---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 02/10/05: 23 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 01:08 AM - AOA cpu location (Edward Cole) 2. 04:42 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Gordon or Marge Comfort) 3. 06:22 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 4. 06:51 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Bob J) 5. 07:06 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (DWENSING@aol.com) 6. 09:11 AM - Oil Air Separator (Travis Hamblen) 7. 09:38 AM - Re: Flaps (Vanremog@aol.com) 8. 09:38 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (james frierson) 9. 10:29 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Scott Bilinski) 10. 10:31 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Stein Bruch) 11. 11:35 AM - Re: Safety Notice- Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (emrath@comcast.net) 12. 11:53 AM - Re: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question (lm4@juno.com) 13. 02:13 PM - Max PRM adjustment (DWENSING@aol.com) 14. 02:14 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Vanremog@aol.com) 15. 02:31 PM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Vanremog@aol.com) 16. 02:44 PM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Randy Lervold) 17. 03:27 PM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Randy Lervold) 18. 06:04 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (GMC) 19. 07:01 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Fiveonepw@aol.com) 20. 09:17 PM - Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (DWENSING@aol.com) 21. 10:03 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (sarg314) 22. 11:22 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club) 23. 11:35 PM - Re: oil cooler hinge at the bottom? (randall) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 01:08:12 AM PST US From: "Edward Cole" Subject: RV-List: AOA cpu location --> RV-List message posted by: "Edward Cole" I mounted mine under the pilot's seat pan in the last bay nearest the wing root using 2 pieces of aluminum angle. It was a nice snug fit. I have a hole in the seat pan the allows access to the volume pot which gets covered with a piece of tape to keep the dust out. This allowed me to pick up the tubing right out of the wing conduit and tap into the pitot and static lines which are also in the same area. Ed Cole RV6A -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com In a message dated 2/8/05 10:45:14 PM Pacific Standard Time, mphill@gcctv.com writes: << I'm getting ready to install the brainbox for the PSS AOA system and was wondering where everyone has been placing theirs? >> FWIW I mounted mine on the top sloping surface of the recess box in the firewall (inside). I made a mounting plate of 0.032 Al. with a short lower lip and installed it with 1/4 inch standoffs to protect the brain box from firewall heat. I mounted the brainbox to the plate using industrial strength Velcro strips and added a large tie wrap for extra security (belt and suspenders). Seems to be working fine and is fairly easy to get to if necessary. Tip: check the volume before finally securing everything. Mine almost blew me out of the cabin the first time I tried it. Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, flying! ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:42:49 AM PST US From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" Subject: RE: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of with HTTP/1.1 Subject: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against movement in either the inboard or outboard direction. Scott Keadle KRUQ Salisbury, NC N844RF RV-8 Scott: Another fix is to replace the hinge pin with one long enough to remain engaged with all the hinge eyes while extending to the inboard aileron hinge bracket. At the point where the pin exits the hinge, a slight bend is introduced in the pin. This will allow the pin to be installed as before but prevent it from migrating outboard past the bracket. It also will prevent possible travel in the inboard direction. Gordon Comfort N363GC ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:22:16 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Scott, Just bend the last inch of the flap hinge pin so that it misses the hole by about 1/8 inch. It will not be able to start itself into the hole, but you can reach up with a pair of pliers and start it through. That's all I have keeping my flap pin in place. Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying) In a message dated 2/10/05 1:05:56 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time, scott@keadle.com writes: I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane. The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against movement in either the inboard or outboard direction. After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection, the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection. Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to only a very few degrees. Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost completely without ailerons. Scott Keadle KRUQ Salisbury, NC N844RF RV-8 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:51:55 AM PST US From: Bob J Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation --> RV-List message posted by: Bob J An easy fix for this: push the hinge pin back in place, and put an aluminum-mandrel pop rivet or a cotter pin in the bracket hole. If you need to remove the flap for some reason, simply drill out the pop rivet or remove the cotter pin. Bob Japundza RV-6 flying F1 under const. On Thu, 10 Feb 2005 01:02:21 -0500, scott@keadle.com wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: with HTTP/1.1; > > I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a > problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in > nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that > the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane. > > The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap > hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange > to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the > outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against > movement in either the inboard or outboard direction. > > After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection, > the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to > interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection. > Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have > traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself > INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to > only a very few degrees. > > Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then > overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it > certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost > completely without ailerons. > > Scott Keadle > KRUQ Salisbury, NC > N844RF RV-8 > > > ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:06:25 AM PST US From: DWENSING@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com In a message dated 2/10/05 1:05:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, scott@keadle.com writes: > The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap > hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange > to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the > outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against > movement in either the inboard or outboard direction. > Scott, A suggested remedy for your flap pin situation. Go to the local hobby shop and pick up a package of 1/16" collars with Allen head set screws. Cut a new hinge pin that is about an inch longer than the flap hinge. Install a collar on the inboard end of the flap pin and tighten the set screw. The pin can now move only inward toward the fuse. Or, if you do not want to buy a new pin, and since your pin was cut to the exact length of the hinge you can remove one of the hinge segments and place the collar at that point which will only allow a little movement in either direction. I used this method and so far it has worked perfectly. Dale Ensing RV6A N118DE Aero Plantation NC ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:11:35 AM PST US From: "Travis Hamblen" Subject: RV-List: Oil Air Separator --> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don=92t see how gravity separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer these questions before I cut into the separator. Travis RV-6A @ VGT -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:38:52 AM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Flaps --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 2/9/2005 8:07:29 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, Hopperdhh@aol.com writes: One thing to keep in mind about having any electrical circuit hot all the time is the possibility of shorts due to "growth" of oxide "whiskers." Silver is especially notorious for this. ======================== Actually it is pure Tin plating that is notorious for this. Google search on "Tin Whiskers" for more info. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 09:38:52 AM PST US From: "james frierson" Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Air Separator --> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" The separator works by taking the incoming blow-by gasses from the engine and directing it towards the wall of the separator. The suspended oil/water in the gasses collects on the sides and drains to the bottom. By adding the SS pot scrubbers gives the suspended oil/water more area to collect on. Check the archives and you will find more information on this subject. Scott RV6A Flying. >From: "Travis Hamblen" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: >Subject: RV-List: Oil Air Separator >Date: Thu, 10 Feb 2005 09:10:01 -0800 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" > >I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders >oil >air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question >is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside >the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I >have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don=92t see how gravity >separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand >how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer >these questions before I cut into the separator. > > >Travis > >RV-6A @ VGT > > >-- >No virus found in this outgoing message. >Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 10:29:45 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Air Separator --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski In my opinion you cannot evaporate oil with high temp. Now with that said you can evaporate water with high temp. So the water vapor, just passes through. The oil mist, collects on the pot scrubber, drains down and back to the crank case. At 09:10 AM 2/10/2005 -0800, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Travis Hamblen" > >I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil >air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question >is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside >the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I >have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don=92t see how gravity >separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand >how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer >these questions before I cut into the separator. > > >Travis > >RV-6A @ VGT > > >-- >No virus found in this