Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - Electrical feeds...was Flaps (Dana Overall)
2. 05:11 AM - Re: Electrical feeds...was Flaps (Mickey Coggins)
3. 05:12 AM - Re: Washers and bolts (linn walters)
4. 05:32 AM - Re: (Charles Rowbotham)
5. 05:46 AM - Re: Flaps (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
6. 05:59 AM - SUBJECT please (Bryan Jones)
7. 06:02 AM - Re: Flaps (Bryan Jones)
8. 06:22 AM - Re: Re: Flaps (Bobby Hester)
9. 06:30 AM - Garmin manuals (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
10. 06:31 AM - Re: Flaps (cgalley)
11. 06:48 AM - Re: Garmin manuals (Larry Bowen)
12. 07:11 AM - Re: Flaps (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
13. 07:17 AM - Re: Garmin manuals (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
14. 07:20 AM - Re: Garmin manuals (Aircraft Technical Book Company)
15. 07:24 AM - Re: Flaps (Sam Buchanan)
16. 07:25 AM - Re: Flaps (Sam Buchanan)
17. 07:29 AM - Re: Confused About Torque Specifications (Dwight Frye)
18. 08:01 AM - Re: Flaps (cgalley)
19. 08:16 AM - Re: Flaps (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
20. 09:27 AM - Re: Flaps (Paul Besing)
21. 09:52 AM - Re: Flaps (Bryan Jones)
22. 10:39 AM - Re: Washers and bolts (Skylor Piper)
23. 11:22 AM - Re: Washers and bolts (Mike Robertson)
24. 12:29 PM - Re: Flaps (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
25. 12:36 PM - Re: (HCRV6@aol.com)
26. 12:39 PM - Re: Flaps (HCRV6@aol.com)
27. 12:44 PM - Re: Flaps (Sam Buchanan)
28. 12:45 PM - Re: Re: Flaps (Bobby Hester)
29. 12:59 PM - Re: Flaps (Sam Buchanan)
30. 03:21 PM - Re: Flaps (LARRY ADAMSON)
31. 04:28 PM - Alternator (Dana Overall)
32. 05:58 PM - Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question (Scott Vanartsdalen)
33. 05:59 PM - Re: Alternator (Ed Anderson)
34. 06:22 PM - Re: Electrical feeds...was Flaps (Ed Holyoke)
35. 06:25 PM - Re: Alternator (William Gill)
36. 06:48 PM - Re: SUBJECT please (Charles Rowbotham)
37. 06:52 PM - Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question (Dan Brown)
38. 07:01 PM - Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question (Ed Holyoke)
39. 08:16 PM - Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question (Mark Grieve)
40. 10:04 PM - Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation ()
41. 10:21 PM - Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question (Scott VanArtsdalen)
42. 10:44 PM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (GMC)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Electrical feeds...was Flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Interesting points about coming off the battery bus, now to again show my
total electrical ignorance.
As my signature line shows, I am using a rotary 13B. In doing so I will
have dual injecters, dual electric fuel pumps and Tracy's electronic engine
control system. I don't have a second mechanical "fire" source or
mechanical fuel pump (oh, man I'm building a death trap!!) Bear with me now.
My battery bus feed comes off the positive terminal of the battery. My
main bus is fed from the switched side of the battery contactor. My
alternator is attached inline using BC inline ANL to that same switched side
of the battery contactor. All of what I have to say is trying to avoid
using two batteries. It has been mentioned to put everything above on the
battery bus. Nah, as a single point failure of the battery post turns me
into a glider.
So I guess here is the uninformed question. If the positive battery post
falls off, rendering my battery bus inop, will the alternator continue to
produce usable power to that switched side (merely in contact with my main
bus feed line, not through the contactor) of the battery contactor, thus
supplying my main bus/essential bus through the diode, with power. If it
does, this provides me with an option other than a second battery.
Big question, will the alternator do what I want it to do without the
positive side of the battery connected? The big reason I ask is I had a
direct short of the generator in my old Bonanza and the battery got switched
offline before the generator did. You can guess what happened with all that
"excess" juice. The avionic shops loved getting all that avionic work!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Electrical feeds...was Flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Dana,
I'd ask over on the aeroelectric list. I'm also building an
electrically dependent engine, but I'll have two batteries,
just in case. Like you, I'm not worried about the battery
itself failing, but some mechanical failure somewhere down
the line. That's why I have two batteries. Here is my diagram,
if you are interested.
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php?story=20041121101637759
Mickey
Dana Overall wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
> Interesting points about coming off the battery bus, now to again show my
> total electrical ignorance.
>
> As my signature line shows, I am using a rotary 13B. In doing so I will
> have dual injecters, dual electric fuel pumps and Tracy's electronic engine
> control system. I don't have a second mechanical "fire" source or
> mechanical fuel pump (oh, man I'm building a death trap!!) Bear with me now.
