inlet floor |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jack Blomgren" <jackanet@hotmail.com>
Builders,
What is your successful method, each time when installing the finished lower
cowl with its riveted-on Airseals, getting the extended Airseals up through
the specified 3/8" gaps and onto the top side of the baffle inlet floors?
Am I missing something? (See pages 4 & 5 for parts 2 and 10, Right @ Left
Front Air Inlet Floor in Van's Cowl Baffle Kit - Installation Guide.)
Thanks,
Jack, RV-8
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant brackets cracking? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 12/14/04 11:02:23 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
stein@steinair.com writes:
> I'll try this hint again.....Use the High Temp Self Locking Nuts....
>
> They don't come loose, don't melt, and you don't have to fiddl with cotter
> keys, etc..
>
> Cheers,
> Stein
Stein,
Thanks. I did read and plan to take your advice. Sorry, I forgot to thank
you. I did mention your name to Dan C. in an offlist email, so I am listening.
The worst part is that I have to jack the plane up and remove the wheels to
get to the heads of the bolts. And, as you know, its cold up here!
Dan H.
RV-7A
N766DH
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: aileron travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Have you checked the bearings? I had an old one and found it had frozen
after just a couple of flights. Vans has switched to a different style.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: aileron travel
> --> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
>
> I just finnished up the wings and was checking out
> motion ect.. and wanted to ask , any of you others
> I was moving the alierons back and forth and it
> seemslike its kinda binding ever so slightly on the
> skin are those suppose to be rubbing?> it will go
> past the point but its rubbing although
> nothing is scratching the alieron skins it seems too tight
> of tolarence whats the story on that.. once it
> breaks over past on the down swing its very hard to pull
> back up through the tight spot.. any idea? solutions ?
> what is the degree of movement needed I got a message about
> 15 to 17 degree's the problem is when it goes fully up past
> the skin at the gap flairing..
>
> Danny..
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Autopilot istallation instructions |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Remember it may be a good idea to drill through the tap'd installation holes
on the servo and replace with bolts/nuts. I didnt trust loc-tite.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
Subject: RV-List: Autopilot istallation instructions
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
>
> Just received my servos from TruTrak and included is all the hardware and
> installation instruction manual with some excellent pictures and as has
> been mentioned, the drawings for a RV 7 installation in the left hand
> wing.
>
> A couple of questions come to mind, the WD421 L is not the same as the one
> shown in the 7 drawing. The difference being their is a difference in the
> divergence of the two arms, looks like around 4-5 degrees and also the
> arms look like they are about 1/4 inch longer.
>
> The other is all the info pertains to a left hand installation. I realize
> that the right hand installation is probably a mirror image of the left,
> did I miss something when I ordered them. What would be the advantage of a
> right hand installation?
>
> Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
Listers
Any thoughts on the difference between the Superior XP-360 and the Mattituck TMX-360.
The TMX is $1000 less and closer to my home (less shipping cost).I know
lots of people like AeroSport but they are a long way away from Florida. Also,
Superior will be increasing price as of Jan. 1st. Or is ECI a better or cheaper
way to go. I don't know who distributes the ECI engine.There web site only
indicates parts available.
Thanks
Dave Cook
Looking for Windmill for RV-6
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel pant brackets cracking? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I don't know where 'up here' is .... but down here (FL) it's cold too.
:-( And windy. Must be our winter week!!! ;-)
No snow yet though! Can't wait to put my shorts back on!!!
Linn
do not archive this drivel.
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 12/14/04 11:02:23 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>stein@steinair.com writes:
>
>
>
>>I'll try this hint again.....Use the High Temp Self Locking Nuts....
>>
>>They don't come loose, don't melt, and you don't have to fiddl with cotter
>>keys, etc..
>>
>>Cheers,
>>Stein
>>
>>
>
>Stein,
>
>Thanks. I did read and plan to take your advice. Sorry, I forgot to thank
>you. I did mention your name to Dan C. in an offlist email, so I am listening.
> The worst part is that I have to jack the plane up and remove the wheels to
>get to the heads of the bolts. And, as you know, its cold up here!
>
>Dan H.
