Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:03 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle)
2. 04:12 AM - Headset/mic hookup. (Dana Overall)
3. 04:40 AM - Re: Headset/mic hookup. (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
4. 05:17 AM - Re: Landing Lights (alan@reichertech.com)
5. 06:08 AM - Re: Why the Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s...? (Kelly Patterson)
6. 06:23 AM - Landing Lights (Bryan Jones)
7. 06:44 AM - Re: castle nut - bolt line-up (DAVID REEL)
8. 06:47 AM - Re: castle nut - bolt line-up (Richard Sipp)
9. 07:16 AM - Re: castle nut - bolt line-up (BPA)
10. 07:43 AM - Texas airparks (Charles Heathco)
11. 08:02 AM - lower voltage lightspeed ignition (Dave Mader)
12. 08:22 AM - Re: lower voltage lightspeed ignition (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
13. 08:28 AM - Re: lower voltage lightspeed ignition (Scott Bilinski)
14. 08:41 AM - Update on Cleaveland Static Ports (Danny Smith)
15. 08:42 AM - Re: castle nut - bolt line-up (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
16. 08:50 AM - Re: Texas airparks (Bryan Jones)
17. 09:17 AM - Re: Landing Lights ()
18. 09:17 AM - Re: Headset/mic hookup. (Dan Checkoway)
19. 09:23 AM - Re: Re: Why the Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s...? (Dan Checkoway)
20. 10:00 AM - Re: Landing Lights (Jeff Dowling)
21. 10:21 AM - single alternator and a small backup battery... (Bill VonDane)
22. 10:29 AM - Re: castle nut - bolt line-up (Jerry2DT@aol.com)
23. 11:29 AM - Re: Headset/mic hookup. (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
24. 01:26 PM - Re: single alternator and a small backup battery... (Terry Watson)
25. 02:08 PM - Re: single alternator and a small backup battery... (Bill VonDane)
26. 03:03 PM - engine hic-up (RVer273sb@aol.com)
27. 03:28 PM - Re: engine hic-up (Scott Bilinski)
28. 03:44 PM - Re: Landing Lights (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
29. 03:50 PM - Re: engine hic-up (Dan Checkoway)
30. 06:29 PM - Re: Landing Lights (Ernie & Margo)
31. 07:45 PM - Re: castle nut - bolt line-up (sarg314)
32. 08:37 PM - Whirl Wind prop fit (N67BT@aol.com)
33. 10:33 PM - Wig Wag (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
34. 10:33 PM - Re: Landing Lights (randall)
35. 10:38 PM - Re: Van's deluxe tailwheel spring set (randall)
36. 11:39 PM - Re: Wig Wag (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Lister,
Please read over the RV-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RVSouthEast-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RVSouthEast-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RVSouthEast-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RVSouthEast-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RVSouthEast-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
- THINK carefully before you write. Ask yourself if your post will be
relevant to everyone. If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
- Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
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easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
web page or FAQ first.
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can not be overstated!
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- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
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- Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
polite and respectful. Don't make snide comments, personally attack
other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
-------
[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
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| Subject: | Headset/mic hookup. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Dummy questions here............"Danger Will Robinson"!!
Getting started wiring up my headset/mic jacks and have the following:
Pilot mic
Blue/white------pilot PTT
Orange/white--------pilot mic audio
White.......Ground
First question, the "small" shaft is the mic.....isn't it? Now to shift
gears, on the jacks (that mount in the airplane) themselves, the center is
the ground, right? Moving to the two spring loaded connecters that touch
the shaft, one is longer than the other. Which is the PTT and which is the
audo. Man, that was hard to explain:-)
Now the Pilot audio
Blue/white-------pilot audio left
Orange/white-------pilot audio right
Once again, long connecter, short connecter.....................which is
left and which is right (I know, it won't matter but since I'm setting it up
from scratch, I might as well do it correct:-).
I can see the 430 is receiving "stuff", just can't hear it until I wiring
these orange, green, blue jobby doos up!!
Thanks gang,
Remember, February 26th., i39...............working on door prizes.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 3
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| Subject: | Headset/mic hookup. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Dana,
Jack wiring picture here:
http://www.mstewart.net/deletesoon/jacks.gif
Will show you mic and headset with colors.
