Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:40 AM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (RVer273sb@aol.com)
2. 05:15 AM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (Charles Heathco)
3. 05:35 AM - Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not processed: me... (Helming, L R & K L)
4. 05:49 AM - Re: Cracked dimples. (Charlie Kuss)
5. 06:00 AM - Re: lost tailwheel steering (Chris Brooks)
6. 06:21 AM - Re: compass fluid : Try Jet_a Fuel (Philip Condon)
7. 06:24 AM - Re: Cracked dimples. (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
8. 06:50 AM - Re: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D (Scott Bilinski)
9. 07:19 AM - Electronic ign & mag combo (Charles Heathco)
10. 07:26 AM - Re: Cruise performance data (Scott Bilinski)
11. 08:03 AM - pro seal (Paul Rice)
12. 08:06 AM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (Knicholas2@aol.com)
13. 08:07 AM - Re: Primer Job looks like Crap... (Matt Johnson)
14. 08:14 AM - Re: cruise performance test data listed (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
15. 08:15 AM - Re: Cracked dimples. (Rob Prior (rv7))
16. 08:40 AM - Re: pro seal (Paul Trotter)
17. 09:10 AM - Re: pro seal (Richard Tasker)
18. 09:44 AM - Re: RV-List Digest: 0-320 E2D hiccups (PSPRV6A@aol.com)
19. 09:45 AM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (Charles Heathco)
20. 10:20 AM - Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not processed: me... (Randy Lervold)
21. 11:00 AM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (Knicholas2@aol.com)
22. 11:13 AM - Re: Electronic ign & mag combo (Charles Rowbotham)
23. 11:46 AM - Dynon EFIS (glennpaulwilkinson)
24. 12:13 PM - Fiberglass cockpit (Cammie Patch)
25. 12:38 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS (Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta))
26. 12:38 PM - Re: Fiberglass cockpit (linn walters)
27. 12:59 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS (Doug Rozendaal)
28. 01:17 PM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (SportAV8R@aol.com)
29. 01:52 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS (John Furey)
30. 03:11 PM - Hanger or Garage (Bill Cary)
31. 03:23 PM - Re: Hanger or Garage (Scott Vanartsdalen)
32. 03:31 PM - Re: Hanger or Garage (CBRxxDRV@aol.com)
33. 03:45 PM - Re: Hanger or Garage (Scott Bilinski)
34. 04:46 PM - Re: Hanger or Garage (Knicholas2@aol.com)
35. 04:46 PM - Re: Dynon EFIS (Jeff Dowling)
36. 05:10 PM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (William Davis)
37. 05:27 PM - Compass fluid (William Davis)
38. 05:41 PM - Global Flyer (Doug Rozendaal)
39. 06:11 PM - Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? (Charlie England)
40. 09:41 PM - Paging Stein Bruch (DEAN PSIROPOULOS)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: RVer273sb@aol.com
I would think it unlikely a occasional air leak would cause a
hick up. The fuel is going into a vented chamber in the carb
so air would be able to vent out. Now fuel injection would be
a different story.
I have had this hick up on my O-320 with fuel injection for
a while and still am trying to figure it out.
Stewart, RV-4
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
Kim, assuming you are running av gas, I have experienced an occasional
hickup on my cherokee with o-320 e2a, which does indead get your attention.
A&P friend atributes these to av gas lead fowling burn off. I havent
experienced this with my RV burning Mo gas. Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: <HCRV6@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
--> RV-List message posted by: HCRV6@aol.com
Kim: You don't say what brand of fuel valve you have. FWIW I have an
Andair valve and discovered at about 15 hours that it was leaking very
slightly at
the square plate on the front of the valve into which the AN fitting to the
right tank threads. I disassembled the fuel valve console, removed the
valve,
tightened the four screws that secure the square plate and staked them (only
the Brits do this kind of thing). Eighteen hours later I don't have any
more
leaks, but have my fingers crossed.
As far as the engine hiccups are concerned, now that I think back I may have
had a few early on but would hesitate to blame them on the seeping fuel
valve.
Harry Crosby
Pleasanton, California
RV-6, flying!
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not processed: |
me...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Helming, L R & K L" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
I will add some to the Mark's response. Before scuffing with scotchbrite,
clean with naptha (aka coleman lantern fuel) using clean cloth and wash the
surface well with a good soap such as Dawn dishwashing soap. This gets rid
of any oil, finger prints, etc. I like to use the soap also while
scotchbriting it. Then wear rubber gloves and rinse well and do not allow
your skin to touch the surface before priming. Larry in Indiana
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not
processed: me...
> --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 02/27/2005 7:16:48 PM Central Standard Time,
> matt@n559rv.com writes:
> Also, if you do prime it,
> is it necessary to sand the whole part down to score it if you are using
> self-etching primer? I am spending a lot of time scoring parts prior to
> priming and it is a pain.
