RV-List Digest Archive

Thu 01/20/05


Total Messages Posted: 29



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:35 AM - Re: Dynon ramblings (Todd Bartrim)
     2. 02:16 AM - Re: Swirl Scratches in Plexi (Jeff Point)
     3. 02:58 AM - Re: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
     4. 03:57 AM - Richmond, KY i39 RV flyin (Dana Overall)
     5. 06:03 AM - Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes (Darwin N. Barrie)
     6. 06:08 AM - Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting (Scott Bilinski)
     7. 06:14 AM - Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders (Ed Anderson)
     8. 06:47 AM - Re: Swirl Scratches in Plexi (linn walters)
     9. 06:56 AM - Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes (Ollie Washburn)
    10. 07:29 AM - Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders (DAVID REEL)
    11. 07:32 AM - steering link follow up report (Turbo Tom)
    12. 08:34 AM - lasar bargain (John Huft)
    13. 09:04 AM - Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders (Dan Checkoway)
    14. 10:02 AM - Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders (Jeff Dowling)
    15. 10:58 AM - RV-7A Rudder ()
    16. 11:46 AM - Tropic Aero in Ft. Lauderdale -- Excellent business relationship (Joe & Jan Connell)
    17. 11:52 AM - Re: RV7-List: RV-7A Rudder (Charlie England)
    18. 11:55 AM - Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes (Keck, David)
    19. 12:23 PM - Re: Re: RV7-List: RV-7A Rudder (Dave Figgins)
    20. 12:39 PM - Re: Ed Sterba Prop (Bob 1)
    21. 01:09 PM - Off topic items DO NOT ARCHIVE ()
    22. 01:46 PM - Re: Ed Sterba Prop (Scott Bilinski)
    23. 05:01 PM - Re: Gascolator (Mark Grieve)
    24. 05:01 PM - wing skin overlap (Dave Bergh)
    25. 06:53 PM - Re: wing skin overlap (Mike Nellis)
    26. 06:56 PM - Re: Swirl Scratches in Plexi (Alex Peterson)
    27. 07:38 PM - Re: Dynon ramblings  (Douglas A. Fischer)
    28. 08:05 PM - Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting (LarryRobertHelming)
    29. 08:06 PM - Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders (Jerry Springer)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:35:52 AM PST US
    From: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net>
    Subject: Dynon ramblings
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Bartrim" <haywire@telus.net> Hi Dwight; Hang in there a little longer. I was lucky enough to receive one of their first heated AOA probes. I haven't flown in icing conditions and of coarse I hope I never do, but I periodically check the probe for proper heating on the ground and so far it has worked well (uncomfortable to hold on to it). The AOA works great as well. I also have the PSS AOA system installed and I find that the Dynon AOA system tracks it very closely. I recently received a service bulletin from Dynon stating that their reliability testing has shown a low, but unacceptable failure rate of the heating circuitry. They request that it be treated as a non-heated pitot and don't recommend it's use in IMC. They are working on a solution and have offered a full refund if desired or they will ship replacements as soon as this is issue is resolved. My dealings with them to date have been extremely positive. They do their best to not ship a product until it's ready for market, as they want satisfied, if impatient customers. One only has to read the archives to see what happens when another company delivers before the product is ready. I once had to return my Dynon for repair due to solely my own error (static discharge while installing with butane soldering iron... non-grounded tip). I knew better and it shouldn't have happened but even though I was up front and admitted fault, they didn't care and repaired it free of charge with exactly 1 week turn around time from the day I removed it from my plane to the day I reinstalled it... and I live in Canada! I am a very satisfied customer and encourage any others that are getting impatient to just hang in there a little longer... It's a great product and worth the wait! Todd Bartrim RV9Endurance 13B Turbo Rotary C-FSTB "The world will always have a place for those that bring hard work and determination to the things they do." I'm waiting to close up one of my wings because I'd like to plumb the pitot while things are wide open. I intend to install a Dynon and want to use *their* pitot so I can get the *their* AOA functionality. I'm starting to think I made a mistake counting on this particular product to come to market in a reasonable time though. Very frustrating. -- Dwight