Enjoy,
Mike
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: [[SPAM]] RV-List: Headset/mic hookup.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Dummy questions here............"Danger Will Robinson"!!
Getting started wiring up my headset/mic jacks and have the following:
Pilot mic
Blue/white------pilot PTT
Orange/white--------pilot mic audio
White.......Ground
First question, the "small" shaft is the mic.....isn't it? Now to shift
gears, on the jacks (that mount in the airplane) themselves, the center
is
the ground, right? Moving to the two spring loaded connecters that
touch
the shaft, one is longer than the other. Which is the PTT and which is
the
audo. Man, that was hard to explain:-)
Now the Pilot audio
Blue/white-------pilot audio left
Orange/white-------pilot audio right
Once again, long connecter, short connecter.....................which is
left and which is right (I know, it won't matter but since I'm setting
it up
from scratch, I might as well do it correct:-).
I can see the 430 is receiving "stuff", just can't hear it until I
wiring
these orange, green, blue jobby doos up!!
Thanks gang,
Remember, February 26th., i39...............working on door prizes.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: alan@reichertech.com
Bryan,
What configuration are you using for this? I.E., are they all 50- watt
lamps? What flood configurations are the lamps?
--
Alan Reichert
Priv, Inst, SEL
RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
Tail Kit Inventoried...
do not archive
>
> Time: 10:50:25 AM PST US
> From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Landing Lights
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> I bought Halogen lamps off the Internet (4 each MR16 with front glass,
> http://www.1000bulbs.com/category.php?category=391). Made an adjustable
> mount out of scrap aluminum, springs and some fastners. Used Lexan from
> Home Depot formed over a plug for the LE covers. Now have 200-watts of
> light . Inboard 2 lights facing ahead, outboard 2 lights facing inward
> and
> down. All cost me about $75-80 as I recall. Can land on an unlit strip
> should I have to. My flying buddies say I'm lit up like an airliner.
>
<...>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Why the Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s...? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kelly Patterson" <kbob@cox.net>
Let's see if this makes sense...
If we try to pull the channel as hard as we can.where would it break? You
have to pull it to find out, or calculate it based on the materials.
If we pull it, it would probably not all pop at once, but instead "unzip"
along some rivets. The 2 or 3 rivets that hold the attach angle to the
bulkhead (and the ribs behind it) would be the first *POP!*. The trick is
to get all the parts to *POP* at the same time.
To stop those 2 or 3 rivets from being pulled apart Van's added 2 rows of
rivets (or one row of screws) through the attach angle, the spacer, and the
skin. Now when you pull it everything should break (skin tears, rivets
shear, whatever...) at the same time.
With the old design the dorsal rib does not come into play since it doesn't
really want to *POP* in our example. That triangle skin double section
(just behind the bulkhead) is what Van's uses to transfer the load to the
rear skin, not the dorsal rib. This rib is really to prevent bending or
buckling of the rear skin, but does contribute to spreading the load.
BTW Dan - your work reeks of engineering craftsmanship, both online and in
the air. We all Love what you have contributed to the RV community.
Kelly Patterson
RV-6A finishing
(when I get done with my week-long Engineering meeting.)
PHX, AZ
> There is a vertical rib attachment at the bulkhead backside. There is
> a horizontal angle attachment at the bulkhead front side. They
> connect in what looks like a plus sign, and have maybe 2 or 3 rivets
> in common and
they
> are in tension, not shear (which is what rivets do best).
Yeah, there's the vertical rib, but then there's also the horizontal rib
that runs longitudinally (dorsally?) along the top skin. That horizontal
rib rivets directly to the bulkhead and the channel attach angle can
translate its load directly to it.
I'm still at a loss for understanding why that rib doesn't already serve the
same purpose that the SB serves.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I chose some of the more narrow beam models; ~20 degree pattern. There are
several patterns to choose from. Also, there are different power ratings
available - 15, 30... 50 watts. I went for the largest I saw available in
that size. With my avionics, lighting, etc. the 35 amp Vans's alternator
will just keep up with the load at night. One of these days, I'd like to
install the larger Suzuki alternator. Just having too much fun flying these
days. maybe at the next annual.
Also, I got the closed or protected bulbs with glass over the front of the
reflector since I know water gets into that area of the wing on occasion. I
thought the covered buld might be a little better and worth the minimal
additional cost.
