Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:41 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question (Mickey Coggins)
2. 06:13 AM - Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (Matthew Brandes)
3. 06:13 AM - Re: Mag question... (BPA)
4. 07:04 AM - Re: Trio Ez Pilot Question (Sam Buchanan)
5. 07:11 AM - Re: Mag question... (cgalley)
6. 07:30 AM - Dynon USB to serial patch cable (Shemp)
7. 07:42 AM - Pedals (Wheeler North)
8. 07:49 AM - Re: Dynon USB to serial patch cable (Dan Checkoway)
9. 08:03 AM - trio (Wheeler North)
10. 08:13 AM - Re: Pedals (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 08:28 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question (Dave Bristol)
12. 08:41 AM - circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? (Shemp)
13. 08:58 AM - Pedals (Mike Draper)
14. 09:03 AM - Navaid Autopilot for sale (Bill Dube)
15. 09:03 AM - Ez Pilot Question (Mickey Coggins)
16. 09:08 AM - For Sale: Lyc 200HP IO-360-A3B6D (Mike Mckenna)
17. 09:29 AM - Horizontal stab BooBoo.... (YonderRDC@aol.com)
18. 09:42 AM - Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? (Glaeser, Dennis A)
19. 11:45 AM - pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (sarg314)
20. 12:29 PM - Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? (linn walters)
21. 12:45 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (linn walters)
22. 01:59 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? ()
23. 02:01 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (Randy Lervold)
24. 04:00 PM - Wanted o360-A2A (Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell)
25. 04:44 PM - Re : mag question / lag angle (Martin Hone)
26. 05:45 PM - Re: Trio Ez Pilot Question (Stein Bruch)
27. 07:41 PM - Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (sarg314)
28. 07:45 PM - Air-oil Separator FYI (Duane Zavadil)
29. 09:09 PM - Re: E-Mag/P-Mag Installation requiring mounting stud replacement (Vanremog@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi Dean,
Thanks for pointing this out. I've already wired my Trio Avionics
EZ Pilot servo, but didn't notice the recommendation to use shielded
wire on the PWM line. How the heck did I miss this? Anyway...
One question for the experts - would it hurt to have all three
lines - ground, +14v, and the PWM be in the same shielded bundle?
One concern I have is that the documentation says to ground both
ends of the shield. This seems to be in conflict with Bob's
teachings. Are autopilot servos different from strobes in this
regard?
Thanks,
Mickey
>>Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same
>>servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a
>>shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line from the
>>control head to the servo. Do I need to find some shielded wire
>
>
> . . . if the manufacturer calls it out, it's a
> reasonable thing to do.
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
Prior to riveting the side rails to the tip-up frame, I had shaped them to
match the curve of the fuselage. This was actually pretty easy using Dan's
method of hammer and bench vice. One of my rails didn't need any adjusting.
The other needed quite a bit. When I riveted the side rails and the canopy
support frame, I did it taking into account the canopy sides skins and such.
Without the canopy in place, the frame sits very nicely in alignment.
I received a reply from another builder who had a similar problem and
attributed it to not enough trimming of the canopy along the forward edge to
get it to sit flush and rest on the top skin. I think this may contribute
to the problem and be part of mine. The front edge of my canopy is pretty
good but not perfect.. it doesn't sit down on the top skin by itself along
the middle.... sits up 3/32" or so. However, where the canopy passes
through the 'ears' on along the sides, the canopy is really tight and I
think this is where it is 'pushing' outward. I think if a builder were to
trim the front edge a little more, get a really good fit it might not be as
bad.
My plan at this point is too try and bend the canopy frame in a little and
to also do some shaping of the edge of the canopy where it passes through
that ear along the side. If I taper the canopy as it comes down along the
side, it won't push out as much.
I'll let everyone know how I come out.
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com <http://www.n523rv.com/>
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
Tom,
The difference between the 4271 and the 4372 is the lag angle. The 4372
is more retarded than the 4271.
Allen Barrett
Barrett Performance Aircraft, Inc.
www.bpaengines.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom
Subject: RV-List: Mag question...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom" <tomrv8@gvtc.com>
I have an O-320 D3G in my RV-4.
It currently has a Slick 4271 (impulse coupling mag). That mag bit the
dust,
and I need to replace it. I have access to a 4372. Does anyone know if
the
4372 is a direct replacement for the 4271 on this engine?