> My battery bus feed comes off the positive terminal of the battery. My
> main bus is fed from the switched side of the battery contactor. My
> alternator is attached inline using BC inline ANL to that same switched side
> of the battery contactor. All of what I have to say is trying to avoid
> using two batteries. It has been mentioned to put everything above on the
> battery bus. Nah, as a single point failure of the battery post turns me
> into a glider.
>
> So I guess here is the uninformed question. If the positive battery post
> falls off, rendering my battery bus inop, will the alternator continue to
> produce usable power to that switched side (merely in contact with my main
> bus feed line, not through the contactor) of the battery contactor, thus
> supplying my main bus/essential bus through the diode, with power. If it
> does, this provides me with an option other than a second battery.
>
> Big question, will the alternator do what I want it to do without the
> positive side of the battery connected? The big reason I ask is I had a
> direct short of the generator in my old Bonanza and the battery got switched
> offline before the generator did. You can guess what happened with all that
> "excess" juice. The avionic shops loved getting all that avionic work!!
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Washers and bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
John D. Heath wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
>
>TWIMC,
> AC 43.13-1B, paragraph 7-86 says "... Cadmium-plated steel warshers are recommended
for use under boltheads and nuts used on aluminum alloy or magnesium
structures to prevent corrision. ...". That's a pretty good reason too.
>
> John D.
>
But if the bolt and nut is already cad plated ....... why? It's 'Das
Feds' again!!! And it doesn't say 'under both'????
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Hi Mark,
We mounted ours behind the instrument panel (centered) and attached to the
rear of the forward baggage compartment.
Chuck 7 Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 19:30:09 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
>
>Im getting ready to install the brainbox for the PSS AOA system and was
>wondering where everyone has been placing theirs?
>Do not archive.
>Mark Phillips
>RV-6 Finishing
>Williamsville,Illinois
>
>
Message 5
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 2/9/05 12:52:25 AM Central Standard Time,
bo124rs@hotmail.com writes:
> What's everyone else
> done with it??
>>>>
One thought- if it were on your main and for whatever reason it began to
runaway, you could kill the master and continue on with the e-bus. Good reason
to
have trims & autopilots on main as well. You'd normally only use it once in
the pattern when you would get it back back by re-engaging the master
(assuming alternator-out ops.), although doing a no-flap landing would maybe be
a
better option if the batt was really low. Running the flap motor could drop bus
voltage enough to lose stuff ya might need in the pattern, such a your radio,
again depending on battery snort remaining...
Is your main bus full? You might consider moving some very-low draw
component to your e-bus instead.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
OK - my day to be list police. Be courteous and use the subject line.
Please!
Bryan
do not archive
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi Mark,
>
>We mounted ours behind the instrument panel (centered) and attached to the
>rear of the forward baggage compartment.
>
>Chuck 7 Dave Rowbotham
>RV-8A
>
> >From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 19:30:09 -0600
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
> >
> >Im getting ready to install the brainbox for the PSS AOA system and was
> >wondering where everyone has been placing theirs?
> >Do not archive.
> >Mark Phillips
> >RV-6 Finishing
> >Williamsville,Illinois
> >
> >
>
>
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Always hot? Very interesting idea. I can see the benefits. Only thing that
comes to mind is all these spontaneous Ford automobile combustion cases that
have been occurring lately. Any concern about that kind of thing?
Bryan -8
Houston
>
>Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
>sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
>flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
>shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
>have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
>
>This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
>
>Sam Buchanan
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 21:29 (CDT)
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
>
> Dana:
>
> I put mine on the E buss. They will not draw any power while in cruise
> flight and will be available to you on landing. Otherwise, if you really
> want your flaps and have them on the main buss, you will have to switch on
> your master halfway through the pattern.
>
> Granted, an RV will land just fine without flaps, but since there is no
> current draw until you use them, why not have them on the E buss?
>
> Just my very humble opinion.
>
After reading Sam's reply I beleive the best place is on the battery bus. I can
see how you would need to raise and lower the flaps alot before and after shut
down. I think I change mine tonight.
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Mike & Listers,
I'm trying to find an electronic version of the SL10 Installation manual.
Mike's list didn't include it, and I haven't been able to find it on the
Garmin site. Does anyone have a copy?
======================================
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
phone: (860)727-2393
fax: (860)998-9396
email: fred.stucklen@utcfuelcells.com
Message:
#124797
Subject: more Garmin Appolo Manual
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=155468073?KEYS=m
anuals?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=14?SERIAL=06050918430?SHOWBUTTONS=NO> Downloads
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" < mstewart@iss.net
<mailto:mstewart@iss.net> >
Here are some more(added the first few here below) manuals popular found
by JB. You will notice by looking at the file names and using the
scheme, that you can find just about anything you are looking for. Some
file names are not intuitive like GPS165TSODzusRail_PilotsGuide.pdf. Ill
try and work on getting the entire directory of everything possible. But
for now, this is a really good list. Old and new, popular in junk. Its
in there. STC, pilot Guide, Supplemental Flight Manual, Quick Reference
Guide, Pilots Guide, Installation Manual, Training Syllabus, all kinds
of very useful stuff in there. Just think about how many times you have
wanted a manual and could not find it. Especially installation manuals
which they seem to keep tight reign on. I ran a job from the office to
get all of these, yes every one, so Ill keep them somewhere just in
case they disappear. Another fella did that right before they took the
appolo site down. I got a file from him like
sl40_install_560-0956-03a.pdf. I mean how would you ever figure out that
filename? So I hope to have these stashed just in case GArmin gets hit
by a bus.
