Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:39 AM - Re: Plenum Pics (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
2. 04:47 AM - Re: battery charging (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 04:56 AM - Re: battery charging (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 05:22 AM - Re: Plenum Pics (John Furey)
5. 05:34 AM - Re: Attaching flaps (Bob Collins)
6. 05:54 AM - Re: Now THIS is an idea! (David Paule)
7. 06:50 AM - Re: Now THIS is an idea! (Chris Brooks)
8. 07:45 AM - RV wing tip lenses (George Steube)
9. 08:23 AM - Double Sided Tape... (Bill VonDane)
10. 08:31 AM - Ed Sterba Prop (Ivan McLaws)
11. 08:42 AM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers)
12. 08:46 AM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (Scott Bilinski)
13. 09:05 AM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
14. 09:28 AM - Re: double countersunk rivnut (Evan and Megan Johnson)
15. 09:28 AM - Re: battery charging (Dave Mader)
16. 10:23 AM - Re: Ed Sterba Prop (Greg Milner)
17. 10:25 AM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (Hal Kempthorne)
18. 10:42 AM - Re: Ed Sterba Prop (REGAES@aol.com)
19. 10:55 AM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (linn walters)
20. 11:17 AM - Re: Ed Sterba Prop (Doug Rozendaal)
21. 11:34 AM - Re: Plenum Pics (separate individual plenums) ()
22. 11:44 AM - 12v blankets (Bill VonDane)
23. 11:48 AM - Re: battery charging ()
24. 11:50 AM - Re: Ed Sterba Prop (Jeff Point)
25. 12:14 PM - Re: Now THIS is an idea! (Michael Hilger)
26. 01:27 PM - -8A upper gear leg fairings... (Bill VonDane)
27. 01:46 PM - Re: -8A upper gear leg fairings... (Scott Bilinski)
28. 02:38 PM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... (Darwin N. Barrie)
29. 03:22 PM - Re: 12v blankets (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
30. 03:58 PM - Re: Ed Sterba Prop (Kosta Lewis)
31. 04:04 PM - Turbo Normalize (sportypilot@stx.rr.com)
32. 04:42 PM - Re: Ed Sterba Prop (Nels Hanson)
33. 04:57 PM - Re: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... (William Gill)
34. 05:11 PM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (Charlie England)
35. 05:18 PM - Re: Turbo Normalize (Randy Lervold)
36. 06:09 PM - Re: Turbo Normalize (sportypilot@stx.rr.com)
37. 06:55 PM - Re: five year RV8 report - gear bolting (John D. Heath)
38. 07:44 PM - Golf Clubs in RV-8 (Jim Cimino)
39. 07:47 PM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (Speed 3 Guy)
40. 08:32 PM - Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 (Dave Cordner)
41. 09:07 PM - Re: Double Sided Tape... (Bill Schlatterer)
42. 10:37 PM - AN Hose fittings/plenums (Wheeler North)
43. 11:05 PM - Pressure (Wheeler North)
44. 11:54 PM - smoking hole (Wheeler North)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/11/05 9:10:02 PM Central Standard Time, kathleen@rv7.us
writes:
> Does the absence of usual airflow over the crankcase drive oil temperatures
> up at all?
>>>>
Hi Kathleen-
My dual plenums are very similar to Johns, just lower toward the rear with
the tops installed with screws- oil temps stay between 175-190 degrees,
regulated when necessary (rarely) by a butterfly valve in my oil cooler inlet
(firewall mounted). This is on a 150hp Lycoming.
Fotos if interested.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/11/05 4:39:37 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net writes:
I don't know how dangerous leaving a lead acid battery on float charge
is, but I have read that if you do leave it on float charge you need to
be sure the charge voltage is no more than 13.8V for a 12V battery. Any
higher and it will damage the battery. That may be why the tractor
battery Dan Hopper mentioned had an untimely demise. For a cycle
charge, the charge voltage can be as high as 15V.
Chris,
You're absolutely right about the voltage limit for floating the battery. I
think the voltage varies with temperature -- being higher at lower
temperatures and visa-versa. But by limiting the voltage, the current will drop
to
almost zero and the loss of electrolyte will therefore drop dramatically. The
charger that I used (which is very common) was a simple transformer/rectifier
with no regulation. This type of charger will very likely eventually
over-voltage the battery.