Bryan
>What configuration are you using for this? I.E., are they all 50- watt
>lamps? What flood configurations are the lamps?
>
>--
>Alan Reichert
>Priv, Inst, SEL
>RV-8 N927AR (reserved)
>Tail Kit Inventoried...
>
>do not archive
>
> >
> > Time: 10:50:25 AM PST US
> > From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Landing Lights
> >
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
> >
> > I bought Halogen lamps off the Internet (4 each MR16 with front glass,
> > http://www.1000bulbs.com/category.php?category=391). Made an adjustable
> > mount out of scrap aluminum, springs and some fastners. Used Lexan from
> > Home Depot formed over a plug for the LE covers. Now have 200-watts of
> > light . Inboard 2 lights facing ahead, outboard 2 lights facing inward
> > and
> > down. All cost me about $75-80 as I recall. Can land on an unlit strip
> > should I have to. My flying buddies say I'm lit up like an airliner.
> >
><...>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
Glue a washer to a piece of wood. Cyanoacralate worked for me. Hold the washer
to a disk sander using the wood as a handle. Don't sand for too long or the
heat buildup will melt the glue. When you get the thickness you want to make
your castle nut line up with the bolt hole at the right torque, prime the sanded
side of the washer where you removed the cadmium plating. Somewhat tedious,
but it sounds like you want perfection. I used this method to make washer
wedges for bolt holes that weren't perpendicular to the metal.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
What about filling or grinding off a small portion of the mount tube itself
to make it slightly shorter?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
> engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get the
> hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
> still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts. I
> got some AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
> van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and then
> increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines up. That only
> worked for 1 bolt.
>
> Seems like the only 2 choices are
> 1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
> 2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
>
> Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | castle nut - bolt line-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
Use a flat piece of glass for a good smooth surface and lap the washer
using 400 grit wet or dry, works great!
Allen
BPA, Inc.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard Sipp
Subject: Re: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net>
What about filling or grinding off a small portion of the mount tube
itself
to make it slightly shorter?
Dick Sipp
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
> engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get
the
> hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
> still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts.
I
> got some AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
> van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and then
> increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines up. That only
> worked for 1 bolt.
>
> Seems like the only 2 choices are
> 1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
> 2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
>
> Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
>
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I am considering a move to a Tx airpark and wondered how many RV jocks live in
one, and if so where? Charlie Heathco
Message 11
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| Subject: | lower voltage lightspeed ignition |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
After all the conversation regarding kickbacks, etc. with electronic
ignition
I noticed that Lightspeed is coming out with a module which works down to
a lower voltage....(6.5 volts I believe) They feel this will solve a lot
of
problems with kickback because permanent magnet starter draw so much
current. Won't be available until early spring.
Dave Mader
2nd 6
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: lower voltage lightspeed ignition |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/2/05 11:02:58 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
davemader@bresnan.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
After all the conversation regarding kickbacks, etc. with electronic
ignition
I noticed that Lightspeed is coming out with a module which works down to
a lower voltage....(6.5 volts I believe) They feel this will solve a lot
of
problems with kickback because permanent magnet starter draw so much
current. Won't be available until early spring.
Dave Mader
2nd 6
As a matter of interest, here is another comparison of aircraft vs.
automotive electronics. I had previously posted (a long time ago) that I didn't
think that aircraft radios, etc., have the A+ line input protection (load dump,
reverse battery, for example) that I have seen in automobile electronics.
The electronic ignition systems in GM cars function down to 4.5 volts. This
was not an arbitrary number. Testing showed that cold cranking could cause
the voltage to dip this low, and the ignition system was not allowed to be
the short straw (so to speak).
Dan Hopper (Retired automotive electronics engineer)
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying except that there is still 4 inches of snow on the grass
runway)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: lower voltage lightspeed ignition |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
I was told by LightSpeed that their ign systems will operate down to about
5 volts. Their systems also monitors voltage, if it sees the voltage
getting lower (bad alt) it reduces the amount of amps required proportionally.
At 09:01 AM 2/2/2005 -0700, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
>After all the conversation regarding kickbacks, etc. with electronic
>ignition
>I noticed that Lightspeed is coming out with a module which works down to
>a lower voltage....(6.5 volts I believe) They feel this will solve a lot
>of
>problems with kickback because permanent magnet starter draw so much
>current. Won't be available until early spring.
