Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:05 AM - Re: nose wheel pant brackets. (Jim Jewell)
2. 02:09 AM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Bryan Jones)
3. 02:39 AM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Mickey Coggins)
4. 04:39 AM - Re: Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction? (Kevin Horton)
5. 04:49 AM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Richard McBride)
6. 05:28 AM - Re: cruise performance test data listed (Kevin Horton)
7. 05:56 AM - Re: compass fluid (cgalley)
8. 06:22 AM - lost tailwheel steering (Dan Checkoway)
9. 06:34 AM - Re: compass fluid (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
10. 06:51 AM - Re: nose wheel pant brackets. (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 06:54 AM - Re: nose wheel pant brackets. (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
12. 06:57 AM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Sam Buchanan)
13. 07:00 AM - Re: lost tailwheel steering (cgalley)
14. 07:04 AM - Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (Bob Collins)
15. 07:04 AM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Sam Buchanan)
16. 08:16 AM - Re: [VAF Mailing List] lost tailwheel steering (Dan Checkoway)
17. 08:29 AM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Jeff Dowling)
18. 08:50 AM - Henderson NC area info needed (Charles Heathco)
19. 09:34 AM - Re: compass fluid (Charles Heathco)
20. 10:43 AM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Terry Watson)
21. 10:43 AM - Re: compass fluid (cgalley)
22. 10:50 AM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Sam Buchanan)
23. 01:02 PM - Re: compass fluid (mailindex@juno.com)
24. 02:19 PM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Bryan Jones)
25. 02:21 PM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Bryan Jones)
26. 02:32 PM - Re: Flap shaped switch (Scott Jackson)
27. 04:02 PM - Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message from valid local sender) (Randy Lervold)
28. 04:05 PM - KISM - Kissimmee Gateway Info (Don Kugler)
29. 04:19 PM - Re: Compass Fluid (emrath@comcast.net)
30. 05:15 PM - Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (Matt Johnson)
31. 06:37 PM - fixed pitch to CS conversion (luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky))
32. 06:51 PM - Re: fixed pitch to CS conversion (John Furey)
33. 07:46 PM - Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not processed: me... (Fiveonepw@aol.com)
34. 08:28 PM - Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (Knicholas2@aol.com)
35. 08:59 PM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (David Carter)
36. 09:29 PM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (linn walters)
37. 09:37 PM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (HCRV6@aol.com)
38. 09:42 PM - Cracked dimples. (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: nose wheel pant brackets. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
Thanks a bunch George,
Jim do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "GMC" <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
Subject: RE: RV-List: nose wheel pant brackets.
> --> RV-List message posted by: GMC <gmcnutt@shaw.ca>
>
> Hi Jim
>
> 813-C mounts horizontally on axle bolt and 813-D near vertical on gear
> leg,
> sharp corner on both brackets is at the down and forward position. (6A
> drawing C1)
>
> George in Langley
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Jewell
> To: rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: nose wheel pant brackets.
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Jewell" <jjewell@telus.net>
>
>
> I have four aluminium nose wheel brackets (two pairs) in my hand. They are
> marked U-813D-R and L and U-813C-R and L.
> Their angles are very slightly different and the holes are placed
> differently. The 813-C holes are at the centre and the 813-D holes are
> offset.
> I do not have a drawing or instructions and I would like to know which of
> the two pairs mount onto the main axel bolt.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim in Kelowna
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>That being said, it was only there for about 15 minutes. Why did I remove
>it you ask; well...um....frankly, it looked stupid in my plane. So, I sold
>them on Ebay, and installed a regular toggle (which I put a White boot on)
>and use that. Now, it matches the rest of my switches, and doesn't fludge
>of the panel with a rather obnoxious protrusion....and....I don't desire
>any
>Cessna looking things on my beautiful RV panel :)
I'm usually not one to try and talk someone out of building their custom
plane custom, but I've got to go along with the above sentements. For
goodness sake, you're building a tandem, conventional gear RV!! Put the
flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much greater
if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or look
away!
When I'm landing, I usually drop flaps on short final. They start coming up
right after I get the mains down. I get the aero braking action on final to
touchdown, then when I start retracting them on rollout, I get the wheels
planted very firmly and remaining lift reduced. My hands never come off the
flight controls. Don't try that with your panel mounted flap switch.
another 2 cents
Bryan -8 716 hrs
Houston
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
> ... Put the
> flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much greater
> if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or look
> away!
> ...
Bryan,
Did you ever have trouble accidentally bumping the flaps while
in cruise? Someone mentioned this as a risk when the flap
switch is on the stick. I'm putting in a flaps on/off switch
on my panel, right next to the trim on/off switch. Probably
overkill...
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Lycoming 360 mid range RPM restriction? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
>Hi All,
>
>Someone mentioned on the list that the new Hartzell blended airfoil
>propeller doesn't have a mid range RPM restriction on the Lycoming
>360 with 180 hp.
>I thought I would add to the list of available propellers without the mid
>range RPM restriction.
