Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:18 AM - Re: egts (Chuck Jensen)
2. 05:33 AM - cruise performance test data listed (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
3. 05:46 AM - Re: RV6 DWG 14 (Patrick Kelley)
4. 06:01 AM - Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction? (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
5. 06:20 AM - Cruise performance data (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
6. 08:09 AM - Kitlog (Dave Cordner)
7. 09:18 AM - Stainless Screws (BRUCE GRAY)
8. 09:37 AM - Re: Stainless Screws (Mickey Coggins)
9. 10:22 AM - Re: Stainless Screws (Bryan Jones)
10. 10:45 AM - Compression Tester (Vincent Welch)
11. 10:50 AM - Re: Stainless Screws (Douglas A. Fischer)
12. 12:19 PM - Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question (Hal Kempthorne)
13. 12:29 PM - Slider Mounting Question (emrath@comcast.net)
14. 12:47 PM - Re: Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction? (Wayne Glasser)
15. 04:53 PM - Flap shaped switch (Steve Struyk)
16. 05:16 PM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Dave Bristol)
17. 05:38 PM - compass fluid (William Davis)
18. 05:59 PM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Stein Bruch)
19. 06:16 PM - Re: compass fluid (Dan Checkoway)
20. 06:33 PM - Re: Stainless Screws (Charlie Kuss)
21. 06:36 PM - Primer Job looks like Crap... (Matt Johnson)
22. 06:49 PM - Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Kyle Boatright)
23. 06:51 PM - Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Bryan Hooks)
24. 07:33 PM - Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (David Carter)
25. 09:33 PM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Jim Jewell)
26. 09:47 PM - Re: compass fluid (Jim Oke)
27. 10:27 PM - nose wheel pant brackets. (Jim Jewell)
28. 11:27 PM - Re: nose wheel pant brackets. (GMC)
Message 1
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Chuck Jensen" <cjensen@dts9000.com>
Larry,
Are you looking for consistency between the cylinder's EGT for absolute temps or
for the delta temps. I assume you're looking for uniform deltas as they are
the only ones of probative value. The absolutes are too dependent on installation
locations and other factors that are unrelated to engine/ignition performance.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Larry Bowen
Subject: RE: RV-List: egts
--> RV-List message posted by: "Larry Bowen" <Larry@BowenAero.com>
Related topic -
What are you doing with heat risers to even out the cyl head temps? (The
dams in front of the front cylinders) I'm still fiddling with mine. I can
get 1 and 3 within a few degrees of eachother. 2 and 4 are another story.
2 is the hottest and 4 is typically 40 degrees less. I'd like to even them
up a little more. Anyone have pictures of the shape and size of their heat
risers, especially for number 2?
Thanks,
-
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wheeler North [mailto:wnorth@sdccd.edu]
> Sent: Friday, February 25, 2005 6:07 PM
> To: 'rv-list@matronics.com'
> Subject: RV-List: egts
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Wheeler North <wnorth@sdccd.edu>
>
> Ground run at 1500 RPM
> Ignition Status
> Cyl Both on Left L-delta Right R-delta
> 1 1182 1320 +138 1223 +41
> 2 1172 1320 +148 1191 +19
> 3 1193 1319 +126 1260 +67
> 4 1140 1312 +172 1175 +35
> Spread 53 8 85
>
> Here is the data:
> 3000' stable at 2400 RPM
> Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
> 1 1220 1387 +167
> 2 1284 1421 +137
> 3 1364 1419 +55
> 4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st.
> Spread 159 34
>
> 5000' stable at 2400 RPM
> Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
> 1 1207 1358 +151
> 2 1229 1383 +154
> 3 1332 1390 +58
> 4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st.
> Spread 127 32
>
> 7000' stable at 2400 RPM
> Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
> 1 1137 1353 +216
> 2 1170 1381 +211
> 3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st.
> 4 1321 1373 +52
> Spread 184 28
>
> Doug,
>
> It would appear that your throttle setting wasn't at full as
> evidenced by the big difference between the fore and aft
> cylinders. But when you lean it the mixing gets a little more even.
>
> You might try a full throttle vs part throttle to see if the
> spread gets narrower at full.
