Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:35 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Andrew Douglas)
2. 06:36 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
3. 07:03 AM - Static ports - rivets too short? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 07:47 AM - Re: Hooker harness (Jeff Dowling)
5. 08:34 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Dan Checkoway)
6. 09:12 AM - Re: Static ports - rivets too short? (Mickey Coggins)
7. 09:44 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Richard McCraw)
8. 11:50 AM - Re: static ports (HCRV6@aol.com)
9. 12:05 PM - Re: Hooker harness (HCRV6@aol.com)
10. 12:11 PM - Re: Hooker harness (HCRV6@aol.com)
11. 12:25 PM - Re: Oil cooler attached to engine mount (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
12. 01:42 PM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Dave Bristol)
13. 03:04 PM - Wingwalk material (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
14. 04:21 PM - Minimum Realistic Field Length ()
15. 04:22 PM - Zenith for Sale?? ()
16. 05:35 PM - Re: Wing walk material (GMC)
17. 05:50 PM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
18. 05:59 PM - Re: Wingwalk material (Larry Bowen)
19. 06:11 PM - Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length (Jim Cimino)
20. 06:20 PM - Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length (Nels Hanson)
21. 06:20 PM - Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (Matt Johnson)
22. 06:55 PM - Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length (Scott VanArtsdalen)
23. 07:00 PM - Re: Wingwalk material (Scott VanArtsdalen)
24. 07:26 PM - Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length (Stein Bruch)
25. 08:07 PM - Re: Wing walk material (Doug Weiler)
26. 08:19 PM - Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: message from valid local sender) (J D Newsum)
27. 08:32 PM - Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Dan Checkoway)
28. 08:45 PM - Re: Wing walk material (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
29. 08:46 PM - cutting teflon hose (sarg314)
30. 08:47 PM - Re: Wingwalk material (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
31. 08:56 PM - HS404 Notch (MLWynn@aol.com)
32. 09:05 PM - Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: message ... (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
33. 09:42 PM - Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length (linn walters)
34. 09:43 PM - Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length (Kevin Horton)
35. 10:56 PM - BlueSky Aviation (Mike Comeaux)
36. 11:04 PM - Re: cutting teflon hose (Mike Nellis)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
Doing the actual rebuild/assembly isn't all that difficult. There are some
unusual bits if you have no experience...such as using a silk thread
between the case halves to prevent leaks (saw this on a rebuild video shot
at Mattituck). There also are some special tools you'll need, so don't
forget to add those to the cost of the engine. But the actual procedures
aren't fundamentally different from those you use for a car engine. You're
still torquing bolts, pre-lubing parts, compressing rings, setting timing,
etc. etc.
The big problem is the parts. Aircraft engine parts fail differently than
auto engine parts do. Cylinders crack, for example, often in such a way that
you cannot see the problem with the naked eye. A good shop will magnaflux or
zyglo inspect the parts to determine if they're okay. A fly-by-night
operation may not, or worse, may simply say that they have.
What I'm saying here is that if you, having no specific knowledge of
airplane engines, show up and see this nice-looking pile of FRESHLY PAINTED
(there's an alarm bell!) parts, you won't be able to tell just by looking at
them if they're any good or not. Just asking the seller if they're okay in
no way guarantees that they are in fact serviceable. Caveat emptor.
Since having a reliable engine can literally be a life-or-death matter, does
it not make sense to be patient, put some more money in the bank and just
buy one from a reputable, expert shop with a long track record (e.g.
Mattituck, Penn Yan, etc.)?
I'm just a casual wrench-spinner, confident enough in my own ability to feel
comfortable assembling something like an engine. But an engine assembled by
me (who has never rebuilt an airplane engine) from parts of unknown and
unproven quality is not something I'd want to trust my life to.
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/14/05 11:35:53 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
kevinsky18@hotmail.com writes:
I found a 200hp IO 360 A1A advertised for sale. The ad reads.
200hp IO 360 A1A. First Run. NDH, Cleaned, Painted, New Starter, Rings,
scamshaft, Bearings, Exhaust Valves, Magnetos, etc, Log book. Not Certified,
you assemble. $15000.00Canadian Dollars, $12400.00US dollars.
