Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:45 AM - Re: Alternator mounting problem ()
2. 04:39 AM - Re: aileron travel (Dan Checkoway)
3. 06:14 AM - Re: Alternator mounting problem (jacklockamy)
4. 06:35 AM - Re: Alternator mounting problem (Alex Peterson)
5. 07:49 AM - Re: Alternator mounting problem (Sam Buchanan)
6. 08:55 AM - Re: Alternator mounting problem (Edward Cole)
7. 08:56 AM - Re: aileron travel (Ross S)
8. 09:03 AM - Alternator Pulley for sale... (Bluecavu@aol.com)
9. 09:04 AM - Starting the Quickbuild Fuselage today~ (sportpilot)
10. 09:06 AM - Engine builder feedback ()
11. 09:37 AM - Re: Starting the Quickbuild Fuselage today~ (Steve Struyk)
12. 09:48 AM - Re: Alternator mounting problem (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
13. 10:19 AM - Re: E-Mag (Douglas A. Fischer)
14. 03:10 PM - Windshield to Canopy joint (JTAnon@aol.com)
15. 04:37 PM - Re: Alternator mounting problem (Larry Bowen)
16. 05:07 PM - Re: Windshield to Canopy joint (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 06:08 PM - Re: aileron travel (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
18. 06:27 PM - Re: Windshield to Canopy joint (james frierson)
19. 06:58 PM - Re: IFR EFIS ()
20. 07:36 PM - Re: aileron travel (Kyle Boatright)
21. 07:55 PM - Re: Windshield to Canopy joint (Jim Oke)
22. 07:55 PM - Re: Re: IFR EFIS (Doug Rozendaal)
23. 08:44 PM - Re: Windshield to Canopy joint (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
24. 09:03 PM - Re: Re: IFR EFIS (Stein Bruch)
25. 09:25 PM - installing fire sleeve - basic question (thomas a. sargent)
26. 09:54 PM - Re: Tail Wheel wear (H.Ivan Haecker)
27. 11:18 PM - Re: installing fire sleeve - basic question (Mike Robertson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> Its not that you really need 60 amperes. Its just that the 35 amp
alternator
> is junk IMHO. The fan has been deleted from the 35 amp alternator making
it
> able to destroy itself if, say, you let the battery get discharged and
then
> fly the plane. I have had no trouble with the 60 amp from Vans. I prefer
that
> alternator with its "safety factor."
>
> Flail away!
>
It's OK for Dan to want that extra margin of safety; but, let me say that I
don't consider my 35 amp alternator from Van's to be junk. It's worked
pretty well, actually. Granted, I don't overload it by turning everything
on at once very much; but, I have had everything on and have not had it
fail, yet. I plan on using another 35 amp unit in my new -7A because it
works for me. Others may need that margin of safety that Dan feels more
comfortable with. In that case, use the 60 amp unit. If one is worried
about the missing fan, just install a blast tube to keep things a bit
cooler.
BTW, my Cheetah had a 35 amp unit that was still running strong after a
thousand hours of use. That was one reason I picked Van's 35 amp unit. My
RV is set up pretty much like what I had in the Cheetah. My -7A will be,
also. Well, I guess I may have some newer toys in the panel. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter, first flight on Dec. 19, 1999)
RV-7A #70317 (Building wings, inventorying fuselage)
EAA Tech. Counselor
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: aileron travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Mine are set to just slightly more travel than the minimum in the plans
and
> the stick will "shake" very lightly when rolled over to max (L or R) as
when
> doing an aileron roll. I assume this is the down aileron "stalling", but
I am
> still not comfortable enough during the roll to look at it (even if I
could see
> anything). Anyone know if this is what is really happening? If so, I'm
> wondering if making the travel greater would help much?
I always thought it was just the up-deflected aileron's leading edge
sticking out below the wing. What is normally an awesome design trait which
helps counteract adverse yaw in normal flight (why you're able to yank and
bank with your feet on the floor) is what causes that turbulence at full
aileron deflection at high airspeeds.
Just my understanding, correct me if I'm wrong!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "jacklockamy" <jacklockamy@verizon.net>
I'm not ....."CONCERNED about having a perfect alternator....". I was hoping someone
who also used an "old conical mount engine" with a Van's 60 AMP alternator
kit could share with me how they got theirs to fit.
