Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:13 AM - Visit to Kissimmee, FL (j1j2h3@juno.com)
2. 05:36 AM - RV9 Elevator (Chenoweth)
3. 05:58 AM - Re: RV9 Elevator (Will Couvillon)
4. 07:16 AM - Re: Swirl Scratches in Plexi (wskimike)
5. 07:20 AM - Re: RV9 Elevator (Turbo Tom)
6. 07:59 AM - Has anyone tried PreKote? (Mike Draper)
7. 08:09 AM - Re: RV9 Elevator (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
8. 08:46 AM - Re: RV9 Elevator (LarryRobertHelming)
9. 10:16 AM - Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight (John Wiegenstein)
10. 11:56 AM - Re: Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight (LARRY ADAMSON)
11. 12:17 PM - Re: Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight (Tony Marshall)
12. 01:41 PM - Re: Has anyone tried PreKote? (Richard Sipp)
13. 02:25 PM - When to drill my elevator control horns? (William Couvillon)
14. 04:17 PM - Re: Visit to Kissimmee, FL (James H Nelson)
15. 04:42 PM - Re: Has anyone tried PreKote? (Charlie Kuss)
16. 05:38 PM - Re: Need Advice on Seattle to Scottsdale Flight (Larry Olson)
17. 05:38 PM - Brass/Copper bus bar (Dana Overall)
18. 05:40 PM - Airport Directory (Alex Peterson)
19. 06:16 PM - Fw: Has anyone tried PreKote? (Richard Sipp)
20. 06:38 PM - Re: test (Gary Zilik)
21. 07:29 PM - Re: When to drill my elevator control horns? (Charles Rowbotham)
22. 09:17 PM - Re: When to drill my elevator control horns? (Richard E. Tasker)
23. 09:35 PM - Re: Airport Directory (linn walters)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Visit to Kissimmee, FL |
--> RV-List message posted by: j1j2h3@juno.com
I will be visiting in Kissimmee, FL March 12 through 18. I would like to
visit any RV builders or owners in the area.
Jim Hasper - RV-7
Giving new meaning to the term "slow build"
Franklin, TN
Do not archive
Message 2
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
I'm approaching the point in elevator construction where I have to rivet stiffeners
to skin and skin to spar. I've managed to avoid having to bend the skin
much by doing the match drilling and dimpling from the "outside".
Skin bending/lifting to the extent needed to rivet looks very intimidating (the
flexing that goes on at the cut-outs for the hinges is particularly scary).
Those who've built the nine probably have noticed the inconsistency between the
instructions ("rivet stiffeners to top of skin, rivet skin to top of spar, rivet
stiffeners to bottom of skin") and the photo in the back where someone is
riveting the spar with all the stiffeners already in place.
So I'm looking for help with the proper sequence of events, with techniques for
safely "lifting" the skin enough to access the area near its leading edge, and
with ideas on riveting stiffeners and spar to skin. I will have a helper when
I do this. Also I'm curious about the technique taught in those week-long
empennage classes.
I have the Orndorff video. Perhaps that describes the best approach?
Thanks for the help.
Bill
Albion, Maine
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Will Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
Bill,
I just finished my elevators and found several tricks that worked best for
me. As for the sequence, rivet all top stiffeners first, then flip it over
and tie down the bottom skin, peel back and rivet in the upper portion of
the spar, rivet the bottom stiffeners, then pop rivet the bottom portion of
the spar. You can see what I did with photos in page 3 of the empennage
section on my log site:
http://home.comcast.net/~wcouv/
Hope this helps,
Will
91056
>From: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: RV9 Elevator
>Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 08:34:07 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Chenoweth" <chenoweth@gwi.net>
>
>I'm approaching the point in elevator construction where I have to rivet
>stiffeners to skin and skin to spar. I've managed to avoid having to bend
>the skin much by doing the match drilling and dimpling from the "outside".
>
>Skin bending/lifting to the extent needed to rivet looks very intimidating
>(the flexing that goes on at the cut-outs for the hinges is particularly
>scary).
>
>Those who've built the nine probably have noticed the inconsistency between
>the instructions ("rivet stiffeners to top of skin, rivet skin to top of
>spar, rivet stiffeners to bottom of skin") and the photo in the back where
>someone is riveting the spar with all the stiffeners already in place.
