Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:32 AM - Re: first new RV flight in 2005 (Jeff Point)
2. 01:58 AM - "POP" rivets (David Fenstermacher)
3. 04:28 AM - Looking for Brad Heinitz, strake builder (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
4. 05:51 AM - Bending firewall...how much? When? (Andrew Douglas)
5. 07:49 AM - Re: first new RV flight in 2005 (Charles Rowbotham)
6. 08:01 AM - Rv-7 Removable Floors (Piavis)
7. 08:03 AM - Re: first new RV flight in 2005 (Jeff Dowling)
8. 08:21 AM - Re: Looking for Brad Heinitz, strake builder (Randy Lervold)
9. 08:27 AM - Re: FAB mounting plate cracks. Replacement? ()
10. 08:32 AM - Re: Looking for Brad Heinitz, strake builder (David Burton)
11. 08:45 AM - FIRE SUPPRESSION SYSTEMS: RV-List Digest: 22 Msgs - 12/06/04 (RV4WGH@aol.com)
12. 08:56 AM - Re: Rv-7 Removable Floors (Ralph E. Capen)
13. 09:42 AM - Re: Bending firewall...how much? When? (Dan Checkoway)
14. 09:42 AM - Re: "POP" rivets (Bill Dube)
15. 10:49 AM - Re: Bending firewall...how much? When? (Jim Jewell)
16. 11:10 AM - Baffle-sourced fresh air (Randy Lervold)
17. 12:10 PM - Re: Baffle-sourced fresh air (Mike Robertson)
18. 12:46 PM - Re: Baffle-sourced fresh air (Randy Lervold)
19. 01:13 PM - Iridite powder available in Tennessee (j1j2h3@juno.com)
20. 02:40 PM - Powder coating, spiral wrap and a pre-oiler (David Paule)
21. 03:50 PM - Re: "POP" rivets (David Fenstermacher)
22. 04:08 PM - Re: RV-8 Strakes (Kevin Horton)
23. 04:14 PM - Lycoming Shaking (Emrath)
24. 04:28 PM - WTB Sensinich Prop (Doug Rozendaal)
25. 04:37 PM - Re: Baffle-sourced fresh air (H.Ivan Haecker)
26. 04:49 PM - Re: alternator (Bill Dube)
27. 05:07 PM - Ocala (Alex Peterson)
28. 05:30 PM - Wheel/pant clearance (Darwin N. Barrie)
29. 05:31 PM - Re: Ocala (Ed Anderson)
30. 06:43 PM - Re: Lycoming Shaking (Terry Watson)
31. 06:52 PM - Re: first new RV flight in 2005 (Mark/Micki Phillips)
32. 06:56 PM - QRe: Baffle-sourced fresh air (Kosta Lewis)
33. 07:05 PM - release the hounds (Evan and Megan Johnson)
34. 07:28 PM - Re: Wheel/pant clearance (LarryRobertHelming)
35. 07:29 PM - Re: Rv-7 Removable Floors (Kathleen (rv7))
36. 07:49 PM - Re: release the hounds (Brian Kraut)
37. 07:49 PM - Re: RV-8 Strakes (Dave Bristol)
38. 08:41 PM - Re: release the hounds (Brian Denk)
39. 08:45 PM - Re: Wheel/pant clearance (Larry Bowen)
40. 10:31 PM - Re: first new RV flight in 2005 (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: first new RV flight in 2005 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Phil,
Congrats and well done! Fly-in idea sounds great, count me and at least
6-8 others from around here in.
Jeff Point
RV-6 first flight '04 (yesterday's news...) also nekkid
Milwaukee WI
do not archive
Message 2
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0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
Is there an easy way to differentiate "structural" and "non-structural" pop rivets?
Thanks,
Dave
David Fenstermacher
dfenstermacher@earthlink.net
Message 3
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| Subject: | Looking for Brad Heinitz, strake builder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
This fella was making the strakes for the 8.
He charges $100 for the pair. I paid him mid November and haven not seen
them yet.
Im pretty sure he is in the Arlington Wa area. Back of check says The
Aerodyne Shop.
Can someone please put me in touch with him?
Thanks
Michael Stewart
S8 Canopy
Do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Bending firewall...how much? When? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
I'm helping out on a 7A, and we're assembling the firewall right now.
Question 1: How much to bend the firewall
Several drawings clearly show the upper part of the firewall being bent
forward, but we can't find any reference to actually doing this in the
instructions or on the drawings: Neither the amount of the bend nor when and
how to do it.
It *looks* like the bent portion should be at right angles to the F-718
upper longeron, but we're not sure of this...it just looks that way on the
drawings.
On Dwg. 18, the bend in the forward portion of this longeron is called out
at 5.6 degrees from horizontal...which suggests that the bend in the
firewall should also be 5.6 degrees from flat.
Assuming that the bend is at right angles to the longeron in the first
place.
Does anyone have a definitive answer on this?
I suppose we could just wait until the forward fuselage is all clecoed
together, then fit the upper front skin and see how much we need to bend it
to match the holes in the skin, but....
Question 2: How and when does one actually do it?
I'm thinking we need to fabricate a bending brake to make that bend cleanly.
Given that the bend is right where the upper stiffener (F-601L) lies, won't
this stiffener get in the way? This suggests that we should bend the
firewall before assembling it.
Can anyone give guidance on how you did it?
Thanks....
Andrew Douglas
(FNG)
PS: I found one reference in the archives to this, in which somebody wrote
that he just "deflected the firewall to match the ribs," but it seems to me
that this would place unnecessary stress on the firewall.