outgoing message. >Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:31:57 AM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Wow...people have a LOT of fixes for this, and it's nice to see a bunch of innovative ideas. That being said, many of us ole slow builders simply removed a center couple of eyes from the hinges themsleves, cut the pin in two, bent two eyes on the end and safety wired them together. Believe it or not, it makes removing the flaps a cinch! The longest piece of pin you deal with is less than 3' long, plus there is no holes in the Aileron bracket, etc.... It's now probably an "out of date" idea on these newer kits, but none-the-less I'll still probably do it that way on my next one just because it's so slick. Just my 2 cents! Cheers, Stein. -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DWENSING@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com In a message dated 2/10/05 1:05:56 AM Eastern Standard Time, scott@keadle.com writes: Scott, A suggested remedy for your flap pin situation. Go to the local hobby shop and pick up a package of 1/16" collars with Allen head set screws. Cut a new hinge pin that is about an inch longer than the flap hinge. Install a collar on the inboard end of the flap pin and tighten the set screw. The pin can now move only inward toward the fuse. Or, if you do not want to buy a new pin, and since your pin was cut to the exact length of the hinge you can remove one of the hinge segments and place the collar at that point which will only allow a little movement in either direction. I used this method and so far it has worked perfectly. Dale Ensing RV6A N118DE Aero Plantation NC ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:35:43 AM PST US From: emrath@comcast.net Subject: RV-List: RE: Safety Notice- Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation 0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary 0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses --> RV-List message posted by: emrath@comcast.net Or one can just put a piece of safetywire through the aileron bracket hole on the out board end, and crimp shut part of the last hinge piece on the inboard end. Marty Time: 10:44:13 PM PST US From: GMC Subject: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation --> RV-List message posted by: GMC Hi Scott Thanks for the "heads up". If not already fixed you can thread the hole and install a threaded plug (with Locktite) to prevent the hinge pin from coming out again. George in Langley BC. --> RV-List message posted by: with HTTP/1.1; I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane. The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against movement in either the inboard or outboard direction. After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection, the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection. Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to only a very few degrees. Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost completely without ailerons. Scott Keadle KRUQ Salisbury, NC N844RF RV-8 Or one can just put a piece of safetywire through the aileron bracket hole on the out board end, and crimp shut part of the last hinge piece on the inboard end. Marty Time: 10:44:13 PM PST US From: GMC gmcnutt@shaw.ca Subject: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation -- RV-List message posted by: GMC gmcnutt@shaw.ca Hi Scott Thanks for the "heads up". If not already fixed you can thread the hole and install a threaded plug (with Locktite) to prevent the hinge pin from coming out again. George in Langley BC. -- RV-List messag e posted by: scott@keadle.com with HTTP/1.1; I purchased an RV8 (about 130h TTAF), and yesterday noticed a problem with my flap hinge installation which could result in nearly complete loss of aileron travel. Please confirm that the following problem doesn't apply to your airplane. The flap hinge pin was cut exactly to the length of the flap hinge, and a hole was cut in the inboard aileron hinge flange to facilitate installation of the flap hinge pin from the outboard side. The flap hinge pin was not secured against movement in either the inboard or outboard di rection. After feeling an abnormal "bump" at full aileron deflection, the pin was seen to have moved outboard far enough to interfere with the last few degrees of aileron deflection. Had the pin continued to move outboard, it would have traveled past the aileron hinge flange, and inserted itself INSIDE the aileron itself, limiting the aileron travel to only a very few degrees. Whether or not a pilot could diagnose the problem and then overpower the obstruction I hope we never find out, but it certainly presents the potential to make the airplane almost   ; completely without ailerons. Scott Keadle KRUQ Salisbury, NC N844RF RV-8 ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:53:18 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV-List: Off topic: 220V Electrical wiring question From: lm4@juno.com --> RV-List message posted by: lm4@juno.com Scott, Your generator is rigged to supply (110 vac ) ( 110 vac ) ( a neutral-for the operation of 110 vac instrumentation, or some such ) ( a grounding wire ). Your compressor, I'm assuming it has no instrumentation or 110 vac accessories AND is wired for 220 vac, should not need a neutral. Of course it will need a ground wire. Black--110 vac, white--110 vac, green--ground. Keep in mind that I can't see the equipment from here. I would suggest that you check the terminal boxes and schematics to be sure the machines are both wired for the voltage you need. HTH. Larry Mac Donald Rochester N.Y. do not archive On Wed, 9 Feb 2005 17:56:54 -0800 (PST) Scott Vanartsdalen writes: > --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen > > > I have a question for any