---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 02/24/05: 37 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:04 AM - Gear Leg Shimmy Damper (Jerry Isler) 2. 04:38 AM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 3. 05:41 AM - Re: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper (Oldsfolks@aol.com) 4. 05:53 AM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (Tom Callender) 5. 06:14 AM - Re: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals (Richard McBride) 6. 06:42 AM - Re: (Bob C.) 7. 07:54 AM - I39 RV fly in Richmond KY (Dane Sheahen) 8. 08:01 AM - O-320 carb problem (Charles Heathco) 9. 09:32 AM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (cgalley) 10. 10:08 AM - Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (James E. Clark) 11. 10:45 AM - Re: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper (Dave Bristol) 12. 11:07 AM - Re: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper (Scott Bilinski) 13. 11:07 AM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (Ed Anderson) 14. 11:46 AM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (James E. Clark) 15. 12:35 PM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (Sam Buchanan) 16. 12:35 PM - N331RD First Flight (Richard Dudley) 17. 12:54 PM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (Scott Jackson) 18. 01:19 PM - Re: N331RD First Flight (Charles Rowbotham) 19. 01:39 PM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (Dave Bristol) 20. 01:39 PM - Todd Rudberg's email address () 21. 01:42 PM - Todd Rudberg's address has changed () 22. 01:58 PM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (James E. Clark) 23. 01:58 PM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (James E. Clark) 24. 02:13 PM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (John Furey) 25. 03:15 PM - EGTs and Electronic Ignition (dmedema@att.net) 26. 03:35 PM - EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D (dmedema@att.net) 27. 03:38 PM - Re: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? (Gordon or Marge Comfort) 28. 03:44 PM - Headset audio wire broken at phone jack (Tom Barnes) 29. 04:04 PM - Re: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D (John Furey) 30. 04:08 PM - Re: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D (Mike Robertson) 31. 04:16 PM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (Michael Hilger) 32. 04:31 PM - Re: Headset audio wire broken at phone jack (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 33. 05:03 PM - subject line (Wheeler North) 34. 06:26 PM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (John D. Heath) 35. 07:39 PM - Alodining before painting!! (Todd Wiechman) 36. 08:48 PM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (Scott Jackson) 37. 08:50 PM - Re: Alodining before painting!! (Stein Bruch) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:04:37 AM PST US From: "Jerry Isler" Subject: RV-List: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper --> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" I am planning to install wooden gear leg shimmy dampers on my RV-4 before I intall the gear leg fairings. What size piece of wood do you need? I have a 1" square hardwood block that is the length of the gear leg and have contoured the leading edge to fit snuggly against the gear leg. I also have tapered the aft edge so not to interfere with the fairing. I plan to fiberglass this to the leg. Is this enough to do the job or do I need something bigger? Jerry Isler RV4 N455J Donalsonville, GA ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:38:25 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Cy, Because I have a front mounted prop governor with no hose, this AD doesn't apply to my engine. What I am concerned about is the two hoses that connect from the engine to my firewall mounted oil cooler. I did put steel fittings in the cooler, but the engine came with fittings and I'm not sure which they are. I need to check. However, I do know that the hose ends were made of aluminum -- like those supplied from Vans. Do these need to be steel? I installed the aluminum hose ends on the hoses myself, and pressure tested them to 1000 psi. Thanks, Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying since last July) In a message dated 2/23/05 6:15:21 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, cgalley@qcbc.org writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" Here is the essence of the AD 90-04-06 R1 - Prop governor oil line. Applicability: All Textron Lycoming four cylinder piston engines equipped with a rear mounted propeller governor and external oil line, manufactured prior to January 1, 1990. (c) An optional method of compliance with paragraph (a) (2) and (b) is the installation of steel fittings and a fire resistant flexible hose assembly which meets the standards in FAA Technical Standard Order TSO-C53a Type D, and is installed in accordance with Appendix 2 of this AD. CAUTION IT IS MANDATORY THAT THIS FLEXIBLE HOSE BE REPLACED AT EACH OVERHAUL. Cy Galley EAA Safety Programs Editor Always looking for ideas and articles for EAA Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com > > > In a message dated 2/23/05 5:33:58 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, > cgalley@qcbc.org writes: > > > There is an AD to replace the aluminum fittings on the Cardinal 200Hp CS > prop line with steel. > > > Does this apply to just the engine fittings, or to the hose ends too? > > Dan Hopper > RV-7A ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:41:09 AM PST US From: Oldsfolks@aol.com Subject: RV-List: Re: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper --> RV-List message posted by: Oldsfolks@aol.com Jerry; That is the way I did the fairings on our early (#126 ) RV-4,then I put on 5 or 6 plies of bi-directional glas. I shaped the wood to streamline shape and didn't use metal on the gear legs. Our first one had short gear legs and needed the dampers,our second one has long gear legs and hasn't needed them. My opinion only Bob Olds RV-4 , N1191X A&P , EAA Tech. Counselor Charleston,Arkansas Real Aviators Fly Taildraggers ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:53:31 AM PST US From: "Tom Callender" Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Callender" >>an EAAer who >> has built a SS valve and established testing facilities for that and >> other firewall penetrations. If anyone knows who that worthy is, I >> would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 tout >> de suite. >> Gordon Comfort >> N363GC Gordon, try http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html Tom Callender RV9 N793JT ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:14:10 AM PST US From: "Richard McBride" Subject: Re: RV-List: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals --> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McBride" Bryan, The early -6 had a floor mounted arrangement not much different than the ground adjustable -8. My -6, sn20404 had the very same problem as my gound adjustable -8 has, only worse. I addressed the problem on my -6 by installing a modified pedal. On my -8 I fabricated the extensions per Randy Lervold's web site. This modification has worked well. Rick McBride RV-6 20404 