Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:03 AM - Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] (Matt Dralle)
2. 01:39 AM - Re: New Van's RV-12? ()
3. 02:06 AM - FP vs. CS - Safety Issues (owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com)
4. 03:43 AM - Re: #4 ELT panel mounting screws (Trainnut01@aol.com)
5. 04:36 AM - Re: Garmin 196 problem (Larry Bowen)
6. 04:38 AM - When to put it on the gear (Mickey Coggins)
7. 05:46 AM - Re: Garmin 196 problem (Charles Heathco)
8. 05:57 AM - Re: Garmin 196 problem (John Huft)
9. 06:43 AM - Re: Garmin 196 problem (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
10. 06:53 AM - Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? (Hopperdhh@aol.com)
11. 07:03 AM - Re: New Van's RV-12? (Dave Figgins)
12. 07:47 AM - Compass Calibration (Ron Brown)
13. 08:00 AM - Re: When to put it on the gear (Paul Besing)
14. 08:33 AM - Re: cruise performance test data listed (LeastDrag93066@aol.com)
15. 08:47 AM - Re: Compass Calibration (Paul Besing)
16. 08:50 AM - Re: Compass Calibration (Stein Bruch)
17. 08:58 AM - Re: When to put it on the gear (Jim Cimino)
18. 10:14 AM - Re: Compass Calibration (BPA)
19. 10:15 AM - Re: Cruise performance data (Chris W)
20. 10:24 AM - Re: New Van's RV-12? (Skylor Piper)
21. 10:25 AM - Re: When to put it on the gear (John Huft)
22. 01:09 PM - Re: New Van's RV-12? (Scott Vanartsdalen)
23. 05:16 PM - Re: Compass Calibration (Bill Schlatterer)
24. 05:35 PM - Re: Compass Calibration (linn walters)
25. 06:14 PM - A curious mix of metal and plastic (Jerry Hansen)
26. 06:30 PM - Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? (Kevin Horton)
27. 06:37 PM - Re: FP vs. CS - Safety Issues (Dave Bristol)
28. 06:51 PM - Re: Compass Calibration (Dave Bristol)
29. 07:55 PM - Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles For Sale (Glenn Brasch)
30. 08:11 PM - Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? (cgalley)
31. 08:31 PM - Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? (JOHN STARN)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Official Usage Guideline [Please Read] [Monthly Posting] |
DNA: do not archive
--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
Dear Lister,
Please read over the RV-List Usage Guidelines below. The complete
RV-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
following URL:
http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/RV-List.FAQ.html
Thank you,
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
******************************************************************************
RVSouthEast-List Usage Guidelines
******************************************************************************
The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the RVSouthEast-List.
You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
Failure to use the RVSouthEast-List in the manner described below may result
in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
RVSouthEast-List Policy Statement
The purpose of the RVSouthEast-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
things related to this particular discussion group. The List's goals
are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
among its members; and to support safe operation. Reaching these goals
requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of
the List. To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
- Please keep all posts related to the List at some level. Do not submit
posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
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that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate. Try to be concise and
terse in your posts. Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
responses.
- Keep your signature brief. Please include your name, email address,
aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location. A short line
about where you are in the building process is also nice. Avoid
bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
space in the archive.
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easily obtainable from other widely available sources. Consult the
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can not be overstated!
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- DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
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other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
controversial issue. This will only cause a pointless debate that
will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
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[This is an automated posting.]
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: New Van's RV-12? |
--> RV-List message posted by: <sears@searnet.com>
> Lot of us that build RV's probably also flew RC's in our lifetime and
> appreciate the skills of those that are really good flying RC.
Golly, gee! I thought everyone flew RC! I still do. In fact, I consider my
RVs my giant scale models. I decided building giant scales at the levels I
see at model fly-ins is way out of my league; so, I put my bucks for big
models into full size building. As I was flying Scooter around our RC
field, the other day, one modeler thought another model had taken off and
was flying close to him. It sort of shook him up. Then, he realized it was
me. At the distance I was circling the field to stay out of their way, mine
looked just right for a model in his airspace. Needless to say, I got a
kick out of that one when he told me later in the day. :-)
Jim Sears in KY
do not archive
Message 3
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<rv-list@matronics.com>
| Subject: | FP vs. CS - Safety Issues |
--> RV-List message posted by:
I have kept off the CS vs. FP debate on purpose because I do not know enough
about it to provide
knowledgeable input. I must say I did learn a great deal from the different
posts. Thank you all.
