Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:04 AM - i39, February (this Saturday) 26th. Flyin (Dana Overall)
2. 05:22 AM - Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? (Andrew Douglas)
3. 07:07 AM - Re: Heavy Wing (Shemp)
4. 07:10 AM - oil canning? (Shemp)
5. 07:50 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List: Re: Bendix King Skyforce IIIC GPS battery (Chris Good)
6. 09:19 AM - Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (Matthew Brandes)
7. 10:32 AM - Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (Ed Anderson)
8. 11:00 AM - Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (Dan Checkoway)
9. 11:55 AM - Local source for 2024 sheet (Greg.Puckett@united.com)
10. 12:15 PM - Re: oil canning? (rv6n6r@comcast.net)
11. 12:52 PM - Re: Local source for 2024 sheet (cgalley)
12. 01:35 PM - O360 settings (Michel Gordillo)
13. 01:36 PM - Re: Local source for 2024 sheet (Terry Watson)
14. 02:05 PM - Re: Ray Allen Servo T2-10A (William Gill)
15. 02:05 PM - Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (David Carter)
16. 02:34 PM - Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (David Carter)
17. 03:14 PM - Re: Local source for 2024 sheet (Tommy Walker)
18. 03:21 PM - Ti tie downs (Rob W M Shipley)
19. 06:18 PM - Re: Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel (Bryan Hooks)
20. 08:18 PM - Mag question... (Tom)
21. 08:28 PM - Re: Alodine safety (Brian Kraut)
22. 08:35 PM - Trio Ez Pilot Question (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
23. 09:00 PM - Re: Trio Ez Pilot Question (Brian Kraut)
Message 1
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| Subject: | i39, February (this Saturday) 26th. Flyin |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
Ok, it looks loke the weather gods are cooperating for this Saturday's, Feb
26th., Flyin. I have received enough private emails to let me know we
should have another large gathering of RV's.....great way to start the
"flying season". Here is a repost with an additional unsolicited
contribution of door prizes: Bob at Fairings-Etc.com set of gear leg and
wheel pant fairings for the RV of your choice...................I say "Black
RV-7".......guess I better not:-)
Come one, come all, we'll have a good time.
The following companies have graciously donated items to the flyin at
i39, Richmond/Madison:
http://steinair.com
http://www.aircraftextras.com/FPS-Plus.htm- one push flap operations
engalt.com/aviation.htm-post light system
Anywhere Map-total software package
Avery Tools
Van's aircraft
I am working on more and will be hearing from them shortly. I expect
to have as many door prizes, if not more than last year. I truly
appreciate the donations and urge all to support those who support
us.
Last year we had 87 RV's as of noon when I stopped counting deal with
lunch. This year it looks like lunch will be even better. As you
remember, we had Hooters wings but no Hooters girls. Well, that will
change this year. Be sure and bring your tip money, that is all I'll
say right now:-)
Start planning on your flights but do remember there is restricted
airspace above the Army Depot to the east side of the interstate.
Parking will be on the ramp on a first come first serve basis.
Overflow parking is easily accomodated on the taxiway. I haven't yet
talked with Mike from TeamRV but will be pushing that button later
today along with the FFI cardholders from my group The Ohio Valley
RVators. Guess this year I'll wear a TeamRV sweetshirt and an
OVRVators hat:-)
Reserve parking will be available on the ramp for any Super 8s,
Rotary RVs, OVRVators and Team RV. I am going to request a missing
man display in respect for my father, NOMAD's recently deceased
father, Turbo Tom, our troops and anyone else who has suffered a loss
since last year's flyin.
Remember, this a flyin. No forums, no lectures, no presentations
just a bunch of liers walking around swapping airplanes
lies.............or, I mean stories:-) Just be careful, as the
pattern was full of RV last year. We did have great weather last
year which allowed people to fly in from Florida, Michigan, PN, Iowa
and all parts between.
OK, you guys form Indy lets see if you can top your turnout of 25+
last year and OVRVators, let's give them a run for their money!!
Just a teaser, here are the shots from last year. Let's put it in
the top 10 RV attended flyins again!!
http://members16.clubphoto.com/rick742624/guest.phtml
If anyone wants to spend the night here is a list of local motels.
