Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:22 AM - 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
2. 05:37 AM - Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II (Mickey Coggins)
3. 06:35 AM - Re: New RV forums (Kevin Williams)
4. 06:36 AM - Re: Tomorrow is the day..... (Kevin Williams)
5. 06:39 AM - Re: Looking for new owner of N16JA in Cottage Grove, OR (Kevin Williams)
6. 06:46 AM - Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II (Charlie England)
7. 07:17 AM - Re: Instrument Panel Etching (Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers)
8. 07:29 AM - Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures (LarryRobertHelming)
9. 08:15 AM - Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
10. 08:25 AM - Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures (James Freeman)
11. 11:41 AM - mounting vertical card compass (Wayne Pedersen)
12. 12:19 PM - Re: Mounting electric primer valve (HCRV6@aol.com)
13. 12:55 PM - Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures (gert)
14. 01:09 PM - Happy new year! (Evan and Megan Johnson)
15. 01:10 PM - New RV website, plenum pics moved (Jeff Point)
16. 01:14 PM - Re: mounting vertical card compass (N67BT@aol.com)
17. 01:46 PM - Re: Something else Was: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures (Scott VanArtsdalen)
18. 02:11 PM - Re: Dynon OAT (Jerry Isler)
19. 03:04 PM - FAB mounting plate cracks. Replacement? (Brian Denk)
20. 05:33 PM - Prop/Backfire (John Furey)
21. 05:37 PM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] New RV website, plenum pics moved (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
22. 05:45 PM - Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
23. 05:56 PM - Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II (Charlie England)
24. 06:00 PM - Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures (Kosta Lewis)
25. 07:09 PM - Re: Prop/Backfire (Jim Cimino)
26. 07:47 PM - Re: Tomorrow is the day..... (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
27. 08:04 PM - Tru Trak hardware (Bob Collins)
28. 09:18 PM - Re: Dynon OAT (Larry Bowen)
29. 09:37 PM - Re: Mounting electric primer valve (Jerry Isler)
30. 09:53 PM - Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures (Scott VanArtsdalen)
31. 10:15 PM - Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
In the 24 years of the RVator, there's a cowl mod on page 322 that looks interesting.
Climb temps were really bad so increased cowl outlet area by adding louvers
to the bottom of the scoop.
Anyone else done this? Seems so simple and logical. Anyone who's played around
with enough different RC model planes engine/prop/muffler combinations has probably
been in this territory a time or three.
Too bad we can't experiment with props as ea$y as we can on RC planes...
Also, there's a 4 or 5 page writeup (with pictures and drawings) by Van himself
on the RV8 tail shakes and the strake solution. They did say they were effective
in cancelling out the prolonged prestall buffet the 8 has. But they didn't
bother to measure any drag or speed penalty due to the strakes. They also
didn't discuss slower stall speeds/better landings. They had tunnel vision on
the tail shakes (must have had a LOT of alarmed phase 1 test flight RV8 flyers
calling in concerned...)
In the 24 years of the RVator, there's a cowl mod on page 322 that looks interesting.
Climb temps were really bad so increased cowl outlet area by adding louvers
to the bottom of the scoop.
Anyone else done this? Seems so simple and logical. Anyone who's played around
with enough different RC model planesengine/prop/muffler combinations has probably
been in this territory a time or three.
Too bad we can't experiment with props as ea$y aswe can on RC planes...
Also, there's a 4 or 5 page writeup (with pictures and drawings) by Van himself
on the RV8 tail shakes and the strake solution. They did say they were effective
in cancelling out the prolonged prestall buffet the 8 has. But they didn't
bother to measure any drag or speed penalty due to the strakes. They also didn't
discuss slower stall speeds/better landings. They had tunnel vision on the
tail shakes (must have had a LOT of alarmed phase 1 test flight RV8 flyers calling
in concerned...)
