Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:43 AM - Re: Landoll prop balancer (Jeff Point)
2. 04:04 AM - Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? (Andrew Douglas)
3. 05:10 AM - Re: Landoll prop balancer (toejam@cybertrails.com)
4. 05:13 AM - Re: oil filter ()
5. 05:35 AM - Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
6. 05:44 AM - Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
7. 05:59 AM - Re: oil filter (Ross S)
8. 06:38 AM - Re: oil filter ()
9. 06:48 AM - Re: oil filter (Scott VanArtsdalen)
10. 08:03 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 02/18/05 (Carlrayw@aol.com)
11. 08:05 AM - Simpson Tiedowns (Doyce Graham)
12. 08:16 AM - Re: oil filter (Charlie England)
13. 08:27 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 02/18/05 (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
14. 08:32 AM - Re: oil filter ()
15. 09:37 AM - Pneumatic Squeezer (Valovich, Paul)
16. 11:12 AM - Peltor ANR headset (HCRV6@aol.com)
17. 11:22 AM - Re: oil filter (Ed Holyoke)
18. 12:26 PM - Re: oil filter (Dan Checkoway)
19. 01:42 PM - Blast Tubes (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
20. 01:48 PM - rigging the rudder pedals (sarg314)
21. 01:59 PM - Re: rigging the rudder pedals (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
22. 02:09 PM - Re: rigging the rudder pedals (Kyle Boatright)
23. 02:39 PM - Re: oil filter (Dave Bristol)
24. 02:45 PM - Re: Blast Tubes (Jeff Point)
25. 03:21 PM - Re: Blast Tubes (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
26. 03:53 PM - Re: Blast Tubes (Rquinn1@aol.com)
27. 04:54 PM - Re Dressing a Scotch-Brite Wheel (rv6n6r@comcast.net)
28. 05:02 PM - Re: Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
29. 05:04 PM - Ray Allen Servo T2-10A (William Gill)
30. 05:57 PM - Re: Peltor ANR headset (Gary Zilik)
31. 05:59 PM - New pictures and movies (Ross S)
32. 07:31 PM - Re: New pictures and movies (D Paul Deits)
33. 07:53 PM - Re: New pictures and movies (Jerry Calvert)
34. 07:56 PM - Re: New pictures and movies (Bryan Jones)
35. 07:58 PM - Re: New pictures and movies (William Gill)
36. 07:58 PM - Re: New pictures and movies (cgalley)
37. 08:01 PM - Re: Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel (David Burton)
38. 08:06 PM - Re: New pictures and movies (Jerry Springer)
39. 08:56 PM - Re: New pictures and movies (Mike Robertson)
40. 08:58 PM - Certification packets (Mike Robertson)
41. 09:28 PM - Re: rigging the rudder pedals (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Landoll prop balancer |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I have one, but I do not want to sell it ;) I also have a O-360/
Sterba. As far as the cowl fit, are you refering to the Landol balancer
(solid steel ring) or the harmonic dampener (larger ring, fluid
filled)? The solid ring fit inside the cowl with no trimming. The
thicker harmonic dampener may or may not. I have the steel ring. The
Sterba is so smooth that you won't need the harmonic dampener, but the
13 or so lbs of the steel ring out on the nose helps the flywheel
effect, not to mention the CG. It was about $90 IIRC from Landol. I'd
get one if I were you.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
Cross-posting this because I got no response from the RV7 list...sorry if
it's inappropriate here (the airplane in question is a 7A):
====================================================
Because of a mistake I made that's almost too dumb to talk about (I didn't
notice some holes that were to be used to match drill some parts until after
I'd drilled holes in the wrong place), we now are very gun-shy when we see a
hole that seems to be extraneous, or don't find a hole that we think should
be there.
We've found a few of the former (holes with no apparent purpose) on the main
spar and its corresponding bulkhead assembly (F704).
Can anyone tell me why there are two holes on the wing spar web, at the
inboard end, next to the nutplates that receive the two small bolts which
pass through the F704G bars? Dwg 11, sector B9...you'll clearly see the two
trios of holes for the nutplates, but there are two additional holes there.
These holes line up with the rivet holes that you drill through the 704G
bars. However, as far as we can tell they have no purpose. We're absolutely
sure that the holes in the 704Gs get rivets in them, which hold 704G to the
704B aft bulkhead and 704D vertical. The manufactured heads of the rivets
are definitely meant to set into the 704G, which means that these holes in
the spar serve no purpose and can be ignored, right?
Or do they? We're looking at each other and constantly saying "it wouldn't
be there if there weren't a reason for it."
For that matter, if the bolts that go through the 704G bars and into the
spar terminate in nutplates that are riveted to the spar, then why the heck
are there bolt holes in the FORWARD 704D too? Same deal...they have no
apparent purpose.
Please help.