>>>>
>
> I don't believe you really need to "score" it, just scuff it with
> Scotchbrite
> (I like the red #7447) enough to take the shine off the surface, which
> gives
> the primer some really raw material to bite into, then wipe it all down
> really
> well (I used naphtha) before applying the primer- you'll be amazed how
> much
> stuff is left on the part after scuffing. Another tip- ALWAYS wipe the
> parts
> down with solvent (did I mention naphtha?) BEFORE scuffing because your
> fingers
> will always leave oil on the part, and even the Scotchbrite will not scuff
> the part where the oil is. I noticed on some of my early parts that after
> scuffing that there were places here and there on the part that did not
> scuff well
> (still relatively shiny), and they were all the size of fingerprints! Use
> nitrile gloves when wiping, and cotton cloves while handling the clean
> parts
> before/during priming.
>
> From The PossumWorks in TN
> Mark Phillips -6A N51PW, 150 hrs.
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked dimples. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
Dean
I had the same thing happen when I dimpled my first fuel tank skin. I
asked my local RV guru what to do. (he's and A&P/IA) He told me to use a
small jeweler's file and carefully file out the cracks. He told me that the
cracks form do to the extreme stretching of the aluminum by the #8 die. He
told me that using a #17 drill (rather than a #19) will eliminate the
cracking, without unduly weakening the dimpled hole. I've used that method
since than, with 100% success.
Charlie Kuss
>--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
><dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
>
>Help:
>
>The bottom fuselage skin on my RV-6A sticks out on both sides and is screwed
>to the wing root ribs after the wings are installed (to add strength to the
>entire assembly according to Vans). I forgot about this little detail until
>I was doing some stuff under the airplane recently and realized that I
>hadn't done that yet. So I went and drilled the skin to the wings then,
>painful as it was, pulled the wing back out to install the nutplates in the
>root rib and dimple the screw holes in the fuselage bottom skin. Flush
>number 8 machine screws were called for so I drilled #19 holes and used an
>Avery dimple die that was specifically made for #8 screws. Problem is, now
>that the .025 bottom skin has been dimpled I noticed that there are cracks
>running down the cones (raised areas) of most of the dimples. I know this is
>not a good thing and I'm wondering what to do about it. I've been working
>on this airplane for a long time and the thought of having to do more rework
>is very discouraging! Especially when I'm just doing what Van's plans tell
>me to do. Should I cut the bottom skin off past the screw holes, rivet on a
>new piece and re-drill and re-dimple (no guarantee the replacement won't
>crack too)? I really hate to do that because the skin is one piece and an
>integral part of the bottom fuselage right now. Since the skin is screwed
>to the bottom of the wing, I assume that as the wings take on positive G
>loads they will put stress on the dimpled holes of the fuselage bottom skin
>and make the cracks worse. Has anybody else experienced this? Any
>recommendations on how to fix it? Thanks.
>
>Dean Psiropoulos
>RV-6A N197DM
>Unhappy at Hidden Lakes
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: lost tailwheel steering |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Chris Brooks" <brooksrv6@hotmail.com>
I had this happen at 60hrs. It must not be that uncommon. I polished the
pawl and lubed everything with 30WT oil instead of grease. I don't know if
it helps but I found information in the archives that the tailwheel stems
work better with oil.
Chris Brooks
Message 6
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| Subject: | compass fluid : Try Jet_a Fuel |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Philip Condon" <pcondon@mitre.org>
RV-List: compass fluid.
I use Jet-A fuel as compass refill fluid. Its ultra pure, no water to
freeze, no smelly sulphers or waxes and it is F R E E. Normally a quick
sump from a King Air( or any other like aircraft), with owner permission,
with my sump fuel checker is all that is needed to get enough fluid to fill
the compass cavity..
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked dimples. |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
In a message dated 2/28/05 8:50:10 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
chaztuna@adelphia.net writes:
http://www.matronics.com/subscription
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: EGTs and leaning on my O320-E2D |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
Very interesting numbers. From everything I have read and from what your
numbers show, it looks like at take off power, cylinders 3 and 4 may be
running too lean. Boy am I glad I sprung for the injection up front!
At 11:30 PM 2/24/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: dmedema@att.net
>
>As I mentioned on my previous post, I've been testing our
>new engine monitor. In addition to the on-the-ground test
>I described in my last post, I also did some in-air work
>looking at leaning at 3000', 5000', and 7000'. My plane
>has an O320-E2D with a Sensenich fixed pitch prop. I have
>a Slick mag on the left ignition and a Lightspeed on the
>right side.
>
>The test was to stabilize the plane at each of the 3 altitudes
>with full-rich mixture and 2400 RPM. I then recorded the EGTs
>at this condition. I then slowly leaned the mixture to where
>the engine roughened and then richened just enough to get it
>to run smooth. I let it stabilize and recorded the temperatures.
>
>Here is the data:
>3000' stable at 2400 RPM
>Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
>1 1220 1387 +167
>2 1284 1421 +137
>3 1364 1419 +55
>4 1389 1414 +25 Peaked 1st.
>
>5000' stable at 2400 RPM
>Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
>1 1207 1358 +151
>2 1229 1383 +154
>3 1332 1390 +58
>4 1334 1381 +47 Peaked 1st.
>
>7000' stable at 2400 RPM
>Cyl Full Rich Lean Delta
>1 1137 1353 +216
>2 1170 1381 +211
>3 1309 1360 +51 Peaked 1st.
