---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 01/08/05: 33 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:59 AM - Re: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux (j1j2h3@juno.com) 2. 12:59 AM - Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) (j1j2h3@juno.com) 3. 04:52 AM - Re: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) (linn walters) 4. 08:23 AM - Re: Shortening Exhaust Pipes (Chuck Jensen) 5. 08:40 AM - Wiring G207 Grip (Trainnut01@aol.com) 6. 09:47 AM - Re: Wiring G207 Grip (Sam Buchanan) 7. 09:50 AM - Re: Shortening Exhaust Pipes (Sam Buchanan) 8. 11:35 AM - OT: leather jacket restoration?? (Charlie England) 9. 11:46 AM - Re: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux (Tom Gummo) 10. 12:39 PM - Re: Wiring G207 Grip (Mickey Coggins) 11. 12:49 PM - Re: OT: leather jacket restoration?? (David Burton) 12. 12:59 PM - Simple Green, again. (David Burton) 13. 01:04 PM - Fatter hinge pins (sarg314) 14. 01:26 PM - Re: Simple Green, again. (John Spicer) 15. 01:31 PM - Simple Green (Chuck Jensen) 16. 01:58 PM - Re: Fatter hinge pins (David Burton) 17. 01:58 PM - Re: Fatter hinge pins (David Fenstermacher) 18. 02:57 PM - Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Ron Schreck) 19. 03:08 PM - Re: Fatter hinge pins (sarg314) 20. 03:23 PM - > Re: Fatter Hinge Pins (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 21. 03:29 PM - Elevator horns (David Figgins) 22. 03:48 PM - Re: Elevator horns (Jerry Springer) 23. 04:16 PM - Re: Simple Green, again. (Dan Krueger) 24. 05:04 PM - Re: RV7-List: Elevator horns (Dan Checkoway) 25. 05:33 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Scott Jackson) 26. 06:21 PM - Oil cooler fittings (Scott VanArtsdalen) 27. 06:26 PM - FL-801PP-R/L (BRUCE GRAY) 28. 07:12 PM - Re: Simple Green, again. (cgalley) 29. 07:41 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Todd Bartrim) 30. 07:48 PM - Re: Elevator horns (plaurence@the-beach.net) 31. 08:25 PM - Re: Shortening Exhaust Pipes (Dave Bristol) 32. 10:24 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Richard E. Tasker) 33. 11:33 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Jim Jewell) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:59:13 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux From: j1j2h3@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com Delaware is another possibility. They do not have any sales tax. Also no corporate tax. One of the flying magazines did a survey a while ago on the number of aircraft registered and the number of licensed pilots in each state. Delaware came out with a whole lot more airplanes than pilots. Jim Hasper - RV-7 Giving new meaning to the term "slow build" Franklin, TN Do not archive > Time: 09:23:59 AM PST US > From: "Tim Bryan" > Subject: Re: RV-List: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" > > > Have you considered registering this plane in another state? Might > help > with liability too if registered to a Nevada Corp or other entity in > another > state. > > Tim > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 12:59:13 AM PST US Subject: RV-List: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) From: j1j2h3@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com Your statements are correct, but you are missing a point. The pressure above the cylinders will indeed be greater with a plenum than with a baffled cowl. In both cases, the pressure measured at the cowl inlet will be same. However, because the baffled cowl has a greater volume than the plenum, the air will expand more after passing the cowl inlet. This expansion will reduce the pressure. There is another aspect of efficiency that no one has addressed yet in this thread. Any reduction of the velocity of air moving over your plane requires energy, and that reduces your speed. This is most intuitively obvious when you think of a blunt shape versus a pointed one. Air at the dynamic center of the blunt shape actually comes to a complete stop before finding its way back into the slip stream. This is also true of the air that moves through your cowling. With the baffled cowl, the air velocity is reduced more than with a plenum, as I explained above. Therefore, this reduces the speed of your plane. Anything that you can do to help the air maintain its velocity will increase your speed. This is why it is important to seal the plenum tightly to the cowl inlet, so that air does not leak into the cowling outside of the plenum. Of course, you probably should have some air moving there to carry away heat that is given off by the engine parts that are not inside the plenum. Since the air in the plenum is heated by the engine, it will try to expand. If you were able to maintain a constant cross section of the plenum, the air velocity would actually increase. If you could then direct this air toward the rear of the plane, it would generate some additional thrust. I have not done any calculations to determine the amount of thrust possible, but - hey - every little bit helps. Jim