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Page 8-2
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Landoll prop balancer |
--> RV-List message posted by: toejam@cybertrails.com
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> I have one, but I do not want to sell it ;) I also have a O-360/
> Sterba. As far as the cowl fit, are you refering to the Landol balancer
> (solid steel ring) or the harmonic dampener (larger ring, fluid
> filled)? The solid ring fit inside the cowl with no trimming. The
> thicker harmonic dampener may or may not. I have the steel ring. The
> Sterba is so smooth that you won't need the harmonic dampener, but the
> 13 or so lbs of the steel ring out on the nose helps the flywheel
> effect, not to mention the CG. It was about $90 IIRC from Landol. I'd
> get one if I were you.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
>>Jeff:
Thanks for the heads up regarding the steel ring. I'll call Landoll and
get it.
Ivan McLaws
>>
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Hello Ross;
Thank you for your reply. I had a suspicion that the suction side was not a
good idea. I do not intend to use the inverted system on the RV8. I have
sold the Acrosport II and the inverted system goes with that airplane. Any
other ideas are appreciated. What about in line with the oil cooler? I like
the idea of a remote filter simply because it is cleaner to change the oil.
I can locate the filter where it would be easy to drain without getting oil
all over the back of the engine.
Bud Silvers
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross S
Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Hi Bud,
It is bad news to put a filter on the suction side of any pump, as it can
cause it to cavitate, and there goes your oil pressure. Also, you won't
have filtration when you are inverted with that setup.
-Ross
RV-7
www.experimentalair.com
>From: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: "Rv-List@Matronics. Com" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: oil filter
>Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 19:08:16 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
>Hello all;
>
>I am going to use an IO-360-A1A in an RV8. The engine was formerly in an
>Acrosport II. When in the Acrosport it had an inverted oil system. Here is
>a
>link to some pictures which explain this better than I can here:
>http://www.usaviator.net/inverted_oil.htm For my question I am referring to
>fittings D and E in the second picture. This system took oil from the sump
>and went to the inverted system before it went to the oil pump. There is a
>special fitting welded to the sump where the oil goes from the inverted
>system back to the pump, then of course through the engine. Currently I
>have
>these two fittings (D and E) looped together. What I am wondering is; If
>instead of looping them together can I run one line (from E) to a remote
>oil
>filter and another line from the said remote filter back to (D) the pump.
>Normally oil going through a filter is under pressure, this oil would be
>under a vacuum since it would be located before the pump. Would this be a
>problem? Does anyone know? Would you care to make any suggestions regarding
>this set up or alternatives to me? What about using the oil cooler lines
>and
>putting a filter in line there?
>
>Your kind attention to this is greatly appreciated.
>
>With kindest personal regards, to all, I shall remain,
>
>Sincerely,
>
>Bud Silvers
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Andrew,
Those holes are where you rivet F-704G bars to the web.
Dan Hopper
Walton IN
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since July 2004)
In a message dated 2/19/05 7:05:47 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
adouglas@optonline.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
Cross-posting this because I got no response from the RV7 list...sorry if
it's inappropriate here (the airplane in question is a 7A):
====================================================
Because of a mistake I made that's almost too dumb to talk about (I didn't
notice some holes that were to be used to match drill some parts until after
I'd drilled holes in the wrong place), we now are very gun-shy when we see a
hole that seems to be extraneous, or don't find a hole that we think should
be there.
We've found a few of the former (holes with no apparent purpose) on the main
spar and its corresponding bulkhead assembly (F704).
Can anyone tell me why there are two holes on the wing spar web, at the
inboard end, next to the nutplates that receive the two small bolts which
pass through the F704G bars? Dwg 11, sector B9...you'll clearly see the two
trios of holes for the nutplates, but there are two additional holes there.
These holes line up with the rivet holes that you drill through the 704G
bars. However, as far as we can tell they have no purpose. We're absolutely
sure that the holes in the 704Gs get rivets in them, which hold 704G to the
704B aft bulkhead and 704D vertical. The manufactured heads of the rivets
are definitely meant to set into the 704G, which means that these holes in
the spar serve no purpose and can be ignored, right?
Or do they? We're looking at each other and constantly saying "it wouldn't
be there if there weren't a reason for it."
For that matter, if the bolts that go through the 704G bars and into the
spar terminate in nutplates that are riveted to the spar, then why the heck
are there bolt holes in the FORWARD 704D too? Same deal...they have no
apparent purpose.
Please help.
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Page 8-2
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Oops, I spoke too soon, I think.
In sector D5 you can see that the vertical bar rivets to the aft center
section bulkhead. It looks like you could do it either way. I don't remember
this being a problem in my plane. Maybe the manual covers it in the text.
Sorry, if I am just confusing the issue.
Dan
In a message dated 2/19/05 8:36:44 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
Andrew,
Those holes are where you rivet F-704G bars to the web.
Dan Hopper
Walton IN
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying since July 2004)
In a message dated 2/19/05 7:05:47 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
adouglas@optonline.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
Cross-posting this because I got no response from the RV7 list...sorry if
it's inappropriate here (the airplane in question is a 7A):
====================================================
Because of a mistake I made that's almost too dumb to talk about (I didn't
notice some holes that were to be used to match drill some parts until after
I'd drilled holes in the wrong place), we now are very gun-shy when we see
a
hole that seems to be extraneous, or don't find a hole that we think should
be there.