Kevin,
If I had it to do over again, I would not use the angle valve engine -- its
too heavy.
Dan Hopper
Walton Indiana USA (Go Colts!)
RV-7A N766 dh
IO-360-C1E6 converted to -A1B6 (this is like the -A1A except it has
counterweights)
Flying since July but not since December!
Message 3
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| Subject: | Static ports - rivets too short? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
I used Van's pop rivets and the static system seems to work OK. The only
problem I had was that the rivets were too short. There was only about 1/8
inch to put the plastic line over. I wish the rivets were about 1/2 inch long.
Were they just out of the longer rivets when they shipped my kit?
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A - Flying
N766DH
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I have the pads and buckles on top. If I cross them over, they will be
criss crossed with the pads upside down and the buckles into my chest. Is
your white identifying label stitched into the harness facing up or down. I
may be able to simply pull the ends out of the buckles and switch em.
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Hooker harness
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Hi Jeff,
>
> Are you sure you don't have the left/right shoulder harnesses on
> backwards?
> Try swapping them over your shoulders and they should fit perfectly. I
> have
> hookers in both my -6's and they work fine.
>
> Oh, and don't forget to simply grind down those bushings to fit!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jeff Dowling
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Hooker harness
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness
> attach points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should be.
> They have a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together
> flush. They way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone
> else found this? Oh yeah, and the lap belt mounting points on the harness
> have a bushing that really spreads the attach points on the plane. Im
> wondering if I should drill out the plane attach points to allow the
> bushing
> to fit through.
>
> On the same subject, for anyone considering installing a crotch strap,
> make
> sure you install them forward enough so they wont come up through your
> cushion. I thought I was forward enough but it turns out the buckle has
> to
> come forward on top of the seat pan and under the cushion before it comes
> up
> to meet the lap belt. This keeps the buckle under the cushion and makes
> it
> a pain in the a@# to adjust.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 150 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> If I had it to do over again, I would not use the angle valve engine --
its
> too heavy.
Dan, I would love to hear your expanded thoughts on this. I come from the
other side of the fence (200+hp or bust!), and I'm curious what your
experience has been. Not trying to argue in any way, just rare that you
hear what you just said, and it's got my attention!
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Static ports - rivets too short? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Mine were about the same as yours. I didn't know there were
longer ones. I used a zip tie on there to clamp down on
the tubing.
Mickey
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> I used Van's pop rivets and the static system seems to work OK. The only
> problem I had was that the rivets were too short. There was only about 1/8
> inch to put the plastic line over. I wish the rivets were about 1/2 inch long.
> Were they just out of the longer rivets when they shipped my kit?
>
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A - Flying
> N766DH
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 7
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| Subject: | How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw@s4t.net>
Hmm -- I'm not sure I'd want an engine that came with a "scamshaft." :-)
Rick
RV-7 emp
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/14/05 11:35:53 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
kevinsky18@hotmail.com writes:
I found a 200hp IO 360 A1A advertised for sale. The ad reads.
200hp IO 360 A1A. First Run. NDH, Cleaned, Painted, New Starter, Rings,
scamshaft, Bearings, Exhaust Valves, Magnetos, etc, Log book. Not
Certified,
you assemble. $15000.00Canadian Dollars, $12400.00US dollars.
Kevin,
If I had it to do over again, I would not use the angle valve engine -- its
too heavy.
Dan Hopper
Walton Indiana USA (Go Colts!)
RV-7A N766 dh
IO-360-C1E6 converted to -A1B6 (this is like the -A1A except it has
counterweights)
Flying since July but not since December!
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 1/14/05 2:29:28 PM Pacific Standard Time,
lwalters2@cfl.rr.com writes:
<< one on each side >>
Yes.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!!!
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 1/14/05 9:09:49 PM Pacific Standard Time,
shempdowling@earthlink.net writes:
<< I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness
attach points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should be. They
have a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together flush.