<http://www.garmin.com/manuals/> http://www.garmin.com/manuals/ these
files below. So if you are
looking for a manual, just search this list (ex. Ctl-f 430) and append
the filename to the url above and you will have it.
Enjoy,
Mike Stewart
MX20_InstallationManual.pdf
SL30Nav_Comm_InstallationManual.pdf
......
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Any wiring direct circumvents the safety aspect of having a master switch.
Shorts can and do happen. Aluminum airplanes do catch fire from such
shorts.
Not much left when that happens.
Why take the chance?
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Dana,
>
> The only thing you have to keep in mind if you put stuff like flaps & fuel
> pump on the e-bus is total *possible* draw of the e-bus. If you wire it
> like Bob Nuckolls recommends, providing the "alternate feed" for the e-bus
> from a fuse on the battery bus, then you have to size that fuse carefully.
>
> If I recall, Bob recommends keeping your e-bus consumers to a total of 5
> amps or less (I may be off). My e-bus feed fuse is 15A. My normal
> continuous load is way less than that, but I gave myself the headroom so
> that if I decide to use bigger consumers on short final (or whatever), the
> circuit wouldn't be overloaded. If that fuse blows, then you gotta flip
the
> master back on and deal with over-consuming or device-by-device reduction
> (too much distraction on short final).
>
> Anyway, I'm sure you're already thinking about this. I just wanted to
give
> a heads-up that if you pile heavier consumers onto the e-bus, give the
feed
> wiring & thus the fuse some headroom.
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Orear" <jorear@new.rr.com>
> >
> > Dana:
> >
> > I put mine on the E buss. They will not draw any power while in cruise
> > flight and will be available to you on landing. Otherwise, if you
really
> > want your flaps and have them on the main buss, you will have to switch
on
> > your master halfway through the pattern.
> >
> > Granted, an RV will land just fine without flaps, but since there is no
> > current draw until you use them, why not have them on the E buss?
> >
> > Just my very humble opinion.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jeff Orear
> > RV6A N782P (reserved)
> > baffles
> > Peshtigo, WI
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Flaps
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
> > >
> > > OK gang, here we go again. I'm wiring up the flaps right now. I am
> using
> > > the 'Lectric Bob technique with battery, main and essential bus. I
was
> > > going to just wire up the flap motor to the main bus and go on but
have
> > > the
> > > room on the essential. I know it is a personnal decision but what
about
> > > pros and cons to just "sticking" it on the essential?? What's
everyone
> > > else
> > > done with it??
> > >
> > >
> > > Dana Overall
> > > Richmond, KY i39
> > > RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> > > Finish kit
> > > 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> > > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> > > http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> > > http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> > > do not archive
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin manuals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Look under "discontinued"
http://www.garmin.com/support/userManual.jsp
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR said:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR"
> <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
>
> Mike & Listers,
>
> I'm trying to find an electronic version of the SL10 Installation
> manual.
> Mike's list didn't include it, and I haven't been able to find it on the
> Garmin site. Does anyone have a copy?
>
> ======================================
> Fred Stucklen
> RV-6A N926RV
> phone: (860)727-2393
> fax: (860)998-9396
> email: fred.stucklen@utcfuelcells.com
>
>
> Message:
>
> #124797
>
> Subject: more Garmin Appolo Manual
> <http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=155468073?KEYS=m
> anuals?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=14?SERIAL=06050918430?SHOWBUTTONS=NO>
> Downloads
>
> Date: Sep 19, 2004
> From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" < mstewart@iss.net
> <mailto:mstewart@iss.net> >
>
>
> Here are some more(added the first few here below) manuals popular found
> by JB. You will notice by looking at the file names and using the
> scheme, that you can find just about anything you are looking for. Some
> file names are not intuitive like GPS165TSODzusRail_PilotsGuide.pdf. Ill
> try and work on getting the entire directory of everything possible. But
> for now, this is a really good list. Old and new, popular in junk. Its
> in there. STC, pilot Guide, Supplemental Flight Manual, Quick Reference
> Guide, Pilots Guide, Installation Manual, Training Syllabus, all kinds
> of very useful stuff in there. Just think about how many times you have
> wanted a manual and could not find it. Especially installation manuals
> which they seem to keep tight reign on. I ran a job from the office to
> get all of these, yes every one, so Ill keep them somewhere just in
> case they disappear. Another fella did that right before they took the
> appolo site down. I got a file from him like
> sl40_install_560-0956-03a.pdf. I mean how would you ever figure out that
> filename? So I hope to have these stashed just in case GArmin gets hit
> by a bus.
