Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:42 AM - Re: Weighty Question (randall)
2. 05:09 AM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Bryan Jones)
3. 05:15 AM - Re: Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
4. 05:20 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Charlie Kuss)
5. 05:29 AM - Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation (Darwin N. Barrie)
6. 05:46 AM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Kevin Horton)
7. 05:50 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Charles Heathco)
8. 05:59 AM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Alex Peterson)
9. 06:01 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Gary Zilik)
10. 06:19 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (linn walters)
11. 06:33 AM - Re: Weighty Question (DWENSING@aol.com)
12. 06:38 AM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Bryan Jones)
13. 06:50 AM - Re: Weighty Question (Scott Bilinski)
14. 07:33 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator ()
15. 07:33 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Denis Walsh)
16. 07:37 AM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Alex Peterson)
17. 08:01 AM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Kevin Horton)
18. 09:45 AM - Davtron Voltmeter (Roger Embree)
19. 10:19 AM - Re: Davtron Voltmeter (Dave Bristol)
20. 11:00 AM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Chuck Jensen)
21. 12:45 PM - Bolt hole not strait (George Inman)
22. 01:02 PM - Re: Bolt hole not strait (Albert Gardner)
23. 01:29 PM - Re: Bolt hole not strait (Bryan Jones)
24. 02:00 PM - Narco wiring harness- part needed (Jeff Point)
25. 02:41 PM - Harmonic Vibration (John Furey)
26. 02:50 PM - Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants (Jerry Isler)
27. 03:01 PM - Re: Harmonic Vibration (Jim Jewell)
28. 04:21 PM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (JOHN STARN)
29. 04:21 PM - Re: Harmonic Vibration (Doug Rozendaal)
30. 05:51 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Jim Jewell)
31. 06:02 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator-subject Changing to Total Seal rings.... (Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club)
32. 06:07 PM - Avmap EKP IV (Edward Cole)
33. 06:40 PM - Re: Harmonic Vibration (John Furey)
34. 08:32 PM - Re: Harmonic Vibration (Alex Peterson)
35. 08:45 PM - Re: Max PRM adjustment (Vanremog@aol.com)
36. 08:45 PM - Re: Oil Air Separator (Vanremog@aol.com)
37. 08:45 PM - Re: E-mags/P-mags (Vanremog@aol.com)
38. 11:26 PM - Re: Harmonic Vibration (Wayne Glasser)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Weighty Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "randall" <rv6n6r@comcast.net>
> Dear Dan,
> Very good point, but how much time am I going to spend climbing vs.
cruising?
>
> If weight would be of a concern to you, would you then go 180hp/Hartzell
CS, ...or take the other option, a 200hp/FP setup?
> (Anyone know the weight difference anyway between these two setups, just
curious?)
>
> So, please pick one of the two options, and tell me why you think one
would be better then the other?
For MY purposes, I would pick a CS over a larger engine. The reasons include
better acceleration, better climb, better deceleration -- overall the plane
simply responds to power changes more quickly. It also gives you better
performance at high altitudes than FP props typically do. The quicker
response to power changes is especially helpful when flying formation, if
you do that sort of thing.
The weight penalty with my Hartzell CS prop is a factor. The plane doesn't
have as light of a feel in aerobatics and maneuvering as a lighter weight RV
does. But that's comparing RVs to RVs -- it still beats any factory plane
I've flown hands down. And the weight thing can be overcome by lightening
your wallet by the amount needed to purchase one of those new lightweight CS
props!
Bottom line, the CS prop suits the way I fly, but others will have different
priorities. Just my .02.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Another way to think of it... the ground (prop hub stop) adjustment will
not "control" the prop rpm, it only sets the prop pitch angle stop. Set it
one day, and the next it may be totally off due to variations in atmospheric
conditions. The governor controls prop rpm (almost) regardless of
atmospheric conditions.
additional 2 cents
Bryan Jones
> > On the prop. This is very easy to accomplish and requires only a hex
>key
> > wrench of the appropriate size and an ignition wrench for the jam nut.
>This
> > procedure is covered in the Hartzell manual 115N Rev 7 Page 4-4 thru
>4-5
>(for
> > their common non-feathering props) and
> > Page 4-6 thru 4-7 (for their feathering props).
> >
> > Basically, to reduce max rpm you loosen the jam nut slightly and hold it
> > from turning with the ignition wrench. Then turn the Allen screw
>clockwise (in)
> > and hold it from turning as you retighten the jam nut. Torque values
>are
> > all listed in the procedure.
> >
> > GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
>
>
>GV, my understanding is that the only time to set the pitch stops on the
>prop hub is for adjusting static (aircraft stationary) rpm. Once you're in
>flight the governor controls everything so long as the pitch stops allow
>enough travel.