>
>So I'm looking for help with the proper sequence of events, with techniques
>for safely "lifting" the skin enough to access the area near its leading
>edge, and with ideas on riveting stiffeners and spar to skin. I will have
>a helper when I do this. Also I'm curious about the technique taught in
>those week-long empennage classes.
>
>I have the Orndorff video. Perhaps that describes the best approach?
>Thanks for the help.
>Bill
>Albion, Maine
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Swirl Scratches in Plexi |
--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
Micro-mesh requires time but if done properly you will get great results.
The trick is using the right grit and keeping it wet. If you let it get the
least bit dry, that is why most people take longer than it really requires.
It's a feel thing that just takes practice.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Swirl Scratches in Plexi
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>> >
>> Scratches can be deeper than they appear! Micro-mesh is the
>> way to go
>> ..... more expensive but less labor intensive. Here there is no
>> substitute for the strong-arm method. You just can't hurry it.
>
>
> I used Micro Mesh on some windscreen scratches, probably put in about 12
> hours using the system before I gave up. I don't doubt that a good
> outcome
> was possible, it just was taking an unreasonable amount of time and
> effort.
> Then, I got a Scratch-Off kit. Piece of cake, whole thing fixed up in an
> hour or less. The foam pads for use on a drill are the only way to go.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 569 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: RV9 Elevator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Turbo Tom" <turbotom@mindspring.com>
I will have a helper when I do this. Also I'm curious about the technique
taught in those week-long empennage classes.
>
As a veteran of one of those classes, I guess it is my turn to chime in.
Bill, I've got two words for you; back riveting.
It will take two people and a few specialized tools; a back riveting plate,
and we used a made-for-the-task back riveting rivet-set.
After fitting all the stiffeners and dimpling everything, flush rivets are
placed in the skin and rivet tape is used to hold them in place. You can do
one whole side at a time. The outside of the skin is placed on the steel
plate [the tape holds the rivets in]. Each stiffener is placed over the
rivet shanks that are protruding up through the skin. Then, one man holds
the skin open [by "peeling back the open end] and hold the skin against the
plate while the other hammers the shank end of the rivet with the the
back-riveting set. It goes VERY quickly after all the set-up is done.
These are the nicest flush rivets on the airplane. There's a reason folks
go to the trouble of back riveting as many rivets as can be done that way.
When one side is finished, flip the skin over. Rinse and repeat.
Avery Tools has the specialty rivet set. It has a spring loaded collar that
helps get a firm hold on the set and clamps the two pieces together. You
need a rather large piece of steel to back up the work. That might be the
hardest part to obtain. Alexander's of course, had a special table set up
for this operation.
Hope that helps!
TT
RV-8 QB
ATL GA
Message 6
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| Subject: | Has anyone tried PreKote? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Draper <mdraper@nww.com>
I am thinking about trying PreKote instead of the traditional
etch/conversion coating process. Anyone with first hand experience using
this stuff?
From their web site (http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp
<http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp> )
PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment compound that improves
adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free process. By virtually
eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings, acid etches, and
other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and costs up to
40% and achieves superior results.
- Mike Draper
RV-8 QB
Message
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1479" nameGENERATOR>
I am thinking about
trying PreKote instead of the traditional etch/conversion coating
process. Anyone with first hand experience using this
stuff?
<SPAN
class833055415-22012005>
From their web site
(<A
">http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp)
<SPAN
class833055415-22012005>
<FONT
faceVerdana>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment
compound that improves adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free
process. By virtually eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings,
acid etches, and other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and
costs up to 40% and achieves superior results.
<FONT faceArial
size2>
- Mike
Draper
RV-8
QB
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: RV9 Elevator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 1/22/05 10:21:59 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
turbotom@mindspring.com writes:
You
need a rather large piece of steel to back up the work. That might be the
hardest part to obtain. Alexander's of course, had a special table set up
for this operation.
Hope that helps!
TT
RV-8 QB
ATL GA
I found a nice piece of steel at the local scrap yard. Walked through the
yard until I found what I was looking for, and paid only about 10 cents per
pound. Also found some nice odd bucking bars there too.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying, well it did the last time I tried it.)
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: RV9 Elevator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LarryRobertHelming" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
If you have a auto or truck spring shop in your town, they should have spare
and unneeded pieces of plate steel suitable for this back riveting task.
That is where I got mine. I also picked up a few smaller pieces that I have
found handy for various other things that have come up. The spring shop in
my town had pieces of scrape that weight about 10 pounds and under. The
heavier the better. I just had to buff it up a bit with a scotch brite
wheel. Cost was nothing. YMMV.