They way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone else found
this?
Shemp: I have Hookers in my RV-6 and noticed early on that it was easy
to get the shoulder harness crossed so that they seemed to interfere. I just
rotate them at the point they attach to the cable and no longer have a problem.
<< Oh yeah, and the lap belt mounting points on the harness have a bushing
that really spreads the attach points on the plane. Im wondering if I should
drill out the plane attach points to allow the bushing to fit through. >>
I filed the bushings so that there was just enough still allow the belt clip
to rotate in the attach points when the blot was tightened. Seems to work
well.
<< On the same subject, for anyone considering installing a crotch strap,
make sure you install them forward enough so they wont come up through your
cushion. I thought I was forward enough but it turns out the buckle has to come
forward on top of the seat pan and under the cushion before it comes up to meet
the lap belt. This keeps the buckle under the cushion and makes it a pain in
the a@# to adjust. >>
Yes. With my Cleveland seats DJ puts a slot for the crotch to poke through
and it is a real pain to adjust. Fortunately I find that I never have to
adjust the crotch strap once it is set correctly. It is a nuisance to remove the
seats, however.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 1/15/05 8:10:29 AM Pacific Standard Time,
shempdowling@earthlink.net writes:
<< white identifying label stitched into the harness facing up >>
I'm pretty sure that is correct but I'll check today and let you know.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!!!
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Oil cooler attached to engine mount |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Scott,
I laid it up from carbon fibre. Fun, but too time consuming. I'll probably
go with aluminum for the one coming off the baffle. If you want to make one out
of carbon or glass, email me directly and I can maybe help.
Jerry Cochran
jerry2dt@aol.com
Time: 09:27:54 PM PST US
From: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re:Oil cooler attached to engine mount
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Where did you get that shroud for your oil cooler? I've been looking
for something like that but can't find anything.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Think that should have read "scramshaft"- I hear they're very fast! 8>)
Dave
no not archive
Richard McCraw wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw@s4t.net>
>
>Hmm -- I'm not sure I'd want an engine that came with a "scamshaft." :-)
>
>Rick
>RV-7 emp
>
>Do not archive
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Hopperdhh@aol.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 1/14/05 11:35:53 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
>kevinsky18@hotmail.com writes:
>
>
>I found a 200hp IO 360 A1A advertised for sale. The ad reads.
>
>200hp IO 360 A1A. First Run. NDH, Cleaned, Painted, New Starter, Rings,
>scamshaft, Bearings, Exhaust Valves, Magnetos, etc, Log book. Not
>Certified,
>you assemble. $15000.00Canadian Dollars, $12400.00US dollars.
>
>
>Kevin,
>
>If I had it to do over again, I would not use the angle valve engine -- its
>
>too heavy.
>
>Dan Hopper
>Walton Indiana USA (Go Colts!)
>RV-7A N766 dh
>IO-360-C1E6 converted to -A1B6 (this is like the -A1A except it has
>counterweights)
>Flying since July but not since December!
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Wingwalk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy folks-
I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some grey
wingwalks out there- sources please?
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/in
dex.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
Thanks!
Mark
Message 14
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| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A, O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a 1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help, Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 15
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| Subject: | Zenith for Sale?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Do Not Archive Sorry to waste list bandwidth on this.... I inquired recently about
"easy" LSA kitplanes for my father. Someone replied to me off-line that
they had a Zenith kit for sale. I deleted the email, but would be interested
in getting back in touch with said person. Please contact me off line if you
are still on the list. Thanks,Scott
Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
The most personalized portal on the Web!
Message 16
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| Subject: | Wing walk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Have you investigated anti-slip material for diving boards and motor home
steps?
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy folks-
I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some
grey
wingwalks out there- sources please?
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/
in
dex.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
Thanks!
Mark
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Richard McCraw wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw@s4t.net>
>
>Hmm -- I'm not sure I'd want an engine that came with a "scamshaft." :-)
>
>Rick
>RV-7 emp
>
>
>
It should come with a Spamshaft shouldn't it?