>
>The aluminum 2 blade MT Propeller, MTV-15-B/183-402, does not have a mid
>range RPM restriction.
>
>The 3 blade MT Propeller, MTV-12-B/183-59b, does not have a mid range RPM
>restriction.
>However, the -59 blades that Van has been selling does have a mid range RPM
>restriction.
>
>MT Propeller has said that these two propeller do not have a RPM restriction
>on any Lycoming 360 engine.
>I've confirmed this for the 3 blade propeller with MT Propeller for a
>Lycoming 360 that dyno'd at 220 hp.
>However, if you have a super pumped up 360, you'd better give MT Propeller a
>call first.
>
>Regards,
>Jim Ayers
>
It sure would be nice if MT would publish this info on the prop's
Type Certificate Data Sheet like other prop manufacturers do. This
important info shouldn't be coming third or fourth hand - it should
come straight from the engineers at MT.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8/
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
Seal-Send-Time: Sun, 27 Feb 2005 07:46:11 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "Richard McBride" <rickrv8@msn.com>
Steve,
Gulf Coast Avionics carries this switch. According to their catalog the switch
handle is 1 inch long. The switch is DPDT, center off, momentary down. They're
very proud of this jewel. It sells for $89.95.
Rick McBride
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Struyk<mailto:rv8striker@hotmail.com>
To: rv-list@matronics.com<mailto:rv-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2005 7:51 PM
Subject: RV-List: Flap shaped switch
--> RV-List message posted by: "Steve Struyk" <rv8striker@hotmail.com<mailto:rv8striker@hotmail.com>>
Anybody know where to get a flap switch shaped like a flap? I've seen them on
finished airplanes, but not in any catalogs on any mention of them in the archives.
Thanks in advance
Steve Struyk
RV-8, N842S (Res.)
St. Charles, MO
Finish
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: cruise performance test data listed |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
>Hi All,
>
>Has anyone else that is flying with a CS propeller noticed that at a fixed
>altitude with full throttle the airspeed is almost constant even though the
>RPM is changed from 2700 RPM to 2200 RPM? The only significant change is the
>fuel flow.
>
>I just finished updating the performance information on my _www.lessdrag.com_
>(http://www.lessdrag.com) website on the "Lycoming 360 Propeller" page.
>
>For the Hartzell 2 blade propeller, the full throttle airspeed was 205 mph
>tias at 2,500' at 2500 RPM and up. The full throttle airspeeds are
>not listed
>for 2400 and 2300 RPM, but they were 202 at 2400 RPM and 199 at 2300 RPM.
>
Jim - questions/comments:
I looked at my O-360A power spreadsheet, and it looks like the power
at 2300 rpm would be about 91% of the power at 2700 rpm. So,
assuming prop efficiency is constant, you would expect the speed at
2300 rpm to be about 97% of the speed at 2700 rpm. Your data,
averaged over all conditions from 5,000 ft to 12,500 feet for each
prop shows:
prop speed at 2300 rpm as percentage of speed at 2700 rpm
Hartzell 2 blade - 99.0%
MT 3 blade - 98.5%
MT 2 blade - 96.9%
MT Alum 2 blade - 100.4%
Average - 98.7%
But, the expected speed variation with the cube root of power assumes
that the prop efficiency remains constant. I have seen several
comments from people who race with our Hartzell props that they get
just as much speed at 2600 rpm as they do at 2700 rpm, which seems to
indicate that the prop efficiency may be falling off quite a bit as
the rpm increases. The prop efficiency data I have from Hartzell
does show a gradual decrease in prop efficiency with rpm. I ran the
numbers for 5000 ft, and if we take the decrease in prop efficiency
into account, we would expect the speed at 2300 rpm to be about 99%
of the speed at 2700 rpm, which is bang on your average for the
Hartzell.
Is your data repeatable over several flights? Or, is it possible
that you have "noisy" data?
Your results seem to be based on taking IAS, and converting to TAS.
Have you done any flight testing to calibrate your airspeeds? The
ASI instrument error and static source position error may both vary a
bit with speed.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: compass fluid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Clear oil lantern fuel is the same stuff. Not the Colman fuel but for wick
type lanterns.
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Subject: RV-List: compass fluid
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
>
> Listers
>
> Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe
> something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass
> card.
>
> I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of
> fluid
>
> Bill
>
>
>
Message 8
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<SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | lost tailwheel steering |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
Yesterday I lost tailwheel steering on my RV-7. I had taxied, taken off,
landed and taxied again, and it was business as usual...but when I went to
leave, the rudder wasn't locking with the tailwheel. The winds were light,
so this was no big deal, just took off and headed home. I had differential
braking, obviously, so it was fine, but it was more than mildly annoying not
having the usual steering authority and stability.
Got back to the hangar and disassembled the tailwheel. I found that the
problem was a very slight deformation of the spring-loaded key that inserts
into the pivot shaft. The key was jamming inside the shaft. When I removed
the tailwheel the key didn't spring back out like normal, and I had to tap
it out from the opening on the front of the shaft.