>Dave Mader
>2nd 6
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 14
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| Subject: | Update on Cleaveland Static Ports |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Danny Smith" <dsmit132@bellsouth.net>
There was a recent string of postings on the Cleaveland static ports causing errors
in airspeed and altitude. I have been doing business with Cleaveland for
a few years now and have found them to be very responsive to any problems so I
sent Mike Lauritsen at Cleaveland an email and asked him to view the Matronics
- RV list and give me some feedback since I have a set of their static ports
in my not flying yet RV-7A.
Mike responded to me and here's his response;
We have been making these ports with the exact dimensions for 12+ years now and
they are on many hundred flying RV's. Half a dozen of these airplanes are or
were on our field, and no one had any trouble. About once per year we get a
call asking about the height. They are designed to sit .010" proud of the skin
surface. To achieve this you must correctly drill and Deburr the holes, and
countersink the ports to fit the skin dimples. They are very critical about
this and if there is a gap between the port and the inside of the skin they may
well come out flush or even recessed. Also builders today are putting much
more paint and primer on than builders of the past. Part of the problem is if
builders decide to prime the inside of the skin, and the port, and the outside
of the skin... Part of this is due to the basecoat, clear coat process adding
thickness, and part I would suspect is due to a higher application rate with
HVLP guns. If you are going to lay the paint on like this you need to either
modify the port, or paint it so that it too is thicker. As long as you clean
the 1/16" hole out it does not care if it is aluminum or enamel on the surface.
We would be happy to modify the ports if that is what your installation requires,
just let us know the dimensions. I just don't want to redesign something
that has been proven to work because of a discussion from builders that don't
have actual numbers that are showing a trend of the ports not working.
If you have any further detailed information of questions let me know.
Thanks,
Mike
If any of you are having problems contact Cleaveland and let them help resolve
it. They are great folks and it's a shame to just complain and not give them a
chance to get involved.
Danny Smith
RV-7A
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Tom,
The Standard Aircraft Handbook states that it is OK to over-torque these
nuts to get the cotter pin in. They are not highly stressed engine bolts. The
torque specs are so conservative, that you would naturally over-torque them
anyway if you didn't use a torque wrench. 16 lb-ft on a 3/8 bolt is only a
little over finger tight. 25 wouldn't hurt anything. Just my opinion -- OK
kill me!
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
In a message dated 2/2/05 8:48:03 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get the
hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts. I
got some AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and then
increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines up. That only
worked for 1 bolt.
Seems like the only 2 choices are
1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Keep my plane at a small one about 15 miles south of Houston called Wolfe
Airpark (Manvel). Very informal atmosphere, remote and inexpensive but
growing somewhat. My folks live (and I grew up) at Pecan Plantation, about
40 miles SW of Ft Worth in Granbury. Over the last 10 yrs or so, PP has
grown into one of the premier airport communites in the country, let alone
the state with quite a few planes on the field (and relatively high property
values to match).
Bryan
>I am considering a move to a Tx airpark and wondered how many RV jocks live
>in one, and if so where? Charlie Heathco
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
>"Dean" <dvanwinkle@royell.net> wrote:
>I don't personally contemplate going with the WigWag setup but instead With the
3 light >strobes. I just prefer to control the 2 landing lights individually.
I see nothing wrong with your >approach as long as it is wired and fused correctly.
If one of your lights fails, the other one >should still work.
If you already have two lights on the wing, why not use a wigwag? Why cant you
have a wigwag and also still have individual control of the landing lights? I
am not a human factors engineer and can't explain it, but my calibrated Mark
VII eye-balls say wigwags are easily seen and more effective than anything else
during daytime.
Strobes in the daytime are of very little use, in my opinion. Landing lights on
steady have very little visual affect in the day, but more than strobes. There
is something about the alternating flash of landing lights that makes them much
more effective, day or night. The likely direction of a mid-air threat is
from the front, where the landing lights are focused. Being visible to avoid a
mid air is what I am talking about.
As a universal procedure airlines use strobes and landing lights, day or night,
on approach. From the end of the runway it is not always easy to see airliners
landing during the day, especially in hazy conditions. These are big airplane
coming right at you, and you know where to look. Strobes are almost invisible,
and compared to alternating landing light pulses, steady landing lights have
little visual affect. Southwest Airlines is one of few airline that uses wigwags,
as do some business jets. I can always spot the Southwest wigwag on approach
sooner and much further out. It just stands out.
