Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:49 AM - Re: installing fire sleeve - basic question (Jim Jewell)
2. 01:54 AM - Re: installing fire sleeve - basic question (Jim Jewell)
3. 04:53 AM - Re: E-Mag (RVer273sb@aol.com)
4. 04:53 AM - Alternator mounting problem (Ron Schreck)
5. 05:13 AM - Re: Re: IFR EFIS (George Steube)
6. 06:03 AM - Re: E-Mag (Kelly Patterson)
7. 07:02 AM - Re: Alternator mounting problem (Sam Buchanan)
8. 08:52 AM - Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 (Douglas A. Fischer)
9. 09:40 AM - Insurance Question (Jim Bean)
10. 09:46 AM - Re: installing fire sleeve - basic question (Mark Burns)
11. 09:48 AM - Re: Insurance Question (Cory Emberson)
12. 10:54 AM - Re: Windshield to Canopy joint (HCRV6@aol.com)
13. 01:18 PM - Re: installing fire sleeve - basic question (linn walters)
14. 02:52 PM - Re: Insurance Question (Ross S)
15. 03:51 PM - Re: Insurance Question (DWENSING@aol.com)
16. 04:13 PM - Re: E-Mag ()
17. 04:36 PM - Re: Re: E-Mag (Jerry Calvert)
18. 05:05 PM - Mags Crossed (John Furey)
19. 05:24 PM - Re: Mags Crossed (Scott VanArtsdalen)
20. 05:35 PM - Re: Mags Crossed (linn walters)
21. 05:46 PM - Re: Re: E-Mag (Jim Jewell)
22. 06:04 PM - HR II for sale on Ebay Motors (Scott VanArtsdalen)
23. 06:09 PM - RV-8 for sale on Ebay Motors (Scott VanArtsdalen)
24. 06:50 PM - Re: Insurance Question (Dave Bristol)
25. 07:26 PM - Re: Insurance Question (Mike Robertson)
26. 07:36 PM - Re: Insurance Question (Charlie Kuss)
27. 07:39 PM - Re: Insurance Question clamav-milter version 0.80j on zoot.lafn.org (cgalley)
28. 07:41 PM - Apples to oranges (Wheeler North)
29. 07:47 PM - E-Mag (Wheeler North)
30. 07:55 PM - Tailwheel (Wheeler North)
31. 09:13 PM - Rocket Tailwheel Linkage (Mark Taylor)
32. 09:18 PM - O-320 HDAD For Sale (Paul Besing)
33. 09:46 PM - Re: Rocket Tailwheel Linkage (Andre Berthet)
34. 09:56 PM - Subject: Engines-List: Another O-290 for sale (Rob W M Shipley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: installing fire sleeve - basic question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Tom,
I couple of years ago I attended the EAA show at Arlington Washington. While
there I bought a "ClampTite" tool for making clamps out of stainless steel
tie wire. I believe I paid a show price of US. $20.00 at the time. Well
worth it!
Because the camping medium is tie wire the possible uses for this tool are
quite plentiful. Their brochure claims that "if you can get a wire around it
you can clamp it tight" So far they have proven to be right.
Using this tool for clamping firesleeve has worked out very well. It is hard
to describe the tool and the manner of its use but the clamps it makes are
very low profile and have no sharp edges to grab clothing or draw blood.
The fact that with just a small bit if practice the clamps it produces look
really nice is a bonus as well. With this tool you control the number of
times the wire surrounds the hose and how tight the wire clamp gets set. By
making double wrap clamps for the firesleeve there is no chance of having
the wire cut into and damage the firesleeve. How the clamp is secured after
setting up the clamp is unique, tidy and very secure.
Contact: http://198.63.56.18/pages/order.html Google clamptite and it's
there also
Camptite tools, Ray Silvey MFG. Co.
PO box 414 Shady Cove Or.97539
Direst Orders-800-962-2901
Tel.-(503) 826-4466
As for Using the RTV on the ends of the firesleeve, Yes by all means use it.
It is used to stop oils ,cleaning solvents and environmental contaminants
from creeping into the ends of the firesleeve.and damaging the otherwise
protected hose.
There is an actual industrial product that has been designed for that
purpose. I expect it is a liquid form of silicone?. I cannot offer a name or
contact info for supply source etc. Maybe ACS could find it. I had a small
container given to me and it soon set up into a hard rubber mass after
coming in contact with air. Very short shelf life!. don't by a large volume.
In use it does work better than the RTV.
The people who make the firesleeve most likely make the stuff. I have a
length of Parker Stratoflex firesleeve but found nothing tangible on the
web.
Carry on Hoser, {[;-)
>From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: installing fire sleeve - basic question
>Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 22:24:56 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I have yet to make any oil or fuel hoses and haven't yet seen any
>uninstalled firesleeve, so I'm starting from zero knowledge here.
>
>Can some one please tell me what the order of operations is? Can
>firesleeve be installed on a completed hose, that is one that has both
>end fittings installed? Or do you have to slip it on after installing
>the first fitting and then install the second end fitting?
>
>Thanks,
>--
>Tom Sargent
>RV-6A, firewall.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: installing fire sleeve - basic question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Tom,
I think you will find a page in the ACS catalog that explains quite a bit
about hosing.;)
I forgot to sign the other email to you, It's 3:00 am.,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: installing fire sleeve - basic question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I have yet to make any oil or fuel hoses and haven't yet seen any
> uninstalled firesleeve, so I'm starting from zero knowledge here.
>
> Can some one please tell me what the order of operations is? Can
> firesleeve be installed on a completed hose, that is one that has both
> end fittings installed? Or do you have to slip it on after installing
> the first fitting and then install the second end fitting?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent
> RV-6A, firewall.
>
>
>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
You can run the e-mag with fixed timing or have
it sense Map and Rpm to vary timing. P=mag
is the same except it can produce its own DC
power if needed.
Stewart
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@webkorner.com>
Is this an internally regulated alternator? I have a B & C regulator already installed
in my RV-8 and would be interested in putting one of these Autozone clones
if it will work with the B & C regulator.
Ron Schreck
Gold Hill Airpark, NC
do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
>
>
> Or......just buy the same 35 amp alternator *with* the fan (it'll fit
> just fine) from your local discount auto parts emporium for less than
> $50. The alternator is NipponDenso as used on 1976-1979 Honda Civic CVCC
> without air conditioning. A common number you can find in Duralast and
> other reman alternators is 14184. The Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100.