We've found a few of the former (holes with no apparent purpose) on the main
spar and its corresponding bulkhead assembly (F704).
Can anyone tell me why there are two holes on the wing spar web, at the
inboard end, next to the nutplates that receive the two small bolts which
pass through the F704G bars? Dwg 11, sector B9...you'll clearly see the two
trios of holes for the nutplates, but there are two additional holes there.
These holes line up with the rivet holes that you drill through the 704G
bars. However, as far as we can tell they have no purpose. We're absolutely
sure that the holes in the 704Gs get rivets in them, which hold 704G to the
704B aft bulkhead and 704D vertical. The manufactured heads of the rivets
are definitely meant to set into the 704G, which means that these holes in
the spar serve no purpose and can be ignored, right?
Or do they? We're looking at each other and constantly saying "it wouldn't
be there if there weren't a reason for it."
For that matter, if the bolts that go through the 704G bars and into the
spar terminate in nutplates that are riveted to the spar, then why the heck
are there bolt holes in the FORWARD 704D too? Same deal...they have no
apparent purpose.
Please help.
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Page 8-2
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Hi Bud,
I may be getting in a bit over my head here, but I'll give you my take
anyway. The line to and from the cooler is a pressurized line and thus
would be better, but your engine likely has a vernatherm valve that when
functioning properly will keep the oil in your engine from going to the
cooler until it reaches a certain temperature (I think around 170 degrees
F). Also, you need to have a pressure relive valve that will bypass the
filter if it is blocked for any reason.
I initially had an oil sceen only on my engine and the first few oil changes
were a major pain in the arse, so I bought the casper labs 90 degree oil
filter adapter from Spuce. This mounts in place of the oil screen housing
and aims the filter up and out (about 10:30 looking at the back of the
engine).
I haven't changed the oil yet with it installed, but in theory, I should be
able to drain the hot oil out of the engine and poke a hole in the filter so
that is drains back down into the engine. Then come back later and unscrew
the empty filter with no mess.
If you want an opinion from someone who actually knows what they are talking
about, I would contact the folks at BPA (Barrett Performance Engines;
www.bpaengines.com) for a definative answer.
-Ross
>From: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
>Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2005 06:11:02 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
>Hello Ross;
>
>Thank you for your reply. I had a suspicion that the suction side was not a
>good idea. I do not intend to use the inverted system on the RV8. I have
>sold the Acrosport II and the inverted system goes with that airplane. Any
>other ideas are appreciated. What about in line with the oil cooler? I like
>the idea of a remote filter simply because it is cleaner to change the oil.
>I can locate the filter where it would be easy to drain without getting oil
>all over the back of the engine.
>
>Bud Silvers
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross S
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi Bud,
>
>It is bad news to put a filter on the suction side of any pump, as it can
>cause it to cavitate, and there goes your oil pressure. Also, you won't
>have filtration when you are inverted with that setup.
>
>-Ross
>RV-7
>www.experimentalair.com
>
>
> >From: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: "Rv-List@Matronics. Com" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: oil filter
> >Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 19:08:16 -0700
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
> >
> >Hello all;
> >
> >I am going to use an IO-360-A1A in an RV8. The engine was formerly in an
> >Acrosport II. When in the Acrosport it had an inverted oil system. Here
>is
> >a
> >link to some pictures which explain this better than I can here:
> >http://www.usaviator.net/inverted_oil.htm For my question I am referring
>to
> >fittings D and E in the second picture. This system took oil from the
>sump
> >and went to the inverted system before it went to the oil pump. There is
>a
> >special fitting welded to the sump where the oil goes from the inverted
> >system back to the pump, then of course through the engine. Currently I
> >have
> >these two fittings (D and E) looped together. What I am wondering is; If
> >instead of looping them together can I run one line (from E) to a remote
> >oil
> >filter and another line from the said remote filter back to (D) the pump.
> >Normally oil going through a filter is under pressure, this oil would be
> >under a vacuum since it would be located before the pump. Would this be a
> >problem? Does anyone know? Would you care to make any suggestions
>regarding
> >this set up or alternatives to me? What about using the oil cooler lines
> >and
> >putting a filter in line there?
> >
> >Your kind attention to this is greatly appreciated.
> >
> >With kindest personal regards, to all, I shall remain,
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >
> >Bud Silvers
> >
> >
>
>
Message 8
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Ross;
Thank you very much for the answer and for the link also. I will check with
the folks you suggested. The guy who bought the Acrosport is supposed to
come this weekend to pick it up. He wanted to switch oil sumps so he could
have the one with the necessary welded fitting. I am reluctant to do that as
I may some day decide to build my own inverted system. There really isn't
much to it since I already have the engine modification and the fittings.
The Acrosport has been a mess from day one, thus my decision to build an RV8
with the assistance of a friend. The main thing I am looking for is to build
an airplane that is low and easy maintenance. I had hoped to be able to
change the oil without removing the cowling and without getting anything too
dirty.