Thanks,
Tom Chapman
San Antonio
RV-4...1100 hours...and holding...
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Trio Ez Pilot Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>
> Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same
> servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a
> shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the
> control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this
> and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I
> could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this
> a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the
> frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an
> antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks.
Just as a data point, and not necessarily a recommendation, I have been
flying the Navaid servo for 630 hours with no problems using unshielded
wire. The EZ-Pilot head has likewise been totally happy with the wiring
for the past 150 hours.
Shielded wire certainly can't hurt anything, but it hasn't been
necessary in *my* installation. I used CAT5 network cable for the hookup
of my AlTrak system and it also has been free from EMI issues.
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Mag question... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
According to the Slick Master Manual, your engine should have a 4271,
4371, 4370, 4250, 4251, 4252, 4281, or 4270
The listing I find for the 4372 indicates it came off a O-235 K2A or higher
lettered model. You could e-mail
Harry Fenton at gippsaero@charter.net
Probably has something to do with the lag angle.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom" <tomrv8@gvtc.com>
Subject: RV-List: Mag question...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom" <tomrv8@gvtc.com>
>
> I have an O-320 D3G in my RV-4.
>
> It currently has a Slick 4271 (impulse coupling mag). That mag bit the
> dust,
> and I need to replace it. I have access to a 4372. Does anyone know if the
> 4372 is a direct replacement for the 4271 on this engine?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Tom Chapman
> San Antonio
> RV-4...1100 hours...and holding...
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Dynon USB to serial patch cable |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Just a quick note to those who plan on hooking up your Dynon to your pc via the
USB port. I bought brand x at CompUSA and it didn't work. I talked to the Dynon
guys who told me they really recommend the Radio Crap 26-183. OK, it says
that in the directions also. Anyway, the Radio Crap one worked great. Go figure.
Now, any suggestions on getting this thing installed? How do get your hand back
there to put the nuts on? I cant remove the instruments next to it because
they interfere with the Dynon, which will have to overlap its neighbor's. Sounds
like a fun couple of hours on my back (not that kind of fun).
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 7
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
The overhead type pedals should triangulate to a point at the bottom since
both tubes are offset.
If you move the bottoms aft or fwd a lot they will feel very different both
in position and in how the brake rocks because as the triangle racks the
pedals change length and angle unevenly with respect to your hips. This gets
more pronounced the more the pedals move away from an isoceles triangle.
I have posted a lot on these, as there is no real way to position them as
designed by Vans and not have the brakes applied slightly during full
rudder deflection. (At least my ankles don't bend that far)
FLAMERS stow it. I've tested this on over 40 aircraft now. Every time the
owner is suprised to learn they are applying brakes. Its a simple test, have
someone rock the plane while you try to deflect the rudder with the pedals.
The solution is to attach a half 2" tube split lengthwise about 6" long to
the bottom of each pedal that curves around the botton of the pedal U. A
piece of 3/4 x .125 6061 angle of the same length riveted or screwed to the
bottom of the pedal will make the attach flange. Then attach/rivet the split
tube to the 3/4 x .125 flange that now faces aft from the bottom of the
pedal.
Since the tube is now below the brake pedal pivot pushing the rudder pedal
on that part deactivates the brakes, but you can still rock to apply brakes
easily.
This also makes the pedal a lot more comfortable as the ball of your toes
tends to rest nicely on the "2 split tube.
W
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Dynon USB to serial patch cable |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Shemp,
Just relocate the port elsewhere. Wire a connector to the back of the
Dynon, and then run the wires somewhere accessible and put a connector
there.
In my case I've got about 6' of wire coming off to a connector, which I just
tie wrapped in a pigtail up under the panel. When I need to connect my
laptop, I just plug into that, or I cut down the tie wraps and pull out the
pigtail if I need more slack.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon USB to serial patch cable
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
> Just a quick note to those who plan on hooking up your Dynon to your pc
via the USB port. I bought brand x at CompUSA and it didn't work. I talked
to the Dynon guys who told me they really recommend the Radio Crap 26-183.
OK, it says that in the directions also. Anyway, the Radio Crap one worked
great. Go figure.
>
> Now, any suggestions on getting this thing installed? How do get your
hand back there to put the nuts on? I cant remove the instruments next to
it because they interfere with the Dynon, which will have to overlap its
neighbor's. Sounds like a fun couple of hours on my back (not that kind of
fun).
