Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:12 AM - Re: Wiring hobbs to alt. (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
2. 04:35 AM - Re: How many clecos needed for wings? (David E. Nelson)
3. 05:16 AM - Re: Building an RV to sell (Doug Rozendaal)
4. 05:16 AM - Re: deburring dimpled holes (Rick Galati)
5. 05:28 AM - Re: How many clecos needed for wings? 02/17/2005 06:34:07 AM (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
6. 05:48 AM - Re: Building an RV to sell (DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com)
7. 05:56 AM - Re: Building an RV to sell (Kevin Williams)
8. 06:01 AM - Program Letter (Rick Galati)
9. 06:16 AM - Re: Starter Motor (John Furey)
10. 06:31 AM - RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE (Textor, Jack)
11. 07:21 AM - Re: RV8-List: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE ()
12. 07:56 AM - Re: Re: RV8-List: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE (Roger Embree)
13. 07:57 AM - RV 8 FOR SALE Links (Textor, Jack)
14. 07:59 AM - Re: RV-List Re: Hartzell CS props (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
15. 08:15 AM - Re: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE (Mickey Coggins)
16. 08:30 AM - Re: Program Letter (Mike Robertson)
17. 08:35 AM - Re: panel label engraving with back lighting (Mickey Coggins)
18. 09:09 AM - Re: RV8 and aerobatics (Neil McLeod)
19. 09:12 AM - Re: Program Letter (cgalley)
20. 10:16 AM - polished propeller (Dave Mader)
21. 10:56 AM - Re: hartzell CS props ()
22. 12:04 PM - Re: Mooney 201 prop (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
23. 01:19 PM - Re: polished propeller (Bob 1)
24. 01:38 PM - Re: polished propeller (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
25. 01:57 PM - Expermental Inspections (wskimike)
26. 02:08 PM - Re: Expermental Inspections (John Ammeter)
27. 02:29 PM - Re: Wiring hobbs to alt. (Dave Bristol)
28. 02:54 PM - Re: Expermental Inspections (cgalley)
29. 03:06 PM - Re: polished propeller (Jim Jewell)
30. 03:07 PM - Re: Expermental Inspections (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
31. 03:16 PM - Re: Building an RV to sell (Jim Jewell)
32. 05:39 PM - Re: polished propeller (Richard McCraw)
33. 07:13 PM - oil cooler hookup (sarg314)
34. 07:40 PM - Re: oil cooler hookup (Kyle Boatright)
35. 08:06 PM - Fuel Selector Valve - Left, Right, Both? (Tony Marshall)
36. 08:10 PM - Titanium Tie downs (Randy Simpson) (John Mcmahon)
37. 09:11 PM - Re: Fuel Selector Valve - Left, Right, Both? (Jerry Springer)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Wiring hobbs to alt. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Ahhh Ha!
OK I get that now. I did not know that the lamp lead went from hot when
running, to cold when not.
I thought it went only cold when not.
So the next logical ? is.... why do they bother putting it hot when
running when all it really needs to do to operate the lamp is pull
ground when not?
Probablly a ? for the 'letric' list but since we are here and on it
now....
Mike
Sooooo happy my lamp light tells me the master was left on!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
Subject: Re: RV-List: Wiring hobbs to alt.
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
When the alternator is alternating, the lamp terminal outputs a voltage
(9-10 volts on mine IIRC) but call it 12V for this discussion. When the
lamp is connected between this terminal and the buss (battery) which is
(12V +/-) also, it will not light. When the alternator shuts down, the
alternator lamp terminal goes to ground so the lamp now has 12V across
it and it lights. So, since the Hobbs wants a + voltage to work,
connecting it to the lamp terminal causes it to work when the alternator
is on line.
Dave
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
<mstewart@iss.net>
>
>Dave I don't see how this would work.
>With the engine running, this ground is open. This seems to be
backwards
>from what the hobbs would require. It would want closed when running
>right?
>Mike
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: new feature found with the alt. warning light
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
>
>
>In order to use this feature, the red light is usually connected from
>the idiot light wire (from the alternator) to the 12v buss, that way
>when the alternator is stopped, and that wire is essentially grounded,
>the light will light. You can also use that wire to run your Hobbs
meter
>
>since it puts out voltage only when the engine is running.
>
>Dave -6 So Cal
>EAA Technical Counselor
>
>Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
>>
>>
><mstewart@iss.net>
>
>
>>While testing my panel mounted alt. fail light, which is simply one
>>
>>
>wire
>
>
>>to the alternator which has built in an idiot warning light, I found
an
>>undocumented feature.