electricians out there. I have a > generator with a 220 twist lock socket that has four prongs. My air > compressor only has three wires. I have a 4 prong 220 plug which has > terminals labeled X, Y, G(reen) and (I can't remember the other > one.) I only have a white, black, and green wire. Any idea if I > can make this work or not? > > > -- > Scott VanArtsdalen > RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!! > > When a man does all he can > though it succeeds not well, > blame not him that did it." > -- George Washington > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 02:13:39 PM PST US From: DWENSING@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Max PRM adjustment --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com Need to adjust/reduce max RPM on O-360 w/Hartzell CS prop and Woodward governor. Searched archive but no info found. Do I adjust the governor or the prop? Dale Ensing ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 02:14:49 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Air Separator --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 2/10/2005 1:50:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, TravisHamblen@cox.net writes: I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don't see how gravity separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer these questions before I cut into the separator. ====================================== I have done this and it really works well. Don't bother with the expensive ones. Just buy the big common inexpensive one (if you have room on the firewall). Wicks carries both the 5/8" and the 3/4" dia hose barb equipped ones. Two offset tubes come into the central canister portion of the separator and the action of getting the air from one tube to the other causes an abrupt change in direction. Anything more massive than the air (oil vapor) keeps going, condenses right against the side of the canister and is ultimately drained out the bottom tap into a drainable receptacle. The theory is sound but the action is imperfect, some oil still gets out thru the tube and ends up on the a/c belly. Adding the pot scrubber gives the action the additional condensing ability it needs to ring the smaller oil aspirate out of the air stream. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 02:31:21 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Max PRM adjustment --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com In a message dated 2/10/2005 2:15:08 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, DWENSING@aol.com writes: Need to adjust/reduce max RPM on O-360 w/Hartzell CS prop and Woodward governor. Searched archive but no info found. Do I adjust the governor or the prop? ========================================== On the prop. This is very easy to accomplish and requires only a hex key wrench of the appropriate size and an ignition wrench for the jam nut. This procedure is covered in the Hartzell manual 115N Rev 7 Page 4-4 thru 4-5 (for their common non-feathering props) and Page 4-6 thru 4-7 (for their feathering props). Basically, to reduce max rpm you loosen the jam nut slightly and hold it from turning with the ignition wrench. Then turn the Allen screw clockwise (in) and hold it from turning as you retighten the jam nut. Torque values are all listed in the procedure. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 02:44:27 PM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Max PRM adjustment --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > Need to adjust/reduce max RPM on O-360 w/Hartzell CS prop and Woodward > governor. Searched archive but no info found. Do I adjust the governor or the prop? > Dale Ensing If this is at flying speeds then adjust the governor... easy to do. Randy Lervold ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 03:27:15 PM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: Max PRM adjustment --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > On the prop. This is very easy to accomplish and requires only a hex key > wrench of the appropriate size and an ignition wrench for the jam nut. This > procedure is covered in the Hartzell manual 115N Rev 7 Page 4-4 thru 4-5 (for > their common non-feathering props) and > Page 4-6 thru 4-7 (for their feathering props). > > Basically, to reduce max rpm you loosen the jam nut slightly and hold it > from turning with the ignition wrench. Then turn the Allen screw clockwise (in) > and hold it from turning as you retighten the jam nut. Torque values are > all listed in the procedure. > > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) GV, my understanding is that the only time to set the pitch stops on the prop hub is for adjusting static (aircraft stationary) rpm. Once you're in flight the governor controls everything so long as the pitch stops allow enough travel. Randy Lervold ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 06:04:58 PM PST US From: GMC Subject: RE: RV-List: Oil Air Separator --> RV-List message posted by: GMC Since nobody has mentioned this as yet I will chime in and say that if you do add a pot scrubber to the air oil separator also add an item on your conditional inspection to check it periodically, un-maintained, they can plug up with sludge and pressurize the crankcase. George in Langley BC ------- In a message dated 2/10/2005 1:50:38 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, TravisHamblen@cox.net writes: I have read the suggestions posted here about modifying the homebuilders oil air separator by inserting the stainless steel pot scrubbers. My question is, how does this improve the performance of the separator? What is inside the separator before it is modified? Lastly, how does this thing work? I have heard that it is a gravity type deal, but I don't see how gravity