>
> <http://www.garmin.com/manuals/> http://www.garmin.com/manuals/ these
> files below. So if you are
> looking for a manual, just search this list (ex. Ctl-f 430) and append
> the filename to the url above and you will have it.
> Enjoy,
> Mike Stewart
>
> MX20_InstallationManual.pdf
> SL30Nav_Comm_InstallationManual.pdf
> ......
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
In a message dated 2/9/2005 7:47:39 A.M. Central Standard Time,
Fiveonepw@aol.com writes:
One thought- if it were on your main and for whatever reason it began to
runaway, you could kill the master and continue on with the e-bus. Good
reason to
have trims & autopilots on main as well.
Why not just pull the circuit breaker?
Doug
RV7
BHM
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Using the logic of the download center I was able to find it here:
http://www.garmin.com/manuals/SL10AudioPanel_InstallationManual.pdf
enjoy.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stucklen,
Frederic W UTPWR
Subject: RV-List: Garmin manuals
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR"
<Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Mike & Listers,
I'm trying to find an electronic version of the SL10 Installation
manual.
Mike's list didn't include it, and I haven't been able to find it on the
Garmin site. Does anyone have a copy?
======================================
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV
phone: (860)727-2393
fax: (860)998-9396
email: fred.stucklen@utcfuelcells.com
Message:
#124797
Subject: more Garmin Appolo Manual
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=155468073?KE
YS=m
anuals?LISTNAME=RV?HITNUMBER=14?SERIAL=06050918430?SHOWBUTTONS=NO>
Downloads
From: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" < mstewart@iss.net
<mailto:mstewart@iss.net> >
Here are some more(added the first few here below) manuals popular found
by JB. You will notice by looking at the file names and using the
scheme, that you can find just about anything you are looking for. Some
file names are not intuitive like GPS165TSODzusRail_PilotsGuide.pdf. Ill
try and work on getting the entire directory of everything possible. But
for now, this is a really good list. Old and new, popular in junk. Its
in there. STC, pilot Guide, Supplemental Flight Manual, Quick Reference
Guide, Pilots Guide, Installation Manual, Training Syllabus, all kinds
of very useful stuff in there. Just think about how many times you have
wanted a manual and could not find it. Especially installation manuals
which they seem to keep tight reign on. I ran a job from the office to
get all of these, yes every one, so Ill keep them somewhere just in
case they disappear. Another fella did that right before they took the
appolo site down. I got a file from him like
sl40_install_560-0956-03a.pdf. I mean how would you ever figure out that
filename? So I hope to have these stashed just in case GArmin gets hit
by a bus.
<http://www.garmin.com/manuals/> http://www.garmin.com/manuals/
these
files below. So if you are
looking for a manual, just search this list (ex. Ctl-f 430) and append
the filename to the url above and you will have it.
Enjoy,
Mike Stewart
MX20_InstallationManual.pdf
SL30Nav_Comm_InstallationManual.pdf
......
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin manuals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Aircraft Technical Book Company" <winterland@rkymtnhi.com>
We are supposed to be national distributors for an aftermarket Garmin 430
training manual called Goal-Page-Set. Our first batch of inventory should
be here by late next week.
I haven't even seen this book yet, but we are good friends with the authors,
and I know the initial manuscripts have gotten excellent reviews from AOPA.
I think it was in the last issue of AOPA Flight Instructor.
You can read a preliminary write-up on it in our PilotsBooks catalog in the
navigation section. I'll post more when our actual inventory comes in the
door.
Andy
Builder's Bookstore
www.buildersbooks.com
PilotsBooks
www.Pilotsbooks.com
800 780-4115
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
cgalley wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> Any wiring direct circumvents the safety aspect of having a master switch.
>
> Shorts can and do happen. Aluminum airplanes do catch fire from such
> shorts.
>
> Not much left when that happens.
>
> Why take the chance?
>
> Cy Galley
> EAA Safety Programs Editor
> Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
Cy, I think we are all working under the assumption that "hot" devices
have their own fuse or breaker. The feed for the flaps on my plane has
an inline fuse at the battery.
Sam Buchanan
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Bryan Jones wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> Always hot? Very interesting idea. I can see the benefits. Only thing that
> comes to mind is all these spontaneous Ford automobile combustion cases that
> have been occurring lately. Any concern about that kind of thing?
>
> Bryan -8
> Houston
None. The feed to the flaps is fused at the battery.
Sam Buchanan
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Confused About Torque Specifications |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dwight Frye <dwight@openweave.org>
On Wed Feb 9 00:33:47 2005, Tedd McHenry wrote :
>A very informative site, for those interested in bolted joints, is
>www.boltscience.com. Caveat: this site is about industrial bolt applications,
>so many devices and techniques are discussed that aren't appropriate for
>aircraft. But there's lots of interesting and informative theory about bolted
>joints. I did not, however, find an answer to the question of washers under
>bolt heads there.