A call to Van's Tech Support line revealed Van's sells a separate bracket (not
included in the alternator kit) part no. VA-235-PC for $11.00 which bolts to the
case parting line bolts on cases without a 'boss' and places the pulleys on
the flywheel and alternator in alignment.
Maybe I phrased my original question incorrectly. Guess I should have asked if
a 60 AMP alternator would be suppling too much electricity for an old conical
mount engine.
Thanks to those who replied off-list to my post. I can see why others are hesitant
to use this list for the purpose it was designed for.... assisting others
rather than berate them. I'll slip back to the lurker mode and hope the List
Archives have the answer(s) to any future questions.
Jack Lockamy
Camarillo, CA
Message 4
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| Subject: | Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> Alex,
>
> Its not that you really need 60 amperes. Its just that the
> 35 amp alternator
> is junk IMHO. The fan has been deleted from the 35 amp
> alternator making it
> able to destroy itself if, say, you let the battery get
> discharged and then
> fly the plane. I have had no trouble with the 60 amp from
> Vans. I prefer that
> alternator with its "safety factor."
>
> Flail away!
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
> Flying since July
Has anyone on the list had a failure with a 40 amp Denso alternator, as
supplied by Aerosport Power or Niagara Air Parts? I specifically am talking
about an unmodified, internally regulated, stock unit. I have had no
trouble yet, and it fits quite well (the adjusting bracket needed to be cut
shorter).
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 561 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
sears@searnet.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
>
>
>>Its not that you really need 60 amperes. Its just that the 35 amp
>
> alternator
>
>>is junk IMHO. The fan has been deleted from the 35 amp alternator making
>
> it
>
>>able to destroy itself if, say, you let the battery get discharged and
>
> then
>
>>fly the plane. I have had no trouble with the 60 amp from Vans. I prefer
>
> that
>
>>alternator with its "safety factor."
>>
>>Flail away!
>>
>
>
> It's OK for Dan to want that extra margin of safety; but, let me say that I
> don't consider my 35 amp alternator from Van's to be junk. It's worked
> pretty well, actually. Granted, I don't overload it by turning everything
> on at once very much; but, I have had everything on and have not had it
> fail, yet. I plan on using another 35 amp unit in my new -7A because it
> works for me. Others may need that margin of safety that Dan feels more
> comfortable with. In that case, use the 60 amp unit. If one is worried
> about the missing fan, just install a blast tube to keep things a bit
> cooler.
Or......just buy the same 35 amp alternator *with* the fan (it'll fit
just fine) from your local discount auto parts emporium for less than
$50. The alternator is NipponDenso as used on 1976-1979 Honda Civic CVCC
without air conditioning. A common number you can find in Duralast and
other reman alternators is 14184. The Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100.
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Advance Auto Parts alternator)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole@comcast.net>
Niagra Airparts has a nice small 40 amp alternator kit which includes
all brackets For $225. I installed one on my last annual and am very
happy with it.
Take a look at their website.
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
sears@searnet.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator mounting problem
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> Its not that you really need 60 amperes. Its just that the 35 amp
alternator
> is junk IMHO. The fan has been deleted from the 35 amp alternator
making
it
> able to destroy itself if, say, you let the battery get discharged and
then
> fly the plane. I have had no trouble with the 60 amp from Vans. I
prefer
that
> alternator with its "safety factor."
>
> Flail away!
>
It's OK for Dan to want that extra margin of safety; but, let me say
that I
don't consider my 35 amp alternator from Van's to be junk. It's worked
pretty well, actually. Granted, I don't overload it by turning
everything
on at once very much; but, I have had everything on and have not had it
fail, yet. I plan on using another 35 amp unit in my new -7A because it
works for me. Others may need that margin of safety that Dan feels more
comfortable with. In that case, use the 60 amp unit. If one is worried
about the missing fan, just install a blast tube to keep things a bit
cooler.
BTW, my Cheetah had a 35 amp unit that was still running strong after a
thousand hours of use. That was one reason I picked Van's 35 amp unit.
My
RV is set up pretty much like what I had in the Cheetah. My -7A will
be,
also. Well, I guess I may have some newer toys in the panel. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter, first flight on Dec. 19, 1999)
RV-7A #70317 (Building wings, inventorying fuselage)
EAA Tech. Counselor
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: aileron travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Two things I had to adjust on mine:
1.) Make sure that the flap hinge pin is not sticking too far out into the
inboard aileron bracket. It it is too far out, the aileron push rod bracket
will hit it at max up travel and cause a springy feel, or if exactly the
wrong lenght, it could catch it and drag.