Phil in Illinois, sure glad I have an airplane to fly.......
Do not archive....
Message 18
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| Subject: | Wingwalk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I've heard others complain that non-black wing-walk material shows dirt too
easily and is very hard or impossible to clean.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Fiveonepw@aol.com [mailto:Fiveonepw@aol.com]
> Sent: Saturday, January 15, 2005 5:04 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Wingwalk material
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> Howdy folks-
>
> I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk
> material. Anyone tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I
> also seem to recall seeing some grey wingwalks out there-
> sources please?
>
> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=96
> 91~subid=2565/in
> dex.html
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
>
> Thanks!
> Mark
>
>
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
The airplane will be able to do 1400', we have flown in and out of 1200'
with a fixed-pitched O-320 RV-6. It is up to you.
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
----- Original Message -----
From: <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
> --> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home
(building withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities.
I would be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum
safe runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would
like to hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be
a 7A, O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of
(never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'.
Would a 1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side
(go-around if things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks
for the help, Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Nels Hanson <pa201950@yahoo.com>
At 1,400 ft.,it doesn't depend on the plane,it depends
on the pilot-period. Practice,practice,practice on
longer grass strips marked off so you know what you
can do. The airplane is a constant,the pilot is the
large variable.
--- <tx_jayhawk@excite.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: ""
> <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I
> look for a home (building withdrawl), I have been
> evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
> be interested in hearing from others what they
> believe the minimum safe runway lenth would be. I
> know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
> hear from others with experience. For
> reference...the plane with be a 7A, O360, with FP
> prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of
> (never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field
> elevation is approx 1000'. Would a 1400' runway be
> doable? I know it would be on the short side
> (go-around if things don't look just right), but
> would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
> Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
>
> Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com
> The most personalized portal on the Web!
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 21
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| Subject: | Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Dear Sirs,
I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
something.
On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
while doing this?
- Matt Johnson
http://www.rv7a.com
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I would say that once you got your short field landings down pat, it
would be managable. They stop fairly quickly once you get the wheels
planted. You'll find it wanst to float. Just practice a lot and I
think that 1400 feet would be fine.
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A, O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a 1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help, Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Wingwalk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I bought some medium gray anti-skid stuff at the local hardware store.
It was on a roll and they just cut a bunch off for me. It sticks REALLY
well.
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Howdy folks-
>
>I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
>tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some grey
>wingwalks out there- sources please?
>
>http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/in
>dex.html
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
>
>Thanks!
>Mark
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to keep
the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches). I fly a
similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer and can always
(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going my
way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
need be.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
tx_jayhawk@excite.com
Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building
withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dcw@nomadwi.com>
I previously owned an RV-4 with the clear wing walk material. It had
yellowed (even though the airplane bad been hangared) and look pretty bad
after about 5 years. I removed and installed a nice black wing walk.
Looked much better.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW
>
> Howdy folks-
>
> I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
> tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some
> grey
> wingwalks out there- sources please?
>
> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/
> in
> dex.html
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: |
message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
Matt
I just completed this task on RV6 wings. Take a look at the "Routing of
wires and tubes in the Wing" in the Construction FAQ section at
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm
This article should pretty much answer all your questions.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
Subject: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not
processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Dear Sirs,
I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
something.
On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
while doing this?
- Matt Johnson
http://www.rv7a.com
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: |
message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Low and aft is my recommendation. Van's has a Construction FAQ about this:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Wiring.pdf
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed:
message from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> Dear Sirs,
>
> I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
> conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
> the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
> mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
> looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
> for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
> one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
> not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
> something.
>
> On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
> the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
> AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
> anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
> while doing this?
>
> - Matt Johnson
> http://www.rv7a.com
>
>
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/15/2005 7:59:59 PM Central Standard Time,
gmcnutt@shaw.ca writes:
Have you investigated anti-slip material for diving boards and motor home
steps?
>>>
Good suggestion- I'll have to dust off the West Marine catalog!