>RV-7A
>N766DH
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | 25 hour Phase One |
--> RV-List message posted by: <nyman@bellsouth.net>
Yeah, we did ask if a ferry permit was a possibility and were told no way. If
I get some good weather in COS in late January and early February, I should be
able to get the 40 hours flown off pretty quickly. I'm used to spending a lot
of time in the air, so 5 or 6 hours a day shouldn't be too dificult, if we don't
run in to any big problems.
Steve
MEM
7QB
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Fwd: Re: I would like more info on XP vs TMX engines |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
--- In XP-360Forum@yahoogroups.com, "mahlon_r" <mahlon_russell@t...>
wrote:
The XP-360 engine uses Superior Millennium standard cast cylinders.
The standard cast cylinder has a through hardened cylinder barrel.
The
XP 360 engine is also available with Superior Millennium Investment
cast cylinder's for an additional $1200.00.
The TMX engine uses the ECI Nickel Carbide cylinder as the standardly
supplied unit. The TMX engine is also available with Millennium
standard cast cylinders at no additional charge. The TMX engine can
be
supplied with Superior Millennium Investment cast or Textron Lycoming
cylinders at an additional charge.
The track record of all of the above cylinders is very good. They all
have different key benefits. The Nickel Carbide bores, on the ECI
cylinder, have the best wear rates and can't rust. Superior's through
hardened barrel comes in a close second on wear and is better that
Lycoming Nitrided barrel as far as rust goes. The Superior Millennium
Investment cast cylinder offers the best protection from cylinder
head
cracking, especially and most notably in the very high hours of use,
normally in the second TBO run of 2500 hours plus. The ECI Nickel
Carbide cylinders , the Superior Standard cast cylinder and the
Lycoming cylinder all use sand cast cylinder heads. These heads are
not as resilient to head cracking as the investment cast heads but
normally will go at least one TBO run of 2000 hours or more without
major cracking.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
--- In XP-360Forum@yahoogroups.com, " " <lensdesign@l...> wrote:
>
> What cylinders are generally used on the 2 engines? Does either
use
> the ECI Nickel+Carbide cylinders, and what has been the service
> record of those cylinders?
>
> Thanks.
--- End forwarded message ---
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: aileron travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Danny,
Check the rivets on the outboard end of the rear spar. It seems to me that
one of them caused some slight rubbing on mine. Notice that a flush rivet is
called for on the bottom one.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Fininshed and flying in N-Central Indiana.
> I just finnished up the wings and was checking out
> >motion ect.. and wanted to ask , any of you others
> >I was moving the alierons back and forth and it
> >seemslike its kinda binding ever so slightly on the
> >skin are those suppose to be rubbing?> it will go
> >past the point but its rubbing although
> >nothing is scratching the alieron skins it seems too tight
> >of tolarence whats the story on that.. once it
> >breaks over past on the down swing its very hard to pull
> >back up through the tight spot.. any idea? solutions ?
> >what is the degree of movement needed I got a message about
> >15 to 17 degree's the problem is when it goes fully up past
> >the skin at the gap flairing..
> >
> > Danny
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
Dave,
Like you I explored most of the alternatives. I ended up buying a TXM-360.
As long as they are built properly all of these O-360 lookalikes should be
nearly identical. I like the Mattituk's price and I trust Mahlon . . . and
there is a huge company behind him.
I don't have mine yet . . . still about a month off.
Regards,
Bob Christensen
RV-8 Bldr - SE Iowa
----- Original Message -----
From: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
Subject: RV-List: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360
> --> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>
> Listers
> Any thoughts on the difference between the Superior XP-360 and the
Mattituck TMX-360. The TMX is $1000 less and closer to my home (less
shipping cost).I know lots of people like AeroSport but they are a long way
away from Florida. Also, Superior will be increasing price as of Jan. 1st.
Or is ECI a better or cheaper way to go. I don't know who distributes the
ECI engine.There web site only indicates parts available.
> Thanks
> Dave Cook
> Looking for Windmill for RV-6
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: aileron travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
This has been brought up before. When moving the aileron by hand there is
what feels like some sort of drag/binding in the last inch of
movement.....I think only in the up position. It is at the extreme part of
travel and may not be there if you have minimal aileron travel set up. I
have max aileron travel set up and can feel this on both ailerons equally.