2.) Check the bottom rivet in the outer rear spar and make sure it isn't
rubbing on the leading edge of the aileron. Mine was!
Hope this helps,
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 Flying!!
Experimental Air
www.experimentalair.com
>From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron travel
>Date: Fri, 17 Dec 2004 14:04:01 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
><bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> From what I hear this is a classic RV trait.
>
>
>At 04:47 PM 12/17/2004 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> >
> >In a message dated 12/15/04 12:30:35 PM Central Standard Time,
> >bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com writes:
> >
> > > I have max aileron travel set up and can feel this on both ailerons
> > > equally.
> > >
> > >>>>
> >While we're discussing this....
> >
> >Mine are set to just slightly more travel than the minimum in the plans
>and
> >the stick will "shake" very lightly when rolled over to max (L or R) as
>when
> >doing an aileron roll. I assume this is the down aileron "stalling", but
> >I am
> >still not comfortable enough during the roll to look at it (even if I
> >could see
> >anything). Anyone know if this is what is really happening? If so, I'm
> >wondering if making the travel greater would help much?
> >
> > >From The PossumWorks in TN
> >Mark -6A 135 hours, do not archive
> >
> >
>
>
>Scott Bilinski
>Eng dept 305
>Phone (858) 657-2536
>Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Alternator Pulley for sale... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bluecavu@aol.com
Don't know if anyone is interested, but I have a brand new ACS 4" Billet
alternator pulley in anodized black... useful for slowing down alternator speed
if
you're uncomfortable running the small pulley (that gets used in an
automotive application) from your large ring gear.
Cheap -make me an offer. ACS no longer stocks this item it seems...
Scott
N4ZW
do not archive
Message 9
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| Subject: | Starting the Quickbuild Fuselage today~ |
--> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
I know the manual has very little section on the
fuselage and the plans cover the whole project, but does anyone
know of a website or list of build order for a
quickbuild fuse.. I kinda worked here and there on the
qb wings and had to go back and undo things but I
wanted to avoid this on the fuse section.. anyone have
a order of attack on the qb fuselage stuff.. ? or
could recommend a an order.. private email is ok.. sportypilot@stx.rr.com
Danny..
Message 10
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|
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=bPJyE5b4FUvNiF+TeSFRFT64LAmPe0JmE19E3T4R1xUuKkNLpl2IVciSPnOvrcNCFtv60/A1hGfIuAk4hkw9agwPx34E8BYSrvJkmxRVD3t6vZZVygZzXb2Gt4rxXinS/sAahbTTMZdNAueGm4fL5ozMxTo9nSKx/HEqRa+CItk=
;
| Subject: | Engine builder feedback |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
I called Eagle Engines in Redding Ca.
Their web site is http://www.eagleengines.com/Xtreem.htm
OR
http://www.eagleengines.com/Facilitengine.htm and click on XTREEM 360
There are great pictures of Randy Griffin's engine being built up at Eagle's shop
on his web pages below:
http://www.rv-8.com/RandyGriffin.htm#Engine
Randy gave them high marks.
I talked to Eagle (sorry don't recall his name, I think Tim?). The Gentleman I
talked to was very pleasant, he is an RV builder, knowledgeable, answered all
my questions with excellent info and advice. He is sending me an extensive info
pack and said someone would follow up in a few weeks to make sure I got it.
Eagle's flexibility is great. They will build your engine anyway you like, including
Hi-Comp pistons or what ever you want. (They are building an engine using
the P-Mag/E-Mag for a customer right now.)
The pictures on their web site, show a first class shop and operation; I really
like that they have a test stand/cell. They go through the trouble of mounting
a Hydraulic prop and governor for the 1.5 hour break-in on those engines using
them (vs a fixed test club). They feel this improves break-in. Eagle also
has a companion prop shop that looks like they also do excellent work including
custom finishes. (Hartzell Grey just won't do when you can have a Red, White
and Blue work of art on the fan ;-)
I was going to buy an engine parts kit and build it myself with an A&P/AI friend.
The deciding factor for NOT doing this and having it built-up by a shop is:
warranty, the shops experience and facilities and initial break-in on a stand.
The last item is very important to me. I like the idea of having time on the
engine at high power settings and checked throughly before flying it behind a
new airframe. However, there is money to be saved doing it yourself? The basic
ECI kit is around $13,500-$14,000 without accessories. Add another $2500-$3000,
so the savings my be only $2000 to $3500.
