Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:31 AM - Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) (j1j2h3@juno.com)
2. 05:28 AM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Dale Mitchell)
3. 05:49 AM - Re: Simple Green, again. (j1j2h3@juno.com)
4. 06:25 AM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (John Furey)
5. 07:52 AM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Andrew Douglas)
6. 10:00 AM - Re: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) (Skylor Piper)
7. 10:25 AM - Re: Shortening Exhaust Pipes (DAVID REEL)
8. 10:54 AM - Re: leather jacket restoration?? (Don Diehl)
9. 11:40 AM - Re: leather jacket restoration?? (Jim Jewell)
10. 11:52 AM - Re: Oil cooler fittings (GMC)
11. 12:07 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Mickey Coggins)
12. 02:03 PM - Re: FL-801PP-R/L (GMC)
13. 05:09 PM - uestion (bertrv6@highstream.net)
14. 05:16 PM - Re: FL-801PP-R/L (BRUCE GRAY)
15. 05:24 PM - Fuel Gauge VS PTT (Larry Bowen)
16. 05:36 PM - Looking (cgalley)
17. 05:57 PM - Re:Please unsubscribe (Scott Baldwin)
18. 06:00 PM - Re: Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
19. 06:16 PM - Hub corrosion (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
20. 06:25 PM - Vans Airtech Wingtip Lens Kit (J D Newsum)
21. 06:27 PM - Re: Fuel Gauge VS PTT (Albert Gardner)
22. 06:37 PM - Re: Hub corrosion (Scott Jackson)
23. 06:48 PM - Re: Fuel Gauge VS PTT (Ed Bundy)
24. 07:00 PM - Re: Hub corrosion (John Spicer)
25. 07:21 PM - Re: Hub corrosion (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
26. 07:56 PM - Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak (Jim Jewell)
27. 07:56 PM - Wheel Pant Mounting Brackets (Mark Taylor)
28. 08:27 PM - Re: Simple Green, again. (HCRV6@aol.com)
29. 08:34 PM - Re: Wheel Pant Mounting Brackets (Jeff Point)
30. 08:45 PM - [ H.Ivan Haecker ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! (Email List Photo Shares)
31. 08:57 PM - Re: Simple Green, again. (Mitch Faatz)
32. 11:29 PM - Re: Fuel Gauge VS PTT (Doug Gray)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Maybe I should stay a night at Holiday Inn Express ..... I don't think
this is true.
Sorry, but it IS true. Any time that air is flowing through a passage
way and the cross sectional area of the passage way increases or
decreases there is a pressure loss. The amount of the pressure loss is
dependent upon how abruptly the transition is made, but can never be
eliminated entirely. This can be verified in any text book on fluid
dynamics or handbook on heating and cooling duct design.
I'm afraid I missed the significance of the reference to Holiday Inn
Express. What is it?
> Once the plenum (or the normal cowl-sealed baffles) has been
pressurized, there is no
> expansion difference between the two.
This would only happen if the air was not flowing through the cowl. The
dynamic case changes everything.
> The back pressure at the cowl inlet will be the same, assuming
perfectly sealed cowl baffles.
This is true, even if the baffles are not perfectly sealed, or even if
there were no baffles at all . The pressure at the cowl inlet is the
same, but the pressure at the entrance to the space around the cylinders
will be different.
>The air in the plenum, I'm guessing doesn't gain enough heat to be
significant ... but when it gets around the cylinders the rise
>is significant.
When I referred to heat gain in the plenum, I was referring to the whole
system - the plenum including the space around the cylinders
> The expansion isn't great ...
If air is heated from 40 degrees F. to 100 degrees F., its volume expands
by 20 percent.
> it would help, but you have to remember that the pressure on that air
is generated by the speed of the airplane and air flow
>resistance would eat up any gain by expansion.
How does, a ram jet engine work? Air is compressed solely by the speed
of the plane and heat is added by the burning fuel expanding the volume
of air expelled and producing thrust with no valves or moving parts.
True, the burning fuel also generates additional gas, but it would still
work using another heat source. As I said, every little bit helps.