When moving the aileron with the stick everything is smooth. I have been
told this is normal.
At 01:05 PM 12/15/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>Danny,
>
>Check the rivets on the outboard end of the rear spar. It seems to me that
>one of them caused some slight rubbing on mine. Notice that a flush rivet is
>called for on the bottom one.
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A
>Fininshed and flying in N-Central Indiana.
>
> > I just finnished up the wings and was checking out
> > >motion ect.. and wanted to ask , any of you others
> > >I was moving the alierons back and forth and it
> > >seemslike its kinda binding ever so slightly on the
> > >skin are those suppose to be rubbing?> it will go
> > >past the point but its rubbing although
> > >nothing is scratching the alieron skins it seems too tight
> > >of tolarence whats the story on that.. once it
> > >breaks over past on the down swing its very hard to pull
> > >back up through the tight spot.. any idea? solutions ?
> > >what is the degree of movement needed I got a message about
> > >15 to 17 degree's the problem is when it goes fully up past
> > >the skin at the gap flairing..
> > >
> > > Danny
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 19
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|
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=1E4K2liA4tGmxm+EAd/UevmrkDf7y2aP4Qd6QQPDXpDLnzuWp4vhXsvn7LBaB0HZJoQlGsSQVxjS9L4+RhYiPDKy1CHK+CQWvLqBqBUU4UesDtFhHnZFRpTIKfRrI4kM7hjA7If9v8Uy/y5p+22jQDi06uM8mLCfvZO/7UOMQFQ=
;
| Subject: | Rv-list used GPS |
--> RV-List message posted by: Weasel Graber <rv4flyboy@yahoo.com>
Would any of you out there happen to have a good used
Garmin GNC 300xl or a GX 60. Do not archive
--- owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
<mchriste@danvilletelco.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob
Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
>
> Dave,
>
> Like you I explored most of the alternatives. I
ended up buying a TXM-360.
> As long as they are built properly all of these
O-360 lookalikes should be
> nearly identical. I like the Mattituk's price and I
trust Mahlon . . . and
> there is a huge company behind him.
>
> I don't have mine yet . . . still about a month off.
>
> Regards,
> Bob Christensen
> RV-8 Bldr - SE Iowa
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
> To: "RV-List" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck
TMX-360
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "davercook"
<davercook@prodigy.net>
> >
> > Listers
> > Any thoughts on the difference between the
Superior XP-360 and the
> Mattituck TMX-360. The TMX is $1000 less and closer
to my home (less
> shipping cost).I know lots of people like AeroSport
but they are a long way
> away from Florida. Also, Superior will be increasing
price as of Jan. 1st.
> Or is ECI a better or cheaper way to go. I don't
know who distributes the
> ECI engine.There web site only indicates parts
available.
> > Thanks
> > Dave Cook
> > Looking for Windmill for RV-6
> >
> >
>
>
>
Contributions
any other
Forums.
>
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv-list
http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv-list
http://www.matronics.com/archives
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
http://www.matronics.com/rv-list
http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Message 20
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| Subject: | Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" <vitez@carolina.rr.com>
Dave,
Here's Mahlon's response to basically the same question I asked the other
day:
Quote:
There are differences between the Lycoming engine, the TMX engine and
the XP engine.
The three engines are all parallel valve O-360/ IO-360 180 HP engines.
On the outside, they all have the same footprint and other than paint
scheme, you would be hard pressed to see the difference between them.
Internally there are some differences in features between each of them
and an O/IO-360 engine, from Lycoming or that Vans sells.
I will compare them to a Lycoming, using it as the constant, and
showing what is different between the two engines and a Lycoming to
show the differences between the three. In some cases, the features
may be offered in both the TMX and XP but not in the Lycoming.
If the feature isn't listed, then you can assume the three are
basically the same with regard to each other.
The TMX engine differs from a standard Lycoming Engine by including
the following features internally:
Dynamically balanced VAR crankshaft for engine smoothness and durability.
Static bay balance to within 2 grams for engine smoothness and durability.
O ringed thru both passages in the crankcase to prevent the common
thru bolt oil leaks that occur later in the engines life.
