Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:15 AM - Re: special FWF nuts? (Dan Checkoway)
2. 02:51 AM - Re: special FWF nuts? ()
3. 03:39 AM - Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight (Kevin Horton)
4. 05:27 AM - Re: Liquid versus powdered Alodine or Iridite was Re: RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04 (plaurence@the-beach.net)
5. 06:36 AM - Re: Liquid versus powdered Alodine or Iridite was Re: (Charlie Kuss)
6. 06:36 AM - Fw: Alodine Powder Purchasing (Charlie Kuss)
7. 06:57 AM - Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight (LarryRobertHelming)
8. 07:14 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] special FWF nuts? (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
9. 07:39 AM - Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight (Roger Embree)
10. 07:39 AM - Crosswind Limits (Valovich, Paul)
11. 08:07 AM - Re: Crosswind Limits (Derrick Aubuchon)
12. 08:24 AM - Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind (LarryRobertHelming)
13. 08:36 AM - Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight ()
14. 08:53 AM - Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind (Sam Buchanan)
15. 08:56 AM - Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight (linn walters)
16. 09:10 AM - Re: Liquid versus powdered Alodine or Iridite was Re: RV-List (PJ Seipel)
17. 09:40 AM - Stubborn RV-7 Tail Spring/Mount (Dwight Frye)
18. 09:47 AM - Empennage Kit Received: Now to start another primer battle... (alan@reichertech.com)
19. 10:35 AM - Empennage Kit Received: Now to start another primer battle... (William Couvillon)
20. 10:42 AM - Price Increase - Answers from Van's (William Couvillon)
21. 10:44 AM - Re: Stubborn RV-7 Tail Spring/Mount (LarryRobertHelming)
22. 11:29 AM - Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind (Bryan Jones)
23. 11:34 AM - Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind (Stein Bruch)
24. 11:37 AM - Re: Crosswind Limits (Bryan Jones)
25. 12:17 PM - Re: Crosswind Limits (RV6 Flyer)
26. 01:50 PM - Re: Empennage Kit Received: Now to start another primer battle... (Randy Lervold)
27. 01:52 PM - Re: Re: [VAF Mailing List] special FWF nuts? (Charles Heathco)
28. 02:10 PM - Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind (Randy Lervold)
29. 02:56 PM - Radio/Intercom interference with engine issue (N223RV@aol.com)
30. 03:12 PM - planetools.com ()
31. 04:21 PM - Re: Radio/Intercom interference with engine issue (James Freeman)
32. 04:23 PM - Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind (Kevin Horton)
33. 04:33 PM - 4000 !! (R.A.S)
34. 05:06 PM - Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind (GMC)
35. 05:34 PM - Re: Radio/Intercom interference with engine issue (GMC)
36. 06:34 PM - Re: Radio/Intercom interference with engine issue (Tom Barnes)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: special FWF nuts? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> BEST PRACTICE is to use only all metal locknuts firewall forward.
Note that on the RV-7 finish kit drawings, Van's themselves called out a
nylok nut on the bolt that attaches the top of the main landing gear to the
engine mount. That looked fishy to me, so I went with an all metal stop nut
instead. IIRC, that was the only place in the plans that called for nylok
under the cowl.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: special FWF nuts? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> Are there special nuts I should be using for stuff like onthe Adel clamps
FWF? Are > the nylon lock nuts taboo FWF?
>
> I notice in a couple of kits I got for FWF related stuffthey useddifferent
style nuts but > one thing they all did NOT have in common was nylon
inserts.
>
At the risk of being flamed, here is a different slant on the answers I've
seen, already.
To some, it's taboo to use AN365 nylon insert nuts inside the engine
section. I know better. My Grumman-American Cheetah, a commercially built
airplane, had them in the engine compartment and didn't suffer from it. I
flew that airplane for over nine years and never had to replace the AN365
nuts and never had one back off. In Scooter, I installed AN365s in the
engine compartment except near the exhaust system. Having them close to the
exhaust is a no-no, of course. You'll need steel locking nuts there. I
also used the AN365 supplied with the nose gear mount. Guess what. It
hasn't fallen off Scooter, yet. That nut hasn't moved in five years! Nor
have any of the other AN365s I installed.
Use all steel locking nuts, if you're worried about the heat generated in
the engine. Keep in mind that heat high enough to melt the inserts is
probably going to be hot enough to damage/melt the cowl, oil filler tube,
Adel clamps, hoses, tie wraps, etc. Under normal operating conditions, it
doesn't seem to get that hot. If you're worried about how well the inserts
will stay flexible, you could always replace them instead of reusing them,
when needed.
I hope this helps. There is more discussion on this in the archives. As
for you guys who won't use AN365s, flame away! I can handle it. Just keep
in mind that my reply is based on my experiences and not what someone else
told me. :-) Just in case that doesn't work, I just looked it up in my
copy of the FAA's Airframe & Powerplant Mechanics General Handbook. It says
I can use them in the engine compartment, as well. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
RV-6A N198JS (Scooter, five years and still going)
RV-7A #70317 (Wings construction stalled for the holidays)
EAA Tech. Counselor
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Tim Lewis wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis " <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
>>
>> Thanks for all the responses on and off the list. I've never used
>> Teflon tape on my fuel
>> system, so that's not a likely factor. With above freezing temps
>> today I encountered no
>> problems flying from the right tank. I'm pretty confident fuel tank
>> or fuel line icing was the
>> problem. I found no water in the tank when I sumped it, but that
>> would be consistent with the
>> idea that the water only came out of solution at the much colder
>> temps encountered during the
>> flight, and would have been reabsorbed when temps climbed.
>>
> HUH? Tim, I hate to send you back to "problem solving 101", but fuel
> and water don't mix at any temperature. What can happen, and has been
> suggested, is that water collects in a low spot, which freezes and
> blocks (or severely reduces) the fuel flow. The only way to get the
> water out of the low spot is to use high pressure air to blow it out.
> Do not use 'dri-gas' as it's mostly alcohol and will do harm to seals
> and diaphragms.
> Linn
>
But, if you are burning auto gas, as Tim was, there is a good chance
that there is some alcohol in the fuel. The alcohol will carry water
in solution. You can see this if you have a clear jar. Pour a bit of
water in the jar, and mark where the top of the water is. Pour a bunch
of auto gas in the jar, stir it up, then let it sit. If there is
alcohol in it, you'll see that the line between the water and gas is
lower than where the top of the water is. Some of the water has been
absorbed into the alcohol.
If you try this with avgas, the line between the water and the gas
should be where the top of the water was before you poured the gas in
the jar.
Kevin Horton
Message 4
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Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
--> RV-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
Pat
I purchased mine from Allied Plating Supplies
800 432 8692
They might ship
Peter
>
> Pat,
> At $1.66 per gallon for powder versus $20 to $27 per gallon liquid,
>
> there is NO good deal on liquid Alodine or Iridite. Do the math. Even
> buying 10 pounds (minumum purchase quantity for powder. Enough to make
> 100 - 130 gallons) of Iridite 14-2 at $166 is a better deal than
> buying 4-5 gallons of liquid at the prices above. Charlie Kuss
> >
Message 5
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RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> RV-List Digest:
20 Msgs - 12/23/04
Pat,
I would not recommend that any RV builder buy their Alodine (or Iridite
or Dorado Kote 1) from ACS. To expensive. What is not factored into your
equation, is the HazMat shipping charges you incur, when you order liquid
chromic acid or phosphoric acid compounds from ANY vendor.
Will those who have ordered liquid Alodine from ACS please pipe up here?
I know that the shipping charges have been surprising. A number of builders
have commented on that fact, on list, in the past. When I started my 8A
project, I purchased a liquid equivalent of Alodine (marketed by PPG &
DuPont) from my local automotive paint store. They charged between $21-$27
per liquid gallon. (they had to pay the HazMat shipping fees).
Allied Plating Supply will sell you 10 pounds of MacDirmid's Iridite 14-2
powder for $166. That the same as what I would pay for 6.5 gallons of
liquid, locally. The other factor is that liquid chromic acids have a shelf
life and are photochemically reactive. My experience is that about 18-24
months is the longest the liquid will be viable. Don't use this stuff (or
store it for that matter) in sunlight. It will be ruined in one use. The
powder will keep for up to 5 years, if kept dry. With the powder, you can
mix only the amount needed. You can split the cost with two other builders,
as 30 - 40 gallons will allow you to treat even the largest parts of your
project by "dipping".