>
>Another good source of information is "Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners
>and Plumbing Handbook," available at amazon.com. This is mainly a car-racing
>book, but it's all about aircraft fasteners and plumbing hardware (which is
>what smart racers use).
I want to put in a plug for this book as well. My wife thought I was a bit
nuts (pun intended) reading it cover to cover like it was an engaging novel.
I'll have to go back and see if he says anything about washers under bolt
heads sometime soon. :)
>If you enjoy Carroll Smith's fasteners book, you may also enjoy his book
>"Engineer to Win," which is full of all sorts of interesting mechanical
>engineering theory that applies to airplanes.
Thanks for the recommendation. Based on how much I enjoyed his fasteners
book, I'll have to get this one too.
-- Dwight
do not archive
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Sorry Sam, I missed that one! When one assumes.....
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sam Buchanan" <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> cgalley wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
> >
> > Any wiring direct circumvents the safety aspect of having a master
switch.
> >
> > Shorts can and do happen. Aluminum airplanes do catch fire from such
> > shorts.
> >
> > Not much left when that happens.
> >
> > Why take the chance?
> >
> > Cy Galley
> > EAA Safety Programs Editor
> > Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
>
>
> Cy, I think we are all working under the assumption that "hot" devices
> have their own fuse or breaker. The feed for the flaps on my plane has
> an inline fuse at the battery.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 2/9/05 9:12:51 AM Central Standard Time,
DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com writes:
> Why not just pull the circuit breaker?
>>>
How's your reaction time? My master is right in front of the stick and I'm
programmed to punch it (rocker switch) immediately if anything misbehaves.
(strictly VFR) Engaging the e-bus gives me back the important stuff (engine
monitor, radios, EFIS etc.) Besides, the only breaker in my plane is the
alternator field lead per Aeroelectric Z-11. All else is fused from a fairly
difficult to reach fuse block. You could always put the feed for flaps & trims
on a
disconnect, (or locate and pull the correct breaker, if applicable) but I
prefer KISS.
Mark -6A N51PW, 150 hours
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <azpilot@extremezone.com>
Case in point why I like breakers. Not that I want to reset a breaker in
flight (something caused it to pop, so don't mess with it). But, when I am
trying to isolate problems, shut something down, it's nice to just pull a
breaker or two. Plus when something fails, it's easy to see that the
breaker popped.
Just personal preference. Bob's method make sense, but something about
being to pull a breaker to cut something off makes more sense to me. This
is exactly why newer Cessnas have a Klixon pull type breaker on the
autopilot. That thing runs away and the a/p disconnect doesn't work, I'm
pulling the breaker!
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 2/9/05 9:12:51 AM Central Standard Time,
DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com writes:
> Why not just pull the circuit breaker?
>>>
How's your reaction time? My master is right in front of the stick and I'm
programmed to punch it (rocker switch) immediately if anything misbehaves.
(strictly VFR) Engaging the e-bus gives me back the important stuff (engine
monitor, radios, EFIS etc.) Besides, the only breaker in my plane is the
alternator field lead per Aeroelectric Z-11. All else is fused from a
fairly
difficult to reach fuse block. You could always put the feed for flaps &
trims on a
disconnect, (or locate and pull the correct breaker, if applicable) but I
prefer KISS.
Mark -6A N51PW, 150 hours
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I would imagine the Ford cruise control circuitry is fused as well, but not
positive, er, certain. ;)
Bryan
do not archive
>
>None. The feed to the flaps is fused at the battery.
>
>Sam Buchanan
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Washers and bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
Quoting the entire AC43.13-1B may provide a little
better context to the washer argument:
7-86. PLAIN WASHERS (AN960 AND
AN970). Plain washers are widely used with
hex nuts to provide a smooth bearing surface,
act as a shim to obtain the proper grip length,
and to position castellated nuts in relation to
drilled cotter pin holes in bolts. Use plain
washers under lock washers to prevent damage
to bearing surfaces. Cadmium-plated steel
washers are recommended for use under
boltheads and nuts used on aluminum alloy or
magnesium structures to prevent corrosion.
The AN970 steel washer provides a larger
bearing surface than the plain type, and is often
used in wooden structures under boltheads and
nuts to prevent local crushing of the surface.
To me, this indicates that AN960 washers are typically
used under HEX NUTS. However, the paragraph that is
quoted is in reference to using cad plated washer VS
unplated washers.
Just my interpretation.
Skylor
RV-8 QB, under construction.
DO NOT ARCHIVE
--- linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters
> <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> John D. Heath wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath"
> <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
> >
> >TWIMC,
> > AC 43.13-1B, paragraph 7-86 says "...
> Cadmium-plated steel warshers are recommended for
> use under boltheads and nuts used on aluminum alloy
> or magnesium structures to prevent corrision. ...".
> That's a pretty good reason too.
> >
> > John D.
> >
> But if the bolt and nut is already cad plated
> ....... why? It's 'Das
> Feds' again!!! And it doesn't say 'under both'????