>
> Shemp/Jeff Dowling
> RV-6A, N915JD
> 165 hours
> Chicago/Louisville
>
>
Message 9
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same
servo) folks.
Dean,
yes shield it,
check with steinair, nice guy, good prices, does great work
http://www.steinair.com/
W
Message 10
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--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
W,
Sounds like a good idea. Could you clear up for me what the half 2" tube
is. What is it made of? I was picturing of a piece of heater hose, etc. How
much thickness have you found is needed -- from the original pedal.
Dan Hopper
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 2/22/05 10:44:12 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
wnorth@sdccd.edu writes:
The solution is to attach a half 2" tube split lengthwise about 6" long to
the bottom of each pedal that curves around the botton of the pedal U. A
piece of 3/4 x .125 6061 angle of the same length riveted or screwed to the
bottom of the pedal will make the attach flange. Then attach/rivet the split
tube to the 3/4 x .125 flange that now faces aft from the bottom of the
pedal.
W
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
With the strobe you are trying to keep the noise IN, on the servo you're
keeping it OUT. Two different things and they are treated differently.
Dave B
>One concern I have is that the documentation says to ground both
>ends of the shield. This seems to be in conflict with Bob's
>teachings. Are autopilot servos different from strobes in this
>regard?
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need
additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge
wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont
think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put
little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: Mike Draper <mdraper@nww.com>
Wheeler:
Sounds like a good fix.
A few others have also complained about the pedal geometry.
Is this similar or different from the pedal extensions on Randy Lervold's
site?
http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#IDEA:%20Rudder%20Pedal%20Extensions
<http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#IDEA:%20Rudder%20Pedal%20Extensions>
-Mike
RV-8 QB Wings
Message
<META content"MSHTML 6.00.2800.1491" nameGENERATOR>
<SPAN
class129594916-22022005>Wheeler:
<SPAN
class129594916-22022005>
Sounds like a good
fix.
<SPAN
class129594916-22022005>
A few others have
also complained about the pedal geometry.
<FONT faceArial
size2>
Is this similar or
different from the pedal extensions on Randy Lervold's site?
<FONT faceArial
size2>
<A
">http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#IDEA:%20Rudder%20Pedal%20Extensions
<FONT faceArial
size2>
<FONT faceArial
size2>-Mike
RV-8 QB
Wings
Message 14
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| Subject: | Navaid Autopilot for sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube <bdube@al.noaa.gov>
My pal Nolan has a navaid for sale. Contact him to buy it or for more
information
For Sale: Navaid AP-1 Autopilot with S-2 Servo and separate Porcine
Smart Coupler II GPS interface. I am asking $950 for the
combination. These items have never been used, they have
just been sitting on the shelf for a few years. For detailed
specs see the web site: Navaid-Devices.com .
N. V. Frederick (303) 494-9510 or
vnolan@idcomm.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Ez Pilot Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
OK, thanks for the clarification!
Mickey
> With the strobe you are trying to keep the noise IN, on the servo you're
> keeping it OUT. Two different things and they are treated differently.
>
>>One concern I have is that the documentation says to ground both
>>ends of the shield. This seems to be in conflict with Bob's
>>teachings. Are autopilot servos different from strobes in this
>>regard?
>>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 16
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| Subject: | For Sale: Lyc 200HP IO-360-A3B6D |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Mckenna" <mmckenna@bellsouth.net>
For Sale: Lyc 200HP IO-360-A3B6D. Pulled from flying Mooney M20J by Mod
Works 3/25/97.
Has been pickled since I bought it shortly there after. Includes single
drive dual mag, alternator, mechanical fuel pump, fuel servo, ignition
harness, starter, flywheel.
Engine log included and available for review. 3944 TT, 1716 SMOH $8500.
Call 770-962-7064 or email mmckenna@bellsouth.net for more info.
Mike Mckenna
Message 17
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| Subject: | Horizontal stab BooBoo.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: YonderRDC@aol.com
Hi All....I've been lurking for a couple of years and finially have a -8 QB
out in my shop and am working on the Horizontal stab....On one side of the stab
when clecoing it together prior to dimpling, rib 707 was a bit canted or out
of alignment initially and caused a small "inside-out dent" in the skin as I
tried to pull the skin in toward the rib/spar structure. Anyone else have
this happen to them.....and how did you remedy the dent.....is there a trick to
prevent it next time as I pull this together for riviting? Hope this isn't too
much of a New Guy question....Thanks for your input..