>4 1321 1373 +52
>
>As you can see, cylinders 3 and 4 seem to be running
>much leaner than 1 and 2 when the mixture is full
>rich. I observe that the EGTs really even out when I
>lean the mixture.
>
>I note that on the ground at 1500 RPM full-rich, all
>my EGTs were in a fairly normal band from 1140-1193.
>
>Any of the engine gurus (or not so gurus) have any
>thoughts about what I'm seeing? Has anyone else done
>a test like this? If so, can you post your results?
>
>Thanks,
>Doug Medema
>RV-6A N276DM
>Dynon Avionics
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 9
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| Subject: | Electronic ign & mag combo |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
In the prev posts re EGT's I noticed the engine had a mag and a Lightspeed. I have
been considering making the change, but recall Ed whatshisname in Greensboro
telling me he had taken his electrnic off and going back to dual mags because
of problems. I would like to heare current thoughts on this, charlie heathco
LZU
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Cruise performance data |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
One thing that has not been mentioned here is that the MT shines at cruise
power settings.
At 09:18 AM 2/26/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
>
>Hi All,
>
>Just thought I would mention, before the flames start, that the 3 blade MT
>propeller performed about the same as the Hartzell 2 blade propeller at
>7,500'
>and above.
>
>This seems to be in conflict with the test data provided by Van's Aircraft
>in the RVator.
>
>Van's Aircraft used a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller.
>
>I used a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59d propeller. MT Propeller modified the
>blades for better performance. That is why the added little letter "d"
>appears
>in the propeller designation.
>
>MT Propeller now has a 3 blade MTV-12-B/183-59b propeller. This propeller
>is predicted to have 3 or 4 knots better performance than the -59d blades.
>
>The MTV-12-B/183-59b propeller is the only 3 blade propeller from MT
>Propeller that does NOT have a mid range RPM restriction on the
>Lycoming 360 engine
>without crankshaft counterweights.
>
>The MTV-12-B/183-59 propeller DOES have a mid range RPM restriction from
>2050 to 2300 RPM on the Lycoming 360 engine without crankshaft dampeners.
>
>Regards,
>Jim Ayers
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 11
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Seal-Send-Time: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 11:01:49 -0500
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Hey anyone,
I have a friend who is building an RV-6, he bought the kit partially
completed. He is now working on the fuel tanks and would like to know how
long it should take for the pro seal to cure and what it should look and
feel like when that happens. He is using the recommended mix proportions
and it is a new batch of material.
Thanks,
Paul Rice
RV-8QB working on rudder
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
In a message dated 2/27/2005 9:01:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dcarter@datarecall.net writes:
Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above 50%
humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and breaking
off?
Thanks to all who offered input. I guess I should give some additional
information.
-Yes, I am using AV gas 100LL. I try to lean it out - especially on the
ground.
-When I checked the plugs they were all moderately lead fouled. It
hic-up'd even with brand new plugs.
-The fuel selector is the one that Van included in the kit so I don't
remember the brand.
- It has been cold here and high humidity (after all , this IS Seattle!)
but it would hic-up even in the summer when the temperatures were in the mid
70's.
The idea of the hic up being burning off carbon sounds good but I would sure
like a more definative answer....
Thanks again,
Kim Nicholas
Message 13
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| Subject: | Primer Job looks like Crap... |
(not processed: message from valid local sender)
--> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
Wow, I just called NAPA on this stuff and the 8846 is $154.89 a gallon and the
8848 is $96.99 a gallon...
Also, it is both epoxy and self etching? I thought the epoxy's were not self etching...
- Matt
-----Original Message-----
From: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
Subject: RE: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message
from valid local sender)
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Bryan Hooks" <bryanhooks@comcast.net>
>
> When you go down to NAPA, you might ask for their 8846 and 8848 (primer
> and reducer). It's a 2-part, self etching epoxy primer, and does a
> fantastic job for me. I also keep a few cans of the spray version on
> hand as well for small jobs, but it is not as resistant to scratches,
> etc.
>
> In the past, I had a batch (on the inside of the rudder skin) that came
> out terrible as well. Turned out, I didn't shake up the primer can and
> get it mixed well enough before mixing it in with the reducer. But it
> was the same deal as yours, in that no one will ever see it.
>
> With regards to the Sherwin Williams, I haven't used it, but have heard
> of several on the list who were really happy with it as well. Wish I
> could offer a solution for you there.
>
> Bryan Hooks
> RV-7A slow-build
> Knoxville, TN
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Matt Johnson
> To: RV7and7A@yahoogroups.com; rv-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV-List: Primer Job looks like Crap... (not processed: message
> from valid local sender)
>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Matt Johnson" <matt@n559rv.com>
>
> I am very frustrated. Today I attempted to paint my wing ribs with
> Sherwin Williams P60 G2 Primer and it looked horrible. I finally gave
> up
>
> and am going to do them with the good old spray cans from NAPA.
> However,
> I am interested in if I was doing something wrong or if this
> primer never goes on consistent. I have painted many times before, I am
> not new to it. I used the suggested mix ratio of 1:1.5 on the
> reducer and I am used two different paint guns and messed with the
> settings on each for 45 minutes or more before giving up. Basically,
> the paint looked splattered when it went on. Not a consistent color. I
> know the primer is supposed to be a semi-transparent green which
> makes it harder but it just looked bad and I dont remember seeing that
> on other planes I have looked at. Anyway, any feedback would
> help. I was using pressure between 40-70 P.S.I too. Thanks.
