---------------------------------------------------------- RV-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 02/25/05: 23 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:32 AM - Re: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D (SportAV8R@aol.com) 2. 05:48 AM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (James E. Clark) 3. 05:53 AM - Re: Alodining before painting!! (Tom & Cathy Ervin) 4. 06:04 AM - Carburator problem (Charles Heathco) 5. 06:48 AM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (Hopperdhh@aol.com) 6. 06:49 AM - Re: Carburator problem (James E. Clark) 7. 07:07 AM - EGT's and leaning on my O320-E2D (Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR) 8. 07:34 AM - Re: Alodining before painting!! (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com) 9. 08:08 AM - RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question (J D Newsum) 10. 09:09 AM - Re: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... (John D. Heath) 11. 09:09 AM - Re: Carburator problem (Chuck Weyant) 12. 09:22 AM - RV4 canopy brace (Moore, Warren) 13. 09:23 AM - Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question (Ed Holyoke) 14. 09:34 AM - Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question (Neil McLeod) 15. 11:16 AM - Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question (HCRV6@aol.com) 16. 12:05 PM - PHX Hangar Available (Paul Besing) 17. 12:09 PM - RV8 empannage and wing project For Sale (Textor, Jack) 18. 12:53 PM - Slightly off topic simulators (Chris W) 19. 03:08 PM - egts (Wheeler North) 20. 03:44 PM - Re: RV4 canopy brace (Dean Pichon) 21. 07:10 PM - Re: RV4 canopy brace (Charlie England) 22. 07:37 PM - Re: egts (Larry Bowen) 23. 09:11 PM - RV6 DWG 14 (David Burton) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:32:07 AM PST US From: SportAV8R@aol.com Subject: RE: RV-List: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D --> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com I have same setup as you except dual Slick mags. You are having much more inequity among cylinders at full rich than I am, but that may just be throttle-plate effects on airflow distribution at partial throttle. Overall it looks like you are running too lean a jetting; see the archives for extensive (and confusing) hashing-out of this topic. I see several hundred degree delta on all cyls from rich to full lean in cruise, and can lean to at least 30 LOP before it gets rough, if at an altitude that allows wide-open throttle operations. I did your experiment several times in the olden days, but I'm bad about misplacing records. I need to do it again ;-) Bill B carbureted 160 hp O-320-E2D with fixed Sensenich ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:48:42 AM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" THANKS John!! Good stuff to go and check. Also I removed the "do not ......." as I think your comments are worthy of being in the archives. James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John D. Heath | Sent: Thursday, February 24, 2005 9:23 PM | To: rv-list@matronics.com | Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... | | --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" | | Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because: | 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and | anodized | oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly | grounded. | | 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the | case | to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually | that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump | provides. | Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications. | | 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has | a | vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged. | | 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is | exposed | towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl | relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero. | | Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself | as | towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do | what | everelse it takes to secure piece of mind. | | John D. Heath | {SNIP} ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:53:14 AM PST US From: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" Subject: Re: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! --> RV-List message posted by: "Tom & Cathy Ervin" I agree Stein. Dupont makes a great DTM LF Epoxy primer that applied over a clean scotch brited surface is impossible to get of after 24 hrs without a paint stripper! The added advantage is you apply your finish coat directly over it as you would any primer sealer. It save weight, time and will not let go. Just my thoughts on the matter and I have been painting since the lacquer days. Tom in Ohio ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stein Bruch" Subject: RE: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" > > I hate to tell you this man, but your "professional painter" isn't exactly > right. In fact, that opening