Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:36 AM - Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (Mickey Coggins)
2. 12:36 AM - Re: cutting teflon hose (Jim Jewell)
3. 07:47 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 07:59 AM - Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length (Paul Besing)
5. 08:36 AM - Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
6. 08:55 AM - Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: m... (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
7. 08:57 AM - Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (Bob Collins)
8. 09:00 AM - Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (Matt Johnson)
9. 09:00 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Darwin N. Barrie)
10. 09:30 AM - Final Inspection? (bertrv6@highstream.net)
11. 09:40 AM - Re: Wing walk material ()
12. 09:52 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
13. 10:49 AM - Re: Hooker harness (Larry Olson)
14. 10:53 AM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Jerry Springer)
15. 10:54 AM - Re: Wingwalk material (Dave Mader)
16. 11:02 AM - Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (Jeff Dowling)
17. 11:27 AM - Re: Final Inspection? (Larry Bowen)
18. 11:28 AM - Re: Wingwalk material (Denis Walsh)
19. 11:34 AM - Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length (Brian Denk)
20. 11:43 AM - Re: battery charging ()
21. 12:40 PM - Re: Wingwalk material (Jim Oke)
22. 02:30 PM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Mickey Coggins)
23. 03:46 PM - Re: Final Inspection? (RV6 Flyer)
24. 04:09 PM - . Re: Cutting teflon Hose (Oldsfolks@aol.com)
25. 04:38 PM - Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M (Joe & Jan Connell)
26. 06:24 PM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Terry Watson)
27. 06:24 PM - Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve (Jason Sneed)
28. 06:47 PM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Jim Jewell)
29. 06:51 PM - Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M (John Furey)
30. 07:09 PM - heated pitot (Gar Pessel)
31. 07:15 PM - Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M (Stein Bruch)
32. 08:40 PM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (RV6 Flyer)
33. 08:58 PM - Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A (Mike Nellis)
34. 09:06 PM - Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M (Randy Lervold)
35. 09:13 PM - Interior paint recommendation (Kelly Patterson)
36. 09:19 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (Charlie England)
37. 09:26 PM - Re: static ports (Mark Schrimmer)
38. 09:27 PM - Re: battery charging - better charger? (David Carter)
39. 10:05 PM - Re: Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve (Dave Bristol)
40. 10:15 PM - Re: Wingwalk material (John Danielson)
41. 10:45 PM - Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M (Terry Watson)
42. 11:54 PM - Re: Cleveland static ports (mark manda)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Here is how I did it:
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041026231058140
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041214233000234
Stuff that I've run through there are:
1) position lights
2) strobe wires (rather fat bundle)
3) landing/taxi lights
4) 2 x 1/8" AOA plastic tubing
Still to come may be the EFIS magnometer wires, unless
I put them in the fuselage.
Mickey
Matt Johnson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> Dear Sirs,
>
> I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
> conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
> the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
> mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
> looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
> for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
> one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
> not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
> something.
>
> On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
> the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
> AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
> anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
> while doing this?
>
> - Matt Johnson
> http://www.rv7a.com
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: cutting teflon hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Tom,
I watched a pro cut some with a cutting wheel in a chopsaw. I came home and
got out the dremel, worked just fine. I only broke a few cutting discs, Per
hose {;-)
Use a couple of wraps of masking tape tightly over the cut point so that the
wire does not fray too much. (saves the fingers from those nasty little wire
stabs for one thing)
Another wrap of tape wrapped once around so that it's edges line up at the
cut point will help get a straight cut. Be sure to carefully clean out the
hose. Remove the tape when assembling the hose and fittings.
Tape over the fitting ends (cover) untill the hose is to be installed.
Happy hosing {[;-)
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: cutting teflon hose
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I have some stainless steel braided teflon hose that I'll be using for
> oil and fuel. Is it OK to use a dremel cut-off disk to cut this type of
> hose?
> --
> Thanks,
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/15/05 11:56:29 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
> If I had it to do over again, I would not use the angle valve engine --
its
> too heavy.
Dan, I would love to hear your expanded thoughts on this. I come from the
other side of the fence (200+hp or bust!), and I'm curious what your
experience has been. Not trying to argue in any way, just rare that you
hear what you just said, and it's got my attention!
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
_http://www.rvproject.com_ (http://www.rvproject.com)
Dan C,
The airplane flies fine. I am told by some at Van's that it would fly
better if it were lighter and not so nose heavy. Although that may have some
advantage in that I can haul more baggage before it gets tail heavy. Also, the
cowling didn't fit very well. I had to raise it up to clear the front
cylinder heads, and that caused a step behind the spinner on top. Could have
done a
bunch of fiberglass work to correct that. I just feel like the parallel
valves would be a better approach. I usually cruise at 23/23 to conserve fuel
and avoid the vibration. BTW, I have had it dynamically balanced. I like the
power too, but I could live with less. Well, maybe not! It certainly is
impressive to leave the ground and point the nose up at about a 30 degree angle
and just keep climbing!
Regards,
Dan H.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Amen to that. I was flying off of a 5,000 foot runway on my first flight.
Damn near used all of it on the first landing. Almost had to go around.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kevin Horton
Subject: RE: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
Plan on doing your initial flight testing off a longer strip, and
don't land at your strip until you have mastered the aircraft.
Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
>
>Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
>carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to keep
>the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches). I fly a
>similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer and can
always
>(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going
my
>way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
>need be.
>
>Just my 2 cents.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>tx_jayhawk@excite.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home
(building
>withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
>be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
>runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
>hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
>O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
>heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
>1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
>things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
>Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
Follow Kevins advice and as someone else said , practice on a longer field
to be sure you can do the landing the SAME way every time.
I practiced on an airport with 800' to the turnoff , and when I could stop
by the turn-off , I practiced some more. I fly from our 1100' grass strip
with 150 HP/ wood prop RV-4 - solo only. I think it would get my wife and me
out BUT those odds aren't good enough to put us at risk.
Be safe and fly happy.
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: |
m...
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
MATT, WE PUT THE BOB ARCHER NAV ANTENNA IN THE WING TIP AND WORKED FINE.
ALSO RAN A STRING IN CASE WE NEEDED TO ADD SOMETHING LATER.
GOOD LUCK.
DOUG PRESTON
RV-7A WIRING
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 7
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| Subject: | RE: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
I went with the Orndorf suggestion (he said he got it from Van's engineers).
As you hold the wing rib in its direction of flight (that is, the the long
flange pointing straight ahead from you), the hole for the Van's conduit,
and you look at it from the inboard end, would be at about the 5 O'Clock
position, about an inch from the edge of the lightening hole. If you mark
that and put your bottom skins on, you'll see that that puts the conduit
just aft of the aft end of the access hole -- nicely out of way-- and does
not interfere with the bellcrank area or pitot. BTW, don't bother putting
the conduit in before the skins are on, It'll just get in the way. Thread it
through as you go inboard-to-outboard on the bottom skin riveting.
I stuck a picture here:
http://www.visi.com/~bcollins/rv/conduitlocation.jpg
So you can see.
Regards,
Bob
St. Paul
Do not archive
Subject: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit?
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Dear Sirs,
I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG for
the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do not
want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
something.
On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in the
wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
while doing this?
- Matt Johnson
http://www.rv7a.com
________________________________ Message 22
____________________________________
Time: 06:55:27 PM PST US
From: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I would say that once you got your short field landings down pat, it
would be managable. They stop fairly quickly once you get the wheels
planted. You'll find it wanst to float. Just practice a lot and I
think that 1400 feet would be fine.
tx_jayhawk@excite.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building
withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
________________________________ Message 23
____________________________________
Time: 07:00:31 PM PST US
From: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingwalk material
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I bought some medium gray anti-skid stuff at the local hardware store.
