Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:36 AM - Re: Static ports Cleveland/Van's/others.... (John Kent)
2. 05:43 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Paul Besing)
3. 06:00 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Alex Peterson)
4. 06:37 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (James Freeman)
5. 06:51 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Chris Brooks)
6. 08:22 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Kevin Williams)
7. 08:34 AM - Belly com antenna (John DeCuir)
8. 08:35 AM - Cleveland static ports (Glen Matejcek)
9. 08:38 AM - aluminum panel finish (Glen Matejcek)
10. 09:49 AM - Re: Alternator mounting problem (RV4WGH@aol.com)
11. 09:53 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (linn walters)
12. 10:28 AM - Re: aluminum panel finish (Larry Bowen)
13. 10:31 AM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Kevin Horton)
14. 10:48 AM - KX125 Ign noise followup (Charles Heathco)
15. 11:41 AM - OC Pix (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
16. 11:47 AM - Re: battery charging (David Burton)
17. 12:31 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (HCRV6@aol.com)
18. 12:44 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (HCRV6@aol.com)
19. 12:46 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Kosta Lewis)
20. 02:01 PM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Bryan Jones)
21. 02:13 PM - static ports (linn walters)
22. 02:19 PM - Grove RV-8 Gear (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
23. 02:27 PM - Re: RV-9A kit (Curt)
24. 03:08 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Jerry Springer)
25. 03:12 PM - Re: static ports (Jim Jewell)
26. 03:17 PM - > Re: Belly comm antenna (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
27. 03:24 PM - Re: Grove RV-8 Gear (Kevin Williams)
28. 03:25 PM - Re: Forum Web Address (Kevin Williams)
29. 03:32 PM - Re: RV-9A kit (Dwpetrus@aol.com)
30. 03:48 PM - Re: Aluminum panel finish (emrath@comcast.net)
31. 03:52 PM - Re: static ports (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
32. 04:11 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
33. 05:44 PM - Re: Re: Aluminum panel finish (linn walters)
34. 05:44 PM - Re: Grove RV-8 Gear (Greg@itmack)
35. 06:14 PM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (David Burton)
36. 06:23 PM - Re:Oil cooler attached to engine mount (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
37. 06:31 PM - Re: Forum Web Address (John Spicer)
38. 06:32 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Evan and Megan Johnson)
39. 07:23 PM - Rod end bearings - Loc-tite or not (Karie Daniel)
40. 08:38 PM - Re: Rod end bearings - Loc-tite or not (Jeff Dowling)
41. 08:39 PM - Re: Forum Web Address (Kevin Horton)
42. 08:52 PM - Hooker harness (Jeff Dowling)
43. 09:27 PM - Re: Re:Oil cooler attached to engine mount (Scott VanArtsdalen)
44. 09:29 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (mark manda)
45. 09:47 PM - Re: static ports (Kevin Horton)
46. 10:02 PM - Re: Grove RV-8 Gear (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
47. 10:03 PM - Re: RV-Static Ports was Cleveland Static Ports (EMAproducts@aol.com)
48. 11:56 PM - Re: Hooker harness (Stein Bruch)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Static ports Cleveland/Van's/others.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Kent" <jakent@unison.ie>
There is a much nicer way!!!
Technically better - uses AN type connections if desired.
Much prettier - and "aircraft quality" (what-ever that is ! ) to boot.
Step 1 : find a dead Grumman (AA1, AA5, similar)
Step 2 : extract static system (usually left in the carcass) and clean up
Step 3 : install in RV -- End of procedure..
John Kent RV-4 EI-DIY Ireland
Message 2
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| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
True. I preflight a C-172 everyday, and the static port is a raised circle
about the size of a quarter with a hole in it. The circle is raised about
1/8" if I were to guess without looking at it. Someone could make a
non-recessed machined port, ala cleveland that still would be a much better
installation than a pop rivet.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dennis Parker
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Parker" <dennis@k2workflow.com>
This is something that I specifically noticed and then started taking a
look at on production air planes. I have yet to see a "Flush" static
port. I have looked at a C182, C210, C335, PC6 Pilatus Porter, Baron
BE55 and last but not least my own RV7. All of them have the static port
protrude into the air stream. Not one of them are flush. As my RV7 is
yet to fly I cannot comment on the actual result, but I am betting that
the flush mount of the static port has a lot to do with the problems
that are being reported.
I have also heard (as someone else commented) that the port needs to
protrude its head above the boundary layer. Also not sure whether that
is urban legend or the truth. As I hope to fly in the next two weeks I
will post my results once I see how it works out.
Dennis
RV7
71041
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Schlatterer
Subject: RE: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer"
<billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Lots of talk about Cleveland but it's not clear if is this related
specifically to the Cleveland design/brand. I just bought a set from
ACS
because I also didn't like the looks of the pop rivet but now you have
me
wondering if this problem pertains to the Cleveland design or all
"flush"
designs. Is this also a problem with the ACS ports?
BTW,... by "flush" do you mean that nothing of the port extends past the
skin or just that the port orifice is flush with area immediately
surrounding it. My ports look about like a quarter resting on the skin
with
a hole in the middle.
Thanks Bill S
7a QB/fuse
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of James Freeman
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
On Jan 13, 2005, at 9:16 PM, Evan and Megan Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson"
> <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
>
> I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
Yeah, but it works :-)
> " I certainly would
> like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Because it's been tried and it works. The location apparently doesn't
provide a perfect "static" source, but the local flow effects of the
pop rivet dome offset this. If Kevin Horton is reading this thread he
could explain it better
> I have
> just recently installed a pair of flushies on my tailcone and they
look
> cool.......but if they don't work as well I will certainly reconsider.