>Cooling drag is cooling drag.
No, cooling drag can be reduced by better cooling system design. One of
the earliest examples is the NACA cowl. Placing a simple ring around the
outside of the cylinders on a radial engine dramatically reduced the
drag, even thought the cylinders were still fully exposed to the air
stream and the frontal area of the plane was actually increased. It also
improved the cooling.
> Linn ..... agrees, plenums are better for more efficient cooling.
How are you defining efficiency, if not by reduced drag? After all,
properly designed and carefully built baffled cowls do a perfectly
adequate job of cooling the engine. Sam James, designer of the "holy
cowl", has stated that most of the efficiency gain of the cowl is due to
the plenum that he uses with it.
What we are doing is trying to reduce drag by reducing pressure losses in
the cooling air. In addition to the pressure loss due to the increased
cross sectional area of the cowl interior compared to the inlet, the air
experiences further pressure loss when the cross sectional area decreases
as the air enters the space between the cylinders. It also loses
pressure each time it is forced to change direction. This even happens
in a smooth pipe elbow, but is much worse with all of the twists and
turns getting from the inlet to the cowl interior and then into the space
between the cylinders. Finally, it again loses pressure when it exits
back into the cowl.
The ideal plenum would maintain a constant cross-sectional area from the
inlet, through the spaces around the cylinders, and back through the
cowl toward the rear of the plane. It would minimize the number of turns
and make any necessary turns as smooth and of as large a radius as
possible
Jim Hasper - RV-7
Giving new meaning to the term "slow build" (See - I KNEW I shouldn't
have started this. Another evening spent punching keys instead of
pounding rivets)
Franklin, TN
Do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
I make pitot tubes for a living.
All of the pitot tubes have .030 to .035 dia. holes in
the lower aft side to drain watter.
Dale Mitchell
RV-8A MN wing
--- Ron Schreck <ronschreck@webkorner.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck"
> <ronschreck@webkorner.com>
>
> At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm
> wondering why the Dynon pitot tube has very small
> holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes
> through the outer tube. I was always under the
> impression that it was important to have no leaks in
> the pitot system and now I see that there is a leak
> "designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here?
> And don't they check the pitot system for leaks
> during the bi-annual pitot/static/transponder check?
>
>
> Ron Schreck
> Gold Hill NC. RV-8
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Simple Green, again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
The following statements are from the Simple Green consumers FAQ web
site:
http://consumer.simplegreen.com/cons_faqs.php
Many private and commercial aircraft owners and operators have cleaned
their craft with All-Purpose Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green for
many years. However, these products do not have Mil-Prf (military
testing) authority. The testing involves very long (168 hours in one
test) soaking of various metals in the solution and then a corrosion
inspection. If an aircraft owner only wants to use mil-prf approved
products; he will not want to use Simple Green.
Alkaline aqueous solutions are water-based mixtures with pH greater than
8. Most alkaline cleaners range from pH 10 to 14. Simple Green is an
aqueous-based cleaner with a pH of 9.3 to 9.5. Alkaline aqueous solutions
are the most common solutions in aqueous cleaning. Alkaline cleaners
often contain additives to improve cleaning, such as sequestering agents,
emulsifiers and surfactants. Rust inhibitors may be necessary with some
metals, especially aluminum.
Simple Green products have been successfully and safely used on aircraft,
automotive, industrial and consumer aluminum items for over 20 years.
However, caution and common sense must be used: Aluminum is a soft metal
that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to water. The aqueous-base
and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple Green can accelerate the
corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of All-Purpose Simple Green
and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or unpainted aluminum surfaces
should be kept as brief as the job will allow - never for more than 10
minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in smaller-area stages
to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning should always be
extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out cracks and
crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green residues.
Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple Green
products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to prevent
oxidation.
Jim Hasper - RV-7
Giving new meaning to the term "slow build"
Franklin, TN
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Spicer" <spike@spikesplace.org>
>
> I've heard of this problem before and am curious to read about it.
> Does
> anyone know of any online documentation or information on the
> issues
> with "simple green" and aluminum?