>>
>>While your master switch is on, and the alternator is not turning, the
>>light is on. It is the perfect "you left your master sw on you dope"
>>light.
>>
>>
>>This is with the Mitsubushi 60a alternator 3 plug.
>>
>>I am not exactly sure what this light would indicate in flight if the
>>light came on though?
>>
>>Not charging? No field? I dunno.
>>
>>
>>Mike
>>
>>Do not archive
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: How many clecos needed for wings? |
02/17/2005 06:34:07 AM,
Serialize by Router on MailServ59-US/AUS/H/NIC(Release 6.5.1|January 21,
2004) at
02/17/2005 06:34:09 AM,
Serialize complete at 02/17/2005 06:34:09 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson" <david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Richard,
I use a paint can gallons worth of clecos for a single wing. Don't know how
many that is though. That covers the entire wing including the tank. I tend to
go a little cleco crazy with 2 blanks between clecos. So, I'd guess you need a
gallon since I use 2x the clecos/wing but you're doing 2x wings.
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A - Right wing/tank
On Wed, 16 Feb 2005, Richard Scott wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott <rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
>
>
>> Got mixed messages from the RV9 list on this, so I am asking everyone else:
>
>> Doing both slow build wings at the same time. How many 3/32 clecos do I
>> need? I have 400. Is that enough? I'll probably put one in about every
>> 4th hole.
>>
>> Richard Scott
> RV-9 Wings
>
>
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ ** ~~
time, then break it again.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Building an RV to sell |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I am not a builder, I am a buyer and I have bought 2 RV's, and I will
probably buy another in a few years. (rocket I hope!!!!!)
My recommendation would be this. What ever model you build, build it as
much like a 'store bought' airplane as possible. Simple standard systems.
You do not have to load it up, but leave the options open.
For instance, punch the panel for a standard sixpack and install a standard
radio rack with some room for expansion. Leave extra room for circuit
breakers and switches for expansion.
Paint it a neutral base coat color and put vinyl trim on it so it can be
easily changed.
If you don't put a C/S on it, put an engine/cowl on it which will accept a
C/S prop. Put a throttle quadrant on it that can be easily upgraded.
You may get it sold before it is finished and then you can finish to order,
but if you don't it gives your buyer as many options as possible.
Tailwinds,
Doug Rozendaal
Message 4
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| Subject: | re: deburring dimpled holes |
--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Some people tend to obsess over this perennial issue. Do what untold numbers
of production inspectors and even what some suggest Van does......run your
fingers over the holes. If it feels unduly rough or worse, snags...deburr it.
Item: On the combat aircraft production line, when a worker was overly agressive
and deburred a close tolerance bolt hole a bit too deep resulting in a slight
countersink condition, in some cases engineering would have the hole brought
up to the next size! Admittedly, the quality standards for a hole to be filled
with
a solid rivet are more forgiving. Bottom line...even if the hole is to be dimpled,
deburr as required.
Rick Galati RV-6A "Darla"
Should holes that are going to be dimpled be deburred first? I thought all holes
should be deburred after drilling. However, in "Standard Aircraft Handbook"
by Larry Reithmaier I find it says "Deburring shall not be prerformed on predrilled
holes that are to be subsequently form countersunk."
So what's wrong with deburring and dimpling? Is this inviting cracks to form? Do
I need to replace the parts where I've done this?
Harold
Message 5
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| Subject: | How many clecos needed for wings? 02/17/2005 06:34:07 AM |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
With a matched hole wing, I did mine with at most 100. Which id say was
about 3/4 of my coffee can.
With out matched hole, it was 300ish.
Mike
6A flying
S8 FWF
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David E. Nelson
Subject: Re: RV-List: How many clecos needed for wings? 02/17/2005
06:34:07 AM, Serialize by Router on MailServ59-US/AUS/H/NIC(Release
6.5.1|January 21, 2004) at 02/17/2005 06:34:09 AM, Serialize complete at
02/17/2005 06:34:09 AM
--> RV-List message posted by: "David E. Nelson"
<david.nelson@pobox.com>
Hi Richard,
I use a paint can gallons worth of clecos for a single wing. Don't know
how
many that is though. That covers the entire wing including the tank. I
tend to
go a little cleco crazy with 2 blanks between clecos. So, I'd guess you
need a
gallon since I use 2x the clecos/wing but you're doing 2x wings.
