Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:59 AM - Re: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux (j1j2h3@juno.com)
2. 12:59 AM - Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) (j1j2h3@juno.com)
3. 04:52 AM - Re: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) (linn walters)
4. 08:23 AM - Re: Shortening Exhaust Pipes (Chuck Jensen)
5. 08:40 AM - Wiring G207 Grip (Trainnut01@aol.com)
6. 09:47 AM - Re: Wiring G207 Grip (Sam Buchanan)
7. 09:50 AM - Re: Shortening Exhaust Pipes (Sam Buchanan)
8. 11:35 AM - OT: leather jacket restoration?? (Charlie England)
9. 11:46 AM - Re: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux (Tom Gummo)
10. 12:39 PM - Re: Wiring G207 Grip (Mickey Coggins)
11. 12:49 PM - Re: OT: leather jacket restoration?? (David Burton)
12. 12:59 PM - Simple Green, again. (David Burton)
13. 01:04 PM - Fatter hinge pins (sarg314)
14. 01:26 PM - Re: Simple Green, again. (John Spicer)
15. 01:31 PM - Simple Green (Chuck Jensen)
16. 01:58 PM - Re: Fatter hinge pins (David Burton)
17. 01:58 PM - Re: Fatter hinge pins (David Fenstermacher)
18. 02:57 PM - Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Ron Schreck)
19. 03:08 PM - Re: Fatter hinge pins (sarg314)
20. 03:23 PM - > Re: Fatter Hinge Pins (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
21. 03:29 PM - Elevator horns (David Figgins)
22. 03:48 PM - Re: Elevator horns (Jerry Springer)
23. 04:16 PM - Re: Simple Green, again. (Dan Krueger)
24. 05:04 PM - Re: RV7-List: Elevator horns (Dan Checkoway)
25. 05:33 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Scott Jackson)
26. 06:21 PM - Oil cooler fittings (Scott VanArtsdalen)
27. 06:26 PM - FL-801PP-R/L (BRUCE GRAY)
28. 07:12 PM - Re: Simple Green, again. (cgalley)
29. 07:41 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Todd Bartrim)
30. 07:48 PM - Re: Elevator horns (plaurence@the-beach.net)
31. 08:25 PM - Re: Shortening Exhaust Pipes (Dave Bristol)
32. 10:24 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Richard E. Tasker)
33. 11:33 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
Delaware is another possibility. They do not have any sales tax. Also
no corporate tax. One of the flying magazines did a survey a while ago
on the number of aircraft registered and the number of licensed pilots in
each state. Delaware came out with a whole lot more airplanes than
pilots.
Jim Hasper - RV-7
Giving new meaning to the term "slow build"
Franklin, TN
Do not archive
> Time: 09:23:59 AM PST US
> From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan"
> <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>
> Have you considered registering this plane in another state? Might
> help
> with liability too if registered to a Nevada Corp or other entity in
> another
> state.
>
> Tim
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
Your statements are correct, but you are missing a point. The pressure
above the cylinders will indeed be greater with a plenum than with a
baffled cowl. In both cases, the pressure measured at the cowl inlet
will be same. However, because the baffled cowl has a greater volume
than the plenum, the air will expand more after passing the cowl inlet.
This expansion will reduce the pressure.
There is another aspect of efficiency that no one has addressed yet in
this thread. Any reduction of the velocity of air moving over your plane
requires energy, and that reduces your speed. This is most intuitively
obvious when you think of a blunt shape versus a pointed one. Air at the
dynamic center of the blunt shape actually comes to a complete stop
before finding its way back into the slip stream.
This is also true of the air that moves through your cowling. With the
baffled cowl, the air velocity is reduced more than with a plenum, as I
explained above. Therefore, this reduces the speed of your plane.
Anything that you can do to help the air maintain its velocity will
increase your speed. This is why it is important to seal the plenum
tightly to the cowl inlet, so that air does not leak into the cowling
outside of the plenum. Of course, you probably should have some air
moving there to carry away heat that is given off by the engine parts
that are not inside the plenum.
Since the air in the plenum is heated by the engine, it will try to
expand. If you were able to maintain a constant cross section of the
plenum, the air velocity would actually increase. If you could then
direct this air toward the rear of the plane, it would generate some
additional thrust. I have not done any calculations to determine the
amount of thrust possible, but - hey - every little bit helps.