Thanks for reminding me of that.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
Waiting for the runway to dry or freeze to go flying again.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/11/05 8:05:57 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
bdube@al.noaa.gov writes:
That is correct. An inexpensive "dumb" charger can go to too high
of a voltage. The float voltage is dependant on temperature, but Hawker
recommends 13.6 volts for their AGM batteries.
Bill,
Would not have made my previous post if I had read yours first. We said
about the same thing. You get the credit!
Do not archive.
Dan Hopper
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
My oil temps are so low I put a butterfly valve to cut off all the air and I
seldom see anything above 200 on the hotest days during climb.
John
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: Attaching flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
You can leave the skins unriveted and just clecoed, Greg, but the main
problem is getting the hinge, skin and flap brace to line up properly for
drilling. The flap brace is going to sag a bit and if you were to cleco it
too, then the hinge doesn't fit flush against the brace for drilling.
One solution is to squeeze a couple of temporary rivets attaching the flap
brace to the skin (I think I used just three...one in the middle and one
near -- but not exactly at -- each end. I'd use a very small rivet so that
the shop head is also quite small. And then it's easier to mount hinge and
clamp it in place. Then, after you drill all the holes ('cept for those
were the rivets are, of course, you can take the flap/hinge off....drill out
the temporary rivets...remount the assembly using clecoes this time and
drill out the holes where the temporary rivets were.
Bob
St. Paul
Time: 08:43:06 PM PST US
From: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Subject: RV-List: Attaching flaps
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Hi all, I'm just about ready to attach my flaps to the wings but I haven't
riveted
on the bottom skins yet. Is it necessary to rivet the bottom skins on first
to accurately drill the flap hinge or can I use a heap of clecoes on the
skin.
I'd prefer to leave the skins off for as long as possible so I can take
longer
to decide on wiring and also I haven't got my pitot tube yet (waiting for
the
heated Dynon). It would be good to drill it out now so I can get on with
the
countersinking dimpling etc. and then finally prime the flap brace etc. and
put
it on the shelf until I'm ready to rivet.
Also which kit has the NACA duct that is glued/riveted under the wing, it
would
be nice to put that on now before the skin is riveted on.
Greg
82070
RV8
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Now THIS is an idea! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Paule" <dpaule@frii.com>
Not all the sound comes in through the headset. Some of it comes in right
through your head.
Years ago I learned that I could hear a handheld radio in my noisy Skywagon
cockpit, without a headset, if I pressed the speaker to my chin, right
through my beard. I got the idea on an earlier flight, in the backseat of
another plane, when the top of my head intermittently touched the ceiling
and I heard lots of noise at those times.
Try pressing some part of your head to some part of the airframe next time
you go flying and you'll see.
Dave Paule
Boulder, CO
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Now THIS is an idea! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6@hotmail.com>
I think the $100 difference may be because the AuriComm doesn't mention a
Music/Cell phone interface.
Message 8
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| Subject: | RV wing tip lenses |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Steube" <at6c@bellsouth.net>
I am in the process of installing the wing tip lenses (VA-172) on my RV8 and
can't find much in the plans as to a recommended method. Any
recommendations? Thanks.
George
Message 9
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| Subject: | Double Sided Tape... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
...not the foam crap!
Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
-Bill VonDane
RV-8A - Colorado
www.rv8a.com
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
I'm about to test fly an RV-6A that were completing. Have an IO-360 which was
put together by B.A.P. and an Ed Sterba wood prop. I don't have the cash for
a constant speed prop yet but have never flown behind wood.
Question I have is to anyone that may have a wood prop or who has had one. How
are they? Anyone ever flown behind a prop by Sterba?
I live in Arizona so most of the year am not in the rain and the RV is hangared.
I'd appreciate any comments.
Ivan McLaws
Message 11
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| From: | "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net> |
| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net>
Bill,
We have some really good double faced tape to hold the placards we make. The
manufacturer states that the more heat and humidity the stronger it bonds.
It can be removed, but you'll have to work at it.