statement is flat out wrong. > > Whether or not your paint is going to "stick" to the plane depens a LOT > more > on the primer & paint combination used, as well as the surface preparation > you put into it. > > I'm not saying Alodine is a bad thing to do to your plane before painting, > but it's far from a "Requirement". We don't want people to start running > scared just because they didn't use the exact steps below. > > I'm sure the SportAir workshops are great, and I'm sure the painter was > skilled individual, and I'm sure you learned a bunch, but not all of it is > entirely true. > > There isn't enough whitespace here to go into this in detail, the archives > contain TONS of information on this subject, as well as literally hundreds > of internet sites that will also give you info as well. > > Just my 2 cents! > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Wiechman > To: brian.kraut@engalt.com > Subject: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wiechman" > > On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined > before > priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint > adhering > only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but > you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline > Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310 > Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per > instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the > mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about > scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water > very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for > about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on > the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5 > minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must > prime within 7 days or do the process again. > This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the > EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA. > Any questions, just email me. > I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks > > Todd Wiechman A&P IA > Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models) > Wichita, KS > 316-210-5670 > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:04:54 AM PST US From: "Charles Heathco" Subject: RV-List: Carburator problem --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" What is this?? 11 people were able to repeat each others thoughts on fuel presure guage, but no one has had a carb problem??? Charles heathco RV6a ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:48:53 AM PST US From: Hopperdhh@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com John, I have been thinking about this subject since it started, and could not come up with the answer. This is the best and most complete explanation yet. It makes perfect sense. Why in the world would you not want it in the archives? It sounds like we need a differential pressure sensor to reference back to the pressure in the float bowl. This could be done by connecting the vent hole back to the carb bowl with a small piece of tubing. That may be hard to do, but if you figure out how, let the rest of us know if that fixed it! Having said all that, if the fuel pump diaphragm is exposed to 5 psi ambient pressure, it may not pump at all. Is this correct? Dan Hopper Walton, IN RV-7A (Flying) In a message dated 2/24/05 9:27:55 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, Alto_Q@direcway.com writes: --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because: 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and anodized oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly grounded. 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the case to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump provides. Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications. 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has a vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged. 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is exposed towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero. Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself as towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do what everelse it takes to secure piece of mind. John D. Heath ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:49:35 AM PST US From: "James E. Clark" Subject: RE: RV-List: Carburator problem --> RV-List message posted by: "James E. Clark" Charles, There are people who have had various carburetor problems in the past as I recall. Don't remember one with the loose screws. Might that have caused the wallowing out?? As to repair, in the test phase of our RV6 (O-320), I had a series of "vibration" problems that I cha$ed and cha$ed and cha$ed. (My buddies even started calling me "vibes".) Most changes seemed to improve things but not really fix it. When the carburetor made the suspect list (down low) it was REPLACED. Different strokes for different folks. At a minimum I would go with a whole new kit. More than likely I would either send it off for overhaul or replace