---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Tue 02/22/05: 29 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:41 AM - Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question (Mickey Coggins) 2. 06:13 AM - Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (Matthew Brandes) 3. 06:13 AM - Re: Mag question... (BPA) 4. 07:04 AM - Re: Trio Ez Pilot Question (Sam Buchanan) 5. 07:11 AM - Re: Mag question... (cgalley) 6. 07:30 AM - Dynon USB to serial patch cable (Shemp) 7. 07:42 AM - Pedals (Wheeler North) 8. 07:49 AM - Re: Dynon USB to serial patch cable (Dan Checkoway) 9. 08:03 AM - trio (Wheeler North) 10. 08:13 AM - Re: Pedals (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 11. 08:28 AM - Re: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question (Dave Bristol) 12. 08:41 AM - circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? (Shemp) 13. 08:58 AM - Pedals (Mike Draper) 14. 09:03 AM - Navaid Autopilot for sale (Bill Dube) 15. 09:03 AM - Ez Pilot Question (Mickey Coggins) 16. 09:08 AM - For Sale: Lyc 200HP IO-360-A3B6D (Mike Mckenna) 17. 09:29 AM - Horizontal stab BooBoo.... (YonderRDC@aol.com) 18. 09:42 AM - Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? (Glaeser, Dennis A) 19. 11:45 AM - pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (sarg314) 20. 12:29 PM - Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? (linn walters) 21. 12:45 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (linn walters) 22. 01:59 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? () 23. 02:01 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (Randy Lervold) 24. 04:00 PM - Wanted o360-A2A (Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell) 25. 04:44 PM - Re : mag question / lag angle (Martin Hone) 26. 05:45 PM - Re: Trio Ez Pilot Question (Stein Bruch) 27. 07:41 PM - Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (sarg314) 28. 07:45 PM - Air-oil Separator FYI (Duane Zavadil) 29. 09:09 PM - Re: E-Mag/P-Mag Installation requiring mounting stud replacement (Vanremog@aol.com) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:41:00 AM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins Hi Dean, Thanks for pointing this out. I've already wired my Trio Avionics EZ Pilot servo, but didn't notice the recommendation to use shielded wire on the PWM line. How the heck did I miss this? Anyway... One question for the experts - would it hurt to have all three lines - ground, +14v, and the PWM be in the same shielded bundle? One concern I have is that the documentation says to ground both ends of the shield. This seems to be in conflict with Bob's teachings. Are autopilot servos different from strobes in this regard? Thanks, Mickey >>Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same >>servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a >>shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line from the >>control head to the servo. Do I need to find some shielded wire > > > . . . if the manufacturer calls it out, it's a > reasonable thing to do. -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:13:12 AM PST US From: "Matthew Brandes" Subject: RV-List: Re: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage --> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" Prior to riveting the side rails to the tip-up frame, I had shaped them to match the curve of the fuselage. This was actually pretty easy using Dan's method of hammer and bench vice. One of my rails didn't need any adjusting. The other needed quite a bit. When I riveted the side rails and the canopy support frame, I did it taking into account the canopy sides skins and such. Without the canopy in place, the frame sits very nicely in alignment. I received a reply from another builder who had a similar problem and attributed it to not enough trimming of the canopy along the forward edge to get it to sit flush and rest on the top skin. I think this may contribute to the problem and be part of mine. The front edge of my canopy is pretty good but not perfect.. it doesn't sit down on the top skin by itself along the middle.... sits up 3/32" or so. However, where the canopy passes through the 'ears' on along the sides, the canopy is really tight and I think this is where it is 'pushing' outward. I think if a builder were to trim the front edge a little more, get a really good fit it might not be as bad. My plan at this point is too try and bend the canopy frame in a little and to also do some shaping of the edge of the canopy where it passes through that ear along the side. If I taper the canopy as it comes down along the side, it won't push out as much. I'll let everyone know how I come out. Matthew Brandes, Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit) EAA Chapter 868/91/1329 www.n523rv.com ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:13:43 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV-List: Mag question... From: "BPA" --> RV-List message posted by: "BPA" Tom, The difference between the 4271 and the 4372 is the lag angle. The 4372 is more retarded than the 4271. Allen Barrett Barrett Performance Aircraft, Inc. www.bpaengines.