Send me your address and how much you want and I'll send some right out to
you.
Wayne Cahoon
Aircraft Engravers
(860) 653-2780
(860) 653-7324 Fax
http://www.engravers.net
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; "vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Double Sided Tape...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
There are numerous places that carry it. The good stuff IS EXPENSIVE, were
talking $50~75 per roll. The kind you are talking about is adhesive only. I
would try and find local distributors. McMaster-Carr has good stuff but not
adhesive only. A place called R.S. Hughes, carries it, closest place to you
is in Denver 303-371-9440. Just make sure your sitting down when they give
you the price.
Some of the tapes now days are amazing. I once say a strip of foam tape it
was 2 pieces stuck to itself. No matter how hard you pulled it would not
come apart
it would stretch 1/2 inch plus, and then go pack together, amazing stuff.
At 09:23 AM 1/12/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
>like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
>...not the foam crap!
>
>Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A - Colorado
>www.rv8a.com
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/12/05 10:24:50 AM Central Standard Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>>>>
Scotch VHB available from McMaster-Carr is available in .020 thickness- It's
foam, but pretty thin. This is some absolutely tenacious stuff- you better put
it exactly where you want it 'cause you pretty much have to cut/grind it off.
Not cheap, tho...
http://www.mcmaster.com/
Go to page 3205
Mark Phillips
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: double countersunk rivnut |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Not sure I understand what you are asking for here but sounds like you want
to dimple the rivet holes on a nutplate (countersunk screw type)....I just
stick them in my dimple die and give em a good hard whack with a steel
hammer. Works great, but is very hard on the dimple dies. I have a couple of
sets of them and just use my oldest set for this. I just did a bunch of them
last night for the countersunk screws on my wing inspection plates. All
installed and looking good.
Evan Johnson RV10 wings almost finished....
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: double countersunk rivnut
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> Does anyone make a rivnut that is both countersunk in the back to go in a
> dimpled hole and also countersunk on the face so you can attach an access
> plate that is dimpled with a countersunk screw? I was thinking of trying
to
> countersink a regular rivnut, but it doesn't look like there is near
enough
> material on the head to do this.
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | battery charging |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Actually, it's pretty easy to get a timer for week long cycles. Used to do
it for my
r.c. planes all the time. Just get two timers. The first one turns the
second one on
for a set amount of time and then the second one runs the charger. Do any
combo
you want and it works very well.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Chris W
Subject: Re: RV-List: battery charging
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W
<1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
>So I take it you would not recommend keeping a "float" type charger on
>whenever the plane is in the hangar?
>
>
Another option to float charging that is supposed to be better for the
battery, is to have the charger on a timer so it comes on for an hour a
day. Get to thinking about it, that is for NiCd's. Lead acid batteries
go a few weeks before there is much self discharge, where a NiCd self
discharges a significant amount in the first 24 hours. If you were
going to do that to a lead acid battery, an hour or 2 a week would
probably be plenty. Now the trick is finding a timer that lets you go
in week long cycles.
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg Milner" <tldrgred@execpc.com>
Ivan,
Ed Sterba is a good man and makes good props. I have two of his props and
have been using them for over 3yrs. A wood prop absorbs a lot of vibration
and smooths things out. For the money and looks I like wood.
Red Milner
RV-4 N79KM
based@UES
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ed Sterba Prop
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
>
> I'm about to test fly an RV-6A that were completing. Have an IO-360 which
was put together by B.A.P. and an Ed Sterba wood prop. I don't have the
cash for a constant speed prop yet but have never flown behind wood.
>
> Question I have is to anyone that may have a wood prop or who has had one.
How are they? Anyone ever flown behind a prop by Sterba?
>
> I live in Arizona so most of the year am not in the rain and the RV is
hangared.
>
> I'd appreciate any comments.
>
> Ivan McLaws
>
>
> _____________________________________________________
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Dan Parker demonstrated Scotch VHB tape to the Santa Clara CA chapter 6 or 7 years
ago. He made up some 'coupons' of aluminum about .020 thick. He made a few
using the tape to hold two skins together and a few using rivets. Pulling
on them, the riveted ones came apart first with the rivets tearing out.