Regards,
/\/elson
Austin, TX
RV-7A - Right wing/tank
On Wed, 16 Feb 2005, Richard Scott wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Scott
<rscott@cascadeaccess.com>
>
>
>> Got mixed messages from the RV9 list on this, so I am asking everyone
else:
>
>> Doing both slow build wings at the same time. How many 3/32 clecos
do I
>> need? I have 400. Is that enough? I'll probably put one in about
every
>> 4th hole.
>>
>> Richard Scott
> RV-9 Wings
>
>
--
~~ ** ~~ If you didn't learn anything when you broke it the 1st ~~ **
~~
time, then break it again.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Building an RV to sell |
--> RV-List message posted by: DOUGPFLYRV@aol.com
Scott, I agree with Doug Rozendaal. I am not a builder and have purchased 3
RV's....6A, 8 and currently flying a 7. I look for something that is set up
for IFR or easily upgraded. The 6A was upgraded to a G430.
The 8 and 7 both were already equipped and current for IFR. Currently have a
partner A&P that is building us a 7A with D-10, CNX-80 and A/P. Will fly
that until I can buy a 10. A standard 6 pack panel is a biggy for me. So many
of
them are a "shotgun panel".....stuff all over the place. I always want 180 &
CS.
Have fun.
Doug Preston
RV7 N731RV
BHM
DO NOT ARCHIVE
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Building an RV to sell |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
I'm very curious as to what the liability issues are with selling your own
homebuilt? After all it is experimental, can a buyer expect the same
reliability and standards that he can from a factory built? Does buyer be
ware apply to experimental aircraft sales? In short, if I sell my
experimental plane and I do the used car bit i.e. "sold as is were is, buyer
beware" ect. And that plane crashes do to my mess up in construction either
through my inexperience or gross neglect can I loose my house ext in a law
suit?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
>
> I recently finished an RV6A and I miss the building process. Don't get me
> wrong, I do love to fly it and I am looking forward to going places in
it.
> But, I do love the building part as well and having done it once and
> having
> all the tools and a place to do it a second one will go much faster.
>
> I am trying to get a feel for what the market looks like for these
things.
> I
> talked to Vans and they indicated that the 7 is the best seller. I have
> noticed their are a lot of 8's for sell at prices around 100k. I have
also
> noticed the lack of 7's for sell as well. Is there a market for the 7's?
I
> know the issues with liabilities as the archives are full but I believe
> that
> if you build it right you won't have any problems. So my question is two
> fold. Is there a market and which plane to build? Right now I am leaning
> towards a 7A, 180hp w/CS prop and an IFR panel. But I could be wrong....
>
> Looking forward to input.
>
> Scott
> RV6A Flying
> Do not archive
>
>
>
Message 8
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
Listers,
My RV-6A is ready for flight short of an airworthiness certificate. I am fortunate
to have a DAR nearby who is familiar with my work and has been gently prodding
me to get the paperwork started. Truth be told, all manner of paperwork
bores me to tears. I'd rather smash a thousand rivets than fill out one form.
He tells me the first thing I should do is get him a "program letter." What
is this thing called a program letter? Also, he says I need to run an AD check
on the factory new Lycoming installed. How do I go about that? Do I have to
develop a builders log.....other than a thousand pictures and invoices, in 4
1/2 years I did not log any construction time. How about an operators manual...do
I have to develop that also?
Rick Galati RV-6A N307R assigned "Darla"
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
If you check the archives there should be info about the wrong gear and
starter causing expensive damage. Lycoming actually shipped some that way.
By the way, I have a Prestolite starter for sale, 149t, Like New $295
John Furey
RV6A
Message 10
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| Subject: | RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
Hello all,
Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing
kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to
complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the
progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete,
one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are
done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost
$7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can
be seen at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing
pictures are at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan
to keep the tools.
Best regards to all!
Jack
Jack Textor
Vice President
Palmer Group
515-225-7000
www.thepalmergroup.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | RE: RV8-List: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE |
--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
YOU SHOULD NOTE THAT YOUR LINKS DO NOT WORK.
Bud Silvers
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Textor, Jack
Subject: RV8-List: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE
--> RV8-List message posted by: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
Hello all,
Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing
kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to
complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the
progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete,
one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are
done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost
$7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can
be seen at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing
pictures are at
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan
to keep the tools.
