Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:06 AM - Re: O360 settings (Richard V. Reynolds)
2. 04:11 AM - i39, Richmond, KY Flyin ON!! (Dana Overall)
3. 05:11 AM - Re: Pedals (Alex Peterson)
4. 05:45 AM - Re: Air-oil Separator FYI (linn walters)
5. 06:01 AM - Re: Horizontal stab BooBoo.... (DAVID REEL)
6. 06:45 AM - Re: O360 settings (David Bobrow)
7. 07:26 AM - Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? (Shemp)
8. 07:31 AM - Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
9. 07:41 AM - Re: Air-oil Separator FYI (Shemp)
10. 08:22 AM - Re: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals (Skylor Piper)
11. 08:58 AM - -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals (Bryan Jones)
12. 10:40 AM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (HCRV6@aol.com)
13. 01:02 PM - stud install (Wheeler North)
14. 01:23 PM - Update: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (Matthew Brandes)
15. 01:27 PM - Re: stud install (Dan Checkoway)
16. 02:26 PM - Re: Update: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
17. 02:33 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (cgalley)
18. 02:36 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
19. 03:13 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (cgalley)
20. 03:48 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (Jim Jewell)
21. 03:56 PM - (Mark Rose)
22. 04:17 PM - Re: (Terry Watson)
23. 04:39 PM - Re: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals (Dave Bristol)
24. 05:22 PM - Stick bend (Mark Rose)
25. 06:21 PM - Re: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals (Bryan Jones)
26. 06:34 PM - Re: {SPAM} Re: Air-oil Separator FYI (Duane Zavadil)
27. 07:12 PM - Alodine after riveting (Brian Kraut)
28. 07:29 PM - Re: Alodine after riveting (Kyle Boatright)
29. 08:22 PM - Re: (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
30. 08:36 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (Gordon or Marge Comfort)
31. 09:46 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (Jim Jewell)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: O360 settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
Manifold Pressure vs RPM vs Horsepower curves are in the Lycoming Owners Manual.
If
you do not have one, order it from Lycoming. Everything you need to know about
operating your engine is in there..
Typically, 2400 RPM at 24 in Hg equals 75% Horsepower.
If you want HP (in Hg) versus speed, you need to develop the data from your flight
test.
Richard Reynolds
RV-6A O-360-A1A CS
Michel Gordillo wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Michel Gordillo" <michelgordillo@telefonica.net>
>
> Any good Manifold versus RPM settings or table for an RV4 and RV8 ????
> Thank you.
> Michel ( Spain)
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | i39, Richmond, KY Flyin ON!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dana Overall" <bo124rs@hotmail.com>
OK, like you didn't know it before but we are ON for this Saturday!! Just a
heads up, the army depot airspace has been relaxed but do yourself a favor,
and me. If you are coming from the north, stay west of the City or
Richmond, from the south stay west of the City of Berea, from the east just
overfly Richmond or Berea and keep interstate I-75 to the east of you.
Remember i39.
Heard a request from down TN way about air traffic. For those who did not
attend last year, we had well in excess of 100 airplanes, I stopped counting
RVs at 87 by noon. The air was full of "inbound flight of 3, behind the
flight of 7, behind the flight of 2 entering downwind, which is behind
the.............................gaggle of RV turning base not counting those
on final", anyway you get the drift. It is an uncontrolled airspace without
any formal NOTAMs so treat is as such and keep your head turning. If we are
landing on 36, try and make the turnoff, you will have something like 1500'
plus to keep from back taxiing. If you can't, hustle on back. People will
be on the taxiway to direct you to the ramp or taxiway for parking. Parking
on the taxiway grass is "pick your own spot" but try and tuck it up as close
as you can, as we just about filled up the taxiway last year. Ramp parking
is first come first serve except for the formation flyers of TeamRV and
OVRVators. Once again you are asked to tuck it up but be safe, you are
responsible for your own aircraft. Bring along chocks, forget tiedowns on
the ramp but OK for taxiway parking.
I have commitments from about 60 RVs so far and I didn't ask for RSVPs.
That's about what I had last year and we had close to 100 total RVs attend.
I did see some weather that will be to the southeast of us but the forecast
for Sat. at i39 is clear on Friday, clear on Sat. with temp of 48, 10%
chance of precip, 52 on Sunday with 0% precip. Looks like we have a great
window.
