Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:30 AM - Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure (Chris Good)
2. 05:41 AM - Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure (Jerry Calvert)
3. 05:54 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] Oil Cooler Flange Failure (Wayne Sweet)
4. 06:14 AM - Re: Homebuilt Catalog (Dave Durakovich)
5. 08:09 AM - Re: Ice formation (and prevention) in auto fuel in flight (long) (Tim Lewis)
6. 08:55 AM - Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure ()
7. 09:24 AM - Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
8. 10:06 AM - Re: Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure (LARRY ADAMSON)
9. 11:39 AM - Re: Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure (RV6 Flyer)
10. 11:59 AM - Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure (Chuck Weyant)
11. 12:24 PM - [ Kelly Patterson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
12. 01:04 PM - Aluminum Windshield Fairing (Jeff Orear)
13. 01:22 PM - Re: Aluminum Windshield Fairing (sarg314)
14. 01:38 PM - Re: Aluminum Windshield Fairing (Jeff Orear)
15. 03:01 PM - Dynon OAT (Jerry Isler)
16. 03:34 PM - New RV forums (Sean Caranna)
17. 03:47 PM - Mounting electric primer valve (Kelly Patterson)
18. 04:01 PM - Re: Dynon OAT (N223RV@aol.com)
19. 04:02 PM - Re: Mounting electric primer valve (John Ammeter)
20. 04:06 PM - Re: Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure (Terry Watson)
21. 04:28 PM - Re: Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure (H.Ivan Haecker)
22. 04:30 PM - Tomorrow is the day..... (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
23. 04:44 PM - RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures (Scott VanArtsdalen)
24. 04:45 PM - Re: Tomorrow is the day..... (Scott VanArtsdalen)
25. 05:34 PM - Looking for new owner of N16JA in Cottage Grove, OR (John Ammeter)
26. 05:58 PM - Re: Tomorrow is the day..... (Jeff Orear)
27. 06:22 PM - WTB Sensinich Metal prop (Doug Rozendaal)
28. 06:34 PM - > Re: Tomorrow is the day (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
29. 07:14 PM - Re: Aluminum Windshield Fairing (Kosta Lewis)
30. 07:14 PM - Fw: Oil cooler mounting (Eustace Bowhay)
31. 07:51 PM - Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures (Ed Holyoke)
32. 09:33 PM - Re: Tomorrow is the day..... (Dave Bristol)
33. 09:33 PM - Re: Mounting electric primer valve (LarryRobertHelming)
34. 09:56 PM - Re: Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure (RV6 Flyer)
35. 11:45 PM - alternator (Wheeler North)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Dan,
Thanks for all the great photos of this problem!
Did you use steel tubing for the spacers? I've heard that aluminum tubing, in
this application, will compress over time, leading to looseness in the assembly
& premature failure.
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A 830 hrs flying.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Flange Failure
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> As you may recall, I had a few bad baffle cracks early on. I'm happy to
> report that my latest baffle/brace design seems to be rock solid.
> However...last night, when doing an oil change, I noticed that my oil cooler
> flanges all but self-destructed. The oil cooler flanges have become the
> weak link in the chain. Photos here:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20041229.html (bottom of page)
>
> I blindly followed "the plans" (FWF DWG OP-27) when installing my oil
> cooler, and while I don't normally criticize the amazing job Van's has done,
> this is one area where the plans are definitely leading "newbies" like me
> astray. I take full responsibility for what happened, but you might want to
> check your installation if you followed the drawing blindly like I did.
>
> Here's the end result, including the modifications I made (that probably
> MANY less ignorant people have already made) in order to make the
> installation robust.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20041230.html
>
> Hope this helps!
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
--
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
Flange destruction of this nature seems to point to movement in the oil
cooler.. I use 4 bolts on my -6 and don't have any problems. I do use steel
tubing spacers instead of aluminum though. The tubes keep the bolts from
pulling the cooler flanges inwards. If the aluminum wears on the ends, it
will allow the flanges to move inwards slightly and cause a loose condition.
Another issue could be the cooler contacting the engine mount, but you would
see a chaf if this was true. Your repair looks great, but I personally
would go with steel tubing spacers.
Jerry Calvert
N296JC RV6
Edmond Ok
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Flange Failure
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> As you may recall, I had a few bad baffle cracks early on. I'm happy to
> report that my latest baffle/brace design seems to be rock solid.
> However...last night, when doing an oil change, I noticed that my oil
cooler
> flanges all but self-destructed. The oil cooler flanges have become the
> weak link in the chain. Photos here:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20041229.html (bottom of page)
>
> I blindly followed "the plans" (FWF DWG OP-27) when installing my oil
> cooler, and while I don't normally criticize the amazing job Van's has
done,
> this is one area where the plans are definitely leading "newbies" like me
> astray. I take full responsibility for what happened, but you might want
to
> check your installation if you followed the drawing blindly like I did.
>
> Here's the end result, including the modifications I made (that probably
> MANY less ignorant people have already made) in order to make the
> installation robust.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20041230.html
>
> Hope this helps!