>
> -- John
Message 4
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| Subject: | Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I did not know that the heated version is available yet??? I spoke to Dynon
and they said their pitot tube was not designed to be air tight. It will not
hold presure but it works just fine, I have found both statements to be true
with 3 different dynon pitot.
John Furey
RV6A O-320
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
At the risk of being labeled a smarta$$....
Why don't you guys just call Dynon? Does it not make sense that they know
the answer since they make the pitot tube?
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Do not archive, do not quote fully in reply, do not waste bandwidth
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
--- j1j2h3@jujunoom wrote:
> Sorry, but it IS true. Any time that air is flowing
> through a passage
> way and the cross sectional area of the passage way
> increases or
> decreases there is a pressure loss. The amount of
> the pressure loss is
> dependent upon how abruptly the transition is made,
> but can never be
> eliminated entirely. This can be verified in any
> text book on fluid
> dynamics or handbook on heating and cooling duct
> design.
>
Actually, there are two things at work here...
A fluid moving from a small cross sesectionrea high
velocity flow to a large cross section area low
velocity area describes a classic diffuser.
Theoretically, when the fluid goes from the small area
high velocity region to the large area low velocity
region beBernoulli'saw tells us that the pressure will
INCREASE.
With that said, it is not always easy to build an
efficient diffuser, and an inefficient diffuser will
cause some some pressure loss. I think that one of
the benefits of the plenum cooling system VS the VANS
cooling system is that the plenum is a bit more
efefficients a diffuser.
SkSkylorRV-8 QB Under Construction
Fuselage in progress; Engine on order...
__________________________________
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Shortening Exhaust Pipes |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Thanks for all the experience and ideas. I'm going to look at replacing the lower
cowling hinges with screws or cam-locks rather than shortening the exhaust
pipes to provide hinge pin clearance. It's amazing how I focus on problems and
don't see all the options. I think it's a tendency to insist that anything
I've done is right. Since the hinge pins are in place & the job is done, I just
don't consider that it could be redone to remove a problem. That would mean
I made a mistake. So thanks everyone.
Do Not Archive
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: leather jacket restoration?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Don Diehl <diehldon@comcast.net>
>
> A friend has given me an old leather flying jacket. The leather is dry
> &
> stiff. Is there a preferred method of restoring the leather?
I have an old, leather jacket that I have treated with various products.
The best so far is Kiwi Mink Oil cheap and efffective
Available in the shoe care section of any supermarket or Wall Mart.
I find it smooths the cracks and wrinkles, restores color and makes the
jacket more pliable.
And it keeps the dog's paw pads in good condition.
A bit sticky immediately following application but by the next day the
jacket is good to go.
Do not archive.
Don Diehl
Bremerton WA
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: leather jacket restoration?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello Don,
If anyone knows leather restoration and proper care for leather it would be
the horse riding crowd. You should find all you need restoration information
and product wise at saddle maker shops and tack shops.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Diehl" <diehldon@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: leather jacket restoration??
> --> RV-List message posted by: Don Diehl <diehldon@comcast.net>
>
>>
>> A friend has given me an old leather flying jacket. The leather is dry
>> &
>> stiff. Is there a preferred method of restoring the leather?
>
> I have an old, leather jacket that I have treated with various products.
> The best so far is Kiwi Mink Oil cheap and efffective
> Available in the shoe care section of any supermarket or Wall Mart.
> I find it smooths the cracks and wrinkles, restores color and makes the
> jacket more pliable.
>
> And it keeps the dog's paw pads in good condition.
>
> A bit sticky immediately following application but by the next day the
> jacket is good to go.
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Don Diehl
> Bremerton WA
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Oil cooler fittings |
--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Scott
I have cooler on front left side 6A and had trouble with fittings and
getting the oil lines running where I wanted them.
I called the local Finning Tractor people who have mobile service units for
servicing hydraulics on Cats & front end loaders.
In the end I had them make up all my oil lines. They made up "U" shaped
heavy wall steel fittings to get the oil lines from cooler running in right
aft direction.