My understanding is that the issue boils down to mission profile:
- aerobatics, short fields, high rate of climb, rapid decent, engine
usage optimization, flying pleasure (I see it as the difference between a
stick shift and an automatic)=85 militate in favor of CS.
- Weight, CG, investment cost, simplicity, fewer prop restrictions
(not sure on this one) militate in favor of FP
Safety! This is one issue which has been batted around; it concerns CS and
power failure mainly for hydraulic governors. I am not sure I am quite at
ease as to what would happen under different scenarios:
- cruise speed, zero power =96 engine continues to windmill thereby
maintaining the oil pressure up =96 pilot has control of the pitch =96 he can
optimize his rate of decent.
- short final and zero power =96 does the prop go to low pitch hence
acts as a brake thereby forcing he pilot to push on the stick?
- Is there a minimum speed to maintain to ensure windmilling hence
maintain enough oil pressure to control the governor?
- Oil pressure failure at any speed.- what happens then?
- Engine stops (zero RPM =96 valve, con rod=85 failure) =96 what happens?
Although my mission profile dictates a CS prop, if I cannot get a
satisfactory answer to rest my mind as to what happens given these
scenarios, I might feel forced into choosing a FP.
FP vs. CS has been one of our wars however the safety issue remains and
objective appraisal as to the consequences of different scenarios and how to
handle them. Please listers, could you possibly respond only if you have
firm definitive information or experience on the CS engine failure issue?
Mich=E8le =96 RV8
Planning on IO-360 - Superior, Mattituck or Lycoming (no implied preference
at this time).
_____
From: ronlee@pcisys.net [mailto:ronlee@pcisys.net]
Subject: Re: [lycoming] Re: fixed pitch to CS conversion
Vern, your decision is one that I may make at some point. Certainly if
I had to replace my wood prop the 3 blade would be an option. Supposedly
it offers improved climb performance over a FP but probably less than
a CS. Getting CS capable engine is wise. You have the option of going
CS later or a future owner would as well. Guess I should look into
the 3 blade and se if there are any documented data showing an improvement
from two blade FP.
Ron Lee
> Back on topic: I'm going with a FP Catto 3-blade in front of my 180hp
> Mattituck IO-360, and the reason I'm doing that is because I
> personally don't feel that the difference (at this point in time) of
> about $5k between it and the CS Hartzell is worth it to me.
> I'll cruise just as fast with the FP, and even though climb will not
> be as good, it will still be better than any single engine GA
> aircraft. To me, that's just good value for my mission, and my
> mission may be entirely different from yours.
> At the same time, I am happily going to pay the additional $600
> difference to get the hollow crank so that if I ever want to go CS, I
> at least won't have to change out the engine.
>
> Vern
>
>
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: #4 ELT panel mounting screws |
--> RV-List message posted by: Trainnut01@aol.com
Wayne
I got mine in the Fastener Center aisle at my local Ace Hardware.
Carroll Jernigan
RV7A Panel
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Larry Bowen <Larry@BowenAero.com>
I may be seeing this also. The batteries that are only meant to be
used as back
up went dead after only 3 months. I attributed it to the cold weather and the
30 second count-down after main power is removed, but maybe it's something
else.....
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Quoting Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
>
> Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
>
> we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep
> going dead after a short period of time, even though we are not using
> them on battery power. I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist
> who has the same problem.
>
> Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
>
> Jeff Bertsch
> lonestarsquadron.com
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | When to put it on the gear |
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
When is the best time to put the aircraft on the gear,
before or after installing the engine? I can see advantages
to both, like the aircraft is lower when gear is off, but putting
it on the gear after the engine is installed will be more work.