I bought a roll I think about 50 feet for about $90. I've used it in a few places
on my RV6a with no problems in 170 hours. I was going to use it to stick
rudder skins to stiffeners but Van pointed out that flutter testing may need to
be redone so I didn't use it there. Had I been on to it earlier I would have
done seats, floors etc
When tape or glue is needed I tend to think that 3M Scotch is best.
hal
RV6a "Valentine" N7HK
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/12/05 10:24:50 AM Central Standard Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape...
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: REGAES@aol.com
I have flown with Ed and his props since the early 80's and his workmanship
has been outstanding. I built a Sonerai as did Ed and we put on many hours on
wood props. My RV4 has 241 hrs on a 68x74 and flys like a champ -- what else?
Good flying!
Clyde Seager
RV4 N28CS
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Bill VonDane wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
>like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
>...not the foam crap!
>
>Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
You might try a carpet place. Just a WAG! :-P
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A - Colorado
>www.rv8a.com
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Only a couple things to know about wood props:
1. Don't fly in the rain, and if do fly in the rain slow the rpm down as
much as possible or you will grind up the varnish and the wood.
Polyurethane leading edge inserts help, but they don't solve the problem.
2. Don't over torque the prop bolts, follow the manufacturers
recommendations for torque and retorque. and if you smell something like
burning paper, look for a fire on the ground. If you don't see one, you
better land, because your prop might be working loose.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
Subject: RV-List: Ed Sterba Prop
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
>
> I'm about to test fly an RV-6A that were completing. Have an IO-360 which
> was put together by B.A.P. and an Ed Sterba wood prop. I don't have the
> cash for a constant speed prop yet but have never flown behind wood.
>
> Question I have is to anyone that may have a wood prop or who has had one.
> How are they? Anyone ever flown behind a prop by Sterba?
>
> I live in Arizona so most of the year am not in the rain and the RV is
> hangared.
>
> I'd appreciate any comments.
>
> Ivan McLaws
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Plenum Pics (separate individual plenums) |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
John did nice work and there is no arguing with success.
However in the book:
Speed with Economy by Kent Paser, which chronicles the improvements on a Mustang
II over 20 years, taking it from about 180mph to something like +230mph on a
O-320,
Kent tried the separate individual L&R plenums and found a cooling imbalance between
the right and left bank, impart due to prop wash (in essence P-factor).
He went to the one piece plenum. With this change he gained speed and lowered
temps in the process. Get the book, worth it.
Further an article in EAA, Sport Aviation, about engine cooling and plenums, based
on a NASA report, concludes that more plenum volume improves cooling acting
as a reservoir.
Just another thought, John has a nice design. Even if there was a balance issue,
you could restrict the cool side inlet. John has good L&R balance anyway so
go figure. However, it proves a (good) plenum will cool well and be more efficient
than soft seals. The soft seals work but no matter how well you make them
they will leak more than a plenum. The above NASA reference found up to 50%
cooling leakage in GA aircraft and seals wear and get worse over time.
I think the plenum in someways is easier to install. I had seals on my RV-4; My
current RV-7 project will have a single volume plenum. The ease of plenum construction
for one cover vs. separate inner baffles is a factor.
Good work John.
Cheers, G
Message 22
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vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
they have a ton of these on ebay for like $20!
http://tinyurl.com/4mxey
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill VonDane
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
How about this heating blanket!?
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/12volheathea.html
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: Joel Harding
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
Another alternative for warming the GIB would be a 12 V heating pad. You could
sit on it, warm the tootsies one at a time, drape it over your head for that chilly
draft on the back of your neck, or just fold it up and use it for a pillow.
I could go on, but you get the idea. The down side is the extra cord floating
around the cabin, but for only forty bucks it might be worth a try. It's on
the same web page Dane mentioned, under Automotive Seat Heaters.
Joel Harding (Still waiting for the paint man to finish)
On Jan 3, 2005, at 6:57 AM, Dane Patterson wrote:
I ordered my rear seat heat kit from Sports Imports LTD.
http://www.sportsimportsltd.com/afcarseathea.html
A Two Element kit for the seat bottom and the seat back sells for about $130.00.