>
> - Matt
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: cruise performance test data listed |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi Kevin and all,
Repeatability of the instruments is important in comparison testing, not
accuracy. (One aircraft without modifications between propeller tests. True
ias used to compensate for differences in pressure and temperature.)
Each reading was made to the nearest mph ias. The repeatability of this
reading alone is only within 1 mph.
Even though we were flying in smooth air up to 80 miles out to sea, we were
over some islands, and were getting occasional up and down drafts (standing
waves).
My best guess is each data point is accurate within 4 mph ias.
For the 30 plus data points taken for each propeller, there doesn't appear
to be any significant difference in the performance of these cruise CS
propellers.
Some trends can be observed.
The Hartzell appears to have a slight performance edge at 2,500'.
The MT 3 blade seems to have a light performance edge at 7,500' and above.
(Both of these 2 blade vs 3 blade trends are correct for CURRENT propeller
theory.)
Each flight involved 5 different altitudes with 5 to 10 power settings at
each altitude. My friend with the RV-6A seemed to loose interest in this type
of flying after 7 flights. :-)
Regards,
Jim Ayers
In a message dated 02/27/2005 11:59:35 PM Pacific Standard Time,
rv-list-digest@matronics.com writes:
Time: 05:28:02 AM PST US
From: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: cruise performance test data listed
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
(Stuff cut)
Is your data repeatable over several flights? Or, is it possible
that you have "noisy" data?
Your results seem to be based on taking IAS, and converting to TAS.
Have you done any flight testing to calibrate your airspeeds? The
ASI instrument error and static source position error may both vary a
bit with speed.
--
Kevin Horton RV-8 (finishing kit)
Ottawa, Canada
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Cracked dimples. |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Rob Prior (rv7)" <rv7@b4.ca>
On 5:40:30 2005-02-28 Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Charlie Kuss <chaztuna@adelphia.net>
> I asked my local RV guru what to do. (he's and A&P/IA) He told me to
> use a small jeweler's file and carefully file out the cracks. He told
> me that the cracks form do to the extreme stretching of the aluminum
> by the #8 die.
I wouldn't recommend trying to "file out" the cracks. Unless you've got a
dye penetrant kit handy, you probably can't see the end of the crack, so
you don't know how far to file. You also might miss micro-cracks along the
perimeter of the hole that will develop later into larger cracks.
> He told me that using a #17 drill (rather than a #19)
> will eliminate the cracking, without unduly weakening the dimpled
> hole. I've used that method since than, with 100% success.
I think this is the best solution. Unfortunately in this case, I think it
means the builder will be replacing a skin (or part of a skin) to do it.
Do we call these "skin grafts" when building airplanes? 8-)
-Rob
> > --> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS"
> > <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
> > Should I cut the bottom skin off past the screw holes, rivet
> > on a new piece and re-drill and re-dimple (no guarantee the
> > replacement won't crack too)? I really hate to do that because the
> > skin is one piece and an integral part of the bottom fuselage right
> > now.
Message 16
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--> RV-List message posted by: Paul Trotter <ptrotter@acm.org>
Paul,
In general, Pro-Seal should take about 64 hours to become tack free and 112
hours to become completely cured. This is based on a temperature of about
75 deg. F. If it is cooler, it will take a bit longer. It should be a dark
grey in appearance and should be fairly hard to the touch, but is somewhat
rubbery and will dent if pressed hard.
Paul
----- Original Message -----
From: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
Subject: RV-List: pro seal
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>
> Hey anyone,
>
> I have a friend who is building an RV-6, he bought the kit partially
> completed. He is now working on the fuel tanks and would like to know how
> long it should take for the pro seal to cure and what it should look and
> feel like when that happens. He is using the recommended mix proportions
> and it is a new batch of material.
>
> Thanks,
> Paul Rice
> RV-8QB working on rudder
>
>
Message 17
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--> RV-List message posted by: Richard Tasker <retasker@optonline.net>
It takes several days to cure (highly dependent on the ambient
temperature) completely. When cured it is a firm rubbery consistency.
Dick Tasker
Paul Rice wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Rice" <rice737@msn.com>
>
>Hey anyone,
>
>I have a friend who is building an RV-6, he bought the kit partially
>completed. He is now working on the fuel tanks and would like to know how
>long it should take for the pro seal to cure and what it should look and
>feel like when that happens. He is using the recommended mix proportions
>and it is a new batch of material.
>
>Thanks,
>Paul Rice
>RV-8QB working on rudder
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: RV-List Digest: 0-320 E2D hiccups |
--> RV-List message posted by: PSPRV6A@aol.com
If the hiccups are very slight, here is a possible explanation: I flew
this exact engine for 1,000 hours in my 172 and always observed those very
slight "hiccups" when cruising at lean mixture. It is MUCH less than a cylinder
missfire. I believe it is a random misfire of one of the two plugs due to the
mixture not being perfect at that plug, happening about one time per thousand
firings. That will produce a very slight reduction in power from that
cylinder, that cycle. This was totally predictible when cruising with very lean
mixture. No harm done!