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
<rv-list@matronics.com>, <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Sweet" <w_sweet@comcast.net>
Dan,
Looks like you may have vibration problems. Have you had the prop/engine dynamically
balance? If not that would be a good thing to do. Can't believe normal stress
(unless the mounting is out of alignment somehow) did that.
Don't blame it on Van's design. Four bolts should be enough, UNLESS it is under
high vibration or mis-alignment stress.
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: Dan Checkoway
To: SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com ; vansairforce@yahoogroups.com ; rv-list@matronics.com
; RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Thursday, December 30, 2004 9:17 PM
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Oil Cooler Flange Failure
As you may recall, I had a few bad baffle cracks early on. I'm happy to
report that my latest baffle/brace design seems to be rock solid.
However...last night, when doing an oil change, I noticed that my oil cooler
flanges all but self-destructed. The oil cooler flanges have become the
weak link in the chain. Photos here:
http://www.rvproject.com/20041229.html (bottom of page)
I blindly followed "the plans" (FWF DWG OP-27) when installing my oil
cooler, and while I don't normally criticize the amazing job Van's has done,
this is one area where the plans are definitely leading "newbies" like me
astray. I take full responsibility for what happened, but you might want to
check your installation if you followed the drawing blindly like I did.
Here's the end result, including the modifications I made (that probably
MANY less ignorant people have already made) in order to make the
installation robust.
http://www.rvproject.com/20041230.html
Hope this helps!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Online help on this group at:
http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
ADVERTISEMENT
a.. To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
b.. To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
I am using the free version of SPAMfighter for private users.
It has removed 658 spam emails to date.
Paying users do not have this message in their emails.
Try www.SPAMfighter.com for free now!
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Homebuilt Catalog |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Durakovich <ddurakovich@yahoo.com>
I suspect what you're looking for might be the Aerocrafters handbook from EAA.
http://shop.eaa.org/Html/2books_aerocrafter.html?cart_id
Great book, lot's of references, includes a CD with filterable search capabilities.
Dave Durakovich
RV-4 - N666PR
Detroit, MI
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Ice formation (and prevention) in auto fuel in flight (long) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Lewis" <Tim_Lewis@msm.umr.edu>
> You might have a good understanding of how the solubility of water in
> gasoline changes with temperature but this link explains it better
> than I can.
>
> http://www.epa.gov/otaq/regs/fuels/rfg/waterphs.pdf
>
> Some years ago when there was a discussion on the use of fuel filters
> rather than gascolators I expressed concern after finding ice crystals
> when draining the sumps. (snip) I feel that this could be enough to plug a
> filter under the right conditions. I'm not sure what you have in your
> fuel system, however, looking at the physics a little closer might
> explain it. (snip)
>
> Roger Embree
> C-GIRH
Roger,
That was a great reference. I appreciate it.
In my case, I test every purchase of mogas using EAA's "water test" to ensure
there's no ethanol in the fuel, and I filter it using a fine mesh funnel from AC$.
My plane is hangared.
Some interesting/relevant info I've found while researching this topic:
FAA Advisory Circular AC43-16 also addresses the subject.
"WINTER OPERATIONS
This article was excerpted from a Special Issue General Aviation Airworthiness
Alert issued in Dec. 1985.
ANTI-ICING ADDITIVES
While proper fuel sampling and sumping is essential in preventing the formation
of ice due to free water in the fuel, it will not eliminate the hazard of ice
blockage of fuel flow. Under certain conditions, water in suspension or solution
may form ice crystals. Since water in suspension or solution is not removed by
sumping, the formation of ice crystals must be prevented by adding anti-icing
additives, such as isopropyl alcohol or ethylene glycol monomethyl ether
(EGME), to the fuel. Both additives absorb water and reduce the freezing point
of the mixture. Teledyne Continental and Avco Lycoming approve the use of
both additives in their engines, subject to approval by the respective airframe
manufacturers. When alcohol or EGME are used, instruction for their proper use
must be carefully followed. Obtain and follow the aircraft and engine
manufacturers recommendations regarding the use of anti-icing additives in the
fuel for your aircraft.
DRAINING SUMPS
Proper sumping is very important during the preflight check. Sufficient fuel
should be drawn off into a transparent container to see if the fuel is free from
contaminants. Extra care should be taken during changes in temerature,
particularly when it nears the freezing level. Ice may be in the tanks, which may
turn to water when the temperature rises, and may filter down into the carburetor
or fuel controller causing engine failure. Water can freeze in lines and filters
causing stoppage. A small amount of water, when frozen, can prevent proper
operation of fuel pumps, selector valves, and carburetors." (from
http://www.cessnaowner.org/cgi-bin/phorum-
3.4.1/read.php?f=1&i=8132&t=8132)
From AC23.1521-1B
"g. ASTM D 910, Standard Specification for Aviation Gasolines,
allows the use of isopropyl alcohol conforming to the requirements
of ASTM D 4171, Specifications for Fuel System Icing Inhibitor, as
a fuel system icing inhibitor. Accordingly, isopropyl alcohol
conforming to ASTM D 4171 may be used in concentrations up to 1
percent by volume, to benefit safety, as an icing inhibitor in
automobile gasoline."