>
>Randy Lervold
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Dale,
I don't know about the 6, maybe the aileron is hinged differently. But for
the 7 and 8 this works. I drilled a no. 30 hole in the aileron hinge bracket
very accurately by sliding the hinge pin over to the bracket and marking the
location on the bracket. The hinge pin needs to be about an inch or so
longer than the hinge to do this, long enough to reach within about 1/8 inch of
the aileron bracket. Then put about a 12 degree bend where the pin exits the
hinge so that it misses the hole about 1/4 inch. (I said 1/8 inch before,
its probably more like 1/4 inch.) It is hard enough to make it start with a
pair of pliers, it could never start by itself.
Its funny how everyone thinks they have the perfect solution! I like this
method at this place on the airplane. I would be leery of anything that could
loosen up and fall off. Safety wire is another good way to retain hinge
pins. I use safety wire on the gear leg fairings.
The pins that retain my top cowl to the firewall kept working partway out.
The latest fix was to bend a 1/4 inch eye in each pin and use a cable tie to
tie them together. This is just inside the oil door. We'll see how that
works out.
Regards,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying -- sometimes I sure envy you guys in the warmer climates.)
In a message dated 2/11/05 12:19:05 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
DWENSING@aol.com writes:
In a message dated 2/10/05 11:58:52 PM Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
> Just bend the last inch of the flap hinge pin so that it misses the hole
by
>
> about 1/8 inch. It will not be able to start itself into the hole, but
you
>
> can reach up with a pair of pliers and start it through. That's all I
have
>
> keeping my flap pin in place.
>
>
Dan,
Tried that but the aileron hinge bracket hits the flap hinge pin when the
aileron is in the up position. At least on the 6 it does.
Dale Ensing
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Phil
Tell us more about the Total Seal piston rings. Are these the type which
have no end gap? Where do you get them and how much?
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
><sisson@consolidated.net>
>
>sarg314 wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
> >
> >I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator.
> >Are there any such?
> >
> >Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a
> >little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on
> >the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need to
> >clean it off?
> >--
> >Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
> >
> >
> >_
> >
>Tom,
> I dont have one at this time. Except for inverted flight, most of the
>oil vapor is going to come from blo-by gas. I think a tight set of rings
>will have minimum blo-by. I have Total Seal rings in my engine and I
>have practically zero blo- by. I just run a vent tube down and out made
>from sceet tube. it is about 1 inch. I dont have any oil on belly yet.
>If I wanted to take it inverted, I would add an inverted system but I
>wanted to have a little more room in the firewall area so I didnt put it
>on....
>
>There is another rv on the field that pipes this vent tube to a little
>bracket on top of one of the exhaust pipes, where it is burned or
>vaporized. He also doesnt seem to have any oil on belly. That seems like
>a niffty little way of doing it. There would be some oil dumped
>overboard after inverted flight. I dont know if this would ignite or go
>out as smoke.. I think if you plan on flying upside down, a seperator of
>some sort will be a must, or else you are going to dump a lot of oil. It
>seems like two drops of oil will cover an airplane.
>
>Phil
>
>do not archive
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Safety Notice - Verify Proper Flap Hinge Pin Installation |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Darwin N. Barrie" <ktlkrn@cox.net>
Another fix that I have seen several times is to cut two tabs hinge tabs from the
flap and two from the wing side in the center. Now make two hinge pins with
a 3/8th inch 90 degree bend on one end. Install from the center out. They can't
go anywhere!!! Also allows removal of the flap if necessary while the wing
is on the plane.
If anyone wants or needs a picture let me know off line.
Darwin N. Barrie
Chandler AZ
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>Another way to think of it... the ground (prop hub stop) adjustment will
>not "control" the prop rpm, it only sets the prop pitch angle stop. Set it
>one day, and the next it may be totally off due to variations in atmospheric
>conditions. The governor controls prop rpm (almost) regardless of
>atmospheric conditions.
>
>additional 2 cents
>
>Bryan Jones
>
But, we don't want the fine pitch stop set any finer than necessary.
If we ever have an engine failure, the prop will go to the fine pitch
stop. The finer the fine pitch stop is set, the worse our glide
angle will be. This is assuming the prop is windmilling, and that we
don't have enough oil pressure from the windmilling engine to control
prop pitch, or the windmilling rpm is lower than the governor
setting, which would drive the prop to full fine as it tries to
govern.