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Also, there's a 4 or 5 page writeup (with pictures and drawings) by Van himself
on the
> RV8 tail shakes and the strake solution. They did say they were effective in
cancelling
> out the prolonged prestall buffet the 8 has. But they didn't bother to measure
any drag
> or speed penalty due to the strakes. They also didn't discuss slower stall speeds/better
> landings. They had tunnel vision on the tail shakes (must have had a LOT of
alarmed
> phase 1 test flight RV8 flyers calling in concerned...)
>
Hi,
I saw these on Stuart McCurdy's RV8 at SNF, but didn't have much of
a chance to talk to him about them. I was under the impression that
that this prestall buffet was not a big deal. I have not yet read
the Van's article. Is this something a lot of people are complaining
about?
Thanks,
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Wow looks really sharp!! I'm very very impressed. The only thing I would
like to see is a general section under each group. So all RV'ers can post
general questions that relate to all RV planes.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
From: "Sean Caranna" <VP2Flyer@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: New RV forums
--> RV-List message posted by: "Sean Caranna" <VP2Flyer@cfl.rr.com>
I've started a new aircraft homebuilding forum at http://www.WingsForum.com
"They" say that a picture is worth a thousand words. The ability to attach
spreadsheets, documents, and CAD files can speak volumes.
I am not asking anyone to leave this list. I'm just offering an additional
resource that will offer easily accessible photo and data file content
intergraded with the message threads. http://www.wingsforum.com also has
form based email and private messaging that will nonpublic communications
while protecting your email address from SPAM email harvesters.
http://www.WingsForum.com was created because the email based groups just
can't compete with the forum format for organization of topics, searching
information already covered by a group, and relevancy of information
presented. I can't tell you how many HOURS of my life have been wasted
scrolling through off topic threads and information irrelevant to my search
on Yahoo and MSN groups. Lets face it, if you are looking for info on your
spar why should you need to scroll through 30 email post on firewalls 5
about rudders and 2 about nothing at all?
At http://www.WingsForum.com you will find topics well organized, pictures
and relevant files directly attached to their post, private messaging, and
more all on one site. Forum membership is, and will always be, FREE. Try
in out, it cost nothing, and you just might like it. If you don't like it
just let me know how I can improve the site.
Email Digest are available for those who prefer them. You can customize
them for what forums you want to watch, if you want a short excerpt or full
messages of up to 36,000 characters, and what time of day they will be
delivered to you. Users just click the Digest link at the top of the page
once logged in to enable them.
Thanks for your consideration,
Sean C. Caranna
Message 4
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| Subject: | Tomorrow is the day..... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
You're a brave man! Not for flying a fresh homebuilt aircraft for the first
time; I'm refering to the singing Karaoke :)
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: RV-List: Tomorrow is the day.....
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
<sisson@consolidated.net>
Do not archive
I missed being number 4000 like so many first flyers did, But I am going
to be the first New RV6 to fly in 2005 if all goes well.
I have about an hour of work to do on the right seat screws and put some
gas in it and fly it..
Weather in the midwest for tomorrow is possible T-Storms....... WX today
was upper 60's and sunny..
Tonight I am going to sing Karaoke.......... Toimorrow, I
fly............ Tomorrow night, I give a report..Maybe some pictures..
Happy New Year...
Phil in Illinois Sure wish I had an RV-6 to fly...........
do not archive.
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Looking for new owner of N16JA in Cottage Grove, OR |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
or you could just send him a regular letter in the post . . .
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
From: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Looking for new owner of N16JA in Cottage Grove, OR
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
I looked up the RV-6 I built and have found a "registration
pending" on it. The address for the new owner is:
520 Palmer Ave #52
Cottage Grove, OR
I'd like to talk to the new owner and see how "my" baby is
doing now. It last flew on a flight to a small town just
north of Boise. The landing left a lot to be desired, I'm
told, with damage to the left wingtip, vert stab, prop,
canopy, etc.
If anyone could contact me with the new owners name/phone
number I'll give him a call. Or, alternately, he could call
me. I'm "in the book" in Seattle. In fact, only two
Ammeters are listed, my listing is the first one, second is
my wifes phone...
jammeter@comcast.net
John Ammeter
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
lucky wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
>In the 24 years of the RVator, there's a cowl mod on page 322 that looks interesting.