Camshaft bearing bore, oil pressure relief notches machined in the
crankcase to prevent the common Lycoming backbone oil leak, later in
the engine's life.
Nickel Carbide Cylinder bores for rust protection, durability and
outstanding oil consumption rates.
Pressure spray camshaft lobe and tappet face lubrication provided from
dedicated oil nozzles, to help prevent camshaft lobe spalling issues
common to Lycoming style engines.
Solid crankshaft nose bore design on fixed pitch models for added
strength and removal of some RPM restrictions associated with hollow
crankshaft engine models and some fixed pitch propellers.
Universal, installer calibrated dipstick, for exact custom oil
quantity indications regardless of aircraft or application.
Easy access oil filter adapter for cleaner and easier oil filter changes.
Positive crankshaft front thrust lubrication to help prevent
crankshaft front thrust/crankcase pick up and galling.
1 year parts and labor warranty on the complete engine and accessory.
2 Years on the cylinders.
The XP-360 differs from a standard Lycoming engine by including the
following features:
Balanced oil pressure passages in the crankcase to remove minor oil
pressure variations found between various points within the engine.
Pressure crankshaft front thrust lubrication to help prevent
crankshaft front thrust/crankcase pick up and galling.
Increased strength crankcase web to help prevent web cracks in the
crankcase.
Dynamically balanced VAR crankshaft for engine smoothness and durability.
Static bay balance to increase engine smoothness and durability.
Superior designed camshaft lobe profile to reduce valve train loads to
help with cam lobe spalling and improve economy.
Tri metal main and rod bearings for better bearing wear.
1year parts and labor warranty.
That is the difference between the three of them. I know it is likely
difficult for you to understand all of the changes between them,
please feel free to contact me if you need a more comprehensive
explanation of all of the differences.
The XP360 engine is an excellent engine and we would be happy to
assemble, test and supply one to you! I would be confident to fly
behind one. The warranty on an XP engine is controlled and
administered by Superior Air Parts not Mattituck.
The TMX engine is also an excellent product, it is more customizable
that the XP engine. Obviously, I would fly behind one of them too. I
can quote pricing using 100 percent Superior parts, partial superior
parts or our normally supplied parts. We can incorporate and supply an
engine that has all of the features of both the XP and the TMX if you
want to go that way. In most cases, it does affect the price of the
engine when we vary from our standardly supplied engine but not
always. Examples are that if you wanted Millennium cylinders on the
TMX engine, the price of the engine stays the same. However, if you
wanted a TMX engine with all Superior Parts but that incorporated all
or most of the TMX engine features as well as the Superior features it
currently adds approximately $1300.00 to the standard TMX pricing. The
TMX engine warranty is administered and controlled by Mattituck.
If you compare the stock XP360 and the stock TMX engine you need to
decide which features are the most important to you and or which
features accomplish the same results in a better fashion and what that
all costs you. Then you will have the solution to the problem of which
one to buy.
The pricing of the TMX basic engines is as follows, there are many
options and configurations also available anb they can be quoted on a
individual basis:
TMX O-360 for fixed Pitch is currently priced at
$17,990.00
TMX O-360 for constant speed is currently priced at
$18,490.00
TMX IO-360 for Fixed Pitch is currently priced at
$19,590.00
TMX IO-360 for constant speed is currently priced at
$20,190.00
TMX IO-360 for fixed pitch speed with forward facing sump
$21,790.00
TMX IO-360 for fixed pitch speed with forward facing sump
$22,390.00
We would love to supply your engine regardless of which way you want
to go! TMX or XP we can service your needs either way.
Good Luck,
Mahlon
Message 21
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| Subject: | Lubricating my pneum squeezer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
I am about 80% through the empennage and have noticed that my squeezer is starting
to have a little trouble setting the larger -4 rivets. I am unsure whether
this is due to the fact that I have not been putting any air tool oil in it.
I remember reading on one of these posts that I should not be lubing squeezers
with air tool oil because of some internal structure that could degrade with
oil. Is this wrong? Is there anything I can do to occasionally clean and lube
this thing....oh by the way, it is a rebuilt 214 squeezer from the Yardstore.