I read some material from Hartzell that suggested that the fine pitch
stop should be set so that you don't quite get to max allowable rpm
during a full power static run-up. This means the prop fine pitch
stop is set as high as possible. As soon as the aircraft starts
moving forward, the rpm will increase to the governor setting, so we
aren't losing any take-off performance.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I dont have one on RV6A, nor Cherokee, Cherokee has newly rebuilt jugs, but throws
out more oil than the 600hr jugs RV, (150hp 320's) neither is enuf to make
it worth while to mess with a separator. One addl thing, The RV is aranged to
drip the oil on the Exaust which also helps. Charlie heathco
Message 8
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| Subject: | Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
> I read some material from Hartzell that suggested that the fine pitch
> stop should be set so that you don't quite get to max allowable rpm
> during a full power static run-up. This means the prop fine pitch
> stop is set as high as possible. As soon as the aircraft starts
> moving forward, the rpm will increase to the governor setting, so we
> aren't losing any take-off performance.
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Kevin, there is no such thing as a static full power runup on an RV, without
using rope. Even then, it is a little unclear just where to attach ropes,
there is a lot of thrust to deal with.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@excelgeo.com>
For gapless rings see:
http://www.totalseal.com/html/rings/gapless
Gary
Charlie Kuss wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
> Phil
> Tell us more about the Total Seal piston rings. Are these the type which
> have no end gap? Where do you get them and how much?
> Charlie Kuss
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
>><sisson@consolidated.net>
>>
>>sarg314 wrote:
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator.
>>>Are there any such?
>>>
>>>Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a
>>>little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on
>>>the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need to
>>>clean it off?
>>>--
>>>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>>>
>>>
>>>_
>>>
>>
>>Tom,
>> I dont have one at this time. Except for inverted flight, most of the
>>oil vapor is going to come from blo-by gas. I think a tight set of rings
>>will have minimum blo-by. I have Total Seal rings in my engine and I
>>have practically zero blo- by. I just run a vent tube down and out made
>
>>from sceet tube. it is about 1 inch. I dont have any oil on belly yet.
>
>>If I wanted to take it inverted, I would add an inverted system but I
>>wanted to have a little more room in the firewall area so I didnt put it
>>on....
>>
>>There is another rv on the field that pipes this vent tube to a little
>>bracket on top of one of the exhaust pipes, where it is burned or
>>vaporized. He also doesnt seem to have any oil on belly. That seems like
>>a niffty little way of doing it. There would be some oil dumped
>>overboard after inverted flight. I dont know if this would ignite or go
>>out as smoke.. I think if you plan on flying upside down, a seperator of
>>some sort will be a must, or else you are going to dump a lot of oil. It
>>seems like two drops of oil will cover an airplane.
>>
>>Phil
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
sarg314 wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator.
>Are there any such?
>
YUP!
>Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a
>little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on
>the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need to
>clean it off?
>
None. Well, it will collect dirt and stuff .... but not nearly as much
weight as the separator! :-P
I don't like them because they're just a cover-up for a problem (worn
rings). The best suggestion I've heard yet is to NOT connect the drain
back to the engine, but let it hold the crud 'till oil change. Returning
the crud to the engine caused me the biggest heartburn. For himoil
change was 50 hrs. I change mine every 25 hrs ...... I don't know if it
helps, but it's a cheap 'fix'.
Linn
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Weighty Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
In a message dated 2/11/05 3:44:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
rv6n6r@comcast.net writes:
> The weight penalty with my Hartzell CS prop is a factor
On some RVs it may be a plus factor as the extra weight forward allows more
weight in baggage area and still be within CG limits.
Dale Ensing
Message 12
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| Subject: | Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
??? you sure about that? It's not comfortable, but I can easliy run my
160-hp -8 up to full power on the ground.
If I were to tie mine down, it would be very easily done as it is a
conventional gear plane; tying off to the tailwheel spring. Don't your
tricycle planes have a tail tie down ring????
Bryan
do not archive
>Kevin, there is no such thing as a static full power runup on an RV,
>without
>using rope. Even then, it is a little unclear just where to attach ropes,
>there is a lot of thrust to deal with.
>
>Alex Peterson
>RV6-A 569 hours
>Maple Grove, MN
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Weighty Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
There are other, lighter, CS props to consider, MT and WhirlWind. Dont feel
locked into a Hartzell.
At 09:31 AM 2/11/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: DWENSING@aol.com
>
>In a message dated 2/11/05 3:44:01 AM Eastern Standard Time,
>rv6n6r@comcast.net writes:
>
>
> > The weight penalty with my Hartzell CS prop is a factor
>
>On some RVs it may be a plus factor as the extra weight forward allows more
>weight in baggage area and still be within CG limits.
>Dale Ensing
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
The only thing I would like to add is.....
Do you really want to drain the air/oil separator stuff back into your engine?