It was on a roll and they just cut a bunch off for me. It sticks REALLY
well.
Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
>Howdy folks-
>
>I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material.
>Anyone
>tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some
grey
>wingwalks out there- sources please?
>
>http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid>2565/in
>dex.html
>http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
>
>Thanks!
>Mark
>
>
>
>
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
Van Arts Consulting Services
3848 McHenry Ave
Suite #155-184
Modesto, CA 95356
209-986-4647
www.rivetbangers.com
Now with email!!
How you want it,
When you want it.
________________________________ Message 24
____________________________________
Time: 07:26:16 PM PST US
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to keep
the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches). I fly a
similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer and can always
(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going my
way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
need be.
Just my 2 cents.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
tx_jayhawk@excite.com
Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home (building
withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I would
be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like to
hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a 7A,
O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a
1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around if
things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
________________________________ Message 25
____________________________________
Time: 08:07:29 PM PST US
From: "Doug Weiler" <dcw@nomadwi.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing walk material
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Weiler" <dcw@nomadwi.com>
I previously owned an RV-4 with the clear wing walk material. It had
yellowed (even though the airplane bad been hangared) and look pretty bad
after about 5 years. I removed and installed a nice black wing walk.
Looked much better.
Doug Weiler
RV-4, N722DW
>
> Howdy folks-
>
> I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material.
> Anyone tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall
> seeing some grey wingwalks out there- sources please?
>
> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid
> =2565/
> in
> dex.html
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
________________________________ Message 26
____________________________________
Time: 08:19:39 PM PST US
From: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not
processed:
message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
Matt
I just completed this task on RV6 wings. Take a look at the "Routing of
wires and tubes in the Wing" in the Construction FAQ section at
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm
This article should pretty much answer all your questions.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
Subject: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not
processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Dear Sirs,
I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down the
wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They mention
using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that looks like it is
awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG for the wing... so
where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run one conduit down the wing? I
imaging that only one is necessary but I do not want to try to cut holes in
the ribs later if I am forgetting something.
On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in the
wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights, AOA
instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or anything
else that is ran in the wings that I should consider while doing this?
- Matt Johnson
http://www.rv7a.com
________________________________ Message 27
____________________________________
Time: 08:32:59 PM PST US
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not
processed:
message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Low and aft is my recommendation. Van's has a Construction FAQ about this:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Wiring.pdf
http://www.vansaircraft.com/public/confaq.htm
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed:
message from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> Dear Sirs,
>
> I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for
> the conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
> the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
> mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
> looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
> for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run one
> conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
> not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
> something.
>
> On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for
> in the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
> AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires
> or anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider while
> doing this?
>
> - Matt Johnson
> http://www.rv7a.com
>
>
________________________________ Message 28
____________________________________
Time: 08:45:26 PM PST US
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wing walk material
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/15/2005 7:59:59 PM Central Standard Time,
gmcnutt@shaw.ca writes:
Have you investigated anti-slip material for diving boards and motor home
steps?
>>>
Good suggestion- I'll have to dust off the West Marine catalog!
Thanks - do not archive
________________________________ Message 29
____________________________________
Time: 08:46:28 PM PST US
From: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: cutting teflon hose
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I have some stainless steel braided teflon hose that I'll be using for
oil and fuel. Is it OK to use a dremel cut-off disk to cut this type of
hose?
--
Thanks,
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
________________________________ Message 30
____________________________________
Time: 08:47:48 PM PST US
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingwalk material
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/15/2005 8:20:31 PM Central Standard Time,
Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
I've heard others complain that non-black wing-walk material shows dirt too
easily and is very hard or impossible to clean.
>>>>
Yeah, there was some stuff in the archives about that- kinda hoping some of
the newer stuff was "new & improved"....
Mark do not archive
________________________________ Message 31
____________________________________
Time: 08:56:49 PM PST US
From: MLWynn@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: HS404 Notch
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi folks,
I was on page 6-2, preparing the ribs. It says, "notch the aft end of
HS-404
ribs to fit around HS-810 & HS-814." In doing so, I cut a little too much
metal and don't have a flush fit. Is this critical (i.e., do I send to Vans
for
new HS-404's and start over)? The line that was supposed to be flush
against
810 & 814 is not particularly straight and has as much as 2mm gap. I did
this
fiasco by first drillin a small hole at what I thought would be the corner
of
the notch and then cutting with snips. Done over, I would use a much
smaller
drill bit and a band saw.
Thoughts?
Michael Wynn
RV-8, Starting the empennage
EAA 0219782
AOPA 665085
San Ramon, California
________________________________ Message 32
____________________________________
Time: 09:05:19 PM PST US
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not
processed: message ...
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 01/15/2005 8:41:41 PM Central Standard Time,
matt@n559rv.com writes:
I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG for
the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do not
want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
something.
>>>>>>
I made a simple jig that held each rib firmly in the same position- a short
piece of 2x12 with wood blocks nailed at several places around the edge of
the
rib. I clamped this to the table of my drill press and used a step drill to
make each hole in the same location, production line style. Mine are about
2"
behind the spar, about 1" below the top skin (-6A). Took about 10 minutes
to
drill all the ribs for each wing. The holes were sized for a single length
of
5/8 CPVC. Installing the CPVC took about 5 seconds (chamfer the end you
insert- slips right through) Once the wires are shoved through (another
couple of
minutes), and the tube is just where ya want it, GOOP the outer end to the
end rib and move on to other stuff...
My tips house the typical landing/taxi/postion and strobe lights (including
the power supplies), and the right wingtip also has the Navaid wing leveler
servo- still lots of room for antenna wire if desired.
Fotos if interested-
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
________________________________ Message 33
____________________________________
Time: 09:42:26 PM PST US
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Stein Bruch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
>
>Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
>carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to
>keep the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches).
>I fly a similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer
>and can always
>(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going
my
>way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
>need be.
>
>Just my 2 cents.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis
>
Worth a heck of a lot more than 2 cents!!! No face lost in a go around
..... but sometimes much face lost trying to salvage a poor approach.
Nobody seems to remember your good landings .... but they never forget
your bad ones .... and keep reminding you. Sheesh. And these are your
friends too!!! Just no respect. What's a fella to do??
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>tx_jayhawk@excite.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home
>(building withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark
>possibilities. I would be interested in hearing from others what they
>believe the minimum safe runway lenth would be. I know it is highly
>subjective, but I would like to hear from others with experience. For
>reference...the plane with be a 7A, O360, with FP prop. Also, there is
>no real obstacles to think of (never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and
>field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a 1400' runway be doable? I know it
would be on the short side (go-around if
>things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
>Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
________________________________ Message 34
____________________________________
Time: 09:43:22 PM PST US
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
Plan on doing your initial flight testing off a longer strip, and
don't land at your strip until you have mastered the aircraft.
Kevin Horton
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
>Without Obstacles I'd say "EASY PEASY"!!
>
>Even with obstacles, it's still doable, but you have to be much more
>carefull. Takeoffs will be easy, but with the FP prop, you'll need to
>keep the approach close to nuts on (No sloppy, extra fast approaches).
>I fly a similar setup off a grass strip that isn't a whole lot longer
>and can always
>(almost) land with a decent amount of runway to spare. If it's not going
my
>way during the approach, I simply go around and try it again, and again if
>need be.
>
>Just my 2 cents.
