Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:32 AM - Re: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D (SportAV8R@aol.com)
2. 05:48 AM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (James E. Clark)
3. 05:53 AM - Re: Alodining before painting!! (Tom & Cathy Ervin)
4. 06:04 AM - Carburator problem (Charles Heathco)
5. 06:48 AM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
6. 06:49 AM - Re: Carburator problem (James E. Clark)
7. 07:07 AM - EGT's and leaning on my O320-E2D (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR)
8. 07:34 AM - Re: Alodining before painting!! (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
9. 08:08 AM - RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question (J D Newsum)
10. 09:09 AM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (John D. Heath)
11. 09:09 AM - Re: Carburator problem (Chuck Weyant)
12. 09:22 AM - RV4 canopy brace (Moore, Warren)
13. 09:23 AM - Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question (Ed Holyoke)
14. 09:34 AM - Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question (Neil McLeod)
15. 11:16 AM - Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question (HCRV6@aol.com)
16. 12:05 PM - PHX Hangar Available (Paul Besing)
17. 12:09 PM - RV8 empannage and wing project For Sale (Textor, Jack)
18. 12:53 PM - Slightly off topic simulators (Chris W)
19. 03:08 PM - egts (Wheeler North)
20. 03:44 PM - Re: RV4 canopy brace (Dean Pichon)
21. 07:10 PM - Re: RV4 canopy brace (Charlie England)
22. 07:37 PM - Re: egts (Larry Bowen)
23. 09:11 PM - RV6 DWG 14 (David Burton)
Message 1
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|
Subject: | EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
I have same setup as you except dual Slick mags. You are having much more inequity
among cylinders at full rich than I am, but that may just be throttle-plate
effects on airflow distribution at partial throttle. Overall it looks like
you are running too lean a jetting; see the archives for extensive (and confusing)
hashing-out of this topic. I see several hundred degree delta on all cyls
from rich to full lean in cruise, and can lean to at least 30 LOP before it
gets rough, if at an altitude that allows wide-open throttle operations.
I did your experiment several times in the olden days, but I'm bad about misplacing
records. I need to do it again ;-)
Bill B
carbureted 160 hp O-320-E2D with fixed Sensenich
Message 2
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Subject: | Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
THANKS John!!
Good stuff to go and check.
Also I removed the "do not ......." as I think your comments are worthy of
being in the archives.
James
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
| server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John D. Heath
| Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 9:23 PM
| To: rv-list@matronics.com
| Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ...
|
| --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
|
| Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because:
| 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and
| anodized
| oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly
| grounded.
|
| 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the
| case
| to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually
| that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump
| provides.
| Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications.
|
| 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has
| a
| vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged.
|
| 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is
| exposed
| towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl
| relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero.
|
| Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself
| as
| towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do
| what
| everelse it takes to secure piece of mind.
|
| John D. Heath
|
{SNIP}
Message 3
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|
Subject: | Re: Alodining before painting!! |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" <tcervin@valkyrie.net>
I agree Stein. Dupont makes a great DTM LF Epoxy primer that applied over a
clean scotch brited surface is impossible to get of after 24 hrs without a
paint stripper! The added advantage is you apply your finish coat directly
over it as you would any primer sealer.
It save weight, time and will not let go. Just my thoughts on the
matter and I have been painting since the lacquer days.
Tom in Ohio
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Alodining before painting!!
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> I hate to tell you this man, but your "professional painter" isn't exactly
> right. In fact, that opening statement is flat out wrong.
>
> Whether or not your paint is going to "stick" to the plane depens a LOT
> more
> on the primer & paint combination used, as well as the surface preparation
> you put into it.
>
> I'm not saying Alodine is a bad thing to do to your plane before painting,
> but it's far from a "Requirement". We don't want people to start running
> scared just because they didn't use the exact steps below.
>
> I'm sure the SportAir workshops are great, and I'm sure the painter was
> skilled individual, and I'm sure you learned a bunch, but not all of it is
> entirely true.