-Lycoming Service Letter L172B dated January 25, 1980 says in part "...tests
conducted with EGME used as an ice inhibiting fuel additive have shown to be
satisfactory for use in all Avco Lycoming engines with no adverse affects on
engine operations when used in concentrations up to 0.15% by volume in
Aviation Gasoline. The use of EGME as a fuel additive in Avco Lycoming
engines is approved by Avco Lycoming and the FAA."
- Continental Service Bulletin M81-11 Rev. 1 states in part "...Under certain
ambient conditions of temperature/humidity, water can be supported in the fuel
in sufficient quantities to create restrictive ice formation along various segments
of fuel system." "... ethylene glycol monomethyl ether compounds conforming to
military specification MIL-L-27686E, if approved for use in the aircraft fuel
system by the aircraft manufacturer, can be added for this purpose. The ethylene
glycol monomethyl ether compound must be carefully mixed with the fuel in
concentrations not to exceed 0.15 percent by volume."
- Continental issues the following warning that is important to understand:
- "Mixing of the EGME compound with the fuel is extremely important because
concentration in excess of that recommended (0.15 percent volume maximum)
can have a harmful effect on engine components. Use only blending equipment
that is recommended by the manufacturer to obtain proper proportioning." (from
http://www.sacskyranch.com/crbice.htm)
The Prist (EGME)usage recommendations at PPG's Prist FAQ
(http://www.csdinc.org/prist/faq2.html) convinced me that this product isn't for
me -- PPG recommends against using it in fuel that will be stored in the aircraft
because Prist can settle out of the fuel and cause excessively high concentrations
with potential for damaging the fuel tank and/or filters.
AC 20-113 (at http://www.airweb.faa.gov) has a good discussion of fuel system
icing, including suspension of water and ice in av gas.
Your mention of fuel filters vs ice crystals was though provoking. When I
refueled before the flight where I saw the problem, I think Irecall seeing tiny
white dots that I presume where ice crystals in the sumped fuel, and seeing them
(I think) only in the auto gas tank.
In my plane I have fuel filters (Fram G-3, which is transparent) inside the cockpit
between each fuel tank and the fuel selector valve, and another G-3 filter after
the fuel flow transducer, but before the boost pump (also inside the cockpit).
This final filter serves primarily as a "capacitor" to absorb pulses in the fuel
line
pressure generated by the boost pump and engine driven pump before the pulses
reach the fuel flow transducer.
I suppose it is possible that ice crystals could clog the filter medium even in
the
presence of liquid gasoline. I would think the ice would melt after being in
the
warm cockpit for some time, but perhaps not. I tried the problem tank several
times in flight, and it never fed fuel after the first blockage occurred. This
led
me to believe that the blockage occurred prior to the filter (outside the cockpit,
where it wouldn't melt), either at the finger strainer or in the tubing somewhere
prior to the fuel line's entrance to the cockpit.
I briefly considered installing a valve to allow circumventing the Fram G-3
associated with the auto gas tank as a way to test the "iced filter" theory. That,
however, is a terrible idea in my installation because the "capacitor" filter down
stream could then be clogged by ice. Then switching to the "avgas only" tank
wouldn't solve the problem. Bad!
I can't be sure exactly where the blockage occurred, but I'm confident it was ice,
and was in the fairly short section of fuel line beginning at the finger screen
and
ending at the fuel selector valve. My goal at this point is to reduce the
probability of recurrence.
Given a choice between Prist (EGME) and Isopropyl Alcohol, I think alcohol is
better for my situation. Lycoming SI 1070L permits 1% alcohol in the fuel.
Precision Airmotive answered my email inquiry about carb compatibility this
way "There will be no (carb) problem with the use of 1% Isopropyl alcohol in
your fuel. Please let me know if you have any other questions." I'm waiting on
a
response from Aeroquip to be sure the 701 hose is compatible with isopropyl
alcohol.
So... I'm going to get some anhydrous isopropyl alcohol (Home Depot?) and test
my remaining fuel system components (pro seal, fuel filters and associated
rubber hose, gascolator seals).
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 700 hrs
RV-10 #40059 under construction
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sgesele@yahoo.com>
Dan,
When you reinstall the oil cooler, you may want to use
a stainless steel sleeve on the bolt instead of the
aluminum. The aluminum is relatively soft and will
compress over time. This will result in little, or no
clamping pressure from the bolt and a possible failure
of the mounting flange. The stainless should solve
this problem.
I have well over 700 hrs with this setup and have not
had any problems.
Scott Gesele
N506RV
> Time: 09:19:31 PM PST US
> From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> <rv-list@matronics.com>,
> <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Flange Failure
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway"
> <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> As you may recall, I had a few bad baffle cracks
> early on. I'm happy to
> report that my latest baffle/brace design seems to
> be rock solid.