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tom Subject: RV-List: Mag question... --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom" I have an O-320 D3G in my RV-4. It currently has a Slick 4271 (impulse coupling mag). That mag bit the dust, and I need to replace it. I have access to a 4372. Does anyone know if the 4372 is a direct replacement for the 4271 on this engine? Thanks, Tom Chapman San Antonio RV-4...1100 hours...and holding... -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:04:48 AM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Trio Ez Pilot Question --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan DEAN PSIROPOULOS wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > > > Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same > servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a > shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the > control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this > and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I > could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this > a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the > frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an > antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks. Just as a data point, and not necessarily a recommendation, I have been flying the Navaid servo for 630 hours with no problems using unshielded wire. The EZ-Pilot head has likewise been totally happy with the wiring for the past 150 hours. Shielded wire certainly can't hurt anything, but it hasn't been necessary in *my* installation. I used CAT5 network cable for the hookup of my AlTrak system and it also has been free from EMI issues. Sam Buchanan http://thervjournal.com ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:11:07 AM PST US From: "cgalley" Subject: Re: RV-List: Mag question... --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" According to the Slick Master Manual, your engine should have a 4271, 4371, 4370, 4250, 4251, 4252, 4281, or 4270 The listing I find for the 4372 indicates it came off a O-235 K2A or higher lettered model. You could e-mail Harry Fenton at gippsaero@charter.net Probably has something to do with the lag angle. Cy Galley - Chair, AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair A Service Project of Chapter 75 EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tom" Subject: RV-List: Mag question... > --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom" > > I have an O-320 D3G in my RV-4. > > It currently has a Slick 4271 (impulse coupling mag). That mag bit the > dust, > and I need to replace it. I have access to a 4372. Does anyone know if the > 4372 is a direct replacement for the 4271 on this engine? > > Thanks, > > Tom Chapman > San Antonio > RV-4...1100 hours...and holding... > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 07:30:48 AM PST US From: "Shemp" Subject: RV-List: Dynon USB to serial patch cable --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" Just a quick note to those who plan on hooking up your Dynon to your pc via the USB port. I bought brand x at CompUSA and it didn't work. I talked to the Dynon guys who told me they really recommend the Radio Crap 26-183. OK, it says that in the directions also. Anyway, the Radio Crap one worked great. Go figure. Now, any suggestions on getting this thing installed? How do get your hand back there to put the nuts on? I cant remove the instruments next to it because they interfere with the Dynon, which will have to overlap its neighbor's. Sounds like a fun couple of hours on my back (not that kind of fun). Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:42:39 AM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: Pedals --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North The overhead type pedals should triangulate to a point at the bottom since both tubes are offset. If you move the bottoms aft or fwd a lot they will feel very different both in position and in how the brake rocks because as the triangle racks the pedals change length and angle unevenly with respect to your hips. This gets more pronounced the more the pedals move away from an isoceles triangle. I have posted a lot on these, as there is no real way to position them as designed by Vans and not have the brakes applied slightly during full rudder deflection. (At least my ankles don't bend that far) FLAMERS stow it. I've tested this on over 40 aircraft now. Every time the owner is suprised to learn they are applying brakes. Its a simple test, have someone rock the plane while you try to deflect the rudder with the pedals. The solution is to attach a half 2" tube split lengthwise about 6" long to the bottom of each pedal that curves around the botton of the pedal U. A piece of 3/4 x .125 6061 angle of the same length riveted or screwed to the bottom of the pedal will make the attach flange. Then attach/rivet the