Paul S. Petersen Minnetonka MN, RV6A with son
Eric, 90% complete
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
One last question, is the hickup just one very brief miss, say 1/2 to 1
second (a long time when you hear and feel it :-)), and only on occasion? If
so, My A&P buddy says not to worry. (I know I know :-) ) Charlie
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
In a message dated 2/27/2005 9:01:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
dcarter@datarecall.net writes:
Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above
50%
humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and
breaking
off?
Thanks to all who offered input. I guess I should give some additional
information.
-Yes, I am using AV gas 100LL. I try to lean it out - especially on the
ground.
-When I checked the plugs they were all moderately lead fouled. It
hic-up'd even with brand new plugs.
-The fuel selector is the one that Van included in the kit so I don't
remember the brand.
- It has been cold here and high humidity (after all , this IS Seattle!)
but it would hic-up even in the summer when the temperatures were in the
mid
70's.
The idea of the hic up being burning off carbon sounds good but I would
sure
like a more definative answer....
Thanks again,
Kim Nicholas
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not processed: |
me...
--> RV-List message posted by: "Randy Lervold" <randy@romeolima.com>
And I will add to Larry's comments... I "scuff" my parts wet with Coleman
fuel, I keep an old half milk jug around to dip the Scotchbrite pad in, then
wipe them down with a clean towel dampened with more clean Coleman fuel, and
then prime. This technique has always produce a very durable primer coat and
is a bit more efficient labor-wise.
Randy Lervold
www.rv-3.com
www.rv-8.com
----- Original Message -----
From: "Helming, L R & K L" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not
processed: me...
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Helming, L R & K L" <lhelming@sigecom.net>
>
> I will add some to the Mark's response. Before scuffing with scotchbrite,
> clean with naptha (aka coleman lantern fuel) using clean cloth and wash
the
> surface well with a good soap such as Dawn dishwashing soap. This gets
rid
> of any oil, finger prints, etc. I like to use the soap also while
> scotchbriting it. Then wear rubber gloves and rinse well and do not allow
> your skin to touch the surface before priming. Larry in Indiana
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Fiveonepw@aol.com>
> To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: RV-List: Scotchbrite before priming really necessary?? (not
> processed: me...
>
>
> > --> RV-List message posted by: Fiveonepw@aol.com
> >
> > In a message dated 02/27/2005 7:16:48 PM Central Standard Time,
> > matt@n559rv.com writes:
> > Also, if you do prime it,
> > is it necessary to sand the whole part down to score it if you are using
> > self-etching primer? I am spending a lot of time scoring parts prior to
> > priming and it is a pain.
> >>>>
> >
> > I don't believe you really need to "score" it, just scuff it with
> > Scotchbrite
> > (I like the red #7447) enough to take the shine off the surface, which
> > gives
> > the primer some really raw material to bite into, then wipe it all down
> > really
> > well (I used naphtha) before applying the primer- you'll be amazed how
> > much
> > stuff is left on the part after scuffing. Another tip- ALWAYS wipe the
> > parts
> > down with solvent (did I mention naphtha?) BEFORE scuffing because your
> > fingers
> > will always leave oil on the part, and even the Scotchbrite will not
scuff
> > the part where the oil is. I noticed on some of my early parts that
after
> > scuffing that there were places here and there on the part that did not
> > scuff well
> > (still relatively shiny), and they were all the size of fingerprints!
Use
> > nitrile gloves when wiping, and cotton cloves while handling the clean
> > parts
> > before/during priming.
> >
> > From The PossumWorks in TN
> > Mark Phillips -6A N51PW, 150 hrs.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
In a message dated 2/28/2005 9:46:37 A.M. Pacific Standard Time,
cheathco@comcast.net writes:
One last question, is the hickup just one very brief miss, say 1/2 to 1
second (a long time when you hear and feel it :-)), and only on occasion?
Yes. It is very brief - 1/2 second and only on occasion. And yes, it
seems to be forever. Somehow I don't find it very reassuring that your AP says
not to worry. He is not in the plane when it happens!!! :)
Thanks again,
Kim Nicholas
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Electronic ign & mag combo |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Rowbotham" <crowbotham@hotmail.com>
Charles,
We kept our impluse mag and replaced the non-impluse mag with one of Jeff
Rose's EI. It has worked great for the last 250 hrs - very pleased with the
results.
Chuck & Dave Rowbotham
RV-8A
>From: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>Reply-To: rv-list@matronics.com
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: Electronic ign & mag combo
>Date: Mon, 28 Feb 2005 10:18:15 -0500
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
>In the prev posts re EGT's I noticed the engine had a mag and a Lightspeed.
>I have been considering making the change, but recall Ed whatshisname in
>Greensboro telling me he had taken his electrnic off and going back to dual
>mags because of problems. I would like to heare current thoughts on this,
>charlie heathco LZU
>
>
Message 23
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--> RV-List message posted by: "glennpaulwilkinson" <gpww@alltel.net>
Hey Guys,
I have an RV-4 and am planning a panel upgrade and am planning to buy a Dynon D-10A
EFIS but I have had a couple of owners tell me of problems with the Dynon
units. What has been your experience with the Dynon units you own? Good service
or problems and what type?