Thanks for any hints or words of wisdom.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Charles Heathco" <cheathco@comcast.net>
I had a 196 up untill got 296, never ran the battys down using cig lighter
pwere, I also used it in sim mode with adapter. ITs a strange one, i thought
maybe you were lossing conn, but I recall that the pwr cord sometimes fell
out and it would turn off so seems that would eliminate that posibility.
Problem I had with both is that within 7 miles of LZU radar it would loose
signal, traced that toEscort II radio interference ( only happened with LZU
radar) Charlie heathco
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Bertsch" <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
Subject: RV-List: Garmin 196 problem
--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep going
dead after a short period of time, even though we are not using them on
battery power. I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist who has the same
problem.
Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
Jeff Bertsch
lonestarsquadron.com
---------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
Thats funny, I have run mine many hours on ship power without battery
problems. Are you sure it is getting power? One of the data fields can
be set to read voltage...does it go up to 14 or so when you are running
the engine?
John
Jeff Bertsch wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
>
>Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
>
>we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep going dead
after a short period of time, even though we are not using them on battery power.
I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist who has the same problem.
>
>Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
>
>Jeff Bertsch
>lonestarsquadron.com
>
>
>---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 196 problem |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
Jeff,
One way to get to the cause of this problem is to measure the battery
current. Take a piece of insulator (tape, cardboard, double sided circuit board,
etc.) and insulate one battery from the connector -- say at the positive end
of the series string, and bring out 2 wires. Or, bring out 2 wires and
connect the batteries externally through the meter. Put a multimeter in series
and
monitor the current drain. Is there a steady drain? 50 to 100 microamps
would run the batteries down in a few months. (Be careful not to turn the unit
on while on a sensitive range, of course.) If not, is there significant
drain during normal operation?
Hope this helps,
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 3/2/05 7:38:12 A.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
Larry@bowenaero.com writes:
I may be seeing this also. The batteries that are only meant to be
used as back
up went dead after only 3 months. I attributed it to the cold weather and
the
30 second count-down after main power is removed, but maybe it's something
else.....
--
Larry Bowen
Larry@BowenAero.com
http://BowenAero.com
Quoting Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>:
> --> RV-List message posted by: Jeff Bertsch <noms1reqd@yahoo.com>
>
> Both Bryan Jones and I have a the same problem with our Garmin 196:
>
> we have the GPS connected to onboard power, but the batteries keep
> going dead after a short period of time, even though we are not using
> them on battery power. I have also found a pilot on the Beechlist
> who has the same problem.
>
> Is there anyone else on the RV-list experiencing this?
>
> Jeff Bertsch
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Hopperdhh@aol.com
If you think that staying back 2 threads with the tape will keep it from
getting into the system, you're wrong. After learning the perils of teflon tape
the hard way, I set up this experiment. I put a pipe T in a vise so that I
could see the male coming in from inside. When I tightened the male into the
T, I saw a sliver of the teflon come shooting past the end of the male from
inside the pipe! The tape was back 2 whole turns, and it still made its way
past the end of the threads as they were tightened. Made a believer out of
me!
Dan Hopper
Walton, IN
RV-7A (Flying)
In a message dated 3/1/05 8:44:28 P.M. US Eastern Standard Time,
cgalley@qcbc.org writes:
The threads going into your new clean carb are free of tape. You can use
the old screw in fittings as one can see to completely clean the male
threads. It is the female threads that hide the problem old tape particles
so you should be in good shape.
Just don't use the Tape again.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
Message 11
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| Subject: | New Van's RV-12? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Dave Figgins" <2004nospam@earthlink.net>
WoW, as an old RC person that individual can really fly!! Shows what a good
power to weight ratio can do.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jerry Hansen
Subject: RV-List: New Van's RV-12?
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen@cox.net>
Can this be the next RV?
<http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv>
http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv
advertising on the Matronics Forums.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has an error
that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150 when pointed
south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south - make it read
180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to help take
these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in removing these
errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
Message 13
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| Subject: | When to put it on the gear |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <paul@kitlog.com>
Put the gear on first, imho. The engine will be at the right level to work
on. Plus, you won't have to jack the plane up with the engine on when you
want to put the gear legs on.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Mickey Coggins
Subject: RV-List: When to put it on the gear
--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Hi,
When is the best time to put the aircraft on the gear,
before or after installing the engine? I can see advantages
to both, like the aircraft is lower when gear is off, but putting
it on the gear after the engine is installed will be more work.