Food. Here is the good part...........sorry wives (Elaine made me say
that). Hooters called yesterday to confirm 1000 wings and two Hooters girls
(still trying to sch. the two girls). My answer was, $#@% #$&7 @%#$* YES,
you plug in anything you want:-) The food will be free, all I ask is you
tip the girls (not literally) and donate to the hat. If I come up short on
funds, no big deal but it does cost some money to put this on and I am
building a new log home (gotta get the funds any legal way possible man!!).
Bring it on gang, I'M READY!!!!!!
Got another door prize donation from Jim Wright, thanks Jim and all the
other listed contributors.
www.aero-mold.com a 4 piece set of RV pedals with hardware
http://steinair.com
http://www.aircraftextras.com/FPS-Plus.htm- one push flap operations
engalt.com/aviation.htm-post light system
Anywhere Map-total software package
Avery Tools
Van's aircraft
Fairings-Etc.com
Dana Overall
Richmond, KY i39
RV-7 slider, Imron black, "Black Magic"
Finish kit
13B Rotary. Hangar flying my Dynon.
http://rvflying.tripod.com/
http://rvflying.tripod.com/blackrudder.jpg
do not archive
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Alex Peterson" <alexpeterson@earthlink.net>
> FLAMERS stow it. I've tested this on over 40 aircraft now.
> Every time the owner is suprised to learn they are applying
> brakes. Its a simple test, have someone rock the plane while
> you try to deflect the rudder with the pedals.
>
> The solution is to attach a half 2" tube split lengthwise
> about 6" long to the bottom of each pedal that curves around
> the botton of the pedal U. A piece of 3/4 x .125 6061 angle
> of the same length riveted or screwed to the bottom of the
> pedal will make the attach flange. Then attach/rivet the
> split tube to the 3/4 x .125 flange that now faces aft from
> the bottom of the pedal.
>
> Since the tube is now below the brake pedal pivot pushing the
> rudder pedal on that part deactivates the brakes, but you can
> still rock to apply brakes easily.
>
> This also makes the pedal a lot more comfortable as the ball
> of your toes tends to rest nicely on the "2 split tube.
>
> W
I too spent a lot of time when building my 6A on brake/rudder pedal
geometry. My solution was to remake the brake pedal side brackets. These
are the brackets which attach to the sides of the brake pedals and have an
appendage which drops down to fasten to the lower end of the master
cylinders. I found that I had to lengthen this appendage quite a bit, which
tilted the brake pedals forward quite a bit from the standard. One needs to
insure that at full rudder, the brake pedal when actuated, won't hit
something on the firewall. Making this length adjustable would simplify
things.
Alex Peterson
RV6-A 574 hours (with no brakes being applied with full rudder)
Maple Grove, MN
http://www.home.earthlink.net/~alexpeterson/
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Air-oil Separator FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Duane Zavadil wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Zavadil" <dzavadil@hometownaccess.net>
>
>
>I have a small reservoir, a purpose-made flat can, that catches oil from the air-oil
separator (it services the crankcase vent and a wet vac pump). I drain
it whenever I change oil and there is never more than an eight cup in there.
It apparently has been corroding some time as it let go via a small hole in the
base during a one-hour flight and it totally drained. Oil everywhere, including
the exhaust and it looked pretty serious until I found the source - which
was not easy with oil everywhere and the true source exhausted. I'll be putting
something more corosion resistant back in.
>
I give you high marks for having your head screwed on straight. I
shudder to think of all the people that did what the instructions said
and routed that gunk back to the crankcase. Don't know what kind of can
you made, or how thick, but the fact that it corroded at all with oil in
it is proof that your engine should last longer.
Linn
do not archive
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Horizontal stab BooBoo.... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DAVID REEL" <dreel@cox.net>
I'm not sure what you did to dent your horizontal stabilizer skin David. Ribs
have to lie flat on the table with the flanges at 90 degrees. Once this is achieved
with fluting pliers and hand seamer, the ribs will not deform the skin.
As to removing a small dent, I have used a body hammer and dolly to good effect.
Any hammer with a slightly rounded bottom so you can hit the metal without
creasing it would do. For the dolly, a 2lb piece of steel with rounded ends
should work. Tap the metal backed up by the dolly to remove the dent. A body
shop might help but many don't do this sort of work anymore. Be aware that
any time a dent is flattened, the surrounding metal is forced outward and you
can see a displacement if near an edge. Also, the metal is work hardened y hammering
which can lead to cracking later in it's life. If your dent is small,
these effects should be unnoticable. On the other hand, if the dent is small
and especially if it is on the bottom, it is likely to go unnoticed.