>
>Cheers,
>Stein Bruch
>RV6's, Minneapolis
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
>tx_jayhawk@excite.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Minimum Realistic Field Length
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "" <tx_jayhawk@excite.com>
>
> All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home
>(building withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark
>possibilities. I would be interested in hearing from others what they
>believe the minimum safe runway lenth would be. I know it is highly
>subjective, but I would like to hear from others with experience. For
>reference...the plane with be a 7A, O360, with FP prop. Also, there is
>no real obstacles to think of (never heard of the Kansas Rockies), and
>field elevation is approx 1000'. Would a 1400' runway be doable? I know it
would be on the short side (go-around if
>things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the help,
>Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
________________________________ Message 35
____________________________________
Time: 10:56:42 PM PST US
From: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
Subject: RV-List: BlueSky Aviation
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Comeaux" <mcomeaux@bendnet.com>
I would like to share my story regarding Bluesky Aviation Aka Noel Simmons
to any and all interested parties. I have pictures during final construction
to back up my claims & repairs that had to be done to correct what he had
done to my airplane and charged me for. I was hoping to reach the 10 & 9
list can anyone confirm off list if I reached you as well.
Regards
Mike Comeaux
mcomeaux@bendnet.com
________________________________ Message 36
____________________________________
Time: 11:04:46 PM PST US
From: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: cutting teflon hose
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
Yes. Wrap the ends you plan to cut with electrical tape and cut em
off. We used to make lots of brake lines and used a similar tool to do
the job. I don't recommend a hacksaw, makes a mess of the ends.
--
Mike Nellis
Austin, TX
CMRA #32 Honda RC51
'97 YZF1000
'47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage)
http://bmnellis.com
sarg314 wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I have some stainless steel braided teflon hose that I'll be using for
>oil and fuel. Is it OK to use a dremel cut-off disk to cut this type of
>hose?
>--
>Thanks,
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, firewall
>
>
>
>
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
So there is no problem running the wing leveler, AOA tube or antenna wires in the
same conduit as the power wires?
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? (not processed: message
...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 01/15/2005 8:41:41 PM Central Standard Time,
> matt@n559rv.com writes:
> I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
> conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
> the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
> mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
> looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
> for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
> one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I
> do
> not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
> something.
> >>>>>>
>
> I made a simple jig that held each rib firmly in the same position- a
> short
> piece of 2x12 with wood blocks nailed at several places around the edge
> of the
> rib. I clamped this to the table of my drill press and used a step
> drill to
> make each hole in the same location, production line style. Mine are
> about 2"
> behind the spar, about 1" below the top skin (-6A). Took about 10
> minutes to
> drill all the ribs for each wing. The holes were sized for a single
> length of
> 5/8 CPVC. Installing the CPVC took about 5 seconds (chamfer the end
> you
> insert- slips right through) Once the wires are shoved through
> (another couple of
> minutes), and the tube is just where ya want it, GOOP the outer end to
> the
> end rib and move on to other stuff...
>
> My tips house the typical landing/taxi/postion and strobe lights
> (including
> the power supplies), and the right wingtip also has the Navaid wing
> leveler
> servo- still lots of room for antenna wire if desired.
>
> Fotos if interested-
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian company. I know there
are some good ones but some things to be aware of, 1) Customs fees and, 2)
potential state sales taxes.
I am in a nightmare ordeal with a Canadian engine company. I am currently out $25K,
plus $1300 in Customs fees and another $1500 in State sales taxes. The Customs
and State sales taxes were not disclosed by the company for obvious reasons.
Additionally, we are now forced to take legal action. Although the "borders" do
present some obstacles they are not insurmountable. They were for a few others
screwed by the company. These folks did not get an engine or their money back
but did not go after them.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Owner of nearly completed RV that may never fly thanks to a Canadian company.
Message 10
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|
| Subject: | Final Inspection? |
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I am ready for the final Inspection. I understand I have to have
the Alt.and Transponder certified before, the Inspection.
What is the bet way to do this, and least expensive? they want
$300 for this hour job?
HOw about the Static system, can I do that...
After this is completed, what is the fastest way to get an Inpector
to certify the aircraft..it seems is very difficult here in FL. to get
some one. Must one have to pay an DAR, $300 ?
Any suggestions on this, is appreciated it...
Bert
rv6a
Do Not archive
Message 11
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wing walk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
You can make your own custom wing walk anti-slip surface that matches the paint
perfectly. It is better than clear plastic if you want something to blend in.
I had my plane professionally painted and wanted to use the clear plastic, but
the painter talked me out of it. He painted on the wind walk areas that matched
the color of the plane exactly. I watched him and don't recall the exact details
but this is the general idea:
First he did NOT use the commercial walk paint that leaves a rough surface because
it will not match your paint exactly. He made is own anti-skid-walk paint:
Tape the area off, any pattern your heart desires; Protect the adjacent areas;
Prep the surface and lay down wet paint; Apply anti-skid "sand"; Re-spray paint
over the top with the finish coat.
It matches the plane perfectly, is even and thin.
I believe the "sand" is made for this purpose, and it is fine sand that comes in
different colors. I think he got it at the hardware store. Using a shaker or
screen he evenly spread the sand out on the wet paint. You blow the excess off,
let it tack and paint. Straight forward.
It makes a perfect rough surface (not too rough) that is color matched, and in
600 hours never wore thru or off. Even if it did start to wear-off, it would be
the same color as the plane. The jet glow paint never wore. It has a nice look,
subtle and discreet but still gives a safe walk area.
Good Luck. G
---------------------------------
Message 12
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|
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
After a pause, Van told me a few hears ago a SNF that his favorite 2 seater RV
series at that moment was a 180hp RV8. I got the 200hp because it was a pretty
good deal and I want climb performance and plane project #2 might be a pure
acro plane and I'll put the engine in that if I don't like the 8 with the 200hp
angle valve version.
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 1/15/05 11:56:29 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
> dan@rvproject.com writes:
>
> > If I had it to do over again, I would not use the angle valve engine --
> its
> > too heavy.
>
> Dan, I would love to hear your expanded thoughts on this. I come from the
> other side of the fence (200+hp or bust!), and I'm curious what your
> experience has been. Not trying to argue in any way, just rare that you
> hear what you just said, and it's got my attention!
>
> do not archive
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> _http://www.rvproject.com_ (http://www.rvproject.com)
>
>
> Dan C,
>
> The airplane flies fine. I am told by some at Van's that it would fly
> better if it were lighter and not so nose heavy. Although that may have some
> advantage in that I can haul more baggage before it gets tail heavy. Also, the
> cowling didn't fit very well. I had to raise it up to clear the front
> cylinder heads, and that caused a step behind the spinner on top. Could have
> done a
> bunch of fiberglass work to correct that. I just feel like the parallel
> valves would be a better approach. I usually cruise at 23/23 to conserve fuel
> and avoid the vibration. BTW, I have had it dynamically balanced. I like the
> power too, but I could live with less. Well, maybe not! It certainly is
> impressive to leave the ground and point the nose up at about a 30 degree angle
> and just keep climbing!
>
> Regards,
>
> Dan H.
>
>
>
>
>
>
After a pause, Van told mea few hears ago a SNF that his favorite 2 seater RV series
at that moment was a 180hp RV8. Igot the 200hp because it was a pretty gooddeal
andI want climb performance andplane project #2 might be a pure acro plane
and I'llput the engine in that if I don't like the 8 with the 200hp angle
valve version.
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/15/05 11:56:29 AM US Eastern Standard Time,
dan@rvproject.com writes:
If I had it to do over again, I would not use the angle valve engine --
its
too heavy.