Comfort Suites
859 624-0770
Next to Cracker Barrel
Hampton Inn
859 626-1002
Next to Bob Evans
Holiday Inn Express & Suites
859 624-4088
Walking distance Bob Evans
Best Western
859 623-9220
Same as above
Jameson Inn
859 623-0063
Bob Evans shares parking lot
La Quinta
859 623-9121
Near Cracker Barrel
Ramada Limited
859 626-8676
Same as above
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Help..."Extra" holes in wing spar stub and F704 pieces? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Andrew Douglas <adouglas@optonline.net>
> Apparently, there ARE extra
> holes in the spar web by mistake from Van's. Is this correct?
>
> Dan
>
Well that's the musical question. There are holes for sure. But why? Same
question goes for the fore 704D vertical pieces...there are bolt holes there
that correspond to the bolt holes in the 704G, but bolts do not go through
them.
While the prepunched kit is GREAT and I wouldn't have it any other way, when
something unusual is encountered it does lead to a lot of second-guessing
like this over stuff that makes no difference 99.99 percent of the time.
It's that 0.01 percent "gotcha" factor that makes us nervous.
It's natural to assume that every single hole was punched for a darned good
reason. What's frustrating is that it's sometimes left up to us to figure
out what that reason is, and that can be a bit of a scavenger hunt to say
the least. What's more frustrating is that sometimes there's no reason at
all for a given hole to be (or not be) in a given spot. The center snap
bushing holes that you drill in the 704B are like that...no guide hole was
punched, unlike every other snap bushing hole. Absolutely no reason.
-----------------------------------------------------
Andrew Douglas
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
There's a good article about this in the RVator.
do not archive
shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Heavy Wing
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ivan McLaws" <toejam@cybertrails.com>
>>
>>I flew N532JV for the first time 2 weeks ago and had a "heavy" left
>>wing. We called Vans who told us to very lightly tap the heavy wing
>>trailing edge aileron and lightly squeeze the light wing trailing
>>edge aileron. I worked. Now what are the aerodynamics involved?
>>
>>Ivan McLaws
>
> I have a theory, but I don't know whether it is the right answer or not.
>
> At the trailing edge, the air on the bottom has a tendency to follow
> the radius (Conada Effect). The larger the trailing edge radius, the
> greater the tendency the air has to go around the radius. The little
> bit of lower surface air that follows the radius ends up changing its
> direction upwards. It takes a force to cause the air to change
> direction, and the equal and opposite reaction is felt on the
> aileron, which has a tendency to deflect downwards. This tends to
> lift that wing. Of course the aileron on the other side is doing the
> same thing, but they are connected. Whichever aileron has the larger
> trailing edge radius overpowers the other one.
>
> The obvious question is what about the air on the top of the wing?
> It should be doing the same thing, and in the other direction. On
> the upper surface, the air velocity is maximum nearer the leading
> edge, and the air is slowing down as it approaches the trailing edge.
> This means that the air pressure is increasing as you move aft
> (Bernoulli tells us that the air pressure increases as the air slows
> down). So, the air is moving from an area of low pressure towards an
> area of higher pressure. It doesn't like to do that, so it slows
> down, which increases the boundary layer thickness. I believe that
> the boundary layer on the aft part of the upper surface is thicker
> than the boundary layer on the aft part of the lower surface, as the
> upper surface has a more adverse pressure gradient. This means that
> the air right next to the skin on the aft part of the wing is going
> slower on the upper surface than it is on the lower surface, so the
> Coanada effect would be greater on the lower surface.
>
> This is just my personal theory. It might be right or wrong.
>
> http://jnaudin.free.fr/html/coanda.htm
>
> --
> Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
> Ottawa, Canada
> http://www.kilohotel.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Has any noticed an oil canning pop while flying fast? I get a change in aileron
trim once this happens. I think it may be the old style fiberglass wing tips.
I put some foam in one of them to keep it from falling out of shape and Im
guessing this may be applying too much pressure in there when going fast. Just
a theory.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 5
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| Subject: | RE: AeroElectric-List: RE: Bendix King Skyforce IIIC GPS battery |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Good" <chrisjgood@lycos.com>
Chuck,
After 5 yrs, my Skyforce IIIC just started complaining about the battery. I put
in a web order last night to McMaster-Carr, per your suggestion:
P/N is 6951K999 and the description is "disposable lithium battery Hawker Entercell
3.7V TO6/8AA TCL
with one wire pigtail each end."
They phoned me this morning & said they don't carry anything like this battery.