George in Langley BC
6A flying
7A wings
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I'm having trouble finding the right fittings for my oil cooler. I'm
moving it up in front on the left side. The problem I'm running into is
that the AN-whatever 90 degree fittings I had on the oil cooler
interfere with the lower cowling. If anyone else has their cooler
mounted in this position especially if it's in an RV-4, if you've seen a
good installation, or even if you have opinion on it I'd appreciate
suggestions! Thanks.
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
I've got the Van's pitot tube - just a bit of aluminum
tubing bent at a 90 degree angle.
Should I drill a little hole near the elbow?
Thanks,
Mickey
Dale Mitchell wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
>
> I make pitot tubes for a living.
> All of the pitot tubes have .030 to .035 dia. holes in
> the lower aft side to drain watter.
> Dale Mitchell
> RV-8A MN wing
>
> --- Ron Schreck <ronschreck@webkorner.com> wrote:
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck"
>><ronschreck@webkorner.com>
>>
>>At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm
>>wondering why the Dynon pitot tube has very small
>>holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes
>>through the outer tube. I was always under the
>>impression that it was important to have no leaks in
>>the pitot system and now I see that there is a leak
>>"designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here?
>>And don't they check the pitot system for leaks
>>during the bi-annual pitot/static/transponder check?
>>
>>
>>Ron Schreck
>>Gold Hill NC. RV-8
>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Bruce
Yes, as a general rule reduce the stress in all skins, otherwise it will be
trying to bow up/down between ribs or stiffeners.
Enduring a few days snow here in Langley!
George in Langley BC
6A flying
7A wings
--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Hi all,
Great weather we are having on the west coast. I have a question for you who
have been there done that.
All control surfaces up to now have you use the bend break to narrow the gap
and relieve the stress in the trailing edges after you have done your work
to the stiffeners and before final assembly. The flaps are all drilled and
apart for all the necessary tasks but the question to anyone that can answer
this is, "Do you bend the top flap skin trailing edge to meet the bottom
skin a little easier"?
The construction manual becomes more or less shorter and to the point as you
progress in the project so it does leave some questions.
Bruce Gray
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hello:
''' First happy New Year to all...''''
This will be the year for me...
I am ready to install the carpet, inside cockpit, but I have a problem
small, but ...I have installed a fire-prof inslation, between the angles
that hold floor...
The total thikness, of this material is about 3/16, lower than the
angles... sooo... what can I use to bring insulation to be flush with angles,
so when carpet is installed, will be, perfectly flush...
I appreciate suggestions, prefer, fire prof material...
Thanks
Bertrv6a
Do Not archive
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Thanks. I am off and running again.
Bruce
>From: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: FL-801PP-R/L
>Date: Sun, 09 Jan 2005 14:04:11 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>
>
>Hi Bruce
>
>Yes, as a general rule reduce the stress in all skins, otherwise it will be
>trying to bow up/down between ribs or stiffeners.
>Enduring a few days snow here in Langley!
>
>George in Langley BC
>6A flying
>7A wings
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi all,
>Great weather we are having on the west coast. I have a question for you
>who
>have been there done that.
>All control surfaces up to now have you use the bend break to narrow the
>gap
>and relieve the stress in the trailing edges after you have done your work
>to the stiffeners and before final assembly. The flaps are all drilled and
>apart for all the necessary tasks but the question to anyone that can
>answer
>this is, "Do you bend the top flap skin trailing edge to meet the bottom
>skin a little easier"?
>The construction manual becomes more or less shorter and to the point as
>you
>progress in the project so it does leave some questions.
>
>Bruce Gray
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Fuel Gauge VS PTT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I have a EI capacitance fuel gauge in my RV-8. Recently I noticed that the
indicators lights for the right side read empty when I key the PTT switch.
When I'm done transmitting, it returns to an accurate value. Cool, eh? Is
this likely a ground issue? When first powered on, the gauge does a self
test and will show OPEN if there is a ground issue, but mine passes the self
test. Has anyone else seen this?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen, RV-8 53.2 hours
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Looking for a Lycoming starter ring # 74414
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
Message 17
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| Subject: | RE:Please unsubscribe |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Baldwin" <n728p@hotmail.com>
Matt,
I have been on the RV list for several years and have found it to be very
enjoyable and very helpfull. During this time I have built , finished, and
flown our RV 6.I find I don't have the time I used to have to spend on line,
so I would like to unsubscribe from your list.