Many wigwag setups are available, not expensive and easy to install, especially
if you already plan on wing lights. You can wire the wigwag and lights to have
as much control over the individual lights as you want. I highly recommend them
(even for day vfr), because I want to see you first. ;-)
Cheers George
---------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Headset/mic hookup. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
http://images.rvproject.com/images/jack_wiring.jpg
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Headset/mic hookup.
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Dummy questions here............"Danger Will Robinson"!!
>
> Getting started wiring up my headset/mic jacks and have the following:
>
> Pilot mic
> Blue/white------pilot PTT
> Orange/white--------pilot mic audio
> White.......Ground
>
> First question, the "small" shaft is the mic.....isn't it? Now to shift
> gears, on the jacks (that mount in the airplane) themselves, the center is
> the ground, right? Moving to the two spring loaded connecters that touch
> the shaft, one is longer than the other. Which is the PTT and which is
the
> audo. Man, that was hard to explain:-)
>
> Now the Pilot audio
>
> Blue/white-------pilot audio left
> Orange/white-------pilot audio right
>
> Once again, long connecter, short connecter.....................which is
> left and which is right (I know, it won't matter but since I'm setting it
up
> from scratch, I might as well do it correct:-).
>
> I can see the 430 is receiving "stuff", just can't hear it until I wiring
> these orange, green, blue jobby doos up!!
>
> Thanks gang,
>
> Remember, February 26th., i39...............working on door prizes.
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Why the Vans Service Bulletin - TIP UP Canopy 7 and 9s...? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> To stop those 2 or 3 rivets from being pulled apart Van's added 2 rows of
> rivets (or one row of screws) through the attach angle, the spacer, and
the
> skin. Now when you pull it everything should break (skin tears, rivets
> shear, whatever...) at the same time.
That makes perfect sense, but we're talking about compression, not tension.
Or are we? If it's tension, then I *totally* see the value of the SB mod.
I just thought it would be in compression if the plane flipped over. Guess
it could go either way?
Thanks for putting up with me!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I would consider putting a second one in so you dont hit anything at night
when your first one burns out. I've already had one go bad in a 150 hours.
It isnt a big deal to add a second.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
150 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "James H Nelson" <rv9jim@juno.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Landing Lights
> --> RV-List message posted by: James H Nelson <rv9jim@juno.com>
>
> Dave,
> If you are flying from the left seat, then the right wing is the
> best. This is due to the shadows thrown from the light will give you the
> best picture of what is in front of you and its relative size. For
> example, take a flash light at a dark night and shine it directly from
> your eyes to an area in front of you. then move the light off to the
> right by extending your right arm at full length and look at the same
> area. You will see the difference immediately. Just MHO.
>
> Jim
> N599RV (reserved)
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | single alternator and a small backup battery... |
vansairforce <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am looking to install a small backup battery in my RV to support a few
systems should my elec system take a crap...
Did anyone do this kind of thing on their RV? Do you have a wiring diagram
of how you did it?
Thanks...
-Bill
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry2DT@aol.com
Take a file and remove metal from mount under bolt until you can get the
proper torque. Shouldn't take more than a thou or two. Worked on my -6a.
Jerry Cochran
From: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall (not the
engine yet). The problem is that for most of the bolts I can't get the
hole for the cotter pin to line up with the slot in the castle nut and
still stay within the 160 - 190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts. I
got some AN960-616L (1/32" thick) washers to no avail. Tom Green at
van's told me to start at the low end of the torque range and then
increase it slowly 10 in-lbs at a time until it lines up. That only
worked for 1 bolt.
Seems like the only 2 choices are
1- over torque the bolt till it lines up, or
2- get some odd thickness washer somehow.
Any suggestions? I *really* don't want to mistreat these bolts.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A.
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Headset/mic hookup. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Dana,
I don't know if anyone answered this. Yes, the small one is the mic.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (In flying condition, but frozen to the ground!)
First question, the "small" shaft is the mic.....isn't it?
Thanks gang,
Remember, February 26th., i39...............working on door prizes.