Indiana Larry, RV7 TipUp "SunSeeker"
Evansville, Indiana (just north of western Kentucky)
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV9 Elevator
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 1/22/05 10:21:59 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> turbotom@mindspring.com writes:
>
> You
> need a rather large piece of steel to back up the work. That might be
the
> hardest part to obtain. Alexander's of course, had a special table set
up
> for this operation.
>
> Hope that helps!
>
> TT
>
> RV-8 QB
> ATL GA
>
>
> I found a nice piece of steel at the local scrap yard. Walked through
the
> yard until I found what I was looking for, and paid only about 10 cents
per
> pound. Also found some nice odd bucking bars there too.
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying, well it did the last time I tried it.)
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
Hi all - This is a bit off topic but I thought that some advice from you
listers might be a place to start. I'm considering flying my O-360/CS RV-6
from Seattle to a seminar in Scottsdale, AZ in mid-march. Flight would be
VFR with GPS as primary nav source and VOR as backup (plus sectionals and Mk
1 eyeball, of course). The AOPA Flight Planner calculates the shortest
Victor airway route as being though Boise, down over Salt Lake, then
essentially south to the Phoenix area, about 7 hrs or so en route at a
planned average of 160 KTAS. Lots of big rocky areas and high desert, and
empty spaces. A route down the coast to Southern Cal and then hanging a
hard left over the mountains looks to be a bit longer but might provide
better options for diverting to alternates and/or forced landing areas - but
still some big rocky areas to go over.
I would appreciate any suggestions (reply off list) as to best routes for
this flight, things to watch out for, and whether I can realistically expect
cooperative weather over this distance at that time of year. Also, if
there are other forums (fora?) that would be better suited to these kinds of
inquiries, I would appreciate that info too. TIA! (do not archive)
John Wiegenstein
Hansville, WA
RV-6 N727JW
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: John Wiegenstein
Subject: RV-List: Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight
Personally, I prefer the big rocky areas & high deserts. I'd definitely want to
include some of Lake Powell (Page,Arizona KPGA) and possibly Monument Valley
which is just west of the Utah/Arizona border. Page airport has nice modern facilities
surrounded by fantastic red rock scenery. At Page, you'll also be next
door to the boundaries of the Grand Canyon. Sedona, Arizona is also a great
place to at least fly over or visit for what looks like an aircraft carrier
type landing. There is always freeway below, and numerous small airports along
the route. The March weather could range from sunny skies to blizzards. Will
just have to watch the forecast on that one, although southern Utah & Arizona
usually remain clear with excellent visibility that time of year. Salt Lake
to Seattle is the variable.
The RV6 will have no problem whatsoever with any mountainous elevations. It can
fly over them all on the route, and density altitude will be no problem. For
the record, I'm familiar with Boise to Salt Lake, to Phoenix. Haven't been airborne
northwest to Seattle.
L.Adamson KLSC
listers might be a place to start. I'm considering flying my O-360/CS RV-6
from Seattle to a seminar in Scottsdale, AZ in mid-march. Flight would be
VFR with GPS as primary nav source and VOR as backup (plus sectionals and Mk
1 eyeball, of course). The AOPA Flight Planner calculates the shortest
Victor airway route as being though Boise, down over Salt Lake, then
essentially south to the Phoenix area, about 7 hrs or so en route at a
planned average of 160 KTAS. Lots of big rocky areas and high desert, and
empty spaces. A route down the coast to Southern Cal and then hanging a
hard left over the mountains looks to be a bit longer but might provide
better options for diverting to alternates and/or forced landing areas - but
still some big rocky areas to go over.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
John....I have flown route from N Idaho down across Boise, SLC, Mesa
(Phoenix). Not bad at all. There are some quiet places all right, but its
a nice flight....and very little in the way of mountains once you are
through the Cascades.
tony marshall
rv6
polson, mt
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Wiegenstein" <n727jw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
Subject: RV-List: Need Advice on Seatle to Scottsdale Flight
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Wiegenstein"
> <n727jw@hellerwiegenstein.com>
>
> Hi all - This is a bit off topic but I thought that some advice from you
> listers might be a place to start. I'm considering flying my O-360/CS
> RV-6
> from Seattle to a seminar in Scottsdale, AZ in mid-march. Flight would
> be
> VFR with GPS as primary nav source and VOR as backup (plus sectionals and
> Mk
> 1 eyeball, of course). The AOPA Flight Planner calculates the shortest
> Victor airway route as being though Boise, down over Salt Lake, then
> essentially south to the Phoenix area, about 7 hrs or so en route at a
> planned average of 160 KTAS. Lots of big rocky areas and high desert,
> and
> empty spaces. A route down the coast to Southern Cal and then hanging a
> hard left over the mountains looks to be a bit longer but might provide
> better options for diverting to alternates and/or forced landing areas -
> but
> still some big rocky areas to go over.