>
> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Advance Auto Parts alternator)
I went to Autozone and bought a Duralast 14184 for about $60 with the fan
like
Sam mentioned.. It fits perfectly and aligns up with the flywheel pulley
perfectly. It has a lifetime warranty. Bad thing is, a lot of Autozones
electrical stuff doesn't has long life spans, but they will exchange them
indefinitly if you want to keep changing them..
I originally bought Van's alternator kit with the 35 amp alternator. It was
Dead
on arrival but I didnt find it out for three years since I had ordered it
and
"shelfed" it. One of the diodes was broken inside. Poor Quality control back
at
the rebuild shop. It also did not line up real well.
Funny thing, both of these were 14184 alternators, but there was a difference.
Van's was twice as much money and it was very poorly rebuilt. The Duralast
looks
very nicely rebuilt for much less money. I am going to buy a spare and "shelf"
it
again........
just my oppinion
Phil, in Illinois
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: "George Steube" <at6c@bellsouth.net>
Stein,
Have you seen any of the paper work being used to install Dynon's in
certificated aircraft? Since the FAA has more or less gotten out of the
field approval business it would be interesting to see what some FSDOs are
accepting. I don't think mine would go for anything less than an STC.
Thanks.
George
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: IFR EFIS
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
I've gotten a peek at these new ADI's coming from Trutrak, and of course
I'll be selling them as soon as they start shipping. I can take orders for
them fairly soon, but they tell me they won't likely be shipping until Q2
'05. They'll be just like their pictorial pilot, but wil vertical guidance
as well, making it a quasi-ADI except solid state and probably more
reliable. Their current solid state T&B will run an hour on a simple 9 volt
battery!!
They aren't the most advanced digital looking things in the world, but if
it's coming from Younkin, you will know it's top notch and VERY reliable.
He's forgotten more about aircraft flight instruments than most people will
ever know.
It's just my opinion, but they will be well worth the money when they are
shipped. I've been selling a TON of the pictorial T&B's to guys that are
flying heavy IFR in a variety of aircraft and they are using them as
backups, and good ones at that.
FYI, Dynon's are now starting to show up in quite a few certified airplanes.
We've been selling quite a number of harnesses to people who've sucessfully
been able to install them in certified aircraft, not the least being an FAA
FSDO inspector himslef. I personally know of Dynon's installed in 172's,
182's, 210's, Bonanza's, Various Pipers, and a few twins. Also the T-28
crowd along with the YAK/CJ drivers are installing these things at a high
rate.
Just my 2 cents as usual!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Doug Rozendaal
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: IFR EFIS
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Jim Younkin and the folks at Tru-Trak have another neat toy coming out at
SNF.
It is basically a Solid State Turn Coordinator with a horizon bar that is
driven by a solid state gyro and a rate of climb aneriod to yield pitch
information.
Jim Younkin told me about this device a couple years ago and it looks like
they are ready to ship it. This could be either a primary ADI or a backup
for a experimental EFIS.
My airplane will have one of these as soon as I can get one.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
Doug and list,
I have an E-Mag on order and have quizzed them up and down at Copperstate
and on the phone. Here's what I know...
The E-Mag comes in 4 flavors - and you must specify at time of order what
you want.
1. 25 BTDC (same as Slick mag)
2. RPM advance curve
3. MAP advance curve
4. custom curve (factory set - you can't modify it)
My fixed pitch will use the RPM advance, any CS prop would use the MAP. Map
sensor used to be a $50 option but it is now standard on the current batch
of orders.
The current batch is also shorter in length, and has a new circuit board, as
well as other changes. Here is a snip from Brad at E-Mag...
"It turns out, the backordered (circuit board) component is in short supply
because it's being replaced by a newer version. The new part is a "near"
direct replacement, requiring only a few changes in our command code.
However, this requires us to test the new part before we commit the entire
run. This work, during the upcoming holidays, will mean a likely delay of
about three weeks. We regret the interruption, but everyone agrees it's
better to get it right than get it quick."
Kindest Regards,
Brad Dement
I'm happy they are testing the units before shipping them. My motor will
have a test cell run with the mag which should uncover any potential
problems. Given the hot spark, lack of moving parts, competitive price,
advance curve options, ability to use auto plugs, and compact size I simply
had to try one on. The left side will be a Slick mag for redundancy and
peace of mind.
Don't ask how it works cuz I won't be airborne soon...just made the BIG CUT
on the canopy. Soon to be glued, not screwed.
Kelly Patterson
Phoenix, AZ
-6A finishing
>Time: 10:19:17 AM PST US
>From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: E-Mag
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
><dfischer@iserv.net>
>
>After reading the E-Mag web site, it appeared to me that the
>E-mag is a straight replacement for a mag in that the timing
>is fixed and does not advance or retard like an electronic
>ignition does. Am I mistaken? Even if I'm not, the E-mag
>sounds better than a standard mag.
>
>Doug Fischer
>RV-9A Wings
>Do not archive
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Ron Schreck wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck"
> <ronschreck@webkorner.com>
>
>
> Is this an internally regulated alternator? I have a B & C regulator
> already installed in my RV-8 and would be interested in putting one
> of these Autozone clones if it will work with the B & C regulator.
>
> Ron Schreck Gold Hill Airpark, NC
>
The 14184 is externally regulated, just like the one Vans
sells.......cause it *is* the one Vans sells! :-)
A good regulator for it is mid-70's Ford from the same place you buy the
alternator, 'bout $10. But the high dollar B&C will work, too. ;-)
Sam Buchanan
==============================
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic
> Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
>
>>
>>
>> Or......just buy the same 35 amp alternator *with* the fan (it'll
>> fit just fine) from your local discount auto parts emporium for
>> less than $50. The alternator is NipponDenso as used on 1976-1979
>> Honda Civic CVCC without air conditioning. A common number you can
>> find in Duralast and other reman alternators is 14184. The
>> Beck/Arnley number is 186-0100.
>>
>> Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with Advance Auto Parts alternator)
>
> I went to Autozone and bought a Duralast 14184 for about $60 with the
> fan like Sam mentioned.. It fits perfectly and aligns up with the
> flywheel pulley perfectly. It has a lifetime warranty. Bad thing is,
> a lot of Autozones electrical stuff doesn't has long life spans, but
> they will exchange them indefinitly if you want to keep changing
> them..