    Message 2


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    Time: 02:16:13 AM PST US
    From: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
    Subject: Re: Swirl Scratches in Plexi
    --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com> Absolutely. Try Scratch-Off. There was a write-up in the RVator a few issues ago. It's similar in concept to Micro-mesh, but uses progresively finer liquid compounds and foam polishing wheels (in a drill) Very good stuff. Van's carries it now, as does AC$ and others. http://www.vansaircraft.com/cgi-bin/catalog.cgi?ident=1106216018-444-258&browse=airframe&product=scratch-off Jeff Point RV-6 Milwaukee WI > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 02:58:19 AM PST US
    From: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
    Subject: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures
    --> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky) I have been eye witness to a C-130 crash scene right after the incident that killed everyone onboard. It was flown into fields adjacent an airport via dumb ass pilot executing his unpublished missed approach right into the side of a hill. Part of the overhwhelming visual assault at the time was the completely polar states of different parts of the airplane and the personal belongings of the passengers. The tail section broke free intact and rested upright AHEAD of many of the other fuselage parts and looked like it could have been reused. Other denser parts were twisted and mangled unrecognizable. I stepped on a passenger camera that was bent almost 90 degrees. It was a twilite zone experience at the time. I don't know how the hell you can look at those 9/11 pictures and conclude anything other than someone other than a professional in this sort of stuff would have to be a complete idoit to try and read anything into how/where the pieces are scatter around. And a dumbass for asking the internet. But I do know a lot of people died and Ben Laden took credit for it publicly eventually so what the hell left is there to do but pay your respects to the innocents that died in the plane and in the Pentagon. do not archive -------------- Original message -------------- > --> RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski" > > > I know that plane was crashed into the Pentagon but I don't see a need for > an apology for asking that question. I know too many idiots (3) who've seen > pictures like that and say "common sense" should tell me that the crash was > staged. What we have here is probably someone who was shown those pictures > and didn't have a good response to say how it was possible that part could > have ended up in that condition so they posted the question to a forum that > could maybe give them the answer. > > I'm an engineer with some experience in impact physics and to me those > pictures are not at all inconsistant with a plane crash or explosion. High > speed impacts defy the laws of physics as we usually know them and common > sense as we know it. One classic example is a wood dowel rod fired at ultra > high speed through a thick steel armor plate with almost no damage to the > wooden rod. > > Anyway, thanks to the poster for asking the question, and the answer is yes > that that part's condition is not inconsistent with a high speed impact or > explosion. > > As for off-topic posts, aren't most posts off-topic for most of us? I'm > still riveting my wings together but I've got to delete 50 messages a day > from people talking about some "Dynon" things and engines and whatever else. > :) Just kidding, its a great forum but I don't want people to be > discouraged from asking a question when they have one. If you don't want to > read a primer question, just delete it like I a delete a Dynon question, > don't add to the clutter by complaining about it (no offense intended to > Kathleen, my first instinct was to post the same response she did). (And > now that I think about it I'm adding to the clutter by posting this). > > Anyway, since we're now off-topic, I have have a dumb question - what the > heck is a gascolator? > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kathleen (rv7) > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" > > Please! Are we really going to take the bait here? Yes, this is really > way off topic. You were right to apologize. > > Kathleen Evans > > Do not archive > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy Cotnoir > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RV-List: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Guy Cotnoir" > > Hello everyone, > I would like, first and foremost, to apologize in advance for my off topic > post since it won't be about RV airplane building techniques. > > A friend of mine showed me some pictures of a debris found at an airplane > crash site. As soon as I saw the pictures, I could not believe that this was > an actual airplane crash debris. You can see the pictures of the debris in > those two links below: > > http://renovation.pentagon.mil/Phoenix/9-11-2001/a26-DSC_0446-1.jpg > http://t2news.navy.m7z.net/management/photodb/photos/010911-N-6157F-001.jpg > (it's the same part with different angles, lighting and lenses) > > I know that most of you are very familiar with aircraft metals and aircraft > riveting techniques. I also know that few of you might even have worked on > Boeings a few times so I ask you to please look carefully at the two > pictures above and tell me if you think it is possible for an aircraft > component to be detached in a crash and still leaving the rivet locations as > seen relatively undamaged. > > I mean, I think that a part pulled away from it's rivets would be severely > damaged (dimpled, torn or bruised) around the areas were rivets once were > Please look at it and tell me what you think, I know you will understand > what I mean the second you look closely at the pictures. > > So I would like to know if you think this is possibly a