Dave Reel - RV8A
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: O360 settings |
--> RV-List message posted by: David Bobrow <david@bobrowpalumbo.com>
Please remove me from all your lists
On 2/23/05 7:05 AM, "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard V. Reynolds" <rvreynolds@macs.net>
>
> Manifold Pressure vs RPM vs Horsepower curves are in the Lycoming Owners
> Manual. If
> you do not have one, order it from Lycoming. Everything you need to know about
> operating your engine is in there..
>
> Typically, 2400 RPM at 24 in Hg equals 75% Horsepower.
>
> If you want HP (in Hg) versus speed, you need to develop the data from your
> flight
> test.
>
> Richard Reynolds
> RV-6A O-360-A1A CS
>
>
> Michel Gordillo wrote:
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "Michel Gordillo"
>> <michelgordillo@telefonica.net>
>>
>> Any good Manifold versus RPM settings or table for an RV4 and RV8 ????
>> Thank you.
>> Michel ( Spain)
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
david@bobrowpalumbo.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
The question comes in where you have one wire, say 18 awg, going to the
dimmer, then 5 smaller ones, 22 or 24 awg, going to the lights. Im guessing
you size the cb for the smallest wire. If something happens to the larger
wire going to the dimmer, the cb will definitely pop.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights?
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Shemp wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
>>
>>I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I
>>need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure
>>what gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty
>>small. I dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5
>>amp c.b. Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to
>>a something smaller?
>>
>>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>>RV-6A, N915JD
>>165 hours
>>Chicago/Louisville
>>
> This is what I do .... YMMV! I add up the load .... you can compute the
> amps if you know the watts of the bulb ....add 50% for margin and go
> with it. If you had done your homework (no flame here) you'd have
> already used that figure to size your wire .... and no, bigger wire
> isn't necessarily better ..... and breaker. Since 'small' is a
> subjective term (hold that wire next to your battery cable :-) ) it's
> hard to say whether it's sized correctly. You've already made the
> determination that the CB is there to protect the wire, not the load, so
> you need to size the CB accordingly. Not knowing how many and what
> size bulbs, it's hard to recommend something.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: circuit breakers for Vans tiny lights? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/22/05 11:42:54 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
shempdowling@earthlink.net writes:
I have lectric Bob's dimmer wired through a 5 amp c.b. Im wondering if I
need additional protection for the tiny lights Vans sells. Im not sure what
gauge wire I used going from the dimmer to the lights but its pretty small. I
dont think a short on one of those small wires would pop the 5 amp c.b.
Should I put little 1 amp fuses in line?? Maybe change the 5 to a something
smaller?
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
Shemp/Jeff,
Yes, I think that a short on one of those small wires would trip a 5 amp
breaker. It is also possible that your dimmer would limit the current to less
than 5 amps -- I haven't looked at the circuit.
In my plane I have terminal posts (similar to the ones in the Van's wiring
kit) near my clusters of gauges, and ran the individual wires from the lights
in the Vans gauges directly to those terminals -- not bundled in with other
wires. That way if one is overloaded, at least it would not burn into the
other wires in a bundle. Then a larger wire (no. 18?) runs to the dimmer. I
have 2 clusters of gauges, steam gauge style.
Its pretty easy to do an experiment on the bench to see if the small wires
will safely handle 5 amps. Find a 5 amp load -- resistor or lamps, etc., and
connect it up using a piece of the small wire in the circuit. Use a piece
several inches long and see if it gets hot after a few minutes. If you don't
have a bench setup to do this, the local electronics guru could help you do
it.
I think that 1 amp fuses would unnecessarily complicate the wiring. Of
course, all IMHO.
165 hours and now you're hooking up the lights? Or, are you getting worried
about it, finally? ;-)
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying when the weather lets me.)
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Air-oil Separator FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Shemp" <shempdowling@earthlink.net>
How about using a small glass baby jar for a receiver?
Shemp
----- Original Message -----
From: "linn walters" <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Air-oil Separator FYI
> --> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
> Duane Zavadil wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Zavadil"
>><dzavadil@hometownaccess.net>
>>
>>
>>I have a small reservoir, a purpose-made flat can, that catches oil from
>>the air-oil separator (it services the crankcase vent and a wet vac pump).