Thanks for any hints or words of wisdom.
Mickey
--
Mickey Coggins
http://www.rv8.ch/
#82007 Wiring
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: cruise performance test data listed |
--> RV-List message posted by: LeastDrag93066@aol.com
Hi All,
Basic assumption on propeller design.
A propeller blade is designed for a single point of maximum propeller
efficiency.
A single point for design efficiency would be at particular altitude,
airspeed with a specific horsepower available.
Any deviation from that design point will cause a reduction in propeller
efficiency.
Additional comments.
The propeller provides thrust for the aircraft.
The engine turns the propeller.
The engine does not provide thrust for the aircraft.
Two different independent equations that would need to be solved
simultaneously for a given data point involving the engine and propeller interaction.
Or flight test data could be obtained to establish this empirically.
Regards,
Jim Ayers
Message 15
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| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Paul Besing" <paul@kitlog.com>
Do you have the US or the Chinese model? I had problems like this with the
Chinese model. Sent it back and got the US model and all problems were
fixed. Also be sure you use a brass screwdriver when adjusting.
Paul Besing
RV-6A Sold
RV-10 Soon
Kitlog Builder's Software
www.kitlog.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has an
error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150 when
pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south - make
it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to help
take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
removing these errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
Message 16
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| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Ron,
This is one of the caveats that people really need to consider when panel
mounting a compass. A large percentage of them suffer from un-resolveable
errors when the avionics are turned on. Simple EMF makes it difficult to
get a panel mounted compass to be calibtrated correctly. That being said,
they seem to work in some installations in some planes so I'm not totally
against it. But, the majority of what I see for panel mounted compasses in
a panel with any sort of avionics present usually results in a compass that
never works quite right until everything is turned off!
Just my 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has an
error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150 when
pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south - make
it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to help
take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
removing these errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: When to put it on the gear |
Received-SPF: none
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
If it -8 and not an 8A, and you don't have the wings on, it will be very
nose heavy with the engine on and you will need to keep weight on the tail.
It is also much easier to work on without the gear because it is lower. But
it will be harder to install the gear after the engine is on.
Jim
Jim Cimino
RV-8 SN 80039
150+ Hours
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
Subject: RV-List: When to put it on the gear
> --> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>
> Hi,
>
> When is the best time to put the aircraft on the gear,
> before or after installing the engine? I can see advantages
> to both, like the aircraft is lower when gear is off, but putting
> it on the gear after the engine is installed will be more work.
>
> Thanks for any hints or words of wisdom.
>
> Mickey
>
> --
> Mickey Coggins
> http://www.rv8.ch/
> #82007 Wiring
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
OK Guys, you have asked a legitimate question, to wit: " who do you
think you are "?
So I'll tell you. I am a guy who has built 2 airplanes, rebuilt a
classic airplane, maintained several airplanes, maintained a
Certificated Repair Station for over 20 years.
But most importantly, I have lost more than a dozen very good friends
from
Them making bad decisions with Experimental Category Airplanes.
I think that more than qualifies me to make the statement I made.
Monty Barrett
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Stein Bruch
Subject: RE: RV-List: Compass Calibration
--> RV-List message posted by: "Stein Bruch" <stein@steinair.com>
Hi Ron,
This is one of the caveats that people really need to consider when
panel
mounting a compass. A large percentage of them suffer from
un-resolveable
errors when the avionics are turned on. Simple EMF makes it difficult
to
get a panel mounted compass to be calibtrated correctly. That being
said,
they seem to work in some installations in some planes so I'm not
totally
against it. But, the majority of what I see for panel mounted compasses
in
a panel with any sort of avionics present usually results in a compass
that
never works quite right until everything is turned off!
Just my 2 cents as usual.