Hasper - RV-7 Giving new meaning to the term "slow build" (partly because I waste time doing silly things like getting involved in this) Franklin, TN Do not archive > Time: 09:42:05 PM PST US > From: GMC > Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT)(& Long) > > --> RV-List message posted by: GMC > (snip) > Seems to me the cooling depends mostly on the airflow created by > the > pressure differential above/below the cylinders. I can't see how > reducing > the volume above the cylinders with a box type plenum will change > that > pressure (anyone measured that). > > Standing by to be educated! > > George in Langley BC > 6A flying > 7a wings > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:52:22 AM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters j1j2h3@juno.com wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com > >Your statements are correct, but you are missing a point. The pressure >above the cylinders will indeed be greater with a plenum than with a >baffled cowl. In both cases, the pressure measured at the cowl inlet >will be same. However, because the baffled cowl has a greater volume >than the plenum, the air will expand more after passing the cowl inlet. >This expansion will reduce the pressure. > Maybe I should stay a night at Holiday Inn Express ..... I don't think this is true. At least not in the long run. Once the plenum (or the normal cowl-sealed baffles) has been pressurized, there is no expansion difference between the two. The back pressure at the cowl inlet will be the same, assuming perfectly sealed cowl baffles. If the resistance were to change inside the plenum (which id doesn't), the speed of the air entering would change. The benefits of a plenum are that the cowl-sealed baffles are not a perfect seal by any stretch, so some volume of air leaks around the baffles. This will lower the pressure over the engine, and lower the amount of coolaing air going bast the cylinders. It will also raise the pressure in the lower cowl. >There is another aspect of efficiency that no one has addressed yet in >this thread. Any reduction of the velocity of air moving over your plane >requires energy, and that reduces your speed. This is most intuitively >obvious when you think of a blunt shape versus a pointed one. Air at the >dynamic center of the blunt shape actually comes to a complete stop >before finding its way back into the slip stream. > Cooling drag is is real. The theoretical ideal would be to have the exit volume equal the inlet volume, taking into account all the internal drag. You can use a manometer to measure the pressure difference above and below the engine. >This is also true of the air that moves through your cowling. With the >baffled cowl, the air velocity is reduced more than with a plenum, as I >explained above. > No, only because of leaks > Therefore, this reduces the speed of your plane. >Anything that you can do to help the air maintain its velocity will >increase your speed. This is why it is important to seal the plenum >tightly to the cowl inlet, so that air does not leak into the cowling >outside of the plenum. Of course, you probably should have some air >moving there to carry away heat that is given off by the engine parts >that are not inside the plenum. > I think there's enough turbulence to at least lower the heat downstream of the engine. Some areas will be hotter than others though. Sealing the plenum to the inlet prevents the bypass leak there .... and that leak can be significant. >Since the air in the plenum is heated by the engine, it will try to >expand. > air is a poor conductor of heat .... but it's all we have. The air in the plenum, I'm guessing doesn't gain enough heat to be significant ..... but when it gets around the cylinders the rise is significant. > If you were able to maintain a constant cross section of the >plenum, the air velocity would actually increase. If you could then >direct this air toward the rear of the plane, it would generate some >additional thrust. I have not done any calculations to determine the >amount of thrust possible, but - hey - every little bit helps. > The expansion isn't great .... but in a theoretical world .... yes, it would help, but you have to remember that the pressure on that air is generated by the speed of the airplane and air flow resistance would eat up any gain by expansion. Cooling drag is cooling drag. Nice idea though. I didn't do the math either. Maybe if I stayed two nights .... :-) Linn ..... agrees, plenums are better for more efficient cooling. do not archive > >Jim Hasper - RV-7 >Giving new meaning to the term "slow build" (partly because I waste time >doing silly things like getting involved in this) >Franklin, TN > >Do not archive > > > >>Time: 09:42:05 PM PST US >>From: GMC >>Subject: RE: RV-List: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT)(& Long) >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: GMC >>(snip) >>Seems to me the cooling depends mostly on the airflow created by >>the >>pressure differential above/below the cylinders. I can't see how >>reducing >>the volume above the cylinders with a box type plenum will change >>that >>pressure (anyone measured that). >> >>Standing by to be educated! >> >>George in Langley BC >>6A flying >>7a wings >> >> >> > > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:23:23 AM PST US From: "Chuck Jensen" Subject: RE: RV-List: Shortening Exhaust Pipes --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" Mike, Pretty brave using Simple Green around an aluminum aircraft? Chuck Mike wrote I wipe down the 'exhaust film' from my belly with simple green. ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:40:07 AM PST US From: Trainnut01@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Wiring G207 Grip --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com All I'm wiring the switches in my stick grip and do not have my EZ Pilot or my Icom radio yet. What switch logic is required for the Autopilot Disconnect switch and what switch logic is required for the frequency change on the radio? I could do it later but I'm to lazy to take it apart again. Thanks Carroll Jernigan RV7A Wiring ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:47:44 AM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring G207 Grip --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan Trainnut01@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com > > All > I'm wiring the switches in my stick grip and do not have my EZ Pilot or my > Icom radio yet. What switch logic is required for the Autopilot Disconnect > switch and what switch logic is required for the frequency change on the radio? > I could do it later but I'm to lazy to take it apart again. > Thanks > Carroll Jernigan > RV7A Wiring EZ-Pilot User and Installation Manual is here: http://www.trioavionics.com/Manual%20rev%201.9%20for%20PDF.pdf Pages 35 and 36 will show wiring diagram. Autopilot disconnect is simply a short to ground. You will enjoy your EZ-Pilot. :-) Sam Buchanan (RV-6 with EZ-Pilot) http://home.hiwaay.net/~sbuc/journal/EZ_Pilot.htm ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:50:00 AM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Shortening Exhaust Pipes --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan Chuck Jensen wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" > > Mike, > > Pretty brave using Simple Green around an aluminum aircraft? > > Chuck > > > Mike wrote > > I wipe down the 'exhaust film' from my belly with simple green. I use Simple Green, too. Does this mean I'm also pretty brave? :-) Sam Buchanan (RV-6 aluminum aircraft) ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:35:24 AM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: RV-List: OT: leather jacket restoration?? --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England A friend has given me an old leather flying jacket. The leather is dry & stiff. Is there a preferred method of restoring the leather? The last time I worried about treating leather was oiling my baseball glove with neatsfoot oil as a kid. Thanks, Charlie ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:46:53 AM PST US From: "Tom Gummo" Subject: Re: RV-List: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Gummo" Please go to Trade A Plane and look up the value of a Gummo Special. It isn't there. What you name your plane makes a big difference. They found my construction loan and assigned that value to my plane. Better than some inflated value of someone trying to sell his plane in Trade A Plane. I have a friend who had a RV-6A. He got a crashed plane where he got most of the instruments, the engine and the prop. He had less than 21,000 in the whole thing. They kept trying to assess it somewhere between 45,000-65,000 (values found in Trade A Plane for a RV-6A). He would take the recites and fight with them. They won't come down to the 21,000 but he normally got it lowered some. Tom Gummo Apple Valley, CA Gummo Special aka Harmon Rocket-II do not archive http://mysite.verizon.net/t.gummo/index.html ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux > --> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com > > Delaware is another possibility. They do not have any sales tax. Also > no corporate tax. One of the flying magazines did a survey a while ago > on the number of aircraft registered and the number of licensed pilots in > each state. Delaware came out with a whole lot more airplanes than > pilots. > > Jim Hasper - RV-7 > Giving new meaning to the term "slow build" > Franklin, TN > > Do not archive > > >> Time: 09:23:59 AM PST US >> From: "Tim Bryan" >> Subject: Re: RV-List: Orange County CA Tax Assessor, Redux >> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tim Bryan" >> >> >> Have you considered registering this plane in another state? Might >> help >> with liability too if registered to a Nevada Corp or other entity in >> another >> state. >> >> Tim >> > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:39:17 PM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring G207 Grip --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi, I've got the Icom IC-A200 radio installation instructions here: http://www.rv8.ch/files/Icom%20IC-A200%20Installation%20Instructions.pdf Frequency change is ground to activate. You can also have a ground to activate "Memory Channel Switch". Mickey Trainnut01@aol.