Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:15 AM - Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
2. 03:37 AM - Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
3. 06:18 AM - Re: AN Hose fittings/plenums (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
4. 06:27 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (DWENSING@aol.com)
5. 06:42 AM - Re: smoking hole (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
6. 07:38 AM - Long overdue site update (Patrick Kelley)
7. 07:53 AM - Battery Chargers (Tony Marshall)
8. 08:23 AM - Re: smoking hole (Richard Tasker)
9. 08:26 AM - Re: smoking hole (Dan Checkoway)
10. 08:36 AM - Bouncing (BRUCE GRAY)
11. 09:10 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Charles Rowbotham)
12. 09:25 AM - Re: Bouncing (Bobby Hester)
13. 09:52 AM - Re: Battery Chargers (linn walters)
14. 10:10 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports ()
15. 10:42 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Maureen & Bob Christensen)
16. 11:06 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Scott Jackson)
17. 11:12 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Larry Bowen)
18. 11:29 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Ed Holyoke)
19. 12:03 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Maureen & Bob Christensen)
20. 12:12 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Larry Bowen)
21. 12:27 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Doug Weiler)
22. 03:05 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Dane Sheahen)
23. 03:50 PM - Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 (Jim Cimino)
24. 03:53 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Mike Ducote)
25. 04:16 PM - Handheld nav/com radio (LML Klingmuller)
26. 04:21 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Larry Bowen)
27. 04:23 PM - aluminum panel finish (Wayne Pedersen)
28. 04:28 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Stein Bruch)
29. 04:39 PM - Re: smoking hole (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
30. 04:40 PM - Re: Battery Chargers (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
31. 04:43 PM - Re: aluminum panel finish (linn walters)
32. 04:54 PM - Re: Battery Chargers (Terry Watson)
33. 05:01 PM - Re: Battery Chargers (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
34. 05:10 PM - Oil cooler attached to engine mount (D. Jones)
35. 05:26 PM - Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
36. 05:26 PM - Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
37. 05:44 PM - Re: aluminum panel finish (David Burton)
38. 05:52 PM - Oil cooler flanges cracking revisited (Jeff Point)
39. 06:02 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (DWENSING@aol.com)
40. 06:13 PM - Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 ()
41. 06:29 PM - RV-9A kit (Curt)
42. 06:32 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Paul Besing)
43. 06:46 PM - Re: aluminum panel finish (Charlie Kuss)
44. 06:54 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (DWENSING@aol.com)
45. 06:57 PM - Re: RV-9A kit (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
46. 07:07 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Evan and Megan Johnson)
47. 07:52 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (James Freeman)
48. 07:52 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Paul Besing)
49. 08:28 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Bill Schlatterer)
50. 08:38 PM - Re: aluminum panel finish (Vanremog@aol.com)
51. 08:40 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Vanremog@aol.com)
52. 08:52 PM - Re: Handheld nav/com radio (Mark Grieve)
53. 08:58 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Mike Nellis)
54. 09:06 PM - Re: battery charging (Vanremog@aol.com)
55. 09:22 PM - Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 (Jeff Dowling)
56. 09:34 PM - Re: Handheld nav/com radio clamav-milter version 0.80j on localhost (JOHN STARN)
57. 09:48 PM - Re: aluminum panel finish (Blair Amundsen)
58. 10:33 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Dennis Parker)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures or files
area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear fuselage.
if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most likely can't view
them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was the case.
what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs&.src=gr&.dnm=clubs2.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
>
> Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 SN 80039
> 150+ Hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures or files
area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear fuselage. if
you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most likely can't view
them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was the case.
what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=clubs2.jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <JCIMINO@ECHOES.NET>
Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
ww.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
Message 2
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| Subject: | Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Lucky thanks for the link.
That is damn cool.
Thank goodness I don't play golf or Id be spending another couple weeks
on another doo dad for the 8.
Whew!
Course I am a skier. Those look an awful lot like ski racks to me.
Very cool. Hmmm....
Mike
S8
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: Re: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the
pictures or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in
the rear fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that
group you most likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute
to join if that was the case.
what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs&.src=gr&.
dnm=clubs2.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8
/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
>
> Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the
RV-8?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 SN 80039
> 150+ Hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the
pictures or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in
the rear fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group
you most likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join
if that was the case.
what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dn
m=clubs2.jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst
%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <JCIMINO@ECHOES.NET>
Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the
RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
ww.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: AN Hose fittings/plenums |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/05 3:17:06 AM Central Standard Time,
wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
> RE comment on engine ops without a plenum,,, Don't do it for long or at
> high
> power. We run engines on test stands all the time, and they will get nicely
> ruin't if the student's forget the plenum install prior to a run.
>>>>
Hi Wheeler-
What provides the airflow through the plenum on the test stand? I can't
imagine much airflow from the prop roots, or do test clubs have a special profile
here?
Mark do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives, didn't find
specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: smoking hole |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/05 2:55:21 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
RE trickle/float chargers, I used to believe in these until I had an
experience similar to Dan's where I returned to find a smoking hole in the
battery bench. The charger had gone nuts, fused its circuit protection into
a lovely conductive circuit, along with its regulator and then proceeded to
gag that poor battery with electrons until it did Richard Pryor imitations.
I no longer leave batteries charging unattended.
W
W,
Like I said, "It makes a believer out of you!"
Do not archive.
Dan
Message 6
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|
| Subject: | Long overdue site update |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
For those of you still interested in my RV-6A web site (and let me humbly
say that it's nowhere near the quality of Dan Checkoway's), I have finally
gotten around to updating it. There are several new chapters mostly
covering the bottom fuselage skins and some of the interior. Enjoy. Oh,
it's at http://www.flion.com/rv6a/Default.htm.
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - fabricating seats
Message 7
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| Subject: | Battery Chargers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
I noticed this thread the other day, but have not studied all postings. I
have seen postings stating voltage limitations, etc, but havent seen
anything that recommended a specific charger. Living in the NW where we do
experience long periods of weather unsuitable for VFR flight, I would like
to find a charger that would trickle for long periods. Anything come to
mind?
Additionally, are any RVers using remote batter connectors.....to keep from
having to dig to the battery to charge it?
Thanks for any help.
Tony Marshall
RV6 N91CM
Polson, MT
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: smoking hole |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
Wheeler North wrote:
>Although I have read this to be true, and experienced it everytime I have
>ever charged a battery, interestingly enough the three times I've seen a
>normal lead acid battery explode they were mostly dead, and had been fast
>charging at about 100 amps for less then 15 minutes. That said, in two of
>the cases, I was looking in the general direction of the explosion and did
>not see any flash, nor was there any evidence of heat damage, so I have
>always assumed they were pressure explosions not combustion explosions.