Jim Hasper - RV-7
Giving new meaning to the term "slow build" (partly because I waste time
doing silly things like getting involved in this)
Franklin, TN
Do not archive
> Time: 09:42:05 PM PST US
> From: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT)(& Long)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
> (snip)
> Seems to me the cooling depends mostly on the airflow created by
> the
> pressure differential above/below the cylinders. I can't see how
> reducing
> the volume above the cylinders with a box type plenum will change
> that
> pressure (anyone measured that).
>
> Standing by to be educated!
>
> George in Langley BC
> 6A flying
> 7a wings
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
j1j2h3@juno.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
>
>Your statements are correct, but you are missing a point. The pressure
>above the cylinders will indeed be greater with a plenum than with a
>baffled cowl. In both cases, the pressure measured at the cowl inlet
>will be same. However, because the baffled cowl has a greater volume
>than the plenum, the air will expand more after passing the cowl inlet.
>This expansion will reduce the pressure.
>
Maybe I should stay a night at Holiday Inn Express ..... I don't think
this is true. At least not in the long run. Once the plenum (or the
normal cowl-sealed baffles) has been pressurized, there is no expansion
difference between the two. The back pressure at the cowl inlet will be
the same, assuming perfectly sealed cowl baffles. If the resistance
were to change inside the plenum (which id doesn't), the speed of the
air entering would change. The benefits of a plenum are that the
cowl-sealed baffles are not a perfect seal by any stretch, so some
volume of air leaks around the baffles. This will lower the pressure
over the engine, and lower the amount of coolaing air going bast the
cylinders. It will also raise the pressure in the lower cowl.
>There is another aspect of efficiency that no one has addressed yet in
>this thread. Any reduction of the velocity of air moving over your plane
>requires energy, and that reduces your speed. This is most intuitively
>obvious when you think of a blunt shape versus a pointed one. Air at the
>dynamic center of the blunt shape actually comes to a complete stop
>before finding its way back into the slip stream.
>
Cooling drag is is real. The theoretical ideal would be to have the
exit volume equal the inlet volume, taking into account all the internal
drag. You can use a manometer to measure the pressure difference above
and below the engine.
>This is also true of the air that moves through your cowling. With the
>baffled cowl, the air velocity is reduced more than with a plenum, as I
>explained above.
>
No, only because of leaks
> Therefore, this reduces the speed of your plane.
>Anything that you can do to help the air maintain its velocity will
>increase your speed. This is why it is important to seal the plenum
>tightly to the cowl inlet, so that air does not leak into the cowling
>outside of the plenum. Of course, you probably should have some air
>moving there to carry away heat that is given off by the engine parts
>that are not inside the plenum.
>
I think there's enough turbulence to at least lower the heat downstream
of the engine. Some areas will be hotter than others though. Sealing
the plenum to the inlet prevents the bypass leak there .... and that
leak can be significant.
>Since the air in the plenum is heated by the engine, it will try to
>expand.
>
air is a poor conductor of heat .... but it's all we have. The air in
the plenum, I'm guessing doesn't gain enough heat to be significant
..... but when it gets around the cylinders the rise is significant.
> If you were able to maintain a constant cross section of the
>plenum, the air velocity would actually increase. If you could then
>direct this air toward the rear of the plane, it would generate some
>additional thrust. I have not done any calculations to determine the
>amount of thrust possible, but - hey - every little bit helps.
>
The expansion isn't great .... but in a theoretical world .... yes, it
would help, but you have to remember that the pressure on that air is
generated by the speed of the airplane and air flow resistance would eat
up any gain by expansion. Cooling drag is cooling drag. Nice idea
though. I didn't do the math either. Maybe if I stayed two nights ....
:-)
Linn ..... agrees, plenums are better for more efficient cooling.
do not archive
>
>Jim Hasper - RV-7
>Giving new meaning to the term "slow build" (partly because I waste time
>doing silly things like getting involved in this)
>Franklin, TN
>
>Do not archive
>
>
>
>>Time: 09:42:05 PM PST US
>>From: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT)(& Long)
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>>(snip)
>>Seems to me the cooling depends mostly on the airflow created by
>>the
>>pressure differential above/below the cylinders. I can't see how
>>reducing
>>the volume above the cylinders with a box type plenum will change
>>that
>>pressure (anyone measured that).