The gunky stuff that came out of my separator was a nasty mix of water, oil and
acidic combustion by-products. I collected the return drain from the separator
into a reservoir. The amount collected between oil changes was small and mostly
water. I don't want that "blow by" by-product garbage draining back into
the engine . The idea is to blow that stuff overboard not recycle it, in my opinion.
Do you need it at all?
If you have oil on the belly it could be coming in part from oil leaks under the
cowl. A healthy Lyc uses a Qt every 12-15 hours? Most oil is being burned and
goes out the exhaust and only a little out of the breather. Without an air/oil
separator, per Van's plan you can route a breather tube to exit near the exhaust.
The little amount of water and oil coming out the breather will burn off,
getting little breather oil on the belly.
As long as you keep you engine oil at 6 - 5.5 qt you should not have a big issue
with oil going out the breather. I am not planning a air/oil separator on my
new RV. It is simple, lighter, cheaper to delete it.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Denis Walsh <denis.walsh@comcast.net>
Here is a single data point. I have no separator. Seven years ago, I
installed a factory new 180 Lyc. It is now putting a little oil on the
belly, after 1400 hours of service, although the oil consumption has
not noticably increased yet. I would not bother with the separator on
a new or rebuilt engine. The other products of combustion are going to
be there on the belly, which requires a clean up every few months
anyway, and the oil has always been only a very minor part of the belly
grime problem for me.
Agree about the inverted (neg G) if you are going to abuse your body
and engine in that manner, then you need to take anti slobbering
measures.
I may install one later if the oil problem gets to the drip stage, but
not there yet.
One man's experience, one man's opinions. Hope it helps.
Denis
On Feb 11, 2005, at 2:25 AM, Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club
wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic
> Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
>
> sarg314 wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>>
>> I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator.
>> Are there any such?
>>
>> Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a
>> little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on
>> the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need
>> to
>> clean it off?
>> --
>> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>>
>>
>> _
>>
> Tom,
> I dont have one at this time. Except for inverted flight, most of the
> oil vapor is going to come from blo-by gas. I think a tight set of
> rings
> will have minimum blo-by. I have Total Seal rings in my engine and I
> have practically zero blo- by. I just run a vent tube down and out made
> from sceet tube. it is about 1 inch. I dont have any oil on belly yet.
> If I wanted to take it inverted, I would add an inverted system but I
> wanted to have a little more room in the firewall area so I didnt put
> it
> on....
>
> There is another rv on the field that pipes this vent tube to a little
> bracket on top of one of the exhaust pipes, where it is burned or
> vaporized. He also doesnt seem to have any oil on belly. That seems
> like
> a niffty little way of doing it. There would be some oil dumped
> overboard after inverted flight. I dont know if this would ignite or go
> out as smoke.. I think if you plan on flying upside down, a seperator
> of
> some sort will be a must, or else you are going to dump a lot of oil.
> It
> seems like two drops of oil will cover an airplane.
>
> Phil
>
> do not archive
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
> ??? you sure about that? It's not comfortable, but I can
> easliy run my
> 160-hp -8 up to full power on the ground.
>
> If I were to tie mine down, it would be very easily done as it is a
> conventional gear plane; tying off to the tailwheel spring.
> Don't your
> tricycle planes have a tail tie down ring????
>
> Bryan
Yes, but I guarantee you that it would bend it, it isn't very strong. The
static thrust is something on the order of 6-700 pounds. My tires will skid
on pavement at about 2300 - 2400 rpm - this is a C/S 180.
I should have qualified my original statement with C/S.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 17
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| Subject: | Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
At 7:59 -0600 11/2/05, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>
>>
>> I read some material from Hartzell that suggested that the fine pitch
>> stop should be set so that you don't quite get to max allowable rpm
>> during a full power static run-up. This means the prop fine pitch
>> stop is set as high as possible. As soon as the aircraft starts
>> moving forward, the rpm will increase to the governor setting, so we
>> aren't losing any take-off performance.
>> --
>> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>
>Kevin, there is no such thing as a static full power runup on an RV, without
>using rope. Even then, it is a little unclear just where to attach ropes,
>there is a lot of thrust to deal with.
Poor choice of words on my part. What you want, I believe, is that
if you apply full power at the start of the takeoff, you don't quite
get maximum rpm initially - say 25 to 50 rpm short of max rpm. As
the airspeed increases, the rpm increases, and you get to governing
rpm very shortly after you start the takeoff roll. I realize that
this all happens very quickly, and it may not be possible to pay that
much attention to the tach, while still flying the airplane. So you
would probably need someone else to keep an eagle eye on what the
tach does. And this all presupposes that you have an accurate (i.e.
calibrated) tachometer. If you haven't checked the accuracy of your
tach, it could easily be off by 50 to 100 rpm.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://go.phpwebhosting.com/~khorton/rv8/
Message 18
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| Subject: | Davtron Voltmeter |
--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Embree <rembree@sympatico.ca>
The display on my Davtron M303 voltmeter / outside air temperature gauge
has failed and I need to replace one of the plug in display units. I
contacted Davtron and they told me that a replacement unit would be
$30.00 plus postage. By the time that gets to Canada, it turns into $50
to $60 cdn.