Thanks for the help,
Glenn
654RV @ OKZ
Message 24
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|
| Subject: | Fiberglass cockpit |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
I have taken on the task of building a cockpit enclosure for a flight
simulator. See http://www.flyelite.com/hardware.php?product_id=77
This isn't specifically RV related, but I do have an RV7 fuse next to this
project.
I need some advice because I have never actually done any fiberglass work,
but these enclosures sell for $25,000, and I thought I could do a lot of
learning for that much.
I have already built the male mold for it. I just need some advice on how
many layers and what kind of fiberglass to use. Will I be able to create a
smooth finish on the outside? Where's a good place to buy the supplies?
Should I use epoxy or regular resin?
Thanks
Cammie
Message 25
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)" <mstewart@iss.net>
Glenn the list has a ton of stuff in it for your searching pleasure with
lots of history to answer this exactl question.
As of the latest revision of software it is working much more reliably
and I now fly the unit IFR w/o hesitation, but not w/o backup.
Mike
Do not archive.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
glennpaulwilkinson
Subject: RV-List: Dynon EFIS
--> RV-List message posted by: "glennpaulwilkinson" <gpww@alltel.net>
Hey Guys,
I have an RV-4 and am planning a panel upgrade and am planning to buy a
Dynon D-10A EFIS but I have had a couple of owners tell me of problems
with the Dynon units. What has been your experience with the Dynon units
you own? Good service or problems and what type?
Thanks for the help,
Glenn
654RV @ OKZ
Message 26
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|
| Subject: | Re: Fiberglass cockpit |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Cammie Patch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Cammie Patch" <cammie@sunvalley.net>
>
>I have taken on the task of building a cockpit enclosure for a flight
>simulator. See http://www.flyelite.com/hardware.php?product_id=77
>This isn't specifically RV related, but I do have an RV7 fuse next to this
>project.
>I need some advice because I have never actually done any fiberglass work,
>but these enclosures sell for $25,000, and I thought I could do a lot of
>learning for that much.
>I have already built the male mold for it.
>
It would be better to make a female mold. I know, "now ya tell me!"
Make a part from the male mold and then get it smooth as a baby's butt
..... just like you want the end product to look like .... Apply a
parting compound and lay up the female mold with appropriate stiffeners
to make the mold keep it's shape. Then you can lay up stuff .....
complete with cutting lines if you desire ..... and not have to do much
finish work to the outside. You may need to make the shell in two
halves. Mold in an air fitting to pop the part loose ..... or a couple
......
> I just need some advice on how many layers
>
This will depend on how much structure there is to keep it rigid. Can't
even estimate from here
> and what kind of fiberglass to use.
>
You may end up using a couple of weaves. BID will lay in compound areas
really nice but is more expensive than plain 'glas.
> Will I be able to create a smooth finish on the outside?
>
Not without a lot of sanding and work unless you do the work up front (one time
Vs. many times) on a female mold.
>Where's a good place to buy the supplies?
>
Search the net. Don't know as I haven't bought large quantities in a while.
>Should I use epoxy or regular resin?
>
Hmmm, for your application ..... dunno. Epoxy will be stiffer, but more
expensive, than polyester resin. Polyester resin can be made to cure
'hot' (quicker .... and yes, hotter) than epoxy which will take a day or
two depending on ambient temps.
Good luck with your 'enterprise'.
Linn
do not archive
>Thanks
>Cammie
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 27
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
I concur with Mike S. The last version of the software seems to be very
stable and I am having no issues with the Dynon. They had some struggles
early and the thing that came thru loud and clear on this list was the great
service they provided.
I fly mine IFR as well, but you better have some backup no matter what kind
of horizon you have if you fly IFR and you better be pretty sharp if you fly
IFR in an RV.
----- Original Message -----
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Stewart, Michael (ISS Atlanta)"
> <mstewart@iss.net>
>
> Glenn the list has a ton of stuff in it for your searching pleasure with
> lots of history to answer this exactl question.
> As of the latest revision of software it is working much more reliably
> and I now fly the unit IFR w/o hesitation, but not w/o backup.
>
> Mike
Do not archive.
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: SportAV8R@aol.com
I cured my O-320-E2D hiccups by putting the proper carburetor on (new); I probably
created the problem by installing the higher compression pistons without changing
the jetting for 160hp. Hiccups were just like yours; a brief to occasionally
not so brief stumble in cruise - cured instantly and forever with the
carb swap-out. Old carb's float settings were okay and all looked fine on tear-down.
Go figure.
-Bill B
Message 29
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "John Furey" <john@fureychrysler.com>
I recently installed a D10A and like it very well. I have noticed that the
Altimeter setting may vary from 20~70' from actual even after warm up. Not
sure if this is normal. And the TAS just went wild on the last two flights
which might be a bad temp probe. They have been good to work with. Enroute I
always look at the Dynon for airspeed and Alt however I always refer to the
old airspeed ind and altimeter on landing for some reason. I have actually
covered up the old gauges with sticky notes in an effort to re-train me. I
recommend it.