After cleaning it up, I used digital calipers to measure the height of the
key. It was .2495" tall all the way to the back end (rounded end) where it
was .2515" tall. Here's a photo:
http://images.rvproject.com/images/2005/20050226_tailwheel_key.jpg
The photo is a little fuzzy, but the arrows point to the little "build-ups"
on the corners. That .002" was enough such that as the tailwheel shaft
rotated and the key was forced all the way in, it would jam and not spring
out...keeping the tailwheel from re-engaging with the control horn once it
was centered again.
I just filed a tiny bit off those little "built up" corners and the thing is
smooth as silk again. I will most likely order a spare key to carry in my
spare parts bag, just in case.
Anyway, add this to your inspection list if it's not already on there. Make
sure the key can slide in and out nice and smoothly. Any resistance should
be addressed immediately imho. Loss of tailwheel steering at the wrong time
could be unpleasant!
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (386 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: compass fluid |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Bill,
I just got some compass fluid from Aircraft Spruce and didn't have to pay
high shipping. It came UPS Ground.
Be careful what you put in your compass. I used ultra pure lamp oil from
Home Depot, etc. It worked just fine, but later I found that it gelled to a
semi-solid at about 32 degrees F. There were ice crystals throughout the
compass! No harm done, but a little annoying. That's why I now recommend the
real stuff.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying since last July)
In a message dated 2/26/05 8:39:52 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
rvpilot@access4less.net writes:
Listers
Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe
something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass card.
I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of fluid
Bill
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: nose wheel pant brackets. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/27/05 1:29:22 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
jjewell@telus.net writes:
I have four aluminium nose wheel brackets (two pairs) in my hand. They are
marked U-813D-R and L and U-813C-R and L.
Their angles are very slightly different and the holes are placed
differently. The 813-C holes are at the centre and the 813-D holes are
offset.
I do not have a drawing or instructions and I would like to know which of
the two pairs mount onto the main axel bolt.
Thanks,
Jim in Kelowna
Jim,
The 813-D pieces go on the front of the fork with the large center hole
toward the front of the plane. The 3/8 inch allen bolt goes through this hole
for the tow-bar. The narrower sides go to the front.
The 813-C pieces have the axle bolt through the large center hole and the
narrower sides go to the bottom.
You need drawing DWG C1.
Hope this helps,
do not archive
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying since July)
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: nose wheel pant brackets. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Sorry, my reply was not needed. I should have looked for the other replies
first.
Do not archive
Dan
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Bryan Jones wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
> I'm usually not one to try and talk someone out of building their custom
> plane custom, but I've got to go along with the above sentements. For
> goodness sake, you're building a tandem, conventional gear RV!! Put the
> flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much greater
> if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or look
> away!
>
> When I'm landing, I usually drop flaps on short final. They start coming up
> right after I get the mains down. I get the aero braking action on final to
> touchdown, then when I start retracting them on rollout, I get the wheels
> planted very firmly and remaining lift reduced. My hands never come off the
> flight controls. Don't try that with your panel mounted flap switch.
The flap switch on my RV-6 is mounted on the panel just above the
throttle. It is a very comfortable reach with the index finger to manage
the switch while my hand is on the throttle; there is no problem with
bumping the switch unintentionally.
My hands never come off the flight controls. :-)
Sam Buchanan
http://thervjournal.com
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: lost tailwheel steering |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
What brand tail wheel?
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
<SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
Subject: RV-List: lost tailwheel steering
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
>
> Yesterday I lost tailwheel steering on my RV-7. I had taxied, taken off,
> landed and taxied again, and it was business as usual...but when I went to
> leave, the rudder wasn't locking with the tailwheel. The winds were
> light,
> so this was no big deal, just took off and headed home. I had
> differential
> braking, obviously, so it was fine, but it was more than mildly annoying
> not
> having the usual steering authority and stability.
>
> Got back to the hangar and disassembled the tailwheel. I found that the
> problem was a very slight deformation of the spring-loaded key that
> inserts
> into the pivot shaft. The key was jamming inside the shaft. When I
> removed
> the tailwheel the key didn't spring back out like normal, and I had to tap
> it out from the opening on the front of the shaft.
>
> After cleaning it up, I used digital calipers to measure the height of the
> key. It was .2495" tall all the way to the back end (rounded end) where
> it
> was .2515" tall. Here's a photo:
>
> http://images.rvproject.com/images/2005/20050226_tailwheel_key.jpg
>
> The photo is a little fuzzy, but the arrows point to the little
> "build-ups"
> on the corners. That .002" was enough such that as the tailwheel shaft
> rotated and the key was forced all the way in, it would jam and not spring
> out...keeping the tailwheel from re-engaging with the control horn once it
> was centered again.
>
> I just filed a tiny bit off those little "built up" corners and the thing
> is
> smooth as silk again. I will most likely order a spare key to carry in my
> spare parts bag, just in case.
