Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:09 AM - Re: Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel (Richard V. Reynolds)
2. 05:26 AM - Fuel Vent Line, RV-7 (William Gill)
3. 06:07 AM - Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? (Andrew Douglas)
4. 07:19 AM - Re: Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
5. 07:26 AM - Re: Fuel Vent Line, RV-7 (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
6. 08:50 AM - Re: Re: Source for decals (Larry Bowen)
7. 10:29 AM - Re: Alodine safety (MLWynn@aol.com)
8. 11:18 AM - Re: Ray Allen Servo T2-10A (gert)
9. 11:19 AM - Re: Alodine safety (Charlie Kuss)
10. 01:56 PM - Heavy Wing (Ivan McLaws)
11. 03:27 PM - Re: Heavy Wing (Kevin Horton)
12. 03:39 PM - Re: Heavy Wing (Jeff Point)
13. 05:19 PM - Re: Blast Tubes (HCRV6@aol.com)
14. 05:26 PM - Re: Alodine safety (Chuck Jensen)
15. 05:54 PM - Re: Heavy Wing (JOHN STARN)
16. 06:05 PM - Re: Blast Tubes (Alex Peterson)
17. 06:29 PM - Re: Blast Tubes (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
18. 06:30 PM - Re: Blast Tubes (RV6 Flyer)
19. 10:47 PM - FS - IO-540 450 hours, $15k (Richard Riley)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Yes,
2X4, 1X4, 1X3 etc.about 12-18 inches long. You want to be able to hold on to it
and apply pressure to the wheel. Tunn off the smoke detector!
Richard Reynolds
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 2/16/05 4:40:56 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> rvreynolds@macs.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
> Try a wood 2X4.
>
> Richard Reynolds
>
> Richard,
>
> Are the dimensions critical? I mean why a 2 by 4? Are you serious about
> using wood to dress the wheel?
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying)
>
> do not archive
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Fuel Vent Line, RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
I am getting ready to drill the holes through the side of the fuselage
to install the bulkhead fittings for the fuel vent lines. Drawing 28
indicates that there should be a small pre-punched hole that needs to be
enlarged for these bulkhead fittings. Well, there isn't any. Can someone
please provide the location for these holes using existing rivet lines
for a reference?
Thanks.
Bill
RV-7 fuse & finish
Lee's Summit, MO
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> Andrew,
>
> Those holes are where you rivet F-704G bars to the web.
>
> Dan Hopper
Nonono....
The "extra" holes are in the WING SPAR. The rivets that go through the 704G
and into the 704 bulkhead web don't go through the spar (otherwise you
couldn't pull the wings without drilling the rivets out).
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/20/05 9:09:13 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
adouglas@optonline.net writes:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> Andrew,
>
> Those holes are where you rivet F-704G bars to the web.
>
> Dan Hopper
Nonono....
The "extra" holes are in the WING SPAR. The rivets that go through the 704G
and into the 704 bulkhead web don't go through the spar (otherwise you
couldn't pull the wings without drilling the rivets out).
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Andrew,
I already corrected myself in another post. Apparently, there ARE extra
holes in the spar web by mistake from Van's. Is this correct?
Dan
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Vent Line, RV-7 |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/20/05 8:27:37 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
wgill10@comcast.net writes:
I am getting ready to drill the holes through the side of the fuselage
to install the bulkhead fittings for the fuel vent lines. Drawing 28
indicates that there should be a small pre-punched hole that needs to be
enlarged for these bulkhead fittings. Well, there isn't any. Can someone
please provide the location for these holes using existing rivet lines
for a reference?
Thanks.
Bill
RV-7 fuse & finish
Lee's Summit, MO
Bill,
Maybe someone will give you an exact answer, but speaking from experience:
Wait until you fit the wings on and project the leading edge to the fuselage
with a yardstick, or draw around the fairing. Just be sure to keep the large
washer inside of the fairing outline, and look on the inside of the cabin to
be sure you have a clear area there. I had to "move" mine after finding
that I had it so low that the washer projected below the wing leading edge on
the bottom.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A
N766DH (Flying)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Source for decals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
What is the procedure for decals on a polished plane? Run the buffer right
over the decal? Polish near the edge of the decal by hand and hope it
doesn't peal up? Spray clear over the area (bad idea?)? Other????