I know other methods of application can be used, but they tend to be
inferior (in my experience and that of all my buddies) to dipping the parts
prior to priming. If you are building a QB and intend to spray or sponge
the chromic acid compound on the completed aircraft, prior to paint, then
purchasing the liquid will be more economical. I would suggest that the
listers check with their local automotive paint supply store for these
chemicals before ordering it from ACS. No wait and the price will be
similar when the HazMAT shipping is factored in. I've never been charged
for HazMat shipping when I purchased the powder. Even for a builder in the
boonies, I think you could arrange a "group purchase" of 10 pounds of the
powder and save money. One person would simply have to take delivery and
distribute to the others. Just my opinion and worth what you paid for it! :-)
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
>
>True enough, especially if you need 100+ gallons. Or if you have enough
>friends that you can share it out, which really helps the expense. However,
>for those of us unfortunate enough to live in the 'boonies', it makes more
>sense to buy the liquid. Yes, the material cost is higher but the bottom
>line is lower. By the way, when I 'did the math', I used the actual price,
>which is $15-16 per gallon liquid vs. $858 for 60 lbs powder (Aircraft
>Spruce's only listed quantity for powder.) Fortunately for Ron, there is
>someone fairly nearby that can help him out.
>
>Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Muddling through without a builder's group, etc.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
><chaztuna@adelphia.net> RV-List Digest : chaztuna@adelphia.net
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Liquid versus powdered Alodine or Iridite was RV-List: Re:
>RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>--> RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
>
>Pat,
> At $1.66 per gallon for powder versus $20 to $27 per gallon liquid, there
>is NO good deal on liquid Alodine or Iridite. Do the math. Even buying 10
>pounds (minumum purchase quantity for powder. Enough to make 100
>- 130 gallons) of Iridite 14-2 at $166 is a better deal than buying 4-5
>gallons of liquid at the prices above.
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
> >
> >Aircraft Spruce has powdered alodine, but it's in a huge quantity. For
> >a more reasonable amount and cost, I had good luck with the liquid stuff.
> >
> >Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Flagstaff, AZ
> >
> >-----Original Message-----
> >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Burden
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Re: RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Burden" <crb@commspeed.net>
> >
> >Hi List,
> >
> >I am a new builder (RV7A empennage) in Cottonwood, AZ. I have been
> >unable to locate a reasonable source for powdered Alodine or Iridite
> >14-2. If any of you have some left over from your project that you
> >would like to sell and are within a few hours drive of northern Arizona,
>please let me know.
> >
> >Thanks in advance for your help,
> >
> >Ron
> >crb@commspeed .net
> >
> >
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fwd: Alodine Powder Purchasing |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Tim sent this to me directly. I'm posting it to the list.
Charlie Kuss
>Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2004 06:38:05 -0600
>From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
>X-Accept-Language: en-us, en
>To: chaztuna@adelphia.net, webmaster@flion.com, crb@commspeed.net
>Subject: Alodine Powder Purchasing
>
>Here's a post I put out on 10/11/2004 after finding out where I could
>get smaller quantities of alodine powder. I got mine from Eldorado.
>
>Having searched far and wide for alodine in powder form, I have now
>found 2 sources from other RV-10 builders, so here is a post with
>info just for future reference:
>
>----------------
>Crest Industrial Chemicals, Inc
>Crest 713 780-1828 or 800-833-8517 texas, 800-622-9006 US
>10 lb container of powder (PCC-6) $20/lb
>5 gallon container of concentrated liquid acid (Crest Acid Cleaner #12)
>Price Unknown
>
>The powder is mixed 1.2 to 2.5 ounces per gallon water and the acid is
>normally mixed 6 parts water to 1 acid. You can reach Crest directly at
>(405) 232-6577 and ask for Doug Bennett. He is their engineering expert.
>
>----------------
>Eldorado Chemical
>http://www.eldoradochem.com/
>contact: Travis Morgan
>Look under conversion coatings
>
>Dorado Kote 1 (DK-1)
>5lb pail = $87.52
>10lb pail = $149.08
>50 lb pail = $677.68
>
>fax a purchase order to 210-653-0825
>They do accept Visa, MC, and AMEX
>
>Also available are corrosion removers, and aluminum brightners.
>
>-----------------
>
>
>Hope this helps future builders with their search.
>Tim
>-=-=-
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>Wing Kit - In progress
>--
>Tim Olson -- RV-10 #170
>Tim@MyRV10.com
>Wing Kit - Almost Complete
>QB Fuse - Coming soon!
>'77 Sundowner - Flying
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Interesting and confusing. Here is yet another selected part copied from
the below referenced material: "it is not permissible in any instance to
use automotive fuel in aircraft engines, regardless of octane or advertised
features because of the corrosive effect of its chlorine content and because
of vapor lock that could result due to its high vapor pressure. Any fuel
used in Textron Lycoming engines must conform with Specifications ASTM-D910
or MIL-G-5572F.".......And I might add because it is so much cheaper..
Another copied reference from Lycoming for those of us who might be tempted
to use economical auto gas.......
"There has been trend toward using motor gasoline in aircraft engines.
Gasoline engines intended for use in aircraft were designed for and should
be run on one of the ASTM specified grades of aviation gasoline. Most major
engine manufacturers specifically exclude motor gasoline from the approved
fuels list. For a number of reasons, the use of motor gasoline in aircraft
in NOT recommended. Motor gasoline is manufactured to much looser
specifications than that of aviation gasoline. Quality and performance vary
widely from refiner to refiner and from location to location. Quality
control and quality ensurance in motor gasoline is much less stringent. The
risk of contamination is also greater due to less careful handling. Also,
many components of motor gasoline, especially detergents and oxygenated
fuels, are quite variable in type and proportion and are generally not known
or readily detectable. Motor gasoline has a much wider distillation pattern
than avgas. This can result in poor fuel distribution, poor anti-knock
component distribution, and excessive motor oil dilution. Motor gasoline is
generally more volatile than avgas and could lead to increased vapor-off,
vapor lock and carburetor icing. The anti-knock properties of motor gasoline
are also different. While the octane ratings appear similar in number, the
tests are conducted differently and are not comparable. The stability of
motor gasoline is also much lower than avgas. It WILL form "gum" much more
readily leading to deposits on fuel system and engine components. This can
result in fuel system malfunction, filter clogging, or engine problems such
as valve sticking. The presence of aromatic, or ring, hydrocarbons are not
limited as they are in avgas. Because of their solvent characteristics, they
may present problems to certain aircraft components. The presence of
oxygenated compounds is quite common in motor gasoline can cause
compatibility problems with fuel lines, seals, gaskets and fuel tank
materials. Oxygenated compounds also increase the tendency of fuel to hold
water. Also, many other additive that are permitted in motor gasoline are
not permitted in aviation gasoline. Some compounds used to control knock in
motor gasoline can result in more corrosive combustion products. Motor
gasoline today is also generally unleaded or of extremely low lead content.
This can lead to excessive valve and valve seat wear. One of the most basic
issues is safety. The quality of motor gasoline is not an issue in
automobile safety. The quality of fuel in aviation is of critical importance
to safety. Highest quality fuel can only be ensured through the use of ASTM
specification aviation gasoline. The responsibility for the consequences
resulting from the use of motor gasoline in aircraft is directly borne by
the owner or operator who chooses to do so. The possible risks to safety and
to aircraft engines and components are hardly outweighed by economic or
availability issues. The use of motor gasoline on aircraft is neither
recommended nor wise."
http://www.lycoming.textron.com/main.jsp?bodyPage=/support/publications/maintenance.html
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis " <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
>
> Thanks for all the responses on and off the list. I've never used Teflon
tape on my fuel
> system, so that's not a likely factor. With above freezing temps today I
encountered no
> problems flying from the right tank. I'm pretty confident fuel tank or
fuel line icing was the
> problem. I found no water in the tank when I sumped it, but that would be
consistent with the
> idea that the water only came out of solution at the much colder temps
encountered during the
> flight, and would have been reabsorbed when temps climbed.
>
> > I'm very
> > hesitant to use an automotive "dry gas" product. I've heard warnings
against using
> > these (mostly alcohol) products with aircraft.
>
> Here's an interesting note from Lycoming Service Instruction 1070M
>
(www.lycoming.textron.com/support/publications/maintenancePublications/servi
ceInstructions/SI1070M.pdf).