Thanks again for your help. You can reach me off list at
flynlow@usaviator.net. Where are you by the way?
Bud Silvers
Colorado Springs, CO
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross S
Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Hi Bud,
I may be getting in a bit over my head here, but I'll give you my take
anyway. The line to and from the cooler is a pressurized line and thus
would be better, but your engine likely has a vernatherm valve that when
functioning properly will keep the oil in your engine from going to the
cooler until it reaches a certain temperature (I think around 170 degrees
F). Also, you need to have a pressure relive valve that will bypass the
filter if it is blocked for any reason.
I initially had an oil sceen only on my engine and the first few oil changes
were a major pain in the arse, so I bought the casper labs 90 degree oil
filter adapter from Spuce. This mounts in place of the oil screen housing
and aims the filter up and out (about 10:30 looking at the back of the
engine).
I haven't changed the oil yet with it installed, but in theory, I should be
able to drain the hot oil out of the engine and poke a hole in the filter so
that is drains back down into the engine. Then come back later and unscrew
the empty filter with no mess.
If you want an opinion from someone who actually knows what they are talking
about, I would contact the folks at BPA (Barrett Performance Engines;
www.bpaengines.com) for a definative answer.
-Ross
>From: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
>Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2005 06:11:02 -0700
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
>Hello Ross;
>
>Thank you for your reply. I had a suspicion that the suction side was not a
>good idea. I do not intend to use the inverted system on the RV8. I have
>sold the Acrosport II and the inverted system goes with that airplane. Any
>other ideas are appreciated. What about in line with the oil cooler? I like
>the idea of a remote filter simply because it is cleaner to change the oil.
>I can locate the filter where it would be easy to drain without getting oil
>all over the back of the engine.
>
>Bud Silvers
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ross S
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>
>Hi Bud,
>
>It is bad news to put a filter on the suction side of any pump, as it can
>cause it to cavitate, and there goes your oil pressure. Also, you won't
>have filtration when you are inverted with that setup.
>
>-Ross
>RV-7
>www.experimentalair.com
>
>
> >From: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
> >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
> >To: "Rv-List@Matronics. Com" <rv-list@matronics.com>
> >Subject: RV-List: oil filter
> >Date: Fri, 18 Feb 2005 19:08:16 -0700
> >
> >--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
> >
> >Hello all;
> >
> >I am going to use an IO-360-A1A in an RV8. The engine was formerly in an
> >Acrosport II. When in the Acrosport it had an inverted oil system. Here
>is
> >a
> >link to some pictures which explain this better than I can here:
> >http://www.usaviator.net/inverted_oil.htm For my question I am referring
>to
> >fittings D and E in the second picture. This system took oil from the
>sump
> >and went to the inverted system before it went to the oil pump. There is
>a
> >special fitting welded to the sump where the oil goes from the inverted
> >system back to the pump, then of course through the engine. Currently I
> >have
> >these two fittings (D and E) looped together. What I am wondering is; If
> >instead of looping them together can I run one line (from E) to a remote
> >oil
> >filter and another line from the said remote filter back to (D) the pump.
> >Normally oil going through a filter is under pressure, this oil would be
> >under a vacuum since it would be located before the pump. Would this be a
> >problem? Does anyone know? Would you care to make any suggestions
>regarding
> >this set up or alternatives to me? What about using the oil cooler lines
> >and
> >putting a filter in line there?
> >
> >Your kind attention to this is greatly appreciated.
> >
> >With kindest personal regards, to all, I shall remain,
> >
> >Sincerely,
> >
> >Bud Silvers
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Hey there Bud,
I have an RV-4 which is really tight for changing the oil filter. It
used to be a messy job until I made a tool that another RV-List'er
recommended.
You take an ordinary C clamp that has an opening that's wide enough to
fit around your oil filter. Get a piece of rubber tubing that's long
enough to reach from your C clamp to your oil bucket. Get a steel roll
pin that's just about big enough to fit in your rubber tubing but not so
big that it's wider than your C clamp! Now you grind one end of that
roll pin to make a point, you're trying to make a can opener here so
make it sharp. Next drill a hole in the flat side of the stationary jaw
of your C clamp that's just big enough that the roll pin will fit if you
drive it with a hammer. Drive the roll pin in with the pointy end
toward the jackscrew on the opposite jaw of the C clamp. Put your
rubber tubing on the tail of the roll pin and secure it with a hose
clamp. Now, clamp that baby around your oil filter with the tubing and
pointy roll pin at the bottom of the oil filter, put your bucket under
your hose, and start turning the screw on the C clamp. The pointy roll
pin will puncture the oil filter and drain the oil into your bucket.
You may still get a drip or two but it won't be the big mess you would
have had. I also used a little RTV around the roll pin as a seal to
keep oil from seeping out past the roll pin while it is draining through
the tubing.