Best regards to all!
Jack
Jack Textor
Vice President
Palmer Group
515-225-7000
www.thepalmergroup.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RE: RV8-List: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE |
--> RV-List message posted by: Roger Embree <rembree@sympatico.ca>
Try this link.
http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList.cfm?Menu=PhotoGallery
scroll down to about 11 from the bottom
RE
flynlow@usaviator.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
>YOU SHOULD NOTE THAT YOUR LINKS DO NOT WORK.
>
>Bud Silvers
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | RV 8 FOR SALE Links |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
Thanks for the note on the links. I tried them and they seemed to work.
I have the pictures posted on www.mykitplane.com
<http://www.mykitplane.com/> under Jack Textor photo albums. Please
try that. Thanks!
Jack
Do not archive
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Re: Hartzell CS props |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
The original post that George is referring was written to one person on the
RV-list. I forgot to change the Send To: address to that persons address.
I apologize for that. I do not sell on the list.
I do post the occasional advertisement about RV related new events.
I get the digest form of the RV-list, so my responses may seem a little slow.
This seems like a good time to not answer the question directly.
MT Propeller has never had a blade separation from one of their propellers.
Can Hartzell say the same?
BTW, I just recently found out that Eric Greindl will be out of the office
at MT Propeller until 28 February, and there is no answering machine on his
phone.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
My father-in-law was very astute about people. One day he gave me the
following advice. "Never argue with a true believer." :-)
In a message dated 02/17/2005 12:05:43 AM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Time: 12:17:19 PM PST US
From: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Re: hartzell CS props
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
The original post was about selling a MT prop, model MTV15, for use on a
parallel
valve 180hp (I)O-360 Lycoming. The MTV15 is essentially MT's version of a
2 bladed metal prop, equivalent to a Hartzell C2YK . The question was if the
MTV15 was tested with HC pistons, electronic ignition and FADEC, like
Hartzell
has done.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV 8 Wing & Empennage FOR SALE |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Stick an = between the ID and the 153 and it will work.
Not sure who or what is stripping that out.
Mickey
Textor, Jack wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
>
> Hello all,
>
> Wanted you to know I have decided to sell my RV8 empennage and wing
> kits. I have been busy at work and finances just won't allow me to
> complete it as fast as I would like to. The attached file details the
> progress. Workmanship is very good, empennage is basically complete,
> one wing is ready to close, the other is ready to skin, and tanks are
> done. To purchase the two kits and accessories today it would cost
> $7800. I will consider serious offers. Pictures of the empennage can
> be seen at
> http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID153. Wing
> pictures are at
> http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID156. I plan
> to keep the tools.
>
> Best regards to all!
>
> Jack
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Rick,
Give me a mailing address off-line and I will send you a certification
packett that will help you get going.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
Do Not Archive
>From: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Program Letter
>Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 05:58:42 -0800 (PST)
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
>Listers,
>
>My RV-6A is ready for flight short of an airworthiness certificate. I am
>fortunate to have a DAR nearby who is familiar with my work and has been
>gently prodding me to get the paperwork started. Truth be told, all manner
>of paperwork bores me to tears. I'd rather smash a thousand rivets than
>fill out one form. He tells me the first thing I should do is get him a
>"program letter." What is this thing called a program letter? Also, he
>says I need to run an AD check on the factory new Lycoming installed. How
>do I go about that? Do I have to develop a builders log.....other than a
>thousand pictures and invoices, in 4 1/2 years I did not log any
>construction time. How about an operators manual...do I have to develop
>that also?
>
>Rick Galati RV-6A N307R assigned "Darla"
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: panel label engraving with back lighting |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
Try these guys:
http://www.aircraftsimulators.com/
Mickey
Wayne Pedersen wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Pedersen" <wayne@pedersentransport.com>
>
> Looking for a supplier that has panel labels that are engravable and then a
> light(s) inserted into back of plastic. This little lite would illuminate
> all areas that are engraved.
>
> Thanks
>
> Wayne
> -7a panel
>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 18
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| Subject: | RV8 and aerobatics |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
Don't forget to add 2 parachutes at approximately 15 lbs ea. And check the
weight and balance as well since it is often different for aerobatics, at
least it is in my 7.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of lucky
Subject: Re: RV-List: RV8 and aerobatics
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
go to www.rvproject.com
and find the weight and balance link if the link below doesn't work.
http://rvproject.com/wab/wab.jsp?average=true&aircraftModelId=7
If i put on two 215 pound people and 15 gallons of gas it computes that the
Aerobatic gross weight (1555.56) is exceeded by 63.49 pounds. Starts off
assuming empty weight of 1099 pounds. So your friend would be right if your
plane came out what Dan's program considers to be an average RV8. The
moment arm is right at the aft end too.
