Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:08 AM - AOA cpu location (Edward Cole)
2. 04:42 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
3. 06:22 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 06:51 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Bob J)
5. 07:06 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (DWENSING@aol.com)
6. 09:11 AM - Oil Air Separator (Travis Hamblen)
7. 09:38 AM - Re: Flaps (Vanremog@aol.com)
8. 09:38 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (james frierson)
9. 10:29 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Scott Bilinski)
10. 10:31 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Stein Bruch)
11. 11:35 AM - Re: Safety Notice- Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (emrath@comcast.net)
12. 11:53 AM - Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question (lm4@juno.com)
13. 02:13 PM - Max PRM adjustment (DWENSING@aol.com)
14. 02:14 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Vanremog@aol.com)
15. 02:31 PM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Vanremog@aol.com)
16. 02:44 PM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Randy Lervold)
17. 03:27 PM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Randy Lervold)
18. 06:04 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (GMC)
19. 07:01 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
20. 09:17 PM - Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (DWENSING@aol.com)
21. 10:03 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (sarg314)
22. 11:22 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
23. 11:35 PM - Re: oil cooler hinge at the bottom? (randall)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | AOA cpu location |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole@comcast.net>
I mounted mine under the pilot's seat pan in the last bay nearest the
wing root using 2 pieces of aluminum angle. It was a nice snug fit.
I have a hole in the seat pan the allows access to the volume pot which
gets covered with a piece of tape to keep the dust out.
This allowed me to pick up the tubing right out of the wing conduit and
tap into the pitot and static lines which are also in the same area.
Ed Cole
RV6A
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HCRV6@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List:
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/8/05 10:45:14 PM Pacific Standard Time,
mphill@gcctv.com
writes:
<< I'm getting ready to install the brainbox for the PSS AOA system and
was
wondering where everyone has been placing theirs? >>
FWIW I mounted mine on the top sloping surface of the recess box in the
firewall (inside). I made a mounting plate of 0.032 Al. with a short
lower lip and
installed it with 1/4 inch standoffs to protect the brain box from
firewall
heat. I mounted the brainbox to the plate using industrial strength
Velcro
strips and added a large tie wrap for extra security (belt and
suspenders).
Seems to be working fine and is fairly easy to get to if necessary.
Tip: check
the volume before finally securing everything. Mine almost blew me out
of the
cabin the first time I tried it.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of with HTTP/1.1
Subject: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin
Installation
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
Scott: Another fix is to replace the hinge pin with one long enough to
remain engaged with all the hinge eyes while extending to the inboard
aileron hinge bracket. At the point where the pin exits the hinge, a
slight bend is introduced in the pin. This will allow the pin to be
installed as before but prevent it from migrating outboard past the
bracket. It also will prevent possible travel in the inboard direction.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Scott,
Just bend the last inch of the flap hinge pin so that it misses the hole by
about 1/8 inch. It will not be able to start itself into the hole, but you
can reach up with a pair of pliers and start it through. That's all I have
keeping my flap pin in place.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 2/10/05 1:05:56 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
scott@keadle.com writes:
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob J <rocketbob@gmail.com>
An easy fix for this: push the hinge pin back in place, and put an
aluminum-mandrel pop rivet or a cotter pin in the bracket hole. If
you need to remove the flap for some reason, simply drill out the pop
rivet or remove the cotter pin.
Bob Japundza
RV-6 flying F1 under const.
On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 01:02:21 -0500, scott@keadle.com <scott@keadle.com> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
>
> I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
> problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
> nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
> the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
>
> The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
> hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
> to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
> outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
> movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
>
> After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
> the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
> interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
> Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
> traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
> INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
> only a very few degrees.
>
> Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
> overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
> certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
> completely without ailerons.
>
> Scott Keadle
> KRUQ Salisbury, NC
> N844RF RV-8
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 2/10/05 1:05:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, scott@keadle.com
writes:
> The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
> hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
> to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
> outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
> movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
>
Scott,
A suggested remedy for your flap pin situation. Go to the local hobby shop
and pick up a package of 1/16" collars with Allen head set screws. Cut a new
hinge pin that is about an inch longer than the flap hinge. Install a collar on
the inboard end of the flap pin and tighten the set screw. The pin can now move
only inward toward the fuse.