Is there some magic phrase that I'm missing? Do you, or anyone else, know of
any other source for an equivalent?
Regards,
Chris Good,
West Bend, WI
RV-6A
----- Original Message -----
From: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: RE: Bendix King Skyforce IIIC GPS battery
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: Chuck Jensen <cjensen@dts9000.com>
>
> For all the DIYs. The disassembly is not difficult but as you work your way
> down through the board levels, just remove the screws and clips as you go.
> The battery leads are soldered directly onto the board. Use a solder-sucker
> to desolder the pigtail joints. Put the new battery pigtails in place,
> soldered it (not too many close-by components to be heat damaged) and
> reassemble. Plug in, turn on and allow internal battery to charge up.
>
> Cycle unit off/on. The database will likely be corrupted (it's probably a
> Political Database). If the memory is corrupted, go into SETUP and clear
> memory. The code to clear memory is either 3-3-3-3 or 1-2-3-4. When the
> memory is cleared, your pin number is reset to 1-2-3-4. You will lose all
> your saved flight plans and/or waypoints, but that's not the end of the
> world!
>
> Kurt, an external battery may get disconnected, or not charged; each time
> resulting in loss of your memory and corrupted database. Replacing the
> internal battery is a once-every-5-year project and takes less than an
> hour...2 hours for the dexterity-challenged. Not a big deal.
>
> As to the battery itself, the McMaster-Carr P/N is 6951K999 and the
> description is "disposable lithium battery Hawker Entercell 3.7V TO6/8AA TCL
> with one wire pigtail each end." Price was $13.46 with $3.45 shipping.
>
> Chuck
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-aeroelectric-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of kurt
> schrader
> To: aeroelectric-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: AeroElectric-List: RE: Bendix King Skyforce IIIC GPS
> battery
>
>
> --> AeroElectric-List message posted by: kurt schrader
> <smokey_bear_40220@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi Jim,
>
> What I meant to say is that I wanted to mount the
> replacement battery on the outside to avoid opening
> the unit again next time. My main power comes off the
> aircraft system. An external battery could be of any
> diminsions and not have to fit the inside space. It
> could be larger or maybe a cheaper substitute? Or
> just a radio shack substitute that is easier to get.
>
> How's that for thinking out of the box? :-) Ok, if
> it isn't too hard to do, I'll just stick with the
> matching substitute.
>
> Kurt S.
>
> --- Jim Stone <jsto1@tampabay.rr.com> wrote:
>
> > Re: AeroElectric-List: RE: Bendix King Skyforce
> > IIIC GPS battery
> >
> > Kert,
> >
> > I agree it's a bummer, having just gone through the
> > process myself. I
> > also did some investigations inside the box. It is
> > NOT a standard
> > identifiable battery as one would expect. This is
> > probably a legacy of
> > the unit originally being designed and built in
> > Great Britain, then the
> > company was bought by Bendix/King.
> >
> > Since the battery is used to keep the RAM alive, an
> > external battery would still be required.
> >
> > Mine lasted over 5 years before the message poped
> up.
> >
> > Good Luck,
> >
> > Jim Stone
>
>
>
> __________________________________
>
>
--
Message 6
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<vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame together
and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I
have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs the
side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the passenger
side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and I
really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft edge
lines up nicely.
Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce it?
Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear of
misaligning the holes.
Possible options:
1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the sides to
line up once the canopy is screwed on.
2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency.
(Dangerous!?)
3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that
engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides in
when closed.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Matt,
I have a tilt up RV-6A. When it came time to get the canopy rail aligned
with the fuselage, I used the "Fluting" pliers and simply put sufficient
crimps along the side canopy rails until they came into alignment. I left
approx 1/4" of "overhang" so that when the canopy is closed the skin of the
canopy frame comes down on the outside of the aircraft approx 1/4". Keeps
rain, wind etc from coming in through the sides.
The crimping is really not noticeable and you could cover it with upholstery
if it bothered you.
Ed A
Rv-6A N494BW
Matthews, NC
eanderson@carolina.rr.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
<RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
>
> I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame
together
> and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I
> have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs the
> side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the
passenger
> side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and I
> really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft edge
> lines up nicely.
>
> Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce
it?
> Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear of
> misaligning the holes.
>
> Possible options:
>
> 1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the sides
to
> line up once the canopy is screwed on.
> 2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency.