Cheers,
Stein.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has
an
error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150
when
pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south -
make
it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to
help
take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
removing these errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Cruise performance data |
--> RV-List message posted by: Chris W <1qazxsw23edcvfr45tgbnhy67ujm@cox.net>
gmcjetpilot@yahoo.com wrote:
>In general more blades are not more efficient and thicker blades are not more
efficient, both theoretically and in practice. MT blades need to be made thicker
than metal blades because of the wood core. That is OK but not as efficient
as thinner blades. However, wood core has lots of advantages, like not having
mid range engine RPM limits and reported smoother operation by some pilots.
>
>
I can't speak to the specifics about any particular 2 vs 3 blade prop,
but I read some NASA research that gave relative efficiencies for
various numbers of blades. I know that had 2, 3 and 4 blade props in
their data and maybe more. As you pointed out, more blades are less
efficient, however the difference in efficiency between a 2 and a 3
bladed prop is very small. I don't remember the exact numbers, but I do
remember calculating that at 200 mph, the difference would be no more
than 1 mph.
--
Chris W
Gift Giving Made Easy
Get the gifts you want &
give the gifts they want
http://thewishzone.com
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: New Van's RV-12? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Skylor Piper <skylor4@yahoo.com>
The thing that strikes me about this particular
"simulation" is that it appears that the plane's
parameters are set up so that it has almost no weight.
I've flown R/C for many years, and have seen planes
that can hover, etc. But I haven't seen planes that
can nearly hover while prectically horizontal (unless
it is windy).
--- Don Mack <don@dmack.net> wrote:
> --> RV-List message posted by: "Don Mack"
> <don@dmack.net>
>
> This is actually a video of Aerofly Pro RC
> simulator. It is the RC
> equivalent of MS Flight Sim. The big difference is
> that you attach a RC
> transmitter to your PC. You can have fun and
> practice without having to
> repair anything.
>
> Those types RC planes do exist in the real world.
> You won't see an RV-12
> like this. Some of the 3D RC planes are so
> proportionally overpowered and
> out of CG as compared to a full size, that you would
> not want to get in one.
> I did listen to Sean Tucker at OSH last year talking
> about developing a 3D
> plane for his act. It would be amazing to see, but
> scare the heck outta me.
>
> There are three RC simulators that I know of:
> Aerofly Pro - http://www.aerofly.com/
> Realflight - http://www.realflight.com/
> Reflex -
>
http://www.modelrec.com/products/rcFlightSimulators/index.asp
>
> If you want the 40 hour quickbuild RV, you can
> always buy one of these:
> http://www.rchomebuilts.com/rv6.htm
>
> Don Mack | don@dmack.net | www.dmack.net
>
> Do not archive
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://birthday.yahoo.com/netrospective/
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: When to put it on the gear |
--> RV-List message posted by: John Huft <rv8@lazy8.net>
It is true the tail will have to be held down until the wings are on.
You can use this to your advantage by tieing the tail down to something
heavy. Tie it so the tail is about 6 feet in the air, and then the
engine will be just the right height to work on. And, you can still roll
it around when it gets in the way.
John
Jim Cimino wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jim Cimino" <jcimino@echoes.net>
>
>If it -8 and not an 8A, and you don't have the wings on, it will be very
>nose heavy with the engine on and you will need to keep weight on the tail.
>It is also much easier to work on without the gear because it is lower. But
>it will be harder to install the gear after the engine is on.
>Jim
>
>Jim Cimino
>RV-8 SN 80039
>150+ Hours
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: "Mickey Coggins" <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>To: <rv-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: RV-List: When to put it on the gear
>
>
>
>
>>--> RV-List message posted by: Mickey Coggins <mick-matronics@rv8.ch>
>>
>>Hi,
>>
>>When is the best time to put the aircraft on the gear,
>>before or after installing the engine? I can see advantages
>>to both, like the aircraft is lower when gear is off, but putting
>>it on the gear after the engine is installed will be more work.
>>
>>Thanks for any hints or words of wisdom.