part torn away from > a crashed airplane or if you think it might be something else. > > I know this is not the in the subject theme of this forum and I understand > that answers to my question might have some political implications so please > contact me off list if you prefer at guy_cotnoir@msn.com > > Thanx, > Guy Cotnoir > Toronto, Canada > > > Message transport security by GatewayDefender.com > 12:46:39 PM ET - 1/19/2005 > > > > > > I have been eye witness to a C-130 crash scene right after the incident that killed everyone onboard.It was flown intofields adjacent an airport via dumb ass pilot executing his unpublished missed approach right into the side of a hill.Part of the overhwhelming visual assault at the time was the completely polar states of different parts of the airplane and the personal belongings of the passengers. The tail section broke free intact and rested upright AHEAD of many of the other fuselage parts and looked like it could have been reused. Other denser parts were twisted and mangled unrecognizable. I stepped on a passenger camera that was bent almost 90 degrees. It was a twilite zone experience at the time. I don't know how the hell you can look at those 9/11 pictures and conclude anything other than someone other than a professional in this sort of stuff would have to be a complete idoit to try and read anything into how/where the pieces are scatter around. And a dumbass for asking the internet. But I do know a lot of people died and Ben Laden took credit for it publicly eventually so what the hell left is there to do but pay your respects to the innocents that died in the plane and in the Pentagon. do not archive -------------- Original message -------------- -- RV-List message posted by: "Brett Morawski" <BRETT.MORAWSKI@BUCKEYE-EXPRESS.COM> I know that plane was crashed into the Pentagon but I don't see a need for an apology for asking that question. I know too many idiots (3) who've seen pictures like that and say "common sense" should tell me that the crash was staged. What we have here is probably someone who was shown those pictures and didn't have a good response to say how it was possible that part could have ended up in that condition so they posted the question to a forum that could maybe give them the answer. I'm an engineer with some experience in impact physics and to me those pictures are not at all inconsistant with a plane crash or explosion. High speed impacts defy the laws of physics as we usually know them and common sense as we know it. One classic example is a wood dowel rod fired at ultra high speed through a thick steel armor plate with almost no damage to the wooden rod. Anyway, thanks to the poster for asking the question, and the answer is yes that that part's condition is not inconsistent with a high speed impact or explosion. As for off-topic posts, aren't most posts off-topic for most of us? I'm still riveting my wings together but I've got to delete 50 messages a day from people talking about some "Dynon" things and engines and whatever else. :) Just kidding, its a great forum but I don't want people to be discouraged from asking a question when they have one. If you don't want to read a primer question, just delete it like I a delete a Dynon question, don't add to the clutter by complaining about it (no offense intended to Kathleen, my first instinct was to post the same response she did). (And now that I think about it I'm adding to the clutter by posting this). Anyway, since we're now off-topic, I have have a dumb question - what the heck is a gascolator? -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Kathleen (rv7) To: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: RE: RV-List: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures -- RV-List message posted by: "Kathleen (rv7)" <KATHLEEN@RV7.US> Please! Are we really going to take the bait here? Yes, this is really way off topic. You were right to apologize. Kathleen Evans Do not archive -----Original Message----- From : owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Guy Cotnoir To: rv-list@matronics.com Subject: RV-List: Suspicious Aircraft Debris Pictures -- RV-List message posted by: "Guy Cotnoir" <GUY_COTNOIR@MSN.COM> Hello everyone, I would like, first and foremost, to apologize in advance for my off topic post since it won't be about RV airplane building techniques. A friend of mine showed me some pictures of a debris found at an airplane crash site. As soon as I saw the pictures, I could not believe that this was an actual airplane crash debris. You can see the pictures of the debris in those two links below: http://renovation.pentagon.mil/Phoenix/9-11-2001/a26-DSC_0446-1.jpg http://t2news.navy.m7z.net/management/photodb/photos/010911-N-6157F-001.jpg (it's the same part with d ifferent angles, lighting and lenses) I know that most of you are very familiar with aircraft metals and aircraft riveting techniques. I also know that few of you might even have worked on Boeings a few times so I ask you to please look carefully at the two pictures above and tell me if you think it is possible for an aircraft component to be detached in a crash and still leaving the rivet locations as seen relatively undamaged. I mean, I think that a part pulled away from it's rivets would be severely damaged (dimpled, torn or bruised) around the areas were rivets once were Please look at it and tell me what you think, I know you will understand what I mean the second you look closely at the pictures. So I would like to know if you think this is possibly a part torn away from a crashed airplane or if you think it might be something else. <BR > I know this is not the in the subject theme of this forum and I understand that answers to my question might have some political implications so please contact me off list if you prefer at guy_cotnoir@msn.com Thanx, Guy Cotnoir Toronto, Canada Message transport security by GatewayDefender.com 12:46:39 PM ET - 1/19/2005 .com/subscription