it entirely. Not the direct answer to your question but at least one view. :-) Best wishes on the repair. Fly safe. James | -----Original Message----- | From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- | server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Charles Heathco | Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 9:04 AM | To: rv-list@matronics.com | Subject: RV-List: Carburator problem | | --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" | | What is this?? 11 people were able to repeat each others thoughts on fuel | presure guage, but no one has had a carb problem??? Charles heathco RV6a | | | | | ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 07:07:09 AM PST US From: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" Subject: RV-List: EGT's and leaning on my O320-E2D 0.50 MIME_BASE64_LATIN RAW: Latin alphabet text using base64 encoding 1.01 MIME_BASE64_TEXT RAW: Message text disguised using base64 encoding --> RV-List message posted by: "Stucklen, Frederic W UTPWR" Doug, I'd say that you have a nice running engine. I'm seeing #3 & 4 run lean first, but the EGT' delta between cylinders goes up significantly. In fact, at 2400 RPM, 3000', in 15*F OAT, I'm seeing #4 CHT fall below 200*F, which causes the engine to run even rougher.... Full throttle restores the EGT & CHT delta much lower differences, but anything off of full throttle I'm seeing big differences. I thought that it was a full sharing issue but now I'm not sure... Using two ElectroAIr electronic ignitions with auto spark plugs. Installing aviation plugs this weekend to see if it makes a difference...... Fred Stucklen RV-6A N926RV 365 Hrs O-320-D1A with 9:1 pistons _____ Time: 03:35:08 PM PST US From: dmedema@att.net Subject: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D 0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses --> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net As I mentioned on my previous post, I've been testing our new engine monitor. In addition to the on-the-ground test I described in my last post, I also did some in-air work looking at leaning at 3000', 5000', and 7000'. My plane has an O320-E2D with a Sensenich fixed pitch prop. I have a Slick mag on the left ignition and a Lightspeed on the right side. The test was to stabilize the plane at each of the 3 altitudes with full-rich mixture and 2400 RPM. I then recorded the EGTs at this condition. I then slowly leaned the mixture to where the engine roughened and then richened just enough to get it to run smooth. I let it stabilize and recorded the temperatures. Here is the data: 3000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1220 1387 +167 2 1284 1421 +137 3 1364 1419 +55 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. 5000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1207 1358 +151 2 1229 1383 +154 3 1332 1390 +58 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. 7000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1137 1353 +216 2 1170 1381 +211 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. 4 1321 1373 +52 As you can see, cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be running much leaner than 1 and 2 when the mixture is full rich. I observe that the EGTs really even out when I lean the mixture. I note that on the ground at 1500 RPM full-rich, all my EGTs were in a fairly normal band from 1140-1193. Any of the engine gurus (or not so gurus) have any thoughts about what I'm seeing? Has anyone else done a test like this? If so, can you post your results? Thanks, Doug Medema RV-6A N276DM Dynon Avionics ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 07:34:55 AM PST US From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com Subject: RE: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! --> RV-List message posted by: I'll add to Stein's comment that in this very imperfect world, the phosphoric acid is going to seep into lots of nooks and cracks and there is no way that you will be able to rinse it off. You will consequently end up with a fair amount of acid here and there which will worsen the problem. Michle > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list- > server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch > Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 5:41 AM > To: rv-list@matronics.com > Subject: RE: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" > > I hate to tell you this man, but your "professional painter" isn't exactly > right. In fact, that opening statement is flat out wrong. > > Whether or not your paint is going to "stick" to the plane depens a LOT > more > on the primer & paint combination used, as well as the surface preparation > you put into it. > > I'm not saying Alodine is a bad thing to do to your plane before painting, > but it's far from a "Requirement". We don't want people to start running > scared just because they didn't use the exact steps below. > > I'm sure the SportAir workshops are great, and I'm sure the painter was > skilled individual, and I'm sure you learned a bunch, but not all of it is > entirely true. > > There isn't enough whitespace here to go into this in detail, the archives > contain TONS of information on this subject, as well as literally hundreds > of internet sites that will also give you info as well. > > Just my 2 cents! > > Cheers, > Stein Bruch > RV6's, Minneapolis > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Todd Wiechman > To: brian.kraut@engalt.com > Subject: RV-List: Alodining before painting!! > > > --> RV-List message posted by: "Todd Wiechman" > > On the exterior of an airplane, the aluminum must always be alodined > before > priming and painting!! If you don't, you risk the primer and paint > adhering > only a year or two, then flaking or chipping off. Not only alodining, but > you should always wash with a chemical, such as Poly Fiber 310 Alkaline > Cleaner, then acid wash with a phosphoric acid like Poly Fiber 2310 > Phosphoric Acid, before alodining. Mix the Alkaline Cleaner as per > instructions on the bottle, then use a red Scotchbrite pad dipped in the > mix, going over the whole structure with the pad, and don't worry about > scratching the aluminum with this type of pad. Wash off with clean water > very well, then spray on the Phosphoric Acid, never letting it dry, for > about 3-5 minutes, then wash off very well with clean water. Then spray on > the alodine mixture, also never letting it dry, allowing it to remain 3-5 > minutes, then rinsing with clean water as well. After alodining, you must > prime within 7 days or do the process again. > This was information learned from a professional painter that teaches the > EAA Sportair Classes down in Griffin, GA. > Any questions, just email me. > I am sure there are many who would be interested! Thanks > > Todd Wiechman A&P IA > Kitplane Crafters (Builder of all RV Models) > Wichita, KS > 316-210-5670 > > > > > ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:08:04 AM PST US From: "J D Newsum" Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question --> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass. I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if so would you do it again? ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 09:09:53 AM PST US From: "John D. Heath" Subject: Re: RV-List: Dropping Fuel Pressure at Higher RPM ... --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" Dan, I think you'll find that the spring in the fuel pump is assisted by ambient pressure unless the vent is restricted. Sometimes a line is attached at the pump vent and piped over board with the thought in mind that fuel comes out that vent if a pump diaphram ruptures. Other wise that fuel would go into the crankcase. Lets try to make the list more complete 1. restricted fuel tank vent or vented to an area that has lower pressure at higher airspeed 2. air leaks on the intake side of the pumps, to include a hung flop tube. Boost pumps can sometimes overcome air leaks. Engine driven diaphram pumps can not because of how much higher they are than the fuel source. there may or may not be associated fuel leaks 3. Pump vent installation error that is repeated on subsequent repairs because things tend to be put back the way they were. 4. internal leaks in the carb', loose Float needle seat, leaking needle at the seat, Float full of fuel and sinking. 5. restricted fuel filters where ever they all might be 6. "If" for some reason a vacuum is developed in the crankcase, that can inhibit engine pump operation. I don't plan on ever developing a differential fuel preasure sensor, but if I had it to do, here's how I would start. Auto Meter makes a fuel isolater that amounts to a small disk (~3" Dia) that has a metal diaphram inside. I t could be mounted near and attached to the oil manifold on the firewall. From the other side of the diaphram run a line to the fuel preasure sending unit that could be mounted anywhere with a more favoable ambient preasure. The line between the sender and the isolater is fill with anti-freeze. That means you could even mount the sender on the other side of the firewall and not take preasurized fuel with it, or just use a direct reading gauge and eliminate the elictrical circut. John D. It sounds like we need a differential pressure sensor to reference back > to the pressure in the float bowl. This could be done by connecting the > vent hole back to the carb bowl with a small piece of tubing. That may > be > hard to do, but if you figure out how, let the rest of us know if that > fixed it! > > Having said all that, if the fuel pump diaphragm is exposed to 5 psi > ambient pressure, it may not pump at all. Is this correct? > > Dan Hopper > Walton, IN > RV-7A (Flying) > > > In a message dated 2/24/05 9:27:55 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time, > Alto_Q@direcway.com writes: > > --> RV-List message posted by: "John D. Heath" > > Fuel pressure gauges give inaccurate readings because: > 1. The sending unit is poorly grounded if it is screwed into and anodized > oil manifold mounted on the firewall and is not otherwise properly > grounded. > > 2.The sending unit has a small vent that