>
> I would appreciate any suggestions (reply off list) as to best routes for
> this flight, things to watch out for, and whether I can realistically
> expect
> cooperative weather over this distance at that time of year. Also, if
> there are other forums (fora?) that would be better suited to these kinds
> of
> inquiries, I would appreciate that info too. TIA! (do not archive)
>
> John Wiegenstein
> Hansville, WA
> RV-6 N727JW
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Has anyone tried PreKote? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Yes.
I have been using it only our RV 10 project. It seems to be working fine
when used according to instructions.
Most of the time I have been following the two application process, however
much hunch is that that may be overkill and intended for applications where
an airplane is being repainted after stripping and or has some corrosion. I
tried to get a hold of the company for and modifications to the process when
using new material but was unable to get an answer. It also took awhile to
get them to agree to ship the small 5 gallon container. I think they are
used to selling to large operations (DOD) and probably in 55 gallon drums.
I was also careful to conserve the material best I could due to the expense.
I'd do it again, the thing I like best is that it is non-toxic and the paint
seems to stick just as well as with the conventional etch/alodine process.
Good luck.
Dick Sipp
RV10 #65
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Draper" <mdraper@nww.com>
Subject: RV-List: Has anyone tried PreKote?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mike Draper <mdraper@nww.com>
>
> I am thinking about trying PreKote instead of the traditional
> etch/conversion coating process. Anyone with first hand experience
> using
> this stuff?
>
> From their web site (http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp
> <http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp> )
>
> PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment compound that improves
> adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free process. By virtually
> eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings, acid etches, and
> other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and costs up to
> 40% and achieves superior results.
> - Mike Draper
> RV-8 QB
>
>
> Message
>
> <META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1479" nameGENERATOR>
>
> I am thinking about
> trying PreKote instead of the traditional etch/conversion coating
> process. Anyone with first hand experience using this
> stuff?
> <SPAN
> class833055415-22012005>
> From their web site
> (<A
> ">http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp)
> <SPAN
> class833055415-22012005>
> <FONT
> faceVerdana>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment
> compound that improves adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe
> hazard-free
> process. By virtually eliminating the need for chromate conversion
> coatings,
> acid etches, and other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation
> time and
> costs up to 40% and achieves superior results.
>
>
> <FONT faceArial
> size2>
> - Mike
> Draper
> RV-8
> QB
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | When to drill my elevator control horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
I am putting the finishing touches on my empennage kit for my 9A and have a question
about when to drill the elevator control horns for the center bearing on
the horizontal stabilizer. I have looked and looked in the manual and can't find
it in the empennage instructions or in the empennage attachment to the fuselage
instructions.
Does this get done much later in the assemmbly process or did Van's want me to
figure this one out on my own? Also, any tips out there on how best to do this
and get it perfect? Help is, as always, very appreciated!
Will
http://home.comcast.net/~wcouv/
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Visit to Kissimmee, FL |
--> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
Getting a car?? If so come on over to the Tampa area to Flight Crafters
(on the East side of Tampa). There is a RV9 A and two RV7 A under
construction. Plus several in the area The people at flight Crafters are
real nice.
Jim Nelson
RV9 A QB
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Has anyone tried PreKote? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Hi Mike,
It's nice to hear that Richard Sipp is having good results with PreKote.
Of course Richard isn't flying yet. I have no first hand experience with it
myself. Last January, someone asked this same question on the OLD RV8 list.
List member Jerry Esquenazi posted the following reply. Jerry is a Major in
the USAF. He is based in Texas (Randolf I think) He checked with the
maintenance crew chiefs on base. Read his comments below.