> Linn
> do not archive
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Washers and bolts |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
The main reason is that as you tighten the nuts and/or bolts some of the
cadmium is scratched off. Adding a washer does two things. Its protects
the aluminum from being gouged and somewhat protects the cadmium plating
from being scratched off. Another line of corrosion defense.
Mike Robertson
>From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Washers and bolts
>Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 08:12:59 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>John D. Heath wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
> >
> >TWIMC,
> > AC 43.13-1B, paragraph 7-86 says "... Cadmium-plated steel warshers
>are recommended for use under boltheads and nuts used on aluminum alloy or
>magnesium structures to prevent corrision. ...". That's a pretty good
>reason too.
> >
> > John D.
> >
>But if the bolt and nut is already cad plated ....... why? It's 'Das
>Feds' again!!! And it doesn't say 'under both'????
>Linn
>do not archive
>
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
One thing to keep in mind about having any electrical circuit hot all the
time is the possibility of shorts due to "growth" of oxide "whiskers." Silver
is especially notorious for this. Copper can also grow oxides and sulfides
with voltage applied 24/7. Any time moisture is present, the constant
voltage promotes leakage currents which can add up to several milliamps and drain
your battery. These effects get worse after time when things get dirty.
I know that there are many circuits in automobiles that are hot all the
time, and that's where the troubles start.
All the above are good reasons to switch everything off with a master relay.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying since last July)
In a message dated 2/9/05 9:04:02 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
rv_8pilot@hotmail.com writes:
Always hot? Very interesting idea. I can see the benefits. Only thing that
comes to mind is all these spontaneous Ford automobile combustion cases that
have been occurring lately. Any concern about that kind of thing?
Bryan -8
Houston
>
>Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
>sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
>flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
>shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
>have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
>
>This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
>
>Sam Buchanan
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/8/05 10:45:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, mphill@gcctv.com
writes:
<< I'm getting ready to install the brainbox for the PSS AOA system and was
wondering where everyone has been placing theirs? >>
FWIW I mounted mine on the top sloping surface of the recess box in the
firewall (inside). I made a mounting plate of 0.032 Al. with a short lower lip
and
installed it with 1/4 inch standoffs to protect the brain box from firewall
heat. I mounted the brainbox to the plate using industrial strength Velcro
strips and added a large tie wrap for extra security (belt and suspenders).
Seems to be working fine and is fairly easy to get to if necessary. Tip: check
the volume before finally securing everything. Mine almost blew me out of the
cabin the first time I tried it.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Mine's on the main bus. I don't see anything wrong with putting it on the
essential bus if you have extra fuses there and not on the main.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 27
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> One thing to keep in mind about having any electrical circuit hot all the
> time is the possibility of shorts due to "growth" of oxide "whiskers." Silver
> is especially notorious for this. Copper can also grow oxides and sulfides
> with voltage applied 24/7. Any time moisture is present, the constant
> voltage promotes leakage currents which can add up to several milliamps and
drain
> your battery. These effects get worse after time when things get dirty.
>
> I know that there are many circuits in automobiles that are hot all the
> time, and that's where the troubles start.
>
> All the above are good reasons to switch everything off with a master relay.
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying since last July)
A *bunch* of RVs have "hot" circuits. Anyone who has the very popular
wiring architecture by Bob Nuckolls (Aeroelectric Connection) has an
essential bus feed that is hooked directly to the battery and runs back
to the panel. The feed is protected by either a fuse or a fusible link
but it is hot all the time.
Also, there are many electronic gizmos in our modern panels that have
"keep alive" feeds. My iPAQ, digital clock, Dynon, uMonitor all have
keep alive feeds in order to either charge backup batteries or retain
memory data. With more and and more digital stuff being put in panels,
it seems keep alive circuits are here to stay!
Make sure the wiring to all the devices is protected and we should be
able to sleep easy at night. :-)
Sam Buchanan
Message 28
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2005 21:02 (CDT)
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
>
> Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
> sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
> flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
> shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
> have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
>
> This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
Sam did you add any kind of limit switches on your flaps? Are they needed?
-------
Surfing the web from Hopkinsville, KY
RV7A web site: http://www.geocities.com/hester-hoptown/RVSite
Message 29
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--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Bobby Hester wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bobby Hester" <bhester@hopkinsville.net>
>
>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>>Date: Tue, 08 Feb 2005 21:02 (CDT)
>>Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
>>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>>
>>
>>Dana, I have the flaps wired "hot all the time". I realize this may
>>sound a bit odd but I find it very convenient to be able to raise the
>>flaps prior to engine start and lower them after everything has been
>>shut down. There are other times (maintenance) when it is convenient to
>>have the flaps operational without turning on the master switch.
>>
>>This may or may not be a good idea for you but it works great for me.
>>
>>Sam Buchanan
>>
>
>
> Sam did you add any kind of limit switches on your flaps? Are they needed?
Bobby, no limit switches installed and they are not needed in my
opinion. The flap mechanism has some sort of clutch that releases when
the flaps hit the limits and the motor just freewheels.