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | single alternator and a small backup battery... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bill,
I think I remember that you are installing a BMA lite G3. Blue Mountain has
a wiring diagram on their website - possibly under EFIS/one support - that
shows how they suggest adding a small back-up battery for the EFIS/one,
since cranking the engine can drop the voltage enough to re-boot the cpu
which is interpreting all the engine instruments.
In my mind a better source is to look at Bob Nuckoll's Aeroelectric book or
website, or the Matronics aeroelectric list archives. Bob has published and
argued several ways of using two batteries, two alternators, two of each or
I think one of each plus an auxiliary battery. I have worked out a dual
battery arrangement for my EFIS/one that I think covers the most probable
bad things happening, but since I haven't flown or tested it yet, I wouldn't
recommend you pay too much attention to it.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
vansairforce
Subject: RV-List: single alternator and a small backup battery...
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am looking to install a small backup battery in my RV to support a few
systems should my elec system take a crap...
Did anyone do this kind of thing on their RV? Do you have a wiring diagram
of how you did it?
Thanks...
-Bill
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: single alternator and a small backup battery... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
Yeah, a BM Sport G3...
Yes I have seen this... I'm not too worried about that because I will have
the EFIS on the avionics bus, and I don't have that on when I start
anyway...
I am looking into the theory of your main battery being able to power the
essential buss beyond any fuel load you would have... If this is the case
than I don't really need a backup...
-Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: single alternator and a small backup battery...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Bill,
I think I remember that you are installing a BMA lite G3. Blue Mountain has
a wiring diagram on their website - possibly under EFIS/one support - that
shows how they suggest adding a small back-up battery for the EFIS/one,
since cranking the engine can drop the voltage enough to re-boot the cpu
which is interpreting all the engine instruments.
In my mind a better source is to look at Bob Nuckoll's Aeroelectric book or
website, or the Matronics aeroelectric list archives. Bob has published and
argued several ways of using two batteries, two alternators, two of each or
I think one of each plus an auxiliary battery. I have worked out a dual
battery arrangement for my EFIS/one that I think covers the most probable
bad things happening, but since I haven't flown or tested it yet, I wouldn't
recommend you pay too much attention to it.
Terry
RV-8A finishing
Seattle
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill VonDane
vansairforce
Subject: RV-List: single alternator and a small backup battery...
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill VonDane <bill@vondane.com>
I am looking to install a small backup battery in my RV to support a few
systems should my elec system take a crap...
Did anyone do this kind of thing on their RV? Do you have a wiring diagram
of how you did it?
Thanks...
-Bill
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
Listers,
Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect ign
and installed a mag. Still does it.
This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
power climb sustained for several minutes.
I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
or fuel pressure.????
Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
Thank you,
Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: engine hic-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Better head on over to the Yahoo Lycoming list. I must say, this is a good one!
At 05:59 PM 2/2/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
>
>Listers,
> Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
> Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
> I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
>elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect ign
>and installed a mag. Still does it.
> This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
> Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
>Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
>do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
>power climb sustained for several minutes.
> I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
> Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
>The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
>more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
>or fuel pressure.????
> Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
>Thank you,
>Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
While on the thread of landing lights -- we were driving home from Chicago
today and left early -- before dawn. I looked up and saw a plane heading into
O'Hare that was blinking both landing lights (left and right wings) on and
off at the same time. It seems like this would be even better than wig-wag as
far as being seen. Also, it would work for those having only one light
(duh!). Has anyone ever done this on an RV?
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Stuck in the snow here for now.)
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: engine hic-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Are you leaning in the climb? Plugs fouling? What do the plugs look like
right after this? Any lead?
Air getting in the fuel somehow? I've heard of small leaks in fuel systems
allowing air in while not allowing fuel out.
You did all that replacement & cylinder overhauling...but did you clean the
injectors? Distribution lines? Flow divider? When was it last overhauled?
Those are the first things that came to my mind, at least. My money is on
air in the fuel.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Scott Bilinski" <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: engine hic-up
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski
<bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
>
> Better head on over to the Yahoo Lycoming list. I must say, this is a good
one!
>
> At 05:59 PM 2/2/2005 -0500, you wrote:
> >--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
> >
> >Listers,
> > Been experiencing what I call a hic-up in my 0-320 lately.
> > Seems like one cylinder one time to me.
> > I changed all spark plugs and it still persists. Removed the right
> >elect/ ign ang installed a magneto, still did it. Pulled the left elect
ign
> >and installed a mag. Still does it.