Dan, I would love to hear your expanded thoughts on this. I come from the
other side of the fence (200+hp or bust!), and I'm curious what your
experience has been. Not trying to argue in any way, just rare that you
hear what you just said, and it's got my attention!
do not archive
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
_http://www.rvproject.com_ (http://www.rvproject.com)
Dan C,
The airplane flies fine. I am tol
d by some at Van's that it would fly
better if it were lighter and not so nose heavy. Although that may have some
advantage in that I can haul more baggage before it gets tail heavy. Also, the
cowling didn't fit very well. I had to raise it up to clear the front
cylinder heads, and that caused a step behind the spinner on top. Could have
done a
bunch of fiberglass work to correct that. I just feel like the parallel
valves would be a better approach. I usually cruise at 23/23 to conserve fuel
and avoid the vibration. BTW, I have had it dynamically balanced. I like the
power too, but I could live with less. Well, maybe not! It certainly is
impressive to leave the ground and point the nose up at about a 30 degree angle
and just keep climbing!
Regards,
Dan H.
==========
st
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Hooker harness |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Olson <lolson@doitnow.com>
Keep in mind that Hooker will correct any problem.
Too long, straps pulling down instead of up to tighten, need loosening straps?
Just call them. Mine work great. They even shortened and re-sewed all the
extra
on the shoulder straps. Looks a lot better. No charge.
To the original thread - I think you have them switched right and left
Larry Olson
RV6 DVT
Flying
><< I just replaced my old belts with Hookers and found the shoulder harness
>attach points into the lap belt are opposite what I think they should
>be. They
>have a 90 degree bend in them and look like they should fit together flush.
>They way they go together now they seem to interfere. Has anyone else found
>this?
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>
>Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian company. I know
there are some good ones but some things to be aware of, 1) Customs fees and,
2) potential state sales taxes.
>
>I am in a nightmare ordeal with a Canadian engine company. I am currently out
$25K, plus $1300 in Customs fees and another $1500 in State sales taxes. The Customs
and State sales taxes were not disclosed by the company for obvious reasons.
>
>Additionally, we are now forced to take legal action. Although the "borders" do
present some obstacles they are not insurmountable. They were for a few others
screwed by the company. These folks did not get an engine or their money back
but did not go after them.
>
>Darwin N. Barrie
>Chandler AZ
>Owner of nearly completed RV that may never fly thanks to a Canadian company.
>
>
>
>
Why not name the company?
do not archive
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Wingwalk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Mark,
Worst mistake I ever made. Put it on and thought cool! I can still see the
color
of my wings through it. Then it gets dirty, then you try to clean it and
you
can't, then you try to take it off. What a mess.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Wingwalk material
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy folks-
I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing some
grey
wingwalks out there- sources please?
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2565/
in
dex.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
Thanks!
Mark
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
If you're putting a VOR in your bird, I recommend running coax to one or
your wingtips for your antenna. You can use that black corrugated plastic
tubing as a good, light conduit. Any auto store will have this.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Where to Cut holes in ribs for conduit?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Here is how I did it:
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041026231058140
>
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041214233000234
>
> Stuff that I've run through there are:
>
> 1) position lights
> 2) strobe wires (rather fat bundle)
> 3) landing/taxi lights
> 4) 2 x 1/8" AOA plastic tubing
>
> Still to come may be the EFIS magnometer wires, unless
> I put them in the fuselage.
>
> Mickey
>
>
> Matt Johnson wrote:
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>>
>> Dear Sirs,
>>
>> I am at the point where it is time to cut the holes in the ribs for the
>> conduit (that I got through vans) that contains the wires ran down
>> the wings... can you tell me where the best place to do this is? They
>> mention using the tooling holes at the rear of the spar, but that
>> looks like it is awfully close to the pushrods when looking at the DWG
>> for the wing... so where do you guys put it? Also, do you only run
>> one conduit down the wing? I imaging that only one is necessary but I do
>> not want to try to cut holes in the ribs later if I am forgetting
>> something.
>>
>> On another related issue, what items are you needing to run wires for in
>> the wings? I can think of landing lights, positioning tip lights,
>> AOA instrument... anything else? is there any radio, GPS, EFIS wires or
>> anything else that is ran in the wings that I should consider
>> while doing this?
>>
>> - Matt Johnson
>> http://www.rv7a.com
>>
>
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Final Inspection? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I called the local fsdo and they sent an inspector out. Very knowledgeable
& professional. Paid for by our tax dollars. Apparently not all fsdo's do
this, but it's worth a try.
He said I could to the xpdr/alt/pitot/static cert later. It cost $75 and
took a couple hours. You can do a leak test ahead of time, but unless you
have all the test equipment, I don't think you can do the certification.
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bertrv6@highstream.net [mailto:bertrv6@highstream.net]
> Sent: Sunday, January 16, 2005 11:15 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Final Inspection?
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
>
>
> Hi:
>
> I am ready for the final Inspection. I understand I have
> to have the Alt.and Transponder certified before, the Inspection.
>
> What is the bet way to do this, and least expensive? they
> want $300 for this hour job?
>
> HOw about the Static system, can I do that...
>
> After this is completed, what is the fastest way to get an
> Inpector to certify the aircraft..it seems is very
> difficult here in FL. to get
> some one. Must one have to pay an DAR, $300 ?
>
>
> Any suggestions on this, is appreciated it...
>
> Bert
>
> rv6a
>
>
> Do Not archive
>
>
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wingwalk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
I used Van's black wing walk with the model logo on it. It has always
drawn compliments. Very easy to clean, looks great. Still on there
after 7.5 years and many stompings, approx 3000 sorties. Still a good
anti skid surface. It appears to be a modern 3M product, not the old
ugly black things found on older airplanes.
Am I the only one who likes the "stock" wing walk??
Denis
On Jan 15, 2005, at 7:01 PM, Scott VanArtsdalen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> I bought some medium gray anti-skid stuff at the local hardware store.
> It was on a roll and they just cut a bunch off for me. It sticks
> REALLY
> well.
>
> Fiveonepw@aol.com wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>>
>> Howdy folks-
>>
>> I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material.
>> Anyone
>> tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing
>> some grey
>> wingwalks out there- sources please?
>>
>> http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/
>> pid=9691~subid=2565/in
>> dex.html
>> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
>>
>> Thanks!
>> Mark
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> Van Arts Consulting Services
> 3848 McHenry Ave
> Suite #155-184
> Modesto, CA 95356
> 209-986-4647
> www.rivetbangers.com
> Now with email!!
> How you want it,
> When you want it.
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Minimum Realistic Field Length |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Denk" <akroguy@hotmail.com>
> >
> > All, Since the plane is still in storage while I look for a home
>(building
> >withdrawl), I have been evaluating several airpark possibilities. I
>would
> >be interested in hearing from others what they believe the minimum safe
> >runway lenth would be. I know it is highly subjective, but I would like
>to
> >hear from others with experience. For reference...the plane with be a
>7A,
> >O360, with FP prop. Also, there is no real obstacles to think of (never
> >heard of the Kansas Rockies), and field elevation is approx 1000'. Would
>a
> >1400' runway be doable? I know it would be on the short side (go-around
>if
> >things don't look just right), but would it be safe? Thanks for the
>help,
> >Scottwww.scottsrv7a.com
1000' field elevation? Must be nice! Density altitude here in Albuquerque
can often get to 8500' on hot summer days. Takes 1000' just to get the tail
up!
I'd also dearly love an airpark situation. Just lost two real estate deals
at one locally due to piss poor timing. But, I digress.
If it wasn't for the runway requirements here, I'd just buy some land out in
the middle of nowhere and make my own strip. Would need a couple hundred
acres though! Could rent it out to NASA as another backup Space Shuttle
landing site.
Best of luck to you and yes, practice until you can plant that airplane
exactly where you want it every time. Need to have a built-in training
factor for muscle memory when you're returning from a long trip with fuel
AND mental bandwidth levels running low.