>>
>>Mickey
>>
>>--
>>Mickey Coggins
>>http://www.rv8.ch/
>>#82007 Wiring
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: New Van's RV-12? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Scott Vanartsdalen <svanarts@yahoo.com>
For me, the airshow smoke is what gave it away. It just perfectly disappears at
a set distance behind the plane. There should be a haze of smoke around but
no, it just... disappears. The plane also accelerates dramatically when it does
fast rolls. But other than that I agree it was a great simulation.
Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:--> RV-List message posted by: Matt Dralle
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Hansen"
>
>Can this be the next RV?
>
>http://www.midcountyrc.com/videocorner/AFPD.wmv
Listers,
Now that you've watched this awesome video, realize that this ISN'T a real
video of a real Radio Controlled model airplane!! Yes, that's what I
said. Any of you that have your roots in Radio Controlled airplanes no
doubt watched in amazement wondering just how someone could fly like
that. Well, guess what... This is actually a 3D Graphics simulator for the
PC. Yup, that's right!! I was blown away. I kept wondering how they
could fly a plane like that, especially when they bounced it off the tail
in the one scene where it was in hover flight. The other give away is when
the plane flew/hovered around the pilot/camera. Did you notice that there
wasn't any smoke. In hover, the plane would be running at very high power
setting and would generate a lot of smoke (2-stroke engine), but it wasn't
in that particular maneuver. You'll also notice in that same scene when
the plane is very close to the camera, that the plane has a different, kind
of "fake" look to it compared to the background; another giveaway. Also,
the plane flew around the camera, but you never saw the person with the
Control flying it. Maybe he was wearing a "head-cam", but I doubt it... :-)
All in all, though, this is an amazing simulation! Most people would be
completely fooled. Makes you wonder if the whole war-in-Iraq was really
just a 3D simulation... Hum, so where did all of that money go...?
Here is a link to the company that sells the 3D Model software:
https://sslsites.de/ikarus-modellbau.de/onlineshop/usa/onlineshop/index.html
COOL!
The Spoiler,
Matt Dralle
Matt G Dralle | Matronics | PO Box 347 | Livermore | CA | 94551
925-606-1001 V | 925-606-6281 F | dralle@matronics.com Email
http://www.matronics.com/ WWW | Featuring Products For Aircraft
--
Scott VanArtsdalen
RV-4 N311SV, FLYING!!
When a man does all he can
though it succeeds not well,
blame not him that did it."
-- George Washington
Message 23
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| Subject: | Compass Calibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
Ron, don't know if this is an answer but ACS has a foil wrap called
MU(metal) It says "use this to shield the Precision PAI700 from magnetic
interference in the instrument panel". Part # 11-00973. Might be voodoo,
but it's only $15. Be interesting to know if anyone has tried it.
Good luck
Bill S
7a Ark
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has an
error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
At North, It indicates 15 degrees
At South, it indicates 165 degrees
At east and west it is dead on.
If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150 when
pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south - make
it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to help
take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
removing these errors.
Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
THANKS
Ronnie
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Compass Calibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: linn walters <lwalters2@cfl.rr.com>
Bill Schlatterer wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Bill Schlatterer" <billschlatterer@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Ron, don't know if this is an answer but ACS has a foil wrap called
>MU(metal) It says "use this to shield the Precision PAI700 from magnetic
>interference in the instrument panel". Part # 11-00973. Might be voodoo,
>but it's only $15. Be interesting to know if anyone has tried it.
>
>Good luck
>Bill S
>7a Ark
>
Not voodoo .... mu-metal has been used for shielding stuff for a long
time. Works easily ..... kinda like lead sheet.
I haven't seen anyone else post on procedure ....... and I've lost the
original post ...... but when you swing a compass you take out 1/2 of
the error and then do a 180 and take out 1/2 of the error. If I
remember right, Ron? faced north, set the compass to N and then swung
180 and set to 180 .... won't work. Try taking out 1/2 the error.
Repeat many times and fill out the compass card. BTW, in my Traumahawk,
the compass card is on the side of the console just above your calf
..... and you couldn't read it if you tried. The regs say it has to be
in sight visible by the pilot ..... visible, not readable!!! Dontcha
just love the feds????