Climb temps were really bad so increased cowl outlet area by adding louvers
to the bottom of the scoop.
>
>Anyone else done this? Seems so simple and logical. Anyone who's played around
with enough different RC model planes engine/prop/muffler combinations has
probably been in this territory a time or three.
>
>Too bad we can't experiment with props as ea$y as we can on RC planes...
>
snipped
RE: louvers,
Take a look at
http://www.cafefoundation.org/aprs/localflow2.pdf
& then look at the cowl in photos of the Reno racer Lancair Legacy.
I have nothing to offer on the '-8 shake' issue.
Charlie
Message 7
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| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Instrument Panel Etching |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net>
Mark,
Aircraft Engravers has been doing exactly what you requested and have been
do it successfully for over 12 years. The aircraft that have used this
process look like they came from the factory as can be attested to the
numerous awards that their owners have won. As to the durability, it can't
be beat, I personally inspected our very first panel done this way a few
months ago and it looked just as good now as when it was made.
If someone says that it doesn't hold up they; 1) Don't know what they are
talking about. OR 2) The paint used was of poor quality. OR 3) It was not
painted correctly. OR 4) The engraver didn't know how to do it. Just think
for a moment, if you use a good quality two part paint to paint a car, how
long does it last in an outside environment. Now how long do you think that
same paint would last inside your cockpit? See
http://www.engravers.net/aircraft/painted_panels.htm for more info.
We do a lot of other types of engraving for aircraft, also see
http://www.engravers.net/main/ac_products.htm
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
PS Thanks Bruce for the recommendation
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I've seen this a few times at the various shows, where they take your
> panel,
> paint it with a base coat, then a top coat, then laser etch the top coat
> away revealing the base coat colour underneath for all the labelling.
>
> I can't remember who does this, or any idea of how much it would cost, but
> if anyone can remember the company name, or has any info, please let me
> know.
>
> Thanks a bunch.
>
> Mark.
> http://home.comcast.net/~mtaylo17/RV7/
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I saw an RV6 have this arrangement built by Mike Wonder of Bloomington
Indiana. He does not post on this list however. I am not sure where he
actually had the oil cooler mounted but the NACA inlet on one side of the
cowling was his source of cooling air. I am sure it adds some small amount
of drag.
One added concern with the NACA is the air tube disconnecting while in
flight, since it will be disconnected and reconnected with each cowling
removal. Also, we know the air flow is from high pressure inside the
baffling to the low pressure side outside the baffling -- so unless we
fabricate some sort of new air exhaust path matched up for the added NACA
air coming in, we will be making the normal low pressure air side of the
system less functional which will increase CHT temps. Loss of tube or
reengineering the air pressure concern is not a problem with a baffle
mounted cooler location.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Has anybody tried a firewall mount oil cooler with a naca inlet and duct
> off the side of the cowling? I'm wondering if that might be a way to not
> steal cooling air from the cylinders. Does anybody make a naca inlet
> that's big enough for a 3" scat?
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
> VanArtsdalen
> To: Rv-List; RV-4@yahoogroups.com
> Subject: RV-List: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> All this oil cooler talk has got me wanting to move my oil cooler off
> the firewall to a spot where it will get better cooling. I've seen
> several installations over the years that I've liked but I've forgotten
> where all these pictures were. If anyone has an pictures of their RV-4
> oil cooler installations I'd sure like to take a look. Especially if
> you've mounted it on the baffle or engine mount behind good ol' #4.
> Maybe even in the cheek cowling.
>
> Thanks!
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> Van Arts Consulting Services
> 3848 McHenry Ave
> Suite #155-184
> Modesto, CA 95356
> 209-986-4647
> Ps 34:4,6
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/1/05 8:23:53 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
luckymacy@comcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
In the 24 years of the RVator, there's a cowl mod on page 322 that looks
interesting. Climb temps were really bad so increased cowl outlet area by
adding louvers to the bottom of the scoop.