Brian Denk
RV8 N94BD
RV10 '51
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: battery charging |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Regardless of the debate about trickle charges and charging, one thing that comes
to mind talking about any charger left hooked to your Plane. In a hanger this
is a FIRE DANGER. As a few mentioned a case where a battery just blew up
("Blew up real good it did"). It apparently can happen, and charging can set this
off, even if the battery was working normally up to that point. I don't know
the history of the AGM (absorbed glass mat) or SLA batteries.
The "FIRE CODE" for most structures, including commercial buildings like hangers
have rules regarding extension cords plugged into chargers or anything for that
matter. I am pretty sure it is against "code" to have extension cords plugged
in and un-attended. We had fire dept inspections. The Chief would leave warning
to occupants (subject to fine) if they found extension cords plugged in.
Apparently extension cords are a common cause of fires. Add the danger of that
rare but possible case where a battery has an internally short, overheating itself
or the charger or both. I just am not comfortable leaving a charger hooked-up
and un-attended. In my opinion there is some fire risk. Do it at your own
risk, but what about the adjacent hangers.
I wounder if insurance would pay off if a battery charger or it's extension chord
were the cause of a fire. I know some of the modern chargers have internal
short sensing and protection. I also can't believe it but apparently some chargers
do not have short or fuse protection. Be careful.
G (RV-4, RV-7)
---------------------------------
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Wingwalk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
I used some white "traction tape" from a local builders supply place
(similar to but not Home Depot). It was a sandpaper-like no slip surface. I
chose white vice black to look a little different and not be a large effect
on my overall yellow paint scheme. I think this stuff is intended for bath
tubs and similar applications and it has stuck ferociously to my wing.
Yes, it gets dirty easily but so far stuff like mud has scrubbed off in a
few seconds with a brush and some water/detergent. Black tar from an asphalt
ramp with oil spilled on it would, I am sure, be a different matter but
where I fly the problem is your plain, old, basic mud!
You pay your money and take your chances with this stuff ....
Jim Oke
RV-6A, C-GKGZ
Winnipeg, MB
(No mud at the field today, its -20 F and 2 feet of snow...)
METAR CYWG 161800Z 29003KT 15SM SKC M32/M35 A3072 RMK SLP442
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wingwalk material
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 01/15/2005 8:20:31 PM Central Standard Time,
> Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
> I've heard others complain that non-black wing-walk material shows dirt
> too
> easily and is very hard or impossible to clean.
>>>>>
> Yeah, there was some stuff in the archives about that- kinda hoping some
> of
> the newer stuff was "new & improved"....
>
> Mark do not archive
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian
> company. I know there are some good ones but some things to
> be aware of, 1) Customs fees and, 2) potential state sales taxes.
Those of us building outside the USA are well aware of these
customs and tax issues - we get hit with them for every purchase,
not to mention big fat shipping charges. Depending on where you
live, it can add 30-50% to the price of the kit and all the junk
you gotta buy.
Perhaps I'm kinda stupid, but I thought that NAFTA meant that
there was a "free trade" agreement between the US and Canada,
and that shipping something from Canada to Arizona would be
like shipping it from Oregon to Arizona. Guess not. I started
to read the agreement a long time ago, but 900 pages of lawyer
talk stopped me cold.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
do not archive
Message 23
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| Subject: | Final Inspection? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Bert:
EAA members have a lot of this info at their fingertips.
Here is what the EAA says you need.
http://members.eaa.org/home/govt/issues/inspection_guide_airplane.asp
Info on registering and licensing.
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/registering/register.html
EAA List of AB DARs.
http://members.eaa.org/home/govt/help/ab_dar.asp
In the EAA DAR Directory, look for EAA Volunteer DAR. They only charge
expenses. There are 2 in Flordia. Looks like many states have at least one
except for Texas and California where there are 4 in each state.
All the links require EAA membership.
Give one of the AB DARs a call and see what they can do for you. If you
have a friendly FSDO / MIDO, they also can help. The problem in California
is that they have been known to come out but it sometimes takes weeks.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,621 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
From: bertrv6@highstream.net
Subject: RV-List: Final Inspection?
--> RV-List message posted by: bertrv6@highstream.net
Hi:
I am ready for the final Inspection. I understand I have to have
the Alt.and Transponder certified before, the Inspection.
What is the bet way to do this, and least expensive? they want
$300 for this hour job?
HOw about the Static system, can I do that...
After this is completed, what is the fastest way to get an Inpector
to certify the aircraft..it seems is very difficult here in FL. to get
some one. Must one have to pay an DAR, $300 ?
Any suggestions on this, is appreciated it...
Bert
rv6a
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: . Re: Cutting teflon Hose |
--> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com
I use a 4" disc grinder to cut the hose with steel braid. I also got
fibreglas discs for the dremel at Wal-Mart ,which last a lot longer than the thin
Dremel discs.
After I cut them I bevel the ends to smooth down the wire braid before I
clean and install the hose ends.
Start on one end of a long hose , then if you mess it up and have to cut it
off , the hose won'y be too short.
My opinion:
do not archive
Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X
A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor
Charleston,Arkansas
Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
Greetings,
I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
Thanks...
Joe Connell, RV-9A, N95JJ, finishing
Stewartville, MN
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
There must be more to the story. I bought my Superior XP-IO-360-B1B from
Aero Sport Power in British Columbia. It couldn't have been easier. I
think I recall a $35 or $50 customs fee, arranged by Aero Sport Power, and I
also think I paid $150 for crating and shipping. I am very pleased with the
engine and the entire transaction. The state sales tax will be just like
everything else on the airplane - due when I register it.
I'm also a little concerned about your characterization of the company only
as a Canadian company. Obviously, something went very wrong on your engine
purchase, but I'm willing to bet that it had very little to do with the fact
that it was located in Canada. As for the state sales tax, that has to be
Arizona's rules. What ever happened, it has to be a real bummer. We count
on the people we deal with to make their agreements in good faith.
I hope you get your money back, but when you do, I would recommend Aero
Sport Power as a source for your engine. And they are in Canada.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Installing oil cooler
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Darwin N. Barrie
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian company. I
know there are some good ones but some things to be aware of, 1) Customs
fees and, 2) potential state sales taxes.
I am in a nightmare ordeal with a Canadian engine company. I am currently
out $25K, plus $1300 in Customs fees and another $1500 in State sales taxes.
The Customs and State sales taxes were not disclosed by the company for
obvious reasons.
Additionally, we are now forced to take legal action. Although the "borders"
do present some obstacles they are not insurmountable. They were for a few
others screwed by the company. These folks did not get an engine or their
money back but did not go after them.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Owner of nearly completed RV that may never fly thanks to a Canadian
company.
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
I have been having trouble shutting down my engine, the first case I
had was a slipping mixture cable but now the engine does not stop at
idle cut off and when the prop does stop it just starts turning the
opposite direction. so I finally removed the fuel control servo and I
am shipping it back to airflow performance. I spoke with the builder of
my airplane and he mentioned he had the same problem shutting down at
one point and he just would turn the fuel selector to off and when the
engine began to starve he would shutdown and the engine would quit.
so, I tried this approach before I removed the servo and no joy, the
engine would stumble but not quit. I pushed the plane in the hangar and
the fuel inlet hose and the outlet hose were both hanging from the
engine.... Hummmm, I turned the fuel selector to off and hit the boost
pump. Sure enough fuel was pouring out of the hose I let about a 1/2
gallon run out to make sure it was really pumping fuel from the
tanks...
My question is.... Is this normal? I would think that if you turn the
fuel selector to off then no fuel would go past the firewall.