Geez that was wordy. I hope it makes sense.
flynlow@usaviator.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
>Hello Ross;
>
>Thank you for your reply. I had a suspicion that the suction side was not a
>good idea. I do not intend to use the inverted system on the RV8. I have
>sold the Acrosport II and the inverted system goes with that airplane. Any
>other ideas are appreciated. What about in line with the oil cooler? I like
>the idea of a remote filter simply because it is cleaner to change the oil.
>I can locate the filter where it would be easy to drain without getting oil
>all over the back of the engine.
>
>Bud Silvers
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 02/18/05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Carlrayw@aol.com
In a message dated 2/19/2005 2:59:43 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Subject: Re: RV-List: Expermental Inspections
I asked the inspector of my past EAA Club twice to inspect my plane with him
never showing up. Dropped out of the club now. No help to me.....Carl
Message 11
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| Subject: | Simpson Tiedowns |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doyce Graham" <dgraham@CLEMSON.EDU>
I reached Randy at this email address in mid 2004.
airtime@proaxis.com
Very satisfied with his product and his customer service.
Doyce Graham
Time: 10:45:29 AM PST US
From: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Titanium Tie downs (Randy Simpson)
clamav-milter version 0.80j
on opie.wvnet.edu
--> RV-List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net>
I don't have his number, but I ordered and paid for mine last March and
have not received them. I think he is out of business, no response to my
latest inquiry.
Bob
RV6 NightFighter
>Does any one on the list know how I can reach
>Randy Simpson Phone number..Ordered tie downs
>month ago and not able to get in touch with him!!
>
> Thanks
> John McMahon (RV6 Painting)
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
flynlow@usaviator.net wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
>Ross;
>
>Thank you very much for the answer and for the link also. I will check with
>the folks you suggested. The guy who bought the Acrosport is supposed to
>come this weekend to pick it up. He wanted to switch oil sumps so he could
>have the one with the necessary welded fitting. I am reluctant to do that as
>I may some day decide to build my own inverted system. There really isn't
>much to it since I already have the engine modification and the fittings.
>
>The Acrosport has been a mess from day one, thus my decision to build an RV8
>with the assistance of a friend. The main thing I am looking for is to build
>an airplane that is low and easy maintenance. I had hoped to be able to
>change the oil without removing the cowling and without getting anything too
>dirty.
>
>Thanks again for your help. You can reach me off list at
>flynlow@usaviator.net. Where are you by the way?
>
>Bud Silvers
>Colorado Springs, CO
>
>snipped>
FWIW, the times I've caught problems before they became incidents on my
plane were during oil changes. It's a pain in the rear to pull the cowl,
but that's when you can see all those problems. Remember, most of the
stuff under the cowl is 'aircraft quality' & should be treated that way,
not like the auto or experimental stuff that doesn't seem to break.
( obligatory :-) here )
Charlie
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 27 Msgs - 02/18/05 |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi Randy,
Which one of these three was the Sensenich 72FM (fixed 2blade) run on?
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 02/18/2005 11:59:43 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Time: 11:49:19 AM PST US
From: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: RV-List hartzell CS props
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
Three: my RV-8, Van's "Delbert", and Jerry VanGrunsven's RV-8A. The data was
normalized as best Van's could.
Randy Lervold
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Hello Scott
Thanks for your reply. I will consider your suggestion. Yes it did make
sence. I will have to take a look at my engine next time at the Airport and
get a better idea how that might work.
Thanks
Bud Silvers
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Scott
VanArtsdalen
Subject: Re: RV-List: oil filter
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott VanArtsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
Hey there Bud,
I have an RV-4 which is really tight for changing the oil filter. It
used to be a messy job until I made a tool that another RV-List'er
recommended.
You take an ordinary C clamp that has an opening that's wide enough to
fit around your oil filter. Get a piece of rubber tubing that's long
enough to reach from your C clamp to your oil bucket. Get a steel roll
pin that's just about big enough to fit in your rubber tubing but not so
big that it's wider than your C clamp! Now you grind one end of that
roll pin to make a point, you're trying to make a can opener here so
make it sharp. Next drill a hole in the flat side of the stationary jaw
of your C clamp that's just big enough that the roll pin will fit if you
drive it with a hammer. Drive the roll pin in with the pointy end
toward the jackscrew on the opposite jaw of the C clamp. Put your
rubber tubing on the tail of the roll pin and secure it with a hose
clamp. Now, clamp that baby around your oil filter with the tubing and
pointy roll pin at the bottom of the oil filter, put your bucket under
your hose, and start turning the screw on the C clamp. The pointy roll
pin will puncture the oil filter and drain the oil into your bucket.
You may still get a drip or two but it won't be the big mess you would
have had. I also used a little RTV around the roll pin as a seal to
keep oil from seeping out past the roll pin while it is draining through
the tubing.
Geez that was wordy. I hope it makes sense.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Pneumatic Squeezer |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Valovich, Paul" <pvalovich@dcscorp.com>
Last fall I bought a rebuilt 114C from U.S. Tool and have been very
happy with both it and their support (George) in answering a riveting
novice's DS questions.