>
> I originally bought Van's alternator kit with the 35 amp alternator.
> It was Dead on arrival but I didnt find it out for three years since
> I had ordered it and "shelfed" it. One of the diodes was broken
> inside. Poor Quality control back at the rebuild shop. It also did
> not line up real well.
>
> Funny thing, both of these were 14184 alternators, but there was a
> difference. Van's was twice as much money and it was very poorly
> rebuilt. The Duralast looks very nicely rebuilt for much less money.
> I am going to buy a spare and "shelf" it again........
>
> just my oppinion
>
> Phil, in Illinois
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360 |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on mail6.iserv.net
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
Not to advertise for yet another discussion group, there is a forum on Yahoo
that is specifically set up for XP-360 engines that seems to be very
informative. You may want to check it out.
Doug Fischer
RV-9A Wings
----- Original Message -----
From: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
Subject: RV-List: Superior XP-360 vs Mattituck TMX-360
> --> RV-List message posted by: "davercook" <davercook@prodigy.net>
>
> Listers
> Any thoughts on the difference between the Superior XP-360 and the
Mattituck TMX-360. The TMX is $1000 less and closer to my home (less
shipping cost).I know lots of people like AeroSport but they are a long way
away from Florida. Also, Superior will be increasing price as of Jan. 1st.
Or is ECI a better or cheaper way to go. I don't know who distributes the
ECI engine.There web site only indicates parts available.
> Thanks
> Dave Cook
> Looking for Windmill for RV-6
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Insurance Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
Listers,
Having hopefully got close to flight, after 5 years, I requested info
from Avemco about converting not-inflight to inflight. They say OK but
have two surprising, to me, restrictions. No hull coverage for the first
10 hours and no liability to a test pilot for the first 10 hours. That
is if the pilot is not the insured.
This seems to be just the time you need insurance.
My question is do all of the other companies have similar restrictions
or is this just an Avemco thing. If not I might be tempted to shop around.
TIA Jim Bean
RV-8 - close
PS- They also want 10 hours of current tailwheel time, which I think is
quite reasonable.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: installing fire sleeve - basic question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Burns" <maburns@cox-internet.com>
An old mechanic showed me how to install firesleeve with compressed air.
I was working at the Cessna service hanger in Wichita back in the late 70's.
I was a young A&P at the time and had been struggling with the firesleeve on
an oil hose for at least 15 minutes.
This guy comes over to me and say's "let me show you a trick". I said
"please".
He takes a air hose with a blow nozzle, sticks it up in one end of the fire
sleeve and tells me to put the other end on the oil hose.
He tells me to get it started and then put my hand around it and squeeze to
trap the air inside. By controlling the amount of air you let out, the
firesleeve expands and the extra air escaping makes the firesleeve slide on
like a hockey puck on an air table. I was amazed and remember it like it was
yesterday.
Hope this helps someone.
Mark Burns
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: installing fire sleeve - basic question
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> om,
>
> The firesleeve can fit over the end fitting but when it is sized properly
> it
> is tight. If you make the lines first, or have them made, just be patient
> and work the firesleeve over the fittings. Then dab a bit of high tenmp
> silicone sealer on each and and secure them so that oil and dirt can't get
> inside.
>
> Mike Robertson
>
>>From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: installing fire sleeve - basic question
>>Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 22:24:56 -0700
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
>>
>>I have yet to make any oil or fuel hoses and haven't yet seen any
>>uninstalled firesleeve, so I'm starting from zero knowledge here.
>>
>>Can some one please tell me what the order of operations is? Can
>>firesleeve be installed on a completed hose, that is one that has both
>>end fittings installed? Or do you have to slip it on after installing
>>the first fitting and then install the second end fitting?
>>
>>Thanks,
>>--
>>Tom Sargent
>>RV-6A, firewall.
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Insurance Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cory Emberson" <bootless@earthlink.net>
Hi Jim,
I believe that's a Avemco underwriting standard. I did an article on
insurance for homebuilts for Kitplanes in the Oct 2004 issue, and because
Avemco's a direct insurer, which means they deal directly with the customers
and develop their own underwriting standards. They're strict.
Things may have changed since I did my research, but I'd give JT Helms
(VanGuard) a ping on the list, or contact Falcon Insurance to see if their
standards are different.
best, Cory
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Bean
Subject: RV-List: Insurance Question
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
Listers,
Having hopefully got close to flight, after 5 years, I requested info
from Avemco about converting not-inflight to inflight. They say OK but
have two surprising, to me, restrictions. No hull coverage for the first
10 hours and no liability to a test pilot for the first 10 hours. That
is if the pilot is not the insured.
This seems to be just the time you need insurance.
My question is do all of the other companies have similar restrictions
or is this just an Avemco thing. If not I might be tempted to shop around.
TIA Jim Bean
RV-8 - close
PS- They also want 10 hours of current tailwheel time, which I think is
quite reasonable.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield to Canopy joint |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 12/18/04 3:12:07 PM Pacific Standard Time, JTAnon@aol.com
writes:
<< Page 9-12, paragraph 3 (Fitting THe Windscreen) in the manual regarding the
meeting point of the windscreen and canopy on a slider states, " ...the
height
of the canopy frame is adjusted ... so the windscreen portion of the
canopy=20is
even with, or slightly lower than the sliding portion of the canopy." >>
I don't know about the -7 instructions but on my -6 I adjusted the mating
line by placing spacers (#6 nylon washers) between the plexi and the bars as
required to make them even and this worked well.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying, 18+ hours so far.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: installing fire sleeve - basic question |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Mark, this trick is hands-down the best one I've heard in a long while!
Until you've struggled with firesleeve, you owe it to yourself to put at
least one firesleeve on he old fashioned way ..... like trying to stuff
a noodle! Your appreciation for Marks trick will be boundless!!!
Linn
do not archive.
Mark Burns wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Burns" <maburns@cox-internet.com>
>
>An old mechanic showed me how to install firesleeve with compressed air.
>I was working at the Cessna service hanger in Wichita back in the late 70's.
>
>I was a young A&P at the time and had been struggling with the firesleeve on
>an oil hose for at least 15 minutes.
>This guy comes over to me and say's "let me show you a trick". I said
>"please".