>
> The lower delta at lower altitudes is normal, but it may mean
> your carb is jetted just a little lean since the actual value
> is fairly small. I'm not sure it needs to be changed as
> lycoming recommends no leaning above 75% power so there may
> not be a need. In other words how much time do you spend
> below 3000 ft below 75% power?
>
> Did you say your probes are less than 4" from the flange?
> These temps aren't bad, but the probe life may be shorter.
> The joints in the Vetterman exhaust do make probe
> installation a little constrained. Not sure if you are using
> that exhaust but your temps parallel mine in the slightly
> bigger 0-360 cylinders.
>
> I would be interested to know what your CHTs did with the
> left mag vs right LS system while in flight. Theorectically
> with more heat going out the exhaust on the mag only, the
> CHTs should decline.
>
> All in all, cool data.
>
> W
>
>
> =========
> Matronics Forums.
> =========
> =========
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | cruise performance test data listed |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
Has anyone else that is flying with a CS propeller noticed that at a fixed
altitude with full throttle the airspeed is almost constant even though the
RPM is changed from 2700 RPM to 2200 RPM? The only significant change is the
fuel flow.
I just finished updating the performance information on my _www.lessdrag.com_
(http://www.lessdrag.com) website on the "Lycoming 360 Propeller" page.
For the Hartzell 2 blade propeller, the full throttle airspeed was 205 mph
tias at 2,500' at 2500 RPM and up. The full throttle airspeeds are not listed
for 2400 and 2300 RPM, but they were 202 at 2400 RPM and 199 at 2300 RPM.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Message 3
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Patrick Kelley" <webmaster@flion.com>
Go ahead and paint. The notch is optional and you won't know if you need it
until you fit the wings to the fuselage. In my case, I didn't need it. If
you do make this notch, it's just above the W-697B and the dimension shown
on the plan is 9/16" deep from the inboard edge. The vertical dimension is
not given, but the radius at the inside corner should be 1/16".
Patrick Kelley - RV-6A - fuselage interior under construction
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of David Burton
Subject: RV-List: RV6 DWG 14
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Burton" <dburton@nwlink.com>
Can anyone give me the details of Revision 10 on I believe DWG 14? It's a
fuselage skin clearance notch in the W-607D doubler. I know there is
supposed to be one, but I don't have it...
Thanks! I'd like to take advantage of this nice weather to paint some parts
this weekend.
--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction? |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
Someone mentioned on the list that the new Hartzell blended airfoil
propeller doesn't have a mid range RPM restriction on the Lycoming 360 with 180
hp.
I thought I would add to the list of available propellers without the mid
range RPM restriction.
The aluminum 2 blade MT Propeller, MTV-15-B/183-402, does not have a mid
range RPM restriction.
The 3 blade MT Propeller, MTV-12-B/183-59b, does not have a mid range RPM
restriction.
However, the -59 blades that Van has been selling does have a mid range RPM
restriction.
MT Propeller has said that these two propeller do not have a RPM restriction
on any Lycoming 360 engine.
I've confirmed this for the 3 blade propeller with MT Propeller for a
Lycoming 360 that dyno'd at 220 hp.
However, if you have a super pumped up 360, you'd better give MT Propeller a
call first.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Message 5
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| Subject: | Cruise performance data |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
Just thought I would mention, before the flames start, that the 3 blade MT
propeller performed about the same as the Hartzell 2 blade propeller at 7,500'
and above.
This seems to be in conflict with the test data provided by Van's Aircraft
in the RVator.
Van's Aircraft used a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller.
I used a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59d propeller. MT Propeller modified the
blades for better performance. That is why the added little letter "d" appears
in the propeller designation.
MT Propeller now has a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59b propeller. This propeller
is predicted to have 3 or 4 knots better performance than the -59d blades.
The MTV-12-B/183-59b propeller is the only 3 blade propeller from MT
Propeller that does NOT have a mid range RPM restriction on the Lycoming 360 engine
without crankshaft counterweights.
The MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller DOES have a mid range RPM restriction from
2050 to 2300 RPM on the Lycoming 360 engine without crankshaft dampeners.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Message 6
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Cordner" <davcor@comcast.net>
Paul,
I read a posting on the yahoo board last night from a new builder back east
who apparently was able to talk you into letting him have
access to a beta copy of 2.0
ok, you get it I'm jealous, and could rationalize to you that my 25 years as
a systems engineer for various software and now fibre channel communications
company would also qualify me as a valid tester.... don't want to go there
(whine that is)
How about posting a bullet list of features (deltas to the previous
releases)
I expect that everyone involved in the new Kitlog have real day jobs and are
finding it difficult to finish up the release. I can really relate, my plane
project (7A) is getting dusty, have to finish the right wing before the fuse
kit arrives in early April. I have to go to San Jose all next week, and yet
I've been approached by a friend who wants me to moonlight for him to
develop network management behavior models. It's fun work ($$$ too) but I
just don't have time
so how bout posting a new page or slide or two to the new 2.0 teaser web?
Dave Cordner
Arvada, CO
Message 7
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| Subject: | Stainless Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
I just ordered AN507-6R6 screws for the removable wing tip installation and
now want to go the stainless screw route. What is the AN/MS # for the
equivalent to the AN507-6R6?
Thanks to how ever can reply first so I can cancel the other order.
Bruce Gray
RV8 Wings
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
You may want to consider the stainless steel torx-type screws
available from micro fasteners. Torx is very nice. Just
type micro fasteners torx in Google.
Mickey
BRUCE GRAY wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
>
> I just ordered AN507-6R6 screws for the removable wing tip installation and
> now want to go the stainless screw route. What is the AN/MS # for the
> equivalent to the AN507-6R6?
> Thanks to how ever can reply first so I can cancel the other order.
> Bruce Gray
> RV8 Wings
>
>
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I have quite a few stainless hex socket flat heads on mine. Works nice too.
Bryan -8
Houston
>You may want to consider the stainless steel torx-type screws
>available from micro fasteners. Torx is very nice. Just
>type micro fasteners torx in Google.
>
>Mickey
>
>BRUCE GRAY wrote:
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
> >
> > I just ordered AN507-6R6 screws for the removable wing tip installation
>and
> > now want to go the stainless screw route. What is the AN/MS # for the
> > equivalent to the AN507-6R6?
> > Thanks to how ever can reply first so I can cancel the other order.
> > Bruce Gray
> > RV8 Wings
> >
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Compression Tester |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Vincent Welch" <welchvincent@hotmail.com>
Just a quick question. Is the cylinder compression tester with the master
orifice worth the extra $30? I understand that the sales blurb says that it
compensates for differences in local barametric pressure and temperature BUT
is that compensation really such a big deal? Which units have you guys
purchased?
Vince
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Douglas A. Fischer" <dfischer@iserv.net>
Here's the page you want:
http://www.microfasteners.com/catalog/products/SSCFCMXS.cfm
Doug Fischer
-9A 90706 Wings
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
Subject: RV-List: Stainless Screws
> --> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
>
> I just ordered AN507-6R6 screws for the removable wing tip installation
and
> now want to go the stainless screw route. What is the AN/MS # for the
> equivalent to the AN507-6R6?
> Thanks to how ever can reply first so I can cancel the other order.
> Bruce Gray
> RV8 Wings
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hal Kempthorne <hal_kempthorne@sbcglobal.net>
YES. Cut off the stub
Don't apply plastic till you have to. Just before flight etc to reduce possibility
of scratching and to be sure slider especially is working right.
Once plastic work is started, don't stop as canopy can change shape slightly if
not anchored.
hal
RV6a 180 hrs.
J D Newsum <jnewsum1@msn.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum"
I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been studying
all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.). In
the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting off
the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the
handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the plexiglass.
I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique and if
so would you do it again?
Message 13
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| Subject: | Slider Mounting Question |
0.00 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: emrath@comcast.net
J.D.,
I followed Van's new instructions which came with my finishing kit a couple years
ago. I did not cut the stub fo tube off. I just taped on some 1/4" spacers
to the top bar and put the frame in the unside down canopy. I used a large box
with an oval hole cut in it to hold the upside down canopy. Worked great. I'd
say make the cut slightly forward of what a perfect fit would tell you as my
canopy tail has a bit of 'turnup' at the end past the frame and I had to grind
that down with a belt sander to be able to get my rear canopy skirts to lay
flat. YMMV.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 09:23:13 AM PST US
From: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
Subject: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" <bicyclop@pacbell.net>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum
Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
--> RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" <jnewsum1@msn.com>
I'm starting the canopy installation phase on a RV6 and have been
studying
all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.).