>>
>>Standing by to be educated!
>>
>>George in Langley BC
>>6A flying
>>7a wings
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Shortening Exhaust Pipes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Mike,
Pretty brave using Simple Green around an aluminum aircraft?
Chuck
Mike wrote
I wipe down the 'exhaust film' from my belly with simple green.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Wiring G207 Grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
All
I'm wiring the switches in my stick grip and do not have my EZ Pilot or my
Icom radio yet. What switch logic is required for the Autopilot Disconnect
switch and what switch logic is required for the frequency change on the radio?
I could do it later but I'm to lazy to take it apart again.
Thanks
Carroll Jernigan
RV7A Wiring
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring G207 Grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Trainnut01@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> All
> I'm wiring the switches in my stick grip and do not have my EZ Pilot or my
> Icom radio yet. What switch logic is required for the Autopilot Disconnect
> switch and what switch logic is required for the frequency change on the radio?
> I could do it later but I'm to lazy to take it apart again.
> Thanks
> Carroll Jernigan
> RV7A Wiring
EZ-Pilot User and Installation Manual is here:
http://www.trioavionics.com/Manual%20rev%201.9%20for%20PDF.pdf
Pages 35 and 36 will show wiring diagram. Autopilot disconnect is simply
a short to ground.
You will enjoy your EZ-Pilot. :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with EZ-Pilot)
http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/EZ_Pilot.htm
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Shortening Exhaust Pipes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Chuck Jensen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>
> Mike,
>
> Pretty brave using Simple Green around an aluminum aircraft?
>
> Chuck
>
>
> Mike wrote
>
> I wipe down the 'exhaust film' from my belly with simple green.
I use Simple Green, too. Does this mean I'm also pretty brave? :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 aluminum aircraft)
Message 8
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| Subject: | OT: leather jacket restoration?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
A friend has given me an old leather flying jacket. The leather is dry &
stiff. Is there a preferred method of restoring the leather? The last
time I worried about treating leather was oiling my baseball glove with
neatsfoot oil as a kid.
Thanks,
Charlie
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" <T.gummo@verizon.net>
Please go to Trade A Plane and look up the value of a Gummo Special. It
isn't there. What you name your plane makes a big difference.
They found my construction loan and assigned that value to my plane. Better
than some inflated value of someone trying to sell his plane in Trade A
Plane.
I have a friend who had a RV-6A. He got a crashed plane where he got most
of the instruments, the engine and the prop. He had less than 21,000 in the
whole thing. They kept trying to assess it somewhere between 45,000-65,000
(values found in Trade A Plane for a RV-6A). He would take the recites and
fight with them. They won't come down to the 21,000 but he normally got it
lowered some.
Tom Gummo
Apple Valley, CA
Gummo Special aka Harmon Rocket-II
do not archive
http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html
----- Original Message -----
From: <j1j2h3@juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux
> --> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
>
> Delaware is another possibility. They do not have any sales tax. Also
> no corporate tax. One of the flying magazines did a survey a while ago
> on the number of aircraft registered and the number of licensed pilots in
> each state. Delaware came out with a whole lot more airplanes than
> pilots.
>
> Jim Hasper - RV-7
> Giving new meaning to the term "slow build"
> Franklin, TN
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>> Time: 09:23:59 AM PST US
>> From: "Tim Bryan" <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan"
>> <flyrv6@bryantechnology.com>
>>
>> Have you considered registering this plane in another state? Might
>> help
>> with liability too if registered to a Nevada Corp or other entity in
>> another
>> state.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Wiring G207 Grip |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I've got the Icom IC-A200 radio installation instructions here:
http://www.rv8.ch/files/Icom%20IC-A200%20Installation%20Instructions.pdf
Frequency change is ground to activate. You can also have
a ground to activate "Memory Channel Switch".
Mickey
Trainnut01@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
>
> All
> I'm wiring the switches in my stick grip and do not have my EZ Pilot or my
> Icom radio yet. What switch logic is required for the Autopilot Disconnect
> switch and what switch logic is required for the frequency change on the radio?