RV-8 80027 >From: "Bryan Jones" >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: RV-List: -8 Pedal Extensions: was Pedals >Date: Wed, 23 Feb 2005 20:19:05 -0600 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" > >The RV-8 pedal assy projects upward from the cockpit floor and its design >is >unique in the RV series (AFAIK). They have no horizontal steel tubing at >the >base of the pedal which would prevent the problem described. Based on my >experience, the std "hanging" (-4, -6, -9) rudder pedal/brake action is >very >good in comparison to a std design -8. > >Bryan -8 >Houston > > > >Yes, I worried about it too when I was building, but it turned out to be > >a total non-issue. However you set it up, it will be different than what > >you are used to and you'll have to adapt. In my -6, I installed the > >rudder and brake pedals per the book - vertical with no modifications, > >and I've never had a problem. (and my brake pedals only move about 1/8") > >It's felt natural right from the start, and I'm sure you'll agree that > >it's even more important in a taildragger than a nosedragger. > > > >Dave -6 So Cal > > > >Skylor Piper wrote: > > > > >--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper > > > > > >There is one thing that concerns me about installing > > >pedal extensions onto RV-8 pedals: It seems to me > > >that a number of the -8's that have the pedal > > >extensions have ground looped. I am aware of 2 > > >specifically: Randy Lervold, and Jim Daniels. Perhaps > > >a little bit of brake at full pedal deflection isn't > > >such a bad thing, especially when one needs to stab > > >the pedal to stop a sudden turn at low speed. > > > > > >Just an observation... > > > > > >Skylor > > >RV-8 QB, Under Construction > > > > > > > > > > > >__________________________________ > > >http://info.mail.yahoo.com/mail_250 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:42:10 AM PST US From: "Bob C. " Subject: Re: RV-List: --> RV-List message posted by: "Bob C. " Mark, I believe Todd quit doing the stick bends and possibly took down his "shingle"? This was the last email address I had for him: rv8list@rvwoody.com Regards, Bob On Wed, 23 Feb 2005 16:58:08 -0800 0.00 FROM_HAS_MIXED_NUMS From: contains numbers mixed in with letters 1.16 MISSING_SUBJECT Missing Subject: header, Mark Rose wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "Mark Rose" > > Does anyone know how to get ahold of Todd Rudberg for an 8 stick bend. Does it seem to be more comforatible? Thanks Mark Rose N137MR 8A wiring. > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:54:38 AM PST US From: "Dane Sheahen" Subject: RV-List: I39 RV fly in Richmond KY --> RV-List message posted by: "Dane Sheahen" I was wondering if any other RV's from the Chicago or southern Wis. area are flying to Richmond, KY ( I39 ) RV fly in Saturday morning ? ? ? If so what time are you leaving ? Dane Sheahen RV8a N838RV at UGN 847-727-0026 -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dan Checkoway Subject: Re: RV-List: stud install --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > > Subject: Re: RV-List: E-Mag/P-Mag Installation requiring mounting stud > replacement Wheeler, just curious why you change the subject line every time you reply? do not archive )_( Dan ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:01:57 AM PST US From: "Charles Heathco" Subject: RV-List: O-320 carb problem --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" My 6a lost power and started to die completly on takeoff the other day, luckily happened just befor liftoff. had been running fine, but i had experienced a roughness that cleared right up one other time. I got it to the taxi way and got it running again, and did high speed taxi and then takeoff drop back, running fine, so took off and hightailed it for home. Pulled the cowel and found carb bowl screws loose. 3 hrs had them tight and fixed. then started up and found feed pump leaking gas around the stem, stem bearing wallowed out. The big question, has anyone done an OH with a kit, or is it best to spend the big bucks for an OH unit? Charlie heathco Atl. ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:32:33 AM PST US From: "cgalley" Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" The Bellanca corporation changed out ALL the heater-vents from aluminum to steel at the insistance of the CAA. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" Subject: RE: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" > > > > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? > > > Hi Dan, > > I think the pressure in the prop governor lines is somewhat higher than > normal engine oil pressure the Steel hose fittings would be advised as > well. > The flexible governor oil line that was professionally made and tagged > that > I have is fitted with steel. > > Jim in Kelowna > > Jim/Dan: Years ago, Pard Diver of Meyers Aircraft told me that they > were not permitted, in the design of a TC's aircraft, to use aluminum > bulkhead fittings in the firewall. I went ahead and used aluminum > fittings because steel was heavier and cost several times as much as > aluminum. Fortunately I have not had an engine fire but I realize > aluminum will happily join in a good blaze. For that matter, the > aluminum heat valve in my firewall would last almost no time at all > before presenting me with a 2" diameter torch not far above my right > foot. The Aero News Network a couple of days ago described an EAAer who > has built a SS valve and established testing facilities for that and > other firewall penetrations. If anyone knows who that worthy is, I > would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 tout > de suite. > > Gordon Comfort > N363GC > > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:08:13 AM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has fluctuations at > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! Anyone else ever experience this? Any ideas as to what might be happening here? We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 PSI but would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) James ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 10:45:07 AM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol Hardwood might be a little too stiff. My plans called for "window molding" which is what I used and I've never had a shimmy. I used 2 pieces back to back and did not have to do any trimming - they fit perfectly on the back of the gear leg. Dave -6 So Cal EAA Technical Counselor Jerry Isler wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" > >I am planning to install wooden gear leg shimmy dampers on my RV-4 before I >intall the gear leg fairings. What size piece of wood do you need? I have a >1" square hardwood block that is the length of the gear leg and have >contoured the leading edge to fit snuggly against the gear leg. I also have >tapered the aft edge so not to interfere with the fairing. I plan to >fiberglass this to the leg. Is this enough to do the job or do I need >something bigger? > >Jerry Isler >RV4 N455J >Donalsonville, GA > > > > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:07:41 AM PST US From: Scott Bilinski Subject: Re: RV-List: Gear Leg Shimmy Damper --> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski I think Van's recommends flying with out the stiffeners first to see if there really needed. At 10:43 AM 2/24/2005 -0800, you wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol > >Hardwood might be a little too stiff. My plans called for "window >molding" which is what I used and I've never had a shimmy. I used 2 >pieces back to back and did not have to do any trimming - they fit >perfectly on the back of the gear leg. > >Dave -6 So Cal >EAA Technical Counselor > > >Jerry Isler wrote: > > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Isler" > > > >I am planning to install wooden gear leg shimmy dampers on my RV-4 before I > >intall the gear leg fairings. What size piece of wood do you need? I have a > >1" square hardwood block that is the length of the gear leg and have > >contoured the leading edge to fit snuggly against the gear leg. I also have > >tapered the aft edge so not to interfere with the fairing. I plan to > >fiberglass this to the leg. Is this enough to do the job or do I need > >something bigger? > > > >Jerry Isler > >RV4 N455J > >Donalsonville, GA > > > > > > > > > > Scott Bilinski Eng dept 305 Phone (858) 657-2536 Pager (858) 502-5190 ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 11:07:50 AM PST US From: "Ed Anderson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" James, there are several possibility 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some point. Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the pressure drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly restrictive fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further data. 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes against the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood of fuel into the engine. More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime where this happens. Ed A ----- Original Message ----- From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" > > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has fluctuations at > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! > > > Anyone else ever experience this? > > > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? > > > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 PSI but > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) > > > James > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 11:46:18 AM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" Thanks Ed. I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent outlets. We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was also a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. This was observed with the boost pump ON. The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at even higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I *assume* that part is fine. Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of the lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the mechanical pump. Again, thanks. James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM | To: rv-list@matronics.com | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" | | James, there are several possibility | | 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some | point. | Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a | pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the | pressure | drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly | restrictive | fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. | | 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further | data. | | 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes against | the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel | pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood of | fuel | into the engine. | | More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime | where | this happens. | | Ed A | | ----- Original Message ----- | From: "James E. Clark" | To: | Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | | > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" | | > | > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has | > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has | fluctuations | at | > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! | > | > | > Anyone else ever experience this? | > | > | > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? | > | > | > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 | PSI | but | > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) | > | > | > James | > | > | | | | | ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 12:35:33 PM PST US From: Sam Buchanan Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan James, I certainly would not want to discourage you guys from looking for a genuine problem, but what you have described is very, very common with carbed RVs. I have seen fuel pressure on my O-320-powered RV-6 vary from zero to six lbs, and there is no pattern to the variations. This characteristic of our fuel systems has been discussed multiple times over the years and seems to be "normal". Apparently there is considerable hysteresis in the pressure senders and they have difficulty accurately reporting very low pressure. The problem comes in distinguishing between the well-known RV fuel pressure weirdness and a real problem. But obviously, if the engine is performing properly at all times, there can't be a significant fuel pressure problem and is probably a gage anomaly. Sam Buchanan ================================ James E. Clark wrote: > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" > > Thanks Ed. > > I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent > outlets. > > We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was also > a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in > flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. > > This was observed with the boost pump ON. > > The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. > > The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at even > higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I > *assume* that part is fine. > > Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of the > lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the mechanical > pump. > > Again, thanks. > > James > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 12:35:43 PM PST US From: Richard Dudley Subject: RV-List: N331RD First Flight --> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley RV Listers, This morning, after 5 years and 4500+ hours of building I flew RV-6A N331RD from Kissimmee Airport. Though long anticipated and producing much anxiety, it was almost a non event. It behaved exactly as promised and like the 6A that Jan Bussell gave me transition training in a couple of weeks ago. The building effort was worth it and I highly reccommend staying with all the fun and not so fun times of building. Regards to all, Richard Dudley ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:54:48 PM PST US From: "Scott Jackson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" My system pressure runs up and down for no apparent reason just as Sam describes. My concern is whether or not it is just indication, or the actual pressure that is fluctuating. I