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com > > All > I'm wiring the switches in my stick grip and do not have my EZ Pilot or my > Icom radio yet. What switch logic is required for the Autopilot Disconnect > switch and what switch logic is required for the frequency change on the radio? > I could do it later but I'm to lazy to take it apart again. > Thanks > Carroll Jernigan > RV7A Wiring > -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 12:49:20 PM PST US From: "David Burton" Subject: Re: RV-List: OT: leather jacket restoration?? --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" Hi Charley, There are companies that specialize in the repair and restoration of flight jackets. Might be more expensive then what you had in mind... I donno. Here is one place, they sell new too: http://www.uswings.com/repair.asp You can purchase an accurate duplicate of military flying jackets here as well: http://www.flightjacket.com/detail.aspx?ID=3 I've had good luck using "Hyde Food". Since Connolly leather company is no longer in business it is getting harder to find, but I see it on the web. There may be others that work, this is the only one I have ever used on my Jaguars and I like it a lot. If there comes a time I can no longer get Hyde Food I'll try this: http://www.leatherique.com/ Good luck! Dave, RV6 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 12:59:17 PM PST US From: "David Burton" Subject: RV-List: Simple Green, again. --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" There have been corrosion problems identified with using Simple Green on aluminum. Whether it's a big problem I can't say. Since there are lots of alternatives that are know to be safe why chance it? I've been using Task2 lately and like it. Haven't tried in on exhaust residue but it's worked well on just about anything else and seems safe for just about all surfaces. Not the easiest thing to fine though... I buy it from Aronson-Campbell Industrial supply in Seattle. I've always used Stoddard solvent on the plane's belly and greasy areas in the past. Task is much more environmentally friendly though: http://www.masterchemical.com/db-docs/press-releases/03-0212_TASK2_Biodeg.pdf ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 01:04:22 PM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: RV-List: Fatter hinge pins --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 I used some of the smaller aluminum piano hinge that came with my RV-6A kit to mount some things under the instrument panel. (Not the big hinge that is used to hold on the cowling.) It works OK, but the 0.062 hinge pin is really a bit under-sized. It makes the piano hinge a bit loose. I found that a 0.075 wire is a bit too big to fit in hinge eyes, so something in the 0.070" range might do it. I checked the piano wire at the hardware store and the coat hangers in my closet, but no luck so far. Does any one know a source for a slightly thicker hinge pin for these piano hinges? Thanks, -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall. ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:26:57 PM PST US From: "John Spicer" Subject: RE: RV-List: Simple Green, again. --> RV-List message posted by: "John Spicer" I've heard of this problem before and am curious to read about it. Does anyone know of any online documentation or information on the issues with "simple green" and aluminum? -- John www.rivetbangers.com - A marriage of web and email. Building more than RV's www.spikesplace.org/cgi-php/serendipity - Build Log --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" There have been corrosion problems identified with using Simple Green on aluminum. Whether it's a big problem I can't say. Since there are lots of alternatives that are know to be safe why chance it? I've been using Task2 lately and like it. Haven't tried in on exhaust residue but it's worked well on just about anything else and seems safe for just about all surfaces. Not the easiest thing to fine though... I buy it from Aronson-Campbell Industrial supply in Seattle. I've always used Stoddard solvent on the plane's belly and greasy areas in the past. Task is much more environmentally friendly though: http://www.masterchemical.com/db-docs/press-releases/03-0212_TASK2_Biode g.pdf --- ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 01:31:27 PM PST US From: "Chuck Jensen" Subject: RV-List: Simple Green --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" The Airforce has prohibited use of Simple Green because of its highly corrosive interaction with aluminum. As long as you don't get it in cracks or around rivets (that aren't perfectly sealed by paint), you'll probably be okay, but that's a