Lucky,
Why do you write everything twice?
Dan
Lucky,
Why do you write everything twice?
Dan
Do not archive!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>>
>> Has anybody tried a firewall mount oil cooler with a naca inlet and
>> duct
>> off the side of the cowling? I'm wondering if that might be a way to
>> not
>> steal cooling air from the cylinders. Does anybody make a naca inlet
>> that's big enough for a 3" scat?
>>
>>
>
>
There is a beautiful turbocharged RV8 with the oil cooler set up this
way. I forget the guy's name off the top of my head, but i get few
pictures of it at OSH.
see:
http://homepage.mac.com/flyeyes/PhotoAlbum17.html
Message 11
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| Subject: | mounting vertical card compass |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
I am planning my panel and the instructions on the vertical card compass says not
to mount in the panel as vibration will take its toll.=A0 Has anybody monted
it in the panel with modification to reduce the vibrations? Thanks for the input=0D=0A=0D=0A
Wayne=0D=0A S.Alberta RV7a 'panel"=0D=0A=0D=0A
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting electric primer valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 12/31/04 3:48:18 PM Pacific Standard Time, kbob@cox.net
writes:
<< How do you mount the electric fuel primer valve that Van's sells? >>
I mounted mine on the firewall using a bracket made from a scrap of 0.125 X
1.5" aluminum angle. The primer valve hangs down using the two screw holes in
the end of the valve. BTW, I noticed after about 15 hours that the big nut on
the bottom of the valve was backing off due, I assume, to vibration. I tried
Locktight on it but it's too soon at 20 hours to know if that will work or not.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying, 20+ hours.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures |
--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
I remember talking to this gent at lenght. He said he had fair to good
results but the ramp and shape of the duct turned out to be more
critical than expected.
James Freeman wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
>
>
>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>>>
>>>Has anybody tried a firewall mount oil cooler with a naca inlet and
>>>duct
>>>off the side of the cowling? I'm wondering if that might be a way to
>>>not
>>>steal cooling air from the cylinders. Does anybody make a naca inlet
>>>that's big enough for a 3" scat?
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>There is a beautiful turbocharged RV8 with the oil cooler set up this
>way. I forget the guy's name off the top of my head, but i get few
>pictures of it at OSH.
>
>see:
>
>http://homepage.mac.com/flyeyes/PhotoAlbum17.html
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 14
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Just want to say thanks to you all for a great year of building fuel tanks. You
guys have provided me with enough work to survive yet another year covered in
proseal:) I have been doing this now for almost 7 years and 200+ sets of tanks
and I am still enjoying every minute. For those of you who have resolved to
get your airframes built this coming year, please consider letting me help you
get there. I can generally crank out a set of new tanks in about two weeks, and
my workmanship is first rate. I have been considering expanding into other
aspects of builder assistance. If any of you guys would like me to help build
your empennage or complete wings please let me know. In the past several builders
have asked me to build their entire airframe and I have always turned them
down. Now that I have some good help I can consider these larger, longer term
projects.
Cheers.....
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
RV-10 Almost ready for the fuselage kit!
Message 15
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| Subject: | New RV website, plenum pics moved |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
After flying for almost a year, I finally got around to putting up a web
site. I moved the pictures of my aluminum plenum, which I had posted
elsewhere, to this site as well. It is not a complete how-to site like
some have done, just a few mods I have made and photos which I often get
requests for. Hopefully someone will find something useful in there.
http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/index.htm
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: mounting vertical card compass |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
Wayne,
I mounted my compass to the panel through a piece of 1/8" reinforced
silicone baffle seal.
I posted a couple of photos on my web site.
http://users.aol.com/n67bt (scroll down to "Older Stuff")
The 1/8" seal is rather stiff so I think I would try some thinner material
the next time.
Bob Trumpfheller
<<I am planning my panel and the instructions on the vertical card compass
says not to mount in the panel as vibration will take its toll.=A0 Has anybody
monted it in the panel with modification to reduce the vibrations? Thanks
for the input>>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List:Something else Was: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
This is all really interesting but has diregressed from the original
subjuct of my inquiry. Would you guys mind changing the subject line?