They work great for the back seat and my wife is very pleased with them.
I don't think they would work for the front seat. The elements are heating pads
which can be cut in length but not in width. The front seats on an RV-8 are
very narrow, so this could be a problem, unless you wrap the element around
the sides, and maybe the back? The elements go inside the cushion between the
foam seat cushion and the cover, so they aren't really visible. You might want
to order the kit and sent the elements to who ever makes up your seats. Oregon
Aero glues everything together when they make their seats, so if they can
incorporate the heating elements into the seats, it'll save you the trouble
of having to peal the seat covers off the cushions and re-glueing them back down.
Once you have all the drafts from leaking canopy skirts, etc. the electric elements
in the rear seats should provide all the heat necessary for your GIB.
They draw about 3 - 4 Amps until they are warm, and the thermostat cuts down
the current to about 1 - 2 Amps.
David Rogers wrote:
Dane,
Where'd you get them from ? What brand name are they ? details please.
Thanks,
Dave R.
RV-8, Fuselage
N173DR (reserved)
76 Grumman AA-1B/160hp N1649R
-----Original Message-----
From: Dane Patterson [mailto:DanePatterson@charter.net]
Sent: Sunday, December 12, 2004 6:35 PM
To: RV-8@yahoogroups.com
Subject: Re: [RV-8] back seat heat
I put electric seat heaters in the cushions of the back seat. My wife loves them.
Dane Patterson
On Dec 12, 2004, at 2:42 AM, n767rk wrote:
what have builders done in the past for heat to the back seat of an
RV 8. Ron Korn
=95 To visit your group on the web, go to:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/
=95 To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
RV-8-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Just to clarify the Battery Tender, Jr. is great to maintain, as the way you Gents
are using it. However, you can NOT fully charge a depleted battery, like an
Odyssey, with this kind of charger.
Per the manufactures recommendation this kind of charger should be use only on
a fully charged battery. The reason is the Battery Tender Jr. and similar chargers
do not have the current capacity to deep charge the battery. To fully charge
you need a higher amp charger.
Cheers G RV-4, RV-7 (project)
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I was in the same boat- not enough cash for a C/S. I ended up with a
Sterba. It is a good prop and very smooth. However if you do encounter
rain reduce RPM to 2000 or less or you'll sand blast the leading edges
clean off. Watch the CG with the light prop, you might look at a Landol
balancer ring.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Now THIS is an idea! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Hilger" <rvsixer@juno.com>
I bought one of those lightweight, in-the-ear passive headsets at Oshkosh
last year. It's called Clarity Aloft. You can see it at
http://www.clarityaloft.com. It really took me by surprise. This headset
also uses the EAR foam replaceable earpieces. Works great. I've tried
Lightspeed and Flightcom Denali ANR headsets and they can't attenuate the
frequencies of noise we get in our RV's without affecting intercom and comm
quality. I've never tried Bose ANRs which I've heard are well worth their
price. The Clarity Aloft is pretty spendy, too, at $700 list. I paid $499 at
Oshkosh which I think might be closer to what the market will bear.
Mike Hilger
RV-6 N207AM 650 hrs
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | -8A upper gear leg fairings... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Anyone have some good ideas / photos of how to attach the upper gear leg
fairings on an -8A?
-Bill
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: -8A upper gear leg fairings... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I split my fairings down the back side and bonded then on with goop. then
bonded the split together with goop. Goop is great because it can be worked
apart and will come off a surface by rubbing it. Of course I am making this
sound much easier than it is but there again how often do you plane to
remove the upper fairings? Oh, Goop can also be painted. Household Goop,
Plumbers Goop Marine Goop, all at Home Depot, and its all the same stuff
At 02:26 PM 1/12/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>Anyone have some good ideas / photos of how to attach the upper gear leg
>fairings on an -8A?
>
>-Bill
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 28
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<RV-8@yahoogroups.com>, <rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Bill,
If you have a good specialty auto paint and trim place in your area they
will have the stuff for auto trim. I have some and it is great but you've
only got one shot to get it right!!! If you don't have such a place let me
know and I'll pick it up for you.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; "vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape...
>
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
> Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research
Hospital's
> 'Thanks & Giving.'