    Message 4


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    Time: 03:57:58 AM PST US
    From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Richmond, KY i39 RV flyin
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com> Just a heads up gang, this years date is set as February 26th. weather permitting. This is what was in the RVator last year. I'll keep everyone informed. WOW, what can I say? 86+ RVs and over 107 total aircraft this past February 28th at i39 Richmond, KY. http://members16.clubphoto.com/rick742624/guest.phtml Big thanks to Rick Schwandt for the pictures. What started out as an informal UFO (Ultimate Fly Out) by the Ohio Valley RVators to my shop, turned into a great kickoff for this years fly-in season. As most on the RV lists are aware, I moved the event from my shop to the airport two weeks prior to the event. At that time, I made some phone calls to round up door prizes. The weather forecast for the entire east coast promised beautiful weather, this time we were not disappointed. The first arrival was from the Michigan, Indiana border and was at 7:40AM. By this time the local EAA chapter had coffee and free donuts. Shortly thereafter, the pattern was full of RVs coming from all directions. It was a continuous dialogue of flight of four inbound with traffic in sight, flight of two following flight of two. Give credit to the pilots, at no time did I ever witness anything remotely compromising. I took care of parking RVs on the ramp until it filled. The ramp was double stacked, leaving taxi space between rows. My youngest son and a friend took care of directing arrivals on the taxiway where pilots were allowed to park there own airplanes as they wished. The taxiway is nearly 1500 long. We had RVs and certified, parked wingtip to wingtip nearly to the end of the taxiway. By the way, we tried to only allow RVs onto the ramp. Reserve parking was saved for TeamRV and the Ohio Valley RVators as they promised to put on three different formation flights. TeamRV, led by Mike Stewart arrived from Atlanta with a flight of 9, as did Ohio Valley, led by Rick Gray. Ohio Valley had either 17 or 18 arrivals. Indy Wing topped the list with 20 RVs which included 2 fire breathing Super 8s. 12 represented the TN VALLEY BUILDER GROUP; the Palmetto Wing had 3 along with 3 from SERV. I believe the group from Pontiac, MI made it in along with a two from Florida, west from MO and from north east of DC. At noon I took a little break and started counting airplanes. A couple RVs had already left by then so I added them to the count. At noon we had 86 RVs and 107 total aircraft for the fly-in. More RVs arrived after noon but I did not try and keep count, as I was busy with lunch, formation flying and the door prizes. I also squeezed in a little shopping time walking and looking at RVs. After a lunch of hamburgers, hotdogs and free Hooters wings TeamRV, as a flight 5 and Ohio Valley, as a flight of 5 put on individual formation flight demonstrations, which would make the most harden envious. Icing on the cake came form a final 8 ship formation showcase as a joint formation flight demonstration made up of both teams. A reporter and photographer went up with TeamRV. Stunning photographs now grace the front page of the local Sunday paper. http://www.richmondregister.com/articles/2004/02/29/news/news01.txt Door prizes were given out from the following supporters: Van's Aircraft, Builders Bookstore, Control Vision AnyWhere Map, EZ Pilot Auto Pilot, engalt.com/aviation.htm fabulous post light system, Experimentalair.com CAD designed and water jet cut instrument panel, Kitlog Pro, Grand Rapids, Trutrack autopilot discounts from aircraftextras.com, Avery and Cleaveland. Thanks to all who attended and yes, same time next year!! Dana Overall Richmond, KY i39 RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic" Finish kit 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon. http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:03:00 AM PST US
    From: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net> Hi Dennis, I live at an airpark in Chandler AZ (P19). We have 65 lots, 25 are semi custom homes from 2100 to 3000 sq ft. The hangars are all 1800 square feet. This is large enough to put two planes in. One guy has a Husky and an A36. Another a Muskateer and a Citabria. On the custom side there are hangars from 2000 sq ft to one that is 6500 ft. Here there is only one factor deciding hangar size (on the custom homes), Ratio of hangar to home size. Then, anything over 3000 sq ft must have fire sprinklers. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:08:02 AM PST US
    From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
    Subject: Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting
    --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> Sounds like you did it right to me. At 10:54 PM 1/19/2005 -0500, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com > >Hi all > >So step something says, straighten all the ribs using your handy-dandy >fluting pliers. I spent quite a while getting the ribs all straight and >the flanges >bent to 90 degrees. In doing all that, the parts of the rib flanges where >the rivet holes attach to the skin and spars is all pretty flat. In >between, it >looks pretty scalloped. Did I do this wrong? Is the skin supposed to be in >perfect contact with the entire rib? Somehow, this just doesn't look >right to >me. I would think the skin should really lie flat on the whole surface, but >I am not sure how you accomplish that with ribs bent as they are. Guidance? > >Regards, > >Michael >RV8 Empennage >San Ramon, CA > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:14:47 AM PST US