> I could do it later but I'm to lazy to take it apart again.
> Thanks
> Carroll Jernigan
> RV7A Wiring
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: OT: leather jacket restoration?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Hi Charley,
There are companies that specialize in the repair and restoration of flight
jackets. Might be more expensive then what you had in mind... I donno.
Here is one place, they sell new too:
http://www.uswings.com/repair.asp
You can purchase an accurate duplicate of military flying jackets here as
well:
http://www.flightjacket.com/detail.aspx?ID=3
I've had good luck using "Hyde Food". Since Connolly leather company is no
longer in business it is getting harder to find, but I see it on the web.
There may be others that work, this is the only one I have ever used on my
Jaguars and I like it a lot. If there comes a time I can no longer get Hyde
Food I'll try this:
http://www.leatherique.com/
Good luck!
Dave, RV6
Message 12
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| Subject: | Simple Green, again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
There have been corrosion problems identified with using Simple Green on
aluminum. Whether it's a big problem I can't say. Since there are lots of
alternatives that are know to be safe why chance it? I've been using Task2
lately and like it. Haven't tried in on exhaust residue but it's worked
well on just about anything else and seems safe for just about all surfaces.
Not the easiest thing to fine though... I buy it from Aronson-Campbell
Industrial supply in Seattle.
I've always used Stoddard solvent on the plane's belly and greasy areas in
the past. Task is much more environmentally friendly though:
http://www.masterchemical.com/db-docs/press-releases/03-0212_TASK2_Biodeg.pdf
Message 13
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| Subject: | Fatter hinge pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I used some of the smaller aluminum piano hinge that came with my RV-6A
kit to mount some things under the instrument panel. (Not the big hinge
that is used to hold on the cowling.) It works OK, but the 0.062 hinge
pin is really a bit under-sized. It makes the piano hinge a bit loose.
I found that a 0.075 wire is a bit too big to fit in hinge eyes, so
something in the 0.070" range might do it.
I checked the piano wire at the hardware store and the coat hangers in
my closet, but no luck so far. Does any one know a source for a
slightly thicker hinge pin for these piano hinges?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Simple Green, again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Spicer" <spike@spikesplace.org>
I've heard of this problem before and am curious to read about it. Does
anyone know of any online documentation or information on the issues
with "simple green" and aluminum?
-- John
www.rivetbangers.com - A marriage of web and email. Building more than
RV's
www.spikesplace.org/cgi-php/serendipity - Build Log
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
There have been corrosion problems identified with using Simple Green on
aluminum. Whether it's a big problem I can't say. Since there are lots
of alternatives that are know to be safe why chance it? I've been using
Task2 lately and like it. Haven't tried in on exhaust residue but it's
worked well on just about anything else and seems safe for just about
all surfaces. Not the easiest thing to fine though... I buy it from
Aronson-Campbell Industrial supply in Seattle.
I've always used Stoddard solvent on the plane's belly and greasy areas
in the past. Task is much more environmentally friendly though:
http://www.masterchemical.com/db-docs/press-releases/03-0212_TASK2_Biode
g.pdf
---
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
The Airforce has prohibited use of Simple Green because of its highly
corrosive interaction with aluminum. As long as you don't get it in cracks
or around rivets (that aren't perfectly sealed by paint), you'll probably be
okay, but that's a tall order. In short, there is no dispute that Simple
Green is highly corrosive to aluminum when residual SG has an opportunity to
hideout in cracks and rivets.
Chuck
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Shortening Exhaust Pipes
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Chuck Jensen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>
> Mike,
>
> Pretty brave using Simple Green around an aluminum aircraft?
>
> Chuck
>
>
> Mike wrote
>
> I wipe down the 'exhaust film' from my belly with simple green.
I use Simple Green, too. Does this mean I'm also pretty brave? :-)
Sam Buchanan (RV-6 aluminum aircraft)
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Fatter hinge pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Hi Tom,
Check with Small Parts. They are a great resource. Their stuff is
expen$ive, but I'm willing to support a company who gathers up useful,
hard-to-find parts and makes it available in one place...
http://www.smallparts.com/
Good luck!