I also talked to Mattituck and like the fact they are also flexible would build
up an engine with a mix of ECI and Superior parts and also found them very knowledgeable.
I think they are also an excellent choice. They have been around
awhile.
Buying direct form Superior is less flexible and more expensive, especially if
you want to change anything from base line. They don't give much credit for Mag's
for example if you go with dual lightspeed ignitions.
I think any of the big shops, Aerosport, Mattituck, Eagle, America's Aircraft Engines
are going to be good, it is a matter of where you live. I don't know anything
about Penn Yann Aero and called Ly-con a while back for another engine
I needing overhaul, and I had difficulty getting a hold of them. A.E.R.O. aviation
only sells the ECI part kit and is not an engine shop. They may be a good
choice if you want to do the build-up yourself.
The prices between builders are similar, but the best way to go is spec your engine
out the way you want, including color, ignition and so on and get a quote.
Mattituck has enough info on the web site to price it out including options
and credits.
I don't think you can go wrong with an engine made up with new ECI or Superior
parts. I believe Mattituck prefers the ECI Nickel Carbide cylinders due to high
resistance to corrosion. This is a good quality to have with most low use private
sport planes.
---------------------------------
Send a seasonal email greeting and help others. Do good.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Starting the Quickbuild Fuselage today~ |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Danny,
I went through the same quandary when my QB came. I went into the slow build
section and checked off all the items that had already been accomplished by
the QB guys. I do remember marking my manual as "my starting point" but it's
at the hanger. I won't be there until Monday. If you have not received some
sort of guidance by then I let you know where my start point was when I get
back Monday.
Steve Struyk
St. Charles, MO
RV-8, N842S (res.)
Engine baffles
----- Original Message -----
From: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: Starting the Quickbuild Fuselage today~
> --> RV-List message posted by: "sportpilot" <sportypilot@stx.rr.com>
>
>
> I know the manual has very little section on the
> fuselage and the plans cover the whole project, but does anyone
> know of a website or list of build order for a
> quickbuild fuse.. I kinda worked here and there on the
> qb wings and had to go back and undo things but I
> wanted to avoid this on the fuse section.. anyone have
> a order of attack on the qb fuselage stuff.. ? or
> could recommend a an order.. private email is ok.. sportypilot@stx.rr.com
>
> Danny..
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
>
>
> Or......just buy the same 35 amp alternator *with* the fan (it'll fit
> just fine) from your local discount auto parts emporium for less than
> $50. The alternator is NipponDenso as used on 1976-1979 Honda Civic CVCC
> without air conditioning. A common number you can find in Duralast and
> other reman alternators is 14184. The Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Advance Auto Parts alternator)
I went to Autozone and bought a Duralast 14184 for about $60 with the fan like
Sam mentioned.. It fits perfectly and aligns up with the flywheel pulley
perfectly. It has a lifetime warranty. Bad thing is, a lot of Autozones
electrical stuff doesn't has long life spans, but they will exchange them
indefinitly if you want to keep changing them..
I originally bought Van's alternator kit with the 35 amp alternator. It was Dead
on arrival but I didnt find it out for three years since I had ordered it and
"shelfed" it. One of the diodes was broken inside. Poor Quality control back at
the rebuild shop. It also did not line up real well.
Funny thing, both of these were 14184 alternators, but there was a difference.
Van's was twice as much money and it was very poorly rebuilt. The Duralast looks
very nicely rebuilt for much less money. I am going to buy a spare and "shelf"
it
again........
just my oppinion
Phil, in Illinois
Message 13
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clamav-milter version 0.80j
on mail3.iserv.net
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
After reading the E-Mag web site, it appeared to me that the E-mag is a
straight replacement for a mag in that the timing is fixed and does not
advance or retard like an electronic ignition does. Am I mistaken? Even if
I'm not, the E-mag sounds better than a standard mag.
Doug Fischer
RV-9A Wings
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: E-Mag
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Well,
>
> as I have stated before, I'm concerned that they (E-Mag, as well as the
> other two systems) are not providing a CHT input to the varible timing
> equation. This is far more important than is MAP since MAP is not really a
> critical factor in a non-supercharged engine and can be roughly estimated,
> and in fact is by their non-MAP system. On the other hand CHT (the most
> critical limiting factor in a tightly cowled aircooled engine), is most
> easily and effectively controlled by timing, and in fact the only
certified
> FADEC units, TCM Aerosance and Unison LASAR, in fact do use CHT for just
> that purpose.