Two 200 pounders would still be over but
Aerobatic gross weight (1555.56) is exceeded by 33.49 pounds and bring the
arms in almost an inch.
lucky
> --> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
> Hello;
>
> I am beginning construction of an RV8. A friend told me this morning that
it
> is not possible to do loops in an RV8 with 2 people on board. Is this
true?
> I will be flying with an IO 360 A1A. Myself and passenger will each weigh
> 210-225. Let me know what you all think. Thanks
>
> Bud Silvers
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Program Letter |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
There is also a very good link at
http://members.eaa.org/home/homebuilders/registering/register.html
That walks you thru the process with all the forms and the packet that Mike
talks about.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Program Letter
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
>
> Rick,
>
> Give me a mailing address off-line and I will send you a certification
> packett that will help you get going.
>
> Mike Robertson
> Das Fed
>
> Do Not Archive
>
> >From: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >Subject: RV-List: Program Letter
> >Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2005 05:58:42 -0800 (PST)
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
> >
> >Listers,
> >
> >My RV-6A is ready for flight short of an airworthiness certificate. I am
> >fortunate to have a DAR nearby who is familiar with my work and has been
> >gently prodding me to get the paperwork started. Truth be told, all
manner
> >of paperwork bores me to tears. I'd rather smash a thousand rivets than
> >fill out one form. He tells me the first thing I should do is get him a
> >"program letter." What is this thing called a program letter? Also, he
> >says I need to run an AD check on the factory new Lycoming installed.
How
> >do I go about that? Do I have to develop a builders log.....other than a
> >thousand pictures and invoices, in 4 1/2 years I did not log any
> >construction time. How about an operators manual...do I have to develop
> >that also?
> >
> >Rick Galati RV-6A N307R assigned "Darla"
> >
> >
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | polished propeller |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Has anyone out there ever polished their propeller. Taking it
from the gray factory color to shiny mirror finish? Any reason
not too, other than the ridiculous amount of work?
Dave Mader
2nd 6
Sheridan, Wy
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: hartzell CS props |
--> RV-List message posted by: <gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
> Another restriction of the BF prop is max RPM after take off, 2600. So you
speed freaks > wont like that.
Scott:
You are right, the limitation is reducing to 2600rpm, after take-off. You are also
right that for *racing this might not be the best for competition, but the
difference in speed between 2600 and 2700 is small, about 1-1.5 mph.
Since the Hartzell Blended Airfoil at ** 2500rpm is 2 mph to 8 mph faster than
the MT, Whirlwind and Aerocomposite, this is not a big factor.
** The RVator, 1st issue, 2004, pg 5, test of 8 prop's at 8,500', full throt, 2500
rpm.
Hartzell C2YR (2 metal blade) = 208.9
Whirlwind 200RV (2 comp blade) = 206.9
Whirlwind 200C (2 comp blade) = 205.6
Hartzell C2YK (2 metal blade) = 205.4
Aerocomposite ((2 comp blade) = 204.6
Whrilwind 150 (3 comp blade) = 201.9
MT 12B (3 wood / comp blade) = 200.7
Sensenich 72FM (fixed 2blade) = 207.9 (1)
*As far as racing, pilots often exceed limits for short periods to race. (1) Interesting,
a fixed pitch at 2730rpm was 210.9 mph, 2500rpm / 207.9mph, as fast
or faster than a C/S prop? So race fans does this mean you should have a fixed
pitch prop? Not exactly, but a well selected fixed prop can achieve equivalent
top speed as a constant speed prop, in one flight condition. If you are willing
to over rev you can actually be faster than a RPM limited c/s prop. Most
of us however are not running around at 2730 rpm, and fixed prop speed will be
at expense of T/o, climb and normal cruise efficiency. With that said the fixed
Sensenich props are pretty awesome and a great choice / alternative. I am
amazed at how well they perform, and I am a C/S prop fan.