Thanks,
Will #91056
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: aileron travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
Scott,
If your referring to the 6 model then what your feeling is the
bellcrank/aileron pushrod going just over-center when the aileron is in
full down position. Next time you have your inspection plate off take a
look at the geometry and you'll see what I mean. When you push the
aileron up by hand your working against this slight over-center
condition. You won't feel this in the stick because the geometry of the
stick's pushrod is almost 90 degrees to the bellcrank when this occurs.
Check it out next annual.
Gary
Scott Bilinski wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> This has been brought up before. When moving the aileron by hand there is
> what feels like some sort of drag/binding in the last inch of
> movement.....I think only in the up position. It is at the extreme part of
> travel and may not be there if you have minimal aileron travel set up. I
> have max aileron travel set up and can feel this on both ailerons equally.
> When moving the aileron with the stick everything is smooth. I have been
> told this is normal.
>
>
> At 01:05 PM 12/15/2004 -0500, you wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>>
>>Danny,
>>
>>Check the rivets on the outboard end of the rear spar. It seems to me that
>>one of them caused some slight rubbing on mine. Notice that a flush rivet is
>>called for on the bottom one.
>>
>>Dan Hopper
>>RV-7A
>>Fininshed and flying in N-Central Indiana.
>>
>>
>>>I just finnished up the wings and was checking out
>>>
>>>>motion ect.. and wanted to ask , any of you others
>>>>I was moving the alierons back and forth and it
>>>>seemslike its kinda binding ever so slightly on the
>>>>skin are those suppose to be rubbing?> it will go
>>>>past the point but its rubbing although
>>>>nothing is scratching the alieron skins it seems too tight
>>>>of tolarence whats the story on that.. once it
>>>>breaks over past on the down swing its very hard to pull
>>>>back up through the tight spot.. any idea? solutions ?
>>>>what is the degree of movement needed I got a message about
>>>>15 to 17 degree's the problem is when it goes fully up past
>>>>the skin at the gap flairing..
>>>>
>>>> Danny
>>
>>
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
Don't keep us in suspense, Radomir - get his quotes on the XP engines, too, and
post them for us!
-Stormy
do not archive
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
The only problem I've seen/heard of for "hard to squeeze" is if you have too
little gap between dies (starts squeezing the rivet before the plunger and
cam inside have moved enough to get good leverage to squeeze. Squeezer
develops most "oomph" in last bit of travel.
As far as lub, I occasionally put white grease on cam and bottom of plunger
that rides on it; and put 2 drops of Marvel Mystery Oil (or oil of your
choice) in air line fitting just like the air drill every once in a while.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lubricating my pneum squeezer?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
>
> I am about 80% through the empennage and have noticed that my squeezer is
starting to have a little trouble setting the larger -4 rivets. I am unsure
whether this is due to the fact that I have not been putting any air tool
oil in it. I remember reading on one of these posts that I should not be
lubing squeezers with air tool oil because of some internal structure that
could degrade with oil. Is this wrong? Is there anything I can do to
occasionally clean and lube this thing....oh by the way, it is a rebuilt 214
squeezer from the Yardstore.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Will #91056
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
I heard through the grapevine that you should not oil the squeezer in
the air line as the oil will break down the leather seal. Lubriplate on
the cam and and plunger is good practice.
The only time I have had problems squeezing rivets were operator error.
Too much beer, dies adjusted to short/long, not enough air pressure
(forgot to turn compressor on) etc...
Gary
David Carter wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> The only problem I've seen/heard of for "hard to squeeze" is if you have too
> little gap between dies (starts squeezing the rivet before the plunger and
> cam inside have moved enough to get good leverage to squeeze. Squeezer
> develops most "oomph" in last bit of travel.
>
> As far as lub, I occasionally put white grease on cam and bottom of plunger
> that rides on it; and put 2 drops of Marvel Mystery Oil (or oil of your
> choice) in air line fitting just like the air drill every once in a while.
>
> David
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Lubricating my pneum squeezer?
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
>>
>>I am about 80% through the empennage and have noticed that my squeezer is
>
> starting to have a little trouble setting the larger -4 rivets. I am unsure
> whether this is due to the fact that I have not been putting any air tool
> oil in it. I remember reading on one of these posts that I should not be
> lubing squeezers with air tool oil because of some internal structure that
> could degrade with oil. Is this wrong? Is there anything I can do to
> occasionally clean and lube this thing....oh by the way, it is a rebuilt 214
> squeezer from the Yardstore.