>>I drain it whenever I change oil and there is never more than an eight cup
>>in there. It apparently has been corroding some time as it let go via a
>>small hole in the base during a one-hour flight and it totally drained.
>>Oil everywhere, including the exhaust and it looked pretty serious until I
>>found the source - which was not easy with oil everywhere and the true
>>source exhausted. I'll be putting something more corosion resistant back
>>in.
>>
> I give you high marks for having your head screwed on straight. I
> shudder to think of all the people that did what the instructions said
> and routed that gunk back to the crankcase. Don't know what kind of can
> you made, or how thick, but the fact that it corroded at all with oil in
> it is proof that your engine should last longer.
> Linn
> do not archive
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
There is one thing that concerns me about installing
pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me
that a number of the -8's that have the pedal
extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2
specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps
a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't
such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab
the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed.
Just an observation...
Skylor
RV-8 QB, Under Construction
__________________________________
http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
Message 11
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| Subject: | -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals |
0.20 FROM_HAS_ULINE_NUMS From: contains an underline and numbers/letters
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
The existing -8 rudder pedal arrangement need to be revised. I found that I
was almost constantly riding the brakes when on the ground.
This can serve no good. Premature brake wear and the very real increased
possibility of loosing control/prop strike on landing rollout if not very
conscious of pushing the bottom of the pedal when wanting rudder input only.
Also, IMO, I would be very suprised if the pedal extensions were a major
factor in the groundloop instances mentioned. more misfortune than
anything.
Personally, I modified my pedal arrangement by installing a steel dowel/rod
in the pedal/assembly hinge centerline. This allows me to very easily push
on the rod with the ball of my foot and only get rudder input. Consciously
raising of my foot and pressing with my toes easily applies brakes. It
works very well and took every bit of an hour to install and cost about
$5-6.
One improvement would be to install this rod arrangement and use stainless
tubing over the rod to act as a roller of sorts, allowing your foot to
easily slide up if necessary for braking. Both would work well.
Write me if you want more description or a sketch. i could probably come up
with something if anyone needs it.
Bryan Jones -8 715 hrs
Houston
>There is one thing that concerns me about installing
>pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me
>that a number of the -8's that have the pedal
>extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2
>specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps
>a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't
>such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab
>the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed.
>
>Just an observation...
>
>Skylor
>RV-8 QB, Under Construction
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/22/05 11:46:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
sarg314@comcast.net writes:
<< Does it tend to sieze, or leak? >>
Or break? That's the question that persuaded me to use steel fuel and oil
fittings on the engine.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 13
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--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Subject: Re: RV-List: E-Mag/P-Mag Installation requiring mounting stud
replacement
GV,
the general rule for studs in Contenintals is torque to a deck height while
falling within a range of torque values. If it goes to deep, then go to the
next size over.
Min value for lycoming is
1/4 20 15inlb
5/16 18 25inlb
3/8 16 50inlb
and that's all they give you. So if you can't reach that torque by the time
the stud is installed to the proper deck height, which is going to be most
of the threads in then go up one size.
Remember, the engine side of the threads is different than the nut side
usually. The nut side will always fit in fairly loose if the threads appear
the same.
W
Message 14
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| Subject: | Update: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
I received a few replies to my canopy overhang issue. I also noticed last
night that when I took off the canopy, the rails were no longer lining up
with the fuselage sides. So I'm going to go back and tweak them again.
After riveting the canopy brace kit and doing some light flexing of the
frame, the gap is now 5/32" on the pilot side and 7/32" on the passenger
side. Not good enough...
Here is a reply from Van's...
From Van's:
-----------
"I have never heard of a tip-up frame flexing after the plexiglass is
attached. The frame is fairly rigid, not like the sliders that do flex a
lot. It's hard to fathom that if your frame was correct before you attached
the bubble that it would get wider afterwards. I have not heard of any other
tip-up frames acting this way. I didn't have the problem on mine."
Thanks for those that replied...