I looked in my Digikey catalogue and LED numeric display units are
listed for around $5.00, however I can't find anything with similar
numbers.
Is there anyone familiar with these little numeric displays that could help?
I checked out the sockets by swapping the other units around and
everything else seems ok.
Numbers on one side are KW 115 G and 58774
Numbers on the other side are 9309
I took a few pictures and posted them HERE
<http://www.ontariorvators.org/Davtron.htm>.
http://www.ontariorvators.org/Davtron.htm
Thanks for any help you can provide.
Roger Embree
RV-4 C-GIRH
Alliston Ontario
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Davtron Voltmeter |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Roger,
Wamco Inc. has them. http://www.wamcoinc.com/index.htm
More specifically:
http://www.wamcoinc.com/Incandescent_Catalog/page12.htm
Dave
Roger Embree wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Embree <rembree@sympatico.ca>
>
>The display on my Davtron M303 voltmeter / outside air temperature gauge
>has failed and I need to replace one of the plug in display units. I
>contacted Davtron and they told me that a replacement unit would be
>$30.00 plus postage. By the time that gets to Canada, it turns into $50
>to $60 cdn.
>
>I looked in my Digikey catalogue and LED numeric display units are
>listed for around $5.00, however I can't find anything with similar
>numbers.
>
>Is there anyone familiar with these little numeric displays that could help?
>
>Numbers on one side are KW 115 G and 58774
>Numbers on the other side are 9309
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Just a point of exactitude. The oil mist is likely coalescing on the stainless
pot scrubbers, not condensing, though some light volatiles my condensation, the
primary oil collection is through coalescing the tiny droplets in the mist
into larger droplets that drain into the mini collection bottle or wherever its
routed.
Chuck
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
Fiveonepw@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Oil Air Separator
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 02/10/2005 3:50:38 PM Central Standard Time,
TravisHamblen@cox.net writes:
how does this improve the performance of the separator?
>>>
Oil mist from the crankcase vent condenses on the HUGE surface area provided
by the many strands of stainless steel of the pot scrubbers as the oily gases
flow through it, and slowly runs down to the bottom of the separator. (not
advisable to let this drain back into the sump- nasty stuff, could contain bad
materials such as water and combustion gas by-products!) I routinely drain at
least 2 or 3 tablespoons of oil from my separator at each 50 hour oil change.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips
Message 21
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| Subject: | Bolt hole not strait |
--> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
When drilling one of the holes holding down the
front of my horiz.stab,the hole came out not quite
strait.It is off by a few degrees.
Since it is a critical structural bolt,I am thinking
of fileing a slant on two washers and puting one on
each end of the bolt.
What have others done in this situation?
GEORGE H. INMAN
ghinman@mts.net
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Bolt hole not strait |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Albert Gardner" <spudnut@worldnet.att.net>
Unless there is an edge distance problem, I would be more inclined to drill
a better hole with a larger bolt.
Albert Gardner
RV-9A 872RV
Yuma, AZ
----- Original Message -----
From: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
Subject: RV-List: Bolt hole not strait
> --> RV-List message posted by: "George Inman" <ghinman@mts.net>
>
> When drilling one of the holes holding down the
> front of my horiz.stab,the hole came out not quite
> strait.It is off by a few degrees.
> Since it is a critical structural bolt,I am thinking
> of fileing a slant on two washers and puting one on
> each end of the bolt.
> What have others done in this situation?
>
> GEORGE H. INMAN
> ghinman@mts.net
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Bolt hole not strait |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Call and get factory recommendation. Don't trust the yahoos here!! ;)
I'd redrill and go to the next larger fastner if edge clearances were
sufficient. But again - ref the first sentence above.
Bryan
do not archive
> When drilling one of the holes holding down the
> front of my horiz.stab,the hole came out not quite
> strait.It is off by a few degrees.
> Since it is a critical structural bolt,I am thinking
> of fileing a slant on two washers and puting one on
> each end of the bolt.
> What have others done in this situation?
>
>GEORGE H. INMAN
>ghinman@mts.net
>
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Narco wiring harness- part needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Hello all,
I'm in need of a radio part and I'm hoping someone has one laying
around. I need Narco p/n P810, which is the D-sub connector for the
wiring harness on a NAV122 VOR/ILS unit. What I really need is the
sliding locking piece which attaches to the D-sub hood. If anyone has
one laying around, please contact me.