>
>>Thanks,
>>
>>Will #91056
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
It's more likely because the squeezer doesn't achieve full strength until
the last 1/16" of its travel. With some longer rivets the squeezer doesn't
get to the last 1/16" travel because it can't produce enough power in the
earlier part of it's travel. In such cases I make it a 2 part process and
at first only partially squeeze all the rivets and then adjust the squeezer
to set the rivet properly and finish the job on the second pass.
My instructions that came with my Avery squeezer also said not to put oil in
the air line.
Greg
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
>
> I am about 80% through the empennage and have noticed that my squeezer is
starting to have a little trouble setting the larger -4 rivets. I am unsure
whether this is due to the fact that I have not been putting any air tool
oil in it. I remember reading on one of these posts that I should not be
lubing squeezers with air tool oil because of some internal structure that
could degrade with oil. Is this wrong? Is there anything I can do to
occasionally clean and lube this thing....oh by the way, it is a rebuilt 214
squeezer from the Yardstore.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Will #91056
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: aileron travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I have the 8 model. That feeling has been there for the past 236 hrs and
has not changed. None of the aileron linkage is touching anything through
its entire motion on either side. I have also checked other 8's and they
feel the same way.
At 12:49 PM 12/15/2004 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
>
>Scott,
>
>If your referring to the 6 model then what your feeling is the
>bellcrank/aileron pushrod going just over-center when the aileron is in
>full down position. Next time you have your inspection plate off take a
>look at the geometry and you'll see what I mean. When you push the
>aileron up by hand your working against this slight over-center
>condition. You won't feel this in the stick because the geometry of the
>stick's pushrod is almost 90 degrees to the bellcrank when this occurs.
>Check it out next annual.
>
>Gary
>
>Scott Bilinski wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
> <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> >
> > This has been brought up before. When moving the aileron by hand there is
> > what feels like some sort of drag/binding in the last inch of
> > movement.....I think only in the up position. It is at the extreme part of
> > travel and may not be there if you have minimal aileron travel set up. I
> > have max aileron travel set up and can feel this on both ailerons equally.
> > When moving the aileron with the stick everything is smooth. I have been
> > told this is normal.
> >
> >
> > At 01:05 PM 12/15/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
> >>
> >>Danny,
> >>
> >>Check the rivets on the outboard end of the rear spar. It seems to me that
> >>one of them caused some slight rubbing on mine. Notice that a flush
> rivet is
> >>called for on the bottom one.
> >>
> >>Dan Hopper
> >>RV-7A
> >>Fininshed and flying in N-Central Indiana.
> >>
> >>
> >>>I just finnished up the wings and was checking out
> >>>
> >>>>motion ect.. and wanted to ask , any of you others
> >>>>I was moving the alierons back and forth and it
> >>>>seemslike its kinda binding ever so slightly on the
> >>>>skin are those suppose to be rubbing?> it will go
> >>>>past the point but its rubbing although
> >>>>nothing is scratching the alieron skins it seems too tight
> >>>>of tolarence whats the story on that.. once it
> >>>>breaks over past on the down swing its very hard to pull
> >>>>back up through the tight spot.. any idea? solutions ?
> >>>>what is the degree of movement needed I got a message about
> >>>>15 to 17 degree's the problem is when it goes fully up past
> >>>>the skin at the gap flairing..
> >>>>
> >>>> Danny
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> > Scott Bilinski
> > Eng dept 305
> > Phone (858) 657-2536
> > Pager (858) 502-5190
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jamie Painter" <jdpainter@jpainter.org>
Will:
> I am about 80% through the empennage and have noticed that my squeezer is
> starting to have a little trouble setting the larger -4 rivets. I am unsure
> whether this is due to the fact that I have not been putting any air tool oil
> in it. I remember reading on one of these posts that I should not be lubing
> squeezers with air tool oil because of some internal structure that could
> degrade with oil. Is this wrong? Is there anything I can do to occasionally
> clean and lube this thing....oh by the way, it is a rebuilt 214 squeezer from
> the Yardstore.