>
> Anyway, add this to your inspection list if it's not already on there.
> Make
> sure the key can slide in and out nice and smoothly. Any resistance
> should
> be addressed immediately imho. Loss of tailwheel steering at the wrong
> time
> could be unpleasant!
>
> )_( Dan
> RV-7 N714D (386 hours)
> http://www.rvproject.com
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bob Collins" <bcollins@visi.com>
I've had generally the same results with the SW primer. The thing is: I
really LIKE the primer. It's hard as nails. I've gone through 3/4 of a
gallon of the stuff and I'm still experimenting with it; and I spent a lot
of time last summer on various HVLP sites to get a good handle on how to use
these things. By the time I did the flap components last fall, they were
better. The problem seemed to be that the product wasn't atomizing enough.
So I turned down the fluid just a bit and turned up the pressure (I think
that's what I did). If you patrol the net for HVLP spray techniques, you'll
probably find a step-by-step to how to set the gun properly. Because the
instructions from Craftsman (maker of the HVLP gun) were crappy.
Also, I made the first pass a "fog coat," rather than try to, you know,
paint the piece. So a little more patience another solution (something I'm
not very good at. I should point out that I tried some of that water based
primer (the name of which I can't remember), and I didn't like the way that
went on either. So that's what sent me to "HVLP school." I figured it was
the painter, not the paint.
What I really go for with SW is a tint more than anything else.
Bob Collins
St. Paul
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Sam Buchanan wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> Bryan Jones wrote:
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>
>>I'm usually not one to try and talk someone out of building their custom
>>plane custom, but I've got to go along with the above sentements. For
>>goodness sake, you're building a tandem, conventional gear RV!! Put the
>>flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much greater
>>if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or look
>>away!
>>
>>When I'm landing, I usually drop flaps on short final. They start coming up
>>right after I get the mains down. I get the aero braking action on final to
>>touchdown, then when I start retracting them on rollout, I get the wheels
>>planted very firmly and remaining lift reduced. My hands never come off the
>>flight controls. Don't try that with your panel mounted flap switch.
>
>
>
> The flap switch on my RV-6 is mounted on the panel just above the
> throttle. It is a very comfortable reach with the index finger to manage
> the switch while my hand is on the throttle; there is no problem with
> bumping the switch unintentionally.
>
> My hands never come off the flight controls. :-)
>
> Sam Buchanan
> http://thervjournal.com
I just noticed Bryan has an RV-8; obviously the panel-mounted flap
switch is not the same situation for him as the side-by-side planes, and
his comments would certainly be applicable to RV-4 and RV-8 drivers with
their throttle quadrants.
Sam Buchanan
Message 16
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<SoCAL-RVlist@yahoogroups.com>
| Subject: | Re: [VAF Mailing List] lost tailwheel steering |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dan Checkoway" <dan@rvproject.com>
> Hey Dan... Great Post.
>
> One question however... How many hours did you have on that Key? That
> should give us a good window for our check list.
Just over 384 hours when the key failed.
And Cy asked:
> What brand tail wheel?
It's the standard Van's full swivel tailwheel, shipped in mid-2002.
)_( Dan
RV-7 N714D (386 hours)
http://www.rvproject.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
If you put the switch just above the throttle "on the panel", you will have
no trouble reaching it at any throttle position without removing your hand
from either. You also will eliminate any potential confusion with other
switches. IMHO, this is one of those things that really doesnt need to be
improved upon. Works great, lasts a long time.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Flap shaped switch
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>
>>That being said, it was only there for about 15 minutes. Why did I remove
>>it you ask; well...um....frankly, it looked stupid in my plane. So, I
>>sold
>>them on Ebay, and installed a regular toggle (which I put a White boot on)
>>and use that. Now, it matches the rest of my switches, and doesn't fludge
>>of the panel with a rather obnoxious protrusion....and....I don't desire
>>any
>>Cessna looking things on my beautiful RV panel :)
>
> I'm usually not one to try and talk someone out of building their custom
> plane custom, but I've got to go along with the above sentements. For
> goodness sake, you're building a tandem, conventional gear RV!! Put the
> flap switch on your stick or throttle. The functionality is so much
> greater
> if you can operate things like this without having to move your hand or
> look
> away!
>
> When I'm landing, I usually drop flaps on short final. They start coming
> up
> right after I get the mains down. I get the aero braking action on final
> to
> touchdown, then when I start retracting them on rollout, I get the wheels
> planted very firmly and remaining lift reduced. My hands never come off
> the
> flight controls. Don't try that with your panel mounted flap switch.
>
> another 2 cents
>
> Bryan -8 716 hrs
> Houston
>
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Henderson NC area info needed |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I have a friend who is moving to Henderson, and wife will be working in South hill
Virg. Anybody in the area? Pls reply to my email, cheathco@comcast.net. do
not archive.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: compass fluid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I have watched all the compass stuff, seems that pure alcohol is what is
normally used?? charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Bill,
I just got some compass fluid from Aircraft Spruce and didn't have to pay
high shipping. It came UPS Ground.