Don at airflow wants to sell me a purge valve but I really do not want
to go that route because most people say it is really for hot starts
not shutting down. Plus, I like to find the root of a problem not just
spending more money to take care of a problem by added heavy expensive
stuff.
Any and all comment welcome!
Jason
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Darwin,
I to would like to have more details regarding the company or companies that
caused you to send the post below.
Also, here in Canada getting anything across the line adds serious cost,
lots of frustration and time delays. I have waited well over six weeks and
paid shipping fees, currency exchange, taxes and duties that added over
seventy five dollars to an item that originally priced out at less that
forty. I am sure I am not alone in this regard. Needles to say I am now very
cautious about what I buy and how it is shipped.
Is the above description of circumstances similar with buyers on the south
side when they shop here?
I can hardly wait for the day that the USA throws in the towel and joins up
with us. Hmmm, Canada with so many different provinces, What an idea!? {[;-)
(Hi there Gary and Carolyn ;)
Hoping you get things worked out ok,
Jim in Kelowna
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
>
> Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>>
>>Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian company. I
>>know there are some good ones but some things to be aware of, 1) Customs
>>fees and, 2) potential state sales taxes.
>>
>>I am in a nightmare ordeal with a Canadian engine company. I am currently
>>out $25K, plus $1300 in Customs fees and another $1500 in State sales
>>taxes. The Customs and State sales taxes were not disclosed by the company
>>for obvious reasons.
>>
>>Additionally, we are now forced to take legal action. Although the
>>"borders" do present some obstacles they are not insurmountable. They were
>>for a few others screwed by the company. These folks did not get an
>>engine or their money back but did not go after them.
>>
>>Darwin N. Barrie
>>Chandler AZ
>>Owner of nearly completed RV that may never fly thanks to a Canadian
>>company.
>>
>>
>>
>>
> Why not name the company?
>
> do not archive
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I have delt with both companies and own products from both. I have found
each to offer a great product and fantastic service. I don't think you can
make a mistake either way.(i currently have a JPI 700)
John Furey
RV6A O-320 CS
Message 30
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gar Pessel" <pessel@ptialaska.net>
I had wanted to put a heated pitot in the 9A I am building. I saw the letter from
Gretz Aero in the archives, and was thinking of getting the Gretz mounting
kit and the GA1000 probe if it becomes available. I have been unable to contact
Gretz, either by phone or email. I do not want to buy the $900 plus probe
from Aircraft Spruce. Does anyone know of other options, mounting kits, etc.
Gar Pessel Fairbanks, AK building on and happily flying a 6, once it warms up
again.
Message 31
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| Subject: | Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Are you stuck on using either of those?? There are a couple other solutions
which are cheaper and offer more functionality such as the EIS from GRT of
the Rocky Mountain Engine monitor.
If you add up the high price ($1200+) and the relatively small amount of
functionality (both are basically a CHT and/or EGT instrument) coupled to
the fact that you still have to buy a bunch of other engine instruments
anyway, why not spend less and get more functionality anyway.
You don't see many of these in "new" experimentals for the above reasons.
The complete graphical engine monitor solutions available to the
experimental market are so for advanced and beyond what those two
instruments are for the price.
Just my 2 cents as usual, I'm not much help to your original question and I
apologize for that. Personally, I wouldn't use either one. If I had to,
I'd avoid JPI for personal reasons (well documented past company policies
towards certain individuals) at all cost. If I were forced to choose, I'd
choose the EI solutions just based on principle alone.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
Do Not Archive (not much worth archiving in my response)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe & Jan
Connell
Subject: RV-List: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
Greetings,
I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
Thanks...
Joe Connell, RV-9A, N95JJ, finishing
Stewartville, MN
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
Darwin:
I, as well as many others, have had very good dealing with Canadians. I
have had more bad dealings with people here in the US than I have had in
Canada. (Greater % of dealing have been negative with companies in the US
where I live and am a resident.)
Would it be better to say that "...YOU DO NOT FOR ANY REASON ON GODS GREEN
EARTH WANT TO DEAL WITH CROSSFLOW!!!! I AM CURRENTLY OUT $26,0000 AND MY
NEIGHBOR IS OUT $15,000. Contact me off line for details." From: AZ_RVList
Arizona-RV List at yahoogroups.com Fri Jan 14, 2005 5:55 pm
The name of the company is now out for all to see and you did not have to
post it to this forum to have it out here. I hope that this does not make
it difficult for any litigation that is taking place.
I just want to set the record straight that all my fellow Canadian aviators
are great people. Too bad that they have been keeping secret from the rest
of North America how great a vacation value British Columbia is.
If I were going to buy an Experimental engine for my amateur built RV
aircraft, Canadian company PowerSport would be one of the top 3 picks for a
Lycoming (or Lycoming clone) engine.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,621 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
------Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Darwin N. Barrie
Subject: Re: RV-List: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian company. I
know there are some good ones but some things to be aware of, 1) Customs
fees and, 2) potential state sales taxes.
I am in a nightmare ordeal with a Canadian engine company. I am currently
out $25K, plus $1300 in Customs fees and another $1500 in State sales taxes.
The Customs and State sales taxes were not disclosed by the company for
obvious reasons.
Additionally, we are now forced to take legal action. Although the "borders"
do present some obstacles they are not insurmountable. They were for a few
others screwed by the company. These folks did not get an engine or their
money back but did not go after them.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Owner of nearly completed RV that may never fly thanks to a Canadian
company.
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
I think he's probably referring to Crossflow engines which is a Subaru
motor.
Jim Jewell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>Hi Darwin,
>
>I to would like to have more details regarding the company or companies that
>caused you to send the post below.
>
>Also, here in Canada getting anything across the line adds serious cost,
>lots of frustration and time delays. I have waited well over six weeks and
>paid shipping fees, currency exchange, taxes and duties that added over
>seventy five dollars to an item that originally priced out at less that
>forty. I am sure I am not alone in this regard. Needles to say I am now very
>cautious about what I buy and how it is shipped.
>Is the above description of circumstances similar with buyers on the south
>side when they shop here?
>
>I can hardly wait for the day that the USA throws in the towel and joins up
>with us. Hmmm, Canada with so many different provinces, What an idea!? {[;-)
>(Hi there Gary and Carolyn ;)
>
>Hoping you get things worked out ok,
>
>Jim in Kelowna
>
>Do not archive
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Jerry Springer" <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: How to Rebuild an 200hp IO 360 A1A
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
>>
>>Darwin N. Barrie wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
>>>
>>>Personally, I would be cautious about dealing with a Canadian company. I
>>>know there are some good ones but some things to be aware of, 1) Customs
>>>fees and, 2) potential state sales taxes.
>>>
>>>I am in a nightmare ordeal with a Canadian engine company. I am currently
>>>out $25K, plus $1300 in Customs fees and another $1500 in State sales
>>>taxes. The Customs and State sales taxes were not disclosed by the company
>>>for obvious reasons.
>>>
>>>Additionally, we are now forced to take legal action. Although the
>>>"borders" do present some obstacles they are not insurmountable. They were
>>>for a few others screwed by the company. These folks did not get an
>>>engine or their money back but did not go after them.
>>>
>>>Darwin N. Barrie
>>>Chandler AZ
>>>Owner of nearly completed RV that may never fly thanks to a Canadian
>>>company.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Why not name the company?
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
--
Mike Nellis
Austin, TX
CMRA #32 Honda RC51
'97 YZF1000
'47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage)
http://bmnellis.com
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
> and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
> vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
> through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
> aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
> no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
> be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
You might want to consider one of the more comprehensive engine monitor
systems. The Advanced Flight Systems ACS2002 (soon to be AF-2500) is the
pick of the litter imho. Here's a comparison...
http://www.advanced-control-systems.com/MonitorComparisons/monitorscomparison.htm
You may find that it ends up cheaper given the other instruments you don't
have to buy.