allows the aneroid inside the > case > to be exposed to atmospheric pressure. The indicated pressure is actually > that relative pressure between atmospheric and what the fuel pump > provides. > Clogged vents make for inaccurate indications. > > 3.The fuel pump makes pressure as dictated by a spring. The pump also has > a > vent that can become restricted or mistakenly plugged. > > 4. The sending unit, mounted forward of the firewall is exposed is > exposed > towhat ever pressure is present inside the cowl. 5 psi inside the cowl > relative to5 psi fuel pressure is Zero. > > Find yourself a good direct reading pressure gauge and satisfy yourself > as > towhat the fuel pressure really is. Clean vents Repair grounds and do > what > everelse it takes to secure piece of mind. > > John D. Heath > > ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 09:09:53 AM PST US From: "Chuck Weyant" Subject: Re: RV-List: Carburator problem --> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Weyant" Just wondering, what prop were/are you running? Chuck > As to repair, in the test phase of our RV6 (O-320), I had a series of > "vibration" problems that I cha$ed and cha$ed and cha$ed. (My buddies even > started calling me "vibes".) Most changes seemed to improve things but not > really fix it. When the carburetor made the suspect list (down low) it was > REPLACED. Different strokes for different folks. > > At a minimum I would go with a whole new kit. More than likely I would > either send it off for overhaul or replace it entirely. > ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 09:22:29 AM PST US From: "Moore, Warren" Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy brace --> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren" been through the archives looking for a way to secure my -4's canopy. Like something that would lock the canopy open, but not as complex as the pnematic struts. Does anyone have any photos of the folding table leg brace, or straight rod that they would be willing to share? Thanks, Warren Moore N223WM eJ8+IiARAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQWAAwAOAAAA1QcCABkACQATABgABQAwAQEggAMADgAAANUHAgAZ AAkAEwAeAAUANgEBCYABACEAAABERUNFMzc1MTI0QUMxNzQzODJBOUJFMjg0NDhFOTlDQwBMBwEE gAEAEQAAAFJWNCBjYW5vcHkgYnJhY2UAowUBDYAEAAIAAAACAAIAAQOQBgAIBwAAMAAAAAMAW4AI IAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAFKFAAAnagEAHgBcgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAVIUAAAEA AAAEAAAAOS4wAAsAgIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAaFAAAAAAAAAwAOgAggBgAAAAAAwAAA AAAAAEYAAAAAAYUAAAAAAAALABCACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAADhQAAAAAAAAsAEYAIIAYA AAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAA6FAAAAAAAAAwA3gAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAEIUAAAAAAAAD ADiACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAARhQAAAAAAAAMAPoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABiF AAAAAAAAHgBLgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAANoUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4ATIAIIAYAAAAA AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADeFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeAE2ACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA4hQAA AQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAAgEJEAEAAAB+AQAAegEAALsBAABMWkZ1BEsn0AMACgByY3BnMTI1FjIA+Atg bg4QMDMzTwH3AqQD4wIAY2gKwHOwZXQwIAcTAoB9CoGSdgiQd2sLgGQ0DGBOYwBQCwMLtSBiCeEg RHRoA2B1Z2gUEWVmIArAEOBpdgeRCQBvGRJhZyACEAXAYSB3pGF5FBBvIBEgYwhwRRTAbRZwLTQn BCBjAQBwb3B5LiBMafprFMBzA3ARMBUQFcEUIEphBUB3CGBsZBVhY7ZrFJMXtCAX4AnwLBPA7nUF QBfQBUBhF5EDcAtQjGV4G6IUonBuZQDApnQN4BawdHIbQHMYENggRG8HkQBweQIgFMCvEPAVMB4y HMBoG4BvBCD8b2YUkwIQGaAY4wGgHCClFWBlFdBicgDQZRsQ/wWxHWELcBRwBUADYBmwGSO/FKEW cBl0E9AWQAMQbBjjcxahEPFlPwqiCoQKgFShEPBua3MsJPRXCsA7CXADoE0VgAlwJPROMrAyM1dN JPQR4QAooAAAHgBwAAEAAAARAAAAUlY0IGNhbm9weSBicmFjZQAAAAACAXEAAQAAABYAAAABxRte aJXJKOzRhwwR2YwUAALjCWL2AAADACYAAAAAAAMANgAAAAAACwACAAEAAAADAAlZAwAAAAMA3j+v bwAAQAA5ACCiSSdeG8UBAwDxPwkEAAAeADFAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAAwAaQAAA AAAeADBAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAAwAZQAAAAAADAP0/5AQAAAMAgBD/////AgFH AAEAAAA2AAAAYz1VUzthPSA7cD1UaWRlbGFuZHMgT2lsO2w9TE9DVVRVUy0wNTAyMjUxNzE5MjRa LTEyMjcAAAACAfk/AQAAAFQAAAAAAAAA3KdAyMBCEBq0uQgAKy/hggEAAAAAAAAAL089VElERUxB TkRTIE9JTC9PVT1ORVhVUy9DTj1SRUNJUElFTlRTL0NOPVdBUlJFTiBNT09SRQAeAPg/AQAAAA4A AABNb29yZSwgV2FycmVuAAAAHgA4QAEAAAANAAAAV0FSUkVOIE1PT1JFAAAAAAIB+z8BAAAAVAAA AAAAAADcp0DIwEIQGrS5CAArL+GCAQAAAAAAAAAvTz1USURFTEFORFMgT0lML09VPU5FWFVTL0NO PVJFQ0lQSUVOVFMvQ049V0FSUkVOIE1PT1JFAB4A+j8BAAAADgAAAE1vb3JlLCBXYXJyZW4AAAAe ADlAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAQAAHMJAnvvBdG8UBQAAIMHAcxipeG8UBHgA9AAEA AAABAAAAAAAAAB4AHQ4BAAAAEQAAAFJWNCBjYW5vcHkgYnJhY2UAAAAAHgA1EAEAAABCAAAAPEEx RjJCOTBDNjJGNEQzMTFCQjE4MDA1MDhCOEJGQzFDMTczQTc2QGxvY3V0dXMudGlkZWxhbmRzb2ls LmNvbT4AAAALACkAAAAAAAsAIwAAAAAAAwAGECQumeIDAAcQ9QAAAAMAEBAAAAAAAwAREAAAAAAe AAgQAQAAAGUAAABCRUVOVEhST1VHSFRIRUFSQ0hJVkVTTE9PS0lOR0ZPUkFXQVlUT1NFQ1VSRU1Z LTRTQ0FOT1BZTElLRVNPTUVUSElOR1RIQVRXT1VMRExPQ0tUSEVDQU5PUFlPUEVOLEJVVE5PAAAA