Thanks
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
do not archive
Message 25
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| Subject: | Harmonic Vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I recently installed a new Hartzel CS propeller on my 6A with an O-320. I
now have a significant harmonic buzz all through the cockpit only when I
pull the power back AND slow down to about 100kts. It takes the combination
of 100~120kts and 1900~2300 rpm. If I change either of the parameters I
don't get the buzz. I can not see any engine/cowl contact. Prop has been
balanced and I don't think it is the prop itself but obviously has something
to do with the prop since it did not do it before. Hartzel has been
responsive, they had one other RV report a similar problem but the owner
never contacted them again and they would like to know the answer also. Has
anyone seen this problem? Any good guess?
John Furey
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Pressure Recovery Wheel Pants |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" <jlisler@alltel.net>
I am beginning to install a set of Van's pressure recovery wheel pants on an
RV-4 and I cannot locate the instruction sheet that should have come with
the pants (if there was one). Does anyone have the instructions in a form
that can be e-mailed? Van's is sending a copy via USPS but that is a week
away.
Thanks,
Jerry Isler
RV4 N455J
Donalsonville, GA.
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Harmonic Vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi John,
In your email you say the "prop has been balanced". Do you mean that the
prop has been Dynamically balanced.
If dynamic balancing has been done you might look at having it double
checked by another technician.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RV-List: Harmonic Vibration
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> I recently installed a new Hartzel CS propeller on my 6A with an O-320. I
> now have a significant harmonic buzz all through the cockpit only when I
> pull the power back AND slow down to about 100kts. It takes the
> combination
> of 100~120kts and 1900~2300 rpm. If I change either of the parameters I
> don't get the buzz. I can not see any engine/cowl contact. Prop has been
> balanced and I don't think it is the prop itself but obviously has
> something
> to do with the prop since it did not do it before. Hartzel has been
> responsive, they had one other RV report a similar problem but the owner
> never contacted them again and they would like to know the answer also.
> Has
> anyone seen this problem? Any good guess?
>
> John Furey
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
For our partial power, & I do mean partial, ground run-ups we went to a tie
down in an open area of the ramp & used the chain wrapped & securely
attached to the tail wheel assembly. AND draped a 230# guy over the tail
area. Now this is with a 250HP IO540 in HRII N561FS.
BUT please be advised that RV-4's, -6's & -8's and HRII's HAVE (don't know
about "'A's") nosed over with the brakes set, power runup until the prop
gets a good bite, by then it's too late. Ding, Ding, Ding... THUMP. HRII
did not like being tied down & in rodeo terms it was an "8 second type ride"
on the tail. Do Not Archive. KABONG (GBA & GWB)
---- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Max PRM adjustment
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>> during a full power static run-up. This means the prop fine pitch
>> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
>
> Kevin, there is no such thing as a static full power runup on an RV,
> without
> using rope. Even then, it is a little unclear just where to attach ropes,
> there is a lot of thrust to deal with.
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Harmonic Vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
My airplane does that in that roughtly in that airspeed range, only it is
probably between 2100-2300 rpm. If I pull the power back, It only last for
a few moments. If i plan to fly in that range I pull the prop back to 2000
and it is gone.
Doug Rozendaal
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Subject: RV-List: Harmonic Vibration
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> I recently installed a new Hartzel CS propeller on my 6A with an O-320. I
> now have a significant harmonic buzz all through the cockpit only when I
> pull the power back AND slow down to about 100kts. It takes the
combination
> of 100~120kts and 1900~2300 rpm. If I change either of the parameters I
> don't get the buzz. I can not see any engine/cowl contact. Prop has been
> balanced and I don't think it is the prop itself but obviously has
something
> to do with the prop since it did not do it before. Hartzel has been
> responsive, they had one other RV report a similar problem but the owner
> never contacted them again and they would like to know the answer also.
Has
> anyone seen this problem? Any good guess?
>
> John Furey
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hello,
The design of the large aluminum oil separator and for that matter all the
separators I have seen to date (not many) seem to try to utilize centrifugal
force and gravity to separate the various components (Oil, moisture and
sludge!).
The design is essentially passive as there is no separate device driving a
rotor or what have you to create or forced separation to take place.
The design is a round container with the opposing inlet and outlet higher up
in the structure. The internal inlet tube's opening is supposed to extend
past the internal outlet tube's opening so as to discourage a direct exit
path for the gases.
In theory the incoming crankcases gases are intended to be circulated down
and then back up to find the outlet and escape. Both gravity and the
pulsating motion of the gases should cause heavier materials to drop out of
suspension and exit via the smaller drain outlet at the bottom.