You can add kludges to make them work (a dam behind the port will raise
pressure/lower IAS, and one ahead of the port will have the opposite
effect). I have seen this done on factory aircraft, but it's just
easier to copy what's worked in the past rather than reinvent.
> . Frankly the biggest issue I
> had with the rivet is the method of attachment to the tubing....gobs
of
> sealant just doesn't feel right
Me too. I can tell you what I did, although I'm sure there are better
methods. I couldn't get the sealant to work right for me, so I got
some small (.125 OD IIRC) brass tubing from the hobby shop and flared
the ends of two pieces about an inch long. I glued these over the
"shop head" of the pop rive with JB-weld. This gave me a nice place to
put the tubing, looked OK, and required no great skill.
> Liking this debate!
Me too
James Freeman
getting closer
Message 3
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| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> looking at it. Someone could make a non-recessed machined
> port, ala cleveland that still would be a much better
> installation than a pop rivet.
>
OK. One could always put in a computer system which would take radar
altimeter data, air temperature, etc.., and feed data to an on board
pressure generator, which would then be fed into the static system. Presto,
no more Van's rivet. The other advantage is that it could be programmed to
compensate for barometric changes - one could leave their Kollsman at
29.92"!
On second thought, I guess I'll leave those 14,001st and 14,002nd rivets in
my plane.
Do not archive.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 566 hours dragging two pop-rivets around.
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: James Freeman <flyeyes@mac.com>
On Jan 14, 2005, at 12:32 AM, Dennis Parker wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dennis Parker" <dennis@k2workflow.com>
>
> This is something that I specifically noticed and then started taking a
> look at on production air planes. I have yet to see a "Flush" static
> port.
I know of at least one: we used to own a 1978 Cessna 337. The static
ports were flush (very small holes in the skin). Curiously, they were
located well forward on the fuselage, maybe 4 feet behind the front
propeller. I would have thought this would be a "dirty air" location,
but they worked perfectly. The pitot source consisted of two small
holes drilled in the leading edge of the left wing strut.
A previous airplane (Navion) had a disc insert in the skin of the aft
fuse, like the Cleveland, but it had a machined "nipple" around the
hole that looked a lot like a pop rivet head.
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6@hotmail.com>
I have the Cleveland flush ports also. Mine are literally flush. While
painting it was obvious that the port would be recessed to the paint
surface, so dispite all the placards I've seen around static ports that said
"do not paint" I painted them, and color sanded and polished them with rest
of the plane. Then I ran a drill bit thru the center hole to clean it out. I
figured I had nothing to loose because I'd have to put a rivet in it anyway
after flight testing. So far no rivet and no problem. I read about the same
AS, and Alt as 3 other planes I've flown alongside of, and I've held it just
over the runway to 90kts and my altimeter reading didn't change. I'm not
suggesting anyone else do this, but it worked for me.
Chris Brooks
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
I found a 200hp IO 360 A1A advertised for sale. The ad reads.
200hp IO 360 A1A. First Run. NDH, Cleaned, Painted, New Starter, Rings,
scamshaft, Bearings, Exhaust Valves, Magnetos, etc, Log book. Not Certified,
you assemble. $15000.00Canadian Dollars, $12400.00US dollars.
I havent called the seller yet, I thought I would check with you guys to
find out.
1)How hard is it to rebuild one of these? About the same as a regular car
engine I would imagine???
2)Where would I find a good, detailed, laymens manual on rebuilding these
engines?
3)What do you think of the price? Im a strong believer that if you arent
getting something with a warranty you should get it very cheap to make up
for the most sever of possibilities ie cracked case, cracked crank ect.
4)What questions should I ask when I call?
I know most of us buy our engines already rebuilt buy reputable companies
but I do believe the experimental category allows us to rebuild engines and
use them as uncertified in experimental planes.
Kevin
Yellowknife, NT, Canada
RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
From: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6@hotmail.com>
I have the Cleveland flush ports also. Mine are literally flush. While
painting it was obvious that the port would be recessed to the paint
surface, so dispite all the placards I've seen around static ports that said
"do not paint" I painted them, and color sanded and polished them with rest
of the plane. Then I ran a drill bit thru the center hole to clean it out. I
figured I had nothing to loose because I'd have to put a rivet in it anyway
after flight testing. So far no rivet and no problem. I read about the same
AS, and Alt as 3 other planes I've flown alongside of, and I've held it just
over the runway to 90kts and my altimeter reading didn't change. I'm not
suggesting anyone else do this, but it worked for me.
Chris Brooks
Message 7
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| Subject: | Belly com antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: John DeCuir <jadecuir@comcast.net>
I've got a question for the avionics gurus out there.
Background: RV4, Flybuddy LORAN with belly antenna, Terra Tx720 with
antenna midway between aft canopy and vert. stab..
The problem: Installed GX50 GPS unit, with antenna under canopy just
aft of rear seat. coax run opposite side of fuse as com coax.
Distance between antennas = 32". I get interference on ALL the freqs
listed in installation manual; total signal loss on GPS when
transmitting. Various other freqs - no problem.
I've bought another antenna to match the hole left from the LORAN
antenna on the belly. A friend is building a Low-loss RF switch, so I
can use either antenna, as I expect blind spots with belly antenna,
especially on the ground. Theory is that I can use the belly antenna
when on approach, and avoid signal loss.
The belly ant. is just aft the firewall and an inch or so starboard
of centerline, between the gearlegs. Does anyone else have a com ant.
there? Does anyone have a similar GPS antenna mount with no
interference? Could the problem be the Terra? I don't want to move
either antenna and patch holes.