Message 5
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| Subject: | first new RV flight in 2005 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Phil,
CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com, Keith Hedrick OD <khedrick@frontiernet.net>,
>"Merle V. Prusia" <gold.winger@verizon.net>, "Lawrence, Jeffrey A"
><jeffrey.a.lawrence@boeing.com>, Mark Phillips <mphill@gcctv.com>, Robert
>Wade <wade_usmc@msn.com>, "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>, Brent Smith
><stuntpilot@worldnet.att.net>
>Subject: RV-List: first new RV flight in 2005
>Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2005 17:49:44 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
><sisson@consolidated.net>
>
>do not archive
>
>Was I the first new RV to fly in 2005? serial number 20762 If not,
>speak up and I will gladly concede....
>Here is a web site with the pix..
Message 6
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| Subject: | Rv-7 Removable Floors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Piavis" <piavis@pacbell.net>
Does anyone have decent photos of removable baggage floors? I'm at that
point where it would be nice to drill for plate nuts on the baggage ribs but
I'm having some problems finding a couple pictures to follow, especially
around the F680 flap bearing block and the backrest brace.
Thanks,
Jim
-7 Fuse
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: first new RV flight in 2005 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Mines pretty ugly :)
do not archive
to be painted within the decade
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: first new RV flight in 2005
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Congratulations, Phil! Regardless of whether the first in 05, a great
> accomplishment.
> Remember, there are NO ugly RVs, just some with more cosmetic enhancement
> than others {:>)
>
> Ed Anderson
> Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
> Matthews, NC
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; "Keith Hedrick OD"
> <khedrick@frontiernet.net>;
> "Merle V. Prusia" <gold.winger@verizon.net>; "Lawrence, Jeffrey A"
> <jeffrey.a.lawrence@boeing.com>; "Mark Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>;
> "Robert
> Wade" <wade_usmc@msn.com>; "Bob U." <rv3@comcast.net>; "Brent Smith"
> <stuntpilot@worldnet.att.net>
> Subject: RV-List: first new RV flight in 2005
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> <sisson@consolidated.net>
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>> Was I the first new RV to fly in 2005? serial number 20762 If not,
>> speak up and I will gladly concede....
>> Here is a web site with the pix..
>> http://www.litchfieldil.com/members/airport/
>> Today, our wx here was crappy, just like yesterday. When I woke up this
>> morning the awos was reporting 1/2 and 200 feet.... I went back to
>> sleep........
>> Finally got up and took my usual Sunday mornig trip to a daughters house
>> for breakfast.......
>> Kept calling awos and there was a slight rise in conditions... Hmmm.
>>
>> I got back to the airport at about 11:45 or so and rolled the plane out.
>> At that time we had about 2200 and 7 or 8 miles.
>> Someone said if I didnt fly now, we were going to get rained
>> on.......... 'nuff said...
>> I gave it a final going over and jumped in, started it up and taxied
>> out..
>> Run-up was routine, all things checked out good and it was time to
>> go........
>> Lined her up and squeezed in the power. (180hp with Sensenich 85 inch)
>> This baby doesn't rev much at static or slow speeds.. I kept the tail a
>> little low and I was off in perhaps 5 or 6 hundred feet (maybe less or
>> more). I was off the ground at about 12:15 CST
>>
>> Cloud bottoms were about 2000 feet and wx was slowly deteriorating. In
>> level flight turning 2450 to 2500, I indicated about 180 on both the
>> Dynon and a regular Airspeed indicator.. Oil temp climbed up to about
>> 180 and leveled off. When taxi-ing in, the oil temp was slowly climbing
>> up and was up to 190. I think it was not going to go much higher. I have
>> an old used Stewart Warner oil cooler.
>> I was concerned some about the closness of the exhaust pipe bends to the
>> cowling so I installed the aluminum sticky back foil. The cowling was
>> not even warm. But yesterday, after a 3 minute full power runup, the
>> cowling did heat up a little. Now I know it is not going to be a problem.
>> Stall speed with full flaps was about 52 or 53 indicated. I didnt do a
>> flaps up stall yet. Weather was closing in on me so I couldn't do all I
>> wanted to do...
>> I was flying with about 13 or 14 gallons fuel in right side and just a
>> couple gallons in left side.
>> I had some heavy right wing which may be result of most fuel on right
>> side. I also needed a very small amout of "left" rudder, almost none at
>> all. Upper and lower intersection fairings are not installed on it yet.
>> Actually I don't even have any yet.... Maybe when these are bought and
>> installed it will be in trim. Maybe it will trim up with the gear leg
>> fairings..
>> It all ended too soon. Look at the Pictures on the above website.
>> Yes it is an Ugly RV but it will get painted next Spring. Look how short
>> it looks with that gray cowling and nose. Hopefully I will have it at
>> Sun and Fun...Look for the Ugly duckling down there...
>> Bob Urban said there are no ugly RV's...
>> This plane was originally started by Merle Prussia in Monroe, Washington
>> in early 1990's I bought it and started working on it in 1998. For a
>> couple of years things werent happening. Then I figured it out. I was
>> spending too much time reading emails and not enought time working on
>> the airplane. I bet if there was no internet, there would be a lot of
>> RV's flying.
>> If you go to the website above "pilot information" and look at the
>> Pitt's in the picture above the airport , that is the engine that is in
>> this RV. Yep, now I have two airplanes and only one engine.
>>
>> Is anyone interested in a flyin here next year? This airport has room to
>> tie down a bunch of RV's, Tailwinds, Mustang II's and T-18's, in the
>> grass.(yes, Pitt's and Eagles too) There is room to camp and motels and
>> restaurants are all real close by. Look at Jim Wright's map We have a
>> courtesy car plus pilots who will take peoeple where they need to go.
>> We might even be able to mooch some fuel from the airport authority for
>> homebuilts and small sport-planes, especially if anyone wanted to give
>> Young Eagle rides. At least we will work out a discounted fuel price if
>> there is any interest in this...
>>
>> One of the local RV owners said he would kick in a keg of beer ( didn't
>> you Keith Hedrick) and we can get a hillbilly to cook a whole hog.
>> This would all be free. Another RV guy will play the banjo and drag
>> down a bunch of blue grass jammers ( won't you Mark Phillips from
>> Williamsville?)