>
> "NOTE Isopropyl alcohol in amounts not to exceed 1% per volume may be
> added to the fuel to prevent ice formation in fuel lines and tanks.
Although
> approved for use in Textron Lycoming engines, isopropyl alcohol should not
> be used in the aircraft fuel systems unless recommended by the aircraft
> manufacturer."
>
> A caution I've found at multiple sources is that isopropyl alcohol is
often sold as
> 70/30 (30% water) solution, which is not what is needed. The "dry" (99+%
isopropyl
> alcohol), sometimes apparently found in "dry gas" automotive products) is
what's needed.
>
> Hoses, gascolator gaskets, and fuel filters will have to be checked for
compatability
> before use.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] special FWF nuts? |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
I just dug out my obviously seldomed used Standard Aircraft Handbook for mechanics
and technicians. Pg. 143 says a high temp self locking nut should be use
for areas ABOVE 250 degrees F. The nylon or fiber insert lock nuts are for applications
below 250.
So what's the temp of and around the engine mount where I want to clamp wires to
the mount? I'll bet it's below 250 unless there's a damn fire going on up there.
As for Van's kits, there are no references to AN363 in the on-line bag contents
files other than in the finish kit and those 2 are being referenced as being
replaced by a DIFFERENT nut alltogether!
BAG 914-3 GEAR LEG HARDWARE
2.000 NUT 1/4-20 SELF LOCK REPLACES: AN363-420 0.10
There are 4 MS21042 nuts in the fuse kit. Two -3 in bag 852 and two -4 in bag
887. Not going to cut it.
Oh well, annoying but not unexpected. Hopefully a local car shop sells something
similar if I decide to go the all metal way today...
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Any lock nut forward of the firewall (under the cowl) should be an all steel
> lock nut. There are some in the hardware in the kit, or you can order more from
> suppliers.
>
> Roberta
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: luckymacy@comcast.net
> To: RV-List ; RV yahoo
> Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 9:59 PM
> Subject: [VAF Mailing List] special FWF nuts?
>
>
>
> Are there special nuts I should be using for stuff like on the Adel clamps
> FWF? Are the nylon lock nuts taboo FWF?
>
> I notice in a couple of kits I got for FWF related stuff they used different
> style nuts but one thing they all did NOT have in common was nylon inserts.
>
> Thanks,
> lucky
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
>
>
> Get unlimited calls to
>
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>
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>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
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>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
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>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
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>
>
>
> Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
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>
I just dug out my obviously seldomed used Standard Aircraft Handbook for mechanics
and technicians. Pg. 143 says a high temp self locking nut should be use for
areas ABOVE 250 degrees F. The nylon or fiber insert lock nuts are for applications
below 250.
So what's the temp of and around the engine mount where I want to clamp wires to
the mount? I'll bet it's below 250 unless there's a damn fire going on up there.
As for Van's kits, there are no references to AN363 in the on-line bag contents
files other than in the finish kit and those 2 are being referenced as being
replaced by a DIFFERENT nut alltogether!
BAG 914-3 GEAR LEG HARDWARE
2.000 NUT 1/4-20 SELF LOCK REPLACES: AN363-420 0.10
There are 4 MS21042 nuts in the fuse kit. Two -3 in bag 852 and two -4 in bag 887.
Not going to cut it.
Oh well, annoying but not unexpected. Hopefully a local car shop sells something
similar if I decide to go the all metal way today...
Lucky
-------------- Original message --------------
Any lock nut forward of the firewall (under the cowl) should be an all steel
lock nut. There are some in the hardware in the kit, or you can order more from
suppliers.
Roberta
----- Original Message -----
From: luckymacy@comcast.net
To: RV-List ; RV yahoo
Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 9:59 PM
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] special FWF nuts?
Are there special nuts I should be using for stuff like on the Adel clamps
FWF? Are the nylon lock nuts taboo FWF?
I notice in a couple of kits I got for FWF related stuff they used different
style nuts but one thing they all did NOT have in common was nylon inserts.
Thanks,
lucky
[N
on-text portions of this message have been removed]
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
Get unlimited calls to
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Embree <rembree@sympatico.ca>
Kevin Horton wrote:
>>HUH? Tim, I hate to send you back to "problem solving 101", but fuel
>>and water don't mix at any temperature. What can happen, and has been
>>suggested, is that water collects in a low spot, which freezes and
>>blocks (or severely reduces) the fuel flow. The only way to get the
>>water out of the low spot is to use high pressure air to blow it out.
>>Do not use 'dri-gas' as it's mostly alcohol and will do harm to seals
>>and diaphragms.
>>Linn
>>
>>
>>
>But, if you are burning auto gas, as Tim was, there is a good chance
>that there is some alcohol in the fuel. The alcohol will carry water
>in solution. You can see this if you have a clear jar. Pour a bit of
>water in the jar, and mark where the top of the water is. Pour a bunch
>of auto gas in the jar, stir it up, then let it sit. If there is
>alcohol in it, you'll see that the line between the water and gas is
>lower than where the top of the water is. Some of the water has been
>absorbed into the alcohol.
>
>If you try this with avgas, the line between the water and the gas
>should be where the top of the water was before you poured the gas in
>the jar.
>
>Kevin Horton
>
>
>
>
Tim,
You might have a good understanding of how the solubility of water in
gasoline changes with temperature but this link explains it better than
I can.
http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/rfg/waterphs.pdf
Some years ago when there was a discussion on the use of fuel filters
rather than gascolators I expressed concern after finding ice crystals
when draining the sumps. There can be very large swings in daily
temperatures in Alberta and it was during the -30 C periods that I
would find the crystals. I feel that this could be enough to plug a
filter under the right conditions. I'm not sure what you have in your
fuel system, however, looking at the physics a little closer might
explain it. I also use auto fuel but always buy from one of the major
brand companys.
Roger Embree
C-GIRH
Message 10
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| Subject: | Crosswind Limits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
I'm an RV FNG (0.0 hours) but have a lot of military jet time. The
crosswind limits on the A-4 with spoilers deployed were 25 kts
symmetrical and 15 kts assymetrical. Those upper limits were a handful
in landing a 13,000 lb. tricycle gear delta wing jet. Do most RV pilots
have a 20+ kt crosswind limit? I would have guessed the number was less
- maybe 15 - 20 kts.
Paul Valovich
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Crosswind Limits |
--> RV-List message posted by: Derrick Aubuchon <n184da@volcano.net>
In my RV4, I have found that I will "run out of rudder" at 15kts of
crosswind component at normal approach speeds.
So for me, when I hear that the crosswind component is in the 10-15kt
range, I am definitely at my best behavior.
Anything above 15kts,, and I won't even bother.
Remember,, I am speaking of crosswind components,,
And I realize that "mileage" may vary from aircraft to aircraft,, pilot
to pilot,,
These are just my personal limits.
Derrick L. Aubuchon
RV-4: N184DA (400hrs)
Westover -Amador County (O70)
n184da@volcano.net
On Dec 27, 2004, at 7:39 AM, Valovich, Paul wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
>
> I'm an RV FNG (0.0 hours) but have a lot of military jet time. The
> crosswind limits on the A-4 with spoilers deployed were 25 kts
> symmetrical and 15 kts assymetrical. Those upper limits were a handful
> in landing a 13,000 lb. tricycle gear delta wing jet. Do most RV pilots
> have a 20+ kt crosswind limit? I would have guessed the number was less
> - maybe 15 - 20 kts.
>
> Paul Valovich
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
> No tail-dragger fliers were anywhere near the airport, probably hiding at
> home. ;o).
((((( **OR** Could this possibly be because they are just a bit better
pilot than the average nose wheeler. Maybe they were ScareD, respectful
of forces greater than theirs. Maybe they were home building a larger
rudder.
Congratulations to all those who handled 25kt gusts and made it. For any of
us wanting to up the bar of cross wind/gust records, remember that luck
could be a factor. Maybe those succeeding only got a 24kt gust during their
15 seconds of critical time, maybe 23, maybe 20 -- who's to say what
actually touched their plane? We only know what the gusts were at the wind
sensoring equipment. Gusts are not consistent across all parts of the
airport. I am not saying those are not skilled FLYERS. Skill certainly has
a lot to do with it, but it does not hurt to be lucky -- that is what I am
saying. What if a gust not earlier predicted/seen, say 30kt occurred at
just the wrong moment/place when expecting 25kts? -- one day you WILL find
your personal limit if you keep looking for it....and then what.........