Randy Lervold
RV-3, fuselage
RV-8, sold
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | Interior paint recommendation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
Hi builders,
Just want to post my thoughts on painting my interior this weekend.
First off - use an HVLP gravity feed (pot on top) gun. It uses about 1/3 to
1/4 of the paint a suction feed uses. Almost no overspray. No kidding. I
went with a Sharppe Cobalt series gun with 1.6 mm tip at 30 PSI. Best $130
I spent so far.
Second - I really like the Jet-Flex water reducible interior polyurethane.
Water cleanup. Only rates a 2 on health hazard (about the same as cake).
Zero on flammability & other stuff. Fast cure, and very tough. Not as
tough as the 2 part brain killer, but at 90% who cares. This is a Sherwin
Williams product and I used a quart to paint the whole interior, under the
panel, and inside the ski tunnel. About $38 FWIW. I wish they had this for
exterior paint! DIY no problemo!
Now to glue the canopy on.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A tipper
PHX, AZ
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
Kevin Horton wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>>
>>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about airspeed indicator error
>>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets. Searched archives,
>>didn't find
>>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is reading low and wondering if
>>the Cleveland static ports may have something to do with it.
>>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
>>Dale Ensing
>>RV6A N118DE
>>
>>
>
>I'm on the road this week, working very long days, so I wasn't keeping up
>to date on the RV-List.
>
>The ideal static port would be at a location where the pressure was equal
>to the free stream pressure at every flight condition. Unfortunately, the
>air flow has to accelerate and decelerate as it goes around the aircraft,
>and Bernoulli's Law tells us that this will cause the pressure to
>change. At any given flight condition there are a number of locations on
>the aircraft where the pressure is equal to the free stream static
>pressure. But, if you change flight conditions, these locations end up
>somewhere else. It is very, very difficult to find a good location for
>static ports.
>
>Van's static port is a domed head pop rivet. Some people are offended by
>the protruding head, and replace it with something that is flatter, like
>the Cleaveland or ACS static ports. But you need to realize that Van isn't
>stupid, and there is a reason why he used a protruding static port - it
>works. The airflow will have to accelerate a bit as it goes over that
>domed head, and this will cause the pressure to fall. In other words, if
>you have a more flush static port, at the same location, this port will
>sense a higher pressure. ASI readings are a function of the difference
>between pitot and static pressures, so the flatter static port will lead to
>lower ASI readings.
>
>I've seem info from several builders who have modified the flush static
>ports to make them more like Van's design, and they reported that the
>accuracy of their ASI and altimeter improved. I have also seen messages
>from two builders who are sure that their ASI is accurate with the flatter
>static ports. And I bet most RVers have no idea how accurate their ASI and
>altimeter are at all. Every RV is a bit different, due to small changes in
>skin contour ahead of the static port, so every one will have a slightly
>different static system error. And every ASI has a different instrument
>error. If you are lucky, the error in your ASI will cancel out the error
>in your static system.
>
>If your ASI reads a bit low, that is no big deal, except you should lower
>your max flap speed and VNE a bit to compensate. But, if you fly IFR you
>need to understand that static system errors also affect the altimeter. I
>wouldn't want to be shooting instrument approaches without knowing what
>errors my altimeter had, and compensating for them.
>
>You also have to understand that ASIs have instrument error too, so at
>first glance there is no way of knowing whether your problem is ASI
>instrument error, pitot-static leaks, static system error or a problem with
>the way you determined the ASI accuracy.
>
>I've got a bunch of info on my web site on how to check the ASI accuracy
>using a homemade water manometer. Then, I've got info on how to do static
>system accuracy flight testing, including a spreadsheet to crunch the
>data. See:
>
>http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
>
>The whole list of links on pitot-static systems is at:
>
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?PID=47
>
>Kevin Horton
>RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
>Ottawa, Canada
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
>
I'm one of the guys Kevin helped (over 5 years ago). I've never been too
interested in indicated airspeed except knowing what it reads when I'm
about to stall. I had noticed that my cruise ASI indication (RV-4) in
still air was about 10 kts below what the LORAN was telling me & just
wrote it off as normal aircraft quality stuff. The only reason I got
concerned about this issue was that after an altimeter I failure &
replacement I happened to glance at the new altimeter while doing a
200+mph pass down the runway at my home strip. I discovered that I was
flying about 75' below field elevation & surviving the experience.
Kevin asked if I had flush static ports; I did. He advised adding
'bumps' over the ports; I did (heads from 3/16" pop rivets, RTV'd over
the ports). Not only did it remove the plane's ability to fly 75' below
field elevation at 200mph, but it improved my cruise speed by 10 kts :-)
(ASI now agreed with LORAN in still air).
<joke about functioning a/c parts & airshow judging deleted from this
space>
Charlie
(Thanks again, Kevin.)
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Schrimmer <mschrimmer@pacbell.net>
Kevin's explanation for putting the T midpoint between
the two ports makes sense, yet the plans for the 7 and
9 have the T on one side. Since I'm just about to
install my pop rivet static system, does anyone have
any comments about which location is better?
Thanks,
Mark
Irvine, CA
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: battery charging - better charger? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
All the discussion about "trickle chargers", "float chargers", "cooking the
battery", "boiling or otherwise losing electrolyte" - the charger I bought
from Wal-mart, Schumacher, for about $25 (1998), has a selectable 2 or 10
amp charge rate.
I have monitored it (by hooking up my multimeter to its leads on the battery
terminals) on several batteries over the past 7 years and here's how it
operates, which seems ideal to me:
It slowly increases voltage until it reaches about 14.2v (If I remember
correctly, or slightly higher) (on my multimeter I have clipped onto the
charger's clips), then SHUTS OFF (green light comes on. Now the battery is
self-discharging and slowly goes down to 13.0 V (12.99) at which time the
charging current is turned back on, starts at 13.5 or so and slowly builds
up again to 14.2v and shuts off again.
A battery that was badly discharged, would take a long time to reach 14.2
and shutdown for freefall, but would freefall rather rapidly (maybe a minute
to reach 13.0). A fully charged battery would discharge very slowly (15' or
more) and when it came on at 12.99v, it would reach 14.2 in about the blink
of an eye - 1 second or so and do another very slow freefall. So, the fully
charged battery was only being "momentarily pulsed" with current, not
continuously - no boiling or losing electrolyte.
Isn't this about as good as one could want?
David
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Shutdown problems and fuel selector valve |
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on zoot.lafn.org
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Jason,
Sounds like you have a plumbing problem - the valve should shut the fuel
off completely. My guess is that either the valve is bad (unlikely) or
it's installed incorrectly. However your problem with the engine not
shutting down with the mixture control is NORMAL in most airplanes with
AFP fuel injection. Mine did the same thing after about 50 hours and
Don at AFP told me the same thing - install the purge valve. I did so
reluctantly, but it's one of the best mods I've done on the airplane! It
not only shuts down cleanly, but it starts reliably every time no mater
how hot it is. I'd do it again in a minute!
I recommend that anyone with AFP seriously consider installing the purge
valve.
Dave RV6, So Cal
EAA Technical Counselor and Flight Advisor
Jason Sneed wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jason Sneed <n242ds@cox.net>
>
>I have been having trouble shutting down my engine, the first case I
>had was a slipping mixture cable but now the engine does not stop at
>idle cut off and when the prop does stop it just starts turning the
>opposite direction. so I finally removed the fuel control servo and I
>am shipping it back to airflow performance. I spoke with the builder of
>my airplane and he mentioned he had the same problem shutting down at
>one point and he just would turn the fuel selector to off and when the
>engine began to starve he would shutdown and the engine would quit.