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: stud install |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: E-Mag/P-Mag Installation requiring mounting stud
> replacement
Wheeler, just curious why you change the subject line every time you reply?
do not archive
)_( Dan
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Update: Canopy side rails overhanging fuselage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Matthew,
You did fit it with the plexiglass clecoed to the frame, didn't you? Mine
is a slider, so maybe I should stay out of it, but the plexiglass will always
flex the frame outward. You have to make the frame narrower, and then see
how it comes out when you cleco the plexiglass to the frame. It took me a
month to make my slider fit. OK, I'm slow.
do not archive
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 2/23/05 4:24:30 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
matthew@n523rv.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matthew Brandes" <matthew@n523rv.com>
I received a few replies to my canopy overhang issue. I also noticed last
night that when I took off the canopy, the rails were no longer lining up
with the fuselage sides. So I'm going to go back and tweak them again.
After riveting the canopy brace kit and doing some light flexing of the
frame, the gap is now 5/32" on the pilot side and 7/32" on the passenger
side. Not good enough...
Here is a reply from Van's...
From Van's:
-----------
"I have never heard of a tip-up frame flexing after the plexiglass is
attached. The frame is fairly rigid, not like the sliders that do flex a
lot. It's hard to fathom that if your frame was correct before you attached
the bubble that it would get wider afterwards. I have not heard of any other
tip-up frames acting this way. I didn't have the problem on mine."
Thanks for those that replied...
Matthew Brandes,
Van's RV-9A (Finish Kit)
EAA Chapter 868/91/1329
www.n523rv.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS
prop line with steel.
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
> --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 2/22/05 11:46:49 AM Pacific Standard Time,
> sarg314@comcast.net writes:
>
> << Does it tend to sieze, or leak? >>
>
>
> Or break? That's the question that persuaded me to use steel fuel and oil
> fittings on the engine.
>
> Harry Crosby
> Pleasanton, California
> RV-6, flying!
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/23/05 5:33:58 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS
prop line with steel.
Does this apply to just the engine fittings, or to the hose ends too?
Dan Hopper
RV-7A
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Here is the essence of the AD 90-04-06 R1 - Prop governor oil line.
Applicability: All Textron Lycoming four cylinder piston engines equipped
with a rear mounted propeller governor and external oil line, manufactured
prior to January 1, 1990.
Compliance: Required as indicated, unless already accomplished.
To prevent oil line fracture and loss of engine oil, accomplish the
following:
(a) Within the next 25 hours time in service or whenever the propeller
governor oil line is removed, whichever occurs first, accomplish the
following:
(1) Inspect the propeller governor external oil line for abrasions, cracks,
and oil leaks along the length of the line and at the end attachment
fittings. Inspect to determine that the two cushion type support clamps or
clips are properly installed as shown in Figure 1 of Appendix 1 to this AD,
and assure that sufficient clearances exist between the oil line and
adjacent components.
(2) If any leaks, chafing, or interference condition exists or if the two
support clamps or clips are not properly installed, replace the governor oil
line and its attachment end fittings with new parts even though the parts
show no visible damage. Refer to Figure 1 in Appendix 1 to this AD, for
parts identification, line routing, and location of support clamps or clips.
The fittings in the engine case and governor must be replaced if they are
damaged or are made of aluminum.
(b) At the next engine overhaul or anytime the governor oil line is removed
for any reason, whichever occurs first, but no later than May 1, 1992,
remove any governor oil line assembly having integral aluminum connecting
nuts and reinstall an oil line assembly with corresponding steel connecting
nuts. Replace any engine case/governor aluminum fittings with corresponding
steel fittings as shown in Figure 1 of Appendix 1 to this AD.
NOTE: The attachment nuts are components of the governor oil line tube
assembly and have been changed by Textron Lycoming from aluminum to steel
without changing the oil line part number. Aluminum nuts may be identified
by their blue colored anodized surface. The attachment nuts as well as the
elbow/nipple end fittings may also be identified by using a magnet to
differentiate aluminum from steel.
(c) An optional method of compliance with paragraph (a) (2) and (b) is the
installation of steel fittings and a fire resistant flexible hose assembly
which meets the standards in FAA Technical Standard Order TSO-C53a Type D,
and is installed in accordance with Appendix 2 of this AD.
CAUTION
IT IS MANDATORY THAT THIS FLEXIBLE HOSE BE REPLACED AT EACH OVERHAUL.
Cy Galley
EAA Safety Programs Editor
Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 2/23/05 5:33:58 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
>
>
> There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS
> prop line with steel.
>
>
> Does this apply to just the engine fittings, or to the hose ends too?