AAIBfwABAAAAQgAAADxBMUYyQjkwQzYyRjREMzExQkIxODAwNTA4QjhCRkMxQzE3M0E3NkBsb2N1 dHVzLnRpZGVsYW5kc29pbC5jb20+AAAAu2o ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 09:23:13 AM PST US From: "Ed Holyoke" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question --> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question --> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass. I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if so would you do it again? J.D., I cut the stub off. Then I put the plastic upside down on the table and moved the frame around in it to find the fore and aft location where the center bow curvature matched the plexi the best and marked it. You can't do that with the stub on. When it came time to drill the hole for the latch handle, it was too easy to get it in the right place. I bought extra plastic washers from Van's (the one that goes on the latch tube under the plexi) to put on top under the external handle. I only used one on top so if you want one, I'll mail it to you. The best single piece of advice I can give you is get the slider frame fitted to the roll bar and rear fuselage as well as you possibly can before you mess with the glass. Leave the frame a little narrow at the front bottom corners 'cos the glass will pull it back out again. Good luck with it. It'll probably drive you nuts and you'll eventually whip it. Pax, Ed Holyoke RV-6 Slider complete! ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 09:34:03 AM PST US From: "Neil McLeod" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question --> RV-List message posted by: "Neil McLeod" I trimmed mine to the thickness of the plexi before fitting. A slight protrusion like that didn't make much difference in the fitting and I drilled the hole for it as soon as I had the frame located in the plexi, And it worked out fine. I read all the available instruction such as Cone's and Justice but ended up pretty much using Vans. The other ones are older and may have been the best at the time but I think Van's work best for today's product. Neil McLeod, Finishing Bisbee, AZ -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question --> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass. I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if so would you do it again? ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 11:16:56 AM PST US From: HCRV6@aol.com Subject: Re: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question --> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com In a message dated 2/25/05 9:24:02 AM Pacific Standard Time, bicyclop@pacbell.net writes: << Good luck with it. It'll probably drive you nuts and you'll eventually whip it. >> Amen to that! Do not archive Harry Crosby Pleasanton, California RV-6, flying! ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 12:05:22 PM PST US From: "Paul Besing" Subject: RV-List: PHX Hangar Available --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" I have a hangar available April 1. Located Deer Valley (KDVT). Please email off list for details. Paul Besing RV-6A Sold RV-10 Soon Kitlog Builder's Log Software www.kitlog.com do not archive ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:09:44 PM PST US Subject: RV-List: RV8 empannage and wing project For Sale From: "Textor, Jack" --> RV-List message posted by: "Textor, Jack" Hi all, Thanks for the nice response to my earlier post regarding the sale of my project. To make it a little easier I "threw" together a web site last weekend. For more details on the project go to www.textorfamily.com . Thanks Jack Textor ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 12:53:59 PM PST US From: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net> Subject: RV-List: Slightly off topic simulators --> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net> After hearing about a new head tracking gizmo that adds a whole new dimension of realism, I decided to buy MS FS 2004. I also found an RV-7/7A model for that FS 2004. Even in a simulator, that is a seriously fun plane to fly. Anyway, hear are some things you would be crazy to try in your real RV http://www.thewishzone.com/aviation/Simulator/ The only things I don't like about the simulator is, only the 7A has autopilot, and if you have failures turned on, almost every time you use the flaps, it trips the flap motor breaker, even if you are sitting on the ground not moving. do not archive -- Chris W Gift Giving Made Easy Get the gifts you want & give the gifts they want http://thewishzone.com ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 03:08:04 PM PST US From: Wheeler North Subject: RV-List: egts --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North Ground run at 1500 RPM Ignition Status Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta 1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41 2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19 3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67 4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35 Spread 53 8 85 Here is the data: 3000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1220 1387 +167 2 1284 1421 +137 3 1364 1419 +55 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. Spread 159 34 5000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1207 1358 +151 2 1229 1383 +154 3 1332 1390 +58 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. Spread 127 32 7000' stable at 2400 RPM Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta 1 1137 1353 +216 2 1170 1381 +211 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. 