In
the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting
off
the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the
handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the
plexiglass.
I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique
and if
so would you do it again?
J.D.,
I cut the stub off. Then I put the plastic upside down on the table and
moved the frame around in it to find the fore and aft location where the
center bow curvature matched the plexi the best and marked it. You can't
do that with the stub on. When it came time to drill the hole for the
latch handle, it was too easy to get it in the right place. I bought
extra plastic washers from Van's (the one that goes on the latch tube
under the plexi) to put on top under the external handle. I only used
one on top so if you want one, I'll mail it to you.
The best single piece of advice I can give you is get the slider frame
fitted to the roll bar and rear fuselage as well as you possibly can
before you mess with the glass. Leave the frame a little narrow at the
front bottom corners 'cos the glass will pull it back out again.
Good luck with it. It'll probably drive you nuts and you'll eventually
whip it.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 Slider complete!
J.D.,
I followed Van's new instructions which came with my finishing kit a couple years
ago. I did not cut the stub fo tubeoff. I just taped onsome 1/4" spacers to
the top bar andput the frame in the unside down canopy. I used a large boxwith
an oval hole cut in it to hold the upsidedown canopy. Worked great. I'd say
make the cut slightly forward of what a perfect fit would tell you as my canopy
tail has a bit of 'turnup' at the end past the frame and I had to grind that
down with a belt sander to be able to get my rear canopy skirts to lay flat.
YMMV.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time:
09:23:13 AM PST US
From:
"Ed Holyoke" bicyclop@pacbell.net
Subject:
RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
-- RV-List message posted by: "Ed Holyoke" bicyclop@pacbell.net
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of J D Newsum
Subject: RV-List: RV 6, 7, 9 Slider Canopy Question
-- RV-List message posted by: "J D Newsum" jnewsum1@msn.com
I'm starting the canopy installation phase on
a RV6 and have been
studying
all the various notes and hints (RVator, Jim Cone, Frank Justice etc.).
In
the article that Jim Cone wrote on this subject he recommended cutting
off
the tube that sticks above the sliding canopy frame (the stub where the
handle goes thru) as it is in the way during the fitting of the
plexiglass.
I was wondering how many slider installations had used this technique
and if
so would you do it again?
J.D.,
I cut
the stub off. Then I put the plastic upside down on the table and
moved the frame around in it to find the fore and aft location where the
center bow curvature matched the plexi the best and marked it. You can't
do that with the stub on. When it came time to drill the hole for the
latch handle, it was too easy to get it in the right place. I bought
extra plastic washers from Van's (the one that goes on the latch tube
under the plexi) to put on top under the external handle. I only used
one on top so if you want one, I'll mail it to you.
The best single piece of advice I can give you is get the slider frame
fitted to the roll bar and rear fu
selage as well as you possibly can
before you mess with the glass. Leave the frame a little narrow at the
front bottom corners 'cos the glass will pull it back out again.
Good luck with it. It'll probably drive you nuts and you'll eventually
whip it.
Pax,
Ed Holyoke
RV-6 Slider complete!
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Wayne Glasser" <ku-tec@bigpond.net.au>
Hi Jim
Are you saying that the 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59b does not have rpm
restrictions, or areas of non recommended continuous operation, when used
with a non counterweighted '360 motor?
Regds
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: <LeastDrag93066@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction?
> --> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
> Hi All,
>
> Someone mentioned on the list that the new Hartzell blended airfoil
> propeller doesn't have a mid range RPM restriction on the Lycoming 360
> with 180 hp.
> I thought I would add to the list of available propellers without the mid
> range RPM restriction.
>
> The aluminum 2 blade MT Propeller, MTV-15-B/183-402, does not have a mid
> range RPM restriction.
>
> The 3 blade MT Propeller, MTV-12-B/183-59b, does not have a mid range RPM
> restriction.
> However, the -59 blades that Van has been selling does have a mid range
> RPM
> restriction.
>
> MT Propeller has said that these two propeller do not have a RPM
> restriction
> on any Lycoming 360 engine.
> I've confirmed this for the 3 blade propeller with MT Propeller for a
> Lycoming 360 that dyno'd at 220 hp.