split tube to the 3/4 x .125 flange that now faces aft from the bottom of the pedal. Since the tube is now below the brake pedal pivot pushing the rudder pedal on that part deactivates the brakes, but you can still rock to apply brakes easily. This also makes the pedal a lot more comfortable as the ball of your toes tends to rest nicely on the "2 split tube. W ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:49:36 AM PST US From: "Dan Checkoway" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dynon USB to serial patch cable --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" Shemp, Just relocate the port elsewhere. Wire a connector to the back of the Dynon, and then run the wires somewhere accessible and put a connector there. In my case I've got about 6' of wire coming off to a connector, which I just tie wrapped in a pigtail up under the panel. When I need to connect my laptop, I just plug into that, or I cut down the tie wraps and pull out the pigtail if I need more slack. )_( Dan RV-7 N714D http://www.rvproject.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shemp" Subject: RV-List: Dynon USB to serial patch cable > --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > > Just a quick note to those who plan on hooking up your Dynon to your pc via the USB port. I bought brand x at CompUSA and it didn't work. I talked to the Dynon guys who told me they really recommend the Radio Crap 26-183. OK, it says that in the directions also. Anyway, the Radio Crap one worked great. Go figure. > > Now, any suggestions on getting this thing installed? How do get your hand back there to put the nuts on? I cant remove the instruments next to it because they interfere with the Dynon, which will have to overlap its neighbor's. Sounds like a fun couple of hours on my back (not that kind of fun). > > Shemp/Jeff Dowling > RV-6A, N915JD > 165 hours > Chicago/Louisville > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:03:54 AM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: trio --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same servo) folks. Dean, yes shield it, check with steinair, nice guy, good prices, does great work http://www.steinair.com/ W ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:13:50 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Pedals --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com W, Sounds like a good idea. Could you clear up for me what the half 2" tube is. What is it made of? I was picturing of a piece of heater hose, etc. How much thickness have you found is needed -- from the original pedal. Dan Hopper RV-7A (Flying) In a message dated 2/22/05 10:44:12 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time, wnorth@sdccd.edu writes: The solution is to attach a half 2" tube split lengthwise about 6" long to the bottom of each pedal that curves around the botton of the pedal U. A piece of 3/4 x .125 6061 angle of the same length riveted or screwed to the bottom of the pedal will make the attach flange. Then attach/rivet the split tube to the 3/4 x .125 flange that now faces aft from the bottom of the pedal. W ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:28:22 AM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Re: AeroElectric-List: Ex Pilot Question --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol With the strobe you are trying to keep the noise IN, on the servo you're keeping it OUT. Two different things and they are treated differently. Dave B >One concern I have is that the documentation says to ground both >ends of the shield. This seems to be in conflict with Bob's >teachings. Are autopilot servos different from strobes in this >regard? > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 08:41:37 AM PST US From: "Shemp" Subject: RV-List: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller? Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 08:58:33 AM PST US From: Mike Draper Subject: RV-List: Pedals --> RV-List message posted by: Mike Draper Wheeler: Sounds like a good fix. A few others have also complained about the pedal geometry. Is this similar or different from the pedal extensions on Randy Lervold's site? http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#IDEA:%20Rudder%20Pedal%20Extensions -Mike RV-8 QB Wings Message Wheeler: Sounds like a good fix. A few others have also complained about the pedal geometry. Is this similar or different from the pedal extensions on Randy Lervold's site? http://www.rv-8.com/IdeasProducts.htm#IDEA:%20Rudder%20Pedal%20Extensions -Mike RV-8 QB Wings ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:03:04 AM PST US From: Bill Dube Subject: RV-List: Navaid Autopilot for sale --> RV-List message posted by: Bill Dube My pal Nolan has a navaid for sale. Contact him to buy it or for more information For Sale: Navaid AP-1 Autopilot with S-2 Servo and separate Porcine Smart Coupler II GPS interface. I am asking $950 for the combination. These items have never been used, they have just been sitting on the shelf for a few years. For