4 1321 1373 +52 Spread 184 28 Doug, It would appear that your throttle setting wasn't at full as evidenced by the big difference between the fore and aft cylinders. But when you lean it the mixing gets a little more even. You might try a full throttle vs part throttle to see if the spread gets narrower at full. The lower delta at lower altitudes is normal, but it may mean your carb is jetted just a little lean since the actual value is fairly small. I'm not sure it needs to be changed as lycoming recommends no leaning above 75% power so there may not be a need. In other words how much time do you spend below 3000 ft below 75% power? Did you say your probes are less than 4" from the flange? These temps aren't bad, but the probe life may be shorter. The joints in the Vetterman exhaust do make probe installation a little constrained. Not sure if you are using that exhaust but your temps parallel mine in the slightly bigger 0-360 cylinders. I would be interested to know what your CHTs did with the left mag vs right LS system while in flight. Theorectically with more heat going out the exhaust on the mag only, the CHTs should decline. All in all, cool data. W ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 03:44:47 PM PST US From: "Dean Pichon" Subject: RE: RV-List: RV4 canopy brace --> RV-List message posted by: "Dean Pichon" A pneumatic strut is pretty simple - and inexpensive, too. Mine has worked well for 3+ years. McMaster-Carr sells struts and all the necessary hardware to anchor the ends. Good Luck, Dean RV-4 Bolton, MA ----Original Message Follows---- From: "Moore, Warren" Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy brace --> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren" been through the archives looking for a way to secure my -4's canopy. Like something that would lock the canopy open, but not as complex as the pnematic struts. Does anyone have any photos of the folding table leg brace, or straight rod that they would be willing to share? Thanks, Warren Moore N223WM eJ8+IiARAQaQCAAEAAAAAAABAAEAAQeQBgAIAAAA5AQAAAAAAADoAAEIgAcAGAAAAElQTS5NaWNy b3NvZnQgTWFpbC5Ob3RlADEIAQWAAwAOAAAA1QcCABkACQATABgABQAwAQEggAMADgAAANUHAgAZ AAkAEwAeAAUANgEBCYABACEAAABERUNFMzc1MTI0QUMxNzQzODJBOUJFMjg0NDhFOTlDQwBMBwEE gAEAEQAAAFJWNCBjYW5vcHkgYnJhY2UAowUBDYAEAAIAAAACAAIAAQOQBgAIBwAAMAAAAAMAW4AI IAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAFKFAAAnagEAHgBcgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAVIUAAAEA AAAEAAAAOS4wAAsAgIAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAAaFAAAAAAAAAwAOgAggBgAAAAAAwAAA AAAAAEYAAAAAAYUAAAAAAAALABCACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAADhQAAAAAAAAsAEYAIIAYA AAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAAA6FAAAAAAAAAwA3gAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAAEIUAAAAAAAAD ADiACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAARhQAAAAAAAAMAPoAIIAYAAAAAAMAAAAAAAABGAAAAABiF AAAAAAAAHgBLgAggBgAAAAAAwAAAAAAAAEYAAAAANoUAAAEAAAABAAAAAAAAAB4ATIAIIAYAAAAA AMAAAAAAAABGAAAAADeFAAABAAAAAQAAAAAAAAAeAE2ACCAGAAAAAADAAAAAAAAARgAAAAA4hQAA AQAAAAEAAAAAAAAAAgEJEAEAAAB+AQAAegEAALsBAABMWkZ1BEsn0AMACgByY3BnMTI1FjIA+Atg bg4QMDMzTwH3AqQD4wIAY2gKwHOwZXQwIAcTAoB9CoGSdgiQd2sLgGQ0DGBOYwBQCwMLtSBiCeEg RHRoA2B1Z2gUEWVmIArAEOBpdgeRCQBvGRJhZyACEAXAYSB3pGF5FBBvIBEgYwhwRRTAbRZwLTQn BCBjAQBwb3B5LiBMafprFMBzA3ARMBUQFcEUIEphBUB3CGBsZBVhY7ZrFJMXtCAX4AnwLBPA7nUF QBfQBUBhF5EDcAtQjGV4G6IUonBuZQDApnQN4BawdHIbQHMYENggRG8HkQBweQIgFMCvEPAVMB4y HMBoG4BvBCD8b2YUkwIQGaAY4wGgHCClFWBlFdBicgDQZRsQ/wWxHWELcBRwBUADYBmwGSO/FKEW cBl0E9AWQAMQbBjjcxahEPFlPwqiCoQKgFShEPBua3MsJPRXCsA7CXADoE0VgAlwJPROMrAyM1dN JPQR4QAooAAAHgBwAAEAAAARAAAAUlY0IGNhbm9weSBicmFjZQAAAAACAXEAAQAAABYAAAABxRte aJXJKOzRhwwR2YwUAALjCWL2AAADACYAAAAAAAMANgAAAAAACwACAAEAAAADAAlZAwAAAAMA3j+v bwAAQAA5ACCiSSdeG8UBAwDxPwkEAAAeADFAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAAwAaQAAA AAAeADBAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAAwAZQAAAAAADAP0/5AQAAAMAgBD/////AgFH AAEAAAA2AAAAYz1VUzthPSA7cD1UaWRlbGFuZHMgT2lsO2w9TE9DVVRVUy0wNTAyMjUxNzE5MjRa LTEyMjcAAAACAfk/AQAAAFQAAAAAAAAA3KdAyMBCEBq0uQgAKy/hggEAAAAAAAAAL089VElERUxB TkRTIE9JTC9PVT1ORVhVUy9DTj1SRUNJUElFTlRTL0NOPVdBUlJFTiBNT09SRQAeAPg/AQAAAA4A AABNb29yZSwgV2FycmVuAAAAHgA4QAEAAAANAAAAV0FSUkVOIE1PT1JFAAAAAAIB+z8BAAAAVAAA AAAAAADcp0DIwEIQGrS5CAArL+GCAQAAAAAAAAAvTz1USURFTEFORFMgT0lML09VPU5FWFVTL0NO PVJFQ0lQSUVOVFMvQ049V0FSUkVOIE1PT1JFAB4A+j8BAAAADgAAAE1vb3JlLCBXYXJyZW4AAAAe ADlAAQAAAA0AAABXQVJSRU4gTU9PUkUAAAAAQAAHMJAnvvBdG8UBQAAIMHAcxipeG8UBHgA9AAEA AAABAAAAAAAAAB4AHQ4BAAAAEQAAAFJWNCBjYW5vcHkgYnJhY2UAAAAAHgA1EAEAAABCAAAAPEEx