John Furey
RV6A
Message 30
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| Subject: | Hanger or Garage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Cary <cary@Fusion.gat.com>
I have been building in my garage (just starting wings) and been
presented with an opportunity to share a hanger. I know that finding
a hanger anyplace but especially in the SoCal area can be very
difficult so I hate to pass this by.
Here are my questions: Based on your experiences and or first hand
knowledge, where does one get the most work done, home or at the
field. Second question: Do the benefits from building at the field
out weigh the hassles? Any other comments will be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Bill RV-9A wings
Ramona, CA
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Hanger or Garage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
You won't get much work done in either place. At home you'll be interrupted by
family. At the airport you'll be interrupted by airport bums. I'd go for the
hangar. At least airport bums like to talk about airplanes. ;-)
Plus the airplane noise is a great incentive.
Bill Cary <cary@Fusion.gat.com> wrote:
--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Cary
I have been building in my garage (just starting wings) and been
presented with an opportunity to share a hanger. I know that finding
a hanger anyplace but especially in the SoCal area can be very
difficult so I hate to pass this by.
Here are my questions: Based on your experiences and or first hand
knowledge, where does one get the most work done, home or at the
field. Second question: Do the benefits from building at the field
out weigh the hassles? Any other comments will be greatly
appreciated.
Thanks in advance everyone.
Bill RV-9A wings
Ramona, CA
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 32
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| Subject: | Re: Hanger or Garage |
--> RV-List message posted by: CBRxxDRV@aol.com
In a message dated 2/28/05 6:12:54 PM Eastern Standard Time,
cary@Fusion.gat.com writes:
> Here are my questions: Based on your experiences and or first hand
> knowledge, where does one get the most work done, home or at the
> field. Second question: Do the benefits from building at the field
> out weigh the hassles? Any other comments will be greatly
> appreciated.
>
Home ..... When I find time I can get into the garage. One hour
here and there adds up. I have more "stuff" at house. I have a fridge...
a nice bathroom and I can stop when I am tired and not drive home.
I can walk into the garage in the morning with my coffee and check
my work and plan my next move.
I store finished items in the hanger for final assembly...out of the way.
I work at the airport often.....on previous planes and keeping my -4
going and wish I was working home (see comments above) I see
no benefits to working at the airport. Final assembly will be done
in the hanger.
YMMV
do not archive
RV-4
RV-8 QB....Fuselage (canoe)
Sal Capra
Lakeland, FL.
My Home Page
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Hanger or Garage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Bilinski <bilinski@kyocera-wireless.com>
NO, no, no, waaaay to many distractions at the airport. Are you trying to
tell me every time Chuck Hall or one of the other war bird drivers comes
screaming by your not going to stop and watch? I built my slow build at
home in 2 years to the month with paint. I could have never done that at
the airport.
At 03:23 PM 2/28/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
>
>You won't get much work done in either place. At home you'll be
>interrupted by family. At the airport you'll be interrupted by airport
>bums. I'd go for the hangar. At least airport bums like to talk about
>airplanes. ;-)
>
>Plus the airplane noise is a great incentive.
>
>Bill Cary <cary@Fusion.gat.com> wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Bill Cary
>
>I have been building in my garage (just starting wings) and been
>presented with an opportunity to share a hanger. I know that finding
>a hanger anyplace but especially in the SoCal area can be very
>difficult so I hate to pass this by.
>
>Here are my questions: Based on your experiences and or first hand
>knowledge, where does one get the most work done, home or at the
>field. Second question: Do the benefits from building at the field
>out weigh the hassles? Any other comments will be greatly
>appreciated.
>
>Thanks in advance everyone.
>
>Bill RV-9A wings
>Ramona, CA
>
>
>--
>Scott VanArtsdalen
>RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
>
> When a man does all he can
> though it succeeds not well,
> blame not him that did it."
> -- George Washington
>
>
Scott Bilinski
Eng dept 305
Phone (858) 657-2536
Pager (858) 502-5190
Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Hanger or Garage |
--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
I can tell you WITHOUT hesitation that building at home was the ONLY way I
could have done it. By building my RV9A at home, I did not have to leave the
family to go to the airport. I could work on it after work, after dinner.
My wife and kids could still talk to me, I could have dinner, say
good-night to the kids etc. When I finally moved the finished parts to the hangar,
it took FOREVER to get things done. All the guys in the hangar area would
stop to chat and check progreess. It got to a point that I would hide my car
around the corner, keep the door closed and keep the radio quiet just so I
could be left alone to get something done.
Don't get me wrong - I enjoy a good visit and I love to talk airplanes, but
my time off is rare and building time away from home is sacrad. All the
guys at the airport are great - but I am glad that I did most of the
construction at home.
... just one guys experiences....
Kim Nicholas
RV9A - Auburn, WA
27 hours.
Message 35
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|
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jeff Dowling" <shempdowling2@earthlink.net>
If time is any consideration, call first. Mine took over 4 months to
receive.