Thanks!
Do not archive.
gert wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
>
>I remember talking to this gent at lenght. He said he had fair to good
>results but the ramp and shape of the duct turned out to be more
>critical than expected.
>
>
>James Freeman wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>>>>
>>>>Has anybody tried a firewall mount oil cooler with a naca inlet and
>>>>duct
>>>>off the side of the cowling? I'm wondering if that might be a way to
>>>>not
>>>>steal cooling air from the cylinders. Does anybody make a naca inlet
>>>>that's big enough for a 3" scat?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>There is a beautiful turbocharged RV8 with the oil cooler set up this
>>way. I forget the guy's name off the top of my head, but i get few
>>pictures of it at OSH.
>>
>>see:
>>
>>http://homepage.mac.com/flyeyes/PhotoAlbum17.html
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
After struggling with trying to get the OAT function up and running, I
finally decided to wire everything up, leave it alone, and worry with it
another day. Then I got to going through all of the menu functions and low
and behold, I found out why the unit did not see the probe. It was turned
off in the D10A. After selecting YES when the unit asked if the probe was
installed it started working. Also I found that you can select degrees
Fahrenheit or degrees Celsius for the temperature display. I used the
following key strokes to get the OAT working. From the main menu, MORE -
SETUP - MORE - MORE - OAT - and then YES when it asked if OAT installed.
None of this was mentioned in the installation guide for the OAT probe. Also
degree F was not mentioned (that I found), I just stumbled across it.
Jerry Isler
RV4 N455J
Donalsonville, GA
Subject: RV-List: Dynon OAT
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
>
> After Fed Ex-ing a Dynon OAT probe from ACS on the west coast, to Georgia,
I
> cannot get the system to recognize that it is installed. I have the
external
> compass connected and working properly and I have checked, re-checked, and
> checked again the wiring for the probe. Its only three wires into a 9 pin
> connector so it's not that hard. Has anyone had trouble getting a Dynon
D10A
> to recognize the OAT probe? What are the values of the probe in ohms?
Should
> I see the values change if I heat up the probe? The three wires from the
> probe are as follows. Blue (ground), red, and yellow. I do not know what
> the red and yellow wires actually are because they connect to the compass
> module with not explanation.
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | FAB mounting plate cracks. Replacement? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
Listers,
I'm in the middle of my fifth annual on my RV8 and have found two cracks in
the alu FAB box plate. It's cracking at the rear, through the outer edge of
a carb mounting hole and the other is alongside the left front mounting
hole. No signs of FAB box impact or chafing on the cowling is evident.
Good ole Lycosaur shake must have taken it's toll.
What do ya'll think about using a sheet of phenolic instead? Would be an
easy piece to make with a rotozip and dremel sanding wheel. Spruce sells it
in 1/8" sheets that I think would be just about the right thickness. I
could also layup a sheet of carbon with West Systems and machine it. It
would look cool but the phenolic is ready to use and mighty tough. Any
downsides to this?
Thanks,
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I just switched to a Hartzel CS prop on my 6A with an O-320. I have heard
several people say they get a backfire when reducing power quickly with this
prop and I have found the same thing. Anyone else experience this? Any
explanation?
Thanks,
John Furey RV6A O-320 New hartzel replaced Sensenich
Message 21
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|
vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] New RV website, plenum pics moved |
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Hi Jeff,
Here's some more questions:
1) Is it 'water proof'?
2) In the second picture, what's the shiny aluminum that looks attached to the
hinge?
3) I want a cool camlock on my oil door. What is the part number of the one you
are using on the wing tip locker?
4) got a picture of the wing tip door forward of the hinge while the door is only
halfway up? curious if you have any underlap under the wing tip.
>
>
> After flying for almost a year, I finally got around to putting up a web
> site. I moved the pictures of my aluminum plenum, which I had posted
> elsewhere, to this site as well. It is not a complete how-to site like
> some have done, just a few mods I have made and photos which I often get
> requests for. Hopefully someone will find something useful in there.