>
>He takes a air hose with a blow nozzle, sticks it up in one end of the fire
>sleeve and tells me to put the other end on the oil hose.
>He tells me to get it started and then put my hand around it and squeeze to
>trap the air inside. By controlling the amount of air you let out, the
>firesleeve expands and the extra air escaping makes the firesleeve slide on
>like a hockey puck on an air table. I was amazed and remember it like it was
>yesterday.
>
>Hope this helps someone.
>
>Mark Burns
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: installing fire sleeve - basic question
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>>
>>om,
>>
>>The firesleeve can fit over the end fitting but when it is sized properly
>>it
>>is tight. If you make the lines first, or have them made, just be patient
>>and work the firesleeve over the fittings. Then dab a bit of high tenmp
>>silicone sealer on each and and secure them so that oil and dirt can't get
>>inside.
>>
>>Mike Robertson
>>
>>
>>
>>>From: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
>>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>Subject: RV-List: installing fire sleeve - basic question
>>>Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 22:24:56 -0700
>>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "thomas a. sargent" <sarg314@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>I have yet to make any oil or fuel hoses and haven't yet seen any
>>>uninstalled firesleeve, so I'm starting from zero knowledge here.
>>>
>>>Can some one please tell me what the order of operations is? Can
>>>firesleeve be installed on a completed hose, that is one that has both
>>>end fittings installed? Or do you have to slip it on after installing
>>>the first fitting and then install the second end fitting?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>--
>>>Tom Sargent
>>>RV-6A, firewall.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Insurance Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Jim,
Nationair converted my builders policy to full liability and hull coverage
(1M and 100K) with no such requirement. I did need a signoff in a tailwheel
RV though. A little under $3000 for a year with me as a very low time pilot
-Ross
Ross Schlotthauer
N703RV Flying
www.experimentalair.com
>From: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Insurance Question
>Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 12:40:09 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>Having hopefully got close to flight, after 5 years, I requested info
>from Avemco about converting not-inflight to inflight. They say OK but
>have two surprising, to me, restrictions. No hull coverage for the first
>10 hours and no liability to a test pilot for the first 10 hours. That
>is if the pilot is not the insured.
>
>This seems to be just the time you need insurance.
>My question is do all of the other companies have similar restrictions
>or is this just an Avemco thing. If not I might be tempted to shop around.
>
>TIA Jim Bean
>RV-8 - close
>
>PS- They also want 10 hours of current tailwheel time, which I think is
>quite reasonable.
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 12/19/04 12:41:05 PM Eastern Standard Time,
jim-bean@att.net writes:
> No hull coverage for the first
> 10 hours and no liability to a test pilot for the first 10 hours.
Had similar recent experience with AIG on the test pilot coverage. Had a test
pilot lined up who was recently retired from USAirways after 30 years, was a
flight instructor with 160 hours in RV's, had an RV6 he used to check out new
RV pilots, was an A&P and I am probably forgetting something. But, AIG would
not insure him!
So, I successfully flew it myself.
do not archive
Dale Ensing
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Yes the E-Mag does advance timing, using MAP and RPM, as do all the current experimental
electronic ignitions. The P-Mag is the self-powered version of the E-Mag,
which will continue to run without battery power (but needs a small amount
of power to get it going.) Other electronic ignitions require ships power 100%
of the time to make the engine turn. This is why builders have had to contemplate
extra batteries as backup with dual electronic ignitions up till now.
Almost any engine, turbo-charged or non-turbo, can benefit from variable timing
advance. At altitude, low power and lean mixture the combustion flame front is
slow, therefore it requires advanced timing to burn completely. That is why
it is more efficient to advance the timing under these conditions to get a complete
burn of the fuel. MAP and RPM are directly related to the POWER the engine
is making. Knowing how much power you are making is very important to knowing
how much to advance timing. CHT is not used to measure power in engines typically,
but is a critical limitation of an air-cooled aircraft engine. Timing
is only one thing that affects CHT, cooling airflow and mixture affect CHT. The
main indication of power is MAP & RPM.
LSE, E-Mag, JeffRose all have an timing advance capability using MAP and RPM. You
can buy the E-Mag without the MAP input. Then the timing is fixed at 25 degrees
like a regular Magneto. It does NOT advance timing on RPM only, as far as
I know. You need both RPM & MAP sensors to accurately control timing advance.
CHT is NOT required or needed to control timing well or safely. As far as CHT,
I assume the "certified" units use this input to guard against detonation more
than optimize timing. It is possible to cause detonation with timing too far
advanced under high power. Detonation is characteristically preceded with a
sharp rise in CHT. However if the CHT spikes it may be too late anyway. I think
the Fed's made LASAR do this for a feel good. To get LASAR certified they even
buried a complete set of magnetos under the electronics. Looking at the LASAR,
it looks a little messy. I have not heard any WOW about it, except it is
very expensive.
The E-Mag allows you to turn the timing advance off for the fixed 25 deg timing.
However I don't know why you would do this, unless you wanted to compare performance
with and without advance. With the engine running, old magnetos are always
at 25-degree BTDC, ALL THE TIME. It works well, but it is not real efficient
at all power settings. Electronic ignitions also give hotter sparks and
sometimes much longer duration sparks as well as advanced timing. A fixed 25 degree
is very conservative. Max advance of the electronic ignitions is about 40
deg, but is reached only at low power (Low MAP). CHT is not in the mix.
Aircraft engines operate almost always in a narrow power band from 2300 to 2700
RPM, so timing advance is not as critical. You can just set it at a happy average,
25 deg. That is why the good-old magneto has worked OK for this long, but
have the disadvantage of poor spark and mechanical parts to wear. The advantage
of the magneto is it is self-contained and does not rely on external power
supply. Up till the E-Mag a battery was needed.
The current crop of electronic ignitions target a conservative increase in efficiency
from timing. I don't think any are on the edge or reduce the detonation
margins in their standard configuration. I assume this from their good service
history. The max advance only happens at low power setting (i.e. WOT cruise
at altitude), where detonation is very unlikely. The CHT probe would not help
much anyway if you did detonate. It can happen too fast. Also any adjustment made
to timing from a CHT input would be small. They have a biased towards efficiency
and not higher power, so no CHT is needed. The pilot is responsible for
CHT to be in limits. Experimental aircraft should have good EGT/CHT on all cylinders.