>
>
You won't see an explosion of the battery as a flash because it is
caused by the hydrogen and oxygen which combine colorlessly. Your
explosion was probably caused by the mixture, probably under some
pressure, igniting.
I had this occur on my BMW motorcycle once (flooded battery). It was on
a charger for a while then sitting a bit. When I rolled it out of the
garage and tried to start it, the battery exploded. Fortunately, the
battery is not very large and is pretty much shrouded so I still have my
manhood, although there was acid all over the place. I was a little
surprised :-) .
Dick Tasker
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: smoking hole |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Don't most/some trickle chargers come with inline fuses? FWIW, my Battery
Tender Jr. has an inline 3A automotive style fuse. The clip-on connector
doesn't have it, but the ring terminal connector does. Seems to me having a
fuse in there is critical if you plan on leaving a charger unattended.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: smoking hole
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 1/13/05 2:55:21 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> wnorth@sdccd.cc.ca.us writes:
>
> RE trickle/float chargers, I used to believe in these until I had an
> experience similar to Dan's where I returned to find a smoking hole in
the
> battery bench. The charger had gone nuts, fused its circuit protection
into
> a lovely conductive circuit, along with its regulator and then proceeded
to
> gag that poor battery with electrons until it did Richard Pryor
imitations.
> I no longer leave batteries charging unattended.
>
> W
>
>
> W,
> Like I said, "It makes a believer out of you!"
>
> Do not archive.
>
> Dan
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Sometimes this internet thing is a life saver and then it can be a real
pain!
I just wanted to know is there a way to prevent your Yahoo account from
bouncing? It works great for a couple weeks or months then I get a post that
I have been "Reactivated".
Why did I start getting bounced if I had not changed my settings and check
into the groups frequently? Puzzling?
I guess the end result is that I get reactivated to continue to view
messages and discuss issues that come up in the construction.
Thanks for listening(reading),
Bruce G.
RV8 Wings
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we have
the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
rivets.
Chuck Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: DWENSING@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>didn't find
>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A N118DE
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
> To: RV-List@matronics.com
> Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 08:34 (CDT)
> Subject: RV-List: Bouncing
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
>
> Sometimes this internet thing is a life saver and then it can be a real
> pain!
> I just wanted to know is there a way to prevent your Yahoo account from
> bouncing? It works great for a couple weeks or months then I get a post that
> I have been "Reactivated".
> Why did I start getting bounced if I had not changed my settings and check
> into the groups frequently? Puzzling?
> I guess the end result is that I get reactivated to continue to view
> messages and discuss issues that come up in the construction.
> Thanks for listening(reading),
> Bruce G.
> RV8 Wings
>
Does your internet provider have any type of spam blocker? If it does it might
block a message from the yahoo group by accident and cause the yahoo group to
start bouncing. Mine has a blocker and it also has a area that you can goto to
list addresses that you do not ever want it to block. I use to get bounces alot.
I don't get bounced any more and I think it might be because I did this.
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Battery Chargers |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Tony Marshall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>
>I noticed this thread the other day, but have not studied all postings. I
>have seen postings stating voltage limitations, etc, but havent seen
>anything that recommended a specific charger.
>
Not a recommendation .... because I don't know the long term effects
..... but I use a little trickle charger from Harbor Freight. Actually,
I have three in use ..... two on aircraft and one on my 12V fuel pump
.... for auto fuel. So far, so good. 2 years on a gel cell in my Pitts
and I just put a new Gill in a Traumahawk ..... previous time unknown.
Linn
do not archive
> Living in the NW where we do
>experience long periods of weather unsuitable for VFR flight, I would like
>to find a charger that would trickle for long periods. Anything come to
>mind?
>
>Additionally, are any RVers using remote batter connectors.....to keep from
>having to dig to the battery to charge it?
>
>Thanks for any help.
>
>Tony Marshall
>RV6 N91CM
>Polson, MT
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Chuck,
I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before paint or
riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the face. This
allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after priming and painting
them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not protrude very far anymore.
I removed another .030" and now they are fine. Anyone else who bought these,
consider removing .060" off the face of the port to allow it to protrude farther
from the tailcone side skin.
Charlie Kuss
---- Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham@hotmail.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>
> We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
> painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we have
> the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
> rivets.
>
> Chuck Rowbotham
> RV-8A
>
> >From: DWENSING@aol.com
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >
> >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
> >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
> >didn't find
> >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
> >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
> >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
> >Dale Ensing
> >RV6A N118DE
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying yet?!
But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the way
they are??
Thanks,
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Chuck,
> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before
paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the
face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not
protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are fine.
Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of the
port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> ---- Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham@hotmail.com> wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
<crowbotham@hotmail.com>
> >
> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
have
> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
> > rivets.
> >
> > Chuck Rowbotham
> > RV-8A
> >
> > >From: DWENSING@aol.com
> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> > >
> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
error
> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
> > >didn't find
> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering
if
> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
> > >Dale Ensing
> > >RV6A N118DE
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
I agree: I don't understand this thread.
I thought all static ports were supposed to be as flush as possible to get
the best signal...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen"
> <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
>
> Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying yet?!
> But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the way
> they are??
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>>
>> Chuck,
>> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before
> paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the
> face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not
> protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are fine.
> Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of the
> port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> ---- Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
> <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>> >
>> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
>> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
> have
>> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
>> > Van's
>> > rivets.
>> >
>> > Chuck Rowbotham
>> > RV-8A
>> >
>> > >From: DWENSING@aol.com
>> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> > >To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> > >
>> > >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>> > >
>> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
> error
>> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>> > >didn't find
>> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
>> > >wondering
> if
>> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> > >Dale Ensing
>> > >RV6A N118DE
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Another option. Expensive, but ready-made:
http://bowenaero.com/mt3/archives/2002/02/static_ports.html
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
chaztuna@adelphia.net said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Chuck,
> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before
> paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the
> face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not
> protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are fine.
> Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of the
> port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
> Charlie Kuss
>
> ---- Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
>> <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>>
>> We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
>> painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
>> have
>> the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
>> rivets.
>>
>> Chuck Rowbotham
>> RV-8A
>>
>> >From: DWENSING@aol.com
>> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> >
>> >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>> >
>> >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
>> error
>> >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>> >didn't find
>> >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering
>> if
>> >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> >Dale Ensing
>> >RV6A N118DE
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
I have heard that there are errors associated with flush ports, perhaps
it tends to create a little vacuum in the port. I've heard that people
have built up little dams in front of ports to alleviate this, perhaps
by creating a little local turbulence. All of this is hearsay and worth
everything you paid for it.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Jackson
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
I agree: I don't understand this thread.