    From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com> Paul, unless you intend to do extended inverted flight, I would recommend dropping the flop tube. I had a forced landing in part- due to a flop tube which came unscrewed from its fitting after 180 hours of flight leaving the last 3 1/2 gallons in the bottom of the tank unavailable. The other part contributing to the force landing was my erroneous convincing myself the problem was other than fuel starvation (I mean after all I had 3 gallons remaining in that tank) and not switch to my other tank. Fortunately, after a 12 miles glide I touched down uneventfully on the 4000 ft tarmac at Winchester, TN. So unless you are going inverted oil/fuel system and intend something other than "Gentleman" aerobatics, I would ditch the flop tube. Also I think it easier to place the fuel quantity sender.. Just my personal opinion of course Ed Anderson Matthews, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Trotter" <ptrotter@acm.org> Subject: RV-List: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org> > > I am about to build my fuel tanks and it is time to decide on whether to use > flop tubes or fixed fuel pickups and whether to use float or capacitive fuel > senders. I am interested in anyone's comments these topics. > > I expect it is unlikely that I will do any aerobatics beyond simple positive > G maneuvers so it probably doesn't make sense to put in flop tubes. Also, > for any maneuvers that really require a flop tube, I would need an inverted > oil system as well, which I am not planning on putting in. On the other > hand, I can't see any real downside to flop tubes as they may give me > flexibility in the future. > > With respect to fuel senders, I am leaning toward capacitive, simply because > there are no moving parts. I have heard, though, that some people have had > trouble calibrating them. They do allow me to put in flop tubes without > relocating the float to a different location. Also, if problems arise with > capacitive senders, it is possible to install float senders after the fact > if necessary. Of course float senders are much easier to find gauges that > they work with. > > I suppose I should just keep it simple and use the tried and true fixed fuel > pickup with float senders, but I hate to do something that might limit me in > the future. > > Any comments would be appreciated. > __________________ > Paul Trotter > RV-8 82080 Wing Kit > N801PT (Reserved) > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 06:47:43 AM PST US
    From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Swirl Scratches in Plexi
    --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> Paul Besing wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com> > >Off RV topic, but I've been tasked with getting our C-172's windscreens >polished. Any recommendations out there that does not include Micro Mesh? >Any polishes that will remove the scratches? > >People have been using paper towels (ouch) on the windows, and landing into >the sun you can't see anything! > >Thanks. > >Paul Besing >RV-6A Sold >RV-10 Soon >Kitlog Builder's Software >www.kitlog.com > >do not archive > Scratches can be deeper than they appear! Micro-mesh is the way to go ..... more expensive but less labor intensive. Here there is no substitute for the strong-arm method. You just can't hurry it. But, to answer your question ..... go to your neighborhood auto paint store and buy some wet-sand paper, in grits from 1000 to 6000 (1000, 3000, 5000, 6000) should do it. Also get some bottles of compound and a foam pad for your drill. Do not use anything but your hand, paper and copious amounts of water until you're happy with the removal of the scratches. the 1000 should make it milky ..... use it a lot, and use the 6000 to make it clear. do not sand in circles. Sand back and forth then change 90 degrees. When the scratches are gone (or until your arm gives out) use the polishing compound and the foam pad. Keep the pad wet ..... I use a spray bottle ..... while you're polishing and replenish the polish often. That's it in a nutshell. It is a lot of work!!! Since it's the club plane, make sure you have 4 or 5 guys there to do the sanding, otherwise the airplane won't be able to fly for a few days ..... up to a week if you're by yourself. Linn > > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:56:38 AM PST US
    From: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net>
    Subject: Re: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Ollie Washburn" <ollie-6a@prodigy.net> Don't you all just love it when someone gives instruction on some thing they are not part of. I live on an airpark in Fl that is in 2 counties, however the rules are the same in both. If the hanger is attached to the house the max is 2000 sq. ft.unless you put in the fire protection of a commercial building which would probably cost as much as the home. On our airpark the hanger can be separate from the house and then it can be larger. I have a neighbor and friend that has built some of the homes here and believe me if there was a way around it he would know. We did have one person that built an attached hanger that was larger but during construction a portioned solid wall was built across the rear to make the hanger part 2000 sq ft. I guess he called the part behind the partion storage etc. Note: He has since torn down the wall. Ollie 6A Airpark Central Fl. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" <wayne@engravers.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes > --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne @ Aircraft Engravers" > <wayne@engravers.net> > > To Jeff, > > First, who are "they" > Secondly, have whomever is drawing up your plans to label it "HANGAR" > > TBC > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com> > Subject: Re: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" >> <shempdowling@earthlink.net> >> >> The problem is that they are calling it a garage, which dictates the max >> sq >> ftage. >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com> >> To: <rv-list@matronics.com> >> Subject: RE: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes >> >> >>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com> >>> >>>>>>HELP. I purchased a lot at an airpark several months ago and just >>>>>>found >>>>>>out the county has adopted a new fire code restricting the size of the >>>>>>hangar to 2000 sq ft. I had planned on a 3000. Im wondering if >>>>>>anyone >>>>>>has dealt with this and knows of a way around it. I believe its a >>>>>>fire >>>>>>code issue so maybe a fire wall or sprinkler system would fit the >>>>>>bill. >>>>>>One of the subdivision requirements is that the hangar must be >>>>>>attached >>>>>>to the house. >>> >>> >>> Don't call it a hanger, Call it a 4 car garage with a large single >>> opening >>> door. . . . >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:29:14 AM PST US
    From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
    Subject: Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders
    --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net> One downside to flop tubes over fixed pickups is an increase in unusable fuel. The fixed pickup can be placed right near the bottom inboard corner where a flop tube would get jammed & refuse to flop. Also, compare the reliability/longevity of the two. Nothing major, but definitely different. Dave Reel - RV8A