You still will not know for sure what it is. Being a skilled PILOT might be
something to admire just as well -- respecting when not to fly *or* to land
some other airport with a runway more agreeable with the winds.
Advice from this novice tailwheeler: Keep expanding your maximum
crosswind/gust component and one day you WILL find it....and then
what......... Higher insurance rates!! My plan: I will seek not to
expand/find my limit.
OK, body armor on. .......why did I put myself into this....must be the
snow..... {:-(( Fly safer. :
)
////
(o o)
==========o00o=(_)=o00o==========
do not archive SunSeeker Larry in Indiana with an RV7 (under 18" of
now) )))))
>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind
> --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
>
>
> Charles Heathco wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
> >
> > Had a wild ride coming back into LZU this afternoon. Atis report
330-16,
> > G-23, landing 25. very turbulent. Had to touch down long at better than
> 90mp
> > indicated with some crab as coulndnt take it all out with ruder and
stay
> in
> > neighborhood of middle. Had rt wing down as low as i dared. I would
> venture
> > that gusts were stronger as at about 100-150' plane whipped from about
a
> 40d
> > crab to nearly sideways before I could counter it. I have 22 hrs in
Tweety
> > bird now, glad it didn't happen early on. Since we don't have a max
> > demonstrated xwind figure as a standard I was wondering what some of
the
> > more experienced 6A drivers had managed or would consider max X-wind
for
> our
> > planes. Charlie heathco
>
>
> ==============================
>
> Charlie-
>
> 25kts direct cross is about my limit and it certainly helps if it's
steady.
> I had this situation going into Henderson NV on 12/23 and it was
> interesting, but still quite safe. We were getting tumbleweed status
reports on
> approach.
>
> No tail-dragger fliers were anywhere near the airport, probably hiding at
> home. ;o).
> GV (RV-6A N1GV, Flying 736hrs)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
The Lycoming reports that Larry posted can be quite scarey, to say the
least. I guess if I were producing engines and had the liability they have
to contend with, I'd try to scare people off from inovative things, as well.
Alas, that has kept many from enjoying the virtues of using mogas in our
airplanes.
Granted, not all of us can use mogas because of our engine configurations,
alcohol in the fuel, etc.; but, a large number of us can and do. In fact,
Father FAA has approved it for use in many commercially built aircraft. If
it were so dangerous to use, I'm betting the FAA would not have approved its
use. Thankfully, they were open minded enough to give it a go. With that,
I've been able to operate my aircraft with mogas for almost 18 years and
over 1500 engine hours. The result has been cheaper operating costs, clean
plugs, and none of the problems other than vapor locking that was described
in the report. Let me say that the vapor locking had been no big deal,
either.
One thing keeps haunting me. I believe the fuel line freeze up happened on
one flight after the autogas had been used with no problems. After a fill
up, that tank froze up on 100LL after almost a full tank of mogas had been
used. That lead me to believe it may not have been the mogas that was the
problem. Maybe it was; but, it had me second guessing the fuel type at
fault.
In the 18 years I've been using autogas, and very little 100LL, I've never
had a fuel line freeze up from auto gas. In fact, I rarely see water in the
gas except when it rains and gets past the flush caps. If I keep those
lubed, it doesn't get in. Maybe I've just been lucky; but, I don't think
so.
If the FAA has anything to do with it, we'll all be using no lead gas, one
day. I hope the engine manufacturers are ready, by then.
Jim Sears in KY
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
LarryRobertHelming wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
>>No tail-dragger fliers were anywhere near the airport, probably hiding at
>>home. ;o).
>
>
> ((((( **OR** Could this possibly be because they are just a bit better
> pilot than the average nose wheeler. Maybe they were ScareD, respectful
> of forces greater than theirs. Maybe they were home building a larger
> rudder.
>
> Congratulations to all those who handled 25kt gusts and made it. For any of
> us wanting to up the bar of cross wind/gust records, remember that luck
> could be a factor. Maybe those succeeding only got a 24kt gust during their
> 15 seconds of critical time, maybe 23, maybe 20 -- who's to say what
> actually touched their plane? We only know what the gusts were at the wind
> sensoring equipment. Gusts are not consistent across all parts of the
> airport. I am not saying those are not skilled FLYERS. Skill certainly has
> a lot to do with it, but it does not hurt to be lucky -- that is what I am
> saying. What if a gust not earlier predicted/seen, say 30kt occurred at
> just the wrong moment/place when expecting 25kts? -- one day you WILL find
> your personal limit if you keep looking for it....and then what.........
> You still will not know for sure what it is. Being a skilled PILOT might be
> something to admire just as well -- respecting when not to fly *or* to land
> some other airport with a runway more agreeable with the winds.
>
> Advice from this novice tailwheeler: Keep expanding your maximum
> crosswind/gust component and one day you WILL find it....and then
> what......... Higher insurance rates!! My plan: I will seek not to
> expand/find my limit.
I make no claims at being a particularly skilled pilot and I have
certainly enjoyed my share of "luck". No doubt several hundred hours
spent landing very light aircraft and a J-3 in gusty conditions have
instilled a bit more confidence in crosswinds than was present when I
was truly a novice taildragger pilot.
I'm not sure how we can find our "personal limits" without cautiously
expanding our skills. My crosswind landings are conducted with one hand
firmly on the throttle and the mindset that if anything gets out of
hand, the throttle hand goes forward and I'm outa there (and I've done
that a few times).
My reference to the AWOS-reported 19 gusting 26 crosswind was only to
qualify my reply to the original poster. Making the final determination
on whether or not to tackle a crosswind has to be based on what is
happening to the plane on final and how much the controls are being
cranked in order to persuade the aircraft to do what we want.
And that comes from getting out there and bouncing around on windy days. :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic with small rudder and well-scuffed tires)
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Ice formation in auto fuel in flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
I guess I should apologize to Tim ..... I just don't consider gasoline
with alcohol (or ethanol or the other 'ol's) as being viable aircraft
fuel. The STCs for using auto fuel in aircraft specifically prohibit
autofuel with alcohol. My bad. In our homebuilts, I suppose that you
can use whatever fuel you want, but alcohol will deteriorate seals,
hoses, and diaphragms, and is not an acceptable risk for me. Thanks
Roger for that link ..... it's a good one!!!
Linn
do not archive
Roger Embree wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Embree <rembree@sympatico.ca>
>
>Kevin Horton wrote:
>
>
>
>>>HUH? Tim, I hate to send you back to "problem solving 101", but fuel
>>>and water don't mix at any temperature. What can happen, and has been
>>>suggested, is that water collects in a low spot, which freezes and
>>>blocks (or severely reduces) the fuel flow. The only way to get the
>>>water out of the low spot is to use high pressure air to blow it out.
>>>Do not use 'dri-gas' as it's mostly alcohol and will do harm to seals
>>>and diaphragms.
>>>Linn
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>But, if you are burning auto gas, as Tim was, there is a good chance
>>that there is some alcohol in the fuel. The alcohol will carry water
>>in solution. You can see this if you have a clear jar. Pour a bit of
>>water in the jar, and mark where the top of the water is. Pour a bunch
>>of auto gas in the jar, stir it up, then let it sit. If there is
>>alcohol in it, you'll see that the line between the water and gas is
>>lower than where the top of the water is. Some of the water has been
>>absorbed into the alcohol.
>>
>>If you try this with avgas, the line between the water and the gas
>>should be where the top of the water was before you poured the gas in
>>the jar.
>>
>>Kevin Horton
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>Tim,
>
>You might have a good understanding of how the solubility of water in
>gasoline changes with temperature but this link explains it better than
>I can.
>
>http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/rfg/waterphs.pdf
>
>Some years ago when there was a discussion on the use of fuel filters
>rather than gascolators I expressed concern after finding ice crystals
>when draining the sumps. There can be very large swings in daily
>temperatures in Alberta and it was during the -30 C periods that I
>would find the crystals. I feel that this could be enough to plug a
>filter under the right conditions. I'm not sure what you have in your
>fuel system, however, looking at the physics a little closer might
>explain it. I also use auto fuel but always buy from one of the major
>brand companys.