Dave
Message 17
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| Subject: | Fatter hinge pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" <dfenstermacher@earthlink.net>
Try a Hobby store.
They have all sorts of piano wire.
Or on the net: www.towerhobbies.com
Dave
> [Original Message]
> From: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 1/8/2005 4:04:05 PM
> Subject: RV-List: Fatter hinge pins
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I used some of the smaller aluminum piano hinge that came with my RV-6A
> kit to mount some things under the instrument panel. (Not the big hinge
> that is used to hold on the cowling.) It works OK, but the 0.062 hinge
> pin is really a bit under-sized. It makes the piano hinge a bit loose.
> I found that a 0.075 wire is a bit too big to fit in hinge eyes, so
> something in the 0.070" range might do it.
>
> I checked the piano wire at the hardware store and the coat hangers in
> my closet, but no luck so far. Does any one know a source for a
> slightly thicker hinge pin for these piano hinges?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall.
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@webkorner.com>
At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon pitot tube
has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes through
the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it was important to have
no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that there is a leak "designed"
into this pitot tube. What gives here? And don't they check the pitot system
for leaks during the bi-annual pitot/static/transponder check?
Ron Schreck
Gold Hill NC. RV-8
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Fatter hinge pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Dave:
I'd forgotten about them. Small Parts has some 0.069 stainless that
looks promising. I ordered it. Thanks for the tip.
do not archive
--
Tom Sargent
David Burton wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
>Hi Tom,
>
>Check with Small Parts. They are a great resource. Their stuff is
>expen$ive, but I'm willing to support a company who gathers up useful,
>hard-to-find parts and makes it available in one place...
>
>http://www.smallparts.com/
>
>Good luck!
>Dave
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: > Re: Fatter Hinge Pins |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Try Van's Aircraft - they are a company which gathers up aircraft things and
sells them at a reasonable price. Often cheaper than the cheapo places
sell hardware variety junk.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
I have just finished installing the elevators on my RV-7 and after making
sure all the dimensions were correct and the elevators were true and
symmetrical (they are within 1/16 of each other) I find that the elevator
horns do not line up exactly (they are off by approx 3/16). I cannot find
any area where these could be riveted off angle so I have to conclude that
the powder coated horn assemblies are not exact. Is this a problem that
others have experienced? I do not see how I can replace the horns at this
stage and so I am somewhat stumped.
Appreciate any advice
Dave Figgins (finishing empennage, waiting for wings)
Do not archive
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator horns |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
David Figgins wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
>I have just finished installing the elevators on my RV-7 and after making
>sure all the dimensions were correct and the elevators were true and
>symmetrical (they are within 1/16 of each other) I find that the elevator
>horns do not line up exactly (they are off by approx 3/16). I cannot find
>any area where these could be riveted off angle so I have to conclude that
>the powder coated horn assemblies are not exact. Is this a problem that
>others have experienced? I do not see how I can replace the horns at this
>stage and so I am somewhat stumped.
>Appreciate any advice
>
>Dave Figgins (finishing empennage, waiting for wings)
>Do not archive
>
>
>_
>
Very common problem, don't worry about it.
Jerry
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Simple Green, again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan Krueger <pndkrueg@mchsi.com>
Am assuming that this thread is referring to household Simple Green.
Company website has an Extreme Simple Green that is used for A/C
cleaning. Info at: http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext.php.
Customer service number is 800-228-0709 to find out where you can
purchase it. I have not tried it - but will call them Monday.
Dan Krueger
RV-6A flying
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RV7-List: Elevator horns |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Dave,
Don't worry much about it. From what I've been told, it's just the way
these weldments are made. 1/8" misalignment is basically no misalignment at
all for this application.
Get them as close as you can, while keeping the elevator to HS clearance the
same (or as close to it as possible) on both sides. You can phenagle it
slightly by adjusting the rod ends -- which it sounds like you already have.
When you've got it as close as possible, drill the center bearing pivot hole
in each horn. Just be as precise as you can when drilling that hole.
FWIW, I used a 1/4" OD #40 ID drill bushing that I bought from McMaster Carr
(http://www.mcmaster.com), and that sure helps to make sure you've got
perfect holes drilled at the center bearing. I did one elevator at a time,
putting the bushing through the bearing -- allowing me to pinpoint that #40
pilot hole in each horn.