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Windshield to Canopy joint |
--> RV-List message posted by: JTAnon@aol.com
I'm in the final stages of fitting the windscreen and canopy on a RV7A slider
and I'm confused.=A0 Is this statement in the manual correct?
Page 9-12, paragraph 3 (Fitting THe Windscreen) in the manual regarding the
meeting point of the windscreen and canopy on a slider states, " ...the height
of the canopy frame is adjusted ... so the windscreen portion of the canopy=20is
even with, or slightly lower than the sliding portion of the canopy."
While I would like the juncture to be perfect and even, it's not.=A0 But I
don't understand why the windscreen would be=A0 lower .=A0 How does one make the
fairing work if the canopy is higher?=A0 Is the manual wrong or am I missing
something obvious.
John McDonnell (wants to fly by spring)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Niagara is also another option. They have a nice 40 amp alternator. More
expensive though. I went his route because it included the mounting
brackets & hardware. Autozone didn't have a mount for a Lycoming. :)
http://www.niagaraairparts.com/
-
Larry Bowen, 47.7 Hrs.
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Buchanan [mailto:sbuc@hiwaay.net]
> Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2004 10:49 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Alternator mounting problem
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> sears@searnet.com wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> >
> >
> >>Its not that you really need 60 amperes. Its just that the 35 amp
> >
> > alternator
> >
> >>is junk IMHO. The fan has been deleted from the 35 amp alternator
> >>making
> >
> > it
> >
> >>able to destroy itself if, say, you let the battery get
> discharged and
> >
> > then
> >
> >>fly the plane. I have had no trouble with the 60 amp from Vans. I
> >>prefer
> >
> > that
> >
> >>alternator with its "safety factor."
> >>
> >>Flail away!
> >>
> >
> >
> > It's OK for Dan to want that extra margin of safety; but,
> let me say
> > that I don't consider my 35 amp alternator from Van's to be junk.
> > It's worked pretty well, actually. Granted, I don't overload it by
> > turning everything on at once very much; but, I have had
> everything on
> > and have not had it fail, yet. I plan on using another 35
> amp unit in
> > my new -7A because it works for me. Others may need that margin of
> > safety that Dan feels more comfortable with. In that case,
> use the 60
> > amp unit. If one is worried about the missing fan, just install a
> > blast tube to keep things a bit cooler.
>
>
> Or......just buy the same 35 amp alternator *with* the fan
> (it'll fit just fine) from your local discount auto parts
> emporium for less than $50. The alternator is NipponDenso as
> used on 1976-1979 Honda Civic CVCC without air conditioning.
> A common number you can find in Duralast and other reman
> alternators is 14184. The Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Advance Auto Parts alternator)
>
>
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield to Canopy joint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
John,
There have been some good "instructions" made available for doing the slider.
Hopefully someone else on the list will point you to them more exactly than
I can. Otherwise, search the archives and elsewhere on the web. The RVator
had a good article also on the slider. The canopy is frustrating enough that
all that material is worthwhile reading before its too late.
BTW the new "24 Years of the RVator" from Builder's Bookstore (800-780-4115)
is a great reference for any RV builder. The canopy article is in there.
(There, Andy, is a plug for your generosity!)
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since July -- about 70 hours)
In a message dated 12/18/04 6:12:07 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
JTAnon@aol.com writes:
>
> While I would like the juncture to be perfect and even, it's not.=A0 But I
> don't understand why the windscreen would be=A0 lower .=A0 How does one make
> the
> fairing work if the canopy is higher?=A0 Is the manual wrong or am I missing
> something obvious.
>
> John McDonnell (wants to fly by spring)
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: aileron travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
I always thought it was just the up-deflected aileron's leading edge
sticking out below the wing.
>>>
OK now there's an idea- It would be pretty easy to check for turb on the top
of an aileron, but the bottom? Maybe a spycam somewhere to take a look at the
yarn on the bottom of the aileron? Verrrrrrrrry interesting......
Mark - do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield to Canopy joint |
--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
It's been a while since doing this on my -6A slider but I seem to remember
the instruction calling for washers to be put between the canopy and the
roll bar frame were the screws go thru to make the joint as even as
possible. You will later fill in the resulting gap with some type of filler.