>
> There isn't enough whitespace here to go into this in detail, the archives
> contain TONS of information on this subject, as well as literally hundreds
> of internet sites that will also give you info as well.
>
> Just my 2 cents!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Wiechman
> To: brian.kraut@engalt.com
> Subject: RV-List: Alodining before painting!!
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman@hotmail.com>
>
> On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined
> before
> priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint
> adhering
> only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but
> you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline
> Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310
> Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per
> instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the
> mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about
> scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water
> very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for
> about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on
> the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5
> minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must
> prime within 7 days or do the process again.
> This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the
> EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA.
> Any questions, just email me.
> I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks
>
> Todd Wiechman A&P IA
> Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models)
> Wichita, KS
> 316-210-5670
>
>
>
Message 4
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|
Subject: | Carburator problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
What is this?? 11 people were able to repeat each others thoughts on fuel presure
guage, but no one has had a carb problem??? Charles heathco RV6a
Message 5
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|
Subject: | Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
John,
I have been thinking about this subject since it started, and could not come
up with the answer. This is the best and most complete explanation yet. It
makes perfect sense. Why in the world would you not want it in the archives?
It sounds like we need a differential pressure sensor to reference back to
the pressure in the float bowl. This could be done by connecting the vent
hole back to the carb bowl with a small piece of tubing. That may be hard to
do, but if you figure out how, let the rest of us know if that fixed it!
Having said all that, if the fuel pump diaphragm is exposed to 5 psi ambient
pressure, it may not pump at all. Is this correct?
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 2/24/05 9:27:55 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Alto_Q@direcway.com writes:
--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because:
1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and anodized
oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly grounded.
2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the case
to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually
that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump provides.
Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications.
3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has a
vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged.
4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is exposed
towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl
relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero.
Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself as
towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do what
everelse it takes to secure piece of mind.
John D. Heath
Message 6
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|
Subject: | Carburator problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" <james@nextupventures.com>
Charles,
There are people who have had various carburetor problems in the past as I
recall. Don't remember one with the loose screws. Might that have caused the
wallowing out??
As to repair, in the test phase of our RV6 (O-320), I had a series of
"vibration" problems that I cha$ed and cha$ed and cha$ed. (My buddies even
started calling me "vibes".) Most changes seemed to improve things but not
really fix it. When the carburetor made the suspect list (down low) it was
REPLACED. Different strokes for different folks.
At a minimum I would go with a whole new kit. More than likely I would
either send it off for overhaul or replace it entirely.
Not the direct answer to your question but at least one view. :-)
Best wishes on the repair. Fly safe.
James
| -----Original Message-----
| From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
| server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Heathco
| Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 9:04 AM
| To: rv-list@matronics.com
| Subject: RV-List: Carburator problem
|
| --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
|
| What is this?? 11 people were able to repeat each others thoughts on fuel
| presure guage, but no one has had a carb problem??? Charles heathco RV6a
|
|
|
|
|
Message 7
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|
Subject: | EGT's and leaning on my O320-E2D |
0.50 MIME_BASE64_LATIN RAW: Latin alphabet text using base64 encoding
1.01 MIME_BASE64_TEXT RAW: Message text disguised using base64 encoding
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" <Fred.Stucklen@UTCFuelCells.com>
Doug,
I'd say that you have a nice running engine. I'm seeing #3 & 4 run lean
first, but the EGT' delta between cylinders goes up significantly. In fact,
at 2400 RPM, 3000', in 15*F OAT, I'm seeing #4 CHT fall below 200*F, which
causes the engine to run even rougher.... Full throttle restores the EGT &
CHT delta much lower differences, but anything off of full throttle I'm
seeing big differences.
I thought that it was a full sharing issue but now I'm not sure... Using
two ElectroAIr electronic ignitions with auto spark plugs. Installing
aviation plugs this weekend to see if it makes a difference......