Thanks for all of the help you and everyone on the list have provided.
Regards,
Scott Baldwin
RV6 N728P
>From: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting]
>Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2005 00:02:03 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>
>Dear Lister,
>
>Please read over the RV-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
>RV-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
>following URL:
>
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV-List.FAQ.html
>
>Thank you,
>
>Matt Dralle
>Matronics Email List Administrator
>
>
>******************************************************************************
> RVSouthEast-List Usage Guidelines
>******************************************************************************
>
>The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the
>RVSouthEast-List.
>You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
>Failure to use the RVSouthEast-List in the manner described below may
>result
>in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
>
>
>RVSouthEast-List Policy Statement
>
>The purpose of the RVSouthEast-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
>things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
>are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
>high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
>among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
>requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
>the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
>
>
> - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
> posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
> lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
>
> - THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
> relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
>
> - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
> that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise
>and
> terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
> responses.
>
> - Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
> aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
> about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
> bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
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>
> - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
> easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
> web page or FAQ first.
>
> - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
> your response the same as that of the original post. This makes it
> easy to find threads in the archive.
>
> - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
> response. DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
> reader to the topic at hand, but be selective. The impact that
> quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive
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>
> - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
> then go ahead and reply to the List. Be aware that clicking the
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> your response with the original poster's email address.
>
> - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
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> agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
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>
> - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
> comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
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>
> - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
> polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
> other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
> controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
> will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
>
>-------
>
>
>[This is an automated posting.]
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Plenum closure (& CHT) |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/09/2005 6:33:20 AM Central Standard Time,
j1j2h3@juno.com writes:
The ideal plenum would maintain a constant cross-sectional area from the
inlet, through the spaces around the cylinders, and back through the
cowl toward the rear of the plane. It would minimize the number of turns
and make any necessary turns as smooth and of as large a radius as
possible
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Yo Jim - WASSUP!
Kinda like the meticulously engineered intake and exhaust systems honed to
the nth degree by engine gurus since Henry made an "A". My thinking exactly-
the challenge is all those nasty obstacles in the way, i.e. cylinders, pushrod
tubes etc. But then, even the intake/exhaust gurus run into a valve along the
way! 8-)
Jim Hasper - RV-7
Giving new meaning to the term "slow build" (See - I KNEW I shouldn't
have started this. Another evening spent punching keys instead of
pounding rivets)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Baloney- "I" started this, and if I can make the next chapter meet we'll just
duke it out!
Mark 8-) ps- 51PW is at the painters- Spent 3 hours usurping all final
assembly effort!
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Yo list-
Pulled my pants off this morning and my left wheel hub had some pretty
impressive crusty white stuff all around the outside half- (no, antibiotics didn't
help) -definate extreme corrosion- not over the whole surface, but sporadically
here and there over the entire surface like there was a lot of little "holes"
in the paint and the thing was sitting in a salt bath for a couple of years-
some of it had formed little clumps maybe 1/8" high! Yucchhh! Not seen on
the other three halves and no, I haven't been taxiing down Michigan Ave lately-
Anyone else seen this? Hazard to small children, mutated acorns or hard
landings? Defeckt?
I got fotoz if interested...
From The PossumWorks in TN (yeehah!)
Mark N51PW, -6A, 150 hours
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Vans Airtech Wingtip Lens Kit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
My RV6 kit came with the Standard Flat-Top Wingtips but I would like to
incorporate enclosed flush mount strobe and position lights like the newer
Sheared Wing Tips have. The Airtech Wingtip Lens Kit that Van's offers in
the Accessories Catalog looks like a possible solution.
Comments/suggestions from any one who has installed the Airtech lens kit
would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
JD
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Gauge VS PTT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
Larry, when I called EI about the same indications, they told me there was
a newer conversion module that did not have this problem. Give them a call.