>> There are two Mark Phillips who get on the list...
>>
>> Just a thought, but this woiuld be a good cooling down week-end trip for
>> next Summer or Fall.. We could start it on a Friday afternoon and finish
>> up on Sunday....
>>
>> Phil in Litchfield, IL
>>
>> do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for Brad Heinitz, strake builder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> This fella was making the strakes for the 8.
>
> He charges $100 for the pair. I paid him mid November and haven not seen
> them yet.
>
> Im pretty sure he is in the Arlington Wa area. Back of check says The
> Aerodyne Shop.
>
> Can someone please put me in touch with him?
>
> Thanks
>
>
> Michael Stewart
>
> S8 Canopy
>
> Do not archive
Mike,
Check the bottom of this page...
http://www.rv-8.com/MikeRobbins.htm#Flying
Mike Robbin's e-mail is at the top of the page, he can probably help you.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | FAB mounting plate cracks. Replacement? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Don't forget a support strap between the front of the air box and the engine. Van's
instruction do not show this. The brace attaches at the forward FAB plate
to box bolt, up to an engine sump bolt. The theory is that it will keep the airbox
from flexing and possibly cracking.
I would not recommend any other material. Both materials you suggest are stiff.
You could just move the problem somewhere else. I would not recommend other materials
without testing.
Take extra care to de-burr all holes edges well and make sure the seal between
the air box and cowl is not too stiff or tight. Consider making a replacement
plate with a higher gage aluminum.
Cheers G, RV-4, RV-7 (wings)
BRIAN WROTE:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> I'm in the middle of my fifth annual on my RV8 and have found
> two cracks in the alu FAB box plate..........
> What do ya'll think about using a sheet of phenolic instead?
> I could also layup a sheet of carbon with West Systems and
> machine it.
> Any downsides to this?
---------------------------------
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Looking for Brad Heinitz, strake builder |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Hi Michael,
Here is the phone number I have for Brad. I do not know if it is still
current...
360 403 8737
Dave
RV-6, near Seattle
Message 11
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| Subject: | FIRE SUPPRESSION SYSTEMS: RV-List Digest: 22 Msgs - 12/06/04 |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4WGH@aol.com
It seems to me that if it works for race drivers at 200 + MPH, it can't hurt
for us.
Saw a father and son die in a fire (T-18 stalled a wing turning final) at
OSHKOSH several years ago. Might have saved them, might not. They were alive
until the fire started.
Wally Hunt
Rockford, IL
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Rv-7 Removable Floors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ralph E. Capen" <recapen@earthlink.net>
I've got photos of them in my 6A.....at home...zap me direct if you want 'em and
I'll dig 'em up when I get home.........
-----Original Message-----
From: Piavis <piavis@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rv-7 Removable Floors
--> RV-List message posted by: "Piavis" <piavis@pacbell.net>
Does anyone have decent photos of removable baggage floors? I'm at that
point where it would be nice to drill for plate nuts on the baggage ribs but
I'm having some problems finding a couple pictures to follow, especially
around the F680 flap bearing block and the backrest brace.
Thanks,
Jim
-7 Fuse
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Bending firewall...how much? When? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Question 1: How much to bend the firewall
If I recall, it was like 6 degrees. The plans do show it, I believe. If
not, you can take a compass to the drawing for a ballpark figure.
> Question 2: How and when does one actually do it?
I cut some wood to the width of the firewall, clamped it on both sides of
the firewall, and bent the top of the firewall forward. Decent clean bend
that way. I did it while the firewall was still a separate entity. Easier
that way, I think. I'm sure there are 9 ways to Sunday to do it more easily
than that, but you asked for opinions.
In my opinion, don't worry if you end up with 5.4 degrees or 6.8 degrees.
Like everything else, with these pre-punched kits, when you cleco it
together it's gonna be perfect.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: "POP" rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 04:58 AM 1/3/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher"
><dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
>
>Is there an easy way to differentiate "structural" and "non-structural"
>pop rivets?
On Van's web page, there is a "Construction FAQs" page. On that
page, there is a link to a "Materials" pdf. This lists a lot of very
important stuff that is not in the standard manual, including a picture
identification of all the different types of "pop" rivets.
Here is the link:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/materials.pdf
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Bending firewall...how much? When? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Andrew,
The stainless steel firewall is un-tempered and quite flexible. You can use
clamps and some hardwood or a piece of metal to fashion an in-place break of
sorts to bend it forward with a clearly defined angle.
Or you can clamp a piece of material with welders Vise-Grips at the point
where it should be bent and lean it forward uniformly with hand pressure
until it stands on it's own at the approximate appropriate angle. The actual
final angle will be determined by the forward flanges of the upper forward
cockpit structural framework flanges and the leading edge of the top skin .
The angle will end up being 'about' the 5.6 degrees that you mention.
I bent my upper firewall to fit after assembling the forward upper cockpit
structure in place incuding the panel as a separate riveted assembly. I kept
the assembly as a clekoed removable segment until it absolutely had to be
riveted in place. The skin will get riveted on as soon as I get a few
electrical systems refinements (after thoughts) done.
I chose the softer hand formed angle look for easier firewall cleaning.
That's my story and I'm stick'in to it! My inherent tendency toward laziness
had nothing at all to do with it! {[:-)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Andrew Douglas" <adouglas@optonline.net>
Subject: RV-List: Bending firewall...how much? When?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
>
> I'm helping out on a 7A, and we're assembling the firewall right now.
>
> Question 1: How much to bend the firewall
>
> Several drawings clearly show the upper part of the firewall being bent
> forward, but we can't find any reference to actually doing this in the
> instructions or on the drawings: Neither the amount of the bend nor when
> and
> how to do it.
>
> It *looks* like the bent portion should be at right angles to the F-718
> upper longeron, but we're not sure of this...it just looks that way on the
> drawings.