John DeCuir
RV-4, N204CP
460 hrs TTAE
Salinas, CA
Message 8
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| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi All-
Well,, I didn't sleep in a holiday inn express last night, but I did get a
pretty good night's sleep...
My rationalization here is that the rivet is very cheap and effective when
applied correctly, and as such fits Van's bill perfectly. But, the shape
of the fuselage by itself as well as the shape of the rivet head each cause
variations on the local static pressure just as an airfoil does. Given
that the rivet head should cause a slight reduction in the local static
pressure, it follows that it should be located somewhere where the static
pressure tends to be higher. The farther aft you go on that flat fuselage
side, the higher the pressure, a la pressure recovery wheel pants. So, if
I were to employ flush static ports instead of the rivet heads, I'd move
them farther forward. How far forward? Wherever the designer of the
original system suggested....
gm
Message 9
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| Subject: | aluminum panel finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
Hi Wayne-
I don't know for sure about bare aluminum, but the grey scotchbrite pads
(fine) do a great job of putting a scratch less, matte finish on paint.
The white (extra fine) will tend to burnish a shine back into the surface.
Check with woodworking suppliers, if you're interested.
Glen Matejcek
aerobubba@earthlink.net
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator mounting problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: RV4WGH@aol.com
I purchased a 87-89 Suzuki Samari alternator from Autozone. Used their web
and saved a few $$. Alternator was $96 plus $50-60 for core charge. Rated
at 55 amps, Lifetime warranty. Made a bracket to mount it. Basically
duplicated the one that was on the engine with the original alternator except
distance between mounting lugs was changed to match the new alternator. Purchase
the "adjustment" bracket from Autozone for $10, chrome plated. Had to cut to
fit.
Building an RV-4 and needed the smallest I could get to clear the cowl.
Wally Hunt
Rockford, IL
Finishing Kit
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Kevin Williams wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
>I found a 200hp IO 360 A1A advertised for sale. The ad reads.
>
>200hp IO 360 A1A. First Run. NDH, Cleaned, Painted, New Starter, Rings,
>scamshaft, Bearings, Exhaust Valves, Magnetos, etc, Log book. Not Certified,
>you assemble. $15000.00Canadian Dollars, $12400.00US dollars.
>
>I havent called the seller yet, I thought I would check with you guys to
>find out.
>
>1)How hard is it to rebuild one of these? About the same as a regular car
>engine I would imagine???
>
Assembly is a whole lot easier than splitting the case!!!
>2)Where would I find a good, detailed, laymens manual on rebuilding these
>engines?
>
You need the assembly manual for your particular engine (actually, a
group of engines) and you should invest in the parts manual (covers
subset of dasn #'s). Aircraft Spruce has them as do Chief or direct
from Lycoming. I don't know who has the best discount, but it's worth
the time to price them.
>3)What do you think of the price? Im a strong believer that if you arent
>getting something with a warranty you should get it very cheap to make up
>for the most sever of possibilities ie cracked case, cracked crank ect.
>
I would agree. A core..... not rebuilt .... will run anywhere from
$2000 to $6000 ...... but most of the time you don't have any knowledge
of the background of the engine. The ad says first run..... but not how
many hours ..... the log book should give you an idea. The cylinders
could be junk .... ad doesn't mention anything about the top end .....
so plan accordingly. I'd also plan on new pistons and wrist pins/caps
..... but you can measure the land gaps with the new rings, and look for
pitting in the lands.
>4)What questions should I ask when I call?
>
There are many! Has the case been inspected (Divco is one place) .....
what about the top end ..... why the new cam ..... what about the cam
followers ...... the more I think the more I'm inclined to think he
price is high. But, it's about 1/2 (or less) of a new rebuild
Signature Aviation, for example has a rebuilt IO-A1B6D $15,500 exchange,
so add the core value ..... one ad lists a IO-360-C1C with one bad
cylinder for 8700. Get a copy of Trade-a-Plane and look at what's
available.
>I know most of us buy our engines already rebuilt buy reputable companies
>but I do believe the experimental category allows us to rebuild engines and
>use them as uncertified in experimental planes.
>
This is true. If you've got some mechanic skills, rebuilding your own
can save significant $$$$. If you have an A&P friend that wll get you
parts at cost .... even more $$$ saved. You can also give him some
bucks to oversee your assembly abilities. These engines are dirt simple
..... but you should have the parts inspected and checked for limits and
ADs checked.
Good luck,
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>Kevin
>
>Yellowknife, NT, Canada
>RV-8 Wanna Be Builder
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: aluminum panel finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I used a new green scotchbrite pad under a palm sander on some map
pockets. It makes a nice matte finish in about three seconds.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Glen Matejcek said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Glen Matejcek" <aerobubba@earthlink.net>
>
> Hi Wayne-
>
> I don't know for sure about bare aluminum, but the grey scotchbrite pads
> (fine) do a great job of putting a scratch less, matte finish on paint.
> The white (extra fine) will tend to burnish a shine back into the surface.
> Check with woodworking suppliers, if you're interested.
>
>
> Glen Matejcek
> aerobubba@earthlink.net
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>didn't find
>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>Dale Ensing
>RV6A N118DE
I'm on the road this week, working very long days, so I wasn't keeping up
to date on the RV-List.
The ideal static port would be at a location where the pressure was equal
to the free stream pressure at every flight condition. Unfortunately, the
air flow has to accelerate and decelerate as it goes around the aircraft,
and Bernoulli's Law tells us that this will cause the pressure to
change. At any given flight condition there are a number of locations on
the aircraft where the pressure is equal to the free stream static
pressure. But, if you change flight conditions, these locations end up
somewhere else. It is very, very difficult to find a good location for
static ports.