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Dan,
I think the pressure in the prop governor lines is somewhat higher than
normal engine oil pressure the Steel hose fittings would be advised as well.
The flexible governor oil line that was professionally made and tagged that
I have is fitted with steel.
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 2/23/05 5:33:58 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
>
>
> There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS
> prop line with steel.
>
>
> Does this apply to just the engine fittings, or to the hose ends too?
>
> Dan Hopper
> RV-7A
>
>
>
Message 21
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0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" <av8er2@mcleodusa.net>
Does anyone know how to get ahold of Todd Rudberg for an 8 stick bend. Does it
seem to be more comforatible? Thanks Mark Rose N137MR 8A wiring.
Message 22
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Todd's address is todd@rvwoody.com. Yes, I think the bent stick is
definitely more comfortable for me. I am not sure that he is still having
them done.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Finishing
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" <av8er2@mcleodusa.net>
Does anyone know how to get ahold of Todd Rudberg for an 8 stick bend. Does
it seem to be more comforatible? Thanks Mark Rose N137MR 8A wiring.
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Yes, I worried about it too when I was building, but it turned out to be
a total non-issue. However you set it up, it will be different than what
you are used to and you'll have to adapt. In my -6, I installed the
rudder and brake pedals per the book - vertical with no modifications,
and I've never had a problem. (and my brake pedals only move about 1/8")
It's felt natural right from the start, and I'm sure you'll agree that
it's even more important in a taildragger than a nosedragger.
Dave -6 So Cal
Skylor Piper wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
>
>There is one thing that concerns me about installing
>pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me
>that a number of the -8's that have the pedal
>extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2
>specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps
>a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't
>such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab
>the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed.
>
>Just an observation...
>
>Skylor
>RV-8 QB, Under Construction
>
>
>
>__________________________________
>http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters
--> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" <av8er2@mcleodusa.net>
Thank you for the information Terry. I have sent him an email. Mark Rose
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
The RV-8 pedal assy projects upward from the cockpit floor and its design is
unique in the RV series (AFAIK). They have no horizontal steel tubing at the
base of the pedal which would prevent the problem described. Based on my
experience, the std "hanging" (-4, -6, -9) rudder pedal/brake action is very
good in comparison to a std design -8.
Bryan -8
Houston
>Yes, I worried about it too when I was building, but it turned out to be
>a total non-issue. However you set it up, it will be different than what
>you are used to and you'll have to adapt. In my -6, I installed the
>rudder and brake pedals per the book - vertical with no modifications,
>and I've never had a problem. (and my brake pedals only move about 1/8")
>It's felt natural right from the start, and I'm sure you'll agree that
>it's even more important in a taildragger than a nosedragger.
>
>Dave -6 So Cal
>
>Skylor Piper wrote:
>
> >--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
> >
> >There is one thing that concerns me about installing
> >pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me
> >that a number of the -8's that have the pedal
> >extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2
> >specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps
> >a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't
> >such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab
> >the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed.
> >
> >Just an observation...
> >
> >Skylor
> >RV-8 QB, Under Construction
> >
> >
> >
> >__________________________________
> >http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Air-oil Separator FYI |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Zavadil" <dzavadil@hometownaccess.net>
It is nasty stuff. Watery slime.
---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
From: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
>
>Duane Zavadil wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Duane Zavadil" <dzavadil@hometownaccess.net>
>>
>>
>>I have a small reservoir, a purpose-made flat can, that catches oil from the
air-oil separator (it services the crankcase vent and a wet vac pump). I drain
it whenever I change oil and there is never more than an eight cup in there.
It apparently has been corroding some time as it let go via a small hole in the
base during a one-hour flight and it totally drained. Oil everywhere, including
the exhaust and it looked pretty serious until I found the source - which
was not easy with oil everywhere and the true source exhausted. I'll be putting
something more corosion resistant back in.
>>
>I give you high marks for having your head screwed on straight. I
>shudder to think of all the people that did what the instructions said
>and routed that gunk back to the crankcase. Don't know what kind of can
>you made, or how thick, but the fact that it corroded at all with oil in
>it is proof that your engine should last longer.
>Linn
>do not archive
>
>
>--
>No virus found in this outgoing message.
>Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
>
>
Sent via the WebMail system at hometownaccess.net
Message 27
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| Subject: | Alodine after riveting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
I have a plane that was mostly completed by another builder and not
Alodined. The paint dealer where I bought my Imron recommended Alodining
before I prime. I am concerned that if I alodine the outside skins that are
already rivited that the chemicals may get between the skins and between the
skins and the rivets and not be rinsed out completely causing corrossion.
Is this something that I don't need to worry about or should I just
Scotchbrite the plane and not try to Alodine it now that it is rivited?
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | Re: Alodine after riveting |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
There are plenty of paint shops which alodine entire airframes (the external
parts, at least) in preparation for repainting aircraft. I've never heard
of any problems resulting from this.
One thing to check for is whether it is beneficial to alodine underneath
your chosen primer. Alodining prior to some primers is recommended, but for
others, the spec sheets indicate it is a waste of time.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
Subject: RV-List: Alodine after riveting
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Brian Kraut" <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>
> I have a plane that was mostly completed by another builder and not
> Alodined. The paint dealer where I bought my Imron recommended Alodining
> before I prime. I am concerned that if I alodine the outside skins that
> are
> already rivited that the chemicals may get between the skins and between
> the
> skins and the rivets and not be rinsed out completely causing corrossion.
> Is this something that I don't need to worry about or should I just
> Scotchbrite the plane and not try to Alodine it now that it is rivited?
>
> Brian Kraut
> Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
> www.engalt.com
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Todd's address is todd@rvwoody.com. Yes, I think the bent stick is
definitely more comfortable for me. I am not sure that he is still
having them done.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Finishing
Terry et al: It has been suggested to me that one needs to approach the
bent stick with some care because the placement of the pilot's hand and
forearm well aft of the stick pivot point tends to enhance the tendency
to PIO. Increasing g-loads tend to increase the pull on the stick.
Higher loads than intended may result. It should be manageable but best
be aware.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 30
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| Subject: | pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
Hi Dan,
I think the pressure in the prop governor lines is somewhat higher than
normal engine oil pressure the Steel hose fittings would be advised as
well.
The flexible governor oil line that was professionally made and tagged
that
I have is fitted with steel.
Jim in Kelowna
Jim/Dan: Years ago, Pard Diver of Meyers Aircraft told me that they
were not permitted, in the design of a TC's aircraft, to use aluminum
bulkhead fittings in the firewall. I went ahead and used aluminum
fittings because steel was heavier and cost several times as much as
aluminum. Fortunately I have not had an engine fire but I realize
aluminum will happily join in a good blaze. For that matter, the
aluminum heat valve in my firewall would last almost no time at all
before presenting me with a 2" diameter torch not far above my right
foot. The Aero News Network a couple of days ago described an EAAer who
has built a SS valve and established testing facilities for that and
other firewall penetrations. If anyone knows who that worthy is, I
would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 tout
de suite.
Gordon Comfort
N363GC
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Gordon,
I used the Van's heat valve. However, I did replace the heat valve door,
it's actuating arm and the hinge with stainless steel parts. The rest of the
unit might melt off but the door will still remain closed for an extended
period of time. Hopefully that would buy some time. That is of course is if
the pilot has the presence of mind and the time to close the heat door
{[B-[!
Changing out the parts is not very difficult, drill out a few rivets make
copies of the parts and reassemble.
Stay cool,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort"
> <gcomfo@tc3net.com>
>
>
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum?
>
>
> Hi Dan,
>
> I think the pressure in the prop governor lines is somewhat higher than
> normal engine oil pressure the Steel hose fittings would be advised as
> well.
> The flexible governor oil line that was professionally made and tagged
> that
> I have is fitted with steel.
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
> Jim/Dan: Years ago, Pard Diver of Meyers Aircraft told me that they
> were not permitted, in the design of a TC's aircraft, to use aluminum
> bulkhead fittings in the firewall. I went ahead and used aluminum
> fittings because steel was heavier and cost several times as much as
> aluminum. Fortunately I have not had an engine fire but I realize
> aluminum will happily join in a good blaze. For that matter, the
> aluminum heat valve in my firewall would last almost no time at all
> before presenting me with a 2" diameter torch not far above my right
> foot. The Aero News Network a couple of days ago described an EAAer who
> has built a SS valve and established testing facilities for that and
> other firewall penetrations. If anyone knows who that worthy is, I
> would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 tout
> de suite.
>
> Gordon Comfort
> N363GC
>
>
>
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