>
> On Dwg. 18, the bend in the forward portion of this longeron is called out
> at 5.6 degrees from horizontal...which suggests that the bend in the
> firewall should also be 5.6 degrees from flat.
>
> Assuming that the bend is at right angles to the longeron in the first
> place.
>
> Does anyone have a definitive answer on this?
>
> I suppose we could just wait until the forward fuselage is all clecoed
> together, then fit the upper front skin and see how much we need to bend
> it
> to match the holes in the skin, but....
>
> Question 2: How and when does one actually do it?
>
> I'm thinking we need to fabricate a bending brake to make that bend
> cleanly.
> Given that the bend is right where the upper stiffener (F-601L) lies,
> won't
> this stiffener get in the way? This suggests that we should bend the
> firewall before assembling it.
>
> Can anyone give guidance on how you did it?
>
> Thanks....
>
> Andrew Douglas
> (FNG)
>
> PS: I found one reference in the archives to this, in which somebody wrote
> that he just "deflected the firewall to match the ribs," but it seems to
> me
> that this would place unnecessary stress on the firewall.
>
>
>
Message 16
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<rv-3@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Baffle-sourced fresh air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Listers,
Due to the difficulty of finding a good path to bring cockpit fresh air in
on an RV-3 I am considering taking a 2" scat tub off the upper back of the
baffle, running it through the upper firewall, then down to an aluminum vent
in my center console. I believe I have seen RVs with this set-up before but
can't remember who or where.
Has anyone used this method?
Noticed any warming of the air? (I wouldn't think so due to the velocity,
but it's a consideration).
Randy Lervold
RV3 #11375, fuselage
www.rv-3.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Baffle-sourced fresh air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Randy,
Are you using the wing mounted tanks or the fuselage tank. If you are using
the wing tanks I would mount a fresh air vent like the -8. I am not
thrilled about the idea of taking a fresh air vent from inside the engine
compartment. During flight where you talk about I think would be fine but
it is the in between flight time that I would be worried about. The
possibility that any engine fumes could get into the cabin area between
flights and linger there is a distinct possibility. If that is the only
place so be it but I think I would try to find a different spot.
Mike Robertson
>From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>, <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>,
><rv-3@yahoogroups.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Baffle-sourced fresh air
>Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2005 11:09:31 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>Due to the difficulty of finding a good path to bring cockpit fresh air in
>on an RV-3 I am considering taking a 2" scat tub off the upper back of the
>baffle, running it through the upper firewall, then down to an aluminum
>vent
>in my center console. I believe I have seen RVs with this set-up before but
>can't remember who or where.
>
>Has anyone used this method?
>
>Noticed any warming of the air? (I wouldn't think so due to the velocity,
>but it's a consideration).
>
>Randy Lervold
>RV3 #11375, fuselage
>www.rv-3.com
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Baffle-sourced fresh air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> Are you using the wing mounted tanks or the fuselage tank. If you are
using
> the wing tanks I would mount a fresh air vent like the -8. I am not
> thrilled about the idea of taking a fresh air vent from inside the engine
> compartment. During flight where you talk about I think would be fine but
> it is the in between flight time that I would be worried about. The
> possibility that any engine fumes could get into the cabin area between
> flights and linger there is a distinct possibility. If that is the only
> place so be it but I think I would try to find a different spot.
>
> Mike Robertson
Hi Mike,
Wing tanks. Being familiar with the RV-8 I considered both the left fuselage
side inlet as well as the right wing bottom inlet. Because the -3 is so
tight neither will work. The rudder pedals and cables get in the way of the
fuselage side, not to mention the pilot's legs & feet. Regarding the wing
inlet, there's no space under the seat to bring the tube from the right wing
bottom in through the side of the fuselage. Even if you could get into the
fuselage ala the -8 there would still be no way to get it forward of the
spar to a vent without penetrating the spar carrythrough with at least a 2"
hole, which I'm pretty sure Van's would say is a no-no.
Most RV builders would be surprised to see how small an RV-3 actually is.
I'm also struggling with wire routing for some of the same reasons. I think
I have a solution for the wiring though. You're right about the fumes
possibly getting in. On the other hand if one had a fuel leak you'd
certainly know faster! :-)
Randy
Message 19
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| Subject: | Iridite powder available in Tennessee |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
I'm planning to order some Iridite powder. The minimum quantity I can
buy is 10 pounds, so I will have some available to share. I figure the
cost will be about $30 per pound, delivered to Franklin. A pound makes
10 gallons of liquid, so this would be about $3 per gallon, as opposed to
$16 or $17 per gallon plus shipping from ACS (Hazardous product shipping
required - they say shipping may exceed the cost of the material, but
don't give the exact amount).
If there is enough interest in advance, I will order extra quantities.
ACS says a gallon will cover 100 sq. ft, so I figure about 5 pounds will
be enough to do the entire interior of the plane, and 7 pounds would do
the exterior as well.
Jim Hasper - RV-7 just starting empennage (giving new meaning to the term
slow-build)
Franklin, TN
Message 20
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| Subject: | Powder coating, spiral wrap and a pre-oiler |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Paule" <dpaule@frii.com>
Hi, Everyone,
I don't have an RV - but I do have a Cessna 180, and about ten years ago I
did a major FWF rebuild on Big Hammer. There are a few points relating to
that which may prove of interest to you.
1. I used some nylon spiral-wrap to protect a number of wires in the engine
bay. The spiral-wrap closest to the exhaust manifold melted around the
wires. It's safe, and still provides excellent protection, but can't be
removed and it's unsightly. It has not melted more - that is, the initial
meltdown seems to have been all that's happened. There is a high-temperature
version available from www.mcmaster.com, which should be adequate. Look on
page 702 on their on-line catalog for the PTFE version, in clear and black,
various sizes.