detailed specs see the web site: Navaid-Devices.com . N. V. Frederick (303) 494-9510 or vnolan@idcomm.com ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 09:03:52 AM PST US From: Mickey Coggins Subject: RV-List: Ez Pilot Question --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins OK, thanks for the clarification! Mickey > With the strobe you are trying to keep the noise IN, on the servo you're > keeping it OUT. Two different things and they are treated differently. > >>One concern I have is that the documentation says to ground both >>ends of the shield. This seems to be in conflict with Bob's >>teachings. Are autopilot servos different from strobes in this >>regard? >> -- Mickey Coggins http://www.rv8.ch/ #82007 Wiring ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 09:08:33 AM PST US From: "Mike Mckenna" Subject: RV-List: For Sale: Lyc 200HP IO-360-A3B6D --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Mckenna" For Sale: Lyc 200HP IO-360-A3B6D. Pulled from flying Mooney M20J by Mod Works 3/25/97. Has been pickled since I bought it shortly there after. Includes single drive dual mag, alternator, mechanical fuel pump, fuel servo, ignition harness, starter, flywheel. Engine log included and available for review. 3944 TT, 1716 SMOH $8500. Call 770-962-7064 or email mmckenna@bellsouth.net for more info. Mike Mckenna ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 09:29:17 AM PST US From: YonderRDC@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Horizontal stab BooBoo.... --> RV-List message posted by: YonderRDC@aol.com Hi All....I've been lurking for a couple of years and finially have a -8 QB out in my shop and am working on the Horizontal stab....On one side of the stab when clecoing it together prior to dimpling, rib 707 was a bit canted or out of alignment initially and caused a small "inside-out dent" in the skin as I tried to pull the skin in toward the rib/spar structure. Anyone else have this happen to them.....and how did you remedy the dent.....is there a trick to prevent it next time as I pull this together for riviting? Hope this isn't too much of a New Guy question....Thanks for your input.. David Ward RV-8 QB empenage N100DW (reserved) ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 09:42:54 AM PST US From: "Glaeser, Dennis A" Subject: RV-List: Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? --> RV-List message posted by: "Glaeser, Dennis A" I don't think you need to protect the individual lights. If one of them shorts out, it will draw more power from the dimmer, and it will pop the CB. Size the CB for the wires powering the dimmer (or size the wire for the CB), and make sure the wires to the bulbs don't rub against anything sharp :-) Dennis Glaeser --> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller? Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? I don't think you need to protect the individual lights. If one of them shorts out, it will draw more power from the dimmer, and it will pop the CB. Size the CB for the wires powering the dimmer (or size the wire for the CB), and make sure the wires to the bulbs don't rub against anything sharp :-) Dennis Glaeser -- RV-List message posted by: Shemp shempdowling@earthlink.net I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller? Shemp/Jeff Dowling RV-6A, N915JD 165 hours Chicago/Louisville ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 11:45:36 AM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg. adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the conservative way to go is steel. Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does it tend to sieze, or leak? -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 12:29:07 PM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters Shemp wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" > >I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b. Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something smaller? > >Shemp/Jeff Dowling >RV-6A, N915JD >165 hours >Chicago/Louisville > This is what I do .... YMMV! I add up the load .... you can compute the amps if you know the watts of the bulb ....add 50% for margin and go with it. If you had done your homework (no flame here) you'd have already used that figure to size your wire .... and no, bigger wire isn't necessarily better ..... and breaker. Since 'small' is a subjective term (hold that wire next to your battery cable :-) ) it's hard to say whether it's sized correctly. You've already made the determination that the CB is there to protect the wire, not the load, so you need to size the CB accordingly. Not knowing how many and what size bulbs, it's hard to recommend something. Linn do not archive > > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 12:45:29 PM PST US From: linn walters Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters sarg314 wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 > >I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg. >adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am >wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine >rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings >installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at >Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the >conservative way to go is steel. > >Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does >it tend to sieze, or leak? > >-- >Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine > Neither. The word I get is that steel is used under the cowl because AL melts at a lower temperature. That's the downside. However, aluminum is lighter and doesn't affect your compass. Upside. Now, which is better. Depends on your definition of acceptable risk. I have AL fittings. Linn do not archive > > > > -- No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Anti-Virus. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 01:59:57 PM PST US From: Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? --> RV-List message posted by: Tom, Both are used. Conservative folks use steel for it's added strength. The shaking of your Laucosaurus Paint mixing machine has been known to cause the aluminum fittings to crack right where the pipe threading ends. It's not a common failure, but if it happens to you, it means an engine overhaul. (if you manage to land OK) Plenty of folks out there are using aluminum wihout problems. A middle ground might be to use aluminum and change out the fittings every, say, 5 years. Charlie Kuss ---- sarg314 wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 > > I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg. > adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am > wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine > rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings > installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at > Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the > conservative way to go is steel. > > Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does > it tend to sieze, or leak? > > -- > Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 02:01:40 PM PST US From: "Randy Lervold" Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? --> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" > I am about to install some of the AN816 pipe thread to AN 37 deg. > adapters in my engine (for oil to the cooler, for instance) and am > wondering if I should use aluminum fittings or steel. My engine > rebuilder (Bart LaLonde) delivered the engine with one or two fittings > installed and he used steel. An A&P I asked said Aluminum is OK. Ken at > Vans says there is some difference of opinion on this and the > conservative way to go is steel. > > Does any one know what the putative downside of using aluminum is? Does > it tend to sieze, or leak? The general rule I've followed is to use steel if it's attached to the engine and aluminum everywhere else. This makes sense due to the vibration and heat they must endure if attached directly to the engine. Bart used all steel fittings on my engine also, but I see no reason not to use AL on the the firewall and oil cooler. Randy Lervold ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 04:00:24 PM PST US From: "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" Subject: RV-List: Wanted o360-A2A --> RV-List message posted by: "Lapsley R & Sandra E. Caldwell" I'm look for an O360-A2A. Anyone have one for sale Roger ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 04:44:50 PM PST US From: "Martin Hone" Subject: RV-List: Re : mag question / lag angle --> RV-List message posted by: "Martin Hone" G'day Tom, I believe Cy is correct, in that the difference in the two mags would be down to the lag angle. A recent email from Harry Fenton explained 'lag angle' thus.... "Lag angle is pretty basic- it is the angular difference (or "delta") between the static firing point of the magneto versus the point where the impulse coupling delays the firing for starting. For example- the 4371 magneto on your engine has a 20 degree lag. The static firing point when the engine is running is 25 degrees. Therefore, the impulse coupling on your mag should fire the mag about 5 degrees BTDC. Sort of. The lag angle is calculated at an engine cranking speed of 50-75 rpm. If you pull the prop through by hand at less than 75 rpm, then the lag of the mag may not match the lag angle. Due to friction, oil viscosity, taildragger stance, the coupling may drag and fire a bit late. Conversely, a fast turning starter may spin the mag so fast that the impulse coupling disengages prior to start. Very common with low compression engines fitted with wood or composite props and high torque starter. The internal timing, or E-gap of the mag will also affect lag angle. E-gap is a physical positioning of the magnets of the rotor. The coupling is keyed to the rotor. If the E-gap is off, then the physical positioning of the coupling will shift." Hope this helps Martin in Oz ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 05:45:09 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Trio