Paul Valovich
RV-8A Elevators
Message 16
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| Subject: | Peltor ANR headset |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Has anyone tried one of the "new" (?) Peltor ANR Pro GT headsets that Van's
is carrying in the on-line catalog?
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Bud,
I found this in the new Avery tool catalog:
OIL FILTER DRAIN KIT
This tool makes draining oil from horizontally mounted filters clean amd
quick.
Warm your engine oil to at least 100 degrees. Punch hole in top of
filter with
punch provided; tighten clamp around filter and install drain hose;
rotate filter
1/2 turn; wait 5 to 10 minutes and filter will be empty of oil. Quick,
clean, &
easy. Instructions included. Works on all aircraft oil filters.
PART # 815 PRICE: $ 26.00 ea.
As another poster suggested, un-cowling the engine completely at oil
changes is a good opportunity to inspect the FWF for problems and
developing problems. You just might catch something chafing through and
save yourself an emergency.
Ed Holyoke
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
flynlow@usaviator.net
Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
--> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
Ross;
Thank you very much for the answer and for the link also. I will check
with
the folks you suggested. The guy who bought the Acrosport is supposed to
come this weekend to pick it up. He wanted to switch oil sumps so he
could
have the one with the necessary welded fitting. I am reluctant to do
that as
I may some day decide to build my own inverted system. There really
isn't
much to it since I already have the engine modification and the
fittings.
The Acrosport has been a mess from day one, thus my decision to build an
RV8
with the assistance of a friend. The main thing I am looking for is to
build
an airplane that is low and easy maintenance. I had hoped to be able to
change the oil without removing the cowling and without getting anything
too
dirty.
Thanks again for your help. You can reach me off list at
flynlow@usaviator.net. Where are you by the way?
Bud Silvers
Colorado Springs, CO
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
You could spend the $26, or you could spend just a buck or two and still
have a "dripless" filter change. All you need is a small funnel and some
tubing. Secure the funnel right beneath the oil filter with some safety
wire or whatever, and run tubing from the funnel down into a container.
http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040907_funnel_under_filter.jpg
http://rvproject.com/images/2004/20040907_filter_drain_tube.jpg
Punch a hole at the top of the oil filter. Punch it at the AFT end of the
filter -- which is better gravity-wise on a taildragger, and it also keeps
the hole from interfering with the filter element when you want to remove it
later. Loosen the filter 180 degrees. Punch another hole at what is now
the top (letting air get in and speeding up the drain process).
I let it sit until it stops dribbling. Put masking tape or duct tape or
whatever over the holes so residual oil doesn't drip as you rotate the
filter the rest of the way off to remove it.
Not a drop anywhere -- works every time. Don't need a $26 gadget! ;-)
Another old trick I tried once on one of the Mooneys... I went to a
motorcycle shop and picked an old innertube out of the dumpster. Chopped a
section of the innertube at the valve about 2" wide. Removed the valve
stem. Slide the innertube section over the oil filter. Take a hammer &
tail and punch the hole through the valve stem. Attach a tube to the valve
stem, and run the tube down to your oil pan/collector. Rotate the filter,
and it theoretically drains out the valve stem and through the tube. Better
in theory than in practice. Oil still managed to seep out around the edges
of the innertube section.
I like the funnel method, personally.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
>
> Bud,
>
> I found this in the new Avery tool catalog:
>
> OIL FILTER DRAIN KIT
> This tool makes draining oil from horizontally mounted filters clean amd
> quick.
> Warm your engine oil to at least 100 degrees. Punch hole in top of
> filter with
> punch provided; tighten clamp around filter and install drain hose;
> rotate filter
> 1/2 turn; wait 5 to 10 minutes and filter will be empty of oil. Quick,
> clean, &
> easy. Instructions included. Works on all aircraft oil filters.
> PART # 815 PRICE: $ 26.00 ea.
>
> As another poster suggested, un-cowling the engine completely at oil
> changes is a good opportunity to inspect the FWF for problems and
> developing problems. You just might catch something chafing through and
> save yourself an emergency.
>
> Ed Holyoke
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> flynlow@usaviator.net
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: oil filter
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: <flynlow@usaviator.net>
>
> Ross;
>
> Thank you very much for the answer and for the link also. I will check
> with
> the folks you suggested. The guy who bought the Acrosport is supposed to
> come this weekend to pick it up. He wanted to switch oil sumps so he
> could
> have the one with the necessary welded fitting. I am reluctant to do
> that as
> I may some day decide to build my own inverted system. There really
> isn't
> much to it since I already have the engine modification and the
> fittings.
>
> The Acrosport has been a mess from day one, thus my decision to build an
> RV8
> with the assistance of a friend. The main thing I am looking for is to
> build
> an airplane that is low and easy maintenance. I had hoped to be able to
> change the oil without removing the cowling and without getting anything
> too
> dirty.
>
> Thanks again for your help. You can reach me off list at
> flynlow@usaviator.net. Where are you by the way?
>
> Bud Silvers
> Colorado Springs, CO
>
>
Message 19
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that comes with Vans wiring
kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and would save me ordering possibly
duplicate material.