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Rick Galati [mailto:rick6a@yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, February 15, 2005 5:46 PM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Re: Source for decals
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Rick Galati <rick6a@yahoo.com>
>
> I think this company's product line is what you have in mind.
>
> Rick Galati
> http://www.aerographics.com/
>
>
> I'm planning on painting my plane as a Military trainer. Can
> anyone recommend a source for decals? star insignia, etc.
>
>
> =========
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Alodine safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
I am about two weeks away from my first exciting adventure with alondining.
I figure I need some heavy gloves and a chemical proof apron. I have a
respirator but didn't think that was going to be necessary. Anyone got a good
source or recommendations for gloves and apron? Was the final consensus that the
respirator is not necessary?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8 Empennage
San Ramon CA
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Ray Allen Servo T2-10A |
--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
Bill
Contact R.A.
I had a similar situation where the actuator arm got nicked rather
deeper than I liked during install, mu fault of course....
Gave'm a call and told the sad story, R.A. folks told me to ship it
back with a prepaid return container and 5 bucks.. Came back brand new!!!!
Great folks!!!
Gert
William Gill wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
>
>While installing the servo for the aileron trim in an RV-7, I somehow
>managed to get the actuating arm in a bind and broke the tip off of the
>actuating arm where the clevis pin is located. I really hate to spend
>$125 for another servo when I could easily replace the actuating arm.
>Has anyone had any experience obtaining parts for these servos from Ray
>Allen? Anyone have a T2-10A servo for sale?
>
>
>Bill
>RV-7 fuse & finish
>Lee's Summit, MO
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Alodine safety |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Michael,
I've Alodined EVERY aluminum part of my 8A project. I used simple Latex
or Nitrile gloves to protect my hands. Using due care, I never spilled any
on most of my body. The MSDS for chromic conversion liquids calls for
flushing the skin with water, followed by washing with soap and water. The
two areas where I did spill, were my lower arms and my socks. This happened
several times, usually while transferring the Alodine back into my 5 gallon
storage buckets. Wearing long sleeved shirts or long "gauntlet" gloves will
protect your arms. I always kept spare socks and extra shoes/boots
available. In retrospect, I wish I'd have fabricated some sort of plastic
covering for the lower leg area. I simply removed my shoes and socks, then
washed up. The amount spilled on me was always under 2 oz. This may be more
useful than the apron.
Please keep in mind that the dire warnings are there primarily for
industrial workers, who use these chemicals on a daily basis. The exposure
they get comes from repeated contact over a period of years. Sort of like
smoking cigarettes, a few won't kill you. Keep doing it for 10 or 20 years
and you've got problems. I'm not trying to imply that you should ignore
safe work habits when using these products. Just don't make more of it,
than needs be.
A small aquarium style pump is really handy for transferring your Alodine
and AlumiPrep chemicals from the dip tanks back to their storage
containers. I would also empty my rinse water tank with this pump, to
ensure that I had not left acid inside the pump. It will last longer that
way. Remember that Alodine is photo chemically reactive. Don't use it out
in the sun, or it will be ruined. By this, I mean that the next time you
use it, nothing will happen. Do it in your garage or shop with the door
and/or windows open.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
>
>Hi all,
>
>I am about two weeks away from my first exciting adventure with alondining.
>I figure I need some heavy gloves and a chemical proof apron. I have a
>respirator but didn't think that was going to be necessary. Anyone got a
>good
>source or recommendations for gloves and apron? Was the final consensus
>that the
>respirator is not necessary?
>
>Regards,
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8 Empennage
>San Ramon CA
>
>
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
I flew N532JV for the first time 2 weeks ago and had a "heavy" left wing. We called
Vans who told us to very lightly tap the heavy wing trailing edge aileron
and lightly squeeze the light wing trailing edge aileron. I worked. Now what
are the aerodynamics involved?
Ivan McLaws
Message 11
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--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
>
>I flew N532JV for the first time 2 weeks ago and had a "heavy" left
>wing. We called Vans who told us to very lightly tap the heavy wing
>trailing edge aileron and lightly squeeze the light wing trailing
>edge aileron. I worked. Now what are the aerodynamics involved?