From: "Jerry Esquenazi"
<<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/post?postID=yqSbOY-XljiOfaus-BJOYTNhkRbLUEy3aQP5DVbtL3MPCBpEVoULIcbk9YQCbGEO09rjgWQ>jlintx@g...>
Subject: Prekote update
I spoke with the chief of the corrosion shop here on base. When I asked
him about Prekote, he chuckled. Not a good sign. This man is very familiar
with Prekote. He has been directly involved with it's use and has given
briefings concerning it's use and performance. In a nutshell, he said the
he would give his right arm if he could get rid of Prekote and go back to
etch/Alodine! He said they have had paint peeling within 4 months of
application. This surprised me... He said the application of Prekote is
actually more labor intensive because Prekote is applied in 3 steps v.s.
the 2 steps of the etch/alodine.
This is something the previous articles said was an improvement over the
Alodine process. He also said the Prekote application manual requires
special water (distilled or de-ionized or something like
that)for the rinsing process. It sounds like the articles were a bunch of
propaganda. It's use in the AF is being mandated in the tech orders. I'm
going to call some of the other bases to see if
they had similar results. BTW, he invited me to come over to the shop the
next they prep a T-38 so I can see the process myself. I'll keep you guys
posted.
Jerry
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Draper <mdraper@nww.com>
>
>I am thinking about trying PreKote instead of the traditional
>etch/conversion coating process. Anyone with first hand experience using
>this stuff?
>
> From their web site (http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp
><http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp> )
>
>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment compound that improves
>adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free process. By virtually
>eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings, acid etches, and
>other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and costs up to
>40% and achieves superior results.
>- Mike Draper
>RV-8 QB
>
>
>Message
>
><META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1479" nameGENERATOR>
>
>I am thinking about
>trying PreKote instead of the traditional etch/conversion coating
>process. Anyone with first hand experience using this
>stuff?
><SPAN
>class833055415-22012005>
> From their web site
>(<A
>">http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp)
><SPAN
>class833055415-22012005>
><FONT
>faceVerdana>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment
>compound that improves adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free
>process. By virtually eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings,
>acid etches, and other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation
>time and
>costs up to 40% and achieves superior results.
>
>
><FONT faceArial
>size2>
>- Mike
>Draper
>RV-8
>QB
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Need Advice on Seattle to Scottsdale Flight |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Olson <lolson@doitnow.com>
John,
I've made this trek several times:
Salem, OR (SLE) --> (2 1/2 hrs)
Yerington, NV (O43) --> (3 hrs)
Dear Valley, AZ (DVT)
Scottsdale (SDL) is only a couple of miles east of DVT.
Probably about the same from O43.
Yerington has cheap self-serve fuel and a restaurant.
I have only gone as far as Salem though.
2-1/2 to 3 hr legs are about it for me. This is the
fastest route. Some scenery. You got Crate Lake on the way.
If you get here you must see Sedona and the red rocks.
Scud run down Oak Creek Canyon. Let me know, we'll put
together a group of RV's and go. Weather should be GREAT.
Larry Olson
RV6 DVT
Flying
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Brass/Copper bus bar |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
A search of the local hardware stores only netted .025 copper to connect my
battery contactor and starter contactor. However, I found some .062 brass.
As a total "non electrical" guy, what is the conductive/heat difference
between brass and copper? Is brass acceptable in this application (or
any)...................if not, don't shame me....................as
mechanical as I am I still only understand electricity to point of turning
on the switch...............................
I am having fun with wiring though.
Thanks,
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com
do not archive
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Airport Directory |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Anyone figured out how to convert the AOPA directory for Palm into Ipaq
format? Or, is it fundamentally incompatible?
Thanks,
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours
Maple Grove, MN
do not archive
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
<http://www.home.earthlink.net/>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Has anyone tried PreKote? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
Just to clarify, I am using prekote on interior surfaces only, under a two
part epoxy primer. I will leave the exterior process to the paint shop.
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charlie Kuss" <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Has anyone tried PreKote?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Hi Mike,
> It's nice to hear that Richard Sipp is having good results with PreKote.
> Of course Richard isn't flying yet. I have no first hand experience with
> it
> myself. Last January, someone asked this same question on the OLD RV8
> list.
> List member Jerry Esquenazi posted the following reply. Jerry is a Major
> in
> the USAF. He is based in Texas (Randolf I think) He checked with the
> maintenance crew chiefs on base. Read his comments below.