Be careful what you put in your compass. I used ultra pure lamp oil from
Home Depot, etc. It worked just fine, but later I found that it gelled to
a
semi-solid at about 32 degrees F. There were ice crystals throughout the
compass! No harm done, but a little annoying. That's why I now recommend
the
real stuff.
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying since last July)
In a message dated 2/26/05 8:39:52 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
rvpilot@access4less.net writes:
Listers
Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe
something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass
card.
I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of
fluid
Bill
Message 20
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| Subject: | Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
Sam,
I'm going to disagree with your retraction of your disagreement with Bryan.
My RV-8A's flap switch is mounted on the panel, right above the throttle,
and of course on an RV-8 that is on the left side of the cockpit. I think I
first saw that arrangement on Kevin Horton's panel layout. I like it
because I can reach it easily with my left hand without taking if off the
throttle, and it's NOT one of the many switches on the Infinity stick grip.
Of course I could change my mind when I start flying this 7 year old
project, but I don't think so.
I did make a flap-shaped handle for the flap toggle switch, but I don't like
the way it twists on the toggle. I may epoxy it to the toggle, IF I
determine that the toggle itself won't rotate. I used cutting board plastic
(handy stuff to have around) and made the hole a friction fit over the
toggle.
Terry
RV-8A #80729
Seattle
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
I just noticed Bryan has an RV-8; obviously the panel-mounted flap
switch is not the same situation for him as the side-by-side planes, and
his comments would certainly be applicable to RV-4 and RV-8 drivers with
their throttle quadrants.
Sam Buchanan
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: compass fluid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I'm sorry but NO modern compass for airplanes uses alcohol. NEVER ever use
alcohol when re-filling. It is a mis-nomer to call it a whisky compass as
it doesn't have any whisky or alcohol.
Cy Galley - Bellanca Champion Club
Newsletter Editor-in-Chief & EAA TC
www.bellanca-championclub.com
Actively supporting Bellancas every day
----- Original Message -----
From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
> I have watched all the compass stuff, seems that pure alcohol is what is
> normally used?? charlie heathco
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Hopperdhh@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
>
> Bill,
>
> I just got some compass fluid from Aircraft Spruce and didn't have to pay
> high shipping. It came UPS Ground.
>
> Be careful what you put in your compass. I used ultra pure lamp oil from
> Home Depot, etc. It worked just fine, but later I found that it gelled
> to
> a
> semi-solid at about 32 degrees F. There were ice crystals throughout the
> compass! No harm done, but a little annoying. That's why I now
> recommend
> the
> real stuff.
>
> Dan Hopper
> Walton, IN
> RV-7A (Flying since last July)
>
>
> In a message dated 2/26/05 8:39:52 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
> rvpilot@access4less.net writes:
> Listers
>
> Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe
> something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass
> card.
>
> I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of
> fluid
>
> Bill
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
Terry Watson wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Terry Watson" <terry@tcwatson.com>
>
> Sam,
>
> I'm going to disagree with your retraction of your disagreement with Bryan.
Ok....in that case I retract the retraction! :-)
Man, it's great knowing I'm right regardless of which side I take!!!
Sam Buchanan
==============================
>
> My RV-8A's flap switch is mounted on the panel, right above the throttle,
> and of course on an RV-8 that is on the left side of the cockpit. I think I
> first saw that arrangement on Kevin Horton's panel layout. I like it
> because I can reach it easily with my left hand without taking if off the
> throttle, and it's NOT one of the many switches on the Infinity stick grip.
>
> Of course I could change my mind when I start flying this 7 year old
> project, but I don't think so.
>
> I did make a flap-shaped handle for the flap toggle switch, but I don't like
> the way it twists on the toggle. I may epoxy it to the toggle, IF I
> determine that the toggle itself won't rotate. I used cutting board plastic
> (handy stuff to have around) and made the hole a friction fit over the
> toggle.
>
> Terry
> RV-8A #80729
> Seattle
>
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: Sam Buchanan <sbuc@hiwaay.net>
>
> I just noticed Bryan has an RV-8; obviously the panel-mounted flap
> switch is not the same situation for him as the side-by-side planes, and
> his comments would certainly be applicable to RV-4 and RV-8 drivers with
> their throttle quadrants.
>
> Sam Buchanan
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> .
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: compass fluid |
--> RV-List message posted by: "mailindex@juno.com" <mailindex@juno.com>
I have used baby oil in the past with good luck
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
Listers
Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe
something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass card.
I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of fluid
Bill
Now includes pop-up blocker!
Only $14.95/month -visit http://www.juno.com/surf to sign up today!
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
I may have once or twice over 700+ hrs, but with no consequences since it's
a momentary switch. What I did do once early on was to catch it with a pant
leg. broke the switch. I learned to not do that again!