David Ward
RV-8 QB empenage
N100DW (reserved)
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" <dennis.glaeser@eds.com>
I don't think you need to protect the individual lights. If one of them
shorts out, it will draw more power from the dimmer, and it will pop the CB.
Size the CB for the wires powering the dimmer (or size the wire for the CB),
and make sure the wires to the bulbs don't rub against anything sharp :-)
Dennis Glaeser
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net
<mailto:shempdowling@earthlink.net?subject=Re:%20circuit%20breakers%20for%20
Vans%20tiny%20lights?&replyto=200502221640.j1MGekd06794@matronics.com> >
I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering
if I need
additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure
what gauge
wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty
small. I dont
think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b.
Should I put
little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something
smaller?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2657.73">
Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights?
I don't think you need to protect the individual lights. If one of them shorts
out, it will draw more power from the dimmer, and it will pop the CB. Size the
CB for the wires powering the dimmer (or size the wire for the CB), and make
sure the wires to the bulbs don't rub against anything sharp :-)
Dennis Glaeser
-- RV-List message posted by: Shemp shempdowling@earthlink.net
I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need
additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge
wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont
think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put
little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Message 19
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| Subject: | pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg.
adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am
wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine
rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings
installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at
Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the
conservative way to go is steel.
Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does
it tend to sieze, or leak?
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Shemp wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>
>I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need
additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge
wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont
think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I
put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller?
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>165 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
>
This is what I do .... YMMV! I add up the load .... you can compute the
amps if you know the watts of the bulb ....add 50% for margin and go
with it. If you had done your homework (no flame here) you'd have
already used that figure to size your wire .... and no, bigger wire
isn't necessarily better ..... and breaker. Since 'small' is a
subjective term (hold that wire next to your battery cable :-) ) it's
hard to say whether it's sized correctly. You've already made the
determination that the CB is there to protect the wire, not the load, so
you need to size the CB accordingly. Not knowing how many and what
size bulbs, it's hard to recommend something.
Linn
do not archive
>
>
>
>
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Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
sarg314 wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
>I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg.
>adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am
>wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine
>rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings
>installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at
>Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the
>conservative way to go is steel.
>
>Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does
>it tend to sieze, or leak?
>
>--
>Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
>
Neither. The word I get is that steel is used under the cowl because AL
melts at a lower temperature. That's the downside. However, aluminum
is lighter and doesn't affect your compass. Upside. Now, which is
better. Depends on your definition of acceptable risk. I have AL fittings.
Linn
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Tom,
Both are used. Conservative folks use steel for it's added strength. The shaking
of your Laucosaurus Paint mixing machine has been known to cause the aluminum
fittings to crack right where the pipe threading ends. It's not a common failure,
but if it happens to you, it means an engine overhaul. (if you manage to
land OK)
Plenty of folks out there are using aluminum wihout problems. A middle ground
might be to use aluminum and change out the fittings every, say, 5 years.
Charlie Kuss
---- sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
>
> I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg.
> adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am
> wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine
> rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings
> installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at
> Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the
> conservative way to go is steel.
>
> Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does
> it tend to sieze, or leak?
>
> --
> Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg.
> adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am
> wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine
> rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings
> installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at
> Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the
> conservative way to go is steel.
>
> Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does
> it tend to sieze, or leak?
The general rule I've followed is to use steel if it's attached to the
engine and aluminum everywhere else. This makes sense due to the vibration
and heat they must endure if attached directly to the engine. Bart used all
steel fittings on my engine also, but I see no reason not to use AL on the
the firewall and oil cooler.
Randy Lervold
Message 24
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" <caldwel@ictransnet.com>
I'm look for an O360-A2A. Anyone have one for sale
Roger
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re : mag question / lag angle |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" <mctrader@bigpond.net.au>
G'day Tom,
I believe Cy is correct, in that the difference in the two mags would be
down to the lag angle. A recent email from Harry Fenton explained 'lag
angle' thus....