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:32:26 AM PST US
    From: "Turbo Tom" <turbotom@mindspring.com>
    Subject: steering link follow up report
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Turbo Tom" <turbotom@mindspring.com> >>I'm looking >> for a >> couple of steering links TT > > I bought mine (a while ago) from Mark Frederick at Team Rocket. He may > have inventory or know how to reach Terry. > Hey Listers! Thanks for all the suggestions. Mark says he thinks Terry is out of the aviation business, but he will try to contact him. I will post any further information. TT


    Message 12


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    Time: 08:34:49 AM PST US
    From: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
    Subject: lasar bargain
    "rv-list@matronics.com" <rv-list@matronics.com> --> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net> Listers - I have put my LASAR system on ebay. So far, there have been no bids, so looks like someone will get it cheap. I would rather have a fellow lister get the bargain. Item number 4520429755 John Huft


    Message 13


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    Time: 09:04:21 AM PST US
    From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
    Subject: Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com> Data point...my RV-7 has 0.3 gallons unusable in both tanks with flop tubes (as per two tests that ran a tank dry in flight). I don't consider 0.3 gallons an "increase" over what other builders with standard pickup tubes have reported. Your mileage may vary. I'm not necessarily encouraging the use of flop tubes, just want to disspell any rumors that flop tubes always decrease usable fuel. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net> Subject: Re: RV-List: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders > --> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net> > > One downside to flop tubes over fixed pickups is an increase in unusable fuel. The fixed pickup can be placed right near the bottom inboard corner where a flop tube would get jammed & refuse to flop. Also, compare the reliability/longevity of the two. Nothing major, but definitely different. > > Dave Reel - RV8A > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 10:02:17 AM PST US
    From: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net> Of course this is all about personal opinion, but.. I would put a flop tube in because its easy to do now and very difficult to do later. That's how I would approach the whole building experience. I bought a partially completed rv and am continuing to re-do stuff. If you ever plan on selling your bird, especially an 8, I would think a flop tube would help the resale value (just like 5 pt harnesses). do not archive Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 150 hours Chicago/Louisville ----- Original Message ----- From: "Paul Trotter" <ptrotter@acm.org> Subject: RV-List: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders > --> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org> > > I am about to build my fuel tanks and it is time to decide on whether to > use > flop tubes or fixed fuel pickups and whether to use float or capacitive > fuel > senders. I am interested in anyone's comments these topics. > > I expect it is unlikely that I will do any aerobatics beyond simple > positive > G maneuvers so it probably doesn't make sense to put in flop tubes. Also, > for any maneuvers that really require a flop tube, I would need an > inverted > oil system as well, which I am not planning on putting in. On the other > hand, I can't see any real downside to flop tubes as they may give me > flexibility in the future. > > With respect to fuel senders, I am leaning toward capacitive, simply > because > there are no moving parts. I have heard, though, that some people have had > trouble calibrating them. They do allow me to put in flop tubes without > relocating the float to a different location. Also, if problems arise with > capacitive senders, it is possible to install float senders after the fact > if necessary. Of course float senders are much easier to find gauges that > they work with. > > I suppose I should just keep it simple and use the tried and true fixed > fuel > pickup with float senders, but I hate to do something that might limit me > in > the future. > > Any comments would be appreciated. > __________________ > Paul Trotter > RV-8 82080 Wing Kit > N801PT (Reserved) > > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 10:58:36 AM PST US
    Subject: RV-7A Rudder
    From: <dfiggins@es.com>
    --> RV-List message posted by: <dfiggins@es.com> Just a quick question, finishing the rudder installation and the dimension callout for the 3 rod end bearings appears to put the rudder at an angle to the VS rather than parallel, as the dimensions increase from top to bottom, is this correct? Or am I reading the drawing incorrectly? Dave Figgins RV-7A (waiting for wings) Do not archive


    Message 16


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    Time: 11:46:23 AM PST US
    From: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com>
    Subject: Tropic Aero in Ft. Lauderdale -- Excellent business relationship
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Joe & Jan Connell" <jconnell@rconnect.com> Fellow builders: At the advice of a fellow RV builder, I ordered a transponder and intercom from Tropic Aero in Fort Lauderdale, FL. In my haste, I unintentionally ordered a Garmin SL-70R instead of the SL-70. After realizing my mistake, I returned the SL-70R and ordered another transponder. Tropic Aero's owner, Jerry Corbone, personally waived the re-stocking fee, despite the fact it had been a one-time special order from Garmin. Jerry was gracious in accommodating my naivety. It's refreshing to do business with a company like Tropic Aero. (I have no affiliation or financial relationship with Tropic Aero.) Joe Connell Stewartville, MN RV-9A N95JJ Instrument Panel


    Message 17


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    Time: 11:52:54 AM PST US
    From: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7A Rudder
    --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net> dfiggins@es.com wrote: >--> RV7-List message posted by: <dfiggins@es.com> > >Just a quick question, finishing the rudder installation and the >dimension callout for the 3 rod end bearings appears to put the rudder >at an angle to the VS rather than parallel, as the dimensions increase >from top to bottom, is this correct? Or am I reading the drawing >incorrectly? > >Dave Figgins RV-7A (waiting for wings) >Do not archive > It's been a while since I mounted mine, but I think its because the rudder is tapered (fatter at the bottom) & the spar isn't parallel to the rolled leading edge.


    Message 18


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    Time: 11:55:05 AM PST US
    Subject: Passing fire codes for hangar homes
    From: "Keck, David" <david.keck@amd.com>
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Keck, David" <david.keck@amd.com> Hey Dennis, I live at an airpark in Texas and most hangars at our airpark are between 1600 and 2000 sq feet. Plenty big enough for one plane and a nice shop. And you may want to figure out your tax obligation per square foot in your area. Turns out my 2000 sq foot attached hangar costs me nearly $150/month in taxes. Dave -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Darwin N. Barrie Subject: Re: RV-List: Passing fire codes for hangar homes --> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net> Hi Dennis, I live at an airpark in Chandler AZ (P19). We have 65 lots, 25 are semi custom homes from 2100 to 3000 sq ft. The hangars are all 1800 square feet. This is large enough to put two planes in. One guy has a Husky and an A36. Another a Muskateer and a Citabria. On the custom side there are hangars from 2000 sq ft to one that is 6500 ft. Here there is only one factor deciding hangar size (on the custom homes), Ratio of hangar to home size. Then, anything over 3000 sq ft must have fire sprinklers. Darwin N. Barrie Chandler AZ


    Message 19


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    Time: 12:23:40 PM PST US
    From: "Dave Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Re: RV7-List: RV-7A Rudder
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net> Your right, I guess that is a DUH and smack the forehead for me, I just need to get the rolled edge gap parallel Thanks Dave Do not archive -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charlie England Subject: RV-List: Re: RV7-List: RV-7A Rudder --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net> dfiggins@es.com wrote: >--> RV7-List message posted by: <dfiggins@es.com> > >Just a quick question, finishing the rudder installation and the >dimension callout for the 3 rod end bearings appears to put the rudder >at an angle to the VS rather than parallel, as the dimensions increase >from top to bottom, is this correct? Or am I reading the drawing >incorrectly? > >Dave Figgins RV-7A (waiting for wings) >Do not archive > It's been a while since I mounted mine, but I think its because the rudder is tapered (fatter at the bottom) & the spar isn't parallel to the rolled leading edge. advertising on the Matronics Forums.