Linn
do not archive
Linn
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-rv-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ron Brown
>To: rv-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RV-List: Compass Calibration
>
>
>--> RV-List message posted by: "Ron Brown" <romott@adelphia.net>
>
>I have a vertical card compass mounted in my instrument panel that has an
>error that I have not been able to calibrate out:
>
>At North, It indicates 15 degrees
>At South, it indicates 165 degrees
>At east and west it is dead on.
>
>If I adjust the error out at north - make it read 0, then it reads 150 when
>pointed south or vise versa - if I calibrate the error out at south - make
>it read 180, then it reads 30 degrees when pointed north.
>
>I understand that a small magnet(s) can be mounted near the compass to help
>take these errors out. I have tried this I am not having much luck in
>removing these errors.
>
>Any one have any experience in correcting these errors?
>
>THANKS
>Ronnie
>
>
>
>
--
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
Message 25
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| Subject: | A curious mix of metal and plastic |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Jerry Hansen" <jerry-hansen@cox.net>
A curious mix of metal and plastic......
http://www.vultureformation.com/video/deltademo.wmv
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> If Teflon tape would disolve in gas, oil or 5606, everything would be
> o.k.
> It doesn't and there in lies the problem. I wrote a rather lengthy
> article
> in the February 2005 of Sport Pilot. And here is the text...
>
> To Tape or Not to Tape; That is the question!
>
>
<-- a bunch of good stuff removed by Kevin Horton -->
> BUT if the fitting using the tape is ever removed and re-installed,
> the tape
> shards from the first use are in the fitting threads. It is easy to
> clean
> the male fitting as you can see when you have it all removed. It is
> almost
> impossible to remove the tape remains from the female internal
> threads. Any
> pieces that are missed get forced into your system when the fitting
> re-assembled. They will be circulated through the system whether it is
> fuel,
> oil, air or vacuum until these pieces get to a small opening, like a
> carb
> jet. It will plug it up. The engine will stop, or not get proper
> lubrication.
>
<-- a bunch more good stuff removed -->
I have one question for the experts - what happens if we use some other
product, like Teflon PST, and we later remove and re-install a fitting?
Isn't there a risk of pieces of the solidified sealant residue in the
female fitting getting pushed into the system when the male one is
screwed back in? How is a piece of Teflon PST in my fuel system any
safer than a piece of Teflon tape?
What am I missing?
I'm not suggesting that Teflon tape is OK, I'm just trying to learn why
some other products are not just as risky.
Kevin Horton
Ottawa, Canada
RV-8 - Finishing Kit
http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
Message 27
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|
| Subject: | Re: FP vs. CS - Safety Issues |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
>
>Safety! This is one issue which has been batted around; it concerns CS and
>power failure mainly for hydraulic governors. I am not sure I am quite at
>ease as to what would happen under different scenarios:
>
>- cruise speed, zero power =96 engine continues to windmill thereby
>maintaining the oil pressure up =96 pilot has control of the pitch =96 he can
>optimize his rate of decent.
>
>- short final and zero power =96 does the prop go to low pitch hence
>acts as a brake thereby forcing he pilot to push on the stick?
>
>
>
If the prop is windmilling, you'll still have oil pressure and control
of the prop and pulling it back will increase glide distance.
>- Is there a minimum speed to maintain to ensure windmilling hence
>maintain enough oil pressure to control the governor?
>
>
>
A Hartzel is heavy enough that you'd probably have be very close to
stall to stop it, so this shouldn't be a factor.
>- Oil pressure failure at any speed.- what happens then?
>
>
>
The engine stops turning.
>- Engine stops (zero RPM =96 valve, con rod=85 failure) =96 what happens?
>
>
>
>
Same as above. Also, a stopped prop has a lot less drag than a
windmilling prop and I don't think that you'd see any difference between
fixed pitch and CS.
The constant speed prop gives you more options with or without the
engine running and, in my opinion, makes it the safer of the two.
Dave So Cal -6 180 CS
EAA Tech Counselor
>Although my mission profile dictates a CS prop, if I cannot get a
>satisfactory answer to rest my mind as to what happens given these
>scenarios, I might feel forced into choosing a FP.