>
> From: "Jerry Esquenazi"
> <<http://groups.yahoo.com/group/rv8list/post?postID=yqSbOY-XljiOfaus-BJOYTNhkRbLUEy3aQP5DVbtL3MPCBpEVoULIcbk9YQCbGEO09rjgWQ>jlintx@g...>
>
> Date: Sun Jan 25, 2004 10:14 am
> Subject: Prekote update
>
> I spoke with the chief of the corrosion shop here on base. When I asked
> him about Prekote, he chuckled. Not a good sign. This man is very familiar
> with Prekote. He has been directly involved with it's use and has given
> briefings concerning it's use and performance. In a nutshell, he said the
> he would give his right arm if he could get rid of Prekote and go back to
> etch/Alodine! He said they have had paint peeling within 4 months of
> application. This surprised me... He said the application of Prekote is
> actually more labor intensive because Prekote is applied in 3 steps v.s.
> the 2 steps of the etch/alodine.
> This is something the previous articles said was an improvement over the
> Alodine process. He also said the Prekote application manual requires
> special water (distilled or de-ionized or something like
> that)for the rinsing process. It sounds like the articles were a bunch of
> propaganda. It's use in the AF is being mandated in the tech orders. I'm
> going to call some of the other bases to see if
> they had similar results. BTW, he invited me to come over to the shop the
> next they prep a T-38 so I can see the process myself. I'll keep you guys
> posted.
> Jerry
>
>
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Draper <mdraper@nww.com>
>>
>>I am thinking about trying PreKote instead of the traditional
>>etch/conversion coating process. Anyone with first hand experience
>>using
>>this stuff?
>>
>> From their web site
>> (http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp
>><http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp> )
>>
>>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment compound that improves
>>adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe hazard-free process. By virtually
>>eliminating the need for chromate conversion coatings, acid etches, and
>>other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation time and costs up to
>>40% and achieves superior results.
>>- Mike Draper
>>RV-8 QB
>>
>>
>>Message
>>
>><META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1479" nameGENERATOR>
>>
>>I am thinking about
>>trying PreKote instead of the traditional etch/conversion coating
>>process. Anyone with first hand experience using this
>>stuff?
>><SPAN
>>class833055415-22012005>
>> From their web site
>>(<A
>>">http://www.terravendi.com/PreKote/prekote-main-en.asp)
>><SPAN
>>class833055415-22012005>
>><FONT
>>faceVerdana>PreKote(tm) is a non-chromate surface pretreatment
>>compound that improves adhesion and reduces corrosion in a safe
>>hazard-free
>>process. By virtually eliminating the need for chromate conversion
>>coatings,
>>acid etches, and other toxic processes, PreKote cuts paint preparation
>>time and
>>costs up to 40% and achieves superior results.
>>
>>
>><FONT faceArial
>>size2>
>>- Mike
>>Draper
>>RV-8
>>QB
>>
>>
>
>
Message 20
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
Oh how I hate tests, I never do well on them
Gary
Do not archive
Jim Jewell wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>Do not archive Test
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | When to drill my elevator control horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Hi Will,
With out 8A we drilled the horn toward the end of the project after
installing the HS. Not sure about the 9A.
Good Building,
Chuck Rowbotham
>From: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: When to drill my elevator control horns?
>Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 17:23:14 -0500
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: When to drill my elevator control horns? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard E. Tasker" <retasker@optonline.net>
Same for the 9A.
Dick Tasker
Charles Rowbotham wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi Will,
>
>With out 8A we drilled the horn toward the end of the project after
>installing the HS. Not sure about the 9A.
>
>Good Building,
>
>Chuck Rowbotham
>
>
>
>>From: "William Couvillon" <wcouv@hotmail.com>
>>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>>Subject: RV-List: When to drill my elevator control horns?
>>Date: Sat, 22 Jan 2005 17:23:14 -0500
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: Airport Directory |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Alex Peterson wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>Anyone figured out how to convert the AOPA directory for Palm into Ipaq
>format?
>
The data is in a database ..... and the data can be read with a program
running on each particular computer. The Anywhere Map that I have runs
on the iPAQ and displays the AOPA database. Once you know the field
names and the field length, a program can be written to display the data.
> Or, is it fundamentally incompatible?
>
Data is data. Only the program to display the data would be different
for different processors ..... because the commands the processor
understands are different.
Linn
do not archive
>
>Thanks,
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6-A 569 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
>do not archive
>
>http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
><http://www.home.earthlink.net/>
>
>
>
>
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