> However...last night, when doing an oil change, I
> noticed that my oil cooler
> flanges all but self-destructed. The oil cooler
> flanges have become the
> weak link in the chain. Photos here:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20041229.html (bottom of
> page)
>
> I blindly followed "the plans" (FWF DWG OP-27) when
> installing my oil
> cooler, and while I don't normally criticize the
> amazing job Van's has done,
> this is one area where the plans are definitely
> leading "newbies" like me
> astray. I take full responsibility for what
> happened, but you might want to
> check your installation if you followed the drawing
> blindly like I did.
>
> Here's the end result, including the modifications I
> made (that probably
> MANY less ignorant people have already made) in
> order to make the
> installation robust.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20041230.html
>
> Hope this helps!
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Dan,
Just excellent info & pix as usual. I'm attaching my oil cooler to the
engine mounts to isolate from the engine. I will use a 3" duct from the baffle
downwards with plenums on both ends. I know many have installed the cooler on
the firewall, including our flying -6a, and am wondering why Van's insists on
staying with the baffle mount. He must think it is more efficient. Your story
is just one of many over the years about cracking in this area. BTW, Pacific
Oil Cooler did a beautiful job for sure.
Jerry Cochran
Wilsonville, OR
In a message dated 12/31/2004 12:03:25 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Flange Failure
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
As you may recall, I had a few bad baffle cracks early on. I'm happy to
report that my latest baffle/brace design seems to be rock solid.
However...last night, when doing an oil change, I noticed that my oil cooler
flanges all but self-destructed. The oil cooler flanges have become the
weak link in the chain. Photos here:
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Dan,
Just excellent info & pix as usual. I'm attaching my oil cooler to the
engine mounts to isolate from the engine. I will use a 3" duct from the baffle
downwards with plenums on both ends. I know many have installed the cooler on
the firewall, including our flying -6a, and am wondering why Van's insists on
staying with the baffle mount. He must think it is more efficient. Your story
is just one of many over the years about cracking in this area. BTW, Pacific
Oil Cooler did a beautiful job for sure.
The way I look at it, is......
My baffle mounted cooler & oil hoses, all vibrate together as one unit. If I mount
the cooler to a fixed surface such as the firewall or engine mount, then
the hoses will constantly be in movement as the engine vibrates on the mount,
even though the "back end" at the mounts would have the least movement. So what's
worse?
I haven't yet flown, but will check into stainless steel spacers ( IF I didn't
use stainless already --- been too long) & washers. My oil filter is also directly
mounted to the engine. 0360A1A
Larry Adamson RV6A --- installing polished aluminum spinner today. Looks better!
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Larry:
I had my oil cooler on the firewall with 3" scat when I did my test flying
back in 1997. The oil ran near redline all the time. Had 3 cases of vapor
lock then moved the oil cooler to the engine mount behind the # 4 cylinder.
Looks just like all the other baffle mount cooler but it is a solid mount on
the engine mount. The hose flex have been no problem yet after over 1,550
hours.
If you check the archives, you may find some info on others that have had
high oil temps with the firewall mount oil cooler. With the cooler mounted
to the engine mount, I have a small duct / plenum (3" X 4") extending to
behind # 4 cylinder. I have the same size opening in the baffle. I
typically run 10 - 15 degrees F cooler than the other RVs I fly with that
have the cooler mounted to the baffle. May have something to do with
getting minimal heat transfer from the cylinder head to the cooler.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,617 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure
--> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Dan,
Just excellent info & pix as usual. I'm attaching my oil cooler to the
engine mounts to isolate from the engine. I will use a 3" duct from the
baffle
downwards with plenums on both ends. I know many have installed the cooler
on
the firewall, including our flying -6a, and am wondering why Van's insists
on
staying with the baffle mount. He must think it is more efficient. Your
story
is just one of many over the years about cracking in this area. BTW,
Pacific
Oil Cooler did a beautiful job for sure.
The way I look at it, is......
My baffle mounted cooler & oil hoses, all vibrate together as one unit. If
I mount the cooler to a fixed surface such as the firewall or engine mount,
then the hoses will constantly be in movement as the engine vibrates on the
mount, even though the "back end" at the mounts would have the least
movement. So what's worse?
I haven't yet flown, but will check into stainless steel spacers ( IF I
didn't use stainless already --- been too long) & washers. My oil filter is
also directly mounted to the engine. 0360A1A
Larry Adamson RV6A --- installing polished aluminum spinner today. Looks
better!
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Thanks for the heads-up Dan. (You da man!) I going to have a look at mine
over the weekend.
Chuck Weyant RV9A
Santa Maria, CA
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
Subject: RV-List: Oil Cooler Flange Failure
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> As you may recall, I had a few bad baffle cracks early on. I'm happy to
> report that my latest baffle/brace design seems to be rock solid.
> However...last night, when doing an oil change, I noticed that my oil
cooler
> flanges all but self-destructed. The oil cooler flanges have become the
> weak link in the chain. Photos here:
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20041229.html (bottom of page)
>
> I blindly followed "the plans" (FWF DWG OP-27) when installing my oil
> cooler, and while I don't normally criticize the amazing job Van's has
done,
> this is one area where the plans are definitely leading "newbies" like me
> astray. I take full responsibility for what happened, but you might want
to
> check your installation if you followed the drawing blindly like I did.