You likely have the same issue. EI is No. 1 in my book.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@bowenaero.com>
Subject: RV-List: Fuel Gauge VS PTT
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
> I have a EI capacitance fuel gauge in my RV-8. Recently I noticed that
> the
> indicators lights for the right side read empty when I key the PTT switch.
> When I'm done transmitting, it returns to an accurate value. Cool, eh?
> Is
> this likely a ground issue? When first powered on, the gauge does a self
> test and will show OPEN if there is a ground issue, but mine passes the
> self
> test. Has anyone else seen this?
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: Hub corrosion |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
The wheel halves are magnesium, and therefore very prone to salt corrosion.
When my 6 was force-landed on a beach, I hosed everything down with
freshwater and then followed with a spray of ACF50.
A couple of months later, when I got around to removing the wheels for
inspection, the inner halves under the brake discs were completely eaten
away; I don't know how the wheels stayed together.
Luckily, Dresser or is it Desser? sells the individual halves.
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Hub corrosion
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> Yo list-
>
> Pulled my pants off this morning and my left wheel hub had some pretty
> impressive crusty white stuff all around the outside half- (no,
> antibiotics didn't
> help) -definate extreme corrosion- not over the whole surface, but
> sporadically
> here and there over the entire surface like there was a lot of little
> "holes"
> in the paint and the thing was sitting in a salt bath for a couple of
> years-
> some of it had formed little clumps maybe 1/8" high! Yucchhh! Not seen
> on
> the other three halves and no, I haven't been taxiing down Michigan Ave
> lately-
> Anyone else seen this? Hazard to small children, mutated acorns or hard
> landings? Defeckt?
>
> I got fotoz if interested...
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN (yeehah!)
> Mark N51PW, -6A, 150 hours
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Fuel Gauge VS PTT |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
Interesting. I have an EI engine monitor, and when I key the PTT the red
warning LED illuminates for the CHT and EGT windows and the numeric readings
change. Everything goes back to normal when I release the PTT. This has
been going on since I first flew 7 years ago. Someone opined that putting a
choke on the feed wires might help. I haven't been that bothered by it to
do anything, but I'd be interested to know if/how you fix it.
Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
RV6A 600+ hours
> I have a EI capacitance fuel gauge in my RV-8. Recently I
> noticed that the
> indicators lights for the right side read empty when I key the PTT switch.
> When I'm done transmitting, it returns to an accurate value.
> Cool, eh? Is
> this likely a ground issue? When first powered on, the gauge does a self
> test and will show OPEN if there is a ground issue, but mine
> passes the self
> test. Has anyone else seen this?
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Spicer" <spike@spikesplace.org>
Sure.
>I got fotoz if interested...
--
www.rivetbangers.com - A marriage of web & email. Building more than
RV's
www.spikesplace.org/cgi-php/serendipity - Build Log
--
---
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Hub corrosion |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/09/2005 9:01:52 PM Central Standard Time,
spike@spikesplace.org writes:
Sure.
>>>
Here ya go- nasty, eh?
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Mickey,
Probably not. My 'guess' is that without the heater, ice blockage of a
drilled Van's pitot tube passage might take place well forward of the area
at the "elbow" of the pitot tube.
Drilling a hole there would likely require some level of re-calibration if
the driven instruments .
I am hopeful that good piloting and decision making skills would preclude
you getting that far into such conditions as to test such a drilled pitot
tube.{[;-)
Fly safe,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon Pitot Tube Leak
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> I've got the Van's pitot tube - just a bit of aluminum
> tubing bent at a 90 degree angle.
>
> Should I drill a little hole near the elbow?
>
> Thanks,
> Mickey
>
> Dale Mitchell wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Dale Mitchell <dfm4290@yahoo.com>
>>
>> I make pitot tubes for a living.
>> All of the pitot tubes have .030 to .035 dia. holes in
>> the lower aft side to drain watter.