tall order. In short, there is no dispute that Simple Green is highly corrosive to aluminum when residual SG has an opportunity to hideout in cracks and rivets. Chuck -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Shortening Exhaust Pipes --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan Chuck Jensen wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" > > Mike, > > Pretty brave using Simple Green around an aluminum aircraft? > > Chuck > > > Mike wrote > > I wipe down the 'exhaust film' from my belly with simple green. I use Simple Green, too. Does this mean I'm also pretty brave? :-) Sam Buchanan (RV-6 aluminum aircraft) ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 01:58:49 PM PST US From: "David Burton" Subject: Re: RV-List: Fatter hinge pins --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" Hi Tom, Check with Small Parts. They are a great resource. Their stuff is expen$ive, but I'm willing to support a company who gathers up useful, hard-to-find parts and makes it available in one place... http://www.smallparts.com/ Good luck! Dave ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 01:58:57 PM PST US From: "David Fenstermacher" Subject: RE: RV-List: Fatter hinge pins --> RV-List message posted by: "David Fenstermacher" Try a Hobby store. They have all sorts of piano wire. Or on the net: www.towerhobbies.com Dave > [Original Message] > From: sarg314 > To: > Date: 1/8/2005 4:04:05 PM > Subject: RV-List: Fatter hinge pins > > --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 > > I used some of the smaller aluminum piano hinge that came with my RV-6A > kit to mount some things under the instrument panel. (Not the big hinge > that is used to hold on the cowling.) It works OK, but the 0.062 hinge > pin is really a bit under-sized. It makes the piano hinge a bit loose. > I found that a 0.075 wire is a bit too big to fit in hinge eyes, so > something in the 0.070" range might do it. > > I checked the piano wire at the hardware store and the coat hangers in > my closet, but no luck so far. Does any one know a source for a > slightly thicker hinge pin for these piano hinges? > > Thanks, > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall. > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 02:57:20 PM PST US From: "Ron Schreck" Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon pitot tube has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes through the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it was important to have no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that there is a leak "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here? And don't they check the pitot system for leaks during the bi-annual pitot/static/transponder check? Ron Schreck Gold Hill NC. RV-8 ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 03:08:29 PM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: Re: RV-List: Fatter hinge pins --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 Dave: I'd forgotten about them. Small Parts has some 0.069 stainless that looks promising. I ordered it. Thanks for the tip. do not archive -- Tom Sargent David Burton wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" > >Hi Tom, > >Check with Small Parts. They are a great resource. Their stuff is >expen$ive, but I'm willing to support a company who gathers up useful, >hard-to-find parts and makes it available in one place... > >http://www.smallparts.com/ > >Good luck! >Dave > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:23:57 PM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: > Re: Fatter Hinge Pins --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com Try Van's Aircraft - they are a company which gathers up aircraft things and sells them at a reasonable price. Often cheaper than the cheapo places sell hardware variety junk. Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 03:29:37 PM PST US From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net> Subject: RV-List: Elevator horns --> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net> I have just finished installing the elevators on my RV-7 and after making sure all the dimensions were correct and the elevators were true and symmetrical (they are within 1/16 of each other) I find that the elevator horns do not line up exactly (they are off by approx 3/16). I cannot find any area where these could be riveted off angle so I have to conclude that the powder coated horn assemblies are not exact. Is this a problem that others have experienced? I do not see how I can replace the horns at this stage and so I am somewhat stumped. Appreciate any advice Dave Figgins (finishing empennage, waiting for wings) Do not archive ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:48:19 PM PST US From: Jerry Springer Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horns --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer David Figgins wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net> > >I have just finished installing the elevators on