> However, if you have a super pumped up 360, you'd better give MT Propeller
> a
> call first.
>
> Regards,
> Jim Ayers
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Anybody know where to get a flap switch shaped like a flap? I've seen them on finished
airplanes, but not in any catalogs on any mention of them in the archives.
Thanks in advance
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S (Res.)
St. Charles, MO
Finish
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
I'm sure that Ce$$na would sell you one!
Dave
do not archive
Steve Struyk wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
>
>Anybody know where to get a flap switch shaped like a flap? I've seen them on
finished airplanes, but not in any catalogs on any mention of them in the archives.
>
>Thanks in advance
>
>Steve Struyk
>RV-8, N842S (Res.)
>St. Charles, MO
>Finish
>
>
>
>
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Listers
Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe something
just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass card.
I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of fluid
Bill
Message 18
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| Subject: | Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Steve,
I actually purchased a couple of these 2nd hand from a local salvage yard
(most salvage yards have boxes of the things) and actually installed it in
my RV-6.
That being said, it was only there for about 15 minutes. Why did I remove
it you ask; well...um....frankly, it looked stupid in my plane. So, I sold
them on Ebay, and installed a regular toggle (which I put a White boot on)
and use that. Now, it matches the rest of my switches, and doesn't fludge
of the panel with a rather obnoxious protrusion....and....I don't desire any
Cessna looking things on my beautiful RV panel :)
Just my 2 cents and my opinion as usual.
Cheers,
Stein Bruch
RV6's, Minneapolis
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Struyk
Subject: RV-List: Flap shaped switch
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
Anybody know where to get a flap switch shaped like a flap? I've seen them
on finished airplanes, but not in any catalogs on any mention of them in the
archives.
Thanks in advance
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S (Res.)
St. Charles, MO
Finish
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: compass fluid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Mineral spirits. Home Depot special, aviation aisle. Odorless variety
preferred -- unless you want to KNOW in more ways than one when it's
leaking.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (386 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Subject: RV-List: compass fluid
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
>
> Listers
>
> Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe
something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass
card.
>
> I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of
fluid
>
> Bill
>
>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Stainless Screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Bruce
AN509C-6R6
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "BRUCE GRAY" <brucerv84us@hotmail.com>
>
>I just ordered AN507-6R6 screws for the removable wing tip installation and
>now want to go the stainless screw route. What is the AN/MS # for the
>equivalent to the AN507-6R6?
>Thanks to how ever can reply first so I can cancel the other order.
>Bruce Gray
>RV8 Wings
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Primer Job looks like Crap... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with Sherwin Williams
P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up
and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However, I am interested
in if I was doing something wrong or if this
primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am not new
to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the
reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the settings on
each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically,
the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I know the
primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which
makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that on other
planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would
help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks.
- Matt
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Kyle Boatright" <kboatright1@comcast.net>
I had similar problems when a cork seal around the needle assembly got dry
on my primer gun. Apparently, the dry seal was leaking. It took me several
frustrating sessions to find the problem. After that, a little vaseline or
chap-stick on the seal cured the problem.
KB
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message from
valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with Sherwin
> Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up
> and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However, I
> am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this
> primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am
> not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the
> reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the
> settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically,
> the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I
> know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which
> makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that on
> other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would
> help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks.
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
When you go down to NAPA, you might ask for their 8846 and 8848 (primer
and reducer). It's a 2-part, self etching epoxy primer, and does a
fantastic job for me. I also keep a few cans of the spray version on
hand as well for small jobs, but it is not as resistant to scratches,
etc.
In the past, I had a batch (on the inside of the rudder skin) that came
out terrible as well. Turned out, I didn't shake up the primer can and
get it mixed well enough before mixing it in with the reducer. But it
was the same deal as yours, in that no one will ever see it.
With regards to the Sherwin Williams, I haven't used it, but have heard
of several on the list who were really happy with it as well. Wish I
could offer a solution for you there.
Bryan Hooks
RV-7A slow-build
Knoxville, TN
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
Subject: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with
Sherwin Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up
and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However,
I am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this
primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am
not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the
reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the
settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically,
the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I
know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which
makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that
on other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would
help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks.