I thought all static ports were supposed to be as flush as possible to
get
the best signal...
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen"
> <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
>
> Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying
yet?!
> But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the
way
> they are??
>
> Thanks,
> Bob
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>>
>> Chuck,
>> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem
before
> paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off
the
> face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did
not
> protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are
fine.
> Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of
the
> port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> ---- Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
> <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>> >
>> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they
with
>> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately
we
> have
>> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
>> > Van's
>> > rivets.
>> >
>> > Chuck Rowbotham
>> > RV-8A
>> >
>> > >From: DWENSING@aol.com
>> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> > >To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> > >
>> > >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>> > >
>> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed
indicator
> error
>> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched
archives,
>> > >didn't find
>> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
>> > >wondering
> if
>> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> > >Dale Ensing
>> > >RV6A N118DE
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
I'm not a engineer . . . but this is what I thought I understood?
It's a static vent or drain . . . they are flush on many spam cans?!
The designer (Van's) should have place them (on the drawing) in an area
where the pressure is as "neutral" as possible?!
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> I have heard that there are errors associated with flush ports, perhaps
> it tends to create a little vacuum in the port. I've heard that people
> have built up little dams in front of ports to alleviate this, perhaps
> by creating a little local turbulence. All of this is hearsay and worth
> everything you paid for it.
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Jackson
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
>
> I agree: I don't understand this thread.
> I thought all static ports were supposed to be as flush as possible to
> get
> the best signal...
> Scott in Vancouver
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen"
> > <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
> >
> > Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying
> yet?!
> > But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the
> way
> > they are??
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Bob
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> >
> >
> >> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> >>
> >> Chuck,
> >> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem
> before
> > paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off
> the
> > face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> > priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did
> not
> > protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are
> fine.
> > Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of
> the
> > port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
> >> Charlie Kuss
> >>
> >> ---- Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham@hotmail.com> wrote:
> >> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
> > <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
> >> >
> >> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they
> with
> >> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately
> we
> > have
> >> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
> >> > Van's
> >> > rivets.
> >> >
> >> > Chuck Rowbotham
> >> > RV-8A
> >> >
> >> > >From: DWENSING@aol.com
> >> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >> > >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> >> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
> >> > >
> >> > >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >> > >
> >> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed
> indicator
> > error
> >> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched
> archives,
> >> > >didn't find
> >> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
> >> > >wondering
> > if
> >> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
> >> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
> >> > >Dale Ensing
> >> > >RV6A N118DE
> >> > >
> >> > >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >>
> >>
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I thought is was about breaching the boundry layer. That could be B5 tho...
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Maureen & Bob Christensen said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen"
> <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
>
>
> I'm not a engineer . . . but this is what I thought I understood?
>
> It's a static vent or drain . . . they are flush on many spam cans?!
>
> The designer (Van's) should have place them (on the drawing) in an area
> where the pressure is as "neutral" as possible?!
>
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>>
>> I have heard that there are errors associated with flush ports, perhaps
>> it tends to create a little vacuum in the port. I've heard that people
>> have built up little dams in front of ports to alleviate this, perhaps
>> by creating a little local turbulence. All of this is hearsay and worth
>> everything you paid for it.
>>
>> Ed Holyoke
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott Jackson
>> To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
>>
>> I agree: I don't understand this thread.
>> I thought all static ports were supposed to be as flush as possible to
>> get
>> the best signal...
>> Scott in Vancouver
>> ----- Original Message -----
>> From: "Maureen & Bob Christensen" <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
>> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>>
>>
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Maureen & Bob Christensen"
>> > <mchriste@danvilletelco.net>
>> >
>> > Why do they need to protrude . . . mine are flush . . . not flying
>> yet?!
>> > But, the turtle back is on and there plumbed so will probably stay the
>> way
>> > they are??
>> >
>> > Thanks,
>> > Bob
>> >
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message -----
>> > From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> >
>> >
>> >> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>> >>
>> >> Chuck,
>> >> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem
>> before
>> > paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off
>> the
>> > face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
>> > priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did
>> not
>> > protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are
>> fine.
>> > Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of
>> the
>> > port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
>> >> Charlie Kuss
>> >>
>> >> ---- Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> >> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
>> > <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>> >> >
>> >> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they
>> with
>> >> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately
>> we
>> > have
>> >> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
>> >> > Van's
>> >> > rivets.
>> >> >
>> >> > Chuck Rowbotham
>> >> > RV-8A
>> >> >
>> >> > >From: DWENSING@aol.com
>> >> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> >> > >To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> >> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> >> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> >> > >
>> >> > >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>> >> > >
>> >> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed
>> indicator
>> > error
>> >> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched
>> archives,
>> >> > >didn't find
>> >> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
>> >> > >wondering
>> > if
>> >> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> >> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> >> > >Dale Ensing
>> >> > >RV6A N118DE
>> >> > >
>> >> > >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >> >
>> >>
>> >>
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dcw@nomadwi.com>
I used Van's low-tech pop rivet static ports and my a/s and altimeter
readings are dead accurate.
Doug Weiler
N722DW
RV-4, 160 hours
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>>
>> Chuck,
>> I bought the Cleavelands as well. I noticed the "flush" problem before
> paint or riveting. I chucked them up in a lathe and removed .030" off the
> face. This allowed them to protrude into the airstream. However, after
> priming and painting them (prior to riveting) I noted that they did not
> protrude very far anymore. I removed another .030" and now they are fine.
> Anyone else who bought these, consider removing .060" off the face of the
> port to allow it to protrude farther from the tailcone side skin.
>> Charlie Kuss
>>
>> ---- Charles Rowbotham <crowbotham@hotmail.com> wrote:
>> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
> <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>> >
>> > We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
>> > painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
> have
>> > the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with
>> > Van's
>> > rivets.
>> >
>> > Chuck Rowbotham
>> > RV-8A
>> >
>> > >From: DWENSING@aol.com
>> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> > >To: rv-list@matronics.com
>> > >Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>> > >Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>> > >
>> > >--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>> > >
>> > >I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
> error
>> > >using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>> > >didn't find
>> > >specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and
>> > >wondering
> if
>> > >the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>> > >Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>> > >Dale Ensing
>> > >RV6A N118DE
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
Dale
I am having the same problem with my static system. Speed reads low and
altitude is off in the air. Waukegan Avionics shop tested the system on the
ground and it checks out fine. I believe it is sucking out just a little
air. Opening the alt static port corrects some of the problem. I did find
two cracks in the tubing near the barbed fittings, so I replaced every bit
of line and tossed out those barbed fittings. Things got worse? I believed
the leak near the blind encoder compensated for the little bit of suction.