>
>
>
>
>
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Compass Calibration |
--> RV-List message posted by: Dave Bristol <dbris200@sbcglobal.net>
Did I miss something?
do not archive
BPA wrote:
>--> RV-List message posted by: "BPA" <BPA@BPAENGINES.COM>
>
>OK Guys, you have asked a legitimate question, to wit: " who do you
>think you are "?
>
>So I'll tell you. I am a guy who has built 2 airplanes, rebuilt a
>classic airplane, maintained several airplanes, maintained a
>Certificated Repair Station for over 20 years.
>
>But most importantly, I have lost more than a dozen very good friends
>from
>Them making bad decisions with Experimental Category Airplanes.
>
>I think that more than qualifies me to make the statement I made.
>Monty Barrett
>
>
>
>
Message 29
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|
| Subject: | Van's Aircraft Belt Buckles For Sale |
--> RV-List message posted by: "Glenn Brasch" <gbrasch@earthlink.net>
I have high quality "Van's Aircraft - Total Performance" belt buckles for sale.
Please check them out at:
http://home.earthlink.net/~gbrasch/
Thank you, Glenn Brasch, Tucson RV-9A fuselage
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
I believe the rest of the article recommended not using any sealant. That is
the jest of what I wrote.
Cy Galley - Chair,
AirVenture Emergency Aircraft Repair
A Service Project of Chapter 75
EAA Safety Programs Editor - TC
EAA Sport Pilot
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>>
>> If Teflon tape would disolve in gas, oil or 5606, everything would be
>> o.k.
>> It doesn't and there in lies the problem. I wrote a rather lengthy
>> article
>> in the February 2005 of Sport Pilot. And here is the text...
>>
>> To Tape or Not to Tape; That is the question!
>>
>>
> <-- a bunch of good stuff removed by Kevin Horton -->
>
>> BUT if the fitting using the tape is ever removed and re-installed,
>> the tape
>> shards from the first use are in the fitting threads. It is easy to
>> clean
>> the male fitting as you can see when you have it all removed. It is
>> almost
>> impossible to remove the tape remains from the female internal
>> threads. Any
>> pieces that are missed get forced into your system when the fitting
>> re-assembled. They will be circulated through the system whether it is
>> fuel,
>> oil, air or vacuum until these pieces get to a small opening, like a
>> carb
>> jet. It will plug it up. The engine will stop, or not get proper
>> lubrication.
>>
> <-- a bunch more good stuff removed -->
>
> I have one question for the experts - what happens if we use some other
> product, like Teflon PST, and we later remove and re-install a fitting?
> Isn't there a risk of pieces of the solidified sealant residue in the
> female fitting getting pushed into the system when the male one is
> screwed back in? How is a piece of Teflon PST in my fuel system any
> safer than a piece of Teflon tape?
>
> What am I missing?
>
> I'm not suggesting that Teflon tape is OK, I'm just trying to learn why
> some other products are not just as risky.
>
> Kevin Horton
> Ottawa, Canada
> RV-8 - Finishing Kit
> http://www.kilohotel.com/rv8
>
>
>
Message 31
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|
| Subject: | Re: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK?? |
--> RV-List message posted by: "JOHN STARN" <jhstarn@verizon.net>
Since you are only going to lightly apply the "fuel lube/dope" to the male
threads you'll find that the excess material tends to back up on the still
exposed threads of the male end. The second time around the residue left
behind will be very small as only the gaps in the female threads will retain
the "dope". The old "dope" is removed from the male end and I have used
small medical "bottle" brushes ( approx 1/4" in dia) and the shop vac to
extract remaining materials from the female orifice. This is not "perfect"
but it's the best way I've found. Applying the "dope" lightly on the male
threads ONLY is still the best ounce of protection.
Do Not Archive KABONG 8*)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kevin Horton" <khorton01@rogers.com>
Subject: Re: RV-List: Teflon tape on gas line thread, OK??
> --> RV-List message posted by: Kevin Horton <khorton01@rogers.com>
>
>
>> --> RV-List message posted by: "cgalley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>>
>> If Teflon tape would disolve in gas, oil or 5606, everything would be
>> o.k.
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