my RV-7 and after making >sure all the dimensions were correct and the elevators were true and >symmetrical (they are within 1/16 of each other) I find that the elevator >horns do not line up exactly (they are off by approx 3/16). I cannot find >any area where these could be riveted off angle so I have to conclude that >the powder coated horn assemblies are not exact. Is this a problem that >others have experienced? I do not see how I can replace the horns at this >stage and so I am somewhat stumped. >Appreciate any advice > >Dave Figgins (finishing empennage, waiting for wings) >Do not archive > > >_ > Very common problem, don't worry about it. Jerry ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:16:07 PM PST US From: Dan Krueger Subject: Re: RV-List: Simple Green, again. --> RV-List message posted by: Dan Krueger Am assuming that this thread is referring to household Simple Green. Company website has an Extreme Simple Green that is used for A/C cleaning. Info at: http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext.php. Customer service number is 800-228-0709 to find out where you can purchase it. I have not tried it - but will call them Monday. Dan Krueger RV-6A flying ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 05:04:37 PM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: RV-List: Re: RV7-List: Elevator horns --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Dave, Don't worry much about it. From what I've been told, it's just the way these weldments are made. 1/8" misalignment is basically no misalignment at all for this application. Get them as close as you can, while keeping the elevator to HS clearance the same (or as close to it as possible) on both sides. You can phenagle it slightly by adjusting the rod ends -- which it sounds like you already have. When you've got it as close as possible, drill the center bearing pivot hole in each horn. Just be as precise as you can when drilling that hole. FWIW, I used a 1/4" OD #40 ID drill bushing that I bought from McMaster Carr (http://www.mcmaster.com), and that sure helps to make sure you've got perfect holes drilled at the center bearing. I did one elevator at a time, putting the bushing through the bearing -- allowing me to pinpoint that #40 pilot hole in each horn. My elevators are smooth and loose as a goose despite the slight misalignment of the horns I had before drilling. Just do your best and move on. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: RV7-List: Elevator horns > --> RV7-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net> > > They do not line up if you look at them from the top, I have since measured > the distance from the rear of the stab to the first spar rivet line on the > elevators and it was off on the left elevator (not parallel) so I adjusted > the bearing rods to get left and right the same, the horn misalignment is > now only about 1/8. > > > Dave Figgins > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv7-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Merems > To: rv7-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV7-List: Elevator horns > > --> RV7-List message posted by: "Merems" > > Dave, > > Are you talking about the clocking (rotation) of the horns to one another? > If so mine have a slight mismatch. > > Paul (RV-4/RV-7A fuselage) > ----- Original Message ----- > From: David Figgins > To: rv-list@matronics.com ; rv7-list@matronics.com > Sent: Saturday, January 08, 2005 4:29 PM > Subject: RV7-List: Elevator horns > > > --> RV7-List message posted by: "David Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net> > > I have just finished installing the elevators on my RV-7 and after making > sure all the dimensions were correct and the elevators were true and > symmetrical (they are within 1/16 of each other) I find that the elevator > horns do not line up exactly (they are off by approx 3/16). I cannot find > any area where these could be riveted off angle so I have to conclude that > the powder coated horn assemblies are not exact. Is this a problem that > others have experienced? I do not see how I can replace the horns at this > stage and so I am somewhat stumped. > Appreciate any advice > > Dave Figgins (finishing empennage, waiting for wings) > Do not archive > > > advertising on the Matronics Forums. > > ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 05:33:51 PM PST US From: "Scott Jackson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" If the head is a heated one, that may be a drain hole to let water out. When I put the wings back on the Imitutor after repairing it for five months, I couldn't get the pitot system to hold pressure( from a blood-pressure cuff handpump). After a couple of futile hours under the panel disconnecting and plugging lines, I finally heard a faint hissing from this tiny hole in the bottom of the pitot tube. A single wrap of electrical tape sealed that, and then the system worked perfectly. During the airplane's first assembly before the initial flight, I didn't encounter