Fred Stucklen
RV-6A N926RV 365 Hrs
O-320-D1A with 9:1 pistons
_____
Time: 03:35:08 PM PST US
From: dmedema@att.net <mailto:dmedema@att.net>
Subject: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP
addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
<mailto:dmedema@att.net>
As I mentioned on my previous post, I've been testing our
new engine monitor. In addition to the on-the-ground test
I described in my last post, I also did some in-air work
looking at leaning at 3000', 5000', and 7000'. My plane
has an O320-E2D with a Sensenich fixed pitch prop. I have
a Slick mag on the left ignition and a Lightspeed on the
right side.
The test was to stabilize the plane at each of the 3 altitudes
with full-rich mixture and 2400 RPM. I then recorded the EGTs
at this condition. I then slowly leaned the mixture to where
the engine roughened and then richened just enough to get it
to run smooth. I let it stabilize and recorded the temperatures.
Here is the data:
3000' stable at 2400 RPM
Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
1 1220 1387 +167
2 1284 1421 +137
3 1364 1419 +55
4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st.
5000' stable at 2400 RPM
Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
1 1207 1358 +151
2 1229 1383 +154
3 1332 1390 +58
4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st.
7000' stable at 2400 RPM
Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
1 1137 1353 +216
2 1170 1381 +211
3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st.
4 1321 1373 +52
As you can see, cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be running
much leaner than 1 and 2 when the mixture is full
rich. I observe that the EGTs really even out when I
lean the mixture.
I note that on the ground at 1500 RPM full-rich, all
my EGTs were in a fairly normal band from 1140-1193.
Any of the engine gurus (or not so gurus) have any
thoughts about what I'm seeing? Has anyone else done
a test like this? If so, can you post your results?
Thanks,
Doug Medema
RV-6A N276DM
Dynon Avionics
Message 8
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|
Subject: | Alodining before painting!! |
--> RV-List message posted by:
I'll add to Stein's comment that in this very imperfect world, the
phosphoric acid is going to seep into lots of nooks and cracks and there is
no way that you will be able to rinse it off. You will consequently end up
with a fair amount of acid here and there which will worsen the problem.
Michle
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-
> server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
> Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 5:41 AM
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV-List: Alodining before painting!!
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> I hate to tell you this man, but your "professional painter" isn't exactly
> right. In fact, that opening statement is flat out wrong.
>
> Whether or not your paint is going to "stick" to the plane depens a LOT
> more
> on the primer & paint combination used, as well as the surface preparation
> you put into it.
>
> I'm not saying Alodine is a bad thing to do to your plane before painting,
> but it's far from a "Requirement". We don't want people to start running
> scared just because they didn't use the exact steps below.
>
> I'm sure the SportAir workshops are great, and I'm sure the painter was
> skilled individual, and I'm sure you learned a bunch, but not all of it is
> entirely true.
>
> There isn't enough whitespace here to go into this in detail, the archives
> contain TONS of information on this subject, as well as literally hundreds
> of internet sites that will also give you info as well.
>
> Just my 2 cents!
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Wiechman
> To: brian.kraut@engalt.com
> Subject: RV-List: Alodining before painting!!
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wiechman" <toddwiechman@hotmail.com>
>
> On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined
> before
> priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint
> adhering
> only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but
> you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline
> Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310
> Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per
> instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the
> mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about
> scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water
> very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for
> about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on
> the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5
> minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must
> prime within 7 days or do the process again.
> This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the
> EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA.
> Any questions, just email me.
> I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks
>
> Todd Wiechman A&P IA
> Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models)
> Wichita, KS
> 316-210-5670
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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|
Subject: | RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying
all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In
the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off
the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the
handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass.
I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if
so would you do it again?
Message 10
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|
Subject: | Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
Dan,
I think you'll find that the spring in the fuel pump is assisted by ambient
pressure unless the vent is restricted. Sometimes a line is attached at the
pump vent and piped over board with the thought in mind that fuel comes out
that vent if a pump diaphram ruptures. Other wise that fuel would go into
the crankcase. Lets try to make the list more complete
1. restricted fuel tank vent or vented to an area that has lower pressure at
higher airspeed
2. air leaks on the intake side of the pumps, to include a hung flop tube.