>
>Roger Embree
>C-GIRH
>
>
>
>
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 16
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Digest": 20.Msgs.-.12/23/04@matronics.com
Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
--> RV-List message posted by: PJ Seipel <seipel@seznam.cz>
A couple of us RV-10 builders did the research on this a while back,
Spruce has it because I requested they start selling it, and they bought
some before they realized it's hazardous. They've only got that 60lb
pail in stock and they'll only sell it complete, they won't divide it
up. (too hazardous, they decided they didn't want to be in the
repackaging business for something like that.)
You can try www.eldoradochem.com for powdered alodine. They call it
Dorado Kote. Website doesn't have a ton of info, but they respond
quickly to email, and they take credit cards. I bought from them and
the stuff works great.
Dorado Kote 1 (DK-1)
5lb pail = $87.52
10lb pail = $149.08
PJ
RV-10
Patrick Kelley wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
>
>True enough, especially if you need 100+ gallons. Or if you have enough
>friends that you can share it out, which really helps the expense. However,
>for those of us unfortunate enough to live in the 'boonies', it makes more
>sense to buy the liquid. Yes, the material cost is higher but the bottom
>line is lower. By the way, when I 'did the math', I used the actual price,
>which is $15-16 per gallon liquid vs. $858 for 60 lbs powder (Aircraft
>Spruce's only listed quantity for powder.) Fortunately for Ron, there is
>someone fairly nearby that can help him out.
>
>Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - Muddling through without a builder's group, etc.
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
><chaztuna@adelphia.net> RV-List Digest : chaztuna@adelphia.net
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Liquid versus powdered Alodine or Iridite was RV-List: Re:
>RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>--> RV-List Digest: 20 Msgs - 12/23/04
>
>Pat,
> At $1.66 per gallon for powder versus $20 to $27 per gallon liquid, there
>is NO good deal on liquid Alodine or Iridite. Do the math. Even buying 10
>pounds (minumum purchase quantity for powder. Enough to make 100
>- 130 gallons) of Iridite 14-2 at $166 is a better deal than buying 4-5
>gallons of liquid at the prices above.
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Stubborn RV-7 Tail Spring/Mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
I'm building an RV-7 and am working on my QB fuselage. As shipped to me the
tail spring mount assembly is already drilled and assembled, though the bolt
is not torqued (or even tightened). I thought it would be most convenient
to slip that bolt out and separate the two parts for fitting the mount into
the tailcone of the fuselage (but sliding the assembly back together to make
_sure_ everything is straight before I drilled).
The trick is getting the two apart. I called Van's and was advised that a
little oil and a wood block with a mallet would do the trick. I was told
that it was a tight fit, but not officially a "press fit". However, the
guy on the phone also said that there isn't REALLY any reason to take it
all apart and I could just assemble it as is.
I took that at face value for a bit, but then thought that in the end I
would like to have had it apart at least once before assembling it into
the plane where getting it apart might be more ... challenging. If I really
need to resort to pounding with a hammer now, how might I get it all apart
later if I have to perform some maintainence? (At least that is the
question that came to mind.)
So .... am I being paranoid? Should I just accept that it isn't easy to
get apart and just worry about it if/when the day comes I have to pull it
apart after assembly? Is there something I'm missing about getting these
two parts apart? (And, yes, I took the bolt out. *grin*) I am using a
lightweight hammer ... so do I just need to get my 2.5lb sledge out and
REALLY WAIL AT IT instead?
Oh, and one other issue is that it is a tight fit (front to back) in my
garage already ... and having that tail spring sticking out is a sure
recipe for barked shins. I hate it when I do that, too.
I've got plenty to do while I wait for the sage advice from the list. I
have to drill out the pop rivets holding the back bulkhead on, and I have
to cut a "mouse hole" for the tail spring. But eventually I have to fit
that tail spring mount and maybe by then youse guys will have come up
with some really good advice. Thanks, in advance, for your help! :)
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 18
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| Subject: | Empennage Kit Received: Now to start another primer battle... |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
My -8 tail kit arrived today. I started wandering through the archive
looking for the latest thoughts on priming parts. It appears that
Sherwin-Williams GBP 988 may be a good option.
Without intending to start the primer wars, what other options are out
there? I'd prefer single part applications vice two-part mixes, but am
open to suggestion. For the climate question, I'm located in Northern
Virginia (JYO).
- Alan
RV-8 Empennage still in the box...
Message 19
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| Subject: | Empennage Kit Received: Now to start another primer battle... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
I started with the GBP988 and have been using the DuPont VariPrime (2 part, but
1 to 1 mix that is very easy to use). The 988 is ok for short quick fixes, but
only in areas where there is not going to be any abrasion of surfaces, i.e.
inspection panels because it scratches off very easily even after several days
of drying. The VariPrime seems to be much stronger and actually is easier to
apply...I follow the Orndorffs lead by just cleaning with laquer thinner then
shooting the self etching primer...flashes in about 10 minutes.
BTW, I am in Gainesville, VA and you can get VariPrime at Mattos Auto finishes
in Manassas off Rt. 28. Don't be shocked by the price, it runs about $65 for
2 quarts worth of paint. It has gotten me through the empennage though...just
about!
Will
#91056
http://home.comcast.net/~wcouv/
Message 20
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| Subject: | Price Increase - Answers from Van's |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
Well, the wings are on order!!!!
The other news here is that according to Van's sales dept., if you
give them your credit card information, circle "yes" on the final
payment portion AND WRITE IN THAT YOU WISH TO BE CHARGED TO TOTAL
AMOUNT PRIOR TO DEC 31ST, you will lock in the current rates and
everything will be fine.
Also, there are NO changes to the kit...at least the RV9 Wings kit,
for 2005 and the difference is purely due to cost of aluminum.
Thanks for all the responses and help, looking forward to moving on
to my new wings!!! :)
Will #91056
http://home.comcast.net/~wcouv/
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Stubborn RV-7 Tail Spring/Mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I have inserted my responses in with yours. See (((((( my text ))))))).
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
The sincerest satisfactions in life come in doing and not dodging duty;
in meeting and solving problems, in facing facts;
in flying a virgin plane never flown before.
- Richard L. Evans & Larry R Helming
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
>
> I'm building an RV-7 and am working on my QB fuselage. As shipped to me
the
> tail spring mount assembly is already drilled and assembled, though the
bolt
> is not torqued (or even tightened). I thought it would be most convenient
> to slip that bolt out and separate the two parts for fitting the mount
into
> the tailcone of the fuselage (but sliding the assembly back together to
make
> _sure_ everything is straight before I drilled).
>
> The trick is getting the two apart. I called Van's and was advised that a
> little oil and a wood block with a mallet would do the trick. I was told
> that it was a tight fit, but not officially a "press fit". However, the
> guy on the phone also said that there isn't REALLY any reason to take it
> all apart and I could just assemble it as is. ((( I'd trust Vans on this
advice.Don't do more than you have to. ))))
>
> I took that at face value for a bit, but then thought that in the end I
> would like to have had it apart at least once before assembling it into
> the plane where getting it apart might be more ... challenging. If I
really
> need to resort to pounding with a hammer now, how might I get it all apart
> later if I have to perform some maintainence? (At least that is the
> question that came to mind.) ((((Later it will solidly mounted in the
plane and it will be easier to tap/hammer to remove. Don't forget to use
the wood mallet/block. Be happy that your fit is very tight. You might
want to read some of the latest TW things Dan Checkaway has had to deal with
regarding TW spring.)))))))))))
>
> So .... am I being paranoid? Should I just accept that it isn't easy to
> get apart and just worry about it if/when the day comes I have to pull it
> apart after assembly? Is there something I'm missing about getting these
> two parts apart? (And, yes, I took the bolt out. *grin*) I am using a
> lightweight hammer ... so do I just need to get my 2.5lb sledge out and
> REALLY WAIL AT IT instead? (((((((((IF YOU JUST GOT TO DO IT, I'd spray
some WR40 or other penetrant on it for a few days to help it before getting
too strong with it. It is a tight fit and that is what you want. See Dan
Checkaway comment again for what can happen when things get a bit
untight.)))))))))
>
> Oh, and one other issue is that it is a tight fit (front to back) in my
> garage already ... and having that tail spring sticking out is a sure
> recipe for barked shins. I hate it when I do that, too. ((((Get some
bright orange tape or fasten some cardboard/sponge on to it to avoid running
into it.)))))))