Lightspeed does have an option for the Racers to tinker with T-advance in the cockpit
while flying. I think it is real cool, but you have to be real sure of
what you are doing, have a well-instrumented engine and understand the risks.
You can get more power with advance at high power but you are reducing your detonation
margins, just as you are when you put in high compression pistons. E-Mag
will customize you timing curve on request, but it is fixed and must be done
at their factory.
The self powered version of the E-Mag, the P-Mag does not need backup electric
power. This self powered feature lets you run a dual electronic ignition setup
without worry or installing an extra back-up power supply. Unlike other electronic
ignitions, the E-Mag has a simpler self-contained package (like a Magneto).
The other typical electronic ignitions require several components like:
ignition triggers, brain box and coils. All this is connected together with a
wiring harness. Not a problem, just a little more installation and more potential
problem areas.
The E-Mags "timing curve" schedules how the timing will advanced. I think max
advance is around 40 Deg BTDC. It also has a start mode where the timing is back
around TDC. As you know starting at 25 deg will get you a nasty kick back.
Magnetos use a mechanical retard and "impulse couple" for extra spark to start,
and usually this is on just one magneto. The E-Mag does this electronically.
If you have a failure in the electronics, MAP or RPM sensor it will revert to
standard 25 degree timing as a fall back mode. The standard "Timing Curve" is
fixed, but the factory will make a custom curve for those who want special performance
for high compression pistons or a special cam.
The typical setup would be one E-Mag and one self powered P-Mag, or you could use
two P-Mag's. However the "P" costs a few hundred more than the "E." I asked
if the P-Mag and another brand of electronic ignition could be paired. It was
suggested that it is better to stick with a dual electronic ignition of the
same type (brand). The interaction between different brads of ignition should
not be a problem but may not be as efficient. If you can run a Magneto with any
electronic ignition, I don't think it should be a problem running two different
electronic ignitions. (Thoughts?)
I gather the performance of the E-Mag will be good, but that the Lightspeed may
be just a little better from a pure performance stand point, but that is a guess.
The LSE uses "CDI" capacitive discharge" and the JeffRose and E-Mag use "inductive".
They both work well. Going from a regular magneto to any electronic
ignition with variable timing is a huge leap forward. How much differential
in performance between electronic ignitions is there? The Lightspeed has other
features that separate it from others, like in-flight cockpit controlled timing,
MAP and RPM display options and works on lower voltage. If you don't care
about these features, I think the E-Mag/P-Mag combo is a great option to builders.
Plus the ease of installation and no worry of electrical power is a big plus.
The magneto is still an option, but passing on the electronic ignition based on
fear of advanced timing or no CHT input is not a reason. Remember old car distributors
with the mechanical advance and a vacuum advance on the side. Advance
is good but don't expect a huge gain in efficiency (LSE claims 5-7% efficiency
increase). Cafe foundation did a 3 part on electronic ignition and did find
performance and efficiency gains, mostly at altitude and 70% power cruise. If
youre on a budget and have the magnetos already, use them. You can always add
on electronic ignition in the future. If you are starting from scratch get dual
electronic ignition. You may not make your money back in fuel savings, but
it will be smoother and you have the option to use auto spark plugs at a fraction
the price. If you drop a $3 auto plug, you may not cry like you would with
a $20 A/C plug. With the P-Mag the redundancy of power is addressed with little
fuss.
I am looking forward to hearing how it works in the air. Happy Holidays G
>Time: 10:19:17 AM PST US
>From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: E-Mag
>clamav-milter version 0.80j
>on mail3.iserv.net
>RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
><dfischer@iserv.net>
>
>After reading the E-Mag web site, it appeared to me that the E-mag is a
>straight replacement for a mag in that the timing is fixed and does not
>advance or retard like an electronic ignition does. Am I mistaken?
>Even if I'm not, the E-mag sounds better than a standard mag.
>
>Doug Fischer
>RV-9A Wings
>Do not archive
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>Subject: RV-List: E-Mag
> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>Well,
>as I have stated before, I'm concerned that they (E-Mag, as well as
>the other two systems) are not providing a CHT input to the varible
>timing equation. This is far more important than is MAP since MAP is not
>really a critical factor in a non-supercharged engine and can be roughly
>estimated, and in fact is by their non-MAP system. On the other hand CHT (the
>most critical limiting factor in a tightly cowled aircooled engine), is most
easily
>and effectively controlled by timing, and in fact the onl certified FADEC units,
>TCM Aerosance and Unison LASAR, in fact do use CHT for just that >purpose.>
---------------------------------
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
----- Original Message -----
From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: E-Mag
> --> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>
>SNIP.
>
> The E-Mag allows you to turn the timing advance off for the fixed 25 deg
timing. However I don't know why you would do this, unless you wanted to
compare performance with and without advance. With the engine running, old
magnetos are always at 25-degree BTDC, ALL THE TIME. >
>
>SNIP
I would guess that the 25 degree can be turned off when the E-Mag is used
during starting of engine so it will fire at TDC.
Jerry Calvert
RV6 N296JC
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I'm embarrassed to admit that I switched the P leads on my mag (toggle)
switches which means that I was starting on the right mag only and the left
one with the impulse couplings only came on line after the engine was
running. It worked that way for 7 starts and then refused to start again and
that's when I discovered my mistake. I was under the impression that it
would not start without the impulse coupling (which is what did happen) but
why did it work for a while. Any thoughts from you A&P's out there? Also,
just installed my constant speed prop, sure performs great but makes a lot
of noise (and some vibration) below 2350 rpm Anyone else experience this?
John
RV6A O-320
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Mags Crossed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Heh, heh... been there done that. Get this, mine ran a year with my
mags reversed! Just kept getting harder and harder to start until
finally, nothing. Would just run the battery down. Man! A whole
year! Yes sir, that's an Aero Sport Power engine! Bart can sure build 'em!
John Furey wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
>I'm embarrassed to admit that I switched the P leads on my mag (toggle)
>switches which means that I was starting on the right mag only and the left
>one with the impulse couplings only came on line after the engine was
>running. It worked that way for 7 starts and then refused to start again and
>that's when I discovered my mistake. I was under the impression that it
>would not start without the impulse coupling (which is what did happen) but
>why did it work for a while. Any thoughts from you A&P's out there? Also,
>just installed my constant speed prop, sure performs great but makes a lot
>of noise (and some vibration) below 2350 rpm Anyone else experience this?