The Hartzell C2YK is "certified" to 2900 rpm. A common race trick is to over rev
the engine. Dave Anders turns his Hartzell C2YR over 2900 rpm on his +250 MPH
RV-4. Those little formula Reno racers are turning their O-200 Continentals
up to 4000 rpm! So the fast "racing" RV's often run their engines beyond 2700
rpm. With a constant speed prop you need to adjust the governor limit RPM to
allow this. A fixed prop is sometimes faster because of the ability to over rev.
As an experimental you can turn as fast as you can. For every 100 rpm is worth
about 3 hp. I am not advocating this exceeding RPM limits, but the above 2600
rpm limit after T/o is not a real factor, for normal operations. Also, I
am not suggesting or recommending anyone exceed any limits of their equipment
BTW. Although it is often done in racing. The affects of over reving the engine
is another issue.
Cheers George
---------------------------------
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Mooney 201 prop |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/14/05 1:49:44 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
kshannon@seanet.com writes:
Does anyone have a McCauley B2D34C214A (Mooney 201) on an RV? I have an
opportunity to buy a used one for my -8 / IO360A1B6 and wondering what
the experiences of the RV world have been. Thanks in advance for any
input
Kevin Shannon
Kevin,
I looked at installing a McCauley prop on my RV-7A before finally buying a
Hartzell from Van's. I think the offset from the engine is different, and the
spinner from Van's won't work without extra work. It will be a non-standard
RV. That's why I gave up.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
N766DH (Flying since July)
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: polished propeller |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
> Has anyone out there ever polished their propeller. Taking it
> from the gray factory color to shiny mirror finish? Any reason
> not too, other than the ridiculous amount of work?
>
> Dave Mader
> 2nd 6
> Sheridan, Wy
==============================
Dunno fer sure, but....
I've read where it technically makes the prop UNAIRWORTHY by FAA standards.
Bob
Message 24
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| Subject: | polished propeller |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Subject: RV-List: polished propeller
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
Has anyone out there ever polished their propeller. Taking it from the
gray factory color to shiny mirror finish? Any reason not too, other
than the ridiculous amount of work?
Dave Mader
2nd 6
Sheridan, Wy
Dave: There are at least a couple of considerations. Unlike alclad
sheet metal, propeller metal has no anticorrosion characteristics. In
your climate that may not be of much concern but if you venture into a
maritime climate surface corrosion occurs very quickly. I had my
Sensenich turn white overnight. It seemed ok (although I really didn't
check it) when I parked the -4 but the next day it did not. I cleaned
it then but bringing back the polish was a real bear. The other point
is that if you polish the face (as I did) flying in certain aspects to
the sun is similar to flying in the fog. Visibility through the prop
disc is significantly impaired. By the way, the white substance was
salt. Very tasty but not a good coating for a prop.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 25
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|
| Subject: | Expermental Inspections |
--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
I know I have to have a DAR inspect to get an airworthiness certificate, but my
question is; Do I have to get in-process inspections because I'm a 25 year A&P
with extensive structural experience? Would it be advisable to get the inspections
since this is my first RV built? How much charge is associated with the
inspections?
Mike
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Expermental Inspections |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Ammeter <jammeter@comcast.net>
On Thu, 17 Feb 2005 15:53:10 -0600, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
>
>I know I have to have a DAR inspect to get an airworthiness certificate, but my
question is; Do I have to get in-process inspections because I'm a 25 year A&P
with extensive structural experience? Would it be advisable to get the inspections
since this is my first RV built? How much charge is associated with the
inspections?
>
>Mike
>
No
Yes
Coffee and donuts would be nice.
Inspections during construction aren't mandatory but are a
good idea, anyway. Ask your local Tech Counselor to look
your project over. I used to wear that hat and usually
would make the first visit when the empennage was ready to
close. Second was when the first wing was ready to close
and third when the fuselage was almost done. Fourth was, of
course, just before flight.
There's no reason you couldn't have two or more TC's check
out your plane. Also, any friends that may have built an RV
or even any other plane would be nice....
The more people that check it out the less chance you might
be taking off with reversed controls or worse.
John Ammeter
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: Wiring hobbs to alt. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <bj034@lafn.org>
Because "hot" is what an alternator does. That's about ALL it does. It
doesn't actually "switch" to ground, it's just that when it's not
putting out a voltage, it looks like a ground to the light bulb. It's
the easy, cheap, "natural" way to do it.
Dave
Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta) wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
>
>Ahhh Ha!
>OK I get that now. I did not know that the lamp lead went from hot when
>running, to cold when not.
>
>I thought it went only cold when not.