2. I took the opportunity to remove the main landing gear legs and have them
checked for cracks. Then I had them powder-coated, along with the baffles
and the engine mount and the spinner bulkhead. The powder coating was a
custom job, done very carefully and with all the appropriate process steps
included. Here are the results, ten years later:
The baffles are holding up perfectly. That surprised me, since I thought
that vibration or chafe would do them in.
The spinner bulkhead was lost in a stupid mishap during the first month of
operation. It would embarrass me to describe it, so I won't. But the
non-flight incident had nothing to do with the powder coating, which
survived.
The engine mount is intact with no cracks in the paint anywhere, in spite of
numerous things clamped or screwed to the mount. However, the custom color
is discolored in some areas that are close to the exhaust, in spite of the
heat shields. I don't know if that would have happened if the exhaust system
had been wrapped in insulation, but it is bare.
The landing gear legs are generally still okay. There's a dimple in the legs
where a brake line bracket snaps on, and I foolishly used that bracket for
about four years. The paint cracked there, and on my last preflight I
noticed a trace of corrosion there. There are a number of small chips in the
pain where the legs had been struck by rocks tossed up from the prop (I
don't always use pavement, and for that matter, don't always use airports.)
There is no corrosion on any of those. In retrospect, I should have removed
the brake line clip permanently when I painted the legs, and added some sort
of gravel barrier, like a clear tape or something (maybe a fiberglass
fairing....) to the leading edge.
3. I installed an engine pre-oiler. This one, by www.oilamatic.com, has
proved to be an excellent device, requiring no maintenance and working quite
reliably. I use it on start-up and on shut-down, even though it's not
certified for operation during engine operation. I've noticed that if I
don't use it on shut-down, that the oil pressure fades off before the prop
stops. If I use it, the prop hits the final compression stroke and bounces
back before stopping. I can feel the difference if I pressurize the system
in the hangar and move the prop. Also, I can use it after an oil and filter
change to pressurize the system before starting the engine, both for a leak
check and to avoid running the motor while the new filter is filling. This
device is a must-have, in my opinion.
I have no connection with either McMaster-Carr or Oilamatic, outside of
being a happy customer.
I'm sending this to the RV-8 list and the more general RV list, so if you're
on both and get two copies, that's why. My apologies.
Dave Paule
Cessna 180 "Big Hammer"
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: "POP" rivets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
Sorry, What I wanted to know is...
What are the application guidlines for pop rivets?
In other words, for a given application, which pop rivet should you use?
There is obviously more to it than grip length and diameter since there are
so many of the little devils.
Dave
> [Original Message]
> From: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 1/3/2005 12:42:33 PM
> Subject: Re: RV-List: "POP" rivets
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
>
> At 04:58 AM 1/3/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher"
> ><dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
> >
> >Is there an easy way to differentiate "structural" and "non-structural"
> >pop rivets?
>
> On Van's web page, there is a "Construction FAQs" page. On that
> page, there is a link to a "Materials" pdf. This lists a lot of very
> important stuff that is not in the standard manual, including a picture
> identification of all the different types of "pop" rivets.
>
> Here is the link:
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/materials.pdf
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Strakes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
But, most aircraft have an airspeed error that goes very strange as
you approach the stall. So a change of five knots IAS is probably
quite a bit less when expressed in CAS. I once flew an aircraft that
had such a strange airspeed error near the stall that as you
approached the stall the IAS would go to a minimum, and then start
increasing again before the aircraft stalled. Of course the flight
test airspeed system, with a pitot probe on a nose boom, and a
trailing cone static system, showed that the CAS was decreasing the
whole time, as you would expect. So don't put too much weight on
changes in indicated stall speed. I believe that those strakes could
help reduce the stall speed, but it won't likely be as much as 5 kt
CAS.
Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
>Hi Stu,
>
>Thanks for the info. I think I'll do it like you did and fly first to
>see how it feels, and then add them later. Five knots is too much to
>just leave on the table!
>
>Best regards, and happy new year,
>
>Mickey
>
>
>> That would be me. I did install strakes on my RV-8. I flew it
>>first without them
>> and documented my airspeeds and that I did indeed have significant
>>'tail shake'
>> prior to the stall. It is caused by the dirty air in a near stall
>>coming around
>> the fuselage/landing gear just under the leading edge, and with no
>>energy the wing
>> does not streamline the air, so it hits the horzontal Stab and
>>shakes it about an
>> inch at the tip. I installed some Cessna 414 engine nacelle
>>strakes (I bought at
>> Robertson in Arlington WA) on the fuselage in front of and above
>>the leading edge.
>> Next flight there was NO tail shake and NO prestall buffet. In
>>documenting changes
>> after installation, I saw no top end penalty and a 5 knot
>>reduction in stall speed.
>> Worked for me.
>>
>> This mod is not for everyone in that the prestall buffet is gone.
>>If one needs
>> that buffet to let them know he are close to stall, he should not
>>install them.
> >
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Lycoming Shaking |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
This thread of baffling and oil cooler mounting has gotten my interest
peaked. What do people observe if they have enclosed plenums? All the ones
I've seen in picture seems to have tops screwed onto the side baffles via
angles, unless they used Sam Jame's mode or Jon Johanson's and even those I
think are screwed in place? So do these plenums self distruct from all the
movement? Anyone used hinges to fasten the top to the sides as some have
suggested for ease of removal? Inquiring minds would like to know, before I
complete my plenum.
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A
Time: 07:17:02 PM PST US
From: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Oil Cooler Flange Failure
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Scott,
According to the SACRAMENTO SKYRANCH ENGINEERING MANUAL, the Lycoming
engines distort almost 1/4" while running. 3/16" of this takes place in the
crankcases. The other 1/16" is due to expansion of each cylinder head as it
is stressed by the compression stroke of the engine. I think that it is for
this reason that the vertical baffles are not one solid piece.
Charlie Kuss
Message 24
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| Subject: | WTB Sensinich Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Would Jerry from SC who called Todd about the prop, call him again, he lost
your number this morning.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Here is the request I posted.