I believe this all started after painting. There is a tiny little
depression around Cleveland Static Ports caused by the paint. My plan is to
find a heated Piper pitot mast with a static port built in.
Anyone have a better idea?
Dane Sheahen
N838RV RV8a
>From: DWENSING@aol.com
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>didn't find
>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A N118DE
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Lucky,
I can't get anywhere with this link. What is the name of the group?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <luckymacy@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
> --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
>
> i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
the case.
>
> what the heck, found the link for you.
>
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs&.src=gr&.dnm=clubs2.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
> >
> > Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
> >
> > Jim Cimino
> > RV-8 SN 80039
> > 150+ Hours
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
> i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
the case.
>
> what the heck, found the link for you.
>
>
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=clubs2.jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
>
> -------------- Original message --------------
>
> -- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <JCIMINO@ECHOES.NET>
>
> Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 SN 80039
> 150+ Hours
>
>
> ww.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
>
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Ducote" <mikejd1@cox.net>
Drill the port out to .030 and insert Van's pop rivet?
Mike Ducote
N63PM RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
>
> Dale
> I am having the same problem with my static system. Speed reads low and
> altitude is off in the air. Waukegan Avionics shop tested the system on
the
> ground and it checks out fine. I believe it is sucking out just a little
> air. Opening the alt static port corrects some of the problem. I did
find
> two cracks in the tubing near the barbed fittings, so I replaced every bit
> of line and tossed out those barbed fittings. Things got worse? I
believed
> the leak near the blind encoder compensated for the little bit of suction.
> I believe this all started after painting. There is a tiny little
> depression around Cleveland Static Ports caused by the paint. My plan is
to
> find a heated Piper pitot mast with a static port built in.
>
> Anyone have a better idea?
>
> Dane Sheahen
> N838RV RV8a
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Handheld nav/com radio |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
I am thinking of buying a backup hand held radio with the VOR option similar to
the SP-200A model sold by Sporty's.
My questions are 1) would the unit work with the short flexible antenna attached
to the unit or would the radio require an antenna connector to the airplanes
com antenna? 2) is Sporty the best on the market for $299 with the VOR option?
and 3) can I just plug my headset in case the radio goes blank and still have
good communications?
Some of the utralight seem to use these units. Some are louse when transmitting
(lots of background noise) while others seem to be acceptable.
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Glue a dome from a rivet or whatever onto the flush static port. If nothing
else it might help isolate the problem.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Mike Ducote [mailto:mikejd1@cox.net]
> Sent: Thursday, January 13, 2005 6:52 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Ducote" <mikejd1@cox.net>
>
> Drill the port out to .030 and insert Van's pop rivet?
>
> Mike Ducote
> N63PM RV6
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
> >
> > Dale
> > I am having the same problem with my static system. Speed
> reads low and
> > altitude is off in the air. Waukegan Avionics shop tested
> the system on
> the
> > ground and it checks out fine. I believe it is sucking out
> just a little
> > air. Opening the alt static port corrects some of the
> problem. I did
> find
> > two cracks in the tubing near the barbed fittings, so I
> replaced every bit
> > of line and tossed out those barbed fittings. Things got worse? I
> believed
> > the leak near the blind encoder compensated for the little
> bit of suction.
> > I believe this all started after painting. There is a tiny little
> > depression around Cleveland Static Ports caused by the
> paint. My plan is
> to
> > find a heated Piper pitot mast with a static port built in.
> >
> > Anyone have a better idea?
> >
> > Dane Sheahen
> > N838RV RV8a
> >
> >
>
>
> =========
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | aluminum panel finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
Wayne
S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
AMEN!! Always remember the "old airplane builders proverb"....
Better is the enemy of good enough....
Not the first time this subject has come up, and surely not the last. Now
that there are at least 15+ (or some unGodly number ) of different RV
"forums" scattered around the net, we can make sure only a small percentage
of builders find out during this time around!
I'm constantly amazed people will spend more money to make things worse.
I've never seen what possible benefit there is to spending $20+ for a static
port that has been proven time and again to not work nearly as well as the
"tried and true" Van's design (which I believe costs less than a buck).
Sorry for the sarcasm, no hurt feelings intended - This is probably another
post that will get me in trouble....
Just my usual old crass 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein.
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Ducote
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Ducote" <mikejd1@cox.net>
Drill the port out to .030 and insert Van's pop rivet?
Mike Ducote
N63PM RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
>
> Dale
> I am having the same problem with my static system. Speed reads low and
> altitude is off in the air. Waukegan Avionics shop tested the system on
the
> ground and it checks out fine. I believe it is sucking out just a little
> air. Opening the alt static port corrects some of the problem. I did
find
> two cracks in the tubing near the barbed fittings, so I replaced every bit
> of line and tossed out those barbed fittings. Things got worse? I
believed
> the leak near the blind encoder compensated for the little bit of suction.
> I believe this all started after painting. There is a tiny little
> depression around Cleveland Static Ports caused by the paint. My plan is
to
> find a heated Piper pitot mast with a static port built in.
>
> Anyone have a better idea?
>
> Dane Sheahen
> N838RV RV8a
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: smoking hole |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Dan,
I think the energy that starts the explosion comes from the battery itself.
Three amps is enough to charge the battery up and start gassing the cell.
What I think happens is that the electrolyte gets below the top of the plates,
then some conductive particle (maybe a flake off the plates) shorts across
the plates and initiates the hydrogen and oxygen explosion. The battery case
is strong enough to make the pressure build high enough to make the explosion
significant. IMHO.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Do not archive this personal opinion.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Don't most/some trickle chargers come with inline fuses? FWIW, my Battery
Tender Jr. has an inline 3A automotive style fuse. The clip-on connector
doesn't have it, but the ring terminal connector does. Seems to me having a
fuse in there is critical if you plan on leaving a charger unattended.
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Battery Chargers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/05 12:53:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
lwalters2@cfl.rr.com writes:
Not a recommendation .... because I don't know the long term effects
..... but I use a little trickle charger from Harbor Freight. Actually,
I have three in use ..... two on aircraft and one on my 12V fuel pump
.... for auto fuel. So far, so good. 2 years on a gel cell in my Pitts
and I just put a new Gill in a Traumahawk ..... previous time unknown.
Linn
do not archive
Linn,
Let us know which one blows up first!
Dan Hopper
Do not archive.
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: aluminum panel finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Wayne Pedersen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
>
>I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
>high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
>
>Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
>panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
>it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
>before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
>finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
>any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
>Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
>
>Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
>
>Wayne
>S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
>
Very carefully with a belt sander. The wider the better. You also need
to make a 'fence' so that each pass is parallel to the first. The
machine I saw that does 'brushed aluminum' uses a belt about 4' wide and
4' long (4'X8' belt!!!), very coarse grit.