- Matt
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
When I've had problems with thick splotchy paint (primer), the solution was
to thin it a lot more so it went on thin and took 2-3 passes to get a 0.7
mil thickness (could see the Pilot pen marks thru the primer).
Caveat: I use a DeVilbiss HVLP at about 10 psi at the heel of the gun.
Also, when I used "circular pattern" (circle or cone of paint) instead of
"fan" (vertical line) - circular put on too much material.
Once I got the basic "dryness" air adjustment set, I never changed it - just
thinned enough each batch.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Subject: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message from
valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with Sherwin
Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up
> and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However, I
am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this
> primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am
not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the
> reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the
settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically,
> the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I
know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which
> makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that on
other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would
> help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks.
>
> - Matt
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Hi Steve,
I mounted the flap switch on the far right end of all the switches on the
sub switch panel. This placed the flap switch next to the carb heat and
throttle. A natural reach and distance with the thumb.
To Reduce the chance of hitting the wrong switch I used a short length of
3/4' X 3/4" by 2' piece of .062 angle.
I drilled a switch sized hole and attached it to the sub panel with the
vertical flange to the left side separating the flap switch from the rest of
the switches. I trimmed two angles off the flange corners (ends) 3/4' long
toward the sub panel so that the flange forms a fence that has an edge that
is straight for about 1/2" at the centre with the two cut away angles
representing flap position angles.
The angle is riveted in place.
The result is effective from a tactile point of view, works well as a switch
separator and looks pretty good.to me.
It took far less than one hour to finish.
As suggested, a coloured boot on the flap toggle would add to the visual and
tactile identity as well.
If the description is poorly worded I can send a photo or two,
Jim in Kelowna
----- Original Message -----
From: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap shaped switch
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
>
> Hi Steve,
>
> I actually purchased a couple of these 2nd hand from a local salvage yard
> (most salvage yards have boxes of the things) and actually installed it in
> my RV-6.
>
> That being said, it was only there for about 15 minutes. Why did I remove
> it you ask; well...um....frankly, it looked stupid in my plane. So, I
> sold
> them on Ebay, and installed a regular toggle (which I put a White boot on)
> and use that. Now, it matches the rest of my switches, and doesn't fludge
> of the panel with a rather obnoxious protrusion....and....I don't desire
> any
> Cessna looking things on my beautiful RV panel :)
>
> Just my 2 cents and my opinion as usual.
>
> Cheers,
> Stein Bruch
> RV6's, Minneapolis
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Steve Struyk
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Flap shaped switch
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com>
>
> Anybody know where to get a flap switch shaped like a flap? I've seen them
> on finished airplanes, but not in any catalogs on any mention of them in
> the
> archives.
>
> Thanks in advance
>
> Steve Struyk
> RV-8, N842S (Res.)
> St. Charles, MO
> Finish
>
>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: compass fluid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Bill;
I used hardware store Varsol when rebuilding an Airpath compass. Works fine.
Fill a coffee can or similar container, immerse the compass and keep turning
it until the air bubbles all escape.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, C-GKGZ
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Subject: RV-List: compass fluid
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
>
> Listers
>
> Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe
> something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass
> card.
>
> I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of
> fluid
>
> Bill
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | nose wheel pant brackets. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
I have four aluminium nose wheel brackets (two pairs) in my hand. They are
marked U-813D-R and L and U-813C-R and L.
Their angles are very slightly different and the holes are placed
differently. The 813-C holes are at the centre and the 813-D holes are
offset.
I do not have a drawing or instructions and I would like to know which of
the two pairs mount onto the main axel bolt.
Thanks,
Jim in Kelowna
Message 28
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| Subject: | nose wheel pant brackets. |
--> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Hi Jim
813-C mounts horizontally on axle bolt and 813-D near vertical on gear leg,
sharp corner on both brackets is at the down and forward position. (6A
drawing C1)
George in Langley
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
Subject: RV-List: nose wheel pant brackets.
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
I have four aluminium nose wheel brackets (two pairs) in my hand. They are
marked U-813D-R and L and U-813C-R and L.
Their angles are very slightly different and the holes are placed
differently. The 813-C holes are at the centre and the 813-D holes are
offset.
I do not have a drawing or instructions and I would like to know which of
the two pairs mount onto the main axel bolt.
Thanks,
Jim in Kelowna
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