> > This means different plugs, leads and ign sources?
> > Sticky valves? Pulled all 4 cylinders and had them overhauled.
> >Hic up is still there. Never know when it will do it and it might not
> >do it for an hour or so. I can usually get it to hic-up by doing a full
> >power climb sustained for several minutes.
> > I am running AFP fuel injection and am back to the dual elect ign.
> > Tried two sets of the auto plugs last weekend. No help.
> >The hic-up is never more than one or two hits and seems to never be
> >more than one or two cylinders. No noticeable change in cht or egt
> >or fuel pressure.????
> > Any ideas out there? This is driving me crazy to say the least.
> >Thank you,
> >Stewart RV-4 in Colorado
> >
> >
>
>
> Scott Bilinski
> Eng dept 305
> Phone (858) 657-2536
> Pager (858) 502-5190
>
>
Message 30
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|
| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ernie & Margo" <ernest.kells@sympatico.ca>
I believe that I have the best solution - does everything very well at low
cost. I have two Duckworks (left wing is taxi, right is landing). The
AeroElectric List guru (Bob Nuckell) has on-line a Wig-Wag solution which I
used. It rquires buying three things beside the lights - the Wig-Wag and
two switches (ST700-50 if I remember correctly). The two switches have three
positions: OFF, WIG-WAG and ON. The switches operate the taxi and lights
independently. Both lights will wig-wag ONLY when both switches are set in
the middle position (Wig-Wag). No wig-wagging in any other combination of
settings. I walked through every type of checklist situation - seems
elegant.
BTW: I believe the comment on having two lights on one switch is in error.
One light is not an effective backup for the other. If the fuse goes they
both go south. If one light's element blows you are probably okat. If one
light fails - and causes a short you will still lose both. IMHO
> >I don't personally contemplate going with the WigWag setup but instead
With the 3 light >strobes. I just prefer to control the 2 landing lights
individually. I see nothing wrong with your >approach as long as it is
wired and fused correctly. If one of your lights fails, the other one
>should still work.
>
>
> If you already have two lights on the wing, why not use a wigwag? Why
cant you have a wigwag and also still have individual control of the landing
lights? I am not a human factors engineer and can't explain it, but my
calibrated Mark VII eye-balls say wigwags are easily seen and more effective
than anything else during daytime.
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: castle nut - bolt line-up |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Larry:
That worked. Today I picked up a few more AN6-24 bolts and 6 more
castle nuts. By trial and error I got them all to line up within the
160 - 190 in-lb range.
Larry Bowen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
>
>Try different nuts on each bolt. Each has a unique thread/castles
>alignment. Worked for me....
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: sarg314 [mailto:sarg314@comcast.net]
>>Sent: Tuesday, February 01, 2005 11:13 PM
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: RV-List: castle nut - bolt line-up
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>>
>>I am trying to bolt the engine mount to the RV-6A firewall
>>(not the engine yet). The problem is that for most of the
>>bolts I can't get the hole for the cotter pin to line up with
>>the slot in the castle nut and still stay within the 160 -
>>190 in-lb torque range of the AN6 bolts.
>>
>>
Message 32
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|
| Subject: | Whirl Wind prop fit |
--> RV-List message posted by: N67BT@aol.com
I had fitted my 7A cowl for the Hartzell but finally bought the Whirl Wind
RV200. Before purchase WW said that the fit is the same --- NOT. The spinner
gently rubbed the cowl and there is no adjustment. I'm thinking "hours and
hours of work shot, not to mention the cost of replacing both the top and
bottom cowl halves". I decided to build up the inside of the cowl ring 5/32"
+/- with epoxy and glass and then sanded the front to fit. It's better than
the original Hartzell fit. I made the gap at the top 1/8" and the bottom 3/16"
to account for the eventual engine sag. I'm assumed 1/4" sag (pure guess
work) and ran a computer model to get that 1/16" difference.
There is a photo of the installation at:
http://users.aol.com/n67bt
Bob Trumpfheller
PS, the original was posted on the RV7 list but I thought it might be of
interest to some RV listers as well.
--> RV7-List message posted by: mark manda mark2nite@yahoo.com
< If you get a WW RV200 prop now called Titan, you might
want to keep it in the back of your mind that the
RV-7a engine cowling will need cutting,refitting or
replacing. Either the lower half or the upper half.