Thanks - do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | cutting teflon hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I have some stainless steel braided teflon hose that I'll be using for
oil and fuel. Is it OK to use a dremel cut-off disk to cut this type of
hose?
--
Thanks,
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Wingwalk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/15/2005 8:20:31 PM Central Standard Time,
Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
I've heard others complain that non-black wing-walk material shows dirt too
easily and is very hard or impossible to clean.
>>>>
Yeah, there was some stuff in the archives about that- kinda hoping some of
the newer stuff was "new & improved"....
Mark do not archive
Message 31
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi folks,
I was on page 6-2, preparing the ribs. It says, "notch the aft end of HS-404
ribs to fit around HS-810 & HS-814." In doing so, I cut a little too much
metal and don't have a flush fit. Is this critical (i.e., do I send to Vans for
new HS-404's and start over)? The line that was supposed to be flush against
810 & 814 is not particularly straight and has as much as 2mm gap. I did this
fiasco by first drillin a small hole at what I thought would be the corner of
the notch and then cutting with snips. Done over, I would use a much smaller
drill bit and a band saw.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Starting the empennage
EAA 0219782
AOPA 665085
San Ramon, California
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: message |
...
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/15/2005 8:41:41 PM Central Standard Time,
matt@n559rv.com writes:
I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
something.
>>>>>>
I made a simple jig that held each rib firmly in the same position- a short
piece of 2x12 with wood blocks nailed at several places around the edge of the
rib. I clamped this to the table of my drill press and used a step drill to
make each hole in the same location, production line style. Mine are about 2"
behind the spar, about 1" below the top skin (-6A). Took about 10 minutes to
drill all the ribs for each wing. The holes were sized for a single length of
5/8 CPVC. Installing the CPVC took about 5 seconds (chamfer the end you
insert- slips right through) Once the wires are shoved through (another couple
of
minutes), and the tube is just where ya want it, GOOP the outer end to the
end rib and move on to other stuff...
My tips house the typical landing/taxi/postion and strobe lights (including
the power supplies), and the right wingtip also has the Navaid wing leveler
servo- still lots of room for antenna wire if desired.
Fotos if interested-
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Stein Bruch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
>
>Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
>carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to keep
>the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches). I fly a
>similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer and can always
>(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going my
>way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
>need be.
>
>Just my 2 cents.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis
>
Worth a heck of a lot more than 2 cents!!! No face lost in a go around
..... but sometimes much face lost trying to salvage a poor approach.
Nobody seems to remember your good landings .... but they never forget
your bad ones .... and keep reminding you. Sheesh. And these are your
friends too!!! Just no respect. What's a fella to do??
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>tx_jayhawk@excite.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building
>withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
>be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
>runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
>hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
>O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
>heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
>1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
>things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
>Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
Plan on doing your initial flight testing off a longer strip, and
don't land at your strip until you have mastered the aircraft.
Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
>
>Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
>carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to keep
>the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches). I fly a
>similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer and can always
>(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going my
>way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
>need be.
>
>Just my 2 cents.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>tx_jayhawk@excite.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building
>withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
>be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
>runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
>hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
>O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
>heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
>1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
>things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
>Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | BlueSky Aviation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
I would like to share my story regarding Bluesky Aviation Aka Noel Simmons to any
and all
interested parties. I have pictures during final construction to back up my claims
& repairs
that had to be done to correct what he had done to my airplane and charged me for.
I was
hoping to reach the 10 & 9 list can anyone confirm off list if I reached you as
well.
Regards
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux@bendnet.com
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: cutting teflon hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
Yes. Wrap the ends you plan to cut with electrical tape and cut em
off. We used to make lots of brake lines and used a similar tool to do
the job. I don't recommend a hacksaw, makes a mess of the ends.
--
Mike Nellis
Austin, TX
CMRA #32 Honda RC51
'97 YZF1000
'47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage)
http://bmnellis.com
sarg314 wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I have some stainless steel braided teflon hose that I'll be using for
>oil and fuel. Is it OK to use a dremel cut-off disk to cut this type of
>hose?
>--
>Thanks,
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
>
>
>
>
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