Van's static port is a domed head pop rivet. Some people are offended by
the protruding head, and replace it with something that is flatter, like
the Cleaveland or ACS static ports. But you need to realize that Van isn't
stupid, and there is a reason why he used a protruding static port - it
works. The airflow will have to accelerate a bit as it goes over that
domed head, and this will cause the pressure to fall. In other words, if
you have a more flush static port, at the same location, this port will
sense a higher pressure. ASI readings are a function of the difference
between pitot and static pressures, so the flatter static port will lead to
lower ASI readings.
I've seem info from several builders who have modified the flush static
ports to make them more like Van's design, and they reported that the
accuracy of their ASI and altimeter improved. I have also seen messages
from two builders who are sure that their ASI is accurate with the flatter
static ports. And I bet most RVers have no idea how accurate their ASI and
altimeter are at all. Every RV is a bit different, due to small changes in
skin contour ahead of the static port, so every one will have a slightly
different static system error. And every ASI has a different instrument
error. If you are lucky, the error in your ASI will cancel out the error
in your static system.
If your ASI reads a bit low, that is no big deal, except you should lower
your max flap speed and VNE a bit to compensate. But, if you fly IFR you
need to understand that static system errors also affect the altimeter. I
wouldn't want to be shooting instrument approaches without knowing what
errors my altimeter had, and compensating for them.
You also have to understand that ASIs have instrument error too, so at
first glance there is no way of knowing whether your problem is ASI
instrument error, pitot-static leaks, static system error or a problem with
the way you determined the ASI accuracy.
I've got a bunch of info on my web site on how to check the ASI accuracy
using a homemade water manometer. Then, I've got info on how to do static
system accuracy flight testing, including a spreadsheet to crunch the
data. See:
http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
The whole list of links on pitot-static systems is at:
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?PID=47
Kevin Horton
RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 14
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| Subject: | KX125 Ign noise followup |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I thought it might be healpful to post the outcome of my noise problem. All sugestions
tried, no help, I ended up putting on both mag filters. (tedious job)
and noise gone. charlie heathco
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
In a message dated 1/14/2005 12:04:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Time: 05:10:23 PM PST US
From: "D. Jones" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler attached to engine mount
--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Jones" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
List,
Recently there was a discussion here about attaching
the oil cooler to the engine mount instead of the rear
baffle. There were even a couple of links showing the
cooler installed this way. I'm preparing for my first
annual and contemplating moving the oil cooler from
the baffle as I've already had to re-work the baffle
due to crack/break from the vibration of the oil
cooler.
Question... how did you attach the cooler to the
mount? Pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> I have used the three BRW EZ Charger battery tenders I've had for over 20
> yrs on various planes, cars and motorcycles unattended and they work
well.
> They have reverse polarity protection, put out 13.3VDC and are two stage
600mA
> max and step down to 35mA unattended. I think they are still in business
and
> the last numbers I have for them are
> 312-369-5675 (and Tollfree 800-426-6008).
And here is their website :-) :
http://batterytender.com/
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/05 12:27:48 PM Pacific Standard Time, dcw@nomadwi.com
writes:
<< I used Van's low-tech pop rivet static ports and my a/s and altimeter
readings are dead accurate.
>>
Mine also! My simple minded thinking was that Van would have changed to
flush ports long ago if required for accuracy, but that's just me.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 1/13/05 3:07:02 PM Pacific Standard Time,
dane@mutualace.com writes:
<< Anyone have a better idea? >>
Use Van's pop rivet static ports, they work!
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 19
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| Subject: | Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell. The kits are super
tight
>in most regards but every once in a while I come across something like
the
>static ports that makes me stop and ask myself "REALLY?" I certainly
would
>like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
Well, I thought the same thing. I guess I didn't care for the pop rivet
and went with the flush port. I put it where Van recommended. It looks
better IMHO and, by the way, works just fine. My altimeter, ROC and AIS
are very accurate. I think AIS is the most telling. This is on the -4
and would be different probably on the other -s. I don't remember it
being $20 but it all blends in after a while.
How it works may have more to do with the placement than what you put
there. I have not seen a pop rivet or other protruding port on a
production or military aircraft. Unfortunately, you would have to
experiment to find another place and how do you do that? I'm not sure
what the answer is. It involves a little bit of builder luck, I suppose.
The static system is a system and involves all components working right,
including the pitot source. Hmmmmm. The debate rages.
Michael
RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>200hp IO 360 A1A. First Run. NDH, Cleaned, Painted, New Starter, Rings,
>scamshaft, Bearings, Exhaust Valves, Magnetos, etc, Log book. Not
>Certified,
>you assemble. $15000.00Canadian Dollars, $12400.00US dollars.
>1)How hard is it to rebuild one of these? About the same as a regular car
>engine I would imagine???
Not a lot different, but there are little tricks that will come back and
bite you if you don't follow the right course. Find a knowledgable,
experienced A&P who's rebuilt them to learn some of these tricks and tips.
>2)Where would I find a good, detailed, laymens manual on rebuilding these
>engines?
I bought one from Wag-Aero I believe. Look for Lycoming -320/-360 overhaul
manual. You'll need the parts manual too.
>3)What do you think of the price? Im a strong believer that if you arent
>getting something with a warranty you should get it very cheap to make up
>for the most sever of possibilities ie cracked case, cracked crank ect.
Sounds like it's in pieces... might be a problem with something like the
crank or case. Sounds pretty high $$ for a disassembled engine. What's new
and what's old? But I haven't been looking lately.
>4)What questions should I ask when I call?
Why is it in parts? What's damaged? What was it on? All logs available?