>So the next logical ? is.... why do they bother putting it hot when
>running when all it really needs to do to operate the lamp is pull
>ground when not?
>
>Probablly a ? for the 'letric' list but since we are here and on it
>now....
>
>Mike
>Sooooo happy my lamp light tells me the master was left on!
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Expermental Inspections |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
You only need the one final inspection but it is a wise idea and improves
your insurance rates if you get an EAA TC to inspect as you go along, Its
free. the FAA will give you the final inspection as well but you have to
plan ahead to get it done when you want it.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
Subject: RV-List: Expermental Inspections
> --> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <wskimike@mchsi.com>
>
> I know I have to have a DAR inspect to get an airworthiness certificate,
but my question is; Do I have to get in-process inspections because I'm a 25
year A&P with extensive structural experience? Would it be advisable to get
the inspections since this is my first RV built? How much charge is
associated with the inspections?
>
> Mike
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Re: polished propeller |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dave,
Another small consideration;
I'm told that ice likes bare aluminium flying sufaces somewhat better than
painted ones.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: polished propeller
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort"
> <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
>
>
> Subject: RV-List: polished propeller
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
> Has anyone out there ever polished their propeller. Taking it from the
> gray factory color to shiny mirror finish? Any reason not too, other
> than the ridiculous amount of work?
>
> Dave Mader
> 2nd 6
> Sheridan, Wy
>
> Dave: There are at least a couple of considerations. Unlike alclad
> sheet metal, propeller metal has no anticorrosion characteristics. In
> your climate that may not be of much concern but if you venture into a
> maritime climate surface corrosion occurs very quickly. I had my
> Sensenich turn white overnight. It seemed ok (although I really didn't
> check it) when I parked the -4 but the next day it did not. I cleaned
> it then but bringing back the polish was a real bear. The other point
> is that if you polish the face (as I did) flying in certain aspects to
> the sun is similar to flying in the fog. Visibility through the prop
> disc is significantly impaired. By the way, the white substance was
> salt. Very tasty but not a good coating for a prop.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
>
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Expermental Inspections |
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
improves your insurance rates with who? i thought the vanguard program was dead....
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley"
>
> You only need the one final inspection but it is a wise idea and improves
> your insurance rates if you get an EAA TC to inspect as you go along, Its
> free. the FAA will give you the final inspection as well but you have to
> plan ahead to get it done when you want it.
>
> Cy Galley
> EAA Safety Programs Editor
> Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "wskimike"
> To:
> Subject: RV-List: Expermental Inspections
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "wskimike"
> >
> > I know I have to have a DAR inspect to get an airworthiness certificate,
> but my question is; Do I have to get in-process inspections because I'm a 25
> year A&P with extensive structural experience? Would it be advisable to get
> the inspections since this is my first RV built? How much charge is
> associated with the inspections?
> >
> > Mike
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
improves your insurance rates with who? i thought the vanguard program was dead....
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <CGALLEY@QCBC.ORG>
You only need the one final inspection but it is a wise idea and improves
your insurance rates if you get an EAA TC to inspect as you go along, Its
free. the FAA will give you the final inspection as well but you have to
plan ahead to get it done when you want it.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "wskimike" <WSKIMIKE@MCHSI.COM>
To: <RV-LIST@MATRONICS.COM>
Subject: RV-List: Expermental Inspections
-- RV-List message posted by: "wskimike" <WSKIMIKE@MCHSI.COM>
I know I have to have a DAR inspect to get
an airworthiness certificate,
but my question is; Do I have to get in-process inspections because I'm a 25
year AP with extensive structural experience? Would it be advisable to get
the inspections since this is my first RV built? How much charge is
associated with the inspections?
Mike
http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Building an RV to sell |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Oh Cheeze,
Here we go again {[B-)!
Hi Kevin,
Please explore the archives for this topic. It is all in there At least
twice over.
Do you have any questions about anything else such as Primer or training
wheels, How about Slider versus Tip up. canopies?
Just kidding, ... almost {[;-) !
Jim in Kelowna do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Building an RV to sell
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Kevin Williams" <kevinsky18@hotmail.com>
>
> I'm very curious as to what the liability issues are with selling your own
> homebuilt? After all it is experimental, can a buyer expect the same
> reliability and standards that he can from a factory built? Does buyer be
> ware apply to experimental aircraft sales? In short, if I sell my
> experimental plane and I do the used car bit i.e. "sold as is were is,
> buyer
> beware" ect. And that plane crashes do to my mess up in construction
> either
> through my inexperience or gross neglect can I loose my house ext in a law
> suit?