>
> Here's the end result, including the modifications I made (that probably
> MANY less ignorant people have already made) in order to make the
> installation robust.
>
> http://www.rvproject.com/20041230.html
>
> Hope this helps!
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | [ Kelly Patterson ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: Kelly Patterson <kbob@cox.net>
Subject: Tailcone baggage compartment
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/kbob@cox.net.12.31.2004/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Aluminum Windshield Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
List:
I am attempting to make my windshield fairing out of aluminum and am trying to
follow the instructions that were written in an RV-ator article I found in 19
years of the RV-ator.
I am puzzled with the part where a jig is made to aid in bending the flange for
the fairing. It says to make this jig so that it will set on the face of the
windshield. Making a cardboard template at the base of the windshield as described
in the instructions results in a template that will not sit on the face
of the windshield.
Am I missing something here? Any suggestions from anyone who made a metal fairing?
Thanks in advance
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Windshield fairing
Peshtigo, WI
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Windshield Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Jeff:
I did this (took 3 tries, but I got a pretty good result finally).
The way I interpretted the instructions was that the cardboard template
should be, ideally, everywhere perpendicular to the canopy along the
base of the canopy. That means make it fit with the cardboard sticking
out into space, normal to the plexiglass. The shapes are such that a
plane cannot infact do that, but just try to split the difference. It
is not critical. The wood clamp you make from the template only holds
the aluminum in roughly the right shape while you bend the flange. Try
making one and see how it goes.
I initially thought I should use some soft, pure aluminum sheet, but in
the end I was able to get a good result with 2024-T3 sheet. I then
sealed the aluminum to the plexi with a small bead of Lexel sealer. I
really didn't like the idea of epoxying a fiberglass fairing to the
canopy forward skin. If I ever have to replace the canopy, getting the
fiberglass unglued would be a terrible job.
Jeff Orear wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
>List:
>
>
>I am puzzled with the part where a jig is made to aid in bending the flange for
the fairing. It says to make this jig so that it will set on the face of the
windshield. Making a cardboard template at the base of the windshield as described
in the instructions results in a template that will not sit on the face
of the windshield.
>
>
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Aluminum Windshield Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Thanks for the reply. That is how I figured I would go about it.
I agree with you about making a fiberglass fairing that is permanently stuck
onto the windshield. My concern was also that the windshield is going to
expand and contract with temperature extremes and I wanted it to be able to
do that under a metal fairing.
Again, thanks for the reply.
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
windshield fairing
Peshtigo, WI
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Aluminum Windshield Fairing
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> Jeff:
> I did this (took 3 tries, but I got a pretty good result finally).
> The way I interpretted the instructions was that the cardboard template
> should be, ideally, everywhere perpendicular to the canopy along the
> base of the canopy. That means make it fit with the cardboard sticking
> out into space, normal to the plexiglass. The shapes are such that a
> plane cannot infact do that, but just try to split the difference. It
> is not critical. The wood clamp you make from the template only holds
> the aluminum in roughly the right shape while you bend the flange. Try
> making one and see how it goes.
>
> I initially thought I should use some soft, pure aluminum sheet, but in
> the end I was able to get a good result with 2024-T3 sheet. I then
> sealed the aluminum to the plexi with a small bead of Lexel sealer. I
> really didn't like the idea of epoxying a fiberglass fairing to the
> canopy forward skin. If I ever have to replace the canopy, getting the
> fiberglass unglued would be a terrible job.
>
> Jeff Orear wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>>
>>List:
>>
>>
>>I am puzzled with the part where a jig is made to aid in bending the
>>flange for the fairing. It says to make this jig so that it will set on
>>the face of the windshield. Making a cardboard template at the base of the
>>windshield as described in the instructions results in a template that
>>will not sit on the face of the windshield.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
After Fed Ex-ing a Dynon OAT probe from ACS on the west coast, to Georgia, I
cannot get the system to recognize that it is installed. I have the external
compass connected and working properly and I have checked, re-checked, and
checked again the wiring for the probe. Its only three wires into a 9 pin
connector so it's not that hard. Has anyone had trouble getting a Dynon D10A
to recognize the OAT probe? What are the values of the probe in ohms? Should
I see the values change if I heat up the probe? The three wires from the
probe are as follows. Blue (ground), red, and yellow. I do not know what
the red and yellow wires actually are because they connect to the compass
module with not explanation.
Jerry Isler
RV4 N455J
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sean Caranna" <VP2Flyer@cfl.rr.com>
I've started a new aircraft homebuilding forum at http://www.WingsForum.com
"They" say that a picture is worth a thousand words. The ability to attach
spreadsheets, documents, and CAD files can speak volumes.