I used epoxy resin with micro balloons mix to a paste like consistency to
fill in the gap on mine.
Scott Frierson
RV-6A flying
>From: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Windshield to Canopy joint
>Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 20:07:14 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
>John,
>
>There have been some good "instructions" made available for doing the
>slider.
> Hopefully someone else on the list will point you to them more exactly
>than
>I can. Otherwise, search the archives and elsewhere on the web. The
>RVator
>had a good article also on the slider. The canopy is frustrating enough
>that
>all that material is worthwhile reading before its too late.
>
>BTW the new "24 Years of the RVator" from Builder's Bookstore
>(800-780-4115)
>is a great reference for any RV builder. The canopy article is in there.
>(There, Andy, is a plug for your generosity!)
>
>Dan Hopper
>RV-7A
>N766DH (Flying since July -- about 70 hours)
>
>
>In a message dated 12/18/04 6:12:07 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
>JTAnon@aol.com writes:
>
> >
> > While I would like the juncture to be perfect and even, it's not.=A0 But
>I
> > don't understand why the windscreen would be=A0 lower .=A0 How does one
>make
> > the
> > fairing work if the canopy is higher?=A0 Is the manual wrong or am I
>missing
> > something obvious.
> >
> > John McDonnell (wants to fly by spring)
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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|
DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; q=dns; c=nofws;
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=Npf57YcNrjQXZd73V3I5m3G6hiv3bShNHFpRFNQ8jfanYwVRuwWoJn3d1oKgO5Ol0tttcZ+oK33fQkfL7XBOL/otiSKwf0wiXSB/oDs+YztFblkxQxYeQnP53s+pYdbzhs90t7bj9F8VrfgejgoCRDGHNy6lESMBH7mvumJf+B4=
;
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Flying on Needle-Ball-Airspeed as your only back-up, IFR in a RV is not easy. If
that is the plan you should practice doing partial panel (and often). Trying
to fly the T&C or T&B flopping around in IMC is a challenge and not fun. I did
it once in a RV and was surprised how poor the TC was for control in just a
little turbulence. The safety record of a GA aircraft in IMC after the AI fails
is poor. Also, an autopilot should be a must for flying IMC in a RV as others
have mentioned. The RV will build speed up very fast, if it gets away from you.
I worry more about the subtle instrument failure where its not obvious that its
cooked. If you don't have another AI (mechanical or electronic) to cross check,
you could put yourself into a bad place. Like I said the TC or T&B wags a
lot with just a little turbulence, making it a challenge to read much less cross
check.
The electric AI gyro makes a great backup, but at $4,000, the Mid-Continent backup
Attitude Indicator w/ internal battery is a bit pricey. Some may consider
a dual Dynon setup, which is great. However it somewhat defeats the idea of the
independent gyro platform, isolating you from any unknown Dynon/BMT/GRT electronic
quarks or failures. May be EFIS from two different company's for a Primary/Backup
AI. This may protect you somewhat from a common problem across a product
line. Any way you cut it it will be $$$$$.
I think all manufactures of "experimental" EFIS equip recommend they be used with
back-up instruments. They may be 100% reliable, but they are not completely
fail-safe or have extensive internal fault monitoring. The big iron has 3 of
everything and another 3 computers checking it. With all that, they still have
a standby electric "peanut" gyro. Hummm. We dont need this level of system redundancy,
but it is something to think about.
My RV-7 project is using a dynon, but do not intend on flying IFR with it at this
time. If I elected to have IFR capability today, I would use an electric powered
AI as backup. Aerobatic manuvers are hard on a mechanical gyro as I learned,
but you could temporarily remove it to do serious sky thrashing. My IFR
RV-4 went through a vacuum pump and the AI in 400 hours. I used it so little for
IFR I pulled it all out. Because of the extra money to add a backup, I will
go VFR for now.
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: aileron travel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
There was an article in the RV-ator several years ago where Van's modified
the profile of the aileron's nose. They theorized that the nose of the up
aileron was stalling, and causing the buffet. (Remember, the nose of the up
aileron is down, and projects into the airflow beneath the wing). They added
vortex generators to the aileron's nose, and maybe increased the radius as
well. This eliminated the aileron buffet at full deflection. For whatever
reason, they have not made any changes to the aileron designs in their kits.
Probably too much hassle for something that isn't a meaningful problem.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: aileron travel
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> I always thought it was just the up-deflected aileron's leading edge
> sticking out below the wing.