I'm off 3/32" at an angle so my "fitted for a
Hartzell" lower cowling is a paper weight and a new
lower $445 cowling is being shipped.
I know another RV-7a builder who also has a lower
cowling available since buying a WWRV200 prop.
Supposedly they(the WWRV 200) bolt right on the
RV-8's.
YMMV. >
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Len/listers:
I have a schematic for this type of flasher, it basically does the same thing as
the wig wag but without all the frills(turn it on and it alternately flashes
your two landing lights, that's all). The design is very simple and uses basically
4 solid state components that I purchased through Digi Key for less than
10 dollars! I didn't design the circuit but the designer is a Lancair builder
who published it in one of the electronic trade magazines. He was more than
happy to answer my question about using 100 watt aviation lights with it instead
of his 50 watt car halogens (it's plenty robust to operate at the higher
currents needed for the aviation lights). Since the schematic is public knowledge
I'm happy to share it with anyone who is interested in rolling their own
wig wag. Just contact me off list and I'll email you a scanned version of the
schematic and the basic circuit description.
Note: you need to have some basic knowledge of reading electronic schematics to
be able to do this, but this is a simple circuit that could even be built on
a radio schack perfboard if you really wanted to save money. Not for HID lights
(thier ballasts don't like being switched on and off that fast and... if you
have these really bright lights chances are you'll be seen, even in the daytime,
if you have them on)!
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Light at the end of the tunnel getting briter.
-----------------------------------------------Original message-------------------------------------
>Lenleg@aol.com wrote:
>RV-List message posted by: Lenleg@aol.com
>Anybody give me the contact info for Bob Haan ... producer of the Wig Wag????
>Thanks !!
>Len Leggette, RV-8A
>Greensboro, NC N910LL
>315 hrs
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Landing Lights |
--> RV-List message posted by: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
> I recently did this too. One side is useful in a tail-low position, the
> other side, tail up. On short final they are both somewhat useful. Only
> tested at dusk so far....
I make a fair number of night landings in my -6 and I'm very glad I have one
in each wing. As others have mentioned, it really helps to have one pointing
up and one down in a tailtragger. BTW these are Duckworks lights.
Also its cool to have a wigwag -- and safer!
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Van's deluxe tailwheel spring set |
--> RV-List message posted by: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
> Has anyone installed one of the so called "deluxe tail wheel springs" that
> Van's is offering? From the picture in the on-line catalog I can't tell
how
> they are installed or how they work.
I have one of the first sets. Installed them on my -6 over a year ago.
They're very nice. I was really glad to get rid of the old screen-door
springs!
Installation is pretty straightforward though not as simple as the screen
door thingies -- you need to cut and drill the SS tab to length, how long
you make it determines how much play you end up with. The feel is stiffer
than the originals but that took about 10 minutes of taxiing to get used to.
Picture on my web site, http://www.edt.com/homewing/rhproject/fairings.html.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Disclaimer: Okay I admit, it's my hangar mate who designed them and sells
them to Vans.... :-}
Message 36
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>Len/listers:
>
>I have a schematic for this type of flasher, it basically does the same thing
as the wig wag but without all the frills(turn it on and it alternately flashes
your two landing lights, that's all). The design is very simple and uses basically
4 solid state components that I purchased through Digi Key for less than
10 dollars! I didn't design the circuit but the designer is a Lancair builder
who published it in one of the electronic trade magazines. He was more than
happy to answer my question about using 100 watt aviation lights with it instead
of his 50 watt car halogens (it's plenty robust to operate at the higher
currents needed for the aviation lights). Since the schematic is public knowledge
I'm happy to share it with anyone who is interested in rolling their own
wig wag. Just contact me off list and I'll email you a scanned version of the
schematic and the basic circuit description.
>
>Note: you need to have some basic knowledge of reading electronic schematics to
be able to do this, but this is a simple circuit that could even be built on
a radio schack perfboard if you really wanted to save money. Not for HID lights
(thier ballasts don't like being switched on and off that fast and... if you
have these really bright lights chances are you'll be seen, even in the daytime,
if you have them on)!
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Light at the end of the tunnel getting briter.
>
>
Dean, I would like a copy of the light flasher if you don't mind..
thanks, Phil......... in Illinois
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