I am not asking anyone to leave this list. I'm just offering an additional
resource that will offer easily accessible photo and data file content
intergraded with the message threads. http://www.wingsforum.com also has
form based email and private messaging that will nonpublic communications
while protecting your email address from SPAM email harvesters.
http://www.WingsForum.com was created because the email based groups just
can't compete with the forum format for organization of topics, searching
information already covered by a group, and relevancy of information
presented. I can't tell you how many HOURS of my life have been wasted
scrolling through off topic threads and information irrelevant to my search
on Yahoo and MSN groups. Lets face it, if you are looking for info on your
spar why should you need to scroll through 30 email post on firewalls 5
about rudders and 2 about nothing at all?
At http://www.WingsForum.com you will find topics well organized, pictures
and relevant files directly attached to their post, private messaging, and
more all on one site. Forum membership is, and will always be, FREE. Try
in out, it cost nothing, and you just might like it. If you don't like it
just let me know how I can improve the site.
Email Digest are available for those who prefer them. You can customize
them for what forums you want to watch, if you want a short excerpt or full
messages of up to 36,000 characters, and what time of day they will be
delivered to you. Users just click the Digest link at the top of the page
once logged in to enable them.
Thanks for your consideration,
Sean C. Caranna
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Mounting electric primer valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
Hey great wise builders.... I'm stumped.
How do you mount the electric fuel primer valve that Van's sells?
I've searched the usual places for ideas with no luck.
FWIW - there are 2 threaded holes in one end, and a big nut on the other
(no, not me).
I can always use an Adel clamp on the valve body, but that is no good in my
book - too wobbly for a fuel line.
Let me know what has worked for you.
Thanks & Happy New Year!
Kelly Patterson
PHX, AZ
RV6A Finish
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: N223RV@aol.com
I heard a rumor you have to have the OAT probe installed when you upload the
software into the Dynon as it is supposed to send some info to the
magnetometer and that only occurs when the probe is hooked up.... So you could
try
reloading the software (and use the latest version) and see if that helps.
Also, be sure the keep alive power wire is not connected when you hook up
the probe and the magnetometer. I guess there is a (high) potential that if
the power pin connects before the ground pin when installing the connector it
will cause problems with the probe (permanent problems to my understanding).
I have a buddy in the hanger behind me trying to get his to work for 6
months. I just gave up after 3 and have been flying with it inop. Other than
the
stupid probe, the unit is nice..... Good Luck
-Mike Kraus
N223RV RV-4 Flying
N213RV RV-10 Empennage/Tailcone complete, working on wings
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mounting electric primer valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
On Fri, 31 Dec 2004 16:46:55 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
>
>
>Hey great wise builders.... I'm stumped.
>How do you mount the electric fuel primer valve that Van's sells?
>I've searched the usual places for ideas with no luck.
>
>FWIW - there are 2 threaded holes in one end, and a big nut on the other
>(no, not me).
>I can always use an Adel clamp on the valve body, but that is no good in my
>book - too wobbly for a fuel line.
>
>Let me know what has worked for you.
>
>Thanks & Happy New Year!
>
>Kelly Patterson
>PHX, AZ
>RV6A Finish
>
I think what I did on my RV-6 was to clamp the two aluminum
fuel lines close to the solenoid. Sold N16JA about 5 or 6
years ago...
John
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Gary,
Is your "small duct / plenum (3" x 4") " made of flexible material? If so,
what did you use. If not, what absorbs the movement between the oil cooler
and the rear baffle? I think I want to mount my oil cooler that way since
the carbon fiber plenum from Jon Johanson I am using makes it a little
harder to brace the rear baffle behind #4.
Terry
RV-8A
Seattle
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Larry:
I had my oil cooler on the firewall with 3" scat when I did my test flying
back in 1997. The oil ran near redline all the time. Had 3 cases of vapor
lock then moved the oil cooler to the engine mount behind the # 4 cylinder.
Looks just like all the other baffle mount cooler but it is a solid mount on
the engine mount. The hose flex have been no problem yet after over 1,550
hours.
If you check the archives, you may find some info on others that have had
high oil temps with the firewall mount oil cooler. With the cooler mounted
to the engine mount, I have a small duct / plenum (3" X 4") extending to
behind # 4 cylinder. I have the same size opening in the baffle. I
typically run 10 - 15 degrees F cooler than the other RVs I fly with that
have the cooler mounted to the baffle. May have something to do with
getting minimal heat transfer from the cylinder head to the cooler.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,617 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
All this talk about oil coolers has me wondering if there is anyone besides
myself (and one other that I know of ) who have their oil cooler mounted on
top of the engine crankcase in an aluminum box with the exhaust air vented
out the rear baffle? That was the way Van's recomended mounting it at one
time (back in the 80's). They even sold some kind of cooler that looked like
it was designed to cool the fluid of an automatic transmission. It had #6 AN
fittings welded on it and was nothing more than a U-shaped tube with cooling
fins. I've since replaced mine but kept the same location. If my oil temp
indicator is to be believed, I have had no problems in 1100 hrs. And summers
do get a little warm here in Texas! This is on a -4 with an 0-320 and wood
prop.
Ivan Haecker -4 1123hrs. S. Cen. TX
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tomorrow is the day..... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Do not archive
I missed being number 4000 like so many first flyers did, But I am going
to be the first New RV6 to fly in 2005 if all goes well.