>> Dale Mitchell
>> RV-8A MN wing
>>
>> --- Ron Schreck <ronschreck@webkorner.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Schreck"
>>><ronschreck@webkorner.com>
>>>
>>>At the risk of showing my total ignorance I'm
>>>wondering why the Dynon pitot tube has very small
>>>holes punched into the aluminum tube where it passes
>>>through the outer tube. I was always under the
>>>impression that it was important to have no leaks in
>>>the pitot system and now I see that there is a leak
>>>"designed" into this pitot tube. What gives here?
>>>And don't they check the pitot system for leaks
>>>during the bi-annual pitot/static/transponder check?
>>>
>>>
>>>Ron Schreck
>>>Gold Hill NC. RV-8
>>>
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Wheel Pant Mounting Brackets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Taylor" <mtaylo17@msn.com>
Listers,
I hear of a lot of these things failing over time, and wanted to put on the
aftermarket stainless steel versions on our RV-7 from the outset. Anyone
remember where I can get a pair?
Thanks.
Mark
www.4sierratango.com
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Simple Green, again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Try http//.www.simplegreen.com/pdf/aircraft.pdf
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wheel Pant Mounting Brackets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
http://attawayair.com/
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | [ H.Ivan Haecker ] : New Email List Photo Share Available! |
--> RV-List message posted by: Email List Photo Shares <pictures@matronics.com>
A new Email List Photo Share is available:
Poster: H.Ivan Haecker <baremetl@gvtc.com>
Subject: Cabin Air Supply and Oil Cooler
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare/baremetl@gvtc.com.01.09.2005/index.html
o Main Photo Share Index
http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
o Submitting a Photo Share
If you wish to submit a Photo Share of your own, please include the
following information along with your email message and files:
1) Email List or Lists that they are related to:
2) Your Full Name:
3) Your Email Address:
4) One line Subject description:
5) Multi-line, multi-paragraph description of topic:
6) One-line Description of each photo or file:
Email the information above and your files and photos to:
pictures@matronics.com
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Simple Green, again. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mitch Faatz" <mitchf@skybound.com>
That link didn't work for me, but in case it saves somebody some time, here
is a snippet from their Q&A page:
...
"Aluminum is a soft metal that easily corrodes with unprotected exposure to
water. The aqueous-base and alkalinity of Simple Green or Crystal Simple
Green can accelerate the corrosion process. Therefore, contact times of
All-Purpose Simple Green and Crystal Simple Green with unprotected or
unpainted aluminum surfaces should be kept as brief as the job will allow -
never for more than 10 minutes. Large cleaning jobs should be conducted in
smaller-area stages to achieve lower contact time. Rinsing after cleaning
should always be extremely thorough - paying special attention to flush out
cracks and crevices to remove all Simple Green/Crystal Simple Green
residues. Unfinished, uncoated or unpainted aluminum cleaned with Simple
Green products should receive some sort of protectant after cleaning to
prevent oxidation."
(From http://consumer.simplegreen.com/cons_faqs.php)
Mitch Faatz RV-6A Finish Kit Auburn, CA
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Gauge VS PTT |
--> RV-List message posted by: Doug Gray <dgra1233@bigpond.net.au>
Where is your VHF antenna mounted?
Doug Gray
Ed Bundy wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Bundy" <edbundy@velocitus.net>
>
> Interesting. I have an EI engine monitor, and when I key the PTT the red
> warning LED illuminates for the CHT and EGT windows and the numeric readings
> change. Everything goes back to normal when I release the PTT. This has
> been going on since I first flew 7 years ago. Someone opined that putting a
> choke on the feed wires might help. I haven't been that bothered by it to
> do anything, but I'd be interested to know if/how you fix it.
>
> Ed Bundy - Eagle, Idaho
> RV6A 600+ hours
>
>
>
>>I have a EI capacitance fuel gauge in my RV-8. Recently I
>>noticed that the
>>indicators lights for the right side read empty when I key the PTT switch.
>>When I'm done transmitting, it returns to an accurate value.
>>Cool, eh? Is
>>this likely a ground issue? When first powered on, the gauge does a self
>>test and will show OPEN if there is a ground issue, but mine
>>passes the self
>>test. Has anyone else seen this?
>>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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