    Message 20


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    Time: 12:39:01 PM PST US
    From: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Ed Sterba Prop
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net> A wood prop absorbs a lot of vibration > and smooths things out. For the money and looks I like wood. > > Red Milner ++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ Personal choices and compromises abound. For looks, I like wood too, but.... Not good in rain. Not good at smoothing out 4 cyl 4-stroke power pulses, or achieving the smoothest and most reliable low idle. Heavier blades have the advantage for these flywheel duties. I currently use a Sensenich fixed metal prop on my 0-320 RV-3. However, I've been very satisfied using a wood prop with a Mark Landol 12 lb circular weight mated to a standard Lycoming flywheel. Bob


    Message 21


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    Time: 01:09:15 PM PST US
    From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Off topic items DO NOT ARCHIVE
    --> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com> If someone makes a "off topic" post or an inappropriate post, may I respectfully suggest we reply direct to that person off list, and politely point out the error of their ways, if you feel it necessary. If you would like to flame me a new one, please send it off list. Thanks Ya All; no offense, but ignoring a post may be the best approach. Feel free to ignore this one. Cheers G do not archive ---------------------------------


    Message 22


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    Time: 01:46:28 PM PST US
    From: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
    Subject: Re: Ed Sterba Prop
    --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com> If you want all out best performance its hard to beat metal. At 02:37 PM 1/20/2005 -0600, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net> > >A wood prop absorbs a lot of vibration > > and smooths things out. For the money and looks I like wood. > > > > Red Milner > >++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++ > >Personal choices and compromises abound. > >For looks, I like wood too, but.... > >Not good in rain. >Not good at smoothing out 4 cyl 4-stroke power pulses, or achieving the >smoothest and most reliable low idle. Heavier blades have the advantage for >these flywheel duties. > >I currently use a Sensenich fixed metal prop on my 0-320 RV-3. However, I've >been very satisfied using a wood prop with a Mark Landol 12 lb circular >weight mated to a standard Lycoming flywheel. > > >Bob > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190


    Message 23


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    Time: 05:01:27 PM PST US
    From: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
    Subject: Re: Gascolator
    clamav-milter version 0.80j on localhost --> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com> Brett, A gascolator is a fuel filter and water separator that you drain prior to flight. It is located ahead of the firewall at a low point of the fuel system as to best trap water. On Cessnas it is often controlled by a cable whose handle is located inside the oil filler door on the cowling. Pull the handle and the airplane takes a whiz. Make your mechanic unhappy and he might bend the discharge tube so that your shoe gets wet. Mark Do not archive Brett Morawski wrote: >A whole bunch of stuff ending with this question: > >Anyway, since we're now off-topic, I have have a dumb question - what the >heck is a gascolator? > > > >


    Message 24


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    Time: 05:01:27 PM PST US
    From: "Dave Bergh" <dbergh@starband.net>
    Subject: wing skin overlap
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Bergh" <dbergh@starband.net> Hello all, I am trying to get my punch list of items done before final riveting of my RV-6 wing skins. I am trying to decide if I am supposed to trim overlapping wing skins at the trailing edge in the flap area on both top and bottom or just the bottom where the flap brace attaches? As far as I can tell on the plans it only shows the bottom skins being trimmed but i seem to recall seeing comments from some who had done top and bottom. Comments. Also where did you place the holes for the wiring conduit and what size holes (conduit)? Dave Bergh Mtn Home, ID RV-6 Slowwwww build!


    Message 25


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    Time: 06:53:49 PM PST US
    From: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com>
    Subject: Re: wing skin overlap
    --> RV-List message posted by: Mike Nellis <mike@bmnellis.com> I documented the modifications you described back in 2001. Cutting a small notch (about 1") worked great. You can see it here. http://bmnellis.com/WingSkinning4.htm Mike Nellis Austin, TX CMRA #32 Honda RC51 '97 YZF1000 '00 YZ426F '47 Stinson 108-2; RV6 (Fuselage) http://bmnellis.com >--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Bergh" <dbergh@starband.net> > >Hello all, >I am trying to get my punch list of items done before final riveting of my RV-6 wing skins. I am trying to decide if I am supposed to trim overlapping wing skins at the trailing edge in the flap area on both top and bottom or just the bottom where the flap brace attaches? As far as I can tell on the plans it only shows the bottom skins being trimmed but i seem to recall seeing comments from some who had done top and bottom. Comments. Also where did you place the holes for the wiring conduit and what size holes (conduit)? >Dave Bergh >Mtn Home, ID >RV-6 Slowwwww build! > > > > --