>
> http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/index.htm
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
Does it always happen? I don't generally read my own mail. I think it may have
started when i switched to comcast and I don't know if it ALWAYS happens to
everyone or every forum I write to. Any ideas on how to stop it would be nice....Might
have something to do with their popup blockers or other spam/virus filtering
stuff.
do not archive
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 1/1/05 8:23:53 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> luckymacy@comcast.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> In the 24 years of the RVator, there's a cowl mod on page 322 that looks
> interesting. Climb temps were really bad so increased cowl outlet area by
> adding louvers to the bottom of the scoop.
>
>
> Lucky,
> Why do you write everything twice?
> Dan
>
>
> Lucky,
> Why do you write everything twice?
> Dan
>
> Do not archive!
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: 200HP cowl louver mod & strake discussion II |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
This one looks fine with only one copy.
lucky wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
>Does it always happen? I don't generally read my own mail. I think it may have
started when i switched to comcast and I don't know if it ALWAYS happens to
everyone or every forum I write to. Any ideas on how to stop it would be nice....Might
have something to do with their popup blockers or other spam/virus
filtering stuff.
>
>
>do not archive
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>>
>>
>>In a message dated 1/1/05 8:23:53 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
>>luckymacy@comcast.net writes:
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>>
>>In the 24 years of the RVator, there's a cowl mod on page 322 that looks
>>interesting. Climb temps were really bad so increased cowl outlet area by
>>adding louvers to the bottom of the scoop.
>>
>>
>>Lucky,
>>Why do you write everything twice?
>>Dan
>>
>>
>>Lucky,
>>Why do you write everything twice?
>>Dan
>>
>>Do not archive!
>>
Message 24
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| Subject: | RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
I have a really cool (pun intended) set up with the oil cooler mounted
on a bracket that is mounted to the engine mount behind cylinder #3. I
will send photos when I quit flying long enough to pull the cowl and
take some. The hoses have never flexed enough to cause problems in over
800 hours. The bracket is solidly mounted with the bolts going through
STEEL tubing where they pass through the cooler. The mount itself is
made of 4130 steel tubing.
My set up is a two inch scat taken off the rear baffle and into a duct
system welded out of aluminum with a simple gate at the back of the
cooler, also mounted to a welded duct with a 3 inch hole going out the
back. The cooler door, of course, is controlled from the cockpit. I have
to block the intake partially below 70 degrees average OAT and almost
completely below 50 degrees average. I also have a piece of cylinder
ducting to get cool air into the oil cooler intake that is taken off as
the OAT cools. It keeps the air into the cooler cooler (!) and the air
to the cylinder away from the air going into the cooler which better
cools the cylinder. Or something like that.
I have NEVER gotten to redline oil temperature, or even close, even in
long climbs to altitude in summer heat. I open the gate at oil
temperatures above about 180, keeping it closed for takeoff. YMMV; the
-4s don't usually have heating problems anyway. Keeping things warm is
occasionally the problem. Ask me about average cylinder head
temperatures: they are WAAAAY below redline.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Prop/Backfire |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Have never had that problem with my set-up, but I have fuel injections which
could make it different.
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RV-List: Prop/Backfire
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> I just switched to a Hartzel CS prop on my 6A with an O-320. I have heard
> several people say they get a backfire when reducing power quickly with
this
> prop and I have found the same thing. Anyone else experience this? Any
> explanation?
>
> Thanks,
> John Furey RV6A O-320 New hartzel replaced Sensenich
>
>
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Tomorrow is the day..... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
do not archive
..............................................................................................................................................
Well, I got to sing a lot of Karaoke last night, but I didnt get to fly
today......... What a bummer..
I got in at 1:30 AM, I got up at 8:30. (consumed mostly diet cokes)
Airport is 2 miles up the street, I knew it was going to be bad when I
couldnt see a half mile down the street in this one horse town.
http://www.litchfieldil.com/airport/Pilot%20Info.htm
Got to the airport and one mile vis and 400" ceiling....