>>>>
>
> OK now there's an idea- It would be pretty easy to check for turb on the
> top
> of an aileron, but the bottom? Maybe a spycam somewhere to take a look at
> the
> yarn on the bottom of the aileron? Verrrrrrrrry interesting......
>
>
> Mark - do not archive
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield to Canopy joint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Hi John;
The situation with the windscreen - slider joint is that it falls on a
sloping portion of the canopy (sloping upwards from front to back). Also the
plans imply a small gap should exist at this point to cater to small
variations in fit and to allow the installation of some sort of compressible
sealing material to cut wind noise. The gap is eventually covered by a built
up fiberglass strip so it will not be visible from the outside of the
aircraft.
Anyway, to accommodate the slope and the gap, the forward lip of the slider
portion will have to end up above the aft lip of the canopy portion. To aid
in achieving this with a minimum of shimming of the plexiglas, the slider
tubes should be adjusted to end up a bit higher than the canopy bow tube
(they are different diameters as well, as I recall). At the end of the day,
the idea is to be able to lay a straightedge across the canopy gap and have
it fall as a tangent to the canopy at that point.
For shimming purposes, I used a bunch of thin plastic washers cut from an
ice cream bucket that were held in place by clecoes through the canopy
rivet/screw holes. This looked pretty ugly so I eventually used a "liquid
shim" method using a bead of bondo body filler between the plexi and the
tube(s). Canopy off, lay in the bondo, put canopy on to settle down on the
plastic shim washers, let bondo set, remove plexi, remove washers, add more
bondo, repeat, etc. The fit can be adjusted by sanding off filler or adding
a bit more as needed. As a bonus, the bondo can be used to give the tube a
sort of D cross-section vice a round shape which (subjectively) looks
better.
Eventually you fill, prime, paint, etc. to taste and then install the canopy
plexi.
A big caution, of course, is to do some trials with the filler on some scrap
plexi to make sure there is no unhappy reaction between the plexi and the
filler.
Another tip is to look around a local car restoration or parts place for
some trunk rubber sealing strip to use in the canopy gap. This stuff comes
in a variety of cross-sections and is just right in consistency to compress
a bit when locking the canopy closed to act as a seal.
That's how I did things on my -6A and the canopy drawings all said RV-7 on
them! See http://www.vansairforce.org/projects/okej/ for a few pictures
(scroll about 1/3 down for the canopy stuff).
Good luck and happy building.
Jim Oke
Winnipeg, MB
RV-6A C-GKGZ
----- Original Message -----
From: <JTAnon@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Windshield to Canopy joint
> --> RV-List message posted by: JTAnon@aol.com
>
> I'm in the final stages of fitting the windscreen and canopy on a RV7A
> slider
> and I'm confused.=A0 Is this statement in the manual correct?
>
> Page 9-12, paragraph 3 (Fitting THe Windscreen) in the manual regarding
> the
> meeting point of the windscreen and canopy on a slider states, " ...the
> height
> of the canopy frame is adjusted ... so the windscreen portion of the
> canopy=20is
> even with, or slightly lower than the sliding portion of the canopy."
>
> While I would like the juncture to be perfect and even, it's not.=A0 But I
> don't understand why the windscreen would be=A0 lower .=A0 How does one
> make the
> fairing work if the canopy is higher?=A0 Is the manual wrong or am I
> missing
> something obvious.
>
> John McDonnell (wants to fly by spring)
>
>
>
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Jim Younkin and the folks at Tru-Trak have another neat toy coming out at
SNF.
It is basically a Solid State Turn Coordinator with a horizon bar that is
driven by a solid state gyro and a rate of climb aneriod to yield pitch
information.
Jim Younkin told me about this device a couple years ago and it looks like
they are ready to ship it. This could be either a primary ADI or a backup
for a experimental EFIS.
My airplane will have one of these as soon as I can get one.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield to Canopy joint |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
John,
What makes that junction work is the slope of the two pieces of plexi. As
you start to open the canopy, the rear of the canopy raises on the track, while
the front goes about straight back as you start to open it. Because of the
slope, the fiberglass fairing attached to the windscreen is like a funnel for
the sliding half to fit into. This is how it clears even though the fiberglass
is laid up close to it. I put 2 layers of electrical tape and then a release
agent on the sliding part before the lay-up. That gave it more than enough
clearance.
Is this what you are wondering about?