>
> I've got plenty to do while I wait for the sage advice from the list. I
> have to drill out the pop rivets holding the back bulkhead on, and I have
> to cut a "mouse hole" for the tail spring. But eventually I have to fit
> that tail spring mount and maybe by then youse guys will have come up
> with some really good advice. Thanks, in advance, for your help! :)
((((((((( I can't help you with fitting it after the fuse is put together as
in the QB. One of the advantages/disadvantagews of the slow build approach
I guess. Larry in Indiana)))))))))
>
> -- Dwight
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | RV6A max demonstrated X-wind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
A few comments from back here in the cheap seats...
With all due respect, as a cfi and moderately experienced tailwheel pilot
I'd really, really recommend against ever setting a light plane down witout
the wheels aligned with the runway and the plane tracking down the runway.
Only exception would be a where you're in a very bad predicament (i.e., near
emergency situation). Even those operating a plane with the tailwheel on
the nose (trike) can groundloop or tear the gear out of the plane. Not to
mention the tire wear. If you can't get it aligned, go somewhere else. Of
course this doesn't always apply to large, transport types.
Always take out the drift. While flying my -8, I've probably done a 20-22
kt crosswind component 3 - 5 times. Wasn't fun, but was very managable.
Never felt like I was anywhere close to dragging a wingtip.
Just felt compelled to chime in here. I'm not an armchair rv'er. Got about
50-60 hrs in trike rv's and 750 or so in conventional gear rv's. they are
some of the most honest planes I've flown, but I'd strongly advise against
ever landing misaligned.
just my 2 cent, meant only to help.
Bryan Jones
-8, cfi
Houston
>indicated with some crab as coulndnt take it all out with ruder and stay in
>neighborhood of middle. Had rt wing down as low as i dared. I would venture
>that gusts were stronger as at about 100-150' plane whipped from about a
>40d
>crab to nearly sideways befor I could counter it. I have 22 hrs in Tweety
>bird now, glad it didnt happen early on. Since we dont have a max
>demonstrated xwind figure as a standard I was wondering what some of the
>more experienced 6A drivers had managed or would consider max X-wind for
>our
>planes. Charlie heathco
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | RV6A max demonstrated X-wind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Sam's right....
I have landed my -6 in lot's of wind, some more than I would care to do
again. I have an archived post somewhere around here from a trip to South
Dakota (VERY windy) which was the worst I've done. I try not to be scared
of wind, because you never know when you'll find it. On the aformentioned
trip to SoDak, the winds were forecast to only be about 10-15kts, but when I
arrived they were well over 25kts.
That being said, you SHOULD be comfortable in some windy conditions or don't
fly Cross Country. I have a scrape on the bottom of one wingtip from a
particularly windy xwind landing (I'm not proud of that by the way), but
proof in point that sometimes you run into wind you didn't think would be
there.
The most important thing Sam points out is to have that hand ON THE THROTTLE
ready to "try again". Personally, I have no problem going around and trying
things again, and in bad winds I've taken 3 or more tries to get the thing
on the ground comfortably. If things don't feel right or I can't keep it
where I want, I hit the throttle and do it again. These RV's will LEAP into
the air quickly, so with a few exceptions there is really no excuse for
looping these things. I guess the whole point is DON'T try to force these
type of things, if anything starts feeling wrong/squirrly/sideways, then for
God sakes, get airborne and try it again!
I have the small "old" rudder, and can easily run out of travel at about
20kts. Over that and I'm working pretty hard. My new RV6 has the large RV9
rudder on it and handles the winds like a dream compared to the old small
tail. Now that doesn't mean I go hunting out bad winds, because landing is
only part of the problem. You have to be able to taxi to where your going
when after your down. Some of us keep our planes at airports with no cross
runway and not even into the prevailing wind, so we get used to crosswinds
almost all the time. Add that to having trees at one end, and buildings
along part of the runway and you never know what the wind is actually doing
on the ground.
In the end, I see some of the 6A drivers that fly on days I just prefer not
to (I hate having a sore leg after holding that rudder all the way over
after a couple of approaches), but for the most part both the nose wheels
and t/d's handle most "normal" winds quite well.
As said before, you have to be comfortable with yourself and don't try to do
things just because someone else does/can. I'm no super pilot and prefer
not to fly in bad winds, clouds, rain, snow, etc... so take my advice (or
lack of) for what it's worth.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
I make no claims at being a particularly skilled pilot and I have
certainly enjoyed my share of "luck". No doubt several hundred hours
spent landing very light aircraft and a J-3 in gusty conditions have
instilled a bit more confidence in crosswinds than was present when I
was truly a novice taildragger pilot.
I'm not sure how we can find our "personal limits" without cautiously
expanding our skills. My crosswind landings are conducted with one hand
firmly on the throttle and the mindset that if anything gets out of
hand, the throttle hand goes forward and I'm outa there (and I've done
that a few times).
My reference to the AWOS-reported 19 gusting 26 crosswind was only to
qualify my reply to the original poster. Making the final determination
on whether or not to tackle a crosswind has to be based on what is
happening to the plane on final and how much the controls are being
cranked in order to persuade the aircraft to do what we want.
And that comes from getting out there and bouncing around on windy days. :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 Classic with small rudder and well-scuffed tires)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Crosswind Limits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>I'm an RV FNG (0.0 hours) but have a lot of military jet time. The
>crosswind limits on the A-4 with spoilers deployed were 25 kts
>symmetrical and 15 kts assymetrical. Those upper limits were a handful
>in landing a 13,000 lb. tricycle gear delta wing jet. Do most RV pilots
>have a 20+ kt crosswind limit? I would have guessed the number was less
>- maybe 15 - 20 kts.
On the typical day, I think your numbers are reasonable. I've done more out
of a gras strip. IMO, the critical issue with an RV versus a jet is the
gusts. Smooth crosswinds are cake. The gusts are the monster. Check out
the lay of the airport before committing - hangers, trees, building upwind
of the runway.
Although I've flown -4, -6A, -9A I don't have a feel for the rudder
effectiveness in extreme crosswind landing situations. I've never run out
of rudder with the -8 and have done 20-22 kt crosswind component in a couple
of instances.
Bryan Jones
Message 25
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| Subject: | Crosswind Limits |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Paul:
I use 20 Kts as my crosswind limit.
I have landed with 22 Kts and gusts of 38 Kt at 80 degrees at Staint George,
UT. Damaged the wheel pants but not the airplane when the airplane got
going sideways.
Another time, I did a go around and landed elsewhere with a 15 Kt 90 degree
crosswinds at Huntsville, AL.
Airplane was at heavy both times and had a passagner.
Both times I was low on fuel. Low on fuel as in having less than 1.5 hours
to dry tanks. (apx 10 gallons usable)
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,617 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
Subject: RV-List: Crosswind Limits
--> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
I'm an RV FNG (0.0 hours) but have a lot of military jet time. The
crosswind limits on the A-4 with spoilers deployed were 25 kts
symmetrical and 15 kts assymetrical. Those upper limits were a handful
in landing a 13,000 lb. tricycle gear delta wing jet. Do most RV pilots
have a 20+ kt crosswind limit? I would have guessed the number was less
- maybe 15 - 20 kts.
Paul Valovich
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Empennage Kit Received: Now to start another primer battle... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> My -8 tail kit arrived today. I started wandering through the archive
> looking for the latest thoughts on priming parts. It appears that
> Sherwin-Williams GBP 988 may be a good option.
>
> Without intending to start the primer wars, what other options are out
> there? I'd prefer single part applications vice two-part mixes, but am
> open to suggestion. For the climate question, I'm located in Northern
> Virginia (JYO).
On my first RV I used the SW products including the GBP 988. On my current
project I'm using SEM and like it much better. Info can be found here...
http://www.romeolima.com/RV3works/Airframe/airframe.htm#Primer
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] special FWF nuts? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Just my 2 cents worth re these nuts. My Cherokee carb heat muff on exaust
pipes were installed with plastic/nylon lock nuts. I replaced them with
metal lock nuts when I did a rebuild, but the plastic ones were in good
working order. Away from pipes is perfectly ok I think, charlie heatjhco
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Re: [VAF Mailing List] special FWF nuts?
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> I just dug out my obviously seldomed used Standard Aircraft Handbook for
> mechanics and technicians. Pg. 143 says a high temp self locking nut
> should be use for areas ABOVE 250 degrees F. The nylon or fiber insert
> lock nuts are for applications below 250.
>
> So what's the temp of and around the engine mount where I want to clamp
> wires to the mount? I'll bet it's below 250 unless there's a damn fire
> going on up there.