My elevators are smooth and loose as a goose despite the slight misalignment
of the horns I had before drilling. Just do your best and move on.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator horns
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
> They do not line up if you look at them from the top, I have since
measured
> the distance from the rear of the stab to the first spar rivet line on the
> elevators and it was off on the left elevator (not parallel) so I adjusted
> the bearing rods to get left and right the same, the horn misalignment is
> now only about 1/8.
>
>
> Dave Figgins
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Merems
> To: rv7-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV7-List: Elevator horns
>
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems" <merems@cox.net>
>
> Dave,
>
> Are you talking about the clocking (rotation) of the horns to one another?
> If so mine have a slight mismatch.
>
> Paul (RV-4/RV-7A fuselage)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: David Figgins
> To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rv7-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 4:29 PM
> Subject: RV7-List: Elevator horns
>
>
> --> RV7-List message posted by: "David Figgins"
<2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
> I have just finished installing the elevators on my RV-7 and after
making
> sure all the dimensions were correct and the elevators were true and
> symmetrical (they are within 1/16 of each other) I find that the
elevator
> horns do not line up exactly (they are off by approx 3/16). I cannot
find
> any area where these could be riveted off angle so I have to conclude
that
> the powder coated horn assemblies are not exact. Is this a problem that
> others have experienced? I do not see how I can replace the horns at
this
> stage and so I am somewhat stumped.
> Appreciate any advice
>
> Dave Figgins (finishing empennage, waiting for wings)
> Do not archive
>
>
> advertising on the Matronics Forums.
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
If the head is a heated one, that may be a drain hole to let water out.
When I put the wings back on the Imitutor after repairing it for five
months, I couldn't get the pitot system to hold pressure( from a
blood-pressure cuff handpump). After a couple of futile hours under the
panel disconnecting and plugging lines, I finally heard a faint hissing from
this tiny hole in the bottom of the pitot tube.
A single wrap of electrical tape sealed that, and then the system worked
perfectly.
During the airplane's first assembly before the initial flight, I didn't
encounter this problem; I must have shoved the elastic tubing onto the pitot
head so far that it covered the drain hole, and I was none the wiser.
Scott in VAncouver RV-6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@webkorner.com>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@webkorner.com>
>
> At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon
> pitot tube has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it
> passes through the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it
> was important to have no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that
> there is a leak "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here? And
> don't they check the pitot system for leaks during the bi-annual
> pitot/static/transponder check?
>
> Ron Schreck
> Gold Hill NC. RV-8
>
>
>
Message 26
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|
vansairforce@yahoogroups.com
| Subject: | Oil cooler fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I'm having trouble finding the right fittings for my oil cooler. I'm
moving it up in front on the left side. The problem I'm running into is
that the AN-whatever 90 degree fittings I had on the oil cooler
interfere with the lower cowling. If anyone else has their cooler
mounted in this position especially if it's in an RV-4, if you've seen a
good installation, or even if you have opinion on it I'd appreciate
suggestions! Thanks.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Hi all,
Great weather we are having on the west coast. I have a question for you who
have been there done that.
All control surfaces up to now have you use the bend break to narrow the gap
and relieve the stress in the trailing edges after you have done your work
to the stiffeners and before final assembly. The flaps are all drilled and
apart for all the necessary tasks but the question to anyone that can answer
this is, "Do you bend the top flap skin trailing edge to meet the bottom
skin a little easier"?
The construction manual becomes more or less shorter and to the point as you
progress in the project so it does leave some questions.
Bruce Gray
RV8 Wing's
#81745
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Simple Green, again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I have mixed feelings about Simple Green. If you go out and find how the
USAF disqualified Simple Green you begin to wonder.
As I remember they weighed a piece of aluminum, placed it in a container of
undiluted, heated Simple green and left it there for something like a month.
Then weighed it. It did discolor the aluminum and there was a very small
weight loss. I believe that the same would happen with tap water under the
same conditions.
The people that really worry, say that it could seep under a lap joint and
make the plane unairworthy via corrosion. How long? Who Really knows?