The guy who runs the local FBO bought a RV-6 that has a cut down metal prop
on it, ( ~70.5") and he would like to buy a Sensinich Metal prop. This
airplane has a 150 hp but he might buy something that needed repitched if it
was wrong.
Call 641-430-9898 and tell him I told you to call.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
MCW
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Baffle-sourced fresh air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "H.Ivan Haecker" <baremetl@gvtc.com>
Randy,
I and others have used this method. The main problem (besides any safety
factors including fire, fumes ,etc) was slowing down to pattern speeds on a
hot day. The inrush of hot air was very noticable. The solution that I used
was to extend the tube forward to the left front engine cooling air opening
in the cowling. Big improvement in air temps especialy at slower speeds.
BTY, in cruise flight, I measure about 3 degrees F warmer than the air that
comes through the vent for the back seater (which is from the bottom of the
right wing). I would think that this is due to the air being warmed as
passes over the crankcase and on to the firewall. I've been meaning to put a
stainless steel airbox on the firewall that can be closed via a cable, but
it just hasn't happened yet. It would seem safer. I can send pictures if
needed.
Ivan Haecker -4 1123hrs. S. Cen. TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
<rv-3@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Baffle-sourced fresh air
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
> Listers,
>
> Due to the difficulty of finding a good path to bring cockpit fresh air in
> on an RV-3 I am considering taking a 2" scat tub off the upper back of the
> baffle, running it through the upper firewall, then down to an aluminum
vent
> in my center console. I believe I have seen RVs with this set-up before
but
> can't remember who or where.
>
> Has anyone used this method?
>
> Noticed any warming of the air? (I wouldn't think so due to the velocity,
> but it's a consideration).
>
> Randy Lervold
> RV3 #11375, fuselage
> www.rv-3.com
>
>
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
At 11:43 PM 12/31/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
>
>D, and others,
>
>I would add one more comment to Dan's comment about recharging a battery
>with an alternator. It isn't that great for the battery either. Lead acid's
>prefer slow charging, and alternator's don't really know how to do this if
>the battery has been fully discharged.
Flooded lead acid batteries prefer slow charging. The opposite is
true (within limits) for the modern Absorbed Glass Mat (AGM) sealed
lead-acid (SLA) batteries that we all use in our airplanes.
AGM batteries have no problem whatsoever with high amperage
charging, as long as you don't get them hot enough to melt the plastic
case. :-) You can charge an AGM at close to it's CCA rating as long as you
limit the voltage to under 15 volts (and watch the temperature if you do
more than one cycle.)
>So, if you leave the master on over night then stay on the ground and
>recharge the battery with a charger, unless of course you absolutely must go
>flying... even then it is good to slow charge (ie 5 amps max) the battery
>for half an hour rather then nail it with max alternator output from the get
>go.
Not so with AGM type batteries.
I learned "just a little bit" about batteries while working on my
motorcycle:
http://www.KillaCycle.com
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Does anyone have information on a partially (mostly?) completed RV6-A on an
airpark near Ocala FL? My understanding is that the builder passed away.
Someone not on the list is interested and asked me to inquire.
Thanks,
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 563 hours
Maple Grove, MN
<http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/>
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
<http://www.home.earthlink.net/>
Message 28
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|
<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Wheel/pant clearance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
The topic of the nose over is timely. I am currently setting up the wheel pants
on my 7 and could not find (or missed it) a recommended clearance value between
the tire and wheel pants. Does anyone have such a measurement? My neighbors
8 is at least an inch all the way around.
Thanks in advance,
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Alex, no information on that one. But, I do know of a RV-6 that is
completed with the exception of the FWF portion that is for sale. I do not
know any of the details but can give you the e mail of a person that does -
if interested. It is located in the vicinity of Charlotte, NC
Ed Anderson
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Ocala
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
<alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> Does anyone have information on a partially (mostly?) completed RV6-A on
an
> airpark near Ocala FL? My understanding is that the builder passed away.
> Someone not on the list is interested and asked me to inquire.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 563 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> <http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
> <http://www.home.earthlink.net/>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Lycoming Shaking |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Marty,
My question too. I am currently fitting the one-piece carbon fiber plenum
from Jon Johanson. It's very nicely made, and uses the front lower baffles
and rear bulkhead baffle from Van's kit, but it's solid between the
cylinders on each side. I am hoping that there is enough flexibility to
handle any movement between the cylinders. I am currently figuring out how
to reinforce the rear baffle for the oil cooler mounting and still be able
to remove the plenum without removing the oil cooler. I think I can make it
work ok, but I am might still try to mount the cooler to the engine mount
frame, or look at Eustace's method of putting it under the front ramp.
I heard that they guy rebuilding the ground-looped RV-8 that had the Sam
James cowl and plenum found some cracks in the plenum. This is third hand
info, so please don't take my word for it. Hopefully the carbon fiber in my
plenum will prevent any cracking. Time will tell.
Terry
--> RV-List message posted by: "Emrath" <emrath@comcast.net>
This thread of baffling and oil cooler mounting has gotten my interest
peaked. What do people observe if they have enclosed plenums? All the ones
I've seen in picture seems to have tops screwed onto the side baffles via
angles, unless they used Sam Jame's mode or Jon Johanson's and even those I
think are screwed in place? So do these plenums self distruct from all the
movement? Anyone used hinges to fasten the top to the sides as some have
suggested for ease of removal? Inquiring minds would like to know, before I
complete my plenum.
Marty in Brentwood TN, RV-6A
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: first new RV flight in 2005 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
Hey Phil, congratulations on the maiden flight. Sorry I missed it.
Mark Phillips
RV-6 Banjer picker
Williamsville, Illinois
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: first new RV flight in 2005
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
> <sisson@consolidated.net>
>
> Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>>
>>In a message dated 01/02/2005 5:47:48 PM Central Standard Time,
>>sisson@consolidated.net writes:
>>There are two Mark Phillips who get on the list...