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Battery Chargers |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
This is from the recent Aeroelectric list archives. It's part of a
discussion about battery maintainers, and this is by Bob Nuckolls.
Terry
During my RAC sponsored battery study earlier this year
I asked about this technology at both Hawker and Concord.
The Hawker guy (marketing type) didn't have an opinion
and was not familiar with them. Concord guy (vp of marketing
but technically very savy guy) said they tried on an old
battery that they ran through a couple of discharge-recharge
cycles and recovered a lot of the battery's capacity . . .
but repeated the experiment on a similar battery with similar
results but without the "de-sulfator" . . . I have one that
I purchased and used it on a barely functional battery pulled
from my father-in-law's car. After a week .1C charge/ 1C discharge
cycles, I measured an increase in capacity from about 10 a.h.
(barely started the car) to about 16 a.h. Cranking current test
values rose moderately from about 150A to 220A.
I wouldn't say these critters will RECOVER a battery. I just
haven't had time to set up the experiment to compare the life
of two new batteries run on the same cycles but with de-sulfator
installed on one battery. It's on the list of things to do.
In the mean time, every battery manufacturer I talked to was
unanimous in their endorsement of battery maintainers . . .
ESPECIALLLY for flooded batteries. I use the Battery Minders
here in the shop. I picked up the Harbor Freight product to
check it out. I'm running a battery down now and will put a
data acquisition system on it to see how it compares with
the Battery Minder.
Anyone wanting to diddle with the desulfators can do a
Google search and get a TON of data on products to purchase
and projects to build.
Bob . . .
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: Battery Chargers |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/05 7:41:25 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
In a message dated 1/13/05 12:53:38 PM US Eastern Standard Time,
lwalters2@cfl.rr.com writes:
Not a recommendation .... because I don't know the long term effects
..... but I use a little trickle charger from Harbor Freight. Actually,
I have three in use ..... two on aircraft and one on my 12V fuel pump
.... for auto fuel. So far, so good. 2 years on a gel cell in my Pitts
and I just put a new Gill in a Traumahawk ..... previous time unknown.
Linn
do not archive
Linn,
Let us know which one blows up first!
Dan Hopper
Do not archive.
I'm sorry Linn. When you said Harbor Freight, I was thinking of the
el-cheapo battery charger, not a smart type of charger or desulfater, etc. Anyway,
it was just a joke. Around here we call it Hopper Humor!
Dan
Do not archive.
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Oil cooler attached to engine mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Jones" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
List,
Recently there was a discussion here about attaching
the oil cooler to the engine mount instead of the rear
baffle. There were even a couple of links showing the
cooler installed this way. I'm preparing for my first
annual and contemplating moving the oil cooler from
the baffle as I've already had to re-work the baffle
due to crack/break from the vibration of the oil
cooler.
Question... how did you attach the cooler to the
mount? Pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Doug -7A
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
http://groups.yahoo.com/ and look up the rv-8 group. sign up for it. when you get your approval, go the group home page http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/ and click on Photos the look for the golf mod subfolder
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
>
> Lucky,
> I can't get anywhere with this link. What is the name of the group?
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "lucky"
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
> >
> > i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
> or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
> fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
> likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
> the case.
> >
> > what the heck, found the link for you.
> >
> >
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs&.src=gr&.dnm=club
> s2.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/
> golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
> > >
> > > Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
> > >
> > > Jim Cimino
> > > RV-8 SN 80039
> > > 150+ Hours
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
> or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
> fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
> likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
> the case.
> >
> > what the heck, found the link for you.
> >
> >
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=clubs2
> .jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf
> %2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> > -- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
> >
> > Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
> >
> > Jim Cimino
> > RV-8 SN 80039
> > 150+ Hours
> >
> >
> > ww.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://groups.yahoo.com/ and look up the rv-8 group. sign up for it. when you get your approval, go the group home page http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/and click on Photos the look for the golf mod subfolder
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <JCIMINO@ECHOES.NET>
Lucky,
I can't get anywhere with this link. What is the name of the group?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <LUCKYMACY@COMCAST.NET>
To: <RV-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
-- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
the case.
<BR
> what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=club
s2.jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/
golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
the case.
what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=clubs2
.jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf
%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <JCIMINO@ECHOES.NET>
Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
ww.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
re
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
http://groups.yahoo.com/ and look up the rv-8 group. sign up for it. when you get your approval, go the group home page http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/ and click on Photos the look for the golf mod subfolder
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
>
> Lucky,
> I can't get anywhere with this link. What is the name of the group?
> Jim
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "lucky"
> To:
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
> >
> > i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
> or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
> fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
> likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
> the case.
> >
> > what the heck, found the link for you.
> >
> >
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs&.src=gr&.dnm=club
> s2.jpg&.view=t&.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/
> golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
> > >
> > > Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
> > >
> > > Jim Cimino
> > > RV-8 SN 80039
> > > 150+ Hours
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> > i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
> or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
> fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
> likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
> the case.
> >
> > what the heck, found the link for you.
> >
> >
> http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=clubs2
> .jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf
> %2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> >
> > -- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
> >
> > Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
> >
> > Jim Cimino
> > RV-8 SN 80039
> > 150+ Hours
> >
> >
> > ww.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
http://groups.yahoo.com/ and look up the rv-8 group. sign up for it. when you get your approval, go the group home page http://groups.yahoo.com/group/RV-8/and click on Photos the look for the golf mod subfolder
lucky
do not archive
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <JCIMINO@ECHOES.NET>
Lucky,
I can't get anywhere with this link. What is the name of the group?
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: "lucky" <LUCKYMACY@COMCAST.NET>
To: <RV-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
-- RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
the case.
<BR
> what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=club
s2.jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/
golf%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino"
Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
i like the solution that's out there on the rv8 yahoo list in the pictures
or files area. Two large golf club sized tubes integrated in the rear
fuselage. if you aren't a yahoo member and member of that group you most
likely can't view them. But it would only take a minute to join if that was
the case.
what the heck, found the link for you.
http://photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/vwp?.dir=/golf+clubs.src=gr.dnm=clubs2
.jpg.view=t.done=http%3a//photos.groups.yahoo.com/group/rv-8/lst%3f%26.dir=/golf
%2bclubs%26.src=gr%26.view=t
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <JCIMINO@ECHOES.NET>
Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
ww.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
re
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: aluminum panel finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> Very carefully with a belt sander. The wider the better. You also need
> to make a 'fence' so that each pass is parallel to the first. The
> machine I saw that does 'brushed aluminum' uses a belt about 4' wide and
> 4' long (4'X8' belt!!!), very coarse grit.