Thanks, Tom in Ohio
Message 20
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| Subject: | rigging the rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I estimate that a +-35 degree rudder deflection on my 6A will result in
about +-2.1inch pedal movement.
Should the pedals be set up so that they are vertical when the rudder is
in the neutral position? Seems to me it would be more comfortable if
they were rigged so that the bottom of the pedals are a bit (perhaps an
inch or so) further aft of the vertical position. Any recommendations
on how to set this up?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: rigging the rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/19/05 4:49:35 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
Should the pedals be set up so that they are vertical when the rudder is
in the neutral position? Seems to me it would be more comfortable if
they were rigged so that the bottom of the pedals are a bit (perhaps an
inch or so) further aft of the vertical position. Any recommendations
on how to set this up?
Thanks,
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
Tom,
I made up several different lengths of 1/2 wide aluminum strips, and tried
different lengths to see how they felt. When I found the right length, I made
them out of 4130 steel. You are right that you need the rudder pedals at an
angle so you can avoid hitting the brakes.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying)
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: rigging the rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
The further aft the bottom of your pedals are, the more difficult it will be
for you to reach your brake pedals. On the other hand, having the bottom of
the pedals aft will help you avoid unintentional brake application.
Choose your poison.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "sarg314" <sarg314@comcast.net>
Subject: RV-List: rigging the rudder pedals
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I estimate that a +-35 degree rudder deflection on my 6A will result in
> about +-2.1inch pedal movement.
>
> Should the pedals be set up so that they are vertical when the rudder is
> in the neutral position? Seems to me it would be more comfortable if
> they were rigged so that the bottom of the pedals are a bit (perhaps an
> inch or so) further aft of the vertical position. Any recommendations
> on how to set this up?
>
> Thanks,
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine.
>
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
The vernatherm is actually in parallel with the oil cooler and bypasses
the cooler when the oil is cold. The path to and from the cooler is
never restricted by the vernatherm - only bypassed, so some oil will
always flow through the cooler, just less if the vernatherm is open.This
is why you have to cover the cooler in cold weather. But it's still a
lousy place for the filter. 8>)
Dave B
> The line to and from the cooler is a pressurized line and thus
>would be better, but your engine likely has a vernatherm valve that when
>functioning properly will keep the oil in your engine from going to the
>cooler until it reaches a certain temperature (I think around 170 degrees
>F).
>
>
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Yes, it works great for this. Make the hole in the baffle the same OD
as the smaller diameter of the corregation and it snaps into place.
Jeff Point
RV-6
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 25
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Thanks Jeff!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Point" <jpoint@mindspring.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Blast Tubes
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
>
> Yes, it works great for this. Make the hole in the baffle the same OD
> as the smaller diameter of the corregation and it snaps into place.
>
> Jeff Point
> RV-6
> Milwaukee WI
>
>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 26
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--> RV-List message posted by: Rquinn1@aol.com
We have (I assume by Blast tubes you mean the tubes to carry air to the mags
and alternator and generator.) The black corrugated tubing sent by Vans works
well for us. We drilled the holes thru the rear baffle just large enough to
require the tub to be forced threaded. We have over 100 hours and the tubes
do the job.
Rollie & Rod
RV6A
799RQ
Message 27
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| Subject: | Dressing a Scotch-Brite Wheel |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
> With some of the shaping I've been doing with the Scotch Brite wheel, it
> has developed some grooves in it's surface. Is there a recommended way to
> dress a Scotch Brite wheel so it's surface is flat again?
Dig up that stone wheel that you took off when you put the Scotch Brite
one on there, and hold it against the scotch-brite. Works for me!
Randall Henderson
RV-6
With some of the shaping I've been doing with the Scotch Brite wheel, it
has developed some grooves in it's surface. Is there a recommended way to
dress a Scotch Brite wheel so it's surface is flat again?
Dig up that stone wheel that you took off when you put the Scotch Brite
one on there, and hold it against the scotch-brite. Works for me!
Randall Henderson
RV-6
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/16/05 4:40:56 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
rvreynolds@macs.net writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Try a wood 2X4.
Richard Reynolds
Richard,
Are the dimensions critical? I mean why a 2 by 4? Are you serious about
using wood to dress the wheel?
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | Ray Allen Servo T2-10A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
While installing the servo for the aileron trim in an RV-7, I somehow
managed to get the actuating arm in a bind and broke the tip off of the
actuating arm where the clevis pin is located. I really hate to spend
$125 for another servo when I could easily replace the actuating arm.
Has anyone had any experience obtaining parts for these servos from Ray
Allen? Anyone have a T2-10A servo for sale?
Bill
RV-7 fuse & finish
Lee's Summit, MO
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Peltor ANR headset |
--> RV-List message posted by: Gary Zilik <zilik@direcpc.com>
No, but I do have the Peltor ANR and they work great.
Gary
HCRV6@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
>Has anyone tried one of the "new" (?) Peltor ANR Pro GT headsets that Van's
>is carrying in the on-line catalog?