RjJCOTBDNjJGNEQzMTFCQjE4MDA1MDhCOEJGQzFDMTczQTc2QGxvY3V0dXMudGlkZWxhbmRzb2ls LmNvbT4AAAALACkAAAAAAAsAIwAAAAAAAwAGECQumeIDAAcQ9QAAAAMAEBAAAAAAAwAREAAAAAAe AAgQAQAAAGUAAABCRUVOVEhST1VHSFRIRUFSQ0hJVkVTTE9PS0lOR0ZPUkFXQVlUT1NFQ1VSRU1Z LTRTQ0FOT1BZTElLRVNPTUVUSElOR1RIQVRXT1VMRExPQ0tUSEVDQU5PUFlPUEVOLEJVVE5PAAAA AAIBfwABAAAAQgAAADxBMUYyQjkwQzYyRjREMzExQkIxODAwNTA4QjhCRkMxQzE3M0E3NkBsb2N1 dHVzLnRpZGVsYW5kc29pbC5jb20+AAAAu2o On the road to retirement? Check out MSN Life Events for advice on how to get there! http://lifeevents.msn.com/category.aspx?cid=Retirement ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 07:10:49 PM PST US From: Charlie England Subject: Re: RV-List: RV4 canopy brace --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England >----Original Message Follows---- >From: "Moore, Warren" >To: "'RV List'" >Subject: RV-List: RV4 canopy brace >Date: Fri, 25 Feb 2005 09:19:24 -0800 > >--> RV-List message posted by: "Moore, Warren" > > >been through the archives looking for a way to secure my -4's canopy. Like >something that would lock the canopy open, but not as complex as the >pnematic struts. Does anyone have any photos of the folding table leg >brace, or straight rod that they would be willing to share? > >Thanks, >Warren Moore >N223WM > If you really don't want the strut, I'll try to take a couple of pics of the latching brace on my -4 for you. Send me a reminder off list. Charlie (would rather have a strut.) ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 07:37:24 PM PST US From: "Larry Bowen" Subject: RE: RV-List: egts --> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" Related topic - What are you doing with heat risers to even out the cyl head temps? (The dams in front of the front cylinders) I'm still fiddling with mine. I can get 1 and 3 within a few degrees of eachother. 2 and 4 are another story. 2 is the hottest and 4 is typically 40 degrees less. I'd like to even them up a little more. Anyone have pictures of the shape and size of their heat risers, especially for number 2? Thanks, - Larry Bowen Larry@BowenAero.com http://BowenAero.com > -----Original Message----- > From: Wheeler North [mailto:wnorth@sdccd.edu] > Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 6:07 PM > To: 'rv-list@matronics.com' > Subject: RV-List: egts > > --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North > > Ground run at 1500 RPM > Ignition Status > Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta > 1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41 > 2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19 > 3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67 > 4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35 > Spread 53 8 85 > > Here is the data: > 3000' stable at 2400 RPM > Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta > 1 1220 1387 +167 > 2 1284 1421 +137 > 3 1364 1419 +55 > 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st. > Spread 159 34 > > 5000' stable at 2400 RPM > Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta > 1 1207 1358 +151 > 2 1229 1383 +154 > 3 1332 1390 +58 > 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st. > Spread 127 32 > > 7000' stable at 2400 RPM > Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta > 1 1137 1353 +216 > 2 1170 1381 +211 > 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st. > 4 1321 1373 +52 > Spread 184 28 > > Doug, > > It would appear that your throttle setting wasn't at full as > evidenced by the big difference between the fore and aft > cylinders. But when you lean it the mixing gets a little more even. > > You might try a full throttle vs part throttle to see if the > spread gets narrower at full. > > The lower delta at lower altitudes is normal, but it may mean > your carb is jetted just a little lean since the actual value > is fairly small. I'm not sure it needs to be changed as > lycoming recommends no leaning above 75% power so there may > not be a need. In other words how much time do you spend > below 3000 ft below 75% power? > > Did you say your probes are less than 4" from the flange? > These temps aren't bad, but the probe life may be shorter. > The joints in the Vetterman exhaust do make probe > installation a little constrained. Not sure if you are using > that exhaust but your temps parallel mine in the slightly > bigger 0-360 cylinders. > > I would be interested to know what your CHTs did with the > left mag vs right LS system while in flight. Theorectically > with more heat going out the exhaust on the mag only, the > CHTs should decline. > > All in all, cool data. > > W > > > ========= > Matronics Forums. > ========= > ========= > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 09:11:59 PM PST US From: "David Burton" Subject: RV-List: RV6 DWG 14 --> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" Can anyone give me the details of Revision 10 on I believe DWG 14? It's a fuselage skin clearance notch in the W-607D doubler. I know there is supposed to be one, but I don't have it... Thanks! I'd like to take advantage of this nice weather to paint some parts this weekend.