have a carb now, and an Ellison waiting to go on the engine, but I'm reluctant to install it as it is more presssure sensitive than a float-type carburetor. SCott in VAncouver ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sam Buchanan" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan > > James, I certainly would not want to discourage you guys from looking > for a genuine problem, but what you have described is very, very common > with carbed RVs. > > I have seen fuel pressure on my O-320-powered RV-6 vary from zero to six > lbs, and there is no pattern to the variations. This characteristic of > our fuel systems has been discussed multiple times over the years and > seems to be "normal". Apparently there is considerable hysteresis in the > pressure senders and they have difficulty accurately reporting very low > pressure. > > The problem comes in distinguishing between the well-known RV fuel > pressure weirdness and a real problem. But obviously, if the engine is > performing properly at all times, there can't be a significant fuel > pressure problem and is probably a gage anomaly. > > Sam Buchanan > > ================================ > > James E. Clark wrote: >> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" >> >> >> Thanks Ed. >> >> I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent >> outlets. >> >> We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was >> also >> a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in >> flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. >> >> This was observed with the boost pump ON. >> >> The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. >> >> The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at >> even >> higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I >> *assume* that part is fine. >> >> Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of >> the >> lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the >> mechanical >> pump. >> >> Again, thanks. >> >> James >> >> >> | -----Original Message----- >> | From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >> | server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson >> | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM >> | To: rv-list@matronics.com >> | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... >> | >> | --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" >> >> | >> | James, there are several possibility >> | >> | 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some >> | point. >> | Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a >> | pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the >> | pressure >> | drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly >> | restrictive >> | fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. >> | >> | 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further >> | data. >> | >> | 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes >> against >> | the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel >> | pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood of >> | fuel >> | into the engine. >> | >> | More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime >> | where >> | this happens. >> | >> | Ed A >> | >> | ----- Original Message ----- >> | From: "James E. Clark" >> | To: >> | Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... >> | >> | >> | > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" >> | >> | > >> | > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that >> has >> | > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has >> | fluctuations >> | at >> | > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! >> | > >> | > >> | > Anyone else ever experience this? >> | > >> | > >> | > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? >> | > >> | > >> | > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 >> | PSI >> | but >> | > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) >> | > >> | > >> | > James > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 01:19:29 PM PST US From: "Charles Rowbotham" Subject: RE: RV-List: N331RD First Flight --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" Richard, CONGRATULATIONS and WELL DONE !!!! Chuck & Dave Rowbotham RV-8A >From: Richard Dudley >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: N331RD First Flight >Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 15:35:11 -0500 > >--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Dudley > >RV Listers, > >This morning, after 5 years and 4500+ hours of building I flew RV-6A >N331RD from Kissimmee Airport. Though long anticipated and producing >much anxiety, it was almost a non event. It behaved exactly as promised >and like the 6A that Jan Bussell gave me transition training in a couple >of weeks ago. The building effort was worth it and I highly reccommend >staying with all the fun and not so fun times of building. > >Regards to all, > >Richard Dudley ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 01:39:26 PM PST US From: Dave Bristol Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol It could also be that at 2400 the pump is putting out it's max pressure. If so, then when you ask for more power the pressure will have to drop to give the flow that's necessary. I don't have first hand knowledge of carb fuel pressure problems since I have FI, but weirdness seems to be the rule. Dave James E. Clark wrote: >--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" > >Thanks Ed. > >I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent >outlets. > >We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was also >a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in >flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. > >This was observed with the boost pump ON. > >The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. > >The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at even >higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I >*assume* that part is fine. > >Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of the >lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the mechanical >pump. > >Again, thanks. > >James > > >| -----Original Message----- >| From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- >| server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson >| Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM >| To: rv-list@matronics.com >| Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... >| >| --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" >| >| James, there are several possibility >| >| 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some >| point. >| Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a >| pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the >| pressure >| drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly >| restrictive >| fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. >| >| 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further >| data. >| >| 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes against >| the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel >| pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood of >| fuel >| into the engine. >| >| More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime >| where >| this happens. >| >| Ed A >| >| ----- Original Message ----- >| From: "James E. Clark" >| To: >| Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... >| >| >| > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" >| >| > >| > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has >| > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has >| fluctuations >| at >| > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! >| > >| > >| > Anyone else ever experience this? >| > >| > >| > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? >| > >| > >| > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as 0.5 >| PSI >| but >| > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) >| > >| > >| > James >| > >| > >| >| >| >| >| > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 01:39:40 PM PST US From: with HTTP/1.1; Subject: RV-List: Todd Rudberg's email address --> RV-List message posted by: with HTTP/1.1; Todd Rudberg's new email address is ToddR@RVWoody.com. I just sent him a stick from Van's a couple of days ago. I think it will be more comfortable. Scott Keadle KRUQ Salisbury, NC RV-8 N844RF ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 01:42:27 PM PST US From: with HTTP/1.1; Subject: RV-List: Todd Rudberg's address has changed --> RV-List message posted by: with HTTP/1.1; RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" Todd's address is todd@rvwoody.com. Yes, I think the bent stick is definitely more comfortable for me. I am not sure that he is still having them done. Hi Terry, please note that Todd Rudberg's email address has changed to toddR@rvwoody.com. ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 01:58:03 PM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" Thanks Sam. Strangely enough, I have not seen this on our RV6. It too has O-320 (but a fixed pitch Ed Sterba wood prop). I have seen fuel pressure drop in a twin at high altitude when the boost pumps were not on but this one is strange. Also, I have flown regularly with a friend whose fuel pressure gauge always seems to be close to 1! (I think he has a gauge problem as it is not the one from Van's). At altitude, over an airport, we will slowly inch up on what happens in the limit for this. If at max RPM (2600), it goes no lower than 3 PSI, then maybe it is just one of those things. On the other hand if it sputters at 2550 then we have something serious to track down. Another theory of mine: At >2400 in straight and level flight, a certain harmonic is reached and there are some cavitations somewhere. Just another idea. Again, thanks. James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Sam Buchanan | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 3:34 PM | To: rv-list@matronics.com | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan | | James, I certainly would not want to discourage you guys from looking | for a genuine problem, but what you have described is very, very common | with carbed RVs. | | I have seen fuel pressure on my O-320-powered RV-6 vary from zero to six | lbs, and there is no pattern to the variations. This characteristic of | our fuel systems has been discussed multiple times over the years and | seems to be "normal". Apparently there is considerable hysteresis in the | pressure senders and they have difficulty accurately reporting very low | pressure. | | The problem comes in distinguishing between the well-known RV fuel | pressure weirdness and a real problem. But obviously, if the engine is | performing properly at all times, there can't be a significant fuel | pressure problem and is probably a gage anomaly. | | Sam Buchanan | | ================================ | | James E. Clark wrote: | > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" | | > | > Thanks Ed. | > | > I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent | > outlets. | > | > We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was | also | > a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in | > flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. | > | > This was observed with the boost pump ON. | > | > The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. | > | > The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at | even | > higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So | I | > *assume* that part is fine. | > | > Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking | of the | > lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the | mechanical | > pump. | > | > Again, thanks. | > | > James | > | > | > | -----Original Message----- | > | From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | > | server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson | > | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM | > | To: rv-list@matronics.com | > | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | > | | > | --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" | | > | | > | James, there are several possibility | > | | > | 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at | some | > | point. | > | Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of | a | > | pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the | > | pressure | > | drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly | > | restrictive | > | fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. | > | | > | 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without | further | > | data. | > | | > | 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes | against | > | the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the | fuel | > | pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood | of | > | fuel | > | into the engine. | > | | > | More data/information needed on the engine and the operational | regime | > | where | > | this happens. | > | | > | Ed A | > | | > | ----- Original Message ----- | > | From: "James E. Clark" | > | To: | > | Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | > | | > | | > | > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" | > | | > | > | > | > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) | that has | > | > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has | > | fluctuations | > | at | > | > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! | > | > | > | > | > | > Anyone else ever experience this? | > | > | > | > | > | > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? | > | > | > | > | > | > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as | 0.5 | > | PSI | > | but | > | > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) | > | > | > | > | > | > James | | | | | ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 01:58:35 PM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" Understood. This occurred though with both mechanical and electric boost on, in straight and level flight at about 2000 ft. Hmmmmmmm. Thanks, James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Bristol | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 4:38 PM | To: rv-list@matronics.com | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | --> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol | | It could also be that at 2400 the pump is putting out it's max pressure. | If so, then when you ask for more power the pressure will have to drop | to give the flow that's necessary. | I don't have first hand knowledge of carb fuel pressure problems since | I have FI, but weirdness seems to be the rule. | | Dave | | James E. Clark wrote: | | >--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" | | > | >Thanks Ed. | > | >I thought about a flow restriction and about the alignment of the vent | >outlets. | > | >We changed the mechanical fuel pump (for another new one) as there was | also | >a case when the boost was turned off, fuel pressure went to "zero" in | >flight. That seemed to fix that particular issue. | > | >This was observed with the boost pump ON. | > | >The engine seemed to operate just fine throughout all of this. | > | >The gauge was steady at 2400 RPM, fluctuated at higher, started down at | even | >higher and went back to steady when RPM taken back to 2400 or less. So I | >*assume* that part is fine. | > | >Will look at vents when I get to airport again and suggest a checking of | the | >lines (again) for good flow. We checked flow before changing the | mechanical | >pump. | > | >Again, thanks. | > | >James | > | > | >| -----Original Message----- | >| From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | >| server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed Anderson | >| Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 2:04 PM | >| To: rv-list@matronics.com | >| Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | >| | >| --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Anderson" | | >| | >| James, there are several possibility | >| | >| 1. one possibility is he has a restriction in the fuel line at some | >| point. | >| Its big enough to flow fuel at lower flow rates without a (much) of a | >| pressure drop, but once your fuel flow exceed a certain limit the | >| pressure | >| drop starts to increase. This could be a pinched line, a overly | >| restrictive | >| fuel filter, smaller opening in a fuel line fitting, etc. | >| | >| 2. Another possibility is the fuel pump, hard to say without further | >| data. | >| | >| 3. If a carburetor is used, then the float bowl pin which pushes | against | >| the fuel inlet may not be functioning properly - although if the fuel | >| pressure was dropping because of this, there would probably a flood | of | >| fuel | >| into the engine. | >| | >| More data/information needed on the engine and the operational regime | >| where | >| this happens. | >| | >| Ed A | >| | >| ----- Original Message ----- | >| From: "James E. Clark" | >| To: | >| Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | >| | >| | >| > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" | >| | >| > | >| > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that | has | >| > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has | >| fluctuations | >| at | >| > > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! | >| > | >| > | >| > Anyone else ever experience this? | >| > | >| > | >| > Any ideas as to what might be happening here? | >| > | >| > | >| > We are aware that the Lycoming is supposed to run with as low as | 0.5 | >| PSI | >| but | >| > would feel a lot better if it was stable at 5.0 PSI. {:-) | >| > | >| > | >| > James | >| > | >| > | >| | >| | >| | >| | >| | > | > | > | > | | | | | ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 02:13:12 PM PST US From: "John Furey" Subject: RE: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" I have built 2 RV6A, One O-320, One O-360 Both have fuel pressure fluctuations between 0 and 5psi at random, no rpm/altitude/pitch consistency. Everything I have heard from Vans and others says that's "normal" I don't like that answer but in 700 hrs it's not caused any problem. However the boost pump always brings it back up. P.S. Note to Scott Jackson, sorry I have not notified you as I have been sick since Saturday and I can't find your email,but your parts were shipped Monday. John Furey ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 03:15:05 PM PST US From: dmedema@att.net Subject: RV-List: EGTs and Electronic Ignition 0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net I've been flying with our new engine monitor and performed an interesting test yesterday. After run-up, I stabilized the airplane at 1500 RPM and let the EGT temperatures stabilize. I then ran the airplane on the left mag only and the electronic ignition only and let the temperatures stabilize each time. The data below shows that the electronic ignition does a much better job getting the fuel burned than the mag, but it's definitely a win to have both on. Ground run at 1500 RPM Ignition Status Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta 1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41 2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19 3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67 4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35 The deltas are the difference between the mag (or EI) alone and when both are on. Another observation is that the EGTs really even out with only the mag on. Not sure what that is telling me. Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM Dynon Avionics ________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________ Time: 03:35:08 PM PST US From: dmedema@att.net Subject: RV-List: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D 0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net As I mentioned on my previous post, I've been testing our new engine monitor. In addition to the on-the-ground test I described in my last post, I also did some in-air work looking at leaning at 3000', 5000', and 7000'. My plane has an O320-E2D with a Sensenich fixed pitch prop. I have a Slick mag on the left ignition and a Lightspeed on the right side. The test was to stabilize the plane at each of the 3 altitudes with full-rich mixture and 2400 RPM. I then recorded the EGTs at this condition. I then slowly leaned the mixture to where the engine roughened and then richened just enough to get it to run smooth. I let it stabilize and recorded the temperatures. Here is the data: 3000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1220 1387 +167 2 1284 1421 +137 3 1364 1419 +55 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. 5000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1207 1358 +151 2 1229 1383 +154 3 1332 1390 +58 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. 7000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1137 1353 +216 2 1170 1381 +211 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. 