> (Dangerous!?)
> 3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that
> engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides in
> when closed.
>
>
> Matthew Brandes,
> Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Fluting/crimping would increase the curve of the side rails. It sounds like
Matt needs to straighten the side rails to take out some of that sideways
bulge.
Matt, if you don't have access to a metal stretcher, you can use the
hammer-and-vise method. Same technique as forming the longerons. Just put
the side rail into the vise, pull/push the way you want it to go, and whack
on it with a rubber mallet. That's how I got my canopy sides to follow the
contour of the fuselage as closely as possible.
FWIW, mine was near perfect before the plexi went on. After the plexi was
installed, it bulged here and there just like yours.
Next time I will probably make the canopy skirt overhang the fuselage side a
bit like Ed mentioned, mostly for cosmetics. It's really easy to seal the
sides from wind & rain, even without an overlapping skirt -- the overlap
just makes it look better imho.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Matt,
>
> I have a tilt up RV-6A. When it came time to get the canopy rail aligned
> with the fuselage, I used the "Fluting" pliers and simply put sufficient
> crimps along the side canopy rails until they came into alignment. I left
> approx 1/4" of "overhang" so that when the canopy is closed the skin of
the
> canopy frame comes down on the outside of the aircraft approx 1/4". Keeps
> rain, wind etc from coming in through the sides.
>
> The crimping is really not noticeable and you could cover it with
upholstery
> if it bothered you.
>
> Ed A
> Rv-6A N494BW
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv9-list@matronics.com>;
> <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
> >
> > I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame
> together
> > and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I
> > have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs
the
> > side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the
> passenger
> > side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and
I
> > really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft
edge
> > lines up nicely.
> >
> > Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce
> it?
> > Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear
of
> > misaligning the holes.
> >
> > Possible options:
> >
> > 1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the
sides
> to
> > line up once the canopy is screwed on.
> > 2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency.
> > (Dangerous!?)
> > 3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that
> > engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides
in
> > when closed.
> >
> >
> > Matthew Brandes,
> > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> > www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Local source for 2024 sheet |
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg.Puckett@united.com
Does anyone know of a local source in the Denver area to purchase 2024T3
sheet=3F=3F
I need a long strip of 2-3" wide .040 for mounting the 1/3 turn cowl
fasteners and it costs more to ship a 4x8 sheet that the sheet itself.
thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
RV-8 80081
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: oil canning? |
--> RV-List message posted by: rv6n6r@comcast.net
It seems unlikely that it would be the wingtips. People who've tried to intentionally
change the wing trim by messing with the tips generally have reported little
or no success. More likely its an aileron or some other flying or control
surface that's oil-canning. Check for that in all control surfaces. Rudder oil-canning
is pretty common and a change in rudder trim could be perceived as
aileron trim change, although I wouldn't expect it to be audible in the cockpit.
If you find oil-canning, it may only be fixable by replacing the component. I know
some people have fixed this sort of thing by injecting expanding foam but
that's something you'd want to be really careful about since it'd also change
the balance of the surface, and woud likely serve as a trap for moisture.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
-------------- Original message --------------
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp"
>
> Has any noticed an oil canning pop while flying fast? I get a change in aileron
> trim once this happens. I think it may be the old style fiberglass wing tips.
> I put some foam in one of them to keep it from falling out of shape and Im
> guessing this may be applying too much pressure in there when going fast. Just
> a theory.
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 165 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
>
>
>
>
It seems unlikely that it would be the wingtips. People who've tried to intentionally
change the wing trim by messing with the tips generally have reported little
or no success. More likely its an aileron or some other flying or control
surface that's oil-canning. Check for that in all control surfaces. Rudder oil-canning
is pretty common and a change in rudder trim could be perceived as
aileron trim change, although I wouldn't expect it to be audible in the cockpit.
If you find oil-canning, it may only be fixable by replacing the component. I know
some people have fixed this sort of thing by injecting expanding foam but
that's something you'd want to be really careful about since it'd also change
the balance of the surface, and woud likely serve as a trap for moisture.
Randall Henderson
RV-6
-------------- Original message --------------
-- RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <SHEMPDOWLING@EARTHLINK.NET>
Has any noticed an oil canning pop while flying fast? I get a change in aileron
trim once this happens. I think it may be the old style fiberglass wing tips.