I don't know about your squeezer, but I can tell you that with mine there
seems to be a particular point in the movement of the set holder where maximum
force is applied -- the work output of the squeezer is not linear. In other
words, if my squeezer is not budging the rivet at all, I'll adjust the set
holder a little one way or the other, try again and the rivet will begin to
set. You'll notice this especially if you use one of the long flat sets for
reaching over or under flanges. I have set a couple of rivets with my
squeezer where it was necessary to get the rivet to start squeezing, adjust
the holder 'out' a little more, then squeeze the rivet the rest of the way.
Oh yeah...I *always* use my squeezer at 90PSI.
As for the lubrication question....I hope you heard wrong! ;-)
Hope That Helps,
Jamie
--
Jamie D. Painter
RV-7A wings (tanks done!!!) N622JP (reserved)
http://rv.jpainter.org
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I considered both. XP-360 is great. I went with the TMX however. I spent
two days at Mattituck watching them put my engine together. I have to
report they know what they are doing. Time well spent watching Dan at
Mattituck who has been putting Lycoming's together for 25 years. He has all
the tools and knows how to use them. And a nice guy. After seeing the
double checking and rechecking they go through, I feel very comfortable with
my decision. All parts are FAA PMA certified and NEW. And, I saved money
that can be spent for fuel or whatever -- It is Christmas time! and I need
to get something nice for my wife. Moving to airport this weekend. Hope
to start it up in a few weeks.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
----- Original Message ----- >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
> >
> > Listers
> > Any thoughts on the difference between the Superior XP-360 and the
> Mattituck TMX-360. The TMX is $1000 less and closer to my home (less
> shipping cost).I know lots of people like AeroSport but they are a long
way
> away from Florida. Also, Superior will be increasing price as of Jan. 1st.
> Or is ECI a better or cheaper way to go. I don't know who distributes the
> ECI engine.There web site only indicates parts available.
> > Thanks
> > Dave Cook
> > Looking for Windmill for RV-6
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re:Prop Extension |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rolf Unternaehrer" <rolf@microsource-inc.com>
Thanks to those of you who e-mailed, you know who you are!
I did connact Vans, and got a a response from Gus. (I had asked him for
specs as well)
Quote:
"The prop extensions are supposed to be a tight fit, you don't want
any play there at all, so it is usual to draw it down over the lugs as
the bolts are tightened. It won't just slip over them and it is hard to
remove once it is on.
We don't specify the size of the holes, that is determined by the
manufacturer, so you would need to contact them to know if they
are undersize. We don't have the manufacturing spec.
Saber Manufacturing (TX) 817-326-6293
Vans"
End Quote
So... I installed the extension, in front of the "flywheel", using 3
hardware store bolts to pull it in place.
The torque required was actually light... only about 50 - 60 in-lbs to get
the extension to move. Found this interesting program on the web called
TORKsense, which is capable of of calculating nearly everything there is,
whith regard to bolts!
I back calculated the FORCE which resulted from the 50-60 in-lbs of torque
and got 500-600 lbs of force. Well, that is the high end of a "transition"
fit, and the low end of an "Interferance" Fit. Perhapse an H6-k6 or H7-n6
for you Mech. Engr. types. Figured there might be some inquiring minds out
there that just needed to know this!
Rolf (RV6 starting to fit cowl...)
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
Thanks for all the information received on the options for engines. I think
I may go with the TMX -360 It seems to fit my needs and no price increase in
the near term. The XP-360 will be going up Jan.1st. according to e-mail from
Bill Peterson.
Dave Cook
----- Original Message -----
From: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
Subject: RV-List: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360
> --> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>
> Listers
> Any thoughts on the difference between the Superior XP-360 and the
Mattituck TMX-360. The TMX is $1000 less and closer to my home (less
shipping cost).I know lots of people like AeroSport but they are a long way
away from Florida. Also, Superior will be increasing price as of Jan. 1st.
Or is ECI a better or cheaper way to go. I don't know who distributes the
ECI engine.There web site only indicates parts available.
> Thanks
> Dave Cook
> Looking for Windmill for RV-6
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Radomir Zaric" <vitez@carolina.rr.com>
Hey Stormy,
Good to see ya' on Sunday. Stanton's is always fun.