I have about an hour of work to do on the right seat screws and put some
gas in it and fly it..
Weather in the midwest for tomorrow is possible T-Storms....... WX today
was upper 60's and sunny..
Tonight I am going to sing Karaoke.......... Toimorrow, I
fly............ Tomorrow night, I give a report..Maybe some pictures..
Happy New Year...
Phil in Illinois Sure wish I had an RV-6 to fly...........
do not archive.
>
>
>
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
All this oil cooler talk has got me wanting to move my oil cooler off
the firewall to a spot where it will get better cooling. I've seen
several installations over the years that I've liked but I've forgotten
where all these pictures were. If anyone has an pictures of their RV-4
oil cooler installations I'd sure like to take a look. Especially if
you've mounted it on the baffle or engine mount behind good ol' #4.
Maybe even in the cheek cowling.
Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tomorrow is the day..... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Eat, drink, and sing Karaoke for tomorrow we fly!
Best of luck and enjoy! We all know you will.
Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
>
>Do not archive
>
>I missed being number 4000 like so many first flyers did, But I am going
>to be the first New RV6 to fly in 2005 if all goes well.
>I have about an hour of work to do on the right seat screws and put some
>gas in it and fly it..
>Weather in the midwest for tomorrow is possible T-Storms....... WX today
>was upper 60's and sunny..
>Tonight I am going to sing Karaoke.......... Toimorrow, I
>fly............ Tomorrow night, I give a report..Maybe some pictures..
>Happy New Year...
>
>Phil in Illinois Sure wish I had an RV-6 to fly...........
>
>do not archive.
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Looking for new owner of N16JA in Cottage Grove, OR |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
I looked up the RV-6 I built and have found a "registration
pending" on it. The address for the new owner is:
520 Palmer Ave #52
Cottage Grove, OR
I'd like to talk to the new owner and see how "my" baby is
doing now. It last flew on a flight to a small town just
north of Boise. The landing left a lot to be desired, I'm
told, with damage to the left wingtip, vert stab, prop,
canopy, etc.
If anyone could contact me with the new owners name/phone
number I'll give him a call. Or, alternately, he could call
me. I'm "in the book" in Seattle. In fact, only two
Ammeters are listed, my listing is the first one, second is
my wifes phone...
jammeter@comcast.net
John Ammeter
do not archive
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tomorrow is the day..... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
Go for it Phil!!
Regards,
Jeff Orear
RV6A N782P (reserved)
Windshield fairing
Peshtigo, WI
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tomorrow is the day.....
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> <sisson@consolidated.net>
>
> Do not archive
>
> I missed being number 4000 like so many first flyers did, But I am going
> to be the first New RV6 to fly in 2005 if all goes well.
> I have about an hour of work to do on the right seat screws and put some
> gas in it and fly it..
> Weather in the midwest for tomorrow is possible T-Storms....... WX today
> was upper 60's and sunny..
> Tonight I am going to sing Karaoke.......... Toimorrow, I
> fly............ Tomorrow night, I give a report..Maybe some pictures..
> Happy New Year...
>
> Phil in Illinois Sure wish I had an RV-6 to fly...........
>
> do not archive.
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | WTB Sensinich Metal prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
The guy who runs the local FBO bought a RV-6 that has a cut down metal prop
on it, ( ~70.5") and he would like to buy a Sensinich Metal prop. This
airplane has a 150 hp but he might buy something that needed repitched if it
was wrong.
Call 641-430-9898 and tell him I told you to call.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
MCW
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: > Re: Tomorrow is the day |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Best wishes Phil;
I have told people," I'm not built to know the thrill of motherhood, but
that first flight has to be a close second ! ".
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Aluminum Windshield Fairing |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>I really didn't like the idea of epoxying a fiberglass fairing to the
>canopy forward skin. If I ever have to replace the canopy, getting the
>fiberglass unglued would be a terrible job.
Unless you don't glue it in place. I molded my fiberglass fairing up
against the canopy "glass" and forward skin, making it a removable unit,
nonstickum underneath. After it cured and was finished, it was then
riveted to the forward skin with AN rivets and to the canopy frame with
pull rivets, RTV in between for sealing. Looks good (IMHO), air and
water tight and is a perfect fit. I can't remember how many layers of
glass; enough to look sturdy and look good. Fiberglass is so much easier
to work with than metal. This is on a -4 but would work on a -6.
Michael
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Fw: Oil cooler mounting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Eustace Bowhay" <ebowhay@jetstream.net>
I am posting this again for anyone that might be interested. I believe there are
others that have done this, if so maybe they might want to comment.
Eustace Bowhay
----- Original Message -----
From: Eustace Bowhay
Subject: Oil cooler mounting
Finished mounting my cooler today and will pass on the why's and werefor's.
On my RV6 I chose to mount a nine row Stewart Warner on and under the left hand
forward baffle which is more or less flush with the air inlet of the cowling.
This has worked well for ten years with only one minor crack repair in one corner
of the cut out. This installation has been able to keep the oil temps at
the vernatherm setting under the most severe conditions including all the testing
that was done on the amphib float installation.