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: 12v blankets |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
they have a ton of these on ebay for like $20!
http://tinyurl.com/4mxey
-Bill
Wow! And they all say they are for RVs too!
Do not archive.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
I have over 800 hours on a Bernie Warnke wood prop and it is wonderful
to fly behind. It is as smooth as they come, looks wonderful on the
ground and, after all those hours, still looks brand new.
I do have a Landol harmonic balancer with it. Wood doesn't have enough
inertia to keep things slowly winding down after shutdown. It always
gives me chest pain to see an engine "slam" to a stop with just the wood
prop on board. The balancer gives the engine more weight to swing into
and also puts your CG ahead. Nice combination.
Smoooooth.................
Rain: yes, it will beat up any prop, including metal. I throttle back to
2100 and have had no erosion problems.
I check prop bolt torque every oil change and after several months if
the oil isn't ready yet. I have found them rarely at the lower end of
the torque, never lose. Usually they are where they were when I checked
them last.
I keep the prop waxed with carnauba wax that keeps it slick, makes
taking bugs off a snap and keeps the water out and looking new.
Warnke props are the best looking in the business but he is not making
props in this plane of existence any more. Sterba is also a good bet.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: sportypilot@stx.rr.com
So who is the resident expert on turbocharging lycomings in an Rv ? I need
to ask some simple questions..
Danny..
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Ed Sterba Prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Nels Hanson <pa201950@yahoo.com>
777 hrs. on a 68 X 74 Sterba prop in front of 160
horses. All I do is use Carnuba wax,check the torque
every 3 months,and keep on flying. I have the dampener
installed and it is a smooth combination.
Also,Ed Sterba is about the easiest person in the
airplane world to work with and get along with. He
seems known as one who always goes the "extra mile". I
had a prop chewed up a little by the cowl pins.(my
fault) Sent it back to Ed,he worked on it,returned it
to me better than new in only a few days. Total
cost-$00.00
--- Ivan McLaws <toejam@cybertrails.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ivan McLaws"
> <toejam@cybertrails.com>
>
> I'm about to test fly an RV-6A that were completing.
> Have an IO-360 which was put together by B.A.P. and
> an Ed Sterba wood prop. I don't have the cash for a
> constant speed prop yet but have never flown behind
> wood.
>
> Question I have is to anyone that may have a wood
> prop or who has had one. How are they? Anyone ever
> flown behind a prop by Sterba?
>
> I live in Arizona so most of the year am not in the
> rain and the RV is hangared.
>
> I'd appreciate any comments.
>
> Ivan McLaws
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
Hello Bill,
I got some at Lowes or Home Depot. It's about 2" wide and was located in
the area where they sell carpet. Works great.
Bill Gill
RV-7 Fuse & Finish
Kansas City, MO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Darwin N.
Barrie
RV-8@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com
Subject: RV-List: Re: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Bill,
If you have a good specialty auto paint and trim place in your area they
will have the stuff for auto trim. I have some and it is great but
you've
only got one shot to get it right!!! If you don't have such a place let
me
know and I'll pick it up for you.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill VonDane" <bill@vondane.com>
<rv-list@matronics.com>; "vansairforce" <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: [VAF Mailing List] Double Sided Tape...
>
>
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just
looks
> like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick
GOOD!!!
> ...not the foam crap!
>
> Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
> -Bill VonDane
> RV-8A - Colorado
> www.rv8a.com
>
>
> Help save the life of a child. Support St. Jude Children's Research
Hospital's
> 'Thanks & Giving.'
> http://us.click.yahoo.com/6iY7fA/5WnJAA/Y3ZIAA/1yWplB/TM
>
> Online help on this group at:
> http://help.yahoo.com/help/groups/
>
>
> <*> To visit your group on the web, go to:
> http://groups.yahoo.com/group/vansairforce/
>
> <*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> vansairforce-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com
>
> http://docs.yahoo.com/info/terms/
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Bill VonDane wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
>
>I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
>like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
>...not the foam crap!
>
>Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
>
>
>-Bill VonDane
>RV-8A - Colorado
>www.rv8a.com
>
http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&q=3m+structural+adhesive+tape&btnG=Google+Search
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Turbo Normalize |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> So who is the resident expert on turbocharging lycomings in an Rv ? I
need to ask some simple questions..