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Subject: RV-List: Simple Green, again.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
>
> There have been corrosion problems identified with using Simple Green on
> aluminum. Whether it's a big problem I can't say. Since there are lots
of
> alternatives that are know to be safe why chance it? I've been using
Task2
> lately and like it. Haven't tried in on exhaust residue but it's worked
> well on just about anything else and seems safe for just about all
surfaces.
> Not the easiest thing to fine though... I buy it from Aronson-Campbell
> Industrial supply in Seattle.
>
> I've always used Stoddard solvent on the plane's belly and greasy areas in
> the past. Task is much more environmentally friendly though:
>
http://www.masterchemical.com/db-docs/press-releases/03-0212_TASK2_Biodeg.pdf
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
Hi Ron;
Mine is on my plane at the airport so I can't look at it to confirm, but
I
think you may be looking at the AOA sense holes. I can't recall the exact
location and configuration of these holes, but I know they are there.
Todd
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Schreck
Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@webkorner.com>
At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon pitot
tube has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes
through the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it was
important to have no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that there is a
leak "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here? And don't they
check the pitot system for leaks during the bi-annual
pitot/static/transponder check?
Ron Schreck
Gold Hill NC. RV-8
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Elevator horns |
--> RV-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net
Dave
Not to worry
What matters is that the elevators are entrail when you drill the holes
Peter
On 8 Jan 2005 at 16:29, David Figgins wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins"
> <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
>
> I have just finished installing the elevators on my RV-7 and after
> making sure all the dimensions were correct and the elevators were
> true and symmetrical (they are within 1/16 of each other) I find that
> the elevator horns do not line up exactly (they are off by approx
> 3/16). I cannot find any area where these could be riveted off angle
> so I have to conclude that the powder coated horn assemblies are not
> exact. Is this a problem that others have experienced? I do not see
> how I can replace the horns at this stage and so I am somewhat
> stumped. Appreciate any advice
>
> Dave Figgins (finishing empennage, waiting for wings)
> Do not archive
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Shortening Exhaust Pipes |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
That depends.... Checkout "Extreme Simple Green"
http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext.php
Dave
Chuck Jensen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>
>Mike,
>
>Pretty brave using Simple Green around an aluminum aircraft?
>
>Chuck
>
>
>Mike wrote
>
>I wipe down the 'exhaust film' from my belly with simple green.
>
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
No, there really are drain holes (at least on the heated version). The
AOA hole is on the front and is not connected to the pitot hole.
Dick Tasker
Todd Bartrim wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
>
>Hi Ron;
> Mine is on my plane at the airport so I can't look at it to confirm, but
I
>think you may be looking at the AOA sense holes. I can't recall the exact
>location and configuration of these holes, but I know they are there.
>
>Todd
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Schreck
>To: RV List
>Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@webkorner.com>
>
>At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon pitot
>tube has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes
>through the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it was
>important to have no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that there is a
>leak "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here? And don't they
>check the pitot system for leaks during the bi-annual
>pitot/static/transponder check?
>
>Ron Schreck
>Gold Hill NC. RV-8
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Ron,
My Cessna heated pitot also has a small hole in the lower rear region (the
heel) . On testing with low air pressure it vents from the pitot tube
passage. A water drain outlet would be the logical conclusion.
I suppose it could also serve to tune out or flatten out some turbulence
fluctuations. The hole is a very small (about .035) diameter and it's
existence would still allow overall system calibration.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker"
> <retasker@optonline.net>
>
> No, there really are drain holes (at least on the heated version). The
> AOA hole is on the front and is not connected to the pitot hole.
>
> Dick Tasker
>
> Todd Bartrim wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
>>
>>Hi Ron;
>> Mine is on my plane at the airport so I can't look at it to
>> confirm, but I
>>think you may be looking at the AOA sense holes. I can't recall the exact
>>location and configuration of these holes, but I know they are there.
>>
>>Todd
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Schreck
>>To: RV List
>>Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak
>>
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" <ronschreck@webkorner.com>
>>
>>At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon
>>pitot
>>tube has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes
>>through the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it was
>>important to have no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that there is
>>a
>>leak "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here? And don't they
>>check the pitot system for leaks during the bi-annual
>>pitot/static/transponder check?
>>
>>Ron Schreck
>>Gold Hill NC. RV-8
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
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