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "james frierson" <tn3639@hotmail.com>
> >
> > I recently finished an RV6A and I miss the building process. Don't get
> > me
> > wrong, I do love to fly it and I am looking forward to going places in
> it.
> > But, I do love the building part as well and having done it once and
> > having
> > all the tools and a place to do it a second one will go much faster.
> >
> > I am trying to get a feel for what the market looks like for these
> things.
> > I
> > talked to Vans and they indicated that the 7 is the best seller. I have
> > noticed their are a lot of 8's for sell at prices around 100k. I have
> also
> > noticed the lack of 7's for sell as well. Is there a market for the 7's?
> I
> > know the issues with liabilities as the archives are full but I believe
> > that
> > if you build it right you won't have any problems. So my question is two
> > fold. Is there a market and which plane to build? Right now I am leaning
> > towards a 7A, 180hp w/CS prop and an IFR panel. But I could be wrong....
> >
> > Looking forward to input.
> >
> > Scott
> > RV6A Flying
> > Do not archive
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
Message 32
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| Subject: | polished propeller |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McCraw" <rmccraw@s4t.net>
There are airworthiness issues with CHROMED props. There was a lengthy
discussion of this issue in Aviation Consumer sometime in the past few
years.
Rick
RV-7 emp
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob 1
Subject: Re: RV-List: polished propeller
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob 1" <rv3a.1@comcast.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Mader" <davemader@bresnan.net>
>
> Has anyone out there ever polished their propeller. Taking it
> from the gray factory color to shiny mirror finish? Any reason
> not too, other than the ridiculous amount of work?
>
> Dave Mader
> 2nd 6
> Sheridan, Wy
==============================
Dunno fer sure, but....
I've read where it technically makes the prop UNAIRWORTHY by FAA standards.
Bob
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | oil cooler hookup |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I searched the archives for this info without much luck, though I think
I recall seeing it mentioned on the list. I am going to mount my oil
cooler behind cylinder number 4. The oil cooler in this type of
installation is mounted with the inlet and outlet in a vertical line.
My question is where to connect the input to the cooler - at the
cooler's top fitting or the bottom one? It seems to me that the input
to the cooler should be at the lower connection. It would be better at
driving air bubbles out of the cooler that way, though for I know it may
be a negligible effect. In on the bottom and out on the top matches the
connections on the engine better too.
Is this the way it's normally done?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: oil cooler hookup |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
Tom,
You're intuition is correct. Pump oil into the cooler at the bottom. That
minimizes the size of any air bubble that can form in the cooler.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: oil cooler hookup
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I searched the archives for this info without much luck, though I think
> I recall seeing it mentioned on the list. I am going to mount my oil
> cooler behind cylinder number 4. The oil cooler in this type of
> installation is mounted with the inlet and outlet in a vertical line.
> My question is where to connect the input to the cooler - at the
> cooler's top fitting or the bottom one? It seems to me that the input
> to the cooler should be at the lower connection. It would be better at
> driving air bubbles out of the cooler that way, though for I know it may
> be a negligible effect. In on the bottom and out on the top matches the
> connections on the engine better too.
>
> Is this the way it's normally done?
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>
>
>
Message 35
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| Subject: | Fuel Selector Valve - Left, Right, Both? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
I am assuming there is a good reason why we dont normally see RV fuel selector
valves that have a "both" position like commonly seen on various single engine
certified aircraft. What is the reason? I quickly looked through the archives
but didnt see anything.
Tony Marshall
RV6
Polson, MT
Message 36
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| Subject: | Titanium Tie downs (Randy Simpson) |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Mcmahon" <rv6@earthlink.net>
Does any one on the list know how I can reach
Randy Simpson Phone number..Ordered tie downs
month ago and not able to get in touch with him!!
Thanks
John McMahon (RV6 Painting)
Do no archive
Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Selector Valve - Left, Right, Both? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
Tony Marshall wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Tony Marshall" <tony@lambros.com>
>
>I am assuming there is a good reason why we dont normally see RV fuel selector
valves that have a "both" position like commonly seen on various single engine
certified aircraft. What is the reason? I quickly looked through the archives
but didnt see anything.
>
>Tony Marshall
>RV6
>Polson, MT
>
>
>
If one tank runs dry you will suck air from that tank on a low wing
aircraft
Jerry
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