With a low time engine there is not enough rate of flow-volume to create
much of a vortex that would centrifugaly separate out anything. In fact my
guess is that if an engine can wear to the point of having enough blow-by
volume to create a significant vortex in the larger volume separator
version/s, the operator should most likely remove the engine from service
for overhaul.
I think the improvement in performance reported by users by stuffing
stainless steel pot scrubbers inside is as others have suggested, a direct
result of adding thousands of surface area catch points for the heavier
materials to contact, adhere to and gravitate to the drain outlet.
Personally I would not allow the separated materials from theses devices to
return to the crank case under any circumstances. A drainable catch
container can be utilized or the drainings can be thrown onto a hot exhaust
pipe to be evaporated and hopefully burned off.
A whistle hole or two should be utilized in the breather tubing and care
should be taken with the placement of the outlet in relation to the external
airstream. Avoid the creation of signifigant negative air pressesure in the
crankase breather system.
I would think that the bottoms of most aircraft need cleaning from time to
time anyhow, oil residue or not. If oil is causing much extra effort bottom
scrubbing wize, there just might be a reason to look for leaks, examine the
breather system, Or open the wallet and clean it out a bit instead {[P-' !
Great flights, Greased landings, (not oiled) (;-)!
Jimin Kelowna
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator-subject Changing to Total Seal rings.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club" <sisson@consolidated.net>
Charlie Kuss wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
>
>Phil
> Tell us more about the Total Seal piston rings. Are these the type which
>have no end gap? Where do you get them and how much?
>Charlie Kuss
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Phil Sisson, Litchfield Aerobatic Club"
>><sisson@consolidated.net>
>>
>>sarg314 wrote:
>>
>>
>>
>>>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>>>
>>>I'd like to hear from some people who don't have an oil air separator.
>>>Are there any such?
>>>
>>>Not having one clearly saves a little weight and money and makes for a
>>>little less clutter under the cowl. Does the oil that gets dumped on
>>>the underside of the plane cause any real problem aside from the need to
>>>clean it off?
>>>--
>>>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>>>
>>>
>>>_
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>Tom,
>> I dont have one at this time. Except for inverted flight, most of the
>>oil vapor is going to come from blo-by gas. I think a tight set of rings
>>will have minimum blo-by. I have Total Seal rings in my engine and I
>>have practically zero blo- by. I just run a vent tube down and out made
>>
>>
>>from sceet tube. it is about 1 inch. I dont have any oil on belly yet.
>
>
>>If I wanted to take it inverted, I would add an inverted system but I
>>wanted to have a little more room in the firewall area so I didnt put it
>>on....
>>
>>There is another rv on the field that pipes this vent tube to a little
>>bracket on top of one of the exhaust pipes, where it is burned or
>>vaporized. He also doesnt seem to have any oil on belly. That seems like
>>a niffty little way of doing it. There would be some oil dumped
>>overboard after inverted flight. I dont know if this would ignite or go
>>out as smoke.. I think if you plan on flying upside down, a seperator of
>>some sort will be a must, or else you are going to dump a lot of oil. It
>>seems like two drops of oil will cover an airplane.
>>
>>Phil
>>
>>do not archive
>>
>>
I dont remember much about them, except they are a two piece gapless
compression ring. They are used in dune buggies and a lot of race cars.
I put them in this engine when I built it up for the Pitt's to use in
competition about 23 years ago.
It now has 405 hours on it and it is still strong. You can pull a blade
down and hold it for five minutes and turn it loose and it will go back
to where you pulled it from.
I don't know what the power increase is, but it is somewhat of an
increase. It probably brings the engine closer to its engineered design
power by eliminating the losses from compression leakage.
Go to their website posting from Gary Zilik, (thanks Gary) and you will
find out more from the company..
When I did this engine in 1982 (yes, I am still running it) I sent my
pistons to them and they machined one ring groove a little wider to
acept the Total Seal ring. I think it was the 2nd groove but someone
said now they do the top groove or the top and the second. There is only
one per piston in my engine. The original remaining ring acts like a
fire shield, I was told.
At the total seal factory, they take a ring and machine a shelf on it so
that another ring fits onto it. When installing them, you located the
gaps 180 apart and the two gaps are free to slide with expansion, and
the keep a tight seal. Some companies accomplish the same thing by
using overlapping, opposing tapers in place of the gap.
That is all I know.....
One of the very good things about Total Seal is your oil does not
contaminate and get dirty near as quickly as when the blo-by gases were
going to the crankcase and sump. I dont have an oil filter, but I bet my
oil is cleaner at fifty hours that most peoples oil is with a filter...
When I sent my pistons in, it cost me about $150 total cost. That was
along time ago and some of my kids went hungry on account of my toys.
Now I am sure the piston work would be at least a couple hundred and
the rings are probably another hundred..