Or, if you do not want to buy a new pin, and since your pin was cut to the
exact length of the hinge you can remove one of the hinge segments and place
the collar at that point which will only allow a little movement in either
direction.
I used this method and so far it has worked perfectly.
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE
Aero Plantation NC
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil
air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don=92t see how gravity
separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
these questions before I cut into the separator.
Travis
RV-6A @ VGT
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/9/2005 8:07:29 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
One thing to keep in mind about having any electrical circuit hot all the
time is the possibility of shorts due to "growth" of oxide "whiskers."
Silver
is especially notorious for this.
========================
Actually it is pure Tin plating that is notorious for this. Google search
on "Tin Whiskers" for more info.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
The separator works by taking the incoming blow-by gasses from the engine
and directing it towards the wall of the separator. The suspended oil/water
in the gasses collects on the sides and drains to the bottom. By adding the
SS pot scrubbers gives the suspended oil/water more area to collect on.
Check the archives and you will find more information on this subject.
Scott
RV6A Flying.
>From: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Oil Air Separator
>Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005 09:10:01 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>
>I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders
>oil
>air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
>is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
>the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
>have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don=92t see how gravity
>separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
>how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
>these questions before I cut into the separator.
>
>
>Travis
>
>RV-6A @ VGT
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
In my opinion you cannot evaporate oil with high temp. Now with that said
you can evaporate water with high temp. So the water vapor, just passes
through. The oil mist, collects on the pot scrubber, drains down and back
to the crank case.
At 09:10 AM 2/10/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" <TravisHamblen@cox.net>
>
>I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil
>air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
>is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
>the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
>have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don=92t see how gravity
>separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
>how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
>these questions before I cut into the separator.
>
>
>Travis
>
>RV-6A @ VGT
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Wow...people have a LOT of fixes for this, and it's nice to see a bunch of
innovative ideas.
That being said, many of us ole slow builders simply removed a center couple
of eyes from the hinges themsleves, cut the pin in two, bent two eyes on the
end and safety wired them together. Believe it or not, it makes removing
the flaps a cinch! The longest piece of pin you deal with is less than 3'
long, plus there is no holes in the Aileron bracket, etc....
It's now probably an "out of date" idea on these newer kits, but
none-the-less I'll still probably do it that way on my next one just because
it's so slick.
Just my 2 cents!
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DWENSING@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin
Installation
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 2/10/05 1:05:56 AM Eastern Standard Time,
scott@keadle.com
writes:
Scott,
A suggested remedy for your flap pin situation. Go to the local hobby shop
and pick up a package of 1/16" collars with Allen head set screws. Cut a new
hinge pin that is about an inch longer than the flap hinge. Install a collar
on
the inboard end of the flap pin and tighten the set screw. The pin can now
move
only inward toward the fuse.
Or, if you do not want to buy a new pin, and since your pin was cut to the
exact length of the hinge you can remove one of the hinge segments and place
the collar at that point which will only allow a little movement in either
direction.
I used this method and so far it has worked perfectly.
Dale Ensing
RV6A N118DE
Aero Plantation NC
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | RE: Safety Notice- Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: emrath@comcast.net
Or one can just put a piece of safetywire through the aileron bracket hole on the
out board end, and crimp shut part of the last hinge piece on the inboard end.
Marty
Time: 10:44:13 PM PST US
From: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Subject: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation
--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Scott
Thanks for the "heads up".
If not already fixed you can thread the hole and install a threaded plug
(with Locktite) to prevent the hinge pin from coming out again.
George in Langley BC.
--> RV-List message posted by: <scott@keadle.com> with HTTP/1.1;
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard direction.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
Or one can just put a piece of safetywire through the aileron bracket hole on the
out board end, and crimp shut part of the last hinge piece on the inboard end.
Marty
Time:
10:44:13 PM PST US
From:
GMC gmcnutt@shaw.ca
Subject:
Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation
-- RV-List message posted by: GMC gmcnutt@shaw.ca
Hi Scott
Thanks for the "heads up".
If not already fixed you can thread the hole and install a threaded plug
(with Locktite) to prevent the hinge pin from coming out again.
George in Langley BC.
-- RV-List messag
e posted by: scott@keadle.com with HTTP/1.1;
I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a
problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in
nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that
the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane.