>
>John
>RV6A O-320
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Mags Crossed |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
John Furey wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
>I'm embarrassed to admit that I switched the P leads on my mag (toggle)
>switches which means that I was starting on the right mag only and the left
>one with the impulse couplings only came on line after the engine was
>running. It worked that way for 7 starts and then refused to start again and
>that's when I discovered my mistake. I was under the impression that it
>would not start without the impulse coupling (which is what did happen) but
>why did it work for a while. Any thoughts from you A&P's out there? Also,
>just installed my constant speed prop, sure performs great but makes a lot
>of noise (and some vibration) below 2350 rpm Anyone else experience this?
>
>John
>RV6A O-320
>
I'm no A&P but here's some thoughts. I'm surprised that it started at
all! I'm guessing that you have a new lightweight starter that spins
that engine really fast. Fast enough for the new mag to generate enough
energy to fire and not kick back. Why did it quit firing? Maybe a low
battery ..... or the phase of the moon or ....... the things preventing
the continued firing are endless. I'm glad you found the problem ......
must have been good sleuthing on your part!!!!
As for the CS prop ..... they usually make more noise the faster they
go. The vibration (and some of the noise) may be a mis-wired plug(s)
...... check the firing order.
Oops .... out of thoughts on this one.
Linn
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi G,
Am I wrong in thinking that Ping sensing would seem to be a missing
component in the current electronic ignition system designs?
I would like to think that including ping sensing as is done in automotive
electronic ignition systems might some day be incorporated into the various
ignition systems that have come on stream lately. Do you or any other
listers have ideas in this regard.
Best of the season to everyone,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: E-Mag
> --> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>
>
> Yes the E-Mag does advance timing, using MAP and RPM, as do all the
> current experimental electronic ignitions. The P-Mag is the self-powered
> version of the E-Mag, which will continue to run without battery power
> (but needs a small amount of power to get it going.) Other electronic
> ignitions require ships power 100% of the time to make the engine turn.
> This is why builders have had to contemplate extra batteries as backup
> with dual electronic ignitions up till now.
>
>
> Almost any engine, turbo-charged or non-turbo, can benefit from variable
> timing advance. At altitude, low power and lean mixture the combustion
> flame front is slow, therefore it requires advanced timing to burn
> completely. That is why it is more efficient to advance the timing under
> these conditions to get a complete burn of the fuel. MAP and RPM are
> directly related to the POWER the engine is making. Knowing how much power
> you are making is very important to knowing how much to advance timing.
> CHT is not used to measure power in engines typically, but is a critical
> limitation of an air-cooled aircraft engine. Timing is only one thing that
> affects CHT, cooling airflow and mixture affect CHT. The main indication
> of power is MAP & RPM.
>
>
> LSE, E-Mag, JeffRose all have an timing advance capability using MAP and
> RPM. You can buy the E-Mag without the MAP input. Then the timing is fixed
> at 25 degrees like a regular Magneto. It does NOT advance timing on RPM
> only, as far as I know. You need both RPM & MAP sensors to accurately
> control timing advance. CHT is NOT required or needed to control timing
> well or safely. As far as CHT, I assume the "certified" units use this
> input to guard against detonation more than optimize timing. It is
> possible to cause detonation with timing too far advanced under high
> power. Detonation is characteristically preceded with a sharp rise in CHT.
> However if the CHT spikes it may be too late anyway. I think the Fed's
> made LASAR do this for a feel good. To get LASAR certified they even
> buried a complete set of magnetos under the electronics. Looking at the
> LASAR, it looks a little messy. I have not heard any WOW about it, except
> it is very expensive.
>
>
> The E-Mag allows you to turn the timing advance off for the fixed 25 deg
> timing. However I don't know why you would do this, unless you wanted to
> compare performance with and without advance. With the engine running, old
> magnetos are always at 25-degree BTDC, ALL THE TIME. It works well, but
> it is not real efficient at all power settings. Electronic ignitions also
> give hotter sparks and sometimes much longer duration sparks as well as
> advanced timing. A fixed 25 degree is very conservative. Max advance of
> the electronic ignitions is about 40 deg, but is reached only at low power
> (Low MAP). CHT is not in the mix.
>
>
> Aircraft engines operate almost always in a narrow power band from 2300 to
> 2700 RPM, so timing advance is not as critical. You can just set it at a
> happy average, 25 deg. That is why the good-old magneto has worked OK for
> this long, but have the disadvantage of poor spark and mechanical parts to
> wear. The advantage of the magneto is it is self-contained and does not
> rely on external power supply. Up till the E-Mag a battery was needed.
>
>
> The current crop of electronic ignitions target a conservative increase in
> efficiency from timing. I don't think any are on the edge or reduce the
> detonation margins in their standard configuration. I assume this from
> their good service history. The max advance only happens at low power
> setting (i.e. WOT cruise at altitude), where detonation is very unlikely.
> The CHT probe would not help much anyway if you did detonate. It can
> happen too fast. Also any adjustment made to timing from a CHT input would
> be small. They have a biased towards efficiency and not higher power, so
> no CHT is needed. The pilot is responsible for CHT to be in limits.
> Experimental aircraft should have good EGT/CHT on all cylinders.
>
>
> Lightspeed does have an option for the Racers to tinker with T-advance in
> the cockpit while flying. I think it is real cool, but you have to be real
> sure of what you are doing, have a well-instrumented engine and understand
> the risks. You can get more power with advance at high power but you are
> reducing your detonation margins, just as you are when you put in high
> compression pistons. E-Mag will customize you timing curve on request, but
> it is fixed and must be done at their factory.
>
>
> The self powered version of the E-Mag, the P-Mag does not need backup
> electric power. This self powered feature lets you run a dual electronic
> ignition setup without worry or installing an extra back-up power supply.
> Unlike other electronic ignitions, the E-Mag has a simpler self-contained
> package (like a Magneto). The other typical electronic ignitions require
> several components like: ignition triggers, brain box and coils. All this
> is connected together with a wiring harness. Not a problem, just a little
> more installation and more potential problem areas.