> Linn
This sounds way too aggressive to me. We use these wheels, mostly on
stainless to create a uniform brushed surface:
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=7add016d
This may be hard to do now that you have your holes cut out. I think I
might experiment with using a relatively fine abrasive, 180 grit maybe on a
flatboard sander to take long passes down the length of the panel and see
how you like that look. Any large woodworking shop will have a drum surface
sander which probably could put a uniform finish on your panel in about a
minute...
http://checkoway.com/url/?s=ad01dc6b
Good luck!
Message 38
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| Subject: | Oil cooler flanges cracking revisited |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I know this is yesterday's news, but I finally got around to looking at
and modifying my oil cooler mounts. I have the same setup as Dan did
and he experienced some pretty bad cracking. I was going to put washers
under the spacers, but at the urging of the local greybeard A&P I put
some Al angle in there as well. Cheap hardware store angle is better
for this than aircraft grade, because it does not have the radius fillet
on the inner corner, making it easier to drill the holes close to the edge.
Pics at http://home.mindspring.com/~rv6/RV6site/plenum.htm about 2/3
down the page.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/05 7:30:04 PM Eastern Standard Time,
stein@steinair.com writes:
> I'm constantly amazed people will spend more money to make things worse.
> I've never seen what possible benefit there is to spending $20+ for a static
> port that has been proven time and again to not work nearly as well as the
> "tried and true" Van's design (which I believe costs less than a buck).
>
> Sorry for the sarcasm, no hurt feelings intended - This is probably another
> post that will get me in trouble....
>
Stein, no hurt feelings here. And I hope you feel better getting that off
your chest.
Of course the $20 would not have been spent if I had known it was not going
to work as well as Van's "tried and true". Guess I was influenced too much by
appearance. Not the first time. The first Mrs. was a beautiful woman but....!
The current Mrs. is also beautiful and she likes to fly with me. Can't wait to
get the test hours on the 6A so she can enjoy it with me.
Dale Ensing
do not archive
Message 40
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| Subject: | Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 41
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|
"RV9 Group" <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
After a lot of soul searching I am getting out of aviation and sticking with cars,
boats, and motorcycles. Selling my cherokee and the kit is next. I know, I
know. But, I gotta do what I gotta do. My Harley is calling.
RV-9A: QB fuselage, 95% complete wings, 70% complete empennage, fully primed,
dual lights, brakes and steps, AOA installed in wing. Cost around $22,000 to buy
equivalent new now, cost around $16,500 for all the parts to me. Will look
for around $15,000.
Curt Hoffman
Cincinnati area
contact at choffman9@cinci.rr.com
Message 42
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| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I had the exact same problem with mine. Replaced with the pop rivet method
and worked fine. I like the ports, I just think they need to be placed
somewhere else on the airplane if they are to be flush mounted.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
AMEN!! Always remember the "old airplane builders proverb"....
Better is the enemy of good enough....
Not the first time this subject has come up, and surely not the last. Now
that there are at least 15+ (or some unGodly number ) of different RV
"forums" scattered around the net, we can make sure only a small percentage
of builders find out during this time around!
I'm constantly amazed people will spend more money to make things worse.
I've never seen what possible benefit there is to spending $20+ for a static
port that has been proven time and again to not work nearly as well as the
"tried and true" Van's design (which I believe costs less than a buck).
Sorry for the sarcasm, no hurt feelings intended - This is probably another
post that will get me in trouble....
Just my usual old crass 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein.
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Ducote
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Ducote" <mikejd1@cox.net>
Drill the port out to .030 and insert Van's pop rivet?
Mike Ducote
N63PM RV6
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
>
> Dale
> I am having the same problem with my static system. Speed reads low and
> altitude is off in the air. Waukegan Avionics shop tested the system on
the
> ground and it checks out fine. I believe it is sucking out just a little
> air. Opening the alt static port corrects some of the problem. I did
find
> two cracks in the tubing near the barbed fittings, so I replaced every bit
> of line and tossed out those barbed fittings. Things got worse? I
believed
> the leak near the blind encoder compensated for the little bit of suction.
> I believe this all started after painting. There is a tiny little
> depression around Cleveland Static Ports caused by the paint. My plan is
to
> find a heated Piper pitot mast with a static port built in.
>
> Anyone have a better idea?
>
> Dane Sheahen
> N838RV RV8a
>
>
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re: aluminum panel finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Wayne
2-3 minutes soaking in a vat of AlumiPrep (or similar) diluted 5 to 1
with water will give you a nice satin finish.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
>
>I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
>high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
>
>Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
>panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
>it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
>before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
>finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
>any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
>Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
>
>Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
>
>Wayne
>S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/05 9:32:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
azpilot@extremezone.com writes:
> . Replaced with the pop rivet method
> and worked fine.
Paul,
How did you go about changing the Cleveland ports to the pop rivets?
Dale Ensing
Message 45
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--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
do you have any pics to email of the kit and work done.
thanks,
Wayne Petrus
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell. The kits are super tight
in most regards but every once in a while I come across something like the
static ports that makes me stop and ask myself "REALLY?" I certainly would
like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet. I have
just recently installed a pair of flushies on my tailcone and they look
cool.......but if they don't work as well I will certainly reconsider. As I
understand it the tail cone is in neutral air and it goes against my
instincts to say the rivet would work better. Frankly the biggest issue I
had with the rivet is the method of attachment to the tubing....gobs of
sealant just doesn't feel right. Must be all the proseal I work with....a
big mess is easy to make and almost never proves to be the best method.
Clean is good!
Liking this debate!
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> AMEN!! Always remember the "old airplane builders proverb"....
>
> Better is the enemy of good enough....
>
> Not the first time this subject has come up, and surely not the last. Now
> that there are at least 15+ (or some unGodly number ) of different RV
> "forums" scattered around the net, we can make sure only a small
percentage
> of builders find out during this time around!
>
> I'm constantly amazed people will spend more money to make things worse.
> I've never seen what possible benefit there is to spending $20+ for a
static
> port that has been proven time and again to not work nearly as well as the
> "tried and true" Van's design (which I believe costs less than a buck).
>
> Sorry for the sarcasm, no hurt feelings intended - This is probably
another
> post that will get me in trouble....
>
> Just my usual old crass 2 cents!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
> Do Not Archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mike Ducote
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Ducote" <mikejd1@cox.net>
>
> Drill the port out to .030 and insert Van's pop rivet?