separates the oil, water, and air into separate output tubes. I understand how to do the modification, but just wanted to see if anyone could answer these questions before I cut into the separator. ====================================== I have done this and it really works well. Don't bother with the expensive ones. Just buy the big common inexpensive one (if you have room on the firewall). Wicks carries both the 5/8" and the 3/4" dia hose barb equipped ones. Two offset tubes come into the central canister portion of the separator and the action of getting the air from one tube to the other causes an abrupt change in direction. Anything more massive than the air (oil vapor) keeps going, condenses right against the side of the canister and is ultimately drained out the bottom tap into a drainable receptacle. The theory is sound but the action is imperfect, some oil still gets out thru the tube and ends up on the a/c belly. Adding the pot scrubber gives the action the additional condensing ability it needs to ring the smaller oil aspirate out of the air stream. GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA) ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 07:01:22 PM PST US From: Fiveonepw@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Air Separator --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com In a message dated 02/10/2005 3:50:38 PM Central Standard Time, TravisHamblen@cox.net writes: how does this improve the performance of the separator? >>> Oil mist from the crankcase vent condenses on the HUGE surface area provided by the many strands of stainless steel of the pot scrubbers as the oily gases flow through it, and slowly runs down to the bottom of the separator. (not advisable to let this drain back into the sump- nasty stuff, could contain bad materials such as water and combustion gas by-products!) I routinely drain at least 2 or 3 tablespoons of oil from my separator at each 50 hour oil change. From The PossumWorks in TN Mark Phillips ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:17:28 PM PST US From: DWENSING@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation --> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com In a message dated 2/10/05 11:58:52 PM Eastern Standard Time, Hopperdhh@aol.com writes: > Just bend the last inch of the flap hinge pin so that it misses the hole by > > about 1/8 inch. It will not be able to start itself into the hole, but you > > can reach up with a pair of pliers and start it through. That's all I have > > keeping my flap pin in place. > > Dan, Tried that but the aileron hinge bracket hits the flap hinge pin when the aileron is in the up position. At least on the 6 it does. Dale Ensing ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 10:03:21 PM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Air Separator --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator. Are there any such? Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need to clean it off? -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 11:22:21 PM PST US From: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Air Separator --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" sarg314 wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 > >I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator. >Are there any such? > >Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a >little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on >the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need to >clean it off? >-- >Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine. > > >_ > Tom, I dont have one at this time. Except for inverted flight, most of the oil vapor is going to come from blo-by gas. I think a tight set of rings will have minimum blo-by. I have Total Seal rings in my engine and I have practically zero blo- by. I just run a vent tube down and out made from sceet tube. it is about 1 inch. I dont have any oil on belly yet. If I wanted to take it inverted, I would add an inverted system but I wanted to have a little more room in the firewall area so I didnt put it on.... There is another rv on the field that pipes this vent tube to a little bracket on top of one of the exhaust pipes, where it is burned or vaporized. He also doesnt seem to have any oil on belly. That seems like a niffty little way of doing it. There would be some oil dumped overboard after inverted flight. I dont know if this would ignite or go out as smoke.. I think if you plan on flying upside down, a seperator of some sort will be a must, or else you are going to dump a lot of oil. It seems like two drops of oil will cover an airplane. Phil do not archive ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 11:35:46 PM PST US From: "randall" Subject: Re: RV-List: oil cooler hinge at the bottom? --> RV-List message posted by: "randall" > It seems to me easier to manage the oil cooler door if it was hinged on the bottom and not the top so it just flops down out of the way and stays there on a windy day. Never seen it done so I must be missing something. Anyone been there done that and have an opinion? > > thx, > lucky I don't think a hinged door is worthwhile regardless of where the hinge is. Mine is hinged on the side and either too much air still blows through (pushing the door open a bit) or else it swirls around the fins because it makes little difference in oil temp at least in winter when I want it to work closed. So even with the door I end up sticking a plate on the front in the winter to block it compeletely, otherwise the OT won't even get up into the green. If I were doing it over I'd make a sliding door that goes up from the bottom and covers the front of the cooler. I saw a picture of such an installation on a -6 somewhere.... Randall Henderson RV-6