Sudden stoppage/prop strikes history? Crank flange runout? Cylinder bores?
Camshaft been ground? AD's complied with? What type of mags? What type
of fuel system? All parts available?
>I know most of us buy our engines already rebuilt buy reputable companies
>but I do believe the experimental category allows us to rebuild engines and
>use them as uncertified in experimental planes.
Yep. you could strap a Briggs & Stratten go-cart engine on if you wanted
to. I rebuilt mine and used a certified propeller combination. This got me
a 25 hr phase 1 test period. My buddy bought a brand spankin new O-360 and
a new Senesich metal prop and had to fly a 40-hr Phase 1. Just the way it
goes.
Bryan Jones
Houston
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Curious question (I haven't got there yet) ..... is there only one
static port or one on each side???
Linn
do not archive
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
The time has come......if you want RV-8 Grove aerodynamic gear
call NOW. They are starting production next week and it may be next year for
the next run. 13 sets are being made and I am # 4. There is only a couple
extra sets.
(The price has gone up $110)
RV-4
RV-8 QB....wings
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Curt" <choffman9@cinci.rr.com>
I can take some tonight or tomorrow and send. I haven't taken any with my
digital yet. All were with film. I'll send some tomorrow.
Curt Hoffman
----- Original Message -----
From: <Dwpetrus@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV-9A kit
> --> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
>
> do you have any pics to email of the kit and work done.
>
> thanks,
> Wayne Petrus
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Kosta Lewis wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
>
>
>
>>I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell. The kits are super
>>
>>
>tight
>
>
>>in most regards but every once in a while I come across something like
>>
>>
>the
>
>
>>static ports that makes me stop and ask myself "REALLY?" I certainly
>>
>>
>would
>
>
>>like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
>>
>>
>
>Well, I thought the same thing. I guess I didn't care for the pop rivet
>and went with the flush port. I put it where Van recommended. It looks
>better IMHO and, by the way, works just fine. My altimeter, ROC and AIS
>are very accurate. I think AIS is the most telling. This is on the -4
>and would be different probably on the other -s. I don't remember it
>being $20 but it all blends in after a while.
>
>How it works may have more to do with the placement than what you put
>there. I have not seen a pop rivet or other protruding port on a
>production or military aircraft. Unfortunately, you would have to
>experiment to find another place and how do you do that? I'm not sure
>what the answer is. It involves a little bit of builder luck, I suppose.
>
>The static system is a system and involves all components working right,
>including the pitot source. Hmmmmm. The debate rages.
>
>
>Michael
>RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
>
>
I think what most of you are missing is not what works and what does not
work but what the designer had in mind.
Yes we can use whatever we feel like using and each is entitled to do
so. Remember the RV series aircraft are
the "best bang for the buck" on the market, and this is only possible
because Van has taken the time to design an aircraft
that is reasonably fast and IMO looks very nice. YES he could use all
of the fanciest and newest expensive gadgets
and the nicest looking static port he could find but this was not his
mission. Van's mission and vision for RVs was to make
a safe, fast, fun AND AFFORDABLE airplane for the most people. IF he
had used all the best, great looking parts
money could buy I am not sure that I would have been able to afford to
built an airplane as great as an RV. I think that when a
lot of you complain about the "hokey" looking parts you are not taking
into account the affordable design mission Van had
when he designed the RV's. I know that $20 here and there is not a big
deal to a lot of you but I also
believe that there are a lot of you in the same boat as me that may not
be building or flying an RV if it were more expensive.
The pop rivet static ports works as well as any other static port and
helps keep the kit affordable. Rather than complain
that the parts are "hokey" just buy and use what you like.
Jerry(soon to be 16 years flying my hokey static port RV-6)Springer
PS Michael not picking on you just using your comments to add mine to
the thread :-)
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Linn,
There are two.
Jim in Kelowna
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: RV-List: static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Curious question (I haven't got there yet) ..... is there only one
> static port or one on each side???
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: > Re: Belly comm antenna |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
The antenna mounted between the gear legs should work OK. Possibly a little
shading by gear legs but you probably won't notice it.
I have a handheld "Rubber Ducky" antenna on the belly of our Rv-4, mounted
under the left step plate in front of the main spar. It works fine in all
the places I have flown. I have a second one mounted on the belly behind the
baggage compartment and it works fine too. It only takes a bulkhead BNC
connector to mount one of them and a cap to cover it if not used.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Gotta a link?
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
The time has come......if you want RV-8 Grove aerodynamic gear
call NOW. They are starting production next week and it may be next year
for
the next run. 13 sets are being made and I am # 4. There is only a couple
extra sets.
(The price has gone up $110)
RV-4
RV-8 QB....wings
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
Message 28
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| Subject: | Forum Web Address |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Last week a fellow posted link to a new forum for Kitplane builders. I
liked the forum and book marked it but alas the book mark is no more. Can
somone repost the link?
Thanks
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: Dwpetrus@aol.com
thanks, I will be expecting them.