    Message 26


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    Time: 06:56:01 PM PST US
    From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Swirl Scratches in Plexi
    --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net> > > > Scratches can be deeper than they appear! Micro-mesh is the > way to go > ..... more expensive but less labor intensive. Here there is no > substitute for the strong-arm method. You just can't hurry it. I used Micro Mesh on some windscreen scratches, probably put in about 12 hours using the system before I gave up. I don't doubt that a good outcome was possible, it just was taking an unreasonable amount of time and effort. Then, I got a Scratch-Off kit. Piece of cake, whole thing fixed up in an hour or less. The foam pads for use on a drill are the only way to go. Alex Peterson RV6-A 569 hours Maple Grove, MN http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/


    Message 27


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    Time: 07:38:12 PM PST US
    From: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
    Subject: Re: Dynon ramblings
    clamav-milter version 0.80j on mail5.iserv.net --> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net> I'm not planning to use a Dynon 10 so I don't need the AOA, but heck, I'd still get one for the heated pitot function. I'm on their list when they're available (someday). Doug Fischer -9A Wings do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Jurotich" <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov> Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon ramblings > --> RV-List message posted by: Matt Jurotich <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov> > > Skip the HSI, I need the heated pitiot with angle of attack for the > 10A. Not currently on Dynon's priority list. Anyone else really want the > Dynon heated pitot? > > Matthew M. Jurotich > > NASA/Goddard Space Flight Center > Swales contractor to the > JWST ISIM Systems Engineer > > m/c : 443 > e-mail mail to: <mjurotich@hst.nasa.gov> > phone : 301-286-5919 > fax : 301-286-7021 > > > JWST URL: <http://ngst1.gsfc.nasa.gov > >


    Message 28


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    Time: 08:05:50 PM PST US
    From: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
    Subject: Re: Newbie Nervousness Strikes again: Fluting
    --> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net> You are right, the ribs should contact the skin in a perfect flat togetherness when clecoed together except where your little flutes are. If it is not, look at which way it needs to be bent and bend it a little. 90 degrees is right. I did not have to do much work in making 90 degree bends as mine were pretty much on the mark. My ribs did not lay flat when laid on a table top. The flutes get rid of this curl/bend caused by the manufacturer's 90 degree bend in the curved edge of the rib. You might want to get a local EAA person to look at yours or borrow/buy an Orendorff (sp) building video if this explanation does not help. Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker" Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky) > >--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com > > > >Hi all > > > >So step something says, straighten all the ribs using your handy-dandy > >fluting pliers. I spent quite a while getting the ribs all straight and > >the flanges > >bent to 90 degrees. In doing all that, the parts of the rib flanges where > >the rivet holes attach to the skin and spars is all pretty flat. In > >between, it > >looks pretty scalloped. Did I do this wrong? Is the skin supposed to be in > >perfect contact with the entire rib? Somehow, this just doesn't look > >right to > >me. I would think the skin should really lie flat on the whole surface, but > >I am not sure how you accomplish that with ribs bent as they are. Guidance? > > > >Regards, > > > >Michael > >RV8 Empennage > >San Ramon, CA > > > >


    Message 29


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    Time: 08:06:50 PM PST US
    From: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
    Subject: Re: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders
    --> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net> Jeff Dowling wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net> > >Of course this is all about personal opinion, but.. > >I would put a flop tube in because its easy to do now and very difficult to >do later. That's how I would approach the whole building experience. I >bought a partially completed rv and am continuing to re-do stuff. If you >ever plan on selling your bird, especially an 8, I would think a flop tube >would help the resale value (just like 5 pt harnesses). > >do not archive >Shemp/Jeff Dowling >RV-6A, N915JD >150 hours >Chicago/Louisville >----- Original Message ----- >From: "Paul Trotter" <ptrotter@acm.org> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com> >Subject: RV-List: Of FLop Tubes and Fuel Senders > > > > >>--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org> >> >>I am about to build my fuel tanks and it is time to decide on whether to >>use >>flop tubes or fixed fuel pickups and whether to use float or capacitive >>fuel >>senders. I am interested in anyone's comments these topics. >> >>I expect it is unlikely that I will do any aerobatics beyond simple >>positive >>G maneuvers so it probably doesn't make sense to put in flop tubes. Also, >>for any maneuvers that really require a flop tube, I would need an >>inverted >>oil system as well, which I am not planning on putting in. On the other >>hand, I can't see any real downside to flop tubes as they may give me >>flexibility in the future. >> >>With respect to fuel senders, I am leaning toward capacitive, simply >>because >>there are no moving parts. I have heard, though, that some people have had >>trouble calibrating them. They do allow me to put in flop tubes without >>relocating the float to a different location. Also, if problems arise with >>capacitive senders, it is possible to install float senders after the fact >>if necessary. Of course float senders are much easier to find gauges that >>they work with. >> >>I suppose I should just keep it simple and use the tried and true fixed >>fuel >>pickup with float senders, but I hate to do something that might limit me >>in >>the future. >> >>Any comments would be appreciated. >>__________________ >>Paul Trotter >>RV-8 82080 Wing Kit >>N801PT (Reserved) >> >> >> >> >> > > > As someone pointed out earlier a flop tube is not necessary unless you have all the goodies to go along with it. You need an inverted oil system and if you have a carburated engine it will not run upside down anyway. If you want to do a lot of aerobatics then go all the way and do it right, if you just want a loop, roll, split-s etc. you don't need inverted fuel. IMO Jerry




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