Superior is increasing prices on their XP-360's to:
The new XP-360, 1 year warranty pricing is as follows:
IO-360-A1A2 21,700.00 Vertical sump
IO-360-B1A2 22,400.00 "
IO-360-A1AA2 22,700.00 Horizontal sump
IO-360-B1AA2 23,400.00 "
O-360-A1A2 20,500.00 Vertical sump
O-360-B1A2 21,200.00 "
Add 1000.00 for 3 year warranty
XP-360 Plus Roller cam engine, 3 year warranty:
IO-360-A5A2 24,850.00 Vertical sump
IO-360-B5A2 25,550.00 "
IO-360-A5AA2 25,850.00 Horizontal sump
IO-360-B5AA2 26,550.00 "
O-360-A5A2 23,650.00 Vertical sump
O-360-B5A2 24,350.00 "
Prices take effect for engines ordered after 12-31-2004.
And as a "refresher" TMX prices are:
TMX O-360 for fixed Pitch is currently priced at
$17,990.00
TMX O-360 for constant speed is currently priced at
$18,490.00
TMX IO-360 for Fixed Pitch is currently priced at
$19,590.00
TMX IO-360 for constant speed is currently priced at
$20,190.00
TMX IO-360 for fixed pitch speed with forward facing sump
$21,790.00
TMX IO-360 for fixed pitch speed with forward facing sump
$22,390.00
Message 33
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| Subject: | Lubricating my pneum squeezer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Speed 3 Guy" <speed3guy@comcast.net>
William,
I bought my rebuilt squeezer from Clear Air. Here's what they said in the
documentation: "The air cylinder on a pneumatic squeezer has a leather
piston and is packed with special grease. Oiling the cylinder will wash
away the grease and allow the leather piston to rub directly against the
aluminum cylinder wall. This will cause excessive wear in a relatively
short period of time."
I had a hard time convincing myself to believe that, but I suppose it makes
sense.
Guy
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
I am about 80% through the empennage and have noticed that my squeezer is
starting to have a little trouble setting the larger -4 rivets. I am unsure
whether this is due to the fact that I have not been putting any air tool
oil in it. I remember reading on one of these posts that I should not be
lubing squeezers with air tool oil because of some internal structure that
could degrade with oil. Is this wrong?
Message 34
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| Subject: | Mitchell Tach for Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "lui" <8418signco@ev1.net>
For sale:
2-1/4 MECHANICAL TACH WITH HOURMETER
Non lighted, use standard tachometer shaft and housing. Manufactured by Mitchell
Instrument. Now TSO'd. Driven from tach cable. New, never used or installed.
$180 + shipp. Contact Luis @ 8418signco@ev1.net . First come.
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Lubricating my pneum squeezer? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Fred Kunkel" <rvator@socal.rr.com>
It's a fact - the light oil will wash away the grease. The grease is
specifically designed for the interaction of the leather piston and the
aluminum body of the tool. The grease is also highly water resistant to
account for condensation in the air lines.
As someone else posted, use a good quality grease from time to time on the
bottom of the cam, the bottom of the set holder, and the body of the set
holder itself. Doesn't have to be a lot, just enough to lubricate the set
holder's passage through the base of the yoke and to help overcome the
friction between the set holder and the cam.
By the way, if anyone's in the market for a pneumatic squeezer and/or yokes,
we've got a number of different specials running on the web site.
We hope all of you, and yours, have a safe and happy Holiday Season!
Blue Skies!
Fred W. Kunkel
CLEAR AIR
www.clearairtools.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Speed 3 Guy" <speed3guy@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Lubricating my pneum squeezer?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Speed 3 Guy" <speed3guy@comcast.net>
>
>
> William,
>
> I bought my rebuilt squeezer from Clear Air. Here's what they said in the
> documentation: "The air cylinder on a pneumatic squeezer has a leather
> piston and is packed with special grease. Oiling the cylinder will wash
> away the grease and allow the leather piston to rub directly against the
> aluminum cylinder wall. This will cause excessive wear in a relatively
> short period of time."
>
> I had a hard time convincing myself to believe that, but I suppose it
> makes
> sense.
>
> Guy
>
>
>
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