>
>
> The E-Mags "timing curve" schedules how the timing will advanced. I think
> max advance is around 40 Deg BTDC. It also has a start mode where the
> timing is back around TDC. As you know starting at 25 deg will get you a
> nasty kick back. Magnetos use a mechanical retard and "impulse couple" for
> extra spark to start, and usually this is on just one magneto. The E-Mag
> does this electronically. If you have a failure in the electronics, MAP or
> RPM sensor it will revert to standard 25 degree timing as a fall back
> mode. The standard "Timing Curve" is fixed, but the factory will make a
> custom curve for those who want special performance for high compression
> pistons or a special cam.
>
>
> The typical setup would be one E-Mag and one self powered P-Mag, or you
> could use two P-Mag's. However the "P" costs a few hundred more than the
> "E." I asked if the P-Mag and another brand of electronic ignition could
> be paired. It was suggested that it is better to stick with a dual
> electronic ignition of the same type (brand). The interaction between
> different brads of ignition should not be a problem but may not be as
> efficient. If you can run a Magneto with any electronic ignition, I don't
> think it should be a problem running two different electronic ignitions.
> (Thoughts?)
>
>
> I gather the performance of the E-Mag will be good, but that the
> Lightspeed may be just a little better from a pure performance stand
> point, but that is a guess. The LSE uses "CDI" capacitive discharge" and
> the JeffRose and E-Mag use "inductive". They both work well. Going from a
> regular magneto to any electronic ignition with variable timing is a huge
> leap forward. How much differential in performance between electronic
> ignitions is there? The Lightspeed has other features that separate it
> from others, like in-flight cockpit controlled timing, MAP and RPM display
> options and works on lower voltage. If you don't care about these
> features, I think the E-Mag/P-Mag combo is a great option to builders.
> Plus the ease of installation and no worry of electrical power is a big
> plus.
>
>
> The magneto is still an option, but passing on the electronic ignition
> based on fear of advanced timing or no CHT input is not a reason. Remember
> old car distributors with the mechanical advance and a vacuum advance on
> the side. Advance is good but don't expect a huge gain in efficiency (LSE
> claims 5-7% efficiency increase). Cafe foundation did a 3 part on
> electronic ignition and did find performance and efficiency gains, mostly
> at altitude and 70% power cruise. If youre on a budget and have the
> magnetos already, use them. You can always add on electronic ignition in
> the future. If you are starting from scratch get dual electronic ignition.
> You may not make your money back in fuel savings, but it will be smoother
> and you have the option to use auto spark plugs at a fraction the price.
> If you drop a $3 auto plug, you may not cry like you would with a $20 A/C
> plug. With the P-Mag the redundancy of power is addressed with little
> fuss.
>
>
> I am looking forward to hearing how it works in the air. Happy Holidays G
>
>
>>Time: 10:19:17 AM PST US
>
>>From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
>
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: E-Mag
>
>>clamav-milter version 0.80j
>
>>on mail3.iserv.net
>
>
>>RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer"
>
>><dfischer@iserv.net>
>
>>
>
>>After reading the E-Mag web site, it appeared to me that the E-mag is a
>
>>straight replacement for a mag in that the timing is fixed and does not
>
>>advance or retard like an electronic ignition does. Am I mistaken?
>
>>Even if I'm not, the E-mag sounds better than a standard mag.
>
>>
>
>>Doug Fischer
>
>>RV-9A Wings
>
>>Do not archive
>
>>
>
>>----- Original Message -----
>
>>From: "Wheeler North" <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>>Subject: RV-List: E-Mag
>
>> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>
>>Well,
>
>
>>as I have stated before, I'm concerned that they (E-Mag, as well as
>
>>the other two systems) are not providing a CHT input to the varible
>
>>timing equation. This is far more important than is MAP since MAP is not
>
>>really a critical factor in a non-supercharged engine and can be roughly
>
>>estimated, and in fact is by their non-MAP system. On the other hand CHT
>>(the
>
>>most critical limiting factor in a tightly cowled aircooled engine), is
>>most easily
>
>>and effectively controlled by timing, and in fact the onl certified FADEC
>>units,
>
>>TCM Aerosance and Unison LASAR, in fact do use CHT for just that
>> >purpose.>
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
Message 22
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vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | HR II for sale on Ebay Motors |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
In case anyone's interested. Here's the shortened URL:
*http://tinyurl.com/6ar2h
*
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 23
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vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | RV-8 for sale on Ebay Motors |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Seems to be RV day on eBay:
*http://tinyurl.com/6la3m
*
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Jim,
I think this is pretty common. Back when AVEMCO was the official EAA
insurance company, you were insured from the first flight if you took
part in the EAA Flight Advisor and Technical Counselor programs, because
it was proven that there were far fewer accidents during early flight
testing when builders took advantage of those programs. I don't know if
this is true now with the new insurer but, in my opinion, it should be.
Dave -6 So Cal
EAA Flight Advisor and Technical Counselor
Jim Bean wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>...I requested info from Avemco about converting not-inflight to inflight. They
say OK but
>have two surprising, to me, restrictions. No hull coverage for the first
>10 hours and no liability to a test pilot for the first 10 hours...
>
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Insurance Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Through Nationair I am listed on several polices as a pilot. And as long as
the pilot meets the experience requirements they will cover him/her and the
aircraft during the first ten hours. You should check them out.
Mike Robertson
>From: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Insurance Question
>Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2004 12:40:09 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>Having hopefully got close to flight, after 5 years, I requested info
>from Avemco about converting not-inflight to inflight. They say OK but
>have two surprising, to me, restrictions. No hull coverage for the first
>10 hours and no liability to a test pilot for the first 10 hours. That
>is if the pilot is not the insured.
>
>This seems to be just the time you need insurance.
>My question is do all of the other companies have similar restrictions
>or is this just an Avemco thing. If not I might be tempted to shop around.
>
>TIA Jim Bean
>RV-8 - close
>
>PS- They also want 10 hours of current tailwheel time, which I think is
>quite reasonable.
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Jim
This is an advantage of joining your local EAA Chapter. EAA has a tech
councilor program. This program mandates a minimum of 3 tech councilor
visits to inspect your workmanship and offer tips and advice. First
inspection must be prior to closing up the wings. Avemco will waive the "no
insurance for the first 10 hours" if you complete this program. Better yet
is the advantage to you, of having an experienced builder look over your work.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
>
>Listers,
>
>Having hopefully got close to flight, after 5 years, I requested info
>from Avemco about converting not-inflight to inflight. They say OK but
>have two surprising, to me, restrictions. No hull coverage for the first
>10 hours and no liability to a test pilot for the first 10 hours. That
>is if the pilot is not the insured.