We finished up everything and it was all ready. I waited with one foot
on the ground and one foot on the wing for 7 hours.The vis went to 1/2
mile and ceiling lingered from 400 to 600 all day.
About dark the ceiling went to 7000 scattered and visibility opened
up... I probably won't be first in 2005 to fly fresh RV.. Guess I will
try again in the morning...
.
I hope I have time flown off for Sun and Fun.......................
Phil in Illinois, Sure wish I had some good weather to fly
in........
do not archive
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Tru Trak hardware |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
I'm curious if anyone has a hardware callout for mounting the Tru Trak servo
to the brackets. In perusing the archives it seems the best way to handle
this is reaming out the holes and using a bolt and nut. So I'm also looking
for any site or info that explains the art of safety wiring.
Thanks
Bob Collins
St. Paul, Minn.
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Are you referring to the D10 or the D10A? I haven't found a way to change
my D10 to Fahrenheit. I wish I could.
Are you listening Dynon?
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jerry Isler [mailto:jlisler@alltel.net]
> Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2005 5:09 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon OAT
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
>
> After struggling with trying to get the OAT function up and
> running, I finally decided to wire everything up, leave it
> alone, and worry with it another day. Then I got to going
> through all of the menu functions and low and behold, I found
> out why the unit did not see the probe. It was turned off in
> the D10A. After selecting YES when the unit asked if the
> probe was installed it started working. Also I found that
> you can select degrees Fahrenheit or degrees Celsius for the
> temperature display. I used the following key strokes to get
> the OAT working. From the main menu, MORE - SETUP - MORE -
> MORE - OAT - and then YES when it asked if OAT installed.
> None of this was mentioned in the installation guide for the
> OAT probe. Also degree F was not mentioned (that I found), I
> just stumbled across it.
>
> Jerry Isler
> RV4 N455J
> Donalsonville, GA
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: Dynon OAT
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
> >
> > After Fed Ex-ing a Dynon OAT probe from ACS on the west coast, to
> > Georgia,
> I
> > cannot get the system to recognize that it is installed. I have the
> external
> > compass connected and working properly and I have checked,
> re-checked,
> > and checked again the wiring for the probe. Its only three
> wires into
> > a 9 pin connector so it's not that hard. Has anyone had trouble
> > getting a Dynon
> D10A
> > to recognize the OAT probe? What are the values of the
> probe in ohms?
> Should
> > I see the values change if I heat up the probe? The three
> wires from
> > the probe are as follows. Blue (ground), red, and yellow. I do not
> > know what the red and yellow wires actually are because
> they connect
> > to the compass module with not explanation.
>
>
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Mounting electric primer valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
I mounted mine to the firewall using an aluminum manifold block from ACS.
This block has two bolt holes for mounting and an inlet port and two outlet
ports. I mounted the primer solenoid and an Electronics International fuel
pressure transmitter on the outlets. A hose connects the block to the outlet
of the fuel pump. Any unused ports can be plugged. See
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/alummanifoldfit.php for
further details.
Jerry Isler
RV4 N455J
Donalsonville, GA.
Subject: RV-List: Mounting electric primer valve
RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
How do you mount the electric fuel primer valve that Van's sells?
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-4 Oil Cooler pictures |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Pictures would be great. But I understand about it being hard to quit
flying! I need to do my contition inspection and I've been moping about
that for weeks. But in January, it's time. That's why I'm going to
take this opportunity to move the cooler off the firewall. My oil temps
HAVE gotten to redline and it wasn't a good feeling.
Kosta Lewis wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
>I have a really cool (pun intended) set up with the oil cooler mounted
>on a bracket that is mounted to the engine mount behind cylinder #3. I
>will send photos when I quit flying long enough to pull the cowl and
>take some. The hoses have never flexed enough to cause problems in over
>800 hours. The bracket is solidly mounted with the bolts going through
>STEEL tubing where they pass through the cooler. The mount itself is
>made of 4130 steel tubing.
>
>My set up is a two inch scat taken off the rear baffle and into a duct
>system welded out of aluminum with a simple gate at the back of the
>cooler, also mounted to a welded duct with a 3 inch hole going out the
>back. The cooler door, of course, is controlled from the cockpit. I have
>to block the intake partially below 70 degrees average OAT and almost
>completely below 50 degrees average. I also have a piece of cylinder
>ducting to get cool air into the oil cooler intake that is taken off as
>the OAT cools. It keeps the air into the cooler cooler (!) and the air
>to the cylinder away from the air going into the cooler which better
>cools the cylinder. Or something like that.
>
>I have NEVER gotten to redline oil temperature, or even close, even in
>long climbs to altitude in summer heat. I open the gate at oil
>temperatures above about 180, keeping it closed for takeoff. YMMV; the
>-4s don't usually have heating problems anyway. Keeping things warm is
>occasionally the problem. Ask me about average cylinder head
>temperatures: they are WAAAAY below redline.
>
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
Ps 34:4,6
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Cooler Flange Failure |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com> (by way of Matt Dralle <nospam@matronics.com>)
A couple of links you might find interesting.
I had the identical cracking problem, first the baffle, than the oil cooler
Here are two examples, the first is from a F-1 and is similar what I did
on my RV-4 after I relocated the cooler off the rear baffle:
http://www.f1-rocketboy.com/baffles.htm
OR
http://www.bidasst.bizland.com/engine.htm
The second example above shows a good diffuser. The builder reports his
IO-360 (200hp) RV-8 has low oil temps of 190F, so it works well. He used a
4" dia scat. Van's kit makes use of a 3" dia scat and a square small
aluminum box attach to the cooler. Van's cooler kit may work OK but may not
allow some coolers to operate at max capacity. That is why some RV's run
hot. With a good design, a remote cooler should run as cool or even more
cool than RV's with the oil cooler mounted directly to the baffle.
My solution was to mount it just off the baffle and support the cooler off
the engine mount and duct it like the F-1 example above. I no longer had
cooler or baffle cracks and dropped #4 CHT by 20F.
Fatigue: The cooler on a shaking engine is a fatigue machine. The flat
sheet metal of the baffle and oil cooler flanges are loaded in shear and
bending. Even by tying the oil cooler flanges together with bolts and
spacers, they still act as individual flat sheet metal flanges in bending.
Plus the slotted mounting holes do not help the flanges strength.
The spacers and washers do help to put the flanges reduce bending stress,
but not completely. A better example would be a two blocks (wood,
composite, aluminum w/ lighting holes) that fills the space between the
cooler flanges on both sides. The block fits snug and all bolts penetrate
the blocks. This would be more effective then a small aluminum spacer, even
with washers. The load would be spread out more and the flange would be
almost completely in shear.
Instead of washers that hang out in the air, suggest straps that nest the
full length of the cooler's flange (0.100-0.125 thick aluminum). These are
straps or "radius fillers" would spread the load out better than
washers. Even with cooler and baffle reinforcements what are the internal
welds of the cooler doing?
The rear baffle is poorly supported, and may eventually crack sooner or
later, even if the cooler does not. One end of the rear baffle is attached
to a shaking, expanding cylinder with one bolt (?), the other end is
attached with a bracket (and one bolt?), and the top and bottom of the rear
baffle are unsupported and subjected to air loads. Again it is flat sheet
metal in bending. Hang 5-7 lbs off the baffle and you may have similar
problems.
Dan no doubt did a great job, but even with everything balanced well a
Lycoming still vibrates (a lot). Some people have better luck with
baffle-mounted coolers because of the engine/prop/airframe/baffle/oil
cooler size/etc...... (ie, wood props, smaller size cooler, less vibration
and stress).
I tried the baffle-mounted cooler and did not care for it, and eventually
switched. So even if you go this way you can always change. People who
have cooling problems with remote mounted coolers may want to try one of
the methods shown above. I think a smooth wall tube/duct would be better
than scat.
Take care, Happy Holidays, G
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