Ez Pilot Question --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" Just an FYI, but that's a stock wire for us, it's fairly reasonably priced, and all the production EZ pilot harnesses we make come with either 3 or 4 wire shielded tefzel wire as standard for this autopilot. Cheers, Stein. ---------- Original Message ---------------------------------- From: "Brian Kraut" >--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" > >Aircraft Spruce, and I assume also Wicks, has shielded Tezfel wire from 8-22 >AWG. They also have two and 3 conductor in 22 AWG. I would certainly use >it, particularly if you have it running back in the tail parallel and near >antenna cables. > >Aside from possible interference with the radios you also don't want a bunch >of RF coupling to the servo and putting you in a hard turn when you key the >mic. Don't know how suceptible this particular system is to that, but I >have seen it happen on several different types of marine autopilots. > >Brian Kraut >Engineering Alternatives, Inc. >www.engalt.com > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DEAN PSIROPOULOS >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: Trio Ez Pilot Question > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" > > > >Question for the Trio Ez Pilot and Navaid (since they use basically the same >servo) folks. The installation instructions for the Ez Pilot recommend a >shielded wire for the PWM (servo movement commands)signal line (from the >control head to the servo). Do I need to find some shielded wire for this >and what should I use? Is there a Tefzel or MIL-SPEC coaxial cable that I >could/should use? What gauge would it be and where would I get it? Is this >a big deal or could I just use an unshielded wire here? What is the >frequency of the pulse width modulation that Trio uses? Would it be an >antagonist to my radios and audio system? Thanks. > >Dean Psiropoulos >RV-6A N197DM >Can't wait to fly this thing!!! > > ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 07:41:21 PM PST US From: sarg314 Subject: Re: RV-List: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage --> RV-List message posted by: sarg314 Matthew: That tip-up frame gave me fits. There must be a better way to design that thing. How does the frame fit to the fuselage when the plexiglass is not installed? I ask because I have a hard time believing the plexi will not just match to the frame. It's very compliant on a distance scale of about 1/4" and the frame should be pretty stiff once its all rivetted together. If the frame hangs over the edge without the plexi installed, then you have to bend the side rails in. That will extend it's length a bit, which may give you some clearance problems back at the roll bar, but that may be tolerable. -- Tom Sargent, RV-6A, engine ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 07:45:54 PM PST US From: "Duane Zavadil" Subject: RV-List: Air-oil Separator FYI --> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Zavadil" I have a small reservoir, a purpose-made flat can, that catches oil from the air-oil separator (it services the crankcase vent and a wet vac pump). I drain it whenever I change oil and there is never more than an eight cup in there. It apparently has been corroding some time as it let go via a small hole in the base during a one-hour flight and it totally drained. Oil everywhere, including the exhaust and it looked pretty serious until I found the source - which was not easy with oil everywhere and the true source exhausted. I'll be putting something more corosion resistant back in. Sent via the WebMail system at hometownaccess.net ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 09:09:57 PM PST US From: Vanremog@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: E-Mag/P-Mag Installation requiring mounting stud replacement --> RV-List message posted by: Vanremog@aol.com I knew that sooner or later I would have to come up some pretty dumb questions in areas where my expertise is lacking.....so here goes. To those of you who have installed the E-Mag or P-Mag in place of the original impulse coupled magneto (left position) on the Lycoming, did you find that the two mounting studs (2.375" long) came out easily enough with the cam type removal tools and were the 31C-12 studs (1.5" long) that the right side position uses a good fit as replacement? I am performing the steps outlined in the E-mag installation and it is the same as performing steps 1 and 2 of Lycoming Service Bulletin 1506. I need to order these studs from Sacramento Sky Ranch and want to know if I will need the oversized ones or not. I'm new to removing steel studs from aluminum alloy and am not sure what to expect. Does Lycoming put these in with any compound? I want to ensure that I'm doing it correctly, so should I use a good heat gun on the surrounding aluminum and freeze spray on the stud? Any tips or other useful observations are greatly appreciated. TIA GV (RV-6A N1GV O-360-A1A, C/S, Flying 736hrs, Silicon Valley, CA)