Bryan
>
>Did you ever have trouble accidentally bumping the flaps while
>in cruise? Someone mentioned this as a risk when the flap
>switch is on the stick. I'm putting in a flaps on/off switch
>on my panel, right next to the trim on/off switch. Probably
>overkill...
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>If you put the switch just above the throttle "on the panel", you will have
>no trouble reaching it at any throttle position without removing your hand
>from either. You also will eliminate any potential confusion with other
>switches. IMHO, this is one of those things that really doesnt need to be
>improved upon. Works great, lasts a long time.
>
>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>RV-6A, N915JD
>165 hours
>Chicago/Louisville
Notice we're talking RV-8. Panel is not reachable from the throttle
quadrant without having the throttle at full and stretching your fingers.
RV-4 is very similar. Very awkward.
Bryan
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Flap shaped switch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Scott Jackson" <jayeandscott@telus.net>
this won't sound very humble, but I believe the flap switch setup my -6 has
is as close to ideal as is possible.
with a left-hand throttle for the left-seat pilot, the original tiny ball on
top of the lever was removed and a mil-surplus throttle grip was bolted on
in its place.
This grip comes with a three-position, slide switch, with raised guards on
either side, that was originally used for thumbing the speedbrakes in and
out, as well as having a separate mic PTT button.
It was a simple matter to wire up the flap motor to the switch, and my thumb
is always right beside it whenever the rest of my hand is on the throttle.
Picture of same on the Western Canada Wing website, under members'
airplanes.
Scott in Vancouver
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Flap shaped switch
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Jones" <rv_8pilot@hotmail.com>
>
>>If you put the switch just above the throttle "on the panel", you will
>>have
>>no trouble reaching it at any throttle position without removing your hand
>>from either. You also will eliminate any potential confusion with other
>>switches. IMHO, this is one of those things that really doesnt need to be
>>improved upon. Works great, lasts a long time.
>>
>>Shemp/Jeff Dowling
>>RV-6A, N915JD
>>165 hours
>>Chicago/Louisville
>
>
> Notice we're talking RV-8. Panel is not reachable from the throttle
> quadrant without having the throttle at full and stretching your fingers.
> RV-4 is very similar. Very awkward.
>
> Bryan
>
>
>
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message |
from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with Sherwin
Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave up
> and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA. However, I
am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this
> primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am
not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the
> reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the
settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically,
> the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I
know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which
> makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that on
other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would
> help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks.
>
> - Matt
Mix it two to one, this was common knowledge a few years ago, guess it
hasn't been discussed in a while.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
Message 28
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|
| Subject: | KISM - Kissimmee Gateway Info |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Don Kugler" <donkugler@earthlink.net>
I'm planning to fly the RV into Kissimmee, FL (KISM) from NJ next
Tuesday 3/8 and stay through Saturday. Anyone out there have any
recommendations on any of the FBOs on the field?
Please respond off-list.
Thanks in advance,
-Don
Don Kugler
RV8 - NJ
donkugler@earthlink.net
Do not archive
Message 29
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| Subject: | RE: Compass Fluid |
--> RV-List message posted by: emrath@comcast.net
Bill, try doing a search on this list, there has been a number of others asking
this question. I don't recall all the responses, but years ago, I heard that
Baby Oil will work very nicely.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 09:47:04 PM PST US
From: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid
--> RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke <wjoke@shaw.ca>
Bill;
I used hardware store Varsol when rebuilding an Airpath compass. Works fine.
Fill a coffee can or similar container, immerse the compass and keep turning
it until the air bubbles all escape.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, C-GKGZ
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Subject: RV-List: compass fluid
> --> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
>
> Listers
>
> Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe
> something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass
> card.
>
> I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of
> fluid
>
> Bill
>
>
>
Bill, try doing a search on this list, there has been a number of others asking
this question. I don't recall all the responses, but years ago, I heard that
Baby Oil will work very nicely.
Marty in Brentwood TN
Time: 09:47:04 PM PST US
From: Jim Oke wjoke@shaw.ca
Subject: Re: RV-List: compass fluid
-- RV-List message posted by: Jim Oke wjoke@shaw.ca
Bill;
I used hardware store Varsol when rebuilding an Airpath compass. Works fine.
Fill a coffee can or similar container, immerse the compass and keep turning
it until the air bubbles all escape.
Jim Oke
RV-6A, C-GKGZ
Wpg., MB
----- Original Message -----
From: "William Davis" <A onclick="return doCompose(this);"
00761438089B0E9D030A?cmd=ComposeToadr=rvpilot%40access4less%2Enetsid=c0">rvpilot@access4less.net
Subject: RV-List: compass fluid
-- RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" rvpilot@access4less.net
Listers
Does anyone know of a good substitute for commercial compass fluid, maybe
something just a bit more viscous and that wouldn't discolor the compass
card.