But....I guess if the flap switch shorted out the flap motor would
continue to run until.......well....I guess until it died or you could
get on the ground and yank the fuse! :-)
It seems to me chances of a switch failure would be quite remote as long
as we use high-quality switches.
Sam Buchanan
Message 30
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--> RV-List message posted by: "LARRY ADAMSON" <rvhi03@msn.com>
----- Original Message -----
From: Sam Buchanan
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps
A *bunch* of RVs have "hot" circuits. Anyone who has the very popular
wiring architecture by Bob Nuckolls (Aeroelectric Connection) has an
essential bus feed that is hooked directly to the battery and runs back
to the panel. The feed is protected by either a fuse or a fusible link
but it is hot all the time.
The Bob Nuckolls circuit that I used, has a switch between the battery and essential
buss. The switch is rated for the essential buss load.
When this switch is off, the essential buss gets it's power from the main buss,
and is protected with a diode, when the main buss is off& essential is switched
on. At the moment, only my clock runs directly off the battery. BTW-- as to
runaway trims, I have a trim disconnect switch, as well as a push/pull circuit
breaker for aileron & elevator. If worse goes to worse, hit the trim disconnect
then take the offending servo/wire off line
Message 31
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
If you loses the positive post on the battery will the alternator still
provide juice?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 32
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| Subject: | Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I have a question for any electricians out there. I have a generator with a 220
twist lock socket that has four prongs. My air compressor only has three wires.
I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has terminals labeled X, Y, G(reen) and (I
can't remember the other one.) I only have a white, black, and green wire.
Any idea if I can make this work or not?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 33
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Dana,
An automobile alternator with internal regulator will do just that. You
initially need voltage to the field coil of the alternator to "boot strap"
the alternator into starting to produce voltage - but once that happens you
can remove the wire to the field coil and the alternator will continue to
produce voltage - at least until you kill the engine. That is why most
aircraft alternators have external regulators which you can stop the
alternator operation by removing the voltage to the field coil (pulling a
circuit breaker or using the alternator part of the split Master switch).
I found this out when I pull the circuit breaker on my alternator (auto)
while the engine was running - it continued to produce voltage like nothing
had changed. Now if the circuit breaker is pulled before engine start then
the alternator will not produce voltage because it never gets the "boot
strap" voltage from the battery to get started.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
>
>
> If you loses the positive post on the battery will the alternator still
> provide juice?
>
>
> Dana Overall
> Richmond, KY i39
> RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
> Finish kit
> 13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
> http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
> do not archive
>
>
Message 34
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| Subject: | Electrical feeds...was Flaps |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Dana,
The battery acts as a stabilizing load on the alternator. Without it,
strange things can happen to the charging system voltage if the
regulator gets into a sort of PIO. Once, a kind gentleman who was giving
my wife's Nissan a jump start unhooked the battery so that it wouldn't
suck up all the juice from the jump and it blew up the radio after it
started. I arrived just in time to see the radio smoking and turned it
off.
Weather you run everything directly off the battery post or through the
contactor or the E-bus, you still have a single point of failure at
either the positive or negative battery post. Battery posts usually
don't fall off, but who knows? They may well corrode and leave you
without juice when you need it. Maintenance cures that one, but then
again, the ughknown has been known to occur.
I still think that, if you have an electrically dependant engine, you
should have two sources of battery energy. The second battery wouldn't
necessarily have to be very big, just sized large enough to still have
something in it when you run out of fuel.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
Building an all electric RV-6
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: RV-List: Electrical feeds...was Flaps
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Interesting points about coming off the battery bus, now to again show
my
total electrical ignorance.
As my signature line shows, I am using a rotary 13B. In doing so I will
have dual injecters, dual electric fuel pumps and Tracy's electronic
engine
control system. I don't have a second mechanical "fire" source or
mechanical fuel pump (oh, man I'm building a death trap!!) Bear with me
now.
My battery bus feed comes off the positive terminal of the battery.
My
main bus is fed from the switched side of the battery contactor. My
alternator is attached inline using BC inline ANL to that same switched
side
of the battery contactor. All of what I have to say is trying to avoid
using two batteries. It has been mentioned to put everything above on
the
battery bus. Nah, as a single point failure of the battery post turns
me
into a glider.
So I guess here is the uninformed question. If the positive battery
post
falls off, rendering my battery bus inop, will the alternator continue
to
produce usable power to that switched side (merely in contact with my
main
bus feed line, not through the contactor) of the battery contactor,
thus
supplying my main bus/essential bus through the diode, with power. If
it
does, this provides me with an option other than a second battery.
Big question, will the alternator do what I want it to do without the
positive side of the battery connected? The big reason I ask is I had a
direct short of the generator in my old Bonanza and the battery got
switched
offline before the generator did. You can guess what happened with all
that
"excess" juice. The avionic shops loved getting all that avionic work!!
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 35
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
A lot of juice!!!...... protect for an over-voltage condition.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dana Overall
Subject: RV-List: Alternator
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
If you loses the positive post on the battery will the alternator still
provide juice?