>
>This seems to be just the time you need insurance.
>My question is do all of the other companies have similar restrictions
>or is this just an Avemco thing. If not I might be tempted to shop around.
>
>TIA Jim Bean
>RV-8 - close
>
>PS- They also want 10 hours of current tailwheel time, which I think is
>quite reasonable.
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Insurance Question clamav-milter version 0.80j |
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I believe the "new" insurance thru EAA does but I'll will check and get back
to you.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Bristol" <bj034@lafn.org>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Insurance Question clamav-milter version 0.80j on
zoot.lafn.org
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
> Jim,
>
> I think this is pretty common. Back when AVEMCO was the official EAA
> insurance company, you were insured from the first flight if you took
> part in the EAA Flight Advisor and Technical Counselor programs, because
> it was proven that there were far fewer accidents during early flight
> testing when builders took advantage of those programs. I don't know if
> this is true now with the new insurer but, in my opinion, it should be.
>
> Dave -6 So Cal
> EAA Flight Advisor and Technical Counselor
>
>
> Jim Bean wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Bean <jim-bean@att.net>
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >...I requested info from Avemco about converting not-inflight to
inflight. They say OK but
> >have two surprising, to me, restrictions. No hull coverage for the first
> >10 hours and no liability to a test pilot for the first 10 hours...
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 28
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
| Subject: | Apples to oranges |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
BTW, my Cheetah had a 35 amp unit that was still running strong after a
thousand hours of use. That was one reason I picked Van's 35 amp unit. My
RV is set up pretty much like what I had in the Cheetah. My -7A will be,
also. Well, I guess I may have some newer toys in the panel. :-)
Folks,
you can't compare the rating of an aircraft alternator with an automobile
unit. The auto units are not rated at continous duty as are the aircraft
units.
The other factor is that the units are rated at a specific temperature. Is
the temperature in your cowl equal to that?
Having it be of a load capacity that is larger just allows for it to run
cooler at an equal load, or at least to be better suited to handling equal
temperatures.
In my limited experience with Van's units (about ten of them) they are not
great units and in several cases they were flat out trash. I would never fly
one without first overhauling it myself. But, that said, I would do the same
with an autozone unit as well.
W
Message 29
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
After reading the E-Mag web site, it appeared to me that the E-mag is a
straight replacement for a mag in that the timing is fixed and does not
advance or retard like an electronic ignition does. Am I mistaken? Even if
I'm not, the E-mag sounds better than a standard mag.
Doug,
The E-Mag has the option, via a switch on the side of the unit somewhere to
set it to fixed or varible. They then offer an option to have a MAP input
which most likely allows them to follow a slightly more agressive timing
curve.
In any event, it most probably delivers a slightly hotter, longer, and more
consistant spark than does the typical mag, even in fixed mode.
The problem is how do I justify spending all that money when I already have
two perfectly well running mags flying right now.
Particularly when every bit if research I've done, including my own
empirical testing, shows that CHT is the most critical thing to be
monitoring when using an agressive timing curve on an aircooled engine.
But, since I don't want to do the work at designing this, my goal here is to
stir up the pot enough to get the market pressure to motivate them to make
what I want...
;{)
W
Message 30
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
My tailwheel measures 5.187" diameter after 1100 hrs. and since yours is
4.812", I still can't tell you when they should be considered worn out.
But
at least I now know that mine isn't worn out yet! Thanks.
Ivan,
so does this mean I'm the poor fool who has to create the standard here.
Last I heard most aviation standards come from crash sites...
;{)
Judging by those numbers I guess I'm dragging my tailwheel around too much.
I guess I'll have to start doing more wheel landings so somebody else can
catch up and become the poor fool.
Hey Mikey, ya wanta borrow my tail wheel for awhile?
do not archive
Message 31
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| Subject: | Rocket Tailwheel Linkage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
I've left e-mail and phone messages with Terry Jantzi for one of these for
my RV-7, but am getting no response at all. Does anybody know if these are
still available?
Mark Taylor
RV-7 QB
www.4sierratango.com
Message 32
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| Subject: | O-320 HDAD For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Do not archive
2000 hours SMOH
All Accessories
High compressions
100 hour inspections
$4,900
$5,400 with Sensenich Prop
Please respond to
azpilot@extremezone.com
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
http://www.lacodeworks.com/besing
Kitlog Pro Builder's Log Software
http://www.kitlog.com
Message 33
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| Subject: | Rocket Tailwheel Linkage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Andre Berthet" <aberthet@sbcglobal.net>
Mark,
I have also been trying to contact Terry for more than a month. I left
several messages on his voice-mail; sent him multiple e-mails without any
replies. If anyone in this list has any information about his whereabouts I
would appreciate it.
Thanks,
Andre Berthet
Do not archive.
> Sent: Sunday, December 19, 2004 9:10 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Rocket Tailwheel Linkage
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
>
> I've left e-mail and phone messages with Terry Jantzi for one of these for
> my RV-7, but am getting no response at all. Does anybody know if these are
> still available?
>
> Mark Taylor
Message 34
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| Subject: | Subject: Engines-List: Another O-290 for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
I posted this on the engines list and then figured why not spread it around.
Call me if you need any more info.
--> Engines-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Ron wrote:
"If our friend still has it, there is a steal on a 0-290 that has been rebuilt
by
a professional aircraft engine builder. Dyno tested @ 140 HP. It is a certified
engine and the last asking price was $10,000. If interested, email Ron
at rgdplg@radiowire.net"
I too have an O-290 which I decided to sell. Please note this is not a certified
engine.
I bought this from a fellow Chapter 14 club member. It was used until fairly recently
in his Tailwind and reportedly has about 65 hours on it since a full rebuild.
It was removed when he decided to change to a Jabiru in the hopes (vain)
of getting more performance. It comes complete with several spares and engine
manuals. There is also a prop and spinner which I am willing to sell with
it.
It has been filled with 30 weight oil and the bores wiped with STP whilst I have
had it.
I live in the San Diego area but would be willing to deliver up to a couple of
hundred miles.
I am asking for $6,000 with the prop and spinner and $5,600 for just the engine.
Buyer to pay s & h if required.
For any more information please feel free to call me directly at 619 916 8059 or
email robshipley@gmail.com .
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
Now planning on a Mazda Renesis engine!
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