"Lag angle is pretty basic- it is the angular difference (or "delta")
between the static firing point of the magneto versus the point where the
impulse coupling delays the firing for starting. For example- the 4371
magneto on your engine has a 20 degree lag. The static firing point when
the engine is running is 25 degrees. Therefore, the impulse coupling on
your mag should fire the mag about 5 degrees BTDC. Sort of.
The lag angle is calculated at an engine cranking speed of 50-75 rpm. If
you pull the prop through by hand at less than 75 rpm, then the lag of the
mag may not match the lag angle. Due to friction, oil viscosity,
taildragger stance, the coupling may drag and fire a bit late. Conversely,
a fast turning starter may spin the mag so fast that the impulse coupling
disengages prior to start. Very common with low compression engines fitted
with wood or composite props and high torque starter.
The internal timing, or E-gap of the mag will also affect lag angle. E-gap
is a physical positioning of the magnets of the rotor. The coupling is
keyed to the rotor. If the E-gap is off, then the physical positioning of
the coupling will shift."
Hope this helps
Martin in Oz
Message 26
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| Subject: | Trio Ez Pilot Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Just an FYI, but that's a stock wire for us, it's fairly reasonably priced, and
all the production EZ pilot harnesses we make come with either 3 or 4 wire shielded
tefzel wire as standard for this autopilot.
Cheers,
Stein.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
>Aircraft Spruce, and I assume also Wicks, has shielded Tezfel wire from 8-22
>AWG. They also have two and 3 conductor in 22 AWG. I would certainly use
>it, particularly if you have it running back in the tail parallel and near
>antenna cables.
>
>Aside from possible interference with the radios you also don't want a bunch
>of RF coupling to the servo and putting you in a hard turn when you key the
>mic. Don't know how suceptible this particular system is to that, but I
>have seen it happen on several different types of marine autopilots.
>
>Brian Kraut
>Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
>www.engalt.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DEAN PSIROPOULOS
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Trio Ez Pilot Question
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
><dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>
>Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same
>servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a
>shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the
>control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this
>and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I
>could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this
>a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the
>frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an
>antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Can't wait to fly this thing!!!
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 <sarg314@comcast.net>
Matthew:
That tip-up frame gave me fits. There must be a better way to
design that thing.
How does the frame fit to the fuselage when the plexiglass is not
installed? I ask because I have a hard time believing the plexi will
not just match to the frame. It's very compliant on a distance scale
of about 1/4" and the frame should be pretty stiff once its all rivetted
together.
If the frame hangs over the edge without the plexi installed, then
you have to bend the side rails in. That will extend it's length a bit,
which may give you some clearance problems back at the roll bar, but
that may be tolerable.
--
Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine
Message 28
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| Subject: | Air-oil Separator FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Zavadil" <dzavadil@hometownaccess.net>
I have a small reservoir, a purpose-made flat can, that catches oil from the air-oil
separator (it services the crankcase vent and a wet vac pump). I drain it
whenever I change oil and there is never more than an eight cup in there. It
apparently has been corroding some time as it let go via a small hole in the
base during a one-hour flight and it totally drained. Oil everywhere, including
the exhaust and it looked pretty serious until I found the source - which
was not easy with oil everywhere and the true source exhausted. I'll be putting
something more corosion resistant back in.
Sent via the WebMail system at hometownaccess.net
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: E-Mag/P-Mag Installation requiring mounting stud replacement |
--> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com
I knew that sooner or later I would have to come up some pretty dumb
questions in areas where my expertise is lacking.....so here goes.
To those of you who have installed the E-Mag or P-Mag in place of the
original impulse coupled magneto (left position) on the Lycoming, did you find
that
the two mounting studs (2.375" long) came out easily enough with the cam
type removal tools and were the 31C-12 studs (1.5" long) that the right side
position uses a good fit as replacement? I am performing the steps outlined in
the E-mag installation and it is the same as performing steps 1 and 2 of
Lycoming Service Bulletin 1506.
I need to order these studs from Sacramento Sky Ranch and want to know if I
will need the oversized ones or not. I'm new to removing steel studs from
aluminum alloy and am not sure what to expect. Does Lycoming put these in with
any compound? I want to ensure that I'm doing it correctly, so should I use
a good heat gun on the surrounding aluminum and freeze spray on the stud?
Any tips or other useful observations are greatly appreciated.
TIA
GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)
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