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero1.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/aero3.jpg
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 36
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Bryan,
You are absolutely correct - I Should have updated the subject line.
Thanks,
Chuck Rowbotham
>From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: SUBJECT please
>Date: Wed, 09 Feb 2005 07:56:32 -0600
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>OK - my day to be list police. Be courteous and use the subject line.
>Please!
>
>Bryan
>do not archive
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham"
><crowbotham@hotmail.com>
> >
> >Hi Mark,
> >
> >We mounted ours behind the instrument panel (centered) and attached to
>the
> >rear of the forward baggage compartment.
> >
> >Chuck 7 Dave Rowbotham
> >RV-8A
> >
> > >From: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
> > >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> > >To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> > >Subject: RV-List: Date: Tue, 8 Feb 2005 19:30:09 -0600
> > >
> > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark/Micki Phillips" <mphill@gcctv.com>
> > >
> > >Im getting ready to install the brainbox for the PSS AOA system and was
> > >wondering where everyone has been placing theirs?
> > >Do not archive.
> > >Mark Phillips
> > >RV-6 Finishing
> > >Williamsville,Illinois
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dan Brown <dan@familybrown.org>
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNED MESSAGE-----
Hash: SHA1
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
| only has three wires. I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has terminals
| labeled X, Y, G(reen) and (I can't remember the other one.) I only
| have a white, black, and green wire. Any idea if I can make this
| work or not?
Two of the terminals on the plug are probably brass, a third is silver,
and the fourth is green. If the compressor motor is 220V, the black and
white wires will go to the two brass terminals, the green wire to the
green terminal, and nothing to the silver terminal.
- --
Dan Brown, KE6MKS, dan@familybrown.org
"Since all the world is but a story, it were well for thee to buy the
more enduring story rather than the story that is less enduring."
~ -- The Judgment of St. Colum Cille
-----BEGIN PGP SIGNATURE-----
iD8DBQFCCsyEyQGUivXxtkERAtgaAKDW2iIzhttdSDDJKWh4mczrRB5iyQCg63RT
fJB0Cji7L+FQfLXomNiJjs0=liee
-----END PGP SIGNATURE-----
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Scott,
Household 220 is made up of two 110v legs of opposite polarity. One is
pushing while the other pulls and they reverse 60 times a second. Fire
off your generator and test (with a wiggy or an AC voltmeter) the prongs
on your plug. If one prong of your generator shows 110 when tested to
ground (or green) and another prong does the same, test from one prong
to the other. If they are of the same polarity, you get nothing. If they
are opposite you get 220v. They'll probably be the X and Y prongs. Those
two legs would be hooked to the black and white wires from your
compressor (doesn't matter which). Greens would be hooked to each other.
The fourth prong should be neutral (white when wiring for 110v), which
will act just like ground. Ignore this prong. You only need it if you
are setting up two 110v circuits.
Check the wiring diagram on your compressor motor. Some of them can be
wired for 110 or 220 by moving some connectors. Make sure that the motor
is wired for 220 B4 hooking it up that way!
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott
Vanartsdalen
Subject: RV-List: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
I have a question for any electricians out there. I have a generator
with a 220 twist lock socket that has four prongs. My air compressor
only has three wires. I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has terminals
labeled X, Y, G(reen) and (I can't remember the other one.) I only have
a white, black, and green wire. Any idea if I can make this work or
not?
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mark Grieve <mark@macomb.com>
Scott,
You may want to create a special extension cord to connect the
compressor to the generator. This way you can move the compressor back
to your garage and you won't have to replace that outlet too. It will
also allow use of other 220 tools should the need arise. You will need a
4 prong twist lock plug to go into the generator, a 3 prong socket to
match your compressor plug and enough 12-3 wire to get to where you are
going. Good wiring advice has already been offered so just follow that.
It is best to keep the extension cord short as to avoid excessive
voltage drop. Better to run a longer air hose. If you are buying more
than a few feet of wire you may want to buy an extension cord and cut
off the molded ends. Buying off of the spool is much more expensive per
foot.
Mark
Do not archive
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
>I have a question for any electricians out there. I have a generator with a 220
twist lock socket that has four prongs. My air compressor only has three wires.
I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has terminals labeled X, Y, G(reen) and
(I can't remember the other one.) I only have a white, black, and green wire.
Any idea if I can make this work or not?
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
Message 41
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|
| Subject: | Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Great advice guys! Thanks!
Do not archive
Scott Vanartsdalen wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
>I have a question for any electricians out there. I have a generator with a 220
twist lock socket that has four prongs. My air compressor only has three wires.
I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has terminals labeled X, Y, G(reen) and
(I can't remember the other one.) I only have a white, black, and green wire.
Any idea if I can make this work or not?
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
>
Message 42
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|
| Subject: | Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Scott
Thanks for the "heads up".
If not already fixed you can thread the hole and install a threaded plug
(with Locktite) to prevent the hinge pin from coming out again.
George in Langley BC.
--> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
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