If you're interested in turbocharging, or tubonormalizing, you really should
read the lastest version of the RVator. Good article by Ken Krueger.
Randy Lervold
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Turbo Normalize |
--> RV-List message posted by: sportypilot@stx.rr.com
Yeah I read that, thats what got me wondering.. :)
Danny
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Randy Lervold <randy@romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Turbo Normalize
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
>
> > So who is the resident expert on turbocharging lycomings in
> an Rv ? I
> need to ask some simple questions..
>
> If you're interested in turbocharging, or tubonormalizing, you
> really should
> read the lastest version of the RVator. Good article by Ken Krueger.
>
> Randy Lervold
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> =====================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: five year RV8 report - gear bolting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <alto_q@direcway.com>
Had a heck of a time finding these, MS21042 Reduced dimention nuts and as a
last resort Guess where I looked.
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/hapages/an363.php
I'm still in planing but when I get to this point in construction, I'll be
substituting MS21042 Nuts for the AN365 Nuts that are called out. They meet
the same MIL-Spec and are all metal self locking, CAD plated, etc. They
will allow a smaller standard socket and keep me from standing on my head
trying to see through the bottom of my bi-focals with sweat in my eyes. When
I was young enough to do that I didn't need the bi-focals anyway.
John
D.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: five year RV8 report - gear bolting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>>I just did this for the first time a couple days ago. The two outboard
>>bolts, actually the nuts inside the gearbox, are too crowded to get a
>>socket on them.
>
> Custom -8 landing gear tools!! Grind, cut, shave, weld... Then - swear
> and
> curse as you manage to get yourself wedged upside down into the bottom of
> the plane with your arm stuck in the gear tower; and seriously concerned
> about how you're going to get back out!! :)
>
> Bryan
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 38
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| Subject: | Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
Received-SPF: none
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
Message 39
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| Subject: | Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Speed 3 Guy" <speed3guy@comcast.net>
Do a search for "3M VHB" (Very High Bond). It's available in lots of
thicknesses from 2 mils on up. I work for in an adhesives group at on of
the national labs and we use this stuff all of the time. I did a quick web
search, here's one vendor.
http://www.uline.com/Group_240.asp?pricode=wi849&wcw=google
Good luck,
Guy
>
>I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape... The kind that just looks
>like a strip of glue when you peel the paper off, and really stick GOOD!!!
>...not the foam crap!
>
>Anyone have any leads on this stuff?
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Cordner" <davcor@comcast.net>
Check out this 6 mod from from Doug Reeve's site:
http://www.vansairforce.net/BuilderMods/NormanHunger/luggagecompartment_skirack.htm
I'm considering one of these:
http://www.travalite.com/
just an idea,
8's fuse is smaller, maybe a belly tank?
Dave Cordner
RV7A-2nd wing, fuse ordered
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Subject: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
>
> Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 SN 80039
> 150+ Hours
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Double Sided Tape... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Hal, do you happen to have the part number off the package. Thinking 4611
might be the right one.
Description from 3M. Strangely enough, I think I sell this stuff and never
thought about it.
3M VHB Tapes utilize high performance adhesives which have excellent
longterm holding power. VHB tapes have been used for many applications in
the construction industry, including the manufacture of architectural panels
for curtain walls and exterior building cladding.
VHB tapes are ideal for use in many interior and exterior industrial
applications. In many situations they can replace rivets, spot welds, liquid
adhesives, and other permanent fasteners. VHB tapes are also ideal for
bonding a variety of substrates, including most metals, sealed wood, glass,
many plastics, composites and painted surfaces.
See this link>
http://multimedia.mmm.com/mws/mediawebserver.dyn?7777771amfi7oYv7HYv777OkuFR
uuuuT-
Linn, if 4611 is the right thing, I will check and see what our cost is on
it. Got to be able to beat $90.
Bill Schlatterer
7a qb/fuse
Arkansas
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Hal Kempthorne
Subject: Re: RV-List: Double Sided Tape...