Wayne
Message 30
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| Subject: | RE: Aluminum panel finish |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: emrath@comcast.net
I've seen a plane with a "tooled" look on the firewall. I believe this was done
with an angle air grinder and a Scotch Bright disk. The swirls were quarter circle
in size I think this was done by masking completed swirls. One could certainly
"experiment" and come up with something. Someone mentioned using Drano
as an acid etch. Got me to thinking, I've used Purple Power Cleaner from the Auto
store that might etch the surface and not be as aggressive an action and so
immersion might take longer.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 04:23:20 PM PST US
From: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
Subject: RV-List: aluminum panel finish
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
Wayne
S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
I've seen a plane with a "tooled" look on the firewall. I believe this was done
with an angle air grinder and a Scotch Bright disk. The swirls were quarter circle
in size I think this was done by masking completed swirls. One could certainly
"experiment" and come up with something. Someone mentioned using Drano
as an acid etch. Got me to thinking, I've used Purple Power Cleaner from the Auto
store that might etch the surface and not be as aggressive an action and so
immersion might take longer.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 04:23:20 PM PST US
From: "Wayne Pedersen" wayne@pedersentransport.com
Subject: RV-List: aluminum panel finish
-- RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" wayne@pedersentransport.com
I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in d
eburring. These need to be eliminated
before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
Wayne
S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/14/2005 4:29:28 PM Central Standard Time,
lwalters2@cfl.rr.com writes:
..... is there only one
static port or one on each side???
>>>
Both- just below the longeron about halfway between flap and HS- at least on
my -6A, that is...
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell.
>>>>
I for another just couldn't get a decent connection to the tube!
Take a stainless allen head screw (10-32), drill a #50 hole through it,
reshape the head to look just like a poprivet head, polish and install with a nut.
The threads hold a tube quite nicely with no additional fittings, just use
some sealant so there's no leakage past the threads (I used that miracle of all
adhesives, GOOP) Works great- less bandwidth...
Mark at The PossumWorks in TN
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: RE: Aluminum panel finish |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Please use caution with Draino and aluminum. The byproduct is hydrogen
gas. But then, you might come up with a new killer shape for the panel!!!
Linn
do not archive
emrath@comcast.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: emrath@comcast.net
>
>I've seen a plane with a "tooled" look on the firewall. I believe this was done
with an angle air grinder and a Scotch Bright disk. The swirls were quarter
circle in size I think this was done by masking completed swirls. One could certainly
"experiment" and come up with something. Someone mentioned using Drano
as an acid etch. Got me to thinking, I've used Purple Power Cleaner from the
Auto store that might etch the surface and not be as aggressive an action and
so immersion might take longer.
>
>Marty in Brentwood TN
>Time: 04:23:20 PM PST US
>From: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
>Subject: RV-List: aluminum panel finish
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
>
>I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
>high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
>
>Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
>panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
>it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in deburring. These need to be eliminated
>before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
>finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
>any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
>Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
>
>Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
>
>Wayne
>S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
>
>I've seen a plane with a "tooled" look on the firewall. I believe this was done
with an angle air grinder and a Scotch Bright disk. The swirls were quarter
circle in size I think this was done by masking completed swirls. One could certainly
"experiment" and come up with something. Someone mentioned using Drano
as an acid etch. Got me to thinking, I've used Purple Power Cleaner from the
Auto store that might etch the surface and not be as aggressive an action and
so immersion might take longer.
>
>Marty in Brentwood TN
>
>
>Time: 04:23:20 PM PST US
>From: "Wayne Pedersen" wayne@pedersentransport.com
>Subject: RV-List: aluminum panel finish
>
>-- RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" wayne@pedersentransport.com
>
>I seen a panel in a RV6a that was anodized in "clear". It gave the cockpit a
>high tech look and the pilot said that there was no issues with glare etc.
>
>Now here is my dilemma. Despite being extra careful cutting and shaping the
>panel I still managed to get a couple of scratches and "polished" areas on
>it were the scotchbrite pad hit it in d
> eburring. These need to be eliminated
>before anodizing or they will show through. I want to create a satin/brushed
>finish on the aluminum before anodizing but the anadizor couldn't give me
>any ideas how to do that. It there a procedure that I can use to create the
>Satin or brushed look on the aluminum?
>
>Thanks - remember this list hasn't failed me yet.....
>
>Wayne
>S.Alberta RV7a panel work in -35 weather
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 34
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|
| From: | "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com> |
| Subject: | Re: Grove RV-8 Gear |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Greg@itmack" <greg@itmack.com>
Are the standard axles, wheels and wheel pants used with the grove landing
gear?
>
> Gotta a link?
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
>
> The time has come......if you want RV-8 Grove aerodynamic gear
> call NOW. They are starting production next week and it may be next year
> for
> the next run. 13 sets are being made and I am # 4. There is only a couple
> extra sets.
> (The price has gone up $110)
>
>
> RV-4
> RV-8 QB....wings
>
> Sal Capra
> Lakeland, FL.
> My Home Page
>
>
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Take a look here to see if this helps with your decision:
http://www.aerosportpower.com/pricing.htm
These are good people to do business with.
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re:Oil cooler attached to engine mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Doug,
I just finished mine yesterday, pix under "photos" on left side. Go to
bottom and "select all" to see them. _http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/_
(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/)
You have to join the list to view them, but you can cancel afterward. HTH...
Jerry Cochran
In a message dated 1/14/2005 12:04:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Time: 05:10:23 PM PST US
From: "D. Jones" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler attached to engine mount
--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Jones" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
List,
Recently there was a discussion here about attaching
the oil cooler to the engine mount instead of the rear
baffle. There were even a couple of links showing the
cooler installed this way. I'm preparing for my first
annual and contemplating moving the oil cooler from
the baffle as I've already had to re-work the baffle
due to crack/break from the vibration of the oil
cooler.
Question... how did you attach the cooler to the
mount? Pictures would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Doug -7A
Message 37
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| Subject: | Forum Web Address |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Spicer" <spike@spikesplace.org>
Hmmm, was it for RV builders? www.rivetbangers.com is for RV builders
and is a little bit less known.
-- jrs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kevin Williams
Subject: RE: RV-List: Forum Web Address
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Last week a fellow posted link to a new forum for Kitplane builders. I
liked the forum and book marked it but alas the book mark is no more.