I hate to spend $20 hazardous material charge to ship a 3 OZ. bottle of
fluid
Bill
Message 30
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| Subject: | Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
One more question I had regarding priming prep. I know some people say it is not
necessary to prime the internal parts. However, if you
count on the alclad to protect the metal, do you have to worry about scratching
it? I know it is a very thin coating. Also, if you do prime it,
is it necessary to sand the whole part down to score it if you are using self-etching
primer? I am spending a lot of time scoring parts prior to
priming and it is a pain. I want to make sure it is something everyone is doing
and I am not wasting my time. I also wasnt sure if the only
parts with the coating are the ones that are shiny (like the skin) or if it is
all parts (like the wing ribs). Sorry for all the questions in one
email...
- Matt
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | fixed pitch to CS conversion |
0.00 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
--> RV-List message posted by: luckymacy@comcast.net (lucky)
A friend of mine bought an O-360-A1A from Vans for a FP prop and now wants to convert
it to CS. He as the overhaul manual and it briefly discusses the conversion
but he says he needs to know a bit more about just how to take some plug
out or something like that. Is there an online resource he can take a look at?
Or has anyone done it and willing to take a phone call from him?
Thanks,
Lucky
A friend of mine bought an O-360-A1A from Vans for a FP prop and now wants to convert
it to CS. He as the overhaul manual and it briefly discusses the conversion
but he says he needs to know a bit more about just how to take some plug
out or something like that. Is there an online resource he can take a look at?
Or has anyone done it and willing to take a phone call from him?
Thanks,
Lucky
Message 32
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| Subject: | fixed pitch to CS conversion |
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
No problem. I can be reached at 330-324-2041
John Furey
RV6A
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not processed: |
me...
--> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
In a message dated 02/27/2005 7:16:48 PM Central Standard Time,
matt@n559rv.com writes:
Also, if you do prime it,
is it necessary to sand the whole part down to score it if you are using
self-etching primer? I am spending a lot of time scoring parts prior to
priming and it is a pain.
>>>
I don't believe you really need to "score" it, just scuff it with Scotchbrite
(I like the red #7447) enough to take the shine off the surface, which gives
the primer some really raw material to bite into, then wipe it all down really
well (I used naphtha) before applying the primer- you'll be amazed how much
stuff is left on the part after scuffing. Another tip- ALWAYS wipe the parts
down with solvent (did I mention naphtha?) BEFORE scuffing because your fingers
will always leave oil on the part, and even the Scotchbrite will not scuff
the part where the oil is. I noticed on some of my early parts that after
scuffing that there were places here and there on the part that did not scuff well
(still relatively shiny), and they were all the size of fingerprints! Use
nitrile gloves when wiping, and cotton cloves while handling the clean parts
before/during priming.
From The PossumWorks in TN
Mark Phillips -6A N51PW, 150 hrs.
Message 34
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| Subject: | Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
My RV9A now has 27 hours on it. The 0-320 E2-D runs great - except that
every now and then the engine will "hic-up". It only last for a fraction of a
second - just enough to test one's sphinter control. I can't be sure (yet), but
it seems to occur more often when running on the left tank. Then it goes
back to running well. She has new plugs, new carb, new mags and wiring harness.
When it hic-ups the fuel flow and pressure are unchanged. All temps are
normal.
I have a theory that I want an opinion on.
Occasionally I get a smell of fuel in the cockpit when on the ground. I have
checked the fuel lines and selector valve and find no obvious leaks, although
the smell seems to come from the selector valve area. If there is a small
leak between the tank and the fuel pump(s), the fuel is being drawn by a vacuum
and would then suck up small amouts of air into the fuel line without showing
a leak. (The fuel is drawn by vacuum and therefore would not drip out the
line.) Would a small air bubble in the fuel line cause the engine to
occasionally burp?
If this is the problem am I damaging the engine?
If you guys think this might be the cultret, maybe I should replace the
selector valve since all the connections look good. Not a job I look forward to
unless I have to ....
Thanks for everyone's help!
Kim Nicholas
RV9A Auburn, Washington.
Message 35
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "David Carter" <dcarter@datarecall.net>
Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above 50%
humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and breaking
off? That's what my Piper Cub did the day in December 1956 when running
below an overcast at 800 feet coming out of San Antonio - five minutes later
the engine quit cold - until I hit the throttle and broke a lot of ice
loose. I immediately pulled on carb heat and then it ran "really bad" as it
ingested all that water, but caught and cleared up before prop stopped
(can't dive a Cub to restart engine).
Next time you get that "hic-up", pull on carb heat and see if it runs bad
for a few seconds as you melt out ice. You do have carb heat don't you?
Guy in Utah I know didn't - and had to replace both fuel tanks after he took
out some fence posts after his forced landing. Then he added carb heat
system.
David
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2@aol.com>
Subject: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
> My RV9A now has 27 hours on it. The 0-320 E2-D runs great - except that
> every now and then the engine will "hic-up". It only last for a fraction
of a
> second - just enough to test one's sphinter control. I can't be sure
(yet), but
> it seems to occur more often when running on the left tank. Then it
goes
> back to running well. She has new plugs, new carb, new mags and wiring
harness.