I put some foam in one of them to keep it from falling out of shape and Im
guessing this may be applying too much pressure in there when going fast. Just
a theory.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
&g
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Local source for 2024 sheet |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Have you tried Univair?
Might call Bobby Green at 303-59-5829 Tell him Cy sent you.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <Greg.Puckett@united.com>
Subject: RV-List: Local source for 2024 sheet
> --> RV-List message posted by: Greg.Puckett@united.com
>
> Does anyone know of a local source in the Denver area to purchase 2024T3
> sheet=3F=3F
>
> I need a long strip of 2-3" wide .040 for mounting the 1/3 turn cowl
> fasteners and it costs more to ship a 4x8 sheet that the sheet itself.
>
> thanks,
>
>
> Greg Puckett
> Elizabeth, CO
> RV-8 80081
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo@telefonica.net>
Any good Manifold versus RPM settings or table for an RV4 and RV8 ????
Thank you.
Michel ( Spain)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Local source for 2024 sheet |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Greg,
I'm quite sure Van's will sell you whatever size you want or need, with a
charge for cutting. The shipping for a 2 or 3" wide strip or strips 48" or
less in length certainly should be far less that packing and shipping a full
sheet. You are probably going to have four pieces of the strip anyway to
get it to fit properly, so none should be longer than maybe 30". (I used
the same or similar fasteners, and I could go measure mine if that helps.)
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Seattle
Does anyone know of a local source in the Denver area to purchase 2024T3
sheet=3F=3F
I need a long strip of 2-3" wide .040 for mounting the 1/3 turn cowl
fasteners and it costs more to ship a 4x8 sheet that the sheet itself.
thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
RV-8 80081
Message 14
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| Subject: | Ray Allen Servo T2-10A |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
Thanks Gert,
I phoned today with a request to purchase another actuating arm. The
gentleman responded by saying, "Just send it in and we'll repair/replace
it for about $10." He was unconcerned about who was at fault. What a
relief!
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gert
Subject: Re: RV-List: Ray Allen Servo T2-10A
--> RV-List message posted by: gert <gert.v@sbcglobal.net>
Bill
Contact R.A.
I had a similar situation where the actuator arm got nicked rather
deeper than I liked during install, mu fault of course....
Gave'm a call and told the sad story, R.A. folks told me to ship it
back with a prepaid return container and 5 bucks.. Came back brand
new!!!!
Great folks!!!
Gert
William Gill wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "William Gill" <wgill10@comcast.net>
>
>While installing the servo for the aileron trim in an RV-7, I somehow
>managed to get the actuating arm in a bind and broke the tip off of the
>actuating arm where the clevis pin is located. I really hate to spend
>$125 for another servo when I could easily replace the actuating arm.
>Has anyone had any experience obtaining parts for these servos from Ray
>Allen? Anyone have a T2-10A servo for sale?
>
>
>Bill
>RV-7 fuse & finish
>Lee's Summit, MO
>
>
>
>
--
is subject to a download and archival fee in the amount of $500
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I'm also working on my tip up canopy (RV-6). Frame is all cleco'd together,
moving on to fwd top fuselage skin.
I also used fluting pliers to "shrink" the middle of the side frame to pull
it in to be flush with side of fuselage - was a VERY SLOW process. I
eventually took 2nd side frame to a commercial sheet metal shop and used
their BIG "shrinker" - only let the guy put about 2 gear teeths's worth of
rotation and it was enuf.
Now, with all that work, am I to understand that the weight of the plexiglas
canopy is going to cause the side frames to bow out again? If that is so,
and if it is repeatable, then shouldn't the plans (or someone's builders'
tip) tell builders to have the frame be, for example, 1/4 inch inside of
being flush, in anticipation that the plexiglas will make it bow out to be
flush?
David Carter
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
>
> Matt,
>
> I have a tilt up RV-6A. When it came time to get the canopy rail aligned
> with the fuselage, I used the "Fluting" pliers and simply put sufficient
> crimps along the side canopy rails until they came into alignment. I left
> approx 1/4" of "overhang" so that when the canopy is closed the skin of
the
> canopy frame comes down on the outside of the aircraft approx 1/4". Keeps
> rain, wind etc from coming in through the sides.
>
> The crimping is really not noticeable and you could cover it with
upholstery
> if it bothered you.