>
> Mike Ducote
> N63PM RV6
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" <dane@mutualace.com>
> >
> > Dale
> > I am having the same problem with my static system. Speed reads low and
> > altitude is off in the air. Waukegan Avionics shop tested the system on
> the
> > ground and it checks out fine. I believe it is sucking out just a
little
> > air. Opening the alt static port corrects some of the problem. I did
> find
> > two cracks in the tubing near the barbed fittings, so I replaced every
bit
> > of line and tossed out those barbed fittings. Things got worse? I
> believed
> > the leak near the blind encoder compensated for the little bit of
suction.
> > I believe this all started after painting. There is a tiny little
> > depression around Cleveland Static Ports caused by the paint. My plan
is
> to
> > find a heated Piper pitot mast with a static port built in.
> >
> > Anyone have a better idea?
> >
> > Dane Sheahen
> > N838RV RV8a
> >
> >
>
>
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:16 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
Yeah, but it works :-)
> " I certainly would
> like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Because it's been tried and it works. The location apparently doesn't
provide a perfect "static" source, but the local flow effects of the
pop rivet dome offset this. If Kevin Horton is reading this thread he
could explain it better
> I have
> just recently installed a pair of flushies on my tailcone and they look
> cool.......but if they don't work as well I will certainly reconsider.
You can add kludges to make them work (a dam behind the port will raise
pressure/lower IAS, and one ahead of the port will have the opposite
effect). I have seen this done on factory aircraft, but it's just
easier to copy what's worked in the past rather than reinvent.
> . Frankly the biggest issue I
> had with the rivet is the method of attachment to the tubing....gobs of
> sealant just doesn't feel right
Me too. I can tell you what I did, although I'm sure there are better
methods. I couldn't get the sealant to work right for me, so I got
some small (.125 OD IIRC) brass tubing from the hobby shop and flared
the ends of two pieces about an inch long. I glued these over the
"shop head" of the pop rive with JB-weld. This gave me a nice place to
put the tubing, looked OK, and required no great skill.
> Liking this debate!
Me too
James Freeman
getting closer
Message 48
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| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
I didn't replace them. The gentleman who bought my airplane did it, and
subsequently told me that it fixed the problem. I'm not sure how he did it,
actually. I am in agreement with the poster that said the installation is
hokey. I mean come on, a Pop Rivet? It was a no brainer to put the
cleveland ports there, but it sounds as if there are some common issues with
that.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DWENSING@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/05 9:32:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
azpilot@extremezone.com writes:
> . Replaced with the pop rivet method
> and worked fine.
Paul,
How did you go about changing the Cleveland ports to the pop rivets?
Dale Ensing
Message 49
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| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Lots of talk about Cleveland but it's not clear if is this related
specifically to the Cleveland design/brand. I just bought a set from ACS
because I also didn't like the looks of the pop rivet but now you have me
wondering if this problem pertains to the Cleveland design or all "flush"
designs. Is this also a problem with the ACS ports?
BTW,... by "flush" do you mean that nothing of the port extends past the
skin or just that the port orifice is flush with area immediately
surrounding it. My ports look about like a quarter resting on the skin with
a hole in the middle.
Thanks Bill S
7a QB/fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Freeman
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:16 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
Yeah, but it works :-)
> " I certainly would
> like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Because it's been tried and it works. The location apparently doesn't
provide a perfect "static" source, but the local flow effects of the
pop rivet dome offset this. If Kevin Horton is reading this thread he
could explain it better
> I have
> just recently installed a pair of flushies on my tailcone and they look
> cool.......but if they don't work as well I will certainly reconsider.
You can add kludges to make them work (a dam behind the port will raise
pressure/lower IAS, and one ahead of the port will have the opposite
effect). I have seen this done on factory aircraft, but it's just
easier to copy what's worked in the past rather than reinvent.
> . Frankly the biggest issue I
> had with the rivet is the method of attachment to the tubing....gobs of
> sealant just doesn't feel right
Me too. I can tell you what I did, although I'm sure there are better
methods. I couldn't get the sealant to work right for me, so I got
some small (.125 OD IIRC) brass tubing from the hobby shop and flared
the ends of two pieces about an inch long. I glued these over the
"shop head" of the pop rive with JB-weld. This gave me a nice place to
put the tubing, looked OK, and required no great skill.
> Liking this debate!
Me too
James Freeman
getting closer
Message 50
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|
| Subject: | Re: aluminum panel finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/2005 4:24:22 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
wayne@pedersentransport.com writes:
Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anodizer couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
================================
Find a machine shop that does "graining" for a brushed or sanded appearance
or have it "glass bead blasted" for a matte finish.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 51
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/2005 8:29:20 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net writes:
Lots of talk about Cleveland but it's not clear if is this related
specifically to the Cleveland design/brand. I just bought a set from ACS
because I also didn't like the looks of the pop rivet but now you have me
wondering if this problem pertains to the Cleveland design or all "flush"
designs. Is this also a problem with the ACS ports?
============================
Cleveland doesn't make these ports, Cleaveland Tool does. My ACS ones work
great and they are flush.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 52
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|
| Subject: | Re: Handheld nav/com radio |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on localhost
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
I can't speak for the Sporty's model but I have a 10 year old Icom A22.
This has been replace with a model that is cheaper and has more features.
1) The "rubber ducky" antenna seems to do a fine job both directions.
This radio has a standard BNC antenna connector which is the same as
your aircraft radio . Hooking in to the aircraft antenna would certainly
increase the range.
2) $299 is a pretty good deal for a hand held and I doubt if you can
find anything cheaper. The Icom A24 is $425.
3) The SP200 user's manual lists a headset adapter on page 29. You plug
in the adapter and the radio speaker and microphone are disabled. Not
sure if this is included but I couldn't find it on the list of
accessories for sale. Here is the link to the user's manual.
http://www.sportys.com/pdf/sp200.pdf
I like using my radio when driving. I'll tune in ATIS or AWOS.
Mark
LML Klingmuller wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller" <l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
>
>I am thinking of buying a backup hand held radio with the VOR option similar
to the SP-200A model sold by Sporty's.
>My questions are 1) would the unit work with the short flexible antenna attached
to the unit or would the radio require an antenna connector to the airplanes
com antenna? 2) is Sporty the best on the market for $299 with the VOR option?
and 3) can I just plug my headset in case the radio goes blank and still have
good communications?
>Some of the utralight seem to use these units. Some are louse when transmitting
(lots of background noise) while others seem to be acceptable.
>
>
>
>
Message 53
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
This is going back many years ago I think, but Kevin Horton was part of
a team that did some static port testing on an airline type of plane.
Kevin posted quite a bit of information on the RV-List but also had a
very good link on his website that I bookmarked talking about static
ports. Unfortunately, Kevin has totally revamped his website (very very
nice I might add) and my link doesn't work anymore. Maybe someone who's
interested can find the article(s).