The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap
hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange
to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the
outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against
movement in either the inboard or outboard di
rection.
After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection,
the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to
interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection.
Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have
traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself
INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to
only a very few degrees.
Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then
overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it
certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost
 
; completely without ailerons.
Scott Keadle
KRUQ Salisbury, NC
N844RF RV-8
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question |
--> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com
Scott,
Your generator is rigged to supply (110 vac ) ( 110 vac )
( a neutral-for the operation of 110 vac instrumentation, or some such )
( a grounding wire ). Your compressor, I'm assuming it has no
instrumentation or 110 vac accessories AND is wired for 220 vac,
should not need a neutral. Of course it will need a ground wire.
Black--110 vac, white--110 vac, green--ground. Keep in mind that
I can't see the equipment from here. I would suggest that you
check the terminal boxes and schematics to be sure the machines
are both wired for the voltage you need. HTH.
Larry Mac Donald
Rochester N.Y.
do not archive
On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 17:56:54 -0800 (PST) Scott Vanartsdalen
<svanarts@yahoo.com> writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen
> <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
> I have a question for any electricians out there. I have a
> generator with a 220 twist lock socket that has four prongs. My air
> compressor only has three wires. I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has
> terminals labeled X, Y, G(reen) and (I can't remember the other
> one.) I only have a white, black, and green wire. Any idea if I
> can make this work or not?
>
>
> --
> Scott VanArtsdalen
> RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
Need to adjust/reduce max RPM on O-360 w/Hartzell CS prop and Woodward
governor. Searched archive but no info found. Do I adjust the governor or the prop?
Dale Ensing
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/10/2005 1:50:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
TravisHamblen@cox.net writes:
I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil
air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don't see how gravity
separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
these questions before I cut into the separator.
======================================
I have done this and it really works well. Don't bother with the expensive
ones. Just buy the big common inexpensive one (if you have room on the
firewall). Wicks carries both the 5/8" and the 3/4" dia hose barb equipped ones.
Two offset tubes come into the central canister portion of the separator and
the action of getting the air from one tube to the other causes an abrupt
change in direction. Anything more massive than the air (oil vapor) keeps
going, condenses right against the side of the canister and is ultimately drained
out the bottom tap into a drainable receptacle.
The theory is sound but the action is imperfect, some oil still gets out
thru the tube and ends up on the a/c belly. Adding the pot scrubber gives the
action the additional condensing ability it needs to ring the smaller oil
aspirate out of the air stream.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/10/2005 2:15:08 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
DWENSING@aol.com writes:
Need to adjust/reduce max RPM on O-360 w/Hartzell CS prop and Woodward
governor. Searched archive but no info found. Do I adjust the governor or
the prop?
==========================================
On the prop. This is very easy to accomplish and requires only a hex key
wrench of the appropriate size and an ignition wrench for the jam nut. This
procedure is covered in the Hartzell manual 115N Rev 7 Page 4-4 thru 4-5 (for
their common non-feathering props) and
Page 4-6 thru 4-7 (for their feathering props).
Basically, to reduce max rpm you loosen the jam nut slightly and hold it
from turning with the ignition wrench. Then turn the Allen screw clockwise (in)
and hold it from turning as you retighten the jam nut. Torque values are
all listed in the procedure.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> Need to adjust/reduce max RPM on O-360 w/Hartzell CS prop and Woodward
> governor. Searched archive but no info found. Do I adjust the governor or
the prop?
> Dale Ensing
If this is at flying speeds then adjust the governor... easy to do.
Randy Lervold
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> On the prop. This is very easy to accomplish and requires only a hex key
> wrench of the appropriate size and an ignition wrench for the jam nut.
This
> procedure is covered in the Hartzell manual 115N Rev 7 Page 4-4 thru 4-5
(for
> their common non-feathering props) and
> Page 4-6 thru 4-7 (for their feathering props).
>
> Basically, to reduce max rpm you loosen the jam nut slightly and hold it
> from turning with the ignition wrench. Then turn the Allen screw
clockwise (in)
> and hold it from turning as you retighten the jam nut. Torque values are
> all listed in the procedure.
>
> GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
GV, my understanding is that the only time to set the pitch stops on the
prop hub is for adjusting static (aircraft stationary) rpm. Once you're in
flight the governor controls everything so long as the pitch stops allow
enough travel.