Can
somone repost the link?
Thanks
---
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Evan and Megan Johnson" <evmeg@snowcrest.net>
Please do not misunderstand me guys....I think my RV 10 kit is absolutely
wonderful! The engineering is spectacular and I have yet to have a part not
just snap right into place. The very few items I am electing to change are
all for purely cosmetic reasons and my vanity. I chose to change the static
ports because I like the hardware better and I think this airframe deserves
it. While I do understand that the pennies add up to the dollars I feel like
this was well spent and fairly insignificant in the scope of this project.
My target budget is 70 to 80 thousand by the time its finished and I will be
proud if it comes in there. The place I am really going to control myself is
the panel :)
Build on....and thanks for all of the great information.
Evan Johnson
www.evansaviationproducts.com
(530)247-0375
(530)351-1776 cell
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Cleveland static ports
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
>
> Kosta Lewis wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Kosta Lewis" <mikel@dimensional.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >>I for one think the pop rivet looks hokey as hell. The kits are super
> >>
> >>
> >tight
> >
> >
> >>in most regards but every once in a while I come across something like
> >>
> >>
> >the
> >
> >
> >>static ports that makes me stop and ask myself "REALLY?" I certainly
> >>
> >>
> >would
> >
> >
> >>like to know why a flush port would not work as well as a pop rivet.
> >>
> >>
> >
> >Well, I thought the same thing. I guess I didn't care for the pop rivet
> >and went with the flush port. I put it where Van recommended. It looks
> >better IMHO and, by the way, works just fine. My altimeter, ROC and AIS
> >are very accurate. I think AIS is the most telling. This is on the -4
> >and would be different probably on the other -s. I don't remember it
> >being $20 but it all blends in after a while.
> >
> >How it works may have more to do with the placement than what you put
> >there. I have not seen a pop rivet or other protruding port on a
> >production or military aircraft. Unfortunately, you would have to
> >experiment to find another place and how do you do that? I'm not sure
> >what the answer is. It involves a little bit of builder luck, I suppose.
> >
> >The static system is a system and involves all components working right,
> >including the pitot source. Hmmmmm. The debate rages.
> >
> >
> >Michael
> >RV-4 N232 Suzie Q
> >
> >
> I think what most of you are missing is not what works and what does not
> work but what the designer had in mind.
> Yes we can use whatever we feel like using and each is entitled to do
> so. Remember the RV series aircraft are
> the "best bang for the buck" on the market, and this is only possible
> because Van has taken the time to design an aircraft
> that is reasonably fast and IMO looks very nice. YES he could use all
> of the fanciest and newest expensive gadgets
> and the nicest looking static port he could find but this was not his
> mission. Van's mission and vision for RVs was to make
> a safe, fast, fun AND AFFORDABLE airplane for the most people. IF he
> had used all the best, great looking parts
> money could buy I am not sure that I would have been able to afford to
> built an airplane as great as an RV. I think that when a
> lot of you complain about the "hokey" looking parts you are not taking
> into account the affordable design mission Van had
> when he designed the RV's. I know that $20 here and there is not a big
> deal to a lot of you but I also
> believe that there are a lot of you in the same boat as me that may not
> be building or flying an RV if it were more expensive.
> The pop rivet static ports works as well as any other static port and
> helps keep the kit affordable. Rather than complain
> that the parts are "hokey" just buy and use what you like.
>
> Jerry(soon to be 16 years flying my hokey static port RV-6)Springer
>
> PS Michael not picking on you just using your comments to add mine to
> the thread :-)
>
>
Message 39
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| Subject: | Rod end bearings - Loc-tite or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
I'm doing a final fit of my elevators to the HS and I'm wondering if I should loc-tite
the nut on the rod end bearing. I didn't use anything for the rod end
bearing to the plate nut since it's so tight anyway. Should I have?
Thanks!
Karie Daniel
RV-7A QB
Sammamish, WA.
Message 40
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| Subject: | Re: Rod end bearings - Loc-tite or not |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I just put anti-sabotage (finger nail polish) overlapping the nut/bolt and
check it on preflight to see if the nut is backing off. Locknuts shouldnt
come loose anyway.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: Rod end bearings - Loc-tite or not
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Karie Daniel" <karie4@comcast.net>
>
> I'm doing a final fit of my elevators to the HS and I'm wondering if I
> should loc-tite the nut on the rod end bearing. I didn't use anything for
> the rod end bearing to the plate nut since it's so tight anyway. Should I
> have?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Karie Daniel
> RV-7A QB
> Sammamish, WA.
>
>
>
Message 41
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| Subject: | Forum Web Address |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
>Last week a fellow posted link to a new forum for Kitplane builders. I
>liked the forum and book marked it but alas the book mark is no more. Can
>somone repost the link?
I've seen pointers to two newish forums lately:
1. Van's Air Force World Wide Wing Forum -
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/index.php
The VAF WWW Forum is part of the VAF WWW web site, and is hosted by Doug
Reeves, who is running a large number of RV related Yahoo e-mail
groups. It is RV only. It it getting a fair bit of traffic, and it looks
like a winner.
2. Wings Forum - http://www.wingsforum.com/
The Wings Forum is aimed at all types of homebuilt aircraft, with specific
sections for different families, and sections for things that are common to
all types. This one is in its early days, and its too early to say whether
it will reach critical mass or not. I volunteered to moderate the Flight
Test forum. The Flight Test forum is certainly glacial, as the only two
posts were made by myself. But, if you have any flight testing issues to
discuss, and prefer a web forum, I welcome your questions.
Message 42
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness attach
points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should be. They have
a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together flush. They
way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone else found this?