Total Seal did tell me that there was no reason that I couldnt widen the
groove myself with a lathe (the two part composite ring is a little bit
wider) to save some cost.
They are really a helpful bunch of people, at least they were back in
1982..... plus at that time, the owner of the company was an active
member in the IAC.....
When I overhaul, I will put them back in just because of how clean the
oil runs... And like I said, there is some power increase. I mentioned
the fact that I had them installled when I ordered my Sensenich prop
because Sensenich was pretty critical about souped up engines. The guy
at Sensenich who is real knowledgable, personal, and friendly to
homebuilders (I dont recall his name) told me they would not present a
problem.
end of Total Seal.......... Next someone mentioned a "drip" fitting
..... That is what I was trying to say that one of the other RV's has
here. It is very neat and simple. But as I said, I wouldn't go this way
if I were going to do acro, When inverted that breather line will fill
with oil and it will dump it somewhere soon as you are up-right....
When this engine was on the Pitt's, I have came in from doing a sequence
and puked a 1/2 pint of oil out the breather tube. Keep in mind that
most of the oil was drained back into the sump, this was just oil that
couldnt be returned fast enough... This oil with a competition oil
system is not highly contaminated like blo-by is. Most of the blo-by
will go on out the breather. much of that oil is reclaimed from the many
change overs from upright to inverted.
phil in Illinois
I was out flying a little today. RV's sure are fun....... Sure wish I
had the time flown off it. It sure is Ugly with no paint on it..... No
seats in it yet either but a boat life preserver works just fine.....
do not archive.....
Message 32
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Edward Cole" <edwardmcole@comcast.net>
Is anyone using the Avmap EKP IV ? Care to share your opinions?
Ed Cole
RV6A N2169D Flying
Cupertino, CA
Message 33
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| Subject: | Harmonic Vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
Good to know I'm not the only one, and like you I can pass through that area
pretty quick and avoid it for most of the time. I am curious why most have
not run into this. I did have it dynamically balanced at the Hartzell
factory which is only an hour from me.
Thanks
John
Message 34
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| Subject: | Harmonic Vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>
> I recently installed a new Hartzel CS propeller on my 6A with
> an O-320. I now have a significant harmonic buzz all through
John, what do you mean by a "harmonic buzz"?
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 569 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Max PRM adjustment |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/11/2005 8:03:29 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
khorton01@rogers.com writes:
What you want, I believe, is that
if you apply full power at the start of the takeoff, you don't quite
get maximum rpm initially - say 25 to 50 rpm short of max rpm. As
the airspeed increases, the rpm increases, and you get to governing
rpm very shortly after you start the takeoff roll. I realize that
this all happens very quickly, and it may not be possible to pay that
much attention to the tach, while still flying the airplane. So you
would probably need someone else to keep an eagle eye on what the
tach does.
=======================================
I have the VM1000 and it automatically captures the high and low values of
the flight for later read back on the ground. Since I have adjusted my c/s
prop low pitch stop in the early phases of testing, rpm always limits at 2650
under all flight conditions.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Oil Air Separator |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/11/2005 11:01:06 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
cjensen@dts9000.com writes:
Just a point of exactitude. The oil mist is likely coalescing on the
stainless pot scrubbers, not condensing,
==============================
Right you are. I stand corrected.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: E-mags/P-mags |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
I just received my two P-mags today and I'm anxious to get them installed,
starting this weekend. They are truly things of beauty. I will be taking
digital photos of the installation and will advise the list on how they perform
just as soon as I can. I have S/N 131 and 132 and ordered them back in
October of 2004.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
Message 38
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| Subject: | Re: Harmonic Vibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Doug
What motor do you have?
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Harmonic Vibration
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
>
> My airplane does that in that roughtly in that airspeed range, only it is
> probably between 2100-2300 rpm. If I pull the power back, It only last
> for
> a few moments. If i plan to fly in that range I pull the prop back to
> 2000
> and it is gone.
>
> Doug Rozendaal
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Harmonic Vibration
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
>>
>> I recently installed a new Hartzel CS propeller on my 6A with an O-320. I
>> now have a significant harmonic buzz all through the cockpit only when I
>> pull the power back AND slow down to about 100kts. It takes the
> combination
>> of 100~120kts and 1900~2300 rpm. If I change either of the parameters I
>> don't get the buzz. I can not see any engine/cowl contact. Prop has been
>> balanced and I don't think it is the prop itself but obviously has
> something
>> to do with the prop since it did not do it before. Hartzel has been
>> responsive, they had one other RV report a similar problem but the owner
>> never contacted them again and they would like to know the answer also.
> Has
>> anyone seen this problem? Any good guess?
>>
>> John Furey
>>
>>
>
>
>
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