When it came time to install the cooler on the 6A I decided to go the same route.
Having read
a lot of hot oil discussions on this list and knowing that the installation on
the 6 had no problems it didn't make any sense to do something different. I wanted
to get the same cooler for the 6A but found that it was not available from
Vans or ACS so gave Pacific Oil Cooler Services a call and they shipped the
cooler the same day. However when it arrived it was the right size cooler but
had both fittings on one end which wouldn't work for my installation, was my
fault for not giving them enough detail. Included with the cooler was some advertising
material and a brochure on the 7 & 9 row Aero Classic which is the same
as the Stewart Warner but sold to the home builders. I talked to Pacific and
they had no problem with a swap. I received the 9 row Aero classic a couple
of days ago, the same as the Stewart Warner and carries a 2 year 2000 hour warranty
and the price was 205.00 and got a 150.00 credit to my Visa. The folks
at Pacific get top marks from me.
I had finished the baffles (Van's kit) so removed the left front baffle and installed
the cooler, installation time was six hours. Would be happy to supply more
detail and pictures if it is of any interest.
Eustace Bowhay Blind Bay, B.C.
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Has anybody tried a firewall mount oil cooler with a naca inlet and duct
off the side of the cowling? I'm wondering if that might be a way to not
steal cooling air from the cylinders. Does anybody make a naca inlet
that's big enough for a 3" scat?
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
VanArtsdalen
Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
All this oil cooler talk has got me wanting to move my oil cooler off
the firewall to a spot where it will get better cooling. I've seen
several installations over the years that I've liked but I've forgotten
where all these pictures were. If anyone has an pictures of their RV-4
oil cooler installations I'd sure like to take a look. Especially if
you've mounted it on the baffle or engine mount behind good ol' #4.
Maybe even in the cheek cowling.
Thanks!
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tomorrow is the day..... |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
You know of course, that you are not supposed to fly within 24 hours of
karaoke?
Be careful and have fun!
Dave, -6 So Cal
do not archive
Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club wrote:
>Tonight I am going to sing Karaoke.......... Toimorrow, I
>fly............ Tomorrow night, I give a report..Maybe some pictures..
>Happy New Year...
>
>Phil in Illinois Sure wish I had an RV-6 to fly...........
>
>
>
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 33
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mounting electric primer valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I mounted mine on the battery box. Take a 1x1.25 piece of angle and set the
primer on top and attach it with screws and rivet the other side of the
angle to the battery box with flush rivets on inside. Nice and sturdy and
not much change in elevation from the gascolator to the first primer line T.
I scratched my head on this for a few days too. Best wishes.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
Subject: RV-List: Mounting electric primer valve
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
>
>
> Hey great wise builders.... I'm stumped.
> How do you mount the electric fuel primer valve that Van's sells?
> I've searched the usual places for ideas with no luck.
>
> FWIW - there are 2 threaded holes in one end, and a big nut on the other
> (no, not me).
> I can always use an Adel clamp on the valve body, but that is no good in
my
> book - too wobbly for a fuel line.
>
> Let me know what has worked for you.
>
> Thanks & Happy New Year!
>
> Kelly Patterson
> PHX, AZ
> RV6A Finish
>
>
Message 34
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
I used a combination of metal and garlock material. The installation that I
copied used all garlock material. I thought I could save a few oz of weight
using the metal. It was more work and I am not sure it was worth it.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,617 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Gary,
Is your "small duct / plenum (3" x 4") " made of flexible material? If so,
what did you use. If not, what absorbs the movement between the oil cooler
and the rear baffle? I think I want to mount my oil cooler that way since
the carbon fiber plenum from Jon Johanson I am using makes it a little
harder to brace the rear baffle behind #4.
Terry
RV-8A
Seattle
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Larry:
I had my oil cooler on the firewall with 3" scat when I did my test flying
back in 1997. The oil ran near redline all the time. Had 3 cases of vapor
lock then moved the oil cooler to the engine mount behind the # 4 cylinder.
Looks just like all the other baffle mount cooler but it is a solid mount on
the engine mount. The hose flex have been no problem yet after over 1,550
hours.
If you check the archives, you may find some info on others that have had
high oil temps with the firewall mount oil cooler. With the cooler mounted
to the engine mount, I have a small duct / plenum (3" X 4") extending to
behind # 4 cylinder. I have the same size opening in the baffle. I
typically run 10 - 15 degrees F cooler than the other RVs I fly with that
have the cooler mounted to the baffle. May have something to do with
getting minimal heat transfer from the cylinder head to the cooler.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,617 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
Message 35
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
D, and others,
I would add one more comment to Dan's comment about recharging a battery
with an alternator. It isn't that great for the battery either. Lead acid's
prefer slow charging, and alternator's don't really know how to do this if
the battery has been fully discharged.
So, if you leave the master on over night then stay on the ground and
recharge the battery with a charger, unless of course you absolutely must go
flying... even then it is good to slow charge (ie 5 amps max) the battery
for half an hour rather then nail it with max alternator output from the get
go.
W
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|