Boost pumps can sometimes overcome air leaks. Engine driven diaphram pumps
can not because of how much higher they are than the fuel source. there may
or may not be associated fuel leaks
3. Pump vent installation error that is repeated on subsequent repairs
because things tend to be put back the way they were.
4. internal leaks in the carb', loose Float needle seat, leaking needle at
the seat, Float full of fuel and sinking.
5. restricted fuel filters where ever they all might be
6. "If" for some reason a vacuum is developed in the crankcase, that can
inhibit engine pump operation.
I don't plan on ever developing a differential fuel preasure sensor, but if
I had it to do, here's how I would start. Auto Meter makes a fuel isolater
that amounts to a small disk (~3" Dia) that has a metal diaphram inside. I t
could be mounted near and attached to the oil manifold on the firewall. From
the other side of the diaphram run a line to the fuel preasure sending unit
that could be mounted anywhere with a more favoable ambient preasure. The
line between the sender and the isolater is fill with anti-freeze. That
means you could even mount the sender on the other side of the firewall and
not take preasurized fuel with it, or just use a direct reading gauge and
eliminate the elictrical circut.
John D.
It sounds like we need a differential pressure sensor to reference back
> to the pressure in the float bowl. This could be done by connecting the
> vent hole back to the carb bowl with a small piece of tubing. That may
> be
> hard to do, but if you figure out how, let the rest of us know if that
> fixed it!
>
> Having said all that, if the fuel pump diaphragm is exposed to 5 psi
> ambient pressure, it may not pump at all. Is this correct?
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying)
>
>
> In a message dated 2/24/05 9:27:55 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> Alto_Q@direcway.com writes:
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" <Alto_Q@direcway.com>
>
> Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because:
> 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and anodized
> oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly
> grounded.
>
> 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the
> case
> to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually
> that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump
> provides.
> Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications.
>
> 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has
> a
> vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged.
>
> 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is
> exposed
> towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl
> relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero.
>
> Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself
> as
> towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do
> what
> everelse it takes to secure piece of mind.
>
> John D. Heath
>
>
Message 11
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|
Subject: | Re: Carburator problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" <cweyant@chuckdirect.com>
Just wondering, what prop were/are you running?
Chuck
> As to repair, in the test phase of our RV6 (O-320), I had a series of
> "vibration" problems that I cha$ed and cha$ed and cha$ed. (My buddies even
> started calling me "vibes".) Most changes seemed to improve things but not
> really fix it. When the carburetor made the suspect list (down low) it was
> REPLACED. Different strokes for different folks.
>
> At a minimum I would go with a whole new kit. More than likely I would
> either send it off for overhaul or replace it entirely.
>
Message 12
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|
Subject: | RV4 canopy brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore@TidelandsOil.com>
been through the archives looking for a way to secure my -4's canopy. Like
something that would lock the canopy open, but not as complex as the
pnematic struts. Does anyone have any photos of the folding table leg
brace, or straight rod that they would be willing to share?
Thanks,
Warren Moore
N223WM
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Message 13
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Subject: | RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum
Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been
studying
all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.).
In
the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting
off
the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the
handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the
plexiglass.
I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique
and if
so would you do it again?
J.D.,
I cut the stub off. Then I put the plastic upside down on the table and
moved the frame around in it to find the fore and aft location where the
center bow curvature matched the plexi the best and marked it. You can't
do that with the stub on. When it came time to drill the hole for the
latch handle, it was too easy to get it in the right place. I bought
extra plastic washers from Van's (the one that goes on the latch tube
under the plexi) to put on top under the external handle. I only used
one on top so if you want one, I'll mail it to you.
The best single piece of advice I can give you is get the slider frame
fitted to the roll bar and rear fuselage as well as you possibly can
before you mess with the glass. Leave the frame a little narrow at the
front bottom corners 'cos the glass will pull it back out again.
Good luck with it. It'll probably drive you nuts and you'll eventually
whip it.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 Slider complete!