this problem; I must have shoved the elastic tubing onto the pitot head so far that it covered the drain hole, and I was none the wiser. Scott in VAncouver RV-6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ron Schreck" Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" > > At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon > pitot tube has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it > passes through the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it > was important to have no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that > there is a leak "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here? And > don't they check the pitot system for leaks during the bi-annual > pitot/static/transponder check? > > Ron Schreck > Gold Hill NC. RV-8 > > > ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 06:21:08 PM PST US From: Scott VanArtsdalen vansairforce@yahoogroups.com Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler fittings --> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen I'm having trouble finding the right fittings for my oil cooler. I'm moving it up in front on the left side. The problem I'm running into is that the AN-whatever 90 degree fittings I had on the oil cooler interfere with the lower cowling. If anyone else has their cooler mounted in this position especially if it's in an RV-4, if you've seen a good installation, or even if you have opinion on it I'd appreciate suggestions! Thanks. -- Scott VanArtsdalen Van Arts Consulting Services 3848 McHenry Ave Suite #155-184 Modesto, CA 95356 209-986-4647 www.rivetbangers.com Now with email!! How you want it, When you want it. ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 06:26:24 PM PST US From: "BRUCE GRAY" Subject: RV-List: FL-801PP-R/L --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" Hi all, Great weather we are having on the west coast. I have a question for you who have been there done that. All control surfaces up to now have you use the bend break to narrow the gap and relieve the stress in the trailing edges after you have done your work to the stiffeners and before final assembly. The flaps are all drilled and apart for all the necessary tasks but the question to anyone that can answer this is, "Do you bend the top flap skin trailing edge to meet the bottom skin a little easier"? The construction manual becomes more or less shorter and to the point as you progress in the project so it does leave some questions. Bruce Gray RV8 Wing's #81745 ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 07:12:25 PM PST US From: "cgalley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Simple Green, again. --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" I have mixed feelings about Simple Green. If you go out and find how the USAF disqualified Simple Green you begin to wonder. As I remember they weighed a piece of aluminum, placed it in a container of undiluted, heated Simple green and left it there for something like a month. Then weighed it. It did discolor the aluminum and there was a very small weight loss. I believe that the same would happen with tap water under the same conditions. The people that really worry, say that it could seep under a lap joint and make the plane unairworthy via corrosion. How long? Who Really knows? Cy Galley EAA Safety Programs Editor Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Burton" Subject: RV-List: Simple Green, again. > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" > > There have been corrosion problems identified with using Simple Green on > aluminum. Whether it's a big problem I can't say. Since there are lots of > alternatives that are know to be safe why chance it? I've been using Task2 > lately and like it. Haven't tried in on exhaust residue but it's worked > well on just about anything else and seems safe for just about all surfaces. > Not the easiest thing to fine though... I buy it from Aronson-Campbell > Industrial supply in Seattle. > > I've always used Stoddard solvent on the plane's belly and greasy areas in > the past. Task is much more environmentally friendly though: > http://www.masterchemical.com/db-docs/press-releases/03-0212_TASK2_Biodeg.pdf > > ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 07:41:42 PM PST US From: "Todd Bartrim" Subject: RE: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" Hi Ron; Mine is on my plane at the airport so I can't look at it to confirm, but I think you may be looking at the AOA sense holes. I can't recall the exact location and configuration of these holes, but I know they are there. Todd -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Schreck Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon pitot tube has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes through the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it was important to have no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that there is a leak "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here? And don't they check