>
> As for Van's kits, there are no references to AN363 in the on-line bag
> contents files other than in the finish kit and those 2 are being
> referenced as being replaced by a DIFFERENT nut alltogether!
>
> BAG 914-3 GEAR LEG HARDWARE
> 2.000 NUT 1/4-20 SELF LOCK REPLACES: AN363-420 0.10
>
> There are 4 MS21042 nuts in the fuse kit. Two -3 in bag 852 and two -4 in
> bag 887. Not going to cut it.
>
> Oh well, annoying but not unexpected. Hopefully a local car shop sells
> something similar if I decide to go the all metal way today...
>
> Lucky
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>>
>>
>> Any lock nut forward of the firewall (under the cowl) should be an all
>> steel
>> lock nut. There are some in the hardware in the kit, or you can order
>> more from
>> suppliers.
>>
>> Roberta
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: luckymacy@comcast.net
>> To: RV-List ; RV yahoo
>> Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 9:59 PM
>> Subject: [VAF Mailing List] special FWF nuts?
>>
>>
>>
>> Are there special nuts I should be using for stuff like on the Adel
>> clamps
>> FWF? Are the nylon lock nuts taboo FWF?
>>
>> I notice in a couple of kits I got for FWF related stuff they used
>> different
>> style nuts but one thing they all did NOT have in common was nylon
>> inserts.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> lucky
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Online help on this group at:
>> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Get unlimited calls to
>>
>> U.S./Canada
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>>
>> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
>> http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>>
>> Online help on this group at:
>> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>>
>>
>> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
>> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>>
>> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>>
>> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> I just dug out my obviously seldomed used Standard Aircraft Handbook for
> mechanics and technicians. Pg. 143 says a high temp self locking nut
> should be use for areas ABOVE 250 degrees F. The nylon or fiber insert
> lock nuts are for applications below 250.
>
> So what's the temp of and around the engine mount where I want to clamp
> wires to the mount? I'll bet it's below 250 unless there's a damn fire
> going on up there.
>
> As for Van's kits, there are no references to AN363 in the on-line bag
> contents files other than in the finish kit and those 2 are being
> referenced as being replaced by a DIFFERENT nut alltogether!
>
> BAG 914-3 GEAR LEG HARDWARE
> 2.000 NUT 1/4-20 SELF LOCK REPLACES: AN363-420 0.10
>
> There are 4 MS21042 nuts in the fuse kit. Two -3 in bag 852 and two -4 in
> bag 887. Not going to cut it.
>
> Oh well, annoying but not unexpected. Hopefully a local car shop sells
> something similar if I decide to go the all metal way today...
>
> Lucky
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
>
> Any lock nut forward of the firewall (under the cowl) should be an all
> steel
> lock nut. There are some in the hardware in the kit, or you can order more
> from
> suppliers.
>
> Roberta
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: luckymacy@comcast.net
> To: RV-List ; RV yahoo
> Sent: Sunday, December 26, 2004 9:59 PM
> Subject: [VAF Mailing List] special FWF nuts?
>
>
> Are there special nuts I should be using for stuff like on the Adel clamps
> FWF? Are the nylon lock nuts taboo FWF?
>
> I notice in a couple of kits I got for FWF related stuff they used
> different
> style nuts but one thing they all did NOT have in common was nylon
> inserts.
>
> Thanks,
> lucky
>
> [N
> on-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> Get unlimited calls to
>
> U.S./Canada
>
>
> a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> Sponsor --------------------~--
> Now with Pop-Up Blocker. Get it for free!
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/L5YrjA/eSIIAA/yQLSAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> * To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> * To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> Congratulations to all those who handled 25kt gusts and made it. For any
of
> us wanting to up the bar of cross wind/gust records, remember that luck
> could be a factor. Maybe those succeeding only got a 24kt gust during
their
> 15 seconds of critical time, maybe 23, maybe 20 -- who's to say what
> actually touched their plane? We only know what the gusts were at the
wind
> sensoring equipment. Gusts are not consistent across all parts of the
> airport. I am not saying those are not skilled FLYERS. Skill certainly
has
> a lot to do with it, but it does not hurt to be lucky -- that is what I am
> saying. What if a gust not earlier predicted/seen, say 30kt occurred at
> just the wrong moment/place when expecting 25kts? -- one day you WILL find
> your personal limit if you keep looking for it....and then what.........
> You still will not know for sure what it is. Being a skilled PILOT might
be
> something to admire just as well -- respecting when not to fly *or* to
land
> some other airport with a runway more agreeable with the winds.
>
> Advice from this novice tailwheeler: Keep expanding your maximum
> crosswind/gust component and one day you WILL find it....and then
> what......... Higher insurance rates!! My plan: I will seek not to
> expand/find my limit.
After years of reading posts on this subject on this list, and extrapolating
what I felt I could handle in my RV-8 based on successful landings in 10-15
kt crosswinds, I figured my personal limit would be 20 kts also. So one day
with ASOS indicating a 16 kt crosswind at exactly 90 degree to the runway I
landed. Even though the ASOS did not indicate gusts on the broadcast just
prior to landing I could tell from the nearby water that it was gusting.
Made it down nicely using all the standard techniques, but got nailed by a
much stronger gust AFTER most of my forward speed had decayed, was moving
forward at only 25-30 mph. A fair amount of damage resulted, details at
http://www.rv-8.com/Flying.htm#The%20final%20chapter. Quite a helpless
feeling... too slow for rudder to be effective, it hit too fast to use the
throttle, and I was probably too slow to deploy differential braking. Not
sure if that would have helped though because the gust skidded my
still-locked tailwheel across the wet pavement quite rapidly. Yes, I've been
lucky before too, but not that day.
Anyway, my point is that I agree with the above comments, there are LOTS of
variables and we should allow some margin for them. I haven't decided what
my NEW personal xwind limit will be with the RV-3B I'm building, I'll need
to get a feel for it first in some 10-15 kt winds first, but it will likely
be lower than before just because of the "unexpected" factor.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
EAA Technical Counselor
EAA Flight Advisor
Message 29
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| Subject: | Radio/Intercom interference with engine issue |
rv-list@matronics.com, aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I have an interesting issue. I am flying my friends RV-7, this is the
second flight. I had the throttle basically full (breaking in the engine) and
the
radio progressively seemed to get worse (over a 515 minute period) with
static when receiving transmissions from ATC. It got so bad, I could barely hear
him. He said he had no issues hearing me. I told him I was going to come
in for a full stop, pulled back the throttle, and could hear fine once again.
So I called the controller and told him I was going to go around again and
once I gave it over about 75% power, the radio once again had a bunch of
static (only when receiving transmissions).
The plane has a PS Engineering PM1000 intercom, Garmin 430 radio, and a
Headsets Inc ANR in a Dave Clark 13.4 headset. It also has a Lightspeed
electronic ignition on the right mag. I did a mag check in the air and it did
not
seem to make a difference.
I pulled and reseated the headset plugs and that did not fix the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas what to check? We had no issues on the first
flight. Thanks in advance!
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Tailcone Complete, working on wings
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: <turboz@cox.net>
Has anyone ordered tools from planetools.com? I would like to hear about any good
or bad experiences you may have had. If not appropriate for the list you are
welcome to contact me directly.
Thanks
Eric
Phoenix, Az
RV-7
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Radio/Intercom interference with engine issue |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
On Dec 27, 2004, at 4:54 PM, N223RV@aol.com wrote:
> t over about 75% power, the radio once again had a bunch of
> static (only when receiving transmissions).
>
> The plane has a PS Engineering PM1000 intercom, Garmin 430 radio, and a
> Headsets Inc ANR in a Dave Clark 13.4 headset. It also has a
> Lightspeed
> electronic ignition on the right mag. I did a mag check in the air
> and it did not
> seem to make a difference.
>
> I pulled and reseated the headset plugs and that did not fix the
> issue.
>
>
My first guess would be something breaking squelch on the intercom. I
have had the symptoms you describe in a four place airplane, caused by
a back seat headset leaning on the cabin wall and the vibrations
breaking the squelch. If everything works OK on the ground, and you
have no other headsets plugged in, try reducing the mic gain if
possible. At least one of my headsets has a tiny pot on it for this
very reason, although I haven't used it (or checked) on the others.