Randy Lervold
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Since nobody has mentioned this as yet I will chime in and say that if you
do add a pot scrubber to the air oil separator also add an item on your
conditional inspection to check it periodically, un-maintained, they can
plug up with sludge and pressurize the crankcase.
George in Langley BC
-------
In a message dated 2/10/2005 1:50:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
TravisHamblen@cox.net writes:
I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders
oil
air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question
is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside
the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I
have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don't see how gravity
separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand
how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer
these questions before I cut into the separator.
======================================
I have done this and it really works well. Don't bother with the expensive
ones. Just buy the big common inexpensive one (if you have room on the
firewall). Wicks carries both the 5/8" and the 3/4" dia hose barb equipped
ones.
Two offset tubes come into the central canister portion of the separator
and
the action of getting the air from one tube to the other causes an abrupt
change in direction. Anything more massive than the air (oil vapor) keeps
going, condenses right against the side of the canister and is ultimately
drained
out the bottom tap into a drainable receptacle.
The theory is sound but the action is imperfect, some oil still gets out
thru the tube and ends up on the a/c belly. Adding the pot scrubber gives
the
action the additional condensing ability it needs to ring the smaller oil
aspirate out of the air stream.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 02/10/2005 3:50:38 PM Central Standard Time,
TravisHamblen@cox.net writes:
how does this improve the performance of the separator?
>>>
Oil mist from the crankcase vent condenses on the HUGE surface area provided
by the many strands of stainless steel of the pot scrubbers as the oily gases
flow through it, and slowly runs down to the bottom of the separator. (not
advisable to let this drain back into the sump- nasty stuff, could contain bad
materials such as water and combustion gas by-products!) I routinely drain at
least 2 or 3 tablespoons of oil from my separator at each 50 hour oil change.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 2/10/05 11:58:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
> Just bend the last inch of the flap hinge pin so that it misses the hole by
>
> about 1/8 inch. It will not be able to start itself into the hole, but you
>
> can reach up with a pair of pliers and start it through. That's all I have
>
> keeping my flap pin in place.
>
>
Dan,
Tried that but the aileron hinge bracket hits the flap hinge pin when the
aileron is in the up position. At least on the 6 it does.
Dale Ensing
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator.
Are there any such?
Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a
little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on
the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need to
clean it off?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
sarg314 wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator.
>Are there any such?
>
>Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a
>little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on
>the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need to
>clean it off?
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>
>
>_
>
Tom,
I dont have one at this time. Except for inverted flight, most of the
oil vapor is going to come from blo-by gas. I think a tight set of rings
will have minimum blo-by. I have Total Seal rings in my engine and I
have practically zero blo- by. I just run a vent tube down and out made
from sceet tube. it is about 1 inch. I dont have any oil on belly yet.
If I wanted to take it inverted, I would add an inverted system but I
wanted to have a little more room in the firewall area so I didnt put it
on....
There is another rv on the field that pipes this vent tube to a little
bracket on top of one of the exhaust pipes, where it is burned or
vaporized. He also doesnt seem to have any oil on belly. That seems like
a niffty little way of doing it. There would be some oil dumped
overboard after inverted flight. I dont know if this would ignite or go
out as smoke.. I think if you plan on flying upside down, a seperator of
some sort will be a must, or else you are going to dump a lot of oil. It
seems like two drops of oil will cover an airplane.
Phil
do not archive
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler hinge at the bottom? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
> It seems to me easier to manage the oil cooler door if it was hinged on
the bottom and not the top so it just flops down out of the way and stays
there on a windy day. Never seen it done so I must be missing something.
Anyone been there done that and have an opinion?
>
> thx,
> lucky
I don't think a hinged door is worthwhile regardless of where the hinge is.
Mine is hinged on the side and either too much air still blows through
(pushing the door open a bit) or else it swirls around the fins because it
makes little difference in oil temp at least in winter when I want it to
work closed. So even with the door I end up sticking a plate on the front in
the winter to block it compeletely, otherwise the OT won't even get up into
the green. If I were doing it over I'd make a sliding door that goes up from
the bottom and covers the front of the cooler. I saw a picture of such an
installation on a -6 somewhere....
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|