the pitot system for leaks during the bi-annual pitot/static/transponder check? Ron Schreck Gold Hill NC. RV-8 ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 07:48:53 PM PST US From: plaurence@the-beach.net Subject: Re: RV-List: Elevator horns --> RV-List message posted by: plaurence@the-beach.net Dave Not to worry What matters is that the elevators are entrail when you drill the holes Peter On 8 Jan 2005 at 16:29, David Figgins wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "David Figgins" > <2004nospam@earthlink.net> > > I have just finished installing the elevators on my RV-7 and after > making sure all the dimensions were correct and the elevators were > true and symmetrical (they are within 1/16 of each other) I find that > the elevator horns do not line up exactly (they are off by approx > 3/16). I cannot find any area where these could be riveted off angle > so I have to conclude that the powder coated horn assemblies are not > exact. Is this a problem that others have experienced? I do not see > how I can replace the horns at this stage and so I am somewhat > stumped. Appreciate any advice > > Dave Figgins (finishing empennage, waiting for wings) > Do not archive > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 08:25:13 PM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Shortening Exhaust Pipes clamav-milter version 0.80j on zoot.lafn.org --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol That depends.... Checkout "Extreme Simple Green" http://industrial.simplegreen.com/ind_prod_ext.php Dave Chuck Jensen wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" > >Mike, > >Pretty brave using Simple Green around an aluminum aircraft? > >Chuck > > >Mike wrote > >I wipe down the 'exhaust film' from my belly with simple green. > > > > ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 10:24:54 PM PST US From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" No, there really are drain holes (at least on the heated version). The AOA hole is on the front and is not connected to the pitot hole. Dick Tasker Todd Bartrim wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" > >Hi Ron; > Mine is on my plane at the airport so I can't look at it to confirm, but I >think you may be looking at the AOA sense holes. I can't recall the exact >location and configuration of these holes, but I know they are there. > >Todd > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Schreck >To: RV List >Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" > >At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon pitot >tube has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes >through the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it was >important to have no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that there is a >leak "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here? And don't they >check the pitot system for leaks during the bi-annual >pitot/static/transponder check? > >Ron Schreck >Gold Hill NC. RV-8 > > > > ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 11:33:37 PM PST US From: "Jim Jewell" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" Hi Ron, My Cessna heated pitot also has a small hole in the lower rear region (the heel) . On testing with low air pressure it vents from the pitot tube passage. A water drain outlet would be the logical conclusion. I suppose it could also serve to tune out or flatten out some turbulence fluctuations. The hole is a very small (about .035) diameter and it's existence would still allow overall system calibration. Jim in Kelowna ----- Original Message ----- From: "Richard E. Tasker" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak > --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" > > > No, there really are drain holes (at least on the heated version). The > AOA hole is on the front and is not connected to the pitot hole. > > Dick Tasker > > Todd Bartrim wrote: > >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" >> >>Hi Ron; >> Mine is on my plane at the airport so I can't look at it to >> confirm, but I >>think you may be looking at the AOA sense holes. I can't recall the exact >>location and configuration of these holes, but I know they are there. >> >>Todd >> >>-----Original Message----- >>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Schreck >>To: RV List >>Subject: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak >> >> >>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck" >> >>At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm wondering why the Dynon >>pitot >>tube has very small holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes >>through the outer tube. I was always under the impression that it was >>important to have no leaks in the pitot system and now I see that there is >>a >>leak "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here? And don't they >>check the pitot system for leaks during the bi-annual >>pitot/static/transponder check? >> >>Ron Schreck >>Gold Hill NC. RV-8 >> >> >> >> > > >