Shemp/Jeff Dowling
RV-6A, N915JD
165 hours
Chicago/Louisville
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "glennpaulwilkinson" <gpww@alltel.net>
Subject: RV-List: Dynon EFIS
> --> RV-List message posted by: "glennpaulwilkinson" <gpww@alltel.net>
>
> Hey Guys,
> I have an RV-4 and am planning a panel upgrade and am planning to buy a
> Dynon D-10A EFIS but I have had a couple of owners tell me of problems
> with the Dynon units. What has been your experience with the Dynon units
> you own? Good service or problems and what type?
>
> Thanks for the help,
> Glenn
> 654RV @ OKZ
>
>
>
Message 36
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|
| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Kim,
One thing to consider is the possibility of a valve sticking. You might try
adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to your fuel, about 4 oz. per 10 Gal.
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: <Knicholas2@aol.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
> --> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
>
> In a message dated 2/27/2005 9:01:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
> dcarter@datarecall.net writes:
>
> Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above
50%
> humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and
breaking
> off?
>
>
> Thanks to all who offered input. I guess I should give some additional
> information.
> -Yes, I am using AV gas 100LL. I try to lean it out - especially on
the
> ground.
> -When I checked the plugs they were all moderately lead fouled. It
> hic-up'd even with brand new plugs.
> -The fuel selector is the one that Van included in the kit so I don't
> remember the brand.
> - It has been cold here and high humidity (after all , this IS
Seattle!)
> but it would hic-up even in the summer when the temperatures were in the
mid
> 70's.
>
> The idea of the hic up being burning off carbon sounds good but I would
sure
> like a more definative answer....
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Kim Nicholas
>
>
Message 37
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--> RV-List message posted by: "William Davis" <rvpilot@access4less.net>
Thanks to all who replied to my question about compass fluid. I'm going to try
Baby oil. No Jet-A at this airport and freezing is not really a problem here in
central Florida.
Bill
Do not archive
Message 38
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--> RV-List message posted by: "Doug Rozendaal" <dougr@petroblend.com>
The Global Flyer is in the air!
http://www.virginatlanticglobalflyer.com/MissionControl/Tracking/
Do not archive
Message 39
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| Subject: | Re: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Charlie England <ceengland@bellsouth.net>
I agree. (never flown one without one). :-)
Charlie E.
Charles Heathco wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
>
>One last question, is the hickup just one very brief miss, say 1/2 to 1
>second (a long time when you hear and feel it :-)), and only on occasion? If
>so, My A&P buddy says not to worry. (I know I know :-) ) Charlie
>----- Original Message -----
>From: <Knicholas2@aol.com>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: RV-List: Would this cause an occasional engine hic-up?
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: Knicholas2@aol.com
>
>
>In a message dated 2/27/2005 9:01:03 P.M. Pacific Standard Time,
>dcarter@datarecall.net writes:
>
>Are you operating in range of temperature (65 deg F or lower) and above
>50%
>humidity so that you might be getting some carb ice building up and
>breaking
>off?
>
>
>Thanks to all who offered input. I guess I should give some additional
>information.
> -Yes, I am using AV gas 100LL. I try to lean it out - especially on the
>ground.
> -When I checked the plugs they were all moderately lead fouled. It
>hic-up'd even with brand new plugs.
> -The fuel selector is the one that Van included in the kit so I don't
>remember the brand.
> - It has been cold here and high humidity (after all , this IS Seattle!)
>but it would hic-up even in the summer when the temperatures were in the
>mid
>70's.
>
>The idea of the hic up being burning off carbon sounds good but I would
>sure
>like a more definative answer....
>
>Thanks again,
>
>Kim Nicholas
>
Message 40
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| Subject: | Paging Stein Bruch |
--> RV-List message posted by: "DEAN PSIROPOULOS" <dean.psiropoulos@verizon.net>
I tried your sales email address on your website but got no reply Stein:
So...I'll try the public forum, I just saw you here the other night and I
know you're lurking. I got to thinking about your harnesses. I like
working with electrical stuff and would enjoy making my own harnesses
but....I've been working on this airplane for many years now and it is so
close to flying I can taste it. If I had someone make my radio harnesses
while I was working on these last little airframe details and installing the
motor, it would fly that much quicker. So......I have a full UPS AT radio
stack (SL-70 transponder, SL-30 Nav/Com, GX-65 GPS/COM and the SL-15 audio
panel). I also have the Dynon D-10 (no serial I/F) and the Mid Continent
Instruments 3 1/2 inch VOR/ILS indicator. I want to use the Dynon to
provide altitude to the SL-70 and want the GX-65 to be able to talk to the
SL-30 (RS-232 serial bus I think). I think that the SL-15 has intercom
built in and it's stereo so I'd want stereo headset capability in that
harness, plus, I'd like to be able to plug in a portable cassette, CD or MP3
player into the audio system AND, be able to record ATC transmissions out of
the audio system (a couple extra jacks for input and output that I could
install in the glove box or under the panel). And, last but not least...a
harness to come out of an Ez Pilot wing leveler control head long enough to
reach my Navaid Servo installed in the right wingtip (EZ Pilot connector on
one end and NAVAID servo connector on the other). Can you give me a rough
idea how much harnesses to do all this stuff would cost if I bought them
from you? What would you need from me to make up the harnesses? Mounting
trays, pins, schematics, what?????? Thanks.
Dean Psiropoulos
RV-6A N197DM
Tarpon Sprgs, FL
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