>
>so, I tried this approach before I removed the servo and no joy, the
>engine would stumble but not quit. I pushed the plane in the hangar and
>the fuel inlet hose and the outlet hose were both hanging from the
>engine.... Hummmm, I turned the fuel selector to off and hit the boost
>pump. Sure enough fuel was pouring out of the hose I let about a 1/2
>gallon run out to make sure it was really pumping fuel from the
>tanks...
>
>My question is.... Is this normal? I would think that if you turn the
>fuel selector to off then no fuel would go past the firewall.
>
>Don at airflow wants to sell me a purge valve but I really do not want
>to go that route because most people say it is really for hot starts
>not shutting down. Plus, I like to find the root of a problem not just
>spending more money to take care of a problem by added heavy expensive
>stuff.
>
>Any and all comment welcome!
>
>Jason
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Wingwalk material |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Danielson" <Jdaniel343@bresnan.net>
I bought some of the clear wing walk material from aircraft spruce. I
cut this to the appropriate size, rounded the corners.
I then painted this wing walk material with the paint I used to paint my
plane, PPG Concept.
I then peeled the backing off the wing walk material and applied it to
the plane.
This has been on the plane for 300 hours and shows now wear. Paint still
looks good.
John Danielson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw@aol.com
Subject: RV-List: Wingwalk material
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
Howdy folks-
I've noticed Wicks and ACS are carrying clear wingwalk material. Anyone
tried this stuff? Tried to remove it? I also seem to recall seeing
some grey
wingwalks out there- sources please?
http://www.wicksaircraft.com/catalog/product_detail.php/pid=9691~subid=2
565/in
dex.html
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/clearwingwalk.php
Thanks!
Mark
Message 41
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| Subject: | Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Some of us with long memories wouldn't buy a free lunch from JPI, but it's
your problem only if you choose to make it yours. Check the archives back a
few years to see what they tried to do to our man Matt and his Matronics.
Terry
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Joe & Jan Connell
Subject: RV-List: Choosing an Engine Monitor JPI EDM-700 vs EI UBG-16-4M
--> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
Greetings,
I'm building an RV-9A with an Aerosport Power O-320
and a FP prop. I'm trying choose between a JPI EDM-700
vs a EI UBG-16-4M for the engine monitor. The price
through Chief Aircraft is almost a wash. Since all of the
aviation mags have both of them as advertisers, there is
no neutral party I can find to evaluate them. Either one would
be fine with me, but I'd like your insights...
Thanks...
Joe Connell, RV-9A, N95JJ, finishing
Stewartville, MN
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Re: Cleveland static ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: mark manda <mark2nite@yahoo.com>
Ah shoot. So I will have ASI errors then with my
static ports. Take a look at them in my RV file if
you get a chance. hope the link works.
http://f1.pg.briefcase.yahoo.com/mark2nite
mark
riverside,ca
--- Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England
> <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>
> Kevin Horton wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton
> <khorton01@rogers.com>
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
> >>
> >>I remember reading somewhere some time ago about
> airspeed indicator error
> >>using the Cleveland static ports vs. Van's rivets.
> Searched archives,
> >>didn't find
> >>specifics. I believe my airspeed indicator is
> reading low and wondering if
> >>the Cleveland static ports may have something to
> do with it.
> >>Anyone with actual experience on this issue?
> >>Dale Ensing
> >>RV6A N118DE
> >>
> >>
> >
> >I'm on the road this week, working very long days,
> so I wasn't keeping up
> >to date on the RV-List.
> >
> >The ideal static port would be at a location where
> the pressure was equal
> >to the free stream pressure at every flight
> condition. Unfortunately, the
> >air flow has to accelerate and decelerate as it
> goes around the aircraft,
> >and Bernoulli's Law tells us that this will cause
> the pressure to
> >change. At any given flight condition there are a
> number of locations on
> >the aircraft where the pressure is equal to the
> free stream static
> >pressure. But, if you change flight conditions,
> these locations end up
> >somewhere else. It is very, very difficult to find
> a good location for
> >static ports.
> >
> >Van's static port is a domed head pop rivet. Some
> people are offended by
> >the protruding head, and replace it with something
> that is flatter, like
> >the Cleaveland or ACS static ports. But you need
> to realize that Van isn't
> >stupid, and there is a reason why he used a
> protruding static port - it
> >works. The airflow will have to accelerate a bit
> as it goes over that
> >domed head, and this will cause the pressure to
> fall. In other words, if
> >you have a more flush static port, at the same
> location, this port will
> >sense a higher pressure. ASI readings are a
> function of the difference
> >between pitot and static pressures, so the flatter
> static port will lead to
> >lower ASI readings.
> >
> >I've seem info from several builders who have
> modified the flush static
> >ports to make them more like Van's design, and they
> reported that the
> >accuracy of their ASI and altimeter improved. I
> have also seen messages
> >from two builders who are sure that their ASI is
> accurate with the flatter
> >static ports. And I bet most RVers have no idea
> how accurate their ASI and
> >altimeter are at all. Every RV is a bit different,
> due to small changes in
> >skin contour ahead of the static port, so every one
> will have a slightly
> >different static system error. And every ASI has a
> different instrument
> >error. If you are lucky, the error in your ASI
> will cancel out the error
> >in your static system.
> >
> >If your ASI reads a bit low, that is no big deal,
> except you should lower
> >your max flap speed and VNE a bit to compensate.
> But, if you fly IFR you
> >need to understand that static system errors also
> affect the altimeter. I
> >wouldn't want to be shooting instrument approaches
> without knowing what
> >errors my altimeter had, and compensating for them.
> >
> >You also have to understand that ASIs have
> instrument error too, so at
> >first glance there is no way of knowing whether
> your problem is ASI
> >instrument error, pitot-static leaks, static system
> error or a problem with
> >the way you determined the ASI accuracy.
> >
> >I've got a bunch of info on my web site on how to
> check the ASI accuracy
> >using a homemade water manometer. Then, I've got
> info on how to do static
> >system accuracy flight testing, including a
> spreadsheet to crunch the
> >data. See:
> >
> >http://members.rogers.com/khorton/rvlinks/ssec.html
> >
> >The whole list of links on pitot-static systems is
> at:
> >
>
>http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/phplinks/index.php?PID=47
> >
> >Kevin Horton
> >RV-8 (Finishing Kit)
> >Ottawa, Canada
> >http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
> >
>
> I'm one of the guys Kevin helped (over 5 years ago).
> I've never been too
> interested in indicated airspeed except knowing what
> it reads when I'm
> about to stall. I had noticed that my cruise ASI
> indication (RV-4) in
> still air was about 10 kts below what the LORAN was
> telling me & just
> wrote it off as normal aircraft quality stuff. The
> only reason I got
> concerned about this issue was that after an
> altimeter I failure &
> replacement I happened to glance at the new
> altimeter while doing a
> 200+mph pass down the runway at my home strip. I
> discovered that I was
> flying about 75' below field elevation & surviving
> the experience.
>
> Kevin asked if I had flush static ports; I did. He
> advised adding
> 'bumps' over the ports; I did (heads from 3/16" pop
> rivets, RTV'd over
> the ports). Not only did it remove the plane's
> ability to fly 75' below
> field elevation at 200mph, but it improved my cruise
> speed by 10 kts :-)
> (ASI now agreed with LORAN in still air).
>
> <joke about functioning a/c parts & airshow judging
> deleted from this
> space>
>
> Charlie
> (Thanks again, Kevin.)
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
=== message truncated ===
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