>
> Ed A
> Rv-6A N494BW
> Matthews, NC
> eanderson@carolina.rr.com
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv9-list@matronics.com>;
> <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
> Subject: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
> >
> > I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame
> together
> > and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem I
> > have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs
the
> > side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the
> passenger
> > side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much and
I
> > really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft
edge
> > lines up nicely.
> >
> > Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to reduce
> it?
> > Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear
of
> > misaligning the holes.
> >
> > Possible options:
> >
> > 1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the
sides
> to
> > line up once the canopy is screwed on.
> > 2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency.
> > (Dangerous!?)
> > 3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that
> > engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides
in
> > when closed.
> >
> >
> > Matthew Brandes,
> > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> > www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
I mis-spoke on the operations I did to make my side frames fit. I needed to
straighten it in the middle and increase curve in aft 6 inches, What
really happened was I put side frame piece in vise, then used a 1/2 inch dia
steel rod and did about "5" light taps with a hammer on the middle of the
frame - the frame relaxed(straightened) A LOT! I should have only used 1
or 2 taps at a time - "relaxing" (straightening) the frame is EASY & FAST.
To fix my boo boo, and re-curve selected spots took a LOT of SLOW fluting,
then the massive commercial shrinker to speed up the process.
- There was about a 100 to 1 ratio of effort to "add curve" vs "reduce
curve"!!!
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
> --> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
>
> I'm also working on my tip up canopy (RV-6). Frame is all cleco'd
together,
> moving on to fwd top fuselage skin.
>
> I also used fluting pliers to "shrink" the middle of the side frame to
pull
> it in to be flush with side of fuselage - was a VERY SLOW process. I
> eventually took 2nd side frame to a commercial sheet metal shop and used
> their BIG "shrinker" - only let the guy put about 2 gear teeths's worth of
> rotation and it was enuf.
>
> Now, with all that work, am I to understand that the weight of the
plexiglas
> canopy is going to cause the side frames to bow out again? If that is so,
> and if it is repeatable, then shouldn't the plans (or someone's builders'
> tip) tell builders to have the frame be, for example, 1/4 inch inside of
> being flush, in anticipation that the plexiglas will make it bow out to be
> flush?
>
> David Carter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
> >
> > Matt,
> >
> > I have a tilt up RV-6A. When it came time to get the canopy rail
aligned
> > with the fuselage, I used the "Fluting" pliers and simply put sufficient
> > crimps along the side canopy rails until they came into alignment. I
left
> > approx 1/4" of "overhang" so that when the canopy is closed the skin of
> the
> > canopy frame comes down on the outside of the aircraft approx 1/4".
Keeps
> > rain, wind etc from coming in through the sides.
> >
> > The crimping is really not noticeable and you could cover it with
> upholstery
> > if it bothered you.
> >
> > Ed A
> > Rv-6A N494BW
> > Matthews, NC
> > eanderson@carolina.rr.com
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
> > To: <rv-list@matronics.com>; <rv9-list@matronics.com>;
> > <RV-9A@yahoogroups.com>; <vansairforce@yahoogroups.com>
> > Subject: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage
> >
> >
> > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
> > >
> > > I need some ideas... I've finished riveting my tip-up canopy frame
> > together
> > > and have the canopy all drilled and temporarily attached. The problem
I
> > > have is that the canopy is flexing outward so that the frame overhangs
> the
> > > side of the fuselage. On the pilot side it sticks out 7/32", the
> > passenger
> > > side is even worse. I expected some amount of this but not as much
and
> I
> > > really don't like it. The problem is more along the middle.. the aft
> edge
> > > lines up nicely.
> > >
> > > Have others had this much of an overhang? Anything you can do to
reduce
> > it?
> > > Since the canopy is all drilled and ready I can't do too much for fear
> of
> > > misaligning the holes.
> > >
> > > Possible options:
> > >
> > > 1) Attempt to bend the frame in at the midpoint enough to allow the
> sides
> > to
> > > line up once the canopy is screwed on.
> > > 2) Heat the canopy up enough to take out the outward flexing tendency.
> > > (Dangerous!?)
> > > 3) Install some sort of pin on the bottom edge of the canopy rail that
> > > engages some sort of hole in the canopy deck that would pull the sides
> in
> > > when closed.