>
>Ivan McLaws
I have a theory, but I don't know whether it is the right answer or not.
At the trailing edge, the air on the bottom has a tendency to follow
the radius (Conada Effect). The larger the trailing edge radius, the
greater the tendency the air has to go around the radius. The little
bit of lower surface air that follows the radius ends up changing its
direction upwards. It takes a force to cause the air to change
direction, and the equal and opposite reaction is felt on the
aileron, which has a tendency to deflect downwards. This tends to
lift that wing. Of course the aileron on the other side is doing the
same thing, but they are connected. Whichever aileron has the larger
trailing edge radius overpowers the other one.
The obvious question is what about the air on the top of the wing?
It should be doing the same thing, and in the other direction. On
the upper surface, the air velocity is maximum nearer the leading
edge, and the air is slowing down as it approaches the trailing edge.
This means that the air pressure is increasing as you move aft
(Bernoulli tells us that the air pressure increases as the air slows
down). So, the air is moving from an area of low pressure towards an
area of higher pressure. It doesn't like to do that, so it slows
down, which increases the boundary layer thickness. I believe that
the boundary layer on the aft part of the upper surface is thicker
than the boundary layer on the aft part of the lower surface, as the
upper surface has a more adverse pressure gradient. This means that
the air right next to the skin on the aft part of the wing is going
slower on the upper surface than it is on the lower surface, so the
Coanada effect would be greater on the lower surface.
This is just my personal theory. It might be right or wrong.
http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/coanda.htm
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
I'm surprised that they told you to do this first. Who did you talk to
at Van's?
They have a FAQ for this very common problem on their website:
http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf
The short version is this: "squeezing" the ailerons is the last thing to
do. Rechecking all of the alignment of the wings, stabilizers, fairings
etc. The other biggie is check the aileron alignment relative to the
wing. I did and found that the leading edge of the "light" wing aileron
was sticking down into the slipstream about 1/8 inch or so. A new pair
of aileron brackets for ten bucks and an hour of work and the problem
was solved, with no squeezing involved. If you squeeze an aileron,
unless the aileron itself was causing the problem, you are just covering
up a problem elsewhere, and adding unnecessary drag in the process.
Read the FAQ sheet, it does a good job of explaining the whole process.
Jeff Point
RV-6 with a former heavy right wing
Milwaukee WI
>
>
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/19/05 1:44:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
tcervin@valkyrie.net writes:
<< Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that comes with Vans
wiring kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and would save me ordering
possibly duplicate material. >>
That is what I used and it seems to work just fine.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, 30 hours to date.
Message 14
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Charlie,
You are correct on the relative danger of using Alodine (hexavalent chromate).
It is a nasty chemical if the exposre is acute (large ingestion) or chronic
(working with it regularly). However, its not one of those touch-and-die things.
But no benefit comes from exposure through ingestion or absorption. The
chance of getting cancer from spilling it on your leg or arms a few times is
about the same as the odds of getting hit by a meteor, or a crashing Challenger
jet landing on your head (ooops, actually, the odds are a lot less then that!).
Nonetheless, the only true safe exposure is no exposure, so wear gloves
and don't take a bath in it.
The sun (after a while) will change hexavalent to trivalent chromates, which are
safe, but ineffectual for the intended purpose.
Do Not Archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Charlie Kuss
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alodine safety
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Michael,
I've Alodined EVERY aluminum part of my 8A project. I used simple Latex
or Nitrile gloves to protect my hands. Using due care, I never spilled any
on most of my body. The MSDS for chromic conversion liquids calls for
flushing the skin with water, followed by washing with soap and water. The
two areas where I did spill, were my lower arms and my socks. This happened
several times, usually while transferring the Alodine back into my 5 gallon
storage buckets. Wearing long sleeved shirts or long "gauntlet" gloves will
protect your arms. I always kept spare socks and extra shoes/boots
available. In retrospect, I wish I'd have fabricated some sort of plastic
covering for the lower leg area. I simply removed my shoes and socks, then
washed up. The amount spilled on me was always under 2 oz. This may be more
useful than the apron.
Please keep in mind that the dire warnings are there primarily for
industrial workers, who use these chemicals on a daily basis. The exposure
they get comes from repeated contact over a period of years. Sort of like
smoking cigarettes, a few won't kill you. Keep doing it for 10 or 20 years
and you've got problems. I'm not trying to imply that you should ignore
safe work habits when using these products. Just don't make more of it,
than needs be.