James Freeman
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
On 27-Dec-04, at 5:05 PM, Randy Lervold wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
>> Congratulations to all those who handled 25kt gusts and made it. For
>> any
> of
>> us wanting to up the bar of cross wind/gust records, remember that
>> luck
>> could be a factor. Maybe those succeeding only got a 24kt gust during
> their
>> 15 seconds of critical time, maybe 23, maybe 20 -- who's to say what
>> actually touched their plane? We only know what the gusts were at the
> wind
>> sensoring equipment. Gusts are not consistent across all parts of the
>> airport. I am not saying those are not skilled FLYERS. Skill
>> certainly
> has
>> a lot to do with it, but it does not hurt to be lucky -- that is what
>> I am
>> saying. What if a gust not earlier predicted/seen, say 30kt occurred
>> at
>> just the wrong moment/place when expecting 25kts? -- one day you WILL
>> find
>> your personal limit if you keep looking for it....and then
>> what.........
>> You still will not know for sure what it is. Being a skilled PILOT
>> might
> be
>> something to admire just as well -- respecting when not to fly *or* to
> land
>> some other airport with a runway more agreeable with the winds.
>>
>> Advice from this novice tailwheeler: Keep expanding your maximum
>> crosswind/gust component and one day you WILL find it....and then
>> what......... Higher insurance rates!! My plan: I will seek not to
>> expand/find my limit.
>
>
> After years of reading posts on this subject on this list, and
> extrapolating
> what I felt I could handle in my RV-8 based on successful landings in
> 10-15
> kt crosswinds, I figured my personal limit would be 20 kts also. So
> one day
> with ASOS indicating a 16 kt crosswind at exactly 90 degree to the
> runway I
> landed. Even though the ASOS did not indicate gusts on the broadcast
> just
> prior to landing I could tell from the nearby water that it was
> gusting.
> Made it down nicely using all the standard techniques, but got nailed
> by a
> much stronger gust AFTER most of my forward speed had decayed, was
> moving
> forward at only 25-30 mph. A fair amount of damage resulted, details at
> http://www.rv-8.com/Flying.htm#The%20final%20chapter. Quite a helpless
> feeling... too slow for rudder to be effective, it hit too fast to use
> the
> throttle, and I was probably too slow to deploy differential braking.
> Not
> sure if that would have helped though because the gust skidded my
> still-locked tailwheel across the wet pavement quite rapidly. Yes,
> I've been
> lucky before too, but not that day.
>
> Anyway, my point is that I agree with the above comments, there are
> LOTS of
> variables and we should allow some margin for them. I haven't decided
> what
> my NEW personal xwind limit will be with the RV-3B I'm building, I'll
> need
> to get a feel for it first in some 10-15 kt winds first, but it will
> likely
> be lower than before just because of the "unexpected" factor.
>
> Randy Lervold
>
Every landing is different, and every crosswind is different. The fact
that the runway was wet was quite possibly a big factor too. I don't
have any real RV experience, but I've got lots of crosswinds experience
on other, larger, aircraft. Landing in a big crosswind is a lot
different on a dry runway than it is on a damp or slippery runway. Not
necessarily harder on a slippery runway, but definitely different, as
the aircraft may slide around, so you have a different set of issues to
deal with.
So, if you've expanded the crosswind envelope to XX kt on a dry runway,
then don't just assume that you can handle the same crosswind on a wet
runway. You need to start the envelope expansion all over again on the
slippery runway. Night is harder too, due to the poorer visual cues.
And aft CG is different than forward CG.
Be careful out there,
Kevin Horton
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "R.A.S" <deruiteraircraftservices@btinternet.com>
Hi All,
the hobbsmeter on the Vans website has passed the 4000 mark !!!
Message 34
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| Subject: | RV6A max demonstrated X-wind |
--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV6A max demonstrated X-wind
RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Had a wild ride coming back into LZU this afternoon. Atis report
330-16, G-23, landing 25. very turbulent. Had to touch down long at better
than
90mp indicated with some crab as coulndnt take it all out with ruder and
stay in neighborhood of middle. Had rt wing down as low as i dared. I would
venture that gusts were stronger as at about 100-150' plane whipped from
about
a 40d crab to nearly sideways before I could counter it. I have 22 hrs in
Tweety bird now, glad it didn't happen early on. Since we don't have a max
demonstrated xwind figure as a standard I was wondering what some of
the more experienced 6A drivers had managed or would consider max X-wind
for our planes. Charlie heathco
==============================
Hi Charlie
Congratulations on making it, the max demonstrated crosswind limit in
certified aircraft must be achievable by an average pilot using normal
piloting techniques and not take an exceptionally talented pilot. Therefore
I believe that you have indeed not only reached, but considerably exceeded
what would be considered a normal "max demonstrated crosswind limit".
If I remember correctly all certified aircraft must have the capability of
handling a crosswind up to 20% of their stall speed, about 11 - 12 knots in
the case of my RV-6A and that limit may be increased to a demonstrated
limit.
Two items in your post caught my attention and suggested to me that you were
on very thin ice;
(1) that you had the wing down as far as "you dared". When I instructed many
years ago I taught that when lined up on final if the wingtip seems to be
half way down from level to the ground contact position then the crosswind
is beyond limits, (this may not necessarily be true but is a good indicator
especially if the runway is contaminated).
(2) that you touched down at "better than 90 mph" would have put you in
great danger of a wheelbarrow type loss of control, with all the weight
supported by nose wheel, wings and tail plane leaves very little weight and
traction on the main wheels.
(I have seen a DC-6B supported by the nose wheel wings & tail until the
props went into reverse).
So congratulations again and I suggest you lower your X-wind limits.
George in Langley BC
Message 35
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| Subject: | Radio/Intercom interference with engine issue |
--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Had a somewhat similar problem on the first flight, as the speed and air
noise built up it exceeded the squelch level for the radio/intercom, I was
hearing recycled background noise and could not hear the tower until I
slowed down to about 100 mph.
George in Langley
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I have an interesting issue. I am flying my friends RV-7, this is the
second flight. I had the throttle basically full (breaking in the engine)
and the
radio progressively seemed to get worse (over a 515 minute period) with
static when receiving transmissions from ATC. It got so bad, I could
barely hear
him. He said he had no issues hearing me. I told him I was going to come
in for a full stop, pulled back the throttle, and could hear fine once
again.
So I called the controller and told him I was going to go around again and
once I gave it over about 75% power, the radio once again had a bunch of
static (only when receiving transmissions).
The plane has a PS Engineering PM1000 intercom, Garmin 430 radio, and a
Headsets Inc ANR in a Dave Clark 13.4 headset. It also has a Lightspeed
electronic ignition on the right mag. I did a mag check in the air and it
did not
seem to make a difference.
I pulled and reseated the headset plugs and that did not fix the issue.
Does anyone have any ideas what to check? We had no issues on the first
flight. Thanks in advance!
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Tailcone Complete, working on wings
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Radio/Intercom interference with engine issue |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes" <skytop@megsinet.net>
I noticed the same problem when descending at high speed. I installed a
larger sponge thing over the mic input and that has lessened the problem.
Tom Barnes -6
----- Original Message -----
From: <N223RV@aol.com>
<rv7-list@matronics.com>; <rv-list@matronics.com>;
<aeroelectric-list@matronics.com>
Subject: RV-List: Radio/Intercom interference with engine issue
> --> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
>
> I have an interesting issue. I am flying my friends RV-7, this is the
> second flight. I had the throttle basically full (breaking in the engine)
and the
> radio progressively seemed to get worse (over a 515 minute period) with
> static when receiving transmissions from ATC. It got so bad, I could
barely hear
> him. He said he had no issues hearing me. I told him I was going to
come
> in for a full stop, pulled back the throttle, and could hear fine once
again.
> So I called the controller and told him I was going to go around again
and
> once I gave it over about 75% power, the radio once again had a bunch of
> static (only when receiving transmissions).
>
> The plane has a PS Engineering PM1000 intercom, Garmin 430 radio, and a
> Headsets Inc ANR in a Dave Clark 13.4 headset. It also has a Lightspeed
> electronic ignition on the right mag. I did a mag check in the air and
it did not
> seem to make a difference.
>
> I pulled and reseated the headset plugs and that did not fix the issue.
>
> Does anyone have any ideas what to check? We had no issues on the first
> flight. Thanks in advance!
>
> -Mike Kraus
> N223RV RV-4 Flying
> N213RV RV-10 Tailcone Complete, working on wings
>
>
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