4 1321 1373 +52 As you can see, cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be running much leaner than 1 and 2 when the mixture is full rich. I observe that the EGTs really even out when I lean the mixture. I note that on the ground at 1500 RPM full-rich, all my EGTs were in a fairly normal band from 1140-1193. Any of the engine gurus (or not so gurus) have any thoughts about what I'm seeing? Has anyone else done a test like this? If so, can you post your results? Thanks, Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM Dynon Avionics ________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________ Time: 03:38:27 PM PST US From: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" Subject: RE: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? --> RV-List message posted by: "Gordon or Marge Comfort" Subject: Re: RV-List: pipe thread to AN - steel or Aluminum? --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Callender" If anyone knows who that worthy is, I >>would like to contact him. I would change out the valve on the -4 >>tout de suite. Gordon Comfort >> N363GC Gordon, try http://www.epm-avcorp.com/ssdiv.html Tom Callender RV9 N793JT Tom: Good tip. Thank you very much. Gordon ________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________ Time: 03:44:41 PM PST US From: "Tom Barnes" Subject: RV-List: Headset audio wire broken at phone jack --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom Barnes" List, I must have a broken wire in ear tone side of my headsets. I can wiggle the wire and cause on/off sound. Because the wire is broken within the molded heat shrink from the wire to the phone jack, I don't want to rush in and cut it open to repair it. Are there any tricks to opening it up and putting it back together keeping the whole thing neat? Or is this one of those types of things everyone does regardless of the mess and just not worry about it? Or third, send it to the factory for repair? I'd appreciate all comments. Tom Barnes Buffalo Grove, IL ________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________ Time: 04:04:18 PM PST US From: "John Furey" Subject: RE: RV-List: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D --> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" Looks pretty normal to me. Fuel distribution is more balanced at peak but you want to be at least 50 rich or lean(hard to do with a carb)of peak. So you will be pushing the red knob in and leaving it there. Also pay attention to Cyl head temps with mixture change. John Furey RV6A O-360 RV6A O-320 ________________________________ Message 30 ____________________________________ Time: 04:08:38 PM PST US From: "Mike Robertson" Subject: RE: RV-List: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D --> RV-List message posted by: "Mike Robertson" Doug, In our RV-9A with an IO 320 D1A I have seen very similar results on EGT with numbers right in the same range you are seeing. I have also seen that it has been quite good to note these temps as twice now my EGT and CHT have shown me problems that we were able to troubleshoot before any damage was caused. I still have not figured out exactly what happened but I am suspicious of the fuel nozzles clogging on the fuel injeciton. Mike Robertson >From: dmedema@att.net >Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com >To: rv-list@matronics.com >Subject: RV-List: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D >Date: Thu, 24 Feb 2005 23:30:18 +0000 0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE >Received: by and from look like IP addresses > >--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net > >As I mentioned on my previous post, I've been testing our >new engine monitor. In addition to the on-the-ground test >I described in my last post, I also did some in-air work >looking at leaning at 3000', 5000', and 7000'. My plane >has an O320-E2D with a Sensenich fixed pitch prop. I have >a Slick mag on the left ignition and a Lightspeed on the >right side. > >The test was to stabilize the plane at each of the 3 altitudes >with full-rich mixture and 2400 RPM. I then recorded the EGTs >at this condition. I then slowly leaned the mixture to where >the engine roughened and then richened just enough to get it >to run smooth. I let it stabilize and recorded the temperatures. > >Here is the data: >3000' stable at 2400 RPM >Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta >1 1220 1387 +167 >2 1284 1421 +137 >3 1364 1419 +55 >4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. > >5000' stable at 2400 RPM >Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta >1 1207 1358 +151 >2 1229 1383 +154 >3 1332 1390 +58 >4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. > >7000' stable at 2400 RPM >Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta >1 1137 1353 +216 >2 1170 1381 +211 >3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. >4 1321 1373 +52 > >As you can see, cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be running >much leaner than 1 and 2 when the mixture is full >rich. I observe that the EGTs really even out when I >lean the mixture. > >I note that on the ground at 1500 RPM full-rich, all >my EGTs were in a fairly normal band from 1140-1193. > >Any of the engine gurus (or not so gurus) have any >thoughts about what I'm seeing? Has anyone else done >a test like this? If so, can you post your results? > >Thanks, >Doug Medema >RV-6A N276DM >Dynon Avionics > > ________________________________ Message 31 ____________________________________ Time: 04:16:32 PM PST US From: "Michael Hilger" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Hilger" ----- Original Message ----- From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has fluctuations at > 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! James James, My -6, O360-A1A, carb, Sensenich has exhibited the following: OAT below about 10 F and altitude above 5,000 ft. or so causes a drop in fuel pressure and a loss of power but only at full throttle (normally in a climb). As soon as the boost pump is turned on or the throttle is retarded slightly the engine picks up again. It has done this through four winters and 650 hours. A friend of mine (very experienced with engine work) told me a PA-32 Lance he once maintained did the same thing (although fuel injected). They changed the engine driven pump twice and didn't fix it. He speculated the cold was stiffening the fuel pump diaphragm and inhibiting it's ability to cycle at higher rpm. I have cooling air going to my pump and when I lessened that the problem abated somewhat. My fuel pressure does fluctuate somewhat but, other than what I just described, has never been a problem. Mike Hilger RV-6 N207AM Minnesota ________________________________ Message 32 ____________________________________ Time: 04:31:25 PM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Headset audio wire broken at phone jack --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com Tom You don't say what brand the headsets are. I had a similar problem with my Lightspeed 20XLs. I called them, and they sent me new cables including the battery box for free -- for 2 headsets. They were about 3 years old. No questions asked. Great company. I'll buy from them again. Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying) In a message dated 2/24/05 6:45:42 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, skytop@megsinet.net writes: List, I must have a broken wire in ear tone side of my headsets. I can wiggle the wire and cause on/off sound. Because the wire is broken within the molded heat shrink from the wire to the phone jack, I don't want to rush in and cut it open to repair it. Are there any tricks to opening it up and putting it back together keeping the whole thing neat? Or is this one of those types of things everyone does regardless of the mess and just not worry about it? Or third, send it to the factory for repair? I'd appreciate all comments. Tom Barnes Buffalo Grove, IL ________________________________ Message 33 ____________________________________ Time: 05:03:57 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: subject line --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Wheeler, just curious why you change the subject line every time you reply? do not archive )_( Dan Hi Dan, two reasons, first I use the digest so when I am responding outlook automatically puts the "digest" header into the subject line. and two, in most cases I am responding to something in a post but it may not be related to the subject directly, such that one would think to search on that topic. This post was an example. The original was about E-mags, but my post was about stud installations in general, which may be better searched for under the topic of "stud installs". Did you fly today? I got up yesterday under the trailing edge of the storm from hell. Been just under one month... had a blast, two more clouds will never forget me. ;{) Too bad about SZP Santa Paula, that was one of my favorite airports. See attached link to the worst video I have ever seen. http://wms.scripps.com/ventura/airport.wmv do not archive - again ________________________________ Message 34 ____________________________________ Time: 06:26:59 PM PST US From: "John D. Heath" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because: 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and anodized oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly grounded. 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the case to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump provides. Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications. 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has a vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged. 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is exposed towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero. Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself as towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do what everelse it takes to secure piece of mind. John D. Heath DO NOT ARCHIVE ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Hilger" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > --> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Hilger" > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "James E. Clark" > To: > Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" > > A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has > great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has fluctuations > at >> 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! > > James > > > ________________________________ Message 35 ____________________________________ Time: 07:39:28 PM PST US From: "Todd Wiechman" Subject: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wiechman" On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined before priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint adhering only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310 Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5 minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must prime within 7 days or do the process again. This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA. Any questions, just email me. I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks Todd Wiechman A&P IA Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models) Wichita, KS 316-210-5670 ________________________________ Message 36 ____________________________________ Time: 08:48:54 PM PST US From: "Scott Jackson" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" All excellent data points ( learned that term on the aero-electric list) and I'll check them out. Thanks, Scott in VAncouver ----- Original Message ----- From: "John D. Heath" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" > > Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because: > 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and anodized > oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly > grounded. > > 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the > case > to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually > that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump > provides. > Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications. > > 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has > a > vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged. > > 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is > exposed > towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl > relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero. > > Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself as > towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do what > everelse it takes to secure piece of mind. > > John D. Heath > > DO NOT ARCHIVE > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Michael Hilger" > To: > Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... > > >> --> RV-List message posted by: "Michael Hilger" >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "James E. Clark" >> To: >> Subject: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... >> >> >> --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" >> >> >> A friend of mine has an RV9A (O-320 carbureted, FP Sensenich) that has >> great fuel pressure (> 5 PSI) at 2400 RPM and less, but has fluctuations >> at >>> 2400 and starts going DOWN at > 2450RPM! >> >> James >> > >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 37 ____________________________________ Time: 08:50:48 PM PST US From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" I hate to tell you this man, but your "professional painter" isn't exactly right. In fact, that opening statement is flat out wrong. Whether or not your paint is going to "stick" to the plane depens a LOT more on the primer & paint combination used, as well as the surface preparation you put into it. I'm not saying Alodine is a bad thing to do to your plane before painting, but it's far from a "Requirement". We don't want people to start running scared just because they didn't use the exact steps below. I'm sure the SportAir workshops are great, and I'm sure the painter was skilled individual, and I'm sure you learned a bunch, but not all of it is entirely true. There isn't enough whitespace here to go into this in detail, the archives contain TONS of information on this subject, as well as literally hundreds of internet sites that will also give you info as well. Just my 2 cents! Cheers, Stein Bruch RV6's, Minneapolis -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Wiechman Subject: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wiechman" On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined before priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint adhering only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310 Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5 minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must prime within 7 days or do the process again. This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA. Any questions, just email me. I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks Todd Wiechman A&P IA Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models) Wichita, KS 316-210-5670