>>
>>
>>hhhhmmmmmmmm................. sounds like a party- maybe I could drag the
>>axe
>>out of the basement and toss it in the back of the RV...
>>
>>Columbia TN Mark Phillips -6A, 144 hours & maybe not nekkid much longer?
>>do
>>not archive
>>
>>
>>
> Ten four on two Mark Phillips..... Williamsville Mark is building 6
> Taildragger and getting close . If he would stay away from the Banjo, he
> would get it finished.......
>
> My 6 has 2.1 hours on it now and 1.1 is ground time. It is going to be
> Nekkid until at least late Springtime.....
>
> Phil
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Baffle-sourced fresh air |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>Due to the difficulty of finding a good path to bring cockpit fresh air
in
>on an RV-3 I am considering taking a 2" scat tub off the upper back of
the
>baffle, running it through the upper firewall, then down to an aluminum
>vent in my center console.
My RV-4 main cockpit vents come off a two inch flange in the upper
center of the engine cowl. It enters via scat tubing to a stainless
steel firewall fitting with a cut-off butterfly plate, controlled from
the cockpit. The fitting then splits into two two inch scats (so it is
"Y" shaped)that feed into two one inch eyeball vents on lower outer
sides of the panel, each are also, of course, closable. They are almost
never closed, winter or summer as I like the fresh air they provide. The
temp may be a few degrees above ambient temperature; I have often
thought of measuring exactly how much higher, but when I am thinking
about it, I have nothing to measure it with. I have NEVER smelled
anything from the engine compartment, including at startup; i.e., fumes
from a sitting engine. This is a tail dragger as the -3 would be; maybe
it would be different in a nose dragger.
This setup provides PLENTY of air blasting into the cockpit. I have a
canopy partially open capability so ground ventilation is not a problem.
I have also not noticed a sudden blast of hot air in the pattern or with
other reductions of power. The air is still of fast enough velocity it
isn't that much warmer. I have an under the wing vent for the back seat
and that will blow your wig off. I angle it towards the front seat when
no one is back there.
I have thought of putting a fiberglass channel from the cowl intakes to
the area of the vent opening on the baffling but, again, that involves
down time and I would rather fly. And the present set up works just
fine.
Pictures? My conditional inspection is February and it would have to
wait for that.
Hope this helps.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Message 33
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| Subject: | release the hounds |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Do any of you guys know how to reach Brian Baumgarner, formerly of Neosho MO ?
I've had it with this guy.....he has apparently split to Florida somewhere leaving
behind an $820.00 fuel tank bill which is years past due (literally). He
called me in a desperate hurry for a new tank because he had a damaged one on
an airplane he had sold. I went out of pocket for parts/labor and shipping costs
to help him....only to be left hanging. I have got to tell you, I never cease
to be baffled when someone takes advantage of my trust. Thankfully it rarely
happens in this community, and I still routinely ship out finished product before
billing. Airplane folks as a rule are well above average when it comes to
honesty. Any help would be appreciated.......As a matter of fact, I have a new
airspeed indicator (or donation for same amount to charity in your name) for
whichever person recovers this lost revenue. I know this sounds harsh, but you
have to understand I have been polite in many phone calls and multiple letters
and have received only empty promises of payment. To me this is a significant
amount of money and it would not be fair to myself or my family to just let
it go.
Regards.....
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Wheel/pant clearance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
There should be a minimum of 1" distance from the top of the tire to the
wheel pant as it sits on the tire. This is in the builder's book or plans
somewhere. The spread around the tire should be about 5.8" (the width of
your finger.) The top distance has been a problem for some who fly off of
grass strips. You might consider making that 1 1/4" to help that. As you
raise it, it will slightly increase your wind drag. Might try the archives
for previous discussions on this.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Wheel/pant clearance
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
> The topic of the nose over is timely. I am currently setting up the wheel
pants on my 7 and could not find (or missed it) a recommended clearance
value between the tire and wheel pants. Does anyone have such a measurement?
My neighbors 8 is at least an inch all the way around.
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Darwin N. Barrie
> Chandler AZ
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Rv-7 Removable Floors |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <kathleen@rv7.us>
Just openings, not removable floors...
http://rv7.us/daily041217%20f.htm
Kathleen Evans
www.rv7.us
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Piavis
Subject: RV-List: Rv-7 Removable Floors
--> RV-List message posted by: "Piavis" <piavis@pacbell.net>
Does anyone have decent photos of removable baggage floors? I'm at that
point where it would be nice to drill for plate nuts on the baggage ribs but
I'm having some problems finding a couple pictures to follow, especially
around the F680 flap bearing block and the backrest brace.
Thanks,
Jim
-7 Fuse
Message 36
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| Subject: | release the hounds |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Check the FAA aircraft registry web site for his address. I have found
people that way before.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Evan and Megan
Johnson
Subject: RV-List: release the hounds
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
<evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Do any of you guys know how to reach Brian Baumgarner, formerly of Neosho MO
? I've had it with this guy.....he has apparently split to Florida somewhere
leaving behind an $820.00 fuel tank bill which is years past due
(literally). He called me in a desperate hurry for a new tank because he had
a damaged one on an airplane he had sold. I went out of pocket for
parts/labor and shipping costs to help him....only to be left hanging. I
have got to tell you, I never cease to be baffled when someone takes
advantage of my trust. Thankfully it rarely happens in this community, and I
still routinely ship out finished product before billing. Airplane folks as
a rule are well above average when it comes to honesty. Any help would be
appreciated.......As a matter of fact, I have a new airspeed indicator (or
donation for same amount to charity in your name) for whichever person
recovers this lost revenue. I know this sounds harsh, but you have to
understand I have been polite in many pho!
ne calls and multiple letters and have received only empty promises of
payment. To me this is a significant amount of money and it would not be
fair to myself or my family to just let it go.
Regards.....