Message 14
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Subject: | RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" <bedrock@theriver.com>
I trimmed mine to the thickness of the plexi before fitting. A slight
protrusion like that didn't make much difference in the fitting and I
drilled the hole for it as soon as I had the frame located in the plexi,
And it worked out fine. I read all the available instruction such as Cone's
and Justice but ended up pretty much using Vans. The other ones are older
and may have been the best at the time but I think Van's work best for
today's product.
Neil McLeod, Finishing
Bisbee, AZ
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum
Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying
all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In
the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off
the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the
handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass.
I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if
so would you do it again?
Message 15
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|
Subject: | Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
In a message dated 2/25/05 9:24:02 AM Pacific Standard Time,
bicyclop@pacbell.net writes:
<< Good luck with it. It'll probably drive you nuts and you'll eventually
whip it. >>
Amen to that!
Do not archive
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 16
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|
Subject: | PHX Hangar Available |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <paul@kitlog.com>
I have a hangar available April 1. Located Deer Valley (KDVT).
Please email off list for details.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Log Software
www.kitlog.com
do not archive
Message 17
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|
Subject: | RV8 empannage and wing project For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
Hi all,
Thanks for the nice response to my earlier post regarding the sale of my
project. To make it a little easier I "threw" together a web site last
weekend. For more details on the project go to www.textorfamily.com
<http://www.textorfamily.com/> .
Thanks
Jack Textor
Message 18
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|
Subject: | Slightly off topic simulators |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
After hearing about a new head tracking gizmo that adds a whole new
dimension of realism, I decided to buy MS FS 2004. I also found an
RV-7/7A model for that FS 2004. Even in a simulator, that is a
seriously fun plane to fly. Anyway, hear are some things you would be
crazy to try in your real RV
http://www.thewishzone.com/aviation/Simulator/
The only things I don't like about the simulator is, only the 7A has
autopilot, and if you have failures turned on, almost every time you use
the flaps, it trips the flap motor breaker, even if you are sitting on
the ground not moving.
do not archive
--
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 19
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
Ground run at 1500 RPM
Ignition Status
Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta
1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41
2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19
3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67
4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35
Spread 53 8 85
Here is the data:
3000' stable at 2400 RPM
Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
1 1220 1387 +167
2 1284 1421 +137
3 1364 1419 +55
4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st.
Spread 159 34
5000' stable at 2400 RPM
Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
1 1207 1358 +151
2 1229 1383 +154
3 1332 1390 +58
4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st.
Spread 127 32
7000' stable at 2400 RPM
Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
1 1137 1353 +216
2 1170 1381 +211
3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st.
4 1321 1373 +52
Spread 184 28
Doug,
It would appear that your throttle setting wasn't at full as evidenced by
the big difference between the fore and aft cylinders. But when you lean it
the mixing gets a little more even.
You might try a full throttle vs part throttle to see if the spread gets
narrower at full.
The lower delta at lower altitudes is normal, but it may mean your carb is
jetted just a little lean since the actual value is fairly small. I'm not
sure it needs to be changed as lycoming recommends no leaning above 75%
power so there may not be a need. In other words how much time do you spend
below 3000 ft below 75% power?
Did you say your probes are less than 4" from the flange? These temps aren't
bad, but the probe life may be shorter. The joints in the Vetterman exhaust
do make probe installation a little constrained. Not sure if you are using
that exhaust but your temps parallel mine in the slightly bigger 0-360
cylinders.
I would be interested to know what your CHTs did with the left mag vs right
LS system while in flight. Theorectically with more heat going out the
exhaust on the mag only, the CHTs should decline.
All in all, cool data.
W
Message 20
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|
Subject: | RV4 canopy brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" <deanpichon@msn.com>
A pneumatic strut is pretty simple - and inexpensive, too. Mine has worked
well for 3+ years. McMaster-Carr sells struts and all the necessary
hardware to anchor the ends.