> When it hic-ups the fuel flow and pressure are unchanged. All temps are
> normal.
>
> I have a theory that I want an opinion on.
>
> Occasionally I get a smell of fuel in the cockpit when on the ground. I
have
> checked the fuel lines and selector valve and find no obvious leaks,
although
> the smell seems to come from the selector valve area. If there is a small
> leak between the tank and the fuel pump(s), the fuel is being drawn by a
vacuum
> and would then suck up small amouts of air into the fuel line without
showing
> a leak. (The fuel is drawn by vacuum and therefore would not drip out the
> line.) Would a small air bubble in the fuel line cause the engine to
> occasionally burp?
>
> If this is the problem am I damaging the engine?
>
> If you guys think this might be the cultret, maybe I should replace the
> selector valve since all the connections look good. Not a job I look
forward to
> unless I have to ....
>
> Thanks for everyone's help!
>
> Kim Nicholas
> RV9A Auburn, Washington.
>
>
Message 36
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Knicholas2@aol.com wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
>My RV9A now has 27 hours on it. The 0-320 E2-D runs great - except that
>every now and then the engine will "hic-up". It only last for a fraction of a
>second - just enough to test one's sphinter control. I can't be sure (yet), but
>it seems to occur more often when running on the left tank. Then it goes
>back to running well. She has new plugs, new carb, new mags and wiring harness.
> When it hic-ups the fuel flow and pressure are unchanged. All temps are
>normal.
>
>I have a theory that I want an opinion on.
>
>Occasionally I get a smell of fuel in the cockpit when on the ground. I have
>checked the fuel lines and selector valve and find no obvious leaks, although
>the smell seems to come from the selector valve area. If there is a small
>leak between the tank and the fuel pump(s), the fuel is being drawn by a vacuum
>and would then suck up small amouts of air into the fuel line without showing
>a leak. (The fuel is drawn by vacuum and therefore would not drip out the
>line.) Would a small air bubble in the fuel line cause the engine to
>occasionally burp?
>
No, The carb bowl is a reservoir for the fuel and the pump will keep it
'full' even if there are lots of air bubbles. Well, until the amount of
fuel pumped in becomes less than the engine is sucking up.
>If this is the problem am I damaging the engine?
>
It's not the problem. It could be running too lean ..... or even too
rich, but I suspect lean. You might also have an intake leak. Hook up
a vacuum cleaner to blow (clean it out real good""") and stick that into
the intake and seal with some rags. Turn on the 'blower' and spray the
intake tubes with soapy water to find the leak.
>If you guys think this might be the cultret, maybe I should replace the
>selector valve since all the connections look good. Not a job I look forward
to
>unless I have to ....
>
I doubt you have to. You have good (I guess) fuel flow and pressure so
that's not the problem. Check mixture and/or leaks and get back to us.
Linn
do not archive
>
>Thanks for everyone's help!
>
>Kim Nicholas
>RV9A Auburn, Washington.
>
>
>
>
--
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Message 37
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Kim: You don't say what brand of fuel valve you have. FWIW I have an
Andair valve and discovered at about 15 hours that it was leaking very slightly
at
the square plate on the front of the valve into which the AN fitting to the
right tank threads. I disassembled the fuel valve console, removed the valve,
tightened the four screws that secure the square plate and staked them (only
the Brits do this kind of thing). Eighteen hours later I don't have any more
leaks, but have my fingers crossed.
As far as the engine hiccups are concerned, now that I think back I may have
had a few early on but would hesitate to blame them on the seeping fuel valve.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 38
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| Subject: | Cracked dimples. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
Help:
The bottom fuselage skin on my RV-6A sticks out on both sides and is screwed
to the wing root ribs after the wings are installed (to add strength to the
entire assembly according to Vans). I forgot about this little detail until
I was doing some stuff under the airplane recently and realized that I
hadn't done that yet. So I went and drilled the skin to the wings then,
painful as it was, pulled the wing back out to install the nutplates in the
root rib and dimple the screw holes in the fuselage bottom skin. Flush
number 8 machine screws were called for so I drilled #19 holes and used an
Avery dimple die that was specifically made for #8 screws. Problem is, now
that the .025 bottom skin has been dimpled I noticed that there are cracks
running down the cones (raised areas) of most of the dimples. I know this is
not a good thing and I'm wondering what to do about it. I've been working
on this airplane for a long time and the thought of having to do more rework
is very discouraging! Especially when I'm just doing what Van's plans tell
me to do. Should I cut the bottom skin off past the screw holes, rivet on a
new piece and re-drill and re-dimple (no guarantee the replacement won't
crack too)? I really hate to do that because the skin is one piece and an
integral part of the bottom fuselage right now. Since the skin is screwed
to the bottom of the wing, I assume that as the wings take on positive G
loads they will put stress on the dimpled holes of the fuselage bottom skin
and make the cracks worse. Has anybody else experienced this? Any
recommendations on how to fix it? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Unhappy at Hidden Lakes
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