> > >
> > >
> > > Matthew Brandes,
> > > Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
> > > EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
> > > www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Local source for 2024 sheet |
Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 21 Feb 2005 17:08:18 -0600
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tommy Walker" <twsurveyor@msn.com>
Try www.airpartskc.com<http://www.airpartskc.com/>
Tommy Walker
6A, Ridgetop, TN
"Finishing the Finishing"
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg.Puckett@united.com<mailto:Greg.Puckett@united.com>
To: rv-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, February 21, 2005 1:50 PM
Subject: RV-List: Local source for 2024 sheet
--> RV-List message posted by: Greg.Puckett@united.com<mailto:Greg.Puckett@united.com>
Does anyone know of a local source in the Denver area to purchase 2024T3
sheet3F3F
I need a long strip of 2-3" wide .040 for mounting the 1/3 turn cowl
fasteners and it costs more to ship a 4x8 sheet that the sheet itself.
thanks,
Greg Puckett
Elizabeth, CO
RV-8 80081
Message 18
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob W M Shipley" <rob@robsglass.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Titanium Tie downs (Randy Simpson)
List message posted by: Bob <panamared3@brier.net
"I don't have his number, but I ordered and paid for mine last March and
have not received them. I think he is out of business, no response to my
latest inquiry."
I too waited months and months for mine and only after numerous emails finally
got a response.
I thought him a little flaky because of the difficulties in contacting him and
would not be surprised to hear from others that he can't be contacted at all.
Pity.
Rob
Rob W M Shipley
N919RV (res) Fuselage .....still!
La Mesa, CA. (next to San Diego)
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
Another very fast and simple way I have used - chuck my 2 inch wheel in
the die grinder. Turn the bench grinder on, and run the die grinders
wheel at a 90 degree angle to the bench's wheel. Works slick as a
whistle.
-bryan
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Richard V.
Reynolds
Subject: Re: RV-List: Dressing a Scotch Brite Wheel
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds"
<rvreynolds@macs.net>
Yes,
2X4, 1X4, 1X3 etc.about 12-18 inches long. You want to be able to hold
on to it
and apply pressure to the wheel. Tunn off the smoke detector!
Richard Reynolds
Hopperdhh@aol.com wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 2/16/05 4:40:56 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> rvreynolds@macs.net writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds"
<rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
> Try a wood 2X4.
>
> Richard Reynolds
>
> Richard,
>
> Are the dimensions critical? I mean why a 2 by 4? Are you serious
about
> using wood to dress the wheel?
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying)
>
> do not archive
>
Message 20
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom" <tomrv8@gvtc.com>
I have an O-320 D3G in my RV-4.
It currently has a Slick 4271 (impulse coupling mag). That mag bit the dust,
and I need to replace it. I have access to a 4372. Does anyone know if the
4372 is a direct replacement for the 4271 on this engine?
Thanks,
Tom Chapman
San Antonio
RV-4...1100 hours...and holding...
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 21
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
My bottle says to wear a respirator. Don't know for sure it it is necessary
if you are not working with it all the time, but why take a chance?
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of MLWynn@aol.com
Subject: Re: RV-List: Alodine safety
--> RV-List message posted by: MLWynn@aol.com
Hi all,
I am about two weeks away from my first exciting adventure with alondining.
I figure I need some heavy gloves and a chemical proof apron. I have a
respirator but didn't think that was going to be necessary. Anyone got a
good
source or recommendations for gloves and apron? Was the final consensus
that the
respirator is not necessary?
Regards,
Michael Wynn
RV-8 Empennage
San Ramon CA
Message 22
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| Subject: | Trio Ez Pilot Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same
servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a
shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the
control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this
and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I
could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this
a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the
frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an
antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Can't wait to fly this thing!!!
Message 23
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| Subject: | Trio Ez Pilot Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Aircraft Spruce, and I assume also Wicks, has shielded Tezfel wire from 8-22
AWG. They also have two and 3 conductor in 22 AWG. I would certainly use
it, particularly if you have it running back in the tail parallel and near
antenna cables.
Aside from possible interference with the radios you also don't want a bunch
of RF coupling to the servo and putting you in a hard turn when you key the
mic. Don't know how suceptible this particular system is to that, but I
have seen it happen on several different types of marine autopilots.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DEAN PSIROPOULOS
Subject: RV-List: Trio Ez Pilot Question
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
<dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same
servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a
shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the
control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this
and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I
could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this
a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the
frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an
antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Can't wait to fly this thing!!!
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