A small aquarium style pump is really handy for transferring your Alodine
and AlumiPrep chemicals from the dip tanks back to their storage
containers. I would also empty my rinse water tank with this pump, to
ensure that I had not left acid inside the pump. It will last longer that
way. Remember that Alodine is photo chemically reactive. Don't use it out
in the sun, or it will be ruined. By this, I mean that the next time you
use it, nothing will happen. Do it in your garage or shop with the door
and/or windows open.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
>
>Hi all,
>
>I am about two weeks away from my first exciting adventure with alondining.
>I figure I need some heavy gloves and a chemical proof apron. I have a
>respirator but didn't think that was going to be necessary. Anyone got a
>good
>source or recommendations for gloves and apron? Was the final consensus
>that the
>respirator is not necessary?
>
>Regards,
>
>Michael Wynn
>RV-8 Empennage
>San Ramon CA
>
>
Message 15
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--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
It's been a while since this question was first asked. It should be
stressed. It's takes VERY LITTLE squeeze to lift the light wing. We used
sheet metal "duck bills" as the jaws close parallel rather than alligator or
scissor style pliers. We put duck tape on the jaws to protect the finish. IF
you "feel" the edge give when you squeeze it's TOO MUCH. VERY VERY VERY
little force needs to be applied. The "duck bills" we used are about 5" wide
and you squeeze the entire length VERY VERY little. We did it twice on
N561FS to get it perfect. We didn't "wack" the heavy wing at all, didn't
need to. This post has lots of VERY'S in for a VERY good reason. Go slow.
KABONG (GBA& GWB) 8*) Do Not Archive
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heavy Wing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Point <jpoint@mindspring.com>
> They have a FAQ for this very common problem on their website:
>
> http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/Wing_Heavy.pdf
>
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 2/19/05 1:44:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> tcervin@valkyrie.net writes:
>
> << Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that
> comes with Vans
> wiring kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and
> would save me ordering
> possibly duplicate material. >>
>
The blast tube material appears to be the same as the wiring conduit, except
for the fact that the wiring conduit is split.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 574 hours
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
Alex, The wiring conduit that came with my kit wasn't split.
Tom
----- Original Message -----
From: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Blast Tubes
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson"
> <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>>
>> In a message dated 2/19/05 1:44:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
>> tcervin@valkyrie.net writes:
>>
>> << Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that
>> comes with Vans
>> wiring kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and
>> would save me ordering
>> possibly duplicate material. >>
>>
>
> The blast tube material appears to be the same as the wiring conduit,
> except
> for the fact that the wiring conduit is split.
>
> Alex Peterson
> RV6-A 574 hours
> Maple Grove, MN
>
> http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
>
>
>
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "RV6 Flyer" <rv6_flyer@hotmail.com>
It has worked for 7.5 years and 1,635 hours on my airplane. It is the same
thing.
Gary A. Sobek
"My Sanity" RV-6 N157GS O-320 Hartzell,
1,635 + Flying Hours So. CA, USA
http://SoCAL_WVAF.rvproject.com
----Original Message Follows----
>
> In a message dated 2/19/05 1:44:39 PM Pacific Standard Time,
> tcervin@valkyrie.net writes:
>
> << Anyone on the list used the corrugated nylon tube that
> comes with Vans
> wiring kits for blast tubes? It looks about the same and
> would save me ordering
> possibly duplicate material. >>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | FS - IO-540 450 hours, $15k |
--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Riley <Richard@Riley.net>
A friend of mine is selling an IO-540 out of a crashed canard airplane.
Parallel valve, 10:1 pistons, ported and polished on a flow bench, about
305 HP. Airflow performance fuel injection, 2 Lightspeed igntions, B&C
lightweight starter and 60 amp alternator. Modified, low profile sump per
the Berkut standard. Induction through the bottom of the sump. 450 hours
at the crash, all logs are available. Currently set up for a fixed pitch
prop, but with a hollow crank so it can be converted back. The flange is
unbent, the crash was at idle with a wood prop.
$15k plus shipping. Contact me if you're interested.
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