Good Luck,
Dean
RV-4
Bolton, MA
----Original Message Follows----
From: "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore@tidelandsoil.com>
Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy brace
--> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren"
<Warren.Moore@TidelandsOil.com>
been through the archives looking for a way to secure my -4's canopy. Like
something that would lock the canopy open, but not as complex as the
pnematic struts. Does anyone have any photos of the folding table leg
brace, or straight rod that they would be willing to share?
Thanks,
Warren Moore
N223WM
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AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADeFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeAE2ACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA4hQAA
AQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAAgEJEAEAAAB+AQAAegEAALsBAABMWkZ1BEsn0AMACgByY3BnMTI1FjIA+Atg
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dHVzLnRpZGVsYW5kc29pbC5jb20+AAAAu2o
On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to
get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: RV4 canopy brace |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
>----Original Message Follows----
>From: "Moore, Warren" <Warren.Moore@tidelandsoil.com>
>To: "'RV List'" <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy brace
>Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 09:19:24 -0800
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren"
><Warren.Moore@TidelandsOil.com>
>
>been through the archives looking for a way to secure my -4's canopy. Like
>something that would lock the canopy open, but not as complex as the
>pnematic struts. Does anyone have any photos of the folding table leg
>brace, or straight rod that they would be willing to share?
>
>Thanks,
>Warren Moore
>N223WM
>
If you really don't want the strut, I'll try to take a couple of pics of
the latching brace on my -4 for you. Send me a reminder off list.
Charlie
(would rather have a strut.)
Message 22
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Related topic -
What are you doing with heat risers to even out the cyl head temps? (The
dams in front of the front cylinders) I'm still fiddling with mine. I can
get 1 and 3 within a few degrees of eachother. 2 and 4 are another story.
2 is the hottest and 4 is typically 40 degrees less. I'd like to even them
up a little more. Anyone have pictures of the shape and size of their heat
risers, especially for number 2?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wheeler North [mailto:wnorth@sdccd.edu]
> Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 6:07 PM
> To: 'rv-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: egts
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
>
> Ground run at 1500 RPM
> Ignition Status
> Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta
> 1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41
> 2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19
> 3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67
> 4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35
> Spread 53 8 85
>
> Here is the data:
> 3000' stable at 2400 RPM
> Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
> 1 1220 1387 +167
> 2 1284 1421 +137
> 3 1364 1419 +55
> 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st.
> Spread 159 34
>
> 5000' stable at 2400 RPM
> Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
> 1 1207 1358 +151
> 2 1229 1383 +154
> 3 1332 1390 +58
> 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st.
> Spread 127 32
>
> 7000' stable at 2400 RPM
> Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
> 1 1137 1353 +216
> 2 1170 1381 +211
> 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st.
> 4 1321 1373 +52
> Spread 184 28
>
> Doug,
>
> It would appear that your throttle setting wasn't at full as
> evidenced by the big difference between the fore and aft
> cylinders. But when you lean it the mixing gets a little more even.
>
> You might try a full throttle vs part throttle to see if the
> spread gets narrower at full.
>
> The lower delta at lower altitudes is normal, but it may mean
> your carb is jetted just a little lean since the actual value
> is fairly small. I'm not sure it needs to be changed as
> lycoming recommends no leaning above 75% power so there may
> not be a need. In other words how much time do you spend
> below 3000 ft below 75% power?
>
> Did you say your probes are less than 4" from the flange?
> These temps aren't bad, but the probe life may be shorter.
> The joints in the Vetterman exhaust do make probe
> installation a little constrained. Not sure if you are using
> that exhaust but your temps parallel mine in the slightly
> bigger 0-360 cylinders.
>
> I would be interested to know what your CHTs did with the
> left mag vs right LS system while in flight. Theorectically
> with more heat going out the exhaust on the mag only, the
> CHTs should decline.
>
> All in all, cool data.
>
> W
>
>
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Can anyone give me the details of Revision 10 on I believe DWG 14? It's a
fuselage skin clearance notch in the W-607D doubler. I know there is
supposed to be one, but I don't have it...
Thanks! I'd like to take advantage of this nice weather to paint some parts
this weekend.
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