Oh yeah, and the lap belt mounting points on the harness have a bushing that
really spreads the attach points on the plane. Im wondering if I should drill
out the plane attach points to allow the bushing to fit through.
On the same subject, for anyone considering installing a crotch strap, make sure
you install them forward enough so they wont come up through your cushion.
I thought I was forward enough but it turns out the buckle has to come forward
on top of the seat pan and under the cushion before it comes up to meet the lap
belt. This keeps the buckle under the cushion and makes it a pain in the a@#
to adjust.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 43
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| Subject: | Re:Oil cooler attached to engine mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Where did you get that shroud for your oil cooler? I've been looking
for something like that but can't find anything.
Jerry2DT@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
>
>
>Doug,
>
>I just finished mine yesterday, pix under "photos" on left side. Go to
>bottom and "select all" to see them. _http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/_
>(http://groups.yahoo.com/group/XP-360Forum/)
>You have to join the list to view them, but you can cancel afterward. HTH...
>
>Jerry Cochran
>
>In a message dated 1/14/2005 12:04:23 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
>
>Time: 05:10:23 PM PST US
>From: "D. Jones" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Oil cooler attached to engine mount
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "D. Jones" <dljinia@yahoo.com>
>
>List,
>Recently there was a discussion here about attaching
>the oil cooler to the engine mount instead of the rear
>baffle. There were even a couple of links showing the
>cooler installed this way. I'm preparing for my first
>annual and contemplating moving the oil cooler from
>the baffle as I've already had to re-work the baffle
>due to crack/break from the vibration of the oil
>cooler.
>
>Question... how did you attach the cooler to the
>mount? Pictures would be appreciated.
>
>Thanks,
>Doug -7A
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
Message 44
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: mark manda <mark2nite@yahoo.com>
As soon as I saw the cheesy static port for the 7a I
tossed it. Not on this nice of an airplane.
The allen head screw sounds good and I did a similar
mod with a small c.s. screw,drilled and tightened it
with a nut and tube fit fine. Flush.
Take a stainless allen head screw (10-32), drill a
> #50 hole through it,
> reshape the head to look just like a poprivet head,
> polish and install with a nut.
> The threads hold a tube quite nicely with no
> additional fittings, just use
> some sealant so there's no leakage past the threads
> (I used that miracle of all
> adhesives, GOOP) Works great- less bandwidth...
>
> Mark at The PossumWorks in TN
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Message 45
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| Subject: | Re: static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>Curious question (I haven't got there yet) ..... is there only one
>static port or one on each side???
>Linn
A single static port could work quite fine, if you always had the ball
centred (or more accurately, had zero sideslip, which is not quite the same
thing in a single-engine prop-driven aircraft). But, if you ever develop
some sideslip, the airflow pattern around the rear fuselage changes, and
that screws up the accuracy of the static port. If you have two ports, the
one on the other side will see approximately the opposite pressure
change. If we connect the two ports to the static system with a T fitting,
the higher pressure on one will cancel out the lower pressure on the
other. There will be some airflow from one port to the other, if the
sideslip causes one to be in a higher pressure area than the other. The
pressure at the mid-point of the line between the two ports will be the
average of the pressures at each port. This means that the T that connects
the two ports to the main static line should be in the mid-point of the
line between the two ports.
Kevin Horton
RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 46
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| Subject: | Re: Grove RV-8 Gear |
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
In a message dated 1/14/05 6:39:44 PM Eastern Standard Time,
kevinsky18@hotmail.com writes:
> Gotta a link?
>
>
>
Grove Aircraft Company - Aluminum Landing Gear
http://www.groveaircraft.com/landing_gear.html
Yes the stock wheels and axles are used.
The Aero gear do not require gear leag fearings and
are finished alum with the brake line drilled through the
center of the gear. Also saves weight
They aint cheap....they sure are pretty though.
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL
My Home Page
http://hometown.aol.com/cbrxxdrv/index.html
Message 47
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| Subject: | Re: RV-Static Ports was Cleveland Static Ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: EMAproducts@aol.com
Static Ports are exactly like Real Estate ~~
Location, Location, Location
No matter how expensive or non-expensive, the location is the important
factor! The major companies spend many dollars getting the correct location for
the static source.
Two, one on each side at the location suggested by the designer is the best
bet. The static source must also be the same distance from fuselage skin as
the designer suggests. With only one, if you are slipping or skidding just a
very little will make a BIG difference. Try it!
We have been experimenting with a combined pitot & AOA mount and are finally
ready for production, but the static will remain where the designer wanted it!
One of my customers has been doing research trying to relocate the static
source for their aircraft kits, lots of work, and still not completed after
nearly a year!
Elbie Mendenhall
EM Aviation
www.riteangle.com
Message 48
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Jeff,
Are you sure you don't have the left/right shoulder harnesses on backwards?
Try swapping them over your shoulders and they should fit perfectly. I have
hookers in both my -6's and they work fine.
Oh, and don't forget to simply grind down those bushings to fit!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
Subject: RV-List: Hooker harness
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness
attach points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should be.
They have a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together
flush. They way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone
else found this? Oh yeah, and the lap belt mounting points on the harness
have a bushing that really spreads the attach points on the plane. Im
wondering if I should drill out the plane attach points to allow the bushing
to fit through.
On the same subject, for anyone considering installing a crotch strap, make
sure you install them forward enough so they wont come up through your
cushion. I thought I was forward enough but it turns out the buckle has to
come forward on top of the seat pan and under the cushion before it comes up
to meet the lap belt. This keeps the buckle under the cushion and makes it
a pain in the a@# to adjust.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
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