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
Dan Parker demonstrated Scotch VHB tape to the Santa Clara CA chapter 6 or 7
years ago. He made up some 'coupons' of aluminum about .020 thick. He made
a few using the tape to hold two skins together and a few using rivets.
Pulling on them, the riveted ones came apart first with the rivets tearing
out.
I bought a roll I think about 50 feet for about $90. I've used it in a few
places on my RV6a with no problems in 170 hours. I was going to use it to
stick rudder skins to stiffeners but Van pointed out that flutter testing
may need to be redone so I didn't use it there. Had I been on to it earlier
I would have done seats, floors etc
When tape or glue is needed I tend to think that 3M Scotch is best.
hal
RV6a "Valentine" N7HK
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/12/05 10:24:50 AM Central Standard Time,
bill@vondane.com writes:
> I am looking for some GOOD double sided tape...
Message 42
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
| Subject: | AN Hose fittings/plenums |
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
non-swaged AN hose fittings were designed by AN spec to be reused.
AC 43.13-1B has some info in this regard as does AC 65-9A and or -15A.
That said, if they have seen a fire don't reuse them. Never install them
without a mandrel. Visually ensure that no flap has been cut inside, and
pressure test them as appropriate.
item two
Somewhere I remember someone saying that pressure flow in/around complex
shapes works better if there is a pressure reservior of sufficient size
around the complex shape??? For this reason I made my plenum as large as
possible. The main reason I made a plenum was that there is a history of
the lower hinges getting torn out, so it seemed like the extra force pushing
up on the cowl could be reduced with a plenum.
One thought I have had is to play with was the lower baffle outlet sizes.
Not yet clear in my head on how to easily play with this, but it would be
interesting to see if one could balance CHTs from this.
RE comment on engine ops without a plenum,,, Don't do it for long or at high
power. We run engines on test stands all the time, and they will get nicely
ruin't if the student's forget the plenum install prior to a run. The
cylinders seem to do alright, but there are places on the cyl heads that
really get toasty...
W
Message 43
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
Foretunately static pressure in a diverging duct will increase, and in a
converging duct will decrease. Otherwise our friendly high volume turbine
relatives would not work so very well.
On the other hand, I do believe that anytime you change the shape, size, or
turn the flow in a duct you will lose a small amount of dynamic pressure,
which is converted into heat via turbulence and friction.
But then static pressure and dynamic pressure are not the same thing, yet
are often either confused or mis-stated thereby leading to confusion.
W
Message 44
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"'owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com '"@matronics.com
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us>
<<<<<<< A lead-acid battery won't generate gas until the last portion
of
the charge. It must reach "gassing voltage" which is a bit over 13 volts.
Thus, the highest risk for explosion is a battery that is just become fully
charged.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Although I have read this to be true, and experienced it everytime I have
ever charged a battery, interestingly enough the three times I've seen a
normal lead acid battery explode they were mostly dead, and had been fast
charging at about 100 amps for less then 15 minutes. That said, in two of
the cases, I was looking in the general direction of the explosion and did
not see any flash, nor was there any evidence of heat damage, so I have
always assumed they were pressure explosions not combustion explosions.
I have also never seen an AGM blow, but mine does tend to get very warm if
charged higher then 14.2V. They say they can't do boom. I don't care what
they say. When I have seen batteries blow, I was more than 20 feet away, in
one case I had a wall between myself and the battery, and I couldn't hear
for a while due to the strength of the concussion. And in the one that was
installed in a car the hood was torn partly off even though it was open at
the time of failure. There is no way this is worth testing inside my
airplane.
(On an interesting side note, after that failure, I went outside to inspect
the damage, and while viewing the wreckage the not-so-light top of the
battery came wafting back to earth at a significant Gallelain velocity. Next
time this happens I'm thinking of sending Mike Neville off to fetch the top
before it hurts anybody.)
RE trickle/float chargers, I used to believe in these until I had an
experience similar to Dan's where I returned to find a smoking hole in the
battery bench. The charger had gone nuts, fused its circuit protection into
a lovely conductive circuit, along with its regulator and then proceeded to
gag that poor battery with electrons until it did Richard Pryor imitations.
I no longer leave batteries charging unattended.
W
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