>
>Harry Crosby
>Pleasanton, California
>RV-6, flying!
>
>
>
>
Message 31
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| Subject: | New pictures and movies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at these
photos and videos.
http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html
The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation.
More to come!
-Ross
Ross Schlotthauer
RV-7 driver
www.experimentalair.com
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: New pictures and movies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>
> Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at these
> photos and videos.
>
> http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html
>
> The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation.
>
> More to come!
>
> -Ross
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV-7 driver
> www.experimentalair.com
>
>
Message 33
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|
| Subject: | Re: New pictures and movies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Calvert" <rv6@cox.net>
They opened for me. I have high speed cable modem and it still took longer
that usual to open. They must be large files.
Jerry Calvert
N296JC
----- Original Message -----
From: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New pictures and movies
> --> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
>
> Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at
these
> > photos and videos.
> >
> > http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html
> >
> > The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation.
> >
> > More to come!
> >
> > -Ross
> >
> > Ross Schlotthauer
> > RV-7 driver
> > www.experimentalair.com
> >
> >
>
>
Message 34
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|
| Subject: | Re: New pictures and movies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Is working well in S Texas...
Bryan -8
Houston
do not archive
>Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty?
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
> >
> > Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at
>these
> > photos and videos.
> >
> > http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html
> >
> > The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation.
> >
> > More to come!
> >
> > -Ross
> >
> > Ross Schlotthauer
> > RV-7 driver
> > www.experimentalair.com
> >
> >
Message 35
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|
| Subject: | New pictures and movies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
They work, but real slow to open. Also, firewall, if installed must
allow access to link by windows media player
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of D Paul Deits
Subject: Re: RV-List: New pictures and movies
--> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>
> Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at
these
> photos and videos.
>
> http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html
>
> The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation.
>
> More to come!
>
> -Ross
>
> Ross Schlotthauer
> RV-7 driver
> www.experimentalair.com
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: New pictures and movies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
If you don't have broad band , forget it. Took a while with my high speed
cable connection.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: New pictures and movies
> --> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
>
> Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty?
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at these
>> photos and videos.
>>
>> http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html
>>
>> The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation.
>>
>> More to come!
>>
>> -Ross
>>
>> Ross Schlotthauer
>> RV-7 driver
>> www.experimentalair.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 37
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|
| Subject: | Re: Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
> Try a wood 2X4.
>
> Richard Reynolds
>
>
> Richard,
>
> Are the dimensions critical? I mean why a 2 by 4? Are you serious about
> using wood to dress the wheel?
That is exactly what to use. There is a procedure published by the mfg.
Take a look for it on the web...
Message 38
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|
| Subject: | Re: New pictures and movies |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jerry Springer <jsflyrv@comcast.net>
I use Comcast Cable and open with Windows Media Player and they all
dnload and open in about 10 seconds.
I only use Windows XP firewall
Jerry
do not archive
William Gill wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
>
>They work, but real slow to open. Also, firewall, if installed must
>allow access to link by windows media player
>
>Bill
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of D Paul Deits
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: RV-List: New pictures and movies
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "D Paul Deits" <pdeits@comcast.net>
>
>Videos do not open for me, anyone else have difficulty?
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>>
>>Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at
>>
>>
>these
>
>
>>photos and videos.
>>
>>http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html
>>
>>The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation.
>>
>>More to come!
>>
>>-Ross
>>
>>Ross Schlotthauer
>>RV-7 driver
>>www.experimentalair.com
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 39
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|
| Subject: | New pictures and movies |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
Ross,
We will have to do a little flying together this summer when I bring the -9A
up from Portland. Where is your -7 hanger at Felts?
Mike Robertson
Do Not Archive
>From: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: New pictures and movies
>Date: Sat, 19 Feb 2005 17:56:43 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ross S" <rv7maker@hotmail.com>
>
>Attention builders! Lay down the deburring tool and have a look at these
>photos and videos.
>
>http://www.experimentalair.com/n703rv/flying-feb-05.html
>
>The videos are a bit shaky, but should serve as a litte motivation.
>
>More to come!
>
>-Ross
>
>Ross Schlotthauer
>RV-7 driver
>www.experimentalair.com
>
>
Message 40
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|
| Subject: | Certification packets |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" <mrobert569@hotmail.com>
To everyone that asked me for a packet, and there were several of you. I
got your requests and will send everyone one next week as soon as I can.
Mike Robertson
Das Fed
Do Not Archive
Message 41
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| Subject: | Re: rigging the rudder pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
In a message dated 2/19/2005 2:01:49 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
Hopperdhh@aol.com writes:
Should the pedals be set up so that they are vertical when the rudder is
in the neutral position? Seems to me it would be more comfortable if
they were rigged so that the bottom of the pedals are a bit (perhaps an
inch or so) further aft of the vertical position. Any recommendations
on how to set this up?
======================================
Aft is better IMO. The main thing you will need to consider is the angle
the pedals make with respect to your feet. As long as you can get this pedal
relationship established to your satisfaction, the angle of the hoops is moot.
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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