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
>>><crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>>>
>>>We went with the Cleveland static ports (they look great) but they with
>>>painting they come out flush - still trying to resolve. Fortunately we
>>>have
>>>the static port on the pitot. If I had to do it again we'd go with Van's
>>>rivets.
>>>
>>>Chuck Rowbotham
>>>RV-8A
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>>From: DWENSING@aol.com
>>>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
>>>>Date: Thu, 13 Jan 2005 09:27:19 EST
>>>>
>>>>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>>>>
>>>>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator
>>>>
>>>>
>>>error
>>>
>>>
>>>>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>>>>didn't find
>>>>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering
>>>>
>>>>
>>>if
>>>
>>>
>>>>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>>>>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>>>>Dale Ensing
>>>>RV6A N118DE
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
--
Mike Nellis
Austin, TX
CMRA #32 Honda RC51
'97 YZF1000
'47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage)
http://bmnellis.com
Message 54
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| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 1/12/2005 9:29:52 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
davemader@bresnan.net writes:
So I take it you would not recommend keeping a "float" type charger on
>whenever the plane is in the hangar?
===================================
I have used the three BRW EZ Charger battery tenders I've had for over 20
yrs on various planes, cars and motorcycles unattended and they work well.
They have reverse polarity protection, put out 13.3VDC and are two stage 600mA
max and step down to 35mA unattended. I think they are still in business and
the last numbers I have for them are
312-369-5675 (and Tollfree 800-426-6008).
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 55
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| Subject: | Re: Golf Clubs in RV-8 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Mine fit no problem, Oh yeah, I have a 6 :)
Yet another reason for an sbs plane.
Shemp
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
Subject: RV-List: Golf Clubs in RV-8
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
>
> Anyone come up with a good way to take the golf clubs along in the RV-8?
>
> Jim Cimino
> RV-8 SN 80039
> 150+ Hours
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 56
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| Subject: | Re: Handheld nav/com radio clamav-milter version 0.80j |
on localhost
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Just had to jump in. While building HRII N561FS Tom & I flew & got our tail
wheel rating in a Champ. We used the Sporty's A300 (got it used 5-15 yrs old
???) with a rubber ducky, portable intercom, PTT and required adaptors for
two years. With the headsets we were able to talk to each other, Unicom at
APV and at times could hear calls from as far away as French Valley (80
miles or so) when we were at altitude (Lake Arrowhead is between & a while
lot higher than APV & French Valley). I built clips for everything and hung
the radio etc on the side panels. The rubber ducky stuck just above the
bottom of the side window. Have used it for Young Eagles, Air Boss when ACS
was starting races at APV, Air Fairs etc. GREAT value for the money but it's
kinda short on battery life (AA 6 pack) for cross country & the rechargeable
pack costs about half of the cost of a brand new radio. Est: 3-5 Hrs heavy
transmit, 8 Hrs or more for listening & VOR. Carried extra AA battery pack,
2 minute max change over. Kinda like the Champ under powered, large but very
serviceable. I don't leave home without it. KABONG Do Not Archive
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "LML Klingmuller"
>><l_klingmuller@earthlink.net>
>>
>>I am thinking of buying a backup hand held radio with the VOR option
>>similar to the SP-200A model sold by Sporty's.
>>My questions are 1) would the unit work with the short flexible antenna
>>attached to the unit or would the radio require an antenna connector to
>>the airplanes com antenna? 2) is Sporty the best on the market for $299
>>with the VOR option? and 3) can I just plug my headset in case the radio
>>goes blank and still have good communications?
>>Some of the utralight seem to use these units. Some are louse when
>>transmitting (lots of background noise) while others seem to be
>>acceptable.
Message 57
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| Subject: | aluminum panel finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Blair Amundsen" <amunbr@telusplanet.net>
Hello Wayne
I have used Draino dissolved about 1 - 2 tablespoons in a glass pan to etch
1 foot square radio panels. Wear goggles and do it outside. It smokes and
stinks a lot but makes a nice satin finish.
Blair Amundsen
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Wayne Pedersen
Subject: RV-List: aluminum panel finish
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen"
<wayne@pedersentransport.com>
I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
Wayne
S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 58
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| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Parker" <dennis@k2workflow.com>
This is something that I specifically noticed and then started taking a
look at on production air planes. I have yet to see a "Flush" static
port. I have looked at a C182, C210, C335, PC6 Pilatus Porter, Baron
BE55 and last but not least my own RV7. All of them have the static port
protrude into the air stream. Not one of them are flush. As my RV7 is
yet to fly I cannot comment on the actual result, but I am betting that
the flush mount of the static port has a lot to do with the problems
that are being reported.
I have also heard (as someone else commented) that the port needs to
protrude its head above the boundary layer. Also not sure whether that
is urban legend or the truth. As I hope to fly in the next two weeks I
will post my results once I see how it works out.
Dennis
RV7
71041
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer"
<billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Lots of talk about Cleveland but it's not clear if is this related
specifically to the Cleveland design/brand. I just bought a set from
ACS
because I also didn't like the looks of the pop rivet but now you have
me
wondering if this problem pertains to the Cleveland design or all
"flush"
designs. Is this also a problem with the ACS ports?
BTW,... by "flush" do you mean that nothing of the port extends past the
skin or just that the port orifice is flush with area immediately
surrounding it. My ports look about like a quarter resting on the skin
with
a hole in the middle.
Thanks Bill S
7a QB/fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Freeman
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:16 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
Yeah, but it works :-)
> " I certainly would
> like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Because it's been tried and it works. The location apparently doesn't
provide a perfect "static" source, but the local flow effects of the
pop rivet dome offset this. If Kevin Horton is reading this thread he
could explain it better
> I have
> just recently installed a pair of flushies on my tailcone and they
look
> cool.......but if they don't work as well I will certainly reconsider.
You can add kludges to make them work (a dam behind the port will raise
pressure/lower IAS, and one ahead of the port will have the opposite
effect). I have seen this done on factory aircraft, but it's just
easier to copy what's worked in the past rather than reinvent.
> . Frankly the biggest issue I
> had with the rivet is the method of attachment to the tubing....gobs
of
> sealant just doesn't feel right
Me too. I can tell you what I did, although I'm sure there are better
methods. I couldn't get the sealant to work right for me, so I got
some small (.125 OD IIRC) brass tubing from the hobby shop and flared
the ends of two pieces about an inch long. I glued these over the
"shop head" of the pop rive with JB-weld. This gave me a nice place to
put the tubing, looked OK, and required no great skill.
> Liking this debate!
Me too
James Freeman
getting closer
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