As was posted earlier, you want to build the canopy bubble back to a
continuous shape with a gap between the two pieces. I shimmed mine with AN3 washers
-- both 1/16 and 1/32 thick as needed. The washers are hidden by the
fiberglass lay-up and the rubber seal.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A Slider
Flying about 70 hours now.
In a message dated 12/18/04 6:12:07 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
JTAnon@aol.com writes:
> While I would like the juncture to be perfect and even, it's not.=A0 But I
> don't understand why the windscreen would be=A0 lower .=A0 How does one make
> the
> fairing work if the canopy is higher?=A0 Is the manual wrong or am I missing
> something obvious.
>
> John McDonnell (wants to fly by spring)
>
>
Message 24
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I've gotten a peek at these new ADI's coming from Trutrak, and of course
I'll be selling them as soon as they start shipping. I can take orders for
them fairly soon, but they tell me they won't likely be shipping until Q2
'05. They'll be just like their pictorial pilot, but wil vertical guidance
as well, making it a quasi-ADI except solid state and probably more
reliable. Their current solid state T&B will run an hour on a simple 9 volt
battery!!
They aren't the most advanced digital looking things in the world, but if
it's coming from Younkin, you will know it's top notch and VERY reliable.
He's forgotten more about aircraft flight instruments than most people will
ever know.
It's just my opinion, but they will be well worth the money when they are
shipped. I've been selling a TON of the pictorial T&B's to guys that are
flying heavy IFR in a variety of aircraft and they are using them as
backups, and good ones at that.
FYI, Dynon's are now starting to show up in quite a few certified airplanes.
We've been selling quite a number of harnesses to people who've sucessfully
been able to install them in certified aircraft, not the least being an FAA
FSDO inspector himslef. I personally know of Dynon's installed in 172's,
182's, 210's, Bonanza's, Various Pipers, and a few twins. Also the T-28
crowd along with the YAK/CJ drivers are installing these things at a high
rate.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: IFR EFIS
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Jim Younkin and the folks at Tru-Trak have another neat toy coming out at
SNF.
It is basically a Solid State Turn Coordinator with a horizon bar that is
driven by a solid state gyro and a rate of climb aneriod to yield pitch
information.
Jim Younkin told me about this device a couple years ago and it looks like
they are ready to ship it. This could be either a primary ADI or a backup
for a experimental EFIS.
My airplane will have one of these as soon as I can get one.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | installing fire sleeve - basic question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
I have yet to make any oil or fuel hoses and haven't yet seen any
uninstalled firesleeve, so I'm starting from zero knowledge here.
Can some one please tell me what the order of operations is? Can
firesleeve be installed on a completed hose, that is one that has both
end fittings installed? Or do you have to slip it on after installing
the first fitting and then install the second end fitting?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent
RV-6A, firewall.
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tail Wheel wear |
--> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
Wheeler
My tailwheel measures 5.187" diameter after 1100 hrs. and since yours is
4.812", I still can't tell you when they should be considered worn out. But
at least I now know that mine isn't worn out yet! Thanks.
Ivan Haecker -4 1116 hrs S. Cen. TX]
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Subject: RV-List: Tail Wheel wear
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
> Ah Ha,
>
> I got you beat, I already measured mine.
>
> New its 5.875" diameter; mine, at 800 hours, is at 4.812"D which means I
> have worn off about 1/2".
>
> I wonder what the increase on tail wheel wieght is because of this? Less
> rubber but the CG is moved aft a tad due to the shift in attitude.
>
> I do agree, it does get hung up in tie down potholes a lot more.
>
> Hmmm, still don't know if its worn out yet?????
>
> W
>
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | installing fire sleeve - basic question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
om,
The firesleeve can fit over the end fitting but when it is sized properly it
is tight. If you make the lines first, or have them made, just be patient
and work the firesleeve over the fittings. Then dab a bit of high tenmp
silicone sealer on each and and secure them so that oil and dirt can't get
inside.
Mike Robertson
>From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: installing fire sleeve - basic question
>Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 22:24:56 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I have yet to make any oil or fuel hoses and haven't yet seen any
>uninstalled firesleeve, so I'm starting from zero knowledge here.
>
>Can some one please tell me what the order of operations is? Can
>firesleeve be installed on a completed hose, that is one that has both
>end fittings installed? Or do you have to slip it on after installing
>the first fitting and then install the second end fitting?
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Tom Sargent
>RV-6A, firewall.
>
>
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