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV-8 Strakes |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
The strakes might also be messing with the static ports at a high angle
of attack which could help give an inaccurate airspeed reading.
Dave B.
Kevin Horton wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>But, most aircraft have an airspeed error that goes very strange as
>you approach the stall. So a change of five knots IAS is probably
>quite a bit less when expressed in CAS. I once flew an aircraft that
>had such a strange airspeed error near the stall that as you
>approached the stall the IAS would go to a minimum, and then start
>increasing again before the aircraft stalled. Of course the flight
>test airspeed system, with a pitot probe on a nose boom, and a
>trailing cone static system, showed that the CAS was decreasing the
>whole time, as you would expect. So don't put too much weight on
>changes in indicated stall speed. I believe that those strakes could
>help reduce the stall speed, but it won't likely be as much as 5 kt
>CAS.
>
>Kevin Horton
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>
>>Hi Stu,
>>
>>Thanks for the info. I think I'll do it like you did and fly first to
>>see how it feels, and then add them later. Five knots is too much to
>>just leave on the table!
>>
>>Best regards, and happy new year,
>>
>>Mickey
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>> That would be me. I did install strakes on my RV-8. I flew it
>>>first without them
>>> and documented my airspeeds and that I did indeed have significant
>>>'tail shake'
>>> prior to the stall. It is caused by the dirty air in a near stall
>>>coming around
>>> the fuselage/landing gear just under the leading edge, and with no
>>>energy the wing
>>> does not streamline the air, so it hits the horzontal Stab and
>>>shakes it about an
>>> inch at the tip. I installed some Cessna 414 engine nacelle
>>>strakes (I bought at
>>> Robertson in Arlington WA) on the fuselage in front of and above
>>>the leading edge.
>>> Next flight there was NO tail shake and NO prestall buffet. In
>>>documenting changes
>>> after installation, I saw no top end penalty and a 5 knot
>>>reduction in stall speed.
>>> Worked for me.
>>>
>>> This mod is not for everyone in that the prestall buffet is gone.
>>>If one needs
>>> that buffet to let them know he are close to stall, he should not
>>>install them.
>>>
>>>
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | release the hounds |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
>Do any of you guys know how to reach Brian Baumgarner, formerly of Neosho
>MO ? I've had it with this guy.....he has apparently split to Florida
>somewhere leaving behind an $820.00 fuel tank bill which is years past due
>(literally). He called me in a desperate hurry for a new tank because he
>had a damaged one on an airplane he had sold. I went out of pocket for
>parts/labor and shipping costs to help him....only to be left hanging. I
>have got to tell you, I never cease to be baffled when someone takes
>advantage of my trust. Thankfully it rarely happens in this community, and
>I still routinely ship out finished product before billing. Airplane folks
>as a rule are well above average when it comes to honesty. Any help would
>be appreciated.......As a matter of fact, I have a new airspeed indicator
>(or donation for same amount to charity in your name) for whichever person
>recovers this lost revenue. I know this sounds harsh, but you have to
>understand I have been polite in many pho!
>ne calls and multiple letters and have received only empty promises of
>payment. To me this is a significant amount of money and it would not be
>fair to myself or my family to just let it go.
>
>
>Regards.....
>
>
>Evan Johnson
>www.evansaviationproducts.com
>(530)247-0375
>(530)351-1776 cell
In trying to recover the good name I share (Brian), I will keep this issue
stored in my noggin if'n I ever come across this varmint. It's really bad
form to stiff someone for services rendered. Kharma gonna bite him in the
butt for sure if he doesn't make it right.
My best wishes that this is resolved for you promptly.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 39
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| Subject: | Wheel/pant clearance |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I'm still struggling with my wheel pants too. To get the full 1" or more of
clearance between the top of the tire and the fairing, I'm going to have to
cut the inboard area near the caliper to get some more clearance. With
about 3/4" clearance above the tire things look real good, until I lower the
tail -- then the clearance aft of the tire goes to about 5/8". Too little,
even on a good landing day.
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2004/11/wheel_pants.html
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: LarryRobertHelming [mailto:lhelming@sigecom.net]
> Sent: Monday, January 03, 2005 10:31 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Wheel/pant clearance
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming"
> --> <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> There should be a minimum of 1" distance from the top of the
> tire to the wheel pant as it sits on the tire. This is in
> the builder's book or plans somewhere. The spread around the
> tire should be about 5.8" (the width of your finger.) The
> top distance has been a problem for some who fly off of grass
> strips. You might consider making that 1 1/4" to help that.
> As you raise it, it will slightly increase your wind drag.
> Might try the archives for previous discussions on this.
>
> Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
>
> Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com>;
> <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Wheel/pant clearance
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
> >
> > The topic of the nose over is timely. I am currently
> setting up the wheel
> pants on my 7 and could not find (or missed it) a recommended
> clearance
> value between the tire and wheel pants. Does anyone have such
> a measurement?
> My neighbors 8 is at least an inch all the way around.
> >
> > Thanks in advance,
> >
> > Darwin N. Barrie
> > Chandler AZ
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: first new RV flight in 2005 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Mark/Micki Phillips wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
>Hey Phil, congratulations on the maiden flight. Sorry I missed it.
>
>Mark Phillips
>RV-6 Banjer picker
>Williamsville, Illinois
>
>
It was a very good hour in the air.... PS
Why Airplanes Are Better than Women
An airplane will kill you quick . . . a woman takes her time.
Airplanes like to do it inverted.
Airplanes can be turned on by a flick of a switch.
An airplane does not get mad if you 'touch and go.'
An airplane does not object to a preflight inspection.
Airplanes come with manuals.
Airplanes have strict weight and balance limits.
Airplanes don't care about how many other airplanes you have flown.
When flying, you and your airplane both arrive at the same time.